Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669

Goddess Temples at Srikshetra

Dr. Ratnakar Mohapatra

Introduction construction of temples in all parts of the kshetra. Srikshetra popularly known as Puri, is situated Before the British occupation of , this (Latitude 190 47m 55s North and Longitude 850 kshetra was the political headquarters of the 49m 5s East) on the shore of the Bay of Bengal in eastern part of Odisha. Prior to the advent of the state of Odisha.1 It is located about 59 kms Vaishnavism, the kshetra was a Sakta pitha and it to the south-east can be substantiated of Bhubaneswar. both by the literary The place of texts containing the Srikshetra is well- list of Sakta pithas in known for its Tantric texts and historic antiquities archaeological and religious evidences. Kali or sanctuaries in Mahakali, the first India. The term Mahavidya, is the ‘Sri’ before most popular deity kshetra denoting in India as well as either goddess Odisha. The present Lakshmi or simply form of Kali beauty.2 On the basis of Puranic tradition, Lakshmi worship is mainly based on the Kali and is the mistress of the kshetra and hence the place Tantrasara. Goddess Kali is being worshipped (Puri town) often called as Srikshetra. A survey by local people of Puri town in different names / of the extant temples of the Srikshetra reveals that forms like Bedhakali, Dakshinakali, Shyamakali, there was brisk architectural activities started from Smasana Kali, Gachhakali, etc. Of all the forms the Somavamsi period (10th century A.D.) and of Kali, Dakshina Kali is very popular and is also completed in the Maratha period of Odishan known as Adyakali.3 For the spread of worship history. Being an important cultural site as well as of goddess Kali, the native rulers of Puri had the political headquarters, the native rulers tried constructed some Kali temples at Srikshetra. to develop the religious tradition through the From the religious point of view, temples of

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 27 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review goddess Kali are also famous like other Sakta The sanctum preserves the image of shrines of Srikshetra. Those devotees who visit goddess Kali as the presiding deity of the temple. Lord Jagannatha temple of Srimandira, they also The two armed devi Kali is carved in seated do visit the Kali temples of Srikshetra. A modest posture on the pedestal. She displays khadga in attempt has been made in this article to highlight right hand and a pana patra in left hand the detailed art and architectures along with the respectively. The background slab of deity is religious importance of the extant Kali temples of decorated with the trefoil makara headed arch. Srikshetra (Puri). The image of goddess Kali is made of black chlorite. Inner walls of the sanctum are completely 1. Bedhakali Temple undecorated. The temple of Bedhakali is situated in the north- The sanctum has one doorway towards west corner inner enclosure of the Jagannatha the jagamohana. The jambs of the doorway are temple complex of Puri. This temple is built in decorated with creepers, lotus petalled designs sand stones. The temple consists of two structures and flower devices. The figures of Gaja-Lakshmi such as vimana and mukhasala. It faces to east. and navagrahas are completely absent in their Vimana respective places. A symbol of chakra is finely The vimana of the Bedhakali temple is a carved on the centre of the architrave above the navaratha rekha deula and its height is about 32 doorway lintel. feet from the surface of the temple complex. The Mukhasala structure of the vimana is erected on the platform The mukhasala of the temple is a pidha of 4 feet high. The base of the bada is square of deula and its height is about 25 feet from the 18 feet. The bada of the vimana has three fold surface of the temple complex. It is also erected divisions such as pabhaga, jangha and baranda. on the platform of 4 feet high. The base of the All the elements of the bada are devoid of bada is rectangular and it measures approximately decorative ornamentations. The central niches of 15 feet in length and 9 feet in width. The bada of the three sides of the bada are remained vacant. the mukhasala is panchanga type i.e. having The bada of the vimana is surmounted fivefold divisions such as pabhaga, tala jangha, by the curvilinear superstructure, which displays bandhana, upper jangha and baranda. All the nine pagas. All the pagas of gandi are thickly component parts of the bada are also devoid of plastered with lime mortar. So the decorative decorative ornamentations. The bada of the ornamentations of the gandi are not prominent. mukhasala is surmounted by the pyramidal Dopichha lions are fixed on the top of kanika superstructure. It consists of two potalas; the pagas of the gandi. Deula Charini figures are lower and upper potalas, which contain 3 and 2 inserted in the four cardinal directions of the beki pidhas respectively. The centre of the recess above rahas. between the two potalas in eastern side is filled with jhapa simha as the decorative element of the The mastaka of the vimana consists of gandi. Dopichha lions are fixed on the top of the beki, amalaka sila, khapuri, kalasa, ayudha kanika pagas of the gandi. Deula Charini figures (chakra) and dhvaja. are also inserted in the four cardinal directions of

