BERLIN-BOUND WHAT TO DO, WHO TO SEE AND THE CHANGES AHEAD AT BERLIN FASHION WEEK. SECTION II THE DUCHESS AND THE GARTER. PAGE 11

WWDTUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 SHOCK DEPARTURE Michael Francis Exits Key Role at Penney’s No further explanation was RT By DAVID MOIN provided and Penney’s did not re- SO 20 E 13 turn calls seeking comment. R MICHAEL FRANCIS, J.C. Penney Penney’s said Johnson will as- Co. Inc.’s president and flashy sume direct responsibility and image maker, has abruptly left oversight of the company’s market- COLLECTIONS the company. ing and merchandising functions. The stirring development comes In after-hours trading, Penney’s NEW YORK just eight months after Francis shares fell 5.5 percent to $23, fol- joined Penney’s from Target Corp., lowing the announcement, which and adds fuel to concerns over was made after the closing bell. Penney’s daring reinvention and While any company undergoing the aggressive tactics that Francis sharp repositioning would expect was orchestrating along with chief to see declines, the last quarter executive offi cer Ron Johnson. The was worse than either Johnson Easy departure of Francis, Penney’s sec- or investors expected. Penney’s ond-in-command, comes after steep logged a $163 million fi rst-quarter losses at the retailer. loss and an 18.9 percent decline On Monday, Penney’s issued in same-store sales. Despite the a brief announcement about disappointing quarterly report, Francis’ exit, with a statement Johnson maintained that the re- from Johnson that simply read: tailer’s transformation is “way Being “We thank Michael for his hard ahead of schedule” and improving work at J.C. Penney and wish him its fashion offerings. the best in his future endeavors.” SEE PAGE 12 Green Bieber’s New ‘Girlfriend’ In recent years, Ralph Lauren has out today — also reveals a more taken a pass on the pre-collection By MOLLY PRIOR grown-up Bieber. hoopla, preferring to play directly Someday, together with JUSTIN BIEBER is funneling his Girlfriend — which launched at to the consumer. But this season, budding maturity into his latest Macy’s and a host of other nation- reenergized by a lineup steeped in scent, Girlfriend. al retailers on Monday — has the vivid color and elegant classics — “Girlfriend is kind of a more makings of growing celebrity fra- mature version of Someday,” grance empire à la Jennifer Lopez. epitomized by this languid green Bieber told WWD on Monday, re- After all, Someday’s annual sales gown — Lauren changed his ferring to his fi rst fragrance, which reached $39 million according to became the number-one women’s The NPD Group fi gures cited by course and held a pre-spring fragrance launch in U.S. depart- the maker of the Bieber fragrance presentation on Monday. ment stores last year. “It has some franchise, Give Back Brands, which For more resort, see of the same scents to it, but older. was acquired by Elizabeth Arden It’s going to be a great fragrance, Inc. last week. pages 4 and 5. and I think people are going to Bieber — who sounded a little like it a lot,” said the 18-year-old, worse for wear after two weeks of whose new album “Believe” — due SEE PAGE 12

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 WWD.COM Tahari Taps Wilts as Creative Director THE BRIEFING BOX women’s design. Prior to joining By MARC KARIMZADEH Tahari, he was head of interna- IN TODAY’S WWD tional design at Marks & Spencer NEW YORK — Elie Tahari is in the U.K., and before that, beefing up his design team. served in such roles as creative In a move that may just be- director of Roberto Torretta, de- come fashion’s equivalent of sign director for Zara women’s Rick Genest in New York City. Fritz Peterson and Mike Kekich wear and creative director of — the two former New York Maska. Tutino reports to Tahari. Yankees who made headlines for In addition, the company trading families — Tahari tapped hired Gilles Blanchard as its Ingo Wilts as his new creative design director of men’s wear. director of women’s and men’s Blanchard previously was de- design. Wilts was, until last week, sign director of men’s tailored senior vice president and cre- clothing at Calvin Klein, and ative director of Kenneth Cole prior to that served as creative

