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Grace of Movements Top Fi08001 Table of Contents

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Grace of Movements Top Fi08001 Table of Contents SEWING INSTRUCTIONS GRACE OF MOVEMENTS TOP FI08001 TABLE OF CONTENTS METHODOLOGY . 3 Symbology . 3 Suggested equipment . 4 Things you need . 5 Pattern pieces . 6 Sewing technology . 7 How to read instructions . 10 SEWING . 11 1. Chest darts . 11 2. Waist darts . 12 3. Placket right . 13 4. Buttonholes . 15 5. Open the buttonhole . 19 6. Placket le . .20 7. Side seams . 21 8. Shoulder seams . 23 9. Double-fold hem . 24 10. Collar . 27 11. Continuous bound placket. 30 12. Sleeve . 34 13. 36 14. Sewing botons . 41 15. Det . .44 16. Detachable collar . 53 SEWING SUGGESTION . 60 GLOSSARY . 66 Grace of movements top FI08001 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY PATTERN MARKINGS SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE CENTER LINE FOLD LINE PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE GATHER STRETCH BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH SEAM STRUCTURE INTERFACING FABRIC ZIPPER SERGE CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH SEWING LINE FOLD LINE Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Bobbins Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch 9 8 7 3 6 5 4 2 3 2 1 1 Thread snips Tailors chalk; Safety pin Ruler soap or fabric pen 3” 4 8 3” 1” 1” 1 1 4 2 1 8 1” 1” 4 1” 8 5” Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing thread Sleeve Board Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED • Fabric • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • 3/8” (1 cm) Buttons • Sewing threads The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric DEATCHABLE PIECE BODY MEASUREMENTS cm cm BODY HEIGHT cm N I BUST cm cm cm M HIP cm BODY HEIGHT cm X A BUST cm cm cm M HIP cm Recommended fabrics: FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Shirtings Medium 3-5 % Stretch Sateen /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Cotton Medium Heavy Satin /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g) Charmeuse Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES BA AA A B C D E F GA N NA K KA DAA HAB HAA FA G EA HA EAA I DA H J L M TOP FABRIC PIECES Front Le A Front Right B Back C Placket Le AA Placket Right BA Sleeve Right D Sleeve Le E Upper collar stand F Under collar stand FA Upper Cu Right DA Upper Cu Le EA Under Cu Right DAA Under Cu Le EAA DETACHABLE COLAR FABRIC PIECES Upper Collar H Under Collar HA Upper Collar Stand G Under Collar Stand GA Hidden Button Triangle HAB; HAA DETACHABLE CUFF FABRIC PIECES Top Pleat Piece Right J Top Pleat Piece Le M Bottom Pleat Piece Right I Bottom Pleat Piece Le L Upper Buttonhole Tape K; N Under Buttonhole Tape KA; NA * Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line. Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY Fabric key Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing Interfacing placement on garment Laying out and cutting fabric selvage bias grain cross grain selvage lengthwise grain Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains. Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =” 1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints. Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric. Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 8 Sewing technology A AA EA D HA EAA D H FA F GA G KA BA HAB HAA K NA AA N Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric. Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS SERGE action Finishing the side seams. PLACE 1.2 Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges. SEW 1.3 Sew the side seams. Grace of movements top METHODOLOGY FI08001 Page 10 How to read instructions BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN, YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION Thank you, Fayma Team .
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