28 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 the beki above rahas. They are acting as the Dakshinakali plays an important role in the ‘Niti’ supporting elements of the amalaka sila of the of Saptapuri Amavasya. Pilgrims and tourists mastaka. come to visit Lord Jagannatha temple and they also visit the Dakshinakali temple of Puri town. The mastaka of the mukhasala consists of beki, ghanta above which there is another beki, Art and Architecture of the temple amalaka sila, khapuri and kalasa. Here the ayudha The temple of Dakshina Kali is a small and dhvaja are completely missing. deula and it consists of four structures such as Inner walls of the mukhasala are devoid vimana, jagamohana, natamandapa and of decorative ornamentations. The doorway of bhogamandapa. The vimana and jagamohana the mukhasala is also completely plain. Jaya and were constructed in the same period but the Vijay figures are standing on both sides of the natamandapa and bhogamandapa are added at a doorway. They are acting as the dvarapalas of later period. All these structures are erected on the temple. Both the vimana and mukhasala are the platform of 10 feet high. This temple is built in thickly plastered with lime mortar. At the time of both sand stones and bricks. It is a renovated survey, the temple was being renovated by the temple and faces to east. Archaeological Survey of India; Puri Circle. Vimana Date of the temple The vimana of the temple is a pidha deula 4 There is no authentic record with regard and its height is about 30 feet from the road level. to the exact date of the temple of Bedhakali. On The base of the bada is square of 12 feet. The the basis of the architectural features, the bada of the vimana is panchnaga type i.e. having construction period of the Bedhakali temple can five fold divisions such as pabhaga, tala jangha, be tentatively assigned to the 16th century A.D. bandhana, upper jangha and baranda. All the elements of bada are completely undecorated. 2. Dakshinakali Temple The three side central niches of the bada The temple of goddess Dakshina Kali is are housed with parsvadevata images of Nrusimhi, situated ½ km distance from the Lion’s gate of Ganesha and Varahi. They are fashioned with as Jagannatha temple towards the left side of usual attributes in hands. These parsvadevata Svargadvara road in the Dakshinakalika Sahi of images are made of black chlorite. The bada of Puri town. The temple is exactly located on the the vimana is surmounted by the pyramidal right side of the Kalikadevi lane (Dakshinakalika superstructure. It consists of nine pidhas and each sahi) branching from Bali Sahi road in Puri. is decorated with tankus in all sides. Dakshina Kali temple has important religious The mastaka of the vimana consists of associations with Lord Jagannatha. The deity is beki, ghanta (bell shaped member) above which enshrined in a modern temple at a higher raised there is another beki, amalaka sila, khapuri, platform from the road level. The Puranic tradition kalasa, ayudha (chakra) and dhvaja. asserts that in the Srikshetra or Puri, Jagannatha is Dakshina Kali Himself and hence this goddess The sanctum preserves the image of is visited by a number of devotees. Goddess goddess Dakshina Kali as the presiding deity of

