SEWING INSTRUCTIONS GRACE OF MOVEMENTS TOP FI08001 TABLE OF CONTENTS

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instructions ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Chest darts ...... 11 2. Waist darts ...... 12 3. right ...... 13 4. ...... 15 5. Open the ...... 19 6. Placket le ...... 20 7. Side seams ...... 21 8. Shoulder seams ...... 23 9. Double-fold ...... 24 10. ...... 27 11. Continuous bound placket...... 30 12. ...... 34 13...... 36

14. Sewing botons ...... 41 15. Det ...... 44 16. Detachable collar ...... 53

SEWING SUGGESTION ...... 60

GLOSSARY ...... 66

Grace of movements top FI08001 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Bobbins

Dressmaking Sewing needle for ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

9

8

7 3 6

5

4 2

3

2 1 1

Thread snips Tailors chalk; Safety pin Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle

Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing thread Sleeve Board

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • 3/8” (1 cm) • Sewing threads

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

DEATCHABLE PIECE BODY MEASUREMENTS cm cm BODY HEIGHT cm

N I BUST cm cm cm M HIP cm

BODY HEIGHT cm X

A BUST cm cm cm M HIP cm

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Shirtings Medium 3-5 % Stretch Sateen /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Medium Heavy Satin /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g) Charmeuse

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

BA AA

A B C D E

F GA N NA K KA DAA HAB HAA FA G EA

HA EAA I

DA H J L M

TOP FABRIC PIECES Front Le A Front Right B Back C Placket Le AA Placket Right BA Sleeve Right D Sleeve Le E Upper collar stand F Under collar stand FA Upper Cu Right DA Upper Cu Le EA Under Cu Right DAA Under Cu Le EAA DETACHABLE COLAR FABRIC PIECES Upper Collar H Under Collar HA Upper Collar Stand G Under Collar Stand GA Hidden Triangle HAB; HAA DETACHABLE FABRIC PIECES Top Piece Right J Top Pleat Piece Le M Bottom Pleat Piece Right I Bottom Pleat Piece Le L Upper Buttonhole Tape K; N Under Buttonhole Tape KA; NA

* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

selvage

bias grain

cross grain selvage

lengthwise grain

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains.

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 8 Sewing technology A AA

EA D HA EAA D

H

FA F GA G

KA BA HAB HAA K NA AA N

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS

SERGE

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE 1.2

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW 1.3

Sew the side seams.

Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 10 How to read instructions

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team