SOUTH ISLES - HOY SOUTH ISLES - HOY, the HIGH ISLAND T
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ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:33 Page 374 SOUTH ISLES - HOY SOUTH ISLES - HOY, THE HIGH ISLAND t h The difference in terrain is g i r y caused by the rocks. Hoy is p o c mostly composed of Upper n w o Old Red Sandstone, overly- r C ing the Middle Old Red Sandstone, which makes up most of the rest of Orkney. The start of the steep slopes of the Ward Hill (HY229023, 479m) and Cuilags (HY209033, 435m) mark the boundary between the two types of sandstone, which can also be clearly seen in the cliffs to the west. The horizontal beds of sand- The Old Man of Hoy in 1821 by William Daniell stone have weathered to give ries at Nowt Bield and into three areas – north, west dramatic vertical red and Quoyawa on the Ward Hill, and south. The north is yellow cliffs, highest at St Enegars below Cuilags and dominated by large hills, John's Head (HY187033, small coastal ones such as deep valleys and precipitous 351m), the tallest vertical Runnarto and Stours Kinora cliffs, while the dramatic sea cliff in Britain. near the Old Man. Trowie west side also has a very Glen is a fine example of a imposing coastline, as well Hoy is perhaps most famous “hanging valley”. Terminal as a remote and largely for its Old Man moraines from glacial melt- unvisited interior. (HY177008, 137m), a great water are prominent at the rock stack which stands on a Sandy Loch and in South Hoy is divided into lava flow. This hard outcrop Rackwick. Although the parishes of North and forms a skerry which pro- Orkney gets little snow, the South Walls, the latter usual- trudes about 200m out to sea Hoy Hills are often white in ly being called simply from the base of the great winter, due to their height. “Longhope” locally. The stack and has been a key fac- east and south are mostly tor in its formation. Early in Whether the visitor arrives agricultural with many shel- the 19th century there was a on foot from Stromness at tered bays and much more HOY (ON Ha-ey, High being about 20km (12.5 island is more like the second leg on the landward Moaness Pier, or by the car evidence of past human set- Island) is the largest Orkney miles) long by 9km (5.6 Scottish Highlands than side, showing how ephemer- ferry via Lyness, Hoy splits tlement. island after the Mainland, miles) wide. Most of the Orkney, only the southern al our coastal features are. MV “Hamnavoe” passing the Old Man of Hoy on her way to Scrabster end being low and fertile. The Hoy Hills and Hoy Sound from Stromness Other lava flows in the area The north and west coasts at the Kame of Hoy are bounded by spectacular (HY198049) and Too of the cliffs, while the southeast Head (HY192988) have a coast has so many bays that characteristic columnar for- the Vikings called it mation, while there is a Vagaland, Land of Voes. prominent volcanic plug at This became Scotticised into The Witter (HY224047). Wawis, and then Anglicised to Walls. The old pronunci- At the end of the Ice Age the ation of "Waas", however, Hoy Hills retained glaciers has survived. which formed the large cor- 374 375 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:33 Page 376 SOUTH ISLES - HOY SOUTH ISLES - HOY, THE HIGH ISLAND described as the “Garden of Orkney”. This sheltered ravine with its cascading burn holds many species of plants otherwise uncommon or extinct in Orkney. Rackwick (ON Reka-Vik, Jetsam Bay) is a dramatic contrast to the rest of north Berrie Dale, near Rackwick, is the largest area of relict woodland in Orkney Hoy with its wide sand and boulder beach, bound on Moaness Pier is the arrival The attractive old road to both sides by 200m cliffs. point for the ferry from Rackwick from Moaness Climbers on the Old Man The 351m face of St John’s Head is the highest vertical sea cliff in UK This large and quiet glen, Stromness and Graemsay. passes to the north of the which was once well popu- Old Man of Hoy The path mer times the young men of Loop, and that to the north, Overlooking Burra Sound, Ward Hill through the Vale lated with crofters and fish- from Rackwick to the Old Rackwick were well known The Neuk. Both are good the Bu has an interesting old of Hoy from the Sandy ermen, is now nearly desert- Man is steep at first and the for their climbing ability, places for flotsam to collect. house dating from 1615, Loch (HY219033) to the ed except for holiday homes. 6km (3.75 miles) return when they went in search of with crow-stepped gables, Ford of Hoy, passing the It has a beauty and a climate walk takes about 3 hours. birds’ eggs, using “sim- From the Old Man there are while Burra House was built Red Glen, Segal Burn and all of its own. The main Along the way there are mons” made from heather as several alternative return as a manse in 1798. Berrie Dale (ON Berg-Dalr, road to the south of the Ward panoramic views of their ropes. routes to Moaness pier, Cliff Valley) which has been Hill is convenient for a Rackwick and the Pentland depending on time and ener- return to the pier. Firth, which are well worth It is possible to descend to gy. The energetic walk via stopping to admire. A num- the base of the cliffs in dry St John's Head, Cuilags Beware, it is also one of the ber of interesting plants weather in several places by and the Kame may be the favourite places in Orkney inhabit the slopes above the taking obvious paths down most spectacular. Leaden for the dreaded Culicoides path including Arctic the steep slopes, but this is impunctatus, or Midge. In Bearberry, Dwarf Juniper not recommended, and is compensation, Hoy is by far and Least Willow. dangerous except in dry the best place to see dragon- weather. The path to the flies and damsel flies. They There are several dramatic foot of the Old Man is called are common near pools and viewpoints from which to the “Stowar Road”. There steams in late summer. admire the Old Man, includ- is a fine rock-fishing stance The north side of Rackwick has large sandstone boulders ing from the south side of at the Trough to the seaward The spectacular beach at Rackwick has a large expanse of sand and is framed by high cliffs at each end Runnarto (HY004178, ON of the stack, while the bay to Hraun, Heap of Stones), the south is called the Sooth Dragonfly on the Dwarfie Stone from The Knee or Tuaks Mist covers the top of St John’s Head with the Old Man and Rora Head behind O’the Boy, the nearest point to the stack and Scarsa (ON Scard, Notch in a Ridge). It was first climbed in 1966, when the event was tele- vised live, a major feat at that time. Climbers regular- ly ascend the Old Man and neighbouring cliffs, but this is not an endeavour to be undertaken lightly. In for- 376 377 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:33 Page 378 SOUTH ISLES - HOY SOUTH ISLES - HOY, THE HIGH ISLAND After a serious heather fire in 1984, many sub-peat dykes, together with banks and mounds suggesting a prehistoric agricultural set- tlement were revealed in the nearby Whaness Burn area (HY025245). From the Dwarfie Stone it is The Ward Hill (481m)dominates the north of Hoy The top of the Ward Hill said that a “Carbuncle” can at times be seen on the Geo and “Hendry’s Holes” Kame are very steep and a (HY250028) has been half northeast of the upper slopes are sites of former attempts more gentle return is via the eroded by the sea, but still of the Ward Hill during May, at lead mining, while the summit of Cuilags (435m), stands 4m high. It is in a The Sneuk from the south June and July in the late vertiginous view from the with wonderful panoramic good defensive position with evening. This is said to spectacular geos, including shingle storm beach is the Bre Brough and the nearby views, to the Sandy Loch. commanding views of Burra “shine or sparkle with light Lyrie Geo, where young final resting place of several 351m drop below Sui Fea The northeast part of Hoy is Sound and the Bring Deeps. when seen from below”, but men from Rackwick used to wrecks and much flotsam. (378m) are not for those more fertile, and there is a the source has never been catch Manx Shearwaters. Fishermen from Rackwick averse to heights. ruined broch or fort at Other routes back from the found by anyone climbing to The Summer of Hoy Burn and Brims also used to pull Brough of Braebuster Old Man are to head to the seek its source. The tale (ON Sunn-moerr, South up their yoles here in fine Manx Shearwaters still nest (HY052213) as well as an summit of Moor Fea may well be fictional, espe- March or Border) when full, weather. in the craigs of Enegars old chapel and cemetery (304m) and directly back to cially as it is given promi- forms a spectacular waterfall above the Kame. The slopes near the Bu. The Green Hill Rackwick or to take a detour nence by Walter Scott, next to the Sneuk (ON into the Meadow of the of Quoyness broch to Berrie Dale woods.