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 29 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review the temple. The presiding deity is a four armed In a niche of the inner side wall contains Durga locally known as Dakshina Kali. The image an image of Mahavira- Hanumana. The two Dakshina Kali is made of black chlorite. It handed Mahavira image has been installed on the measures approximately 1 ½ feet in height and 1 plain pedestal. His right hand displays a huge rock foot in width.5 Here goddess Dakshina Kali is (i.e. Gandhamardana parvata) and the left hand four-armed and seated on a corpse. She displays holds gada. khadga in upper right hand, akshamala in lower Lion is installed on the centre of the floor right hand, pana patra in upper left hand and a of natamandapa. It has one doorway towards the cutting or severed head in lower left hand bhogamandapa. The doorframes of the respectively. The pedestal of Devi is decorated natamandapa are relieved with nagabandhas, lotus with a lion figure. She (presiding deity) is installed petalled designs and flower devices. The Gaja- on the simhasana of 1 ½ feet high. Inner walls of Lakshmi image and navagrahas are completely the sanctum are completely undecorated. The absent in their respective places. Two gaja-simha sanctum has one doorway towards the figures are installed on the both sides of doorway jagamohana. Doorframes of the sanctum are of the natamandapa. devoid of decorative ornamentations. Bhogamandapa Jagamohana or Mukhasala The bhogamandapa of the temple is a The mukhasala of the temple is a pidha pidha shaped structure and it is about 30 feet in deula and its height is about 25 feet from the road height. The sikhara of the bhogamandapa is level. The base of the bada is rectangular and it relieved with various panels relating to goddess measures approximately 15 feet in length and 10 Kali. Dopichha lions are fixed on the top of kanika feet in width. The bada of the jagamohana is bereft pagas of the gandi. There is a mastaka on the top of decorative ornamentations. The bada of the of gandi. The outer as well as inner walls of the jagamohana is surmounted by the pyramidal bhogamandapa are devoid of decorative superstructure. The mastaka of the jagamohana ornamentations. consists of usual elements of Odishan pidha deula. The entire temple complex is enclosed by Inner walls of the mukhasala are completely plain. a masonry wall of 25 feet in height. There is only The doorway of the jagamohana is unornamented. one gateway in the northern side of the temple. Natamandapa Two lions are installed on both sides of the main gateway of the temple. Masonry steps of The natamandapa of the temple is a flat ascending order are arranged for approach roof structure and its height is about 22 feet. The toward the bhogamandapa as well as the sanctum. base of the structure is rectangular and it measures 25 feet in length and 18 feet in width. Inner walls Date of the temple of the natamandapa are depicted with paintings Local people say that the temple was of pancha mukhi Ganesha, Varaha-Lakshmi, constructed during the contemporary period of Siddhesvari, Siva, Krishna, Kali, Mangala, the Jagannatha temple but it is not accepted by Bagala, Shyamakali, Jaya Durga, Vana-Durga, the scholars of History as well as Archaeology. Ugra-, Narayani and Sarasvati. B.K. Ratha has referred that the Dakshina Kali

30 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 temple was built in the seventeenth century A.D.6 pedestal. Her left hand displays a pana patra and The architectural features of the temple indicate the right hand holds a club. Dog, the mount of that the vimana and jagamohana were constructed Devi is carved on the left side of the pedestal. nd th in coeval of the 2 half of 16 century A.D. and Devi Srugalamukhi is the parsvadevata both the natamandapa and bhogamandapa are of the western side. The two handed image of built in later period. This temple has been Devi Srugalamukhi has been installed on the plain completely renovated in 1957 A.D. by the pedestal. Her right hand displays katuri or khadga Department of State Archaeology, Bhubaneswar. and the left hand holds a panapatra. Here Devi is 3. Shyamakali Temple in seated posture. Jackle, the conventional mount The temple of Goddess Shyamakali is of Devi is installed on the left side of the pedestal. situated at Balisahi of Puri town and it is also exactly Devi Asvamukhi is the parsvadevata of located 1 km to the southern side of Lord the southern side. She has been installed on the Jagannatha temple. This temple is exactly located backside of a horse. Her right hand displays a on the right side of the Shyamakali Sahi, leading katuri and the left hand holds the rein (lagam) of from Shyamakali Chowk to Tiadisahi. As per the horse. All the side deities are in ugra form. local tradition, the Shyamakali temple was built The bada of the vimana is surmounted by during the reign of Mukunda Deva, the King of the pyramidal superstructure, which consists of Odisha and later on renovated by the local four pidhas. Small dopichha lions are fixed on the rulers.This temple is built in both sand stones and top of kanika pagas of the gandi. Deula Charini bricks. From the architectural point of view, this figures are inserted in the four cardinal directions temple is not so important. It consists of three of the beki above rahas. components such as vimana, jagamohana and natamandapa. The temple faces to east. The mastaka of the vimana consists of beki, ghanta (bell shaped member) above which Vimana there is another beki, amalaka sila, khapuri, The vimana of the temple is a pidha deula kalasa, ayudha (chakra) and dhvaja. and its height is about 20 feet from the surface of The sanctum preserves the image of the temple complex. The base of the bada is square goddess Kali as the presiding deity of the temple. of 15 feet. The bada of the vimana is panchanga Here the presiding deity is called as ‘Shyamakali’ type i.e. having five fold divisions such as pabhaga, who is the first of the ten avatars (incarnations) of tala jangha, bandhana, upper jangha and baranda. Goddess Durga. Shyamakali is the fearful and All the component parts of the bada are ferocious form of the mother goddess Durga. She completely undecorated. is four armed and stands in pratyalidha pose on The central niches of the three sides of the the chest of Lord Shiva. She is engaged here in bada are housed with parsvadevata images of devi reverse cohabitation with Lord Siva. She displays Kukutamukhi, Srugalamukhi and Asvamukhi. khadga in left upper hand, cutting head in left Devi Kukutamukhi is the parsvadevata of the lower hand, abhaya mudra in upper right hand northern side. The two armed Devi and varada mudra in lower right hand. Her (Kukutamukhi) has been installed on the plain iconography confirms to the dhyana of goddess

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Dakshinakali of Puri town. The height of the slab Simha mukhi and Vyaghra mukhi are installed on of deity measures 3 ½ feet.7 It is also carved with both sides of the doorway. They are acting as the dog, jackle, kite and crow. The images of goddess dvarapalas of the temple. Vimala and Mangala are also worshipped in the Jagamohana or Mukhasala sanctum. They are installed on both sides of the presiding deity and made of brass. Both these The jagamohana of the temple is additional deities are about 1 ½ feet in height. a flat roof structure and its height is about 12 feet. Goddess Vimala displays snake in lower right The base of the bada is rectangular and it measures hand and amrutakalasa in lower left hand 25 feet in length and 15 feet in width. The outer respectively. Devi Mangala displays candra in walls of the bada of the jagamohana are bereft of upper right hand, rosary in lower right hand, ornamentation. Inner side niches of the eastern padma in upper left hand and lotus flower with a wall contain two Mahavira (Hanumana) images. stalk in lower left hand respectively. She has been The jagamohana has five doorways; one on worshipping in the sanctum since 1980’s and eastern, three on western and one on southern acting as the calanti pratima of Devi Shyamakali. side respectively. Raja Narasimha Deva (1621–1647 A.D.) is The doorjambs of the eastern side are stated to have built the palace at Balisahi. It is decorated with naga-bandhas. The centre of the believed that Devi Shyamakali must have been doorway lintel is decorated with a khadga installed some time during that period.8 G.C. (sword). Navagrahas are carved on the architrave Tripathy has mentioned that goddess Shyamakali above the doorway lintel. They are all in yogasana is the tutelary deity of Gajapati Maharaja of Puri.9 posture with usual attributes in hands. Ganga and The shrine of Devi Shyamakali is one of the Yamuna are acting as the dvarapalas of the eastern famous holy spots of the kshetra. Goddess side doorway. Other doorways of the jagamohana Shyama Kali was the presiding deity of the old are completely undecorated. palace of Puri. As per the local tradition, Natamandapa Shyamakali has been the official deity for the Gajapati Maharaja (King) of Puri for hundreds The natamandapa of the temple is a flat roofed structure and its height is about 15 feet. It of years. Shyamakali is one of the famous is built in 1950’s by the cooperation of devotees. Goddesses of Puri. She was possibly established The outer walls of the natamandapa are completely at Bali Sahi, Puri town by the Bhoi dynasty after plain. Lion, the conventional mount of Devi is it shifted its headquarters from Khurdha to Puri. installed on the plain square sized pedestal, which She is worshipped in Dakshina Kali mantra and noticed in the centre of the floor of natamandapa. confirms to the dhyana of first Mahavidya Kali. Open windows are provided for ventilation of air The sanctum has one doorway towards and sunlight towards the interior of the the jagamohana. Door frames of the sanctum are natamandapa. Inner wall niches of the completely undecorated. The Gaja-Lakshmi natamandapa are housed with sculptures of image is carved on the centre of the doorway lintel. various deities and they are also finely painted Navagrahas are absent in the architrave above with different colours. The niches of the western the doorway lintel. Two female figures named inner wall contain images of the Dasamahavidyas

32 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 Odisha Review ISSN 0970-8669 such as Ma Adya-Kali, Ugra-Tara, Tripura- Two lions on couchant elephants are Sundari, Bhubansvari, Chhinna Masta, Bhairavi, installed on both sides of the eastern doorway. Dhumabati, Kamala, etc. The western inner wall There is a small Siva temple noticed in of the natamandapa also contains other deities in the southern side of the Shyamakali temple its niches. They are viz: Mahakali, Maha Lakshmi, complex. It consists of two structures such as Maya, Chhaya, Maha Sarasvati and Maha Gauri. vimana and jagamohana. The sanctum of the The northern side inner wall of the vimana preserves dvadasa (twelve) Jyoti lingas natamandapa contains some other deities in its as the presiding deity of that additional shrine, niches. They are Maa Kala Ratri, Ashtabhuja which is built in a much later period. Durga, Bhagavati, Kalika, Saila Putri, Lord The temple complex of Shyamakali is Krishna, Kuvera, Bhagaban, etc. enclosed by a boundary wall of 12 feet in height The inner side southern wall of the and it is made of bricks. The eastern and western natamandapa contains images of Devi Vaishnavi, side walls measure 60 feet while the southern and Rudrani, Siva, Katyayani, Skanda Mata, Indra northern sides measure 100 feet respectively. The Devata, Siddha Datri and Maa Tarini. main entrance porch of the temple in eastern side is surmounted by a flat roof and it is about 12 feet The inner wall of the eastern side of the in height. natamandapa also contains some deities such as Date of the temple Maa Brahmani, Dasabhuja Durga, Brahma, , Maa Candra-Ghanta and Brahma There is no authentic record with regard Charini. to the exact date of the Shyamakali temple of Srikshetra. According to Hari Hara Bahinipati, All the above deities are made of modern the Shyamakali temple was possibly built by one cement and they are executed in 1970’s by the of the Ganga rulers of Puri.10 On the basis of the local artists of Puri. architectural style, the construction period of the Paintings Shyamakali temple can be tentatively assigned to the 2nd half of the 17th century A.D. Both the The inner walls of the natamandapa are jagamohana and natamandapa are built in a later depicted with paintings of Durga Madhava, Siva period in the 2nd half of the twentieth century. and Parvati, Ardhanarisvara, Maa Chamunda, Maa Yogamaya, Maa Mahamaya, Maa Besides the above three Kali temples, the Jvalamukhi and Sri Ganesha. These paintings are shrines of Smasana Kali and Gachha Kali are also also executed by the local artists of Puri. found at Srikshetra. These two modern shrines are not significance from the architectural point The natamandapa has two doorways; one of view. Hence, these two temples are not purview on the eastern side and another on the north-east of our discussion. corner. The doorjambs of the eastern side are decorated with flower medallions and lotus Conclusion petalled devices. The centre of the doorway lintel Thus it is known from the above is carved with an image of Ganesha. discussion that the presence of Kali temples

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER - 2019 33 ISSN 0970-8669 Odisha Review proves the popularity of Kali worship at 2. J. B. Padhi, Sri Jagannatha, At-Puri, Puri, 2000, Srikshetra. The temples of Bedhakali, p.3. Dakshinakali and Shyamakali were constructed 3. Chakravarty, C. & Chandra, P., The : in the late medieval period of Odishan history. Studies on Their Religion & Literature, Calcutta, Really, beautiful images of goddess Kali are found p.90. Also see H.C. Das, Iconography of Sakta Divinities, Vol.1, Pratibha Prakashan; Delhi,1997, preserved inside the shrine represent the Odishan p.20. classical art of the medieval period. As per the 4. B.K. Ratha (ed.), The Forgotten Monuments of tradition, most of the devotees visit goddess Orissa, Vol.3, New Delhi, 1990, pp. 229-230. Bedha Kali, Dakshina Kali, Shyamakali, Gachha Kali and Smasana Kali after visiting Lord 5. H.H. Mohapatra, “Sri Dakshinakali”, in B.Mishra (ed.), Sri Kshetrara Deva Devi (Odia), Puri, 2003, Jagannatha of Srimandira. Festivals like Kali Puja, p.5. Deepavali, Durga Puja, Kumara Purnima, Chaitra 6. B.K. Ratha (ed.), op.cit., p. 230. Mangalabara, etc. are observed in all the above Kali temples of Srikshetra. On the Kalipuja day 7. H.H. Bahinipati, “Maa Shyamakali,” in B. Mishra (ed.), op. cit. , 2003, p. 81. lot of devotees arrive here to offer their prayer to Goddess Kali to get Her blessings on this 8. Jagabandhu Padhi, Sri Jagannatha at Puri, Puri, auspicious day. Although the architectural features 2000, p.139. of the Kali temples of Srikshetra are not of so 9. G.C. Tripathy, Sri Kshetra Sri Mandira, Sri importance but from the religious point of view, Jagannatha (Odia), Bhubaneswar, 1996, p.181. these temples are of very significance, for which 10. H.H. Bahinipati, op.cit., 2003, p. 85. a large number of devotees do visit goddess Kali shrines of Srikshetra with great enthusiasm and devotion. References : 1. N. Senapati & D.C. Kuanr (eds.), Orissa District Dr. Ratnakar Mohapatra, Lecturer, Department of Gazetteer; Puri, Orissa Government Press; History, KISS, Deemed to be University, KISS Cuttack, 1977, p.771. Campus-3, PO.- KIIT, Patia, Bhubaneswar,- 751024.

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