Productions, which just hired JOHN AQUINO director at Falke, and vice presi- former Tahari executive creative Elie Tahari dent of design-production, men’s director Kobi Halperin as wom- and Ingo Wilts wear development at Marithé et en’s sportswear creative director. PHOTO BY François Girbaud. Blanchard re- The hire comes at a time when his extensive international fash- ports to both Wilts and Tahari. Tahari is restructuring his compa- ion background — particularly in “With the additions of Gilles JENNA GREENE ny amid reports of layoffs to build, men’s wear, a budding category for and Fred joining the Elie Tahari

as he put it, “a brand new founda- Tahari — as the reason for the hire. family, their combined talent and PHOTO BY tion.” He told WWD that before, Before K C P, Wilts served as extensive experience in design “It was a one-story house and the senior vice president and cre- makes them poised to continue Michael Francis, J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s president, has business grew. Now, we are divid- ative director at Hugo Boss and our national and international abruptly left the company just eight months after coming ing it in a way where each prod- its Boss Black, Boss Selection expansion,” Tahari said. over from Target Corp. PAGE 1 uct line has its own focus and its and Boss Green divisions, design- As for the Wilts-Halperin own team, instead of everybody ing women’s and men’s wear and swap, Tahari called it a “pure co- Justin Bieber’s second fragrance, Girlfriend, launched at doing everything.” accessories for nine years. incidence.” “Ingo resigned [from Macy’s and a host of other national retailers on Monday, At Tahari, Wilts, a native of Asked what appealed to him KCP] about six months ago, and I joining Someday in the pop star’s scent empire. PAGE 1 Germany, will oversee all design about the Elie Tahari brand, think Kobi just started there,” he efforts for women and men, as well Wilts cited the higher quality and said. “Kenneth is my friend and Georges Plassat, in his first public speech since taking over as T Tahari and licensee divisions. range of product. “I look forward I wish him all the best, and so is as chairman and chief executive officer of Carrefour, said it Wilts, whose first day was Monday, to working with Elie and helping Kobi. He is a good guy.” would take three years to turn the company around. PAGE 6 is also expected to help with the him improve his business,” Wilts If all this seems like an epi- company’s e-commerce business. said. “We can build the team and sode of “Wife Swap,” the reality Footwear brand Alexandre Birman has tapped Caden Tahari, to whom Wilts will re- elevate the whole brand.” television show on Lifetime, then Stobart as global president. PAGE 6 port, said the designer’s mandate To that effect, Tahari also so be it. “We got the better half,” is “to elevate the brand,” citing tapped Fred Tutino as director of Tahari said with a chuckle. Oscar winner and former “American Idol” contestant Jennifer Hudson is introducing the Jennifer Hudson Collection for QVC in September. PAGE 7

Greece Elections Fail to Inspire Investors The Tory Burch brand today will unveil a redesign of Index gained 1.1 percent to While the immediate threat of its Tory Blog and introduce its first Tory Daily iPad and By EVAN CLARK 621.86 as Amazon.com Inc.’s stock a Greek withdrawal from the euro iPhone app. PAGE 7 rose 2 percent to $222.66. The has passed, debt watchdog Fitch SUNDAY’S ELECTION in Greece Dow Jones Industrial Average Ratings warned: “The crisis in The Australian wool industry is waking up from a long gave investors what they want- lost momentum, slipping 0.2 per- Greece and the euro zone remains slumber after a decade of depressed supply and demand ed — a political landscape that cent to 12,741.82. intense. Fiscal austerity and pain- and a dirth of marketing activity. PAGE 8 keeps the euro zone whole, at Investors worried last week ful structural reform combined least for now — but the win wasn’t that Greece would vote in lead- with a strong parliamentary oppo- A host of British brands wrapped up London’s inaugural enough to overshadow brewing ers who would ultimately steer sition…means that the new Greek men’s fashion week with parties on Sunday. PAGE 9 troubles in Spain and Italy, which the country away from the euro, government is likely to be fragile.” face steep borrowing costs. destabilizing the currency bloc Among the U.S. fashion stocks Alexa Chung is the latest “It” girl to hook up with Maje The yield on 10-year Spanish and sparking bank runs across losing ground were Fossil Inc., and will be the face of the French contemporary brand’s bonds hit 7.19 percent, and Italy’s the continent. But conservative down 3.4 percent to $72.93; Guess fall advertising campaign. PAGE 9 debt wasn’t too far behind, at 6.09 and socialist political parties Inc., 2.1 percent to $28.42; Kohl’s percent, according to Tradeweb. that support Greece’s bailout Corp., 1.8 percent to $43.72, and Jeffry Aronsson has joined the Ralph Rucci company That’s dangerous territory, and and the accompanying austerity Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 1.2 per- as chief executive officer. PAGE 11 shows investors still see the coun- measures won enough seats in cent to $31.15. tries as vulnerable to euro-zone the country’s parliament to form In Europe, Carrefour SA sank Louis Vuitton’s case against Warner Bros. Entertainment shocks. Greece, Portugal and a coalition pro-euro government. 3.2 percent to 14.04 euros after Inc. over the use of counterfeit luggage in “The Hangover Ireland needed bailouts when “The problem is not solved, the new chief executive George Part II” was dismissed on Friday. PAGE 12 the interest on their government but the crisis is avoided,” said Plassat laid out plans to retrench bonds reached 7 percent. James Smith, chief economist at and increase profitability, and And stocks were mixed. Parsec Financial Management. Geox SpA fell 2.1 percent to 1.71 ON WWD.COM Milan’s FTSE MIB fell 2.9 percent “We’re back to where we were euros. The gainers included to 13,009.63, as Madrid’s IBEX three months ago.” Burberry Group plc, up 2.9 per- ZOMBIE BOY: L’Oréal concealer brand Dermablend 35 sank 3 percent to 6,519.90 and Smith said the result in Greece cent to 13.46 pounds; Marks and Professional announced fashion muse and tattoo icon Rick Paris’ CAC 40 declined 0.7 per- was “better than most people Spencer Group plc, 1.5 percent Genest as its first male spokesmodel. He spoke to WWD cent 3,066.19. On the upswing could have hoped” and that inves- to 3.26 pounds, and Safilo Group about what the future looks like when you’re playing dead. were Frankfurt’s DAX, which tors are “listening way too much SpA, 3.1 percent to 4.34 euros. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. inched up 0.3 percent to 6,248.20, to the gloom-and-doom crowd. The euro traded at $1.26 while and London’s FTSE 100, advanc- “Europe could have blown up the pound traded at $1.57. ing 0.2 percent to 5,491.09. today, and it didn’t. That’s cause —WITH CONTRIBUTIONS TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS FROM SAMANTHA CONTI [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. On Wall Street, the S&P Retail for rejoicing,” he said. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 126. TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, Nordstrom Taps Tricia Smith GMM for Women’s March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, NORDSTROM INC. plugged a big Petite Focus, Narrative, Studio across divisions. In 2010, Smith Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at hole in its team of merchants by 121, Point of View, Individualist, became corporate merchandise New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses promoting Tricia Smith to execu- Savvy and t.b.d. departments. manager for B P. and kids’ wear. to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S tive vice president and general Nordstrom organizes its women’s Nordstrom cited her “strong WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, merchandise manager of wom- clothing by lifestyle and occasion. collaborative partnership with call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent en’s apparel. Smith joined the company Nordstrom Product Group and new label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless Smith, who was corporate mer- in 1988 as a salesperson in the suppliers such as Peek…Aren’t Yo u we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on chandise manager for the B P. teen B P. department at Nordstrom in Curious and other brands to repo- all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all girls’ department, succeeds Loretta Brea, Calif. She held various de- sition the kids’ wear offering while editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Soffe, who left in January. In 2011, partment management and buy- driving full-line store sales increas- of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Nordstrom’s business overall was ing positions until 2006, when she es and explosive online growth. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that strong, though there was softness became divisional merchandise Additionally, Smith has led strong we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at in certain women’s categories. manager for B P. Later, she was results in B P. and further strength- P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Smith will oversee the team, named national merchandise ened the department’s position ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER covering all buying functions manager for coats and dresses as the teen girls’ destination for UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR for women’s clothing, includ- and helped lead the launch of the on-trend clothes and accessories.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ing the coats, dresses, Encore, company’s wedding-suite offering — DAVID MOIN SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

REGISTER BY JULY 20TH FOR A SPECIAL RATE GL BAL SOURCING LEADING THROUGH CHANGE

Corporate Social Responsibility: Protecting the people and places throughout the global supply chain Beyond China: Where are the next big sourcing opportunities? Politicking: How the upcoming election will affect the industry What’s Next: The evolution of the global supply model

OCTOBER 2, 2012 // NYC

FOR INFORMATION ON ATTENDING [email protected] or 212.630.5926 FOR INFORMATION ON SPONSORSHIP [email protected] or 212.630.4425

SPONSORED BY: 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 Resort 2013 Ralph Lauren Versace Narciso Rodriguez Ralph Lauren: “Because of the mood in Europe, I thought it was time to do something happy and strong,” said Ralph Lauren, before introducing his pre-spring collection. A revisitation of his classics — fringed suede jackets, flared pants, sleek sheaths and safari styles — were updated in long, lean lines that served as a blank canvas for bold tones like magenta, yellow and chartreuse, as well as a plucky multicolored plaid. Worn head-to-toe, as in a yellow leather motorcycle jacket (which, Lauren noted, was a hot number at retail in pink) and matching skirt, the clothes radiated optimism. To temper the palette, the silhouettes were also worked in more muted shades of khaki and green, while a range of sharp bags were shown in neutrals. The signature Ricky, for example, was updated in matte black. Still, Lauren’s main message was all about brights. As he said, “When you have color, business gets better.”

Versace: “Rockmantic” is the word Donatella Versace coined for her strong collection, which was centered around tailoring and a colorful new print that combined guitars, flowers, heels, Baroque elements and Greek stripes. The designer also found inspiration in Milan’s Memphis style, the revolutionary Italian design movement founded in the Eighties. Thus a black leather zipped jacket and matching miniskirt were whipstitched with neon yellow hearts and lightning bolts, while an oversize printed silk shirt, worn as a dress, featured pink-gold snaps in the shape of the house’s iconic Medusa head. When open, they added a cool, asymmetric shape to the look.

Narciso Rodriguez: For Narciso Rodriguez, resort should be easy. “The idea,” he said, “was to do something that was languid but still quite tailored.” Which is just what he delivered with several terrific bias-cut jackets that, while constructed, still felt casually elegant, especially when rendered in linen or a jacquard with a pythonlike texture. Rodriguez also took some cues from a wall of ribbons in his studio, which he translated into paneled color-blocked tops and dresses pieced together to expose just the right amount of skin, underscoring the designer’s architectural skills.

Dsquared2: With a hard-hitting Nineties influence, citing Linda Evangelista as muse, Dean and Dan Caten showed all sorts of leather at Dsquared2. “Biker couture — with an unapologetically sexy vibe” is how they described the look. As for color, black and white were spiked with flashes of brights, such as the chic white skirt suit worn over a fuchsia bra top.

Antonio Marras: Antonio Marras said he “grafted two different worlds and cultures” by paying tribute to both the Japonism and Memphis design movements. Iconic Japanese floral motifs were mixed with pops of geometric graphics on several of the looks, including an asymmetric, multilayered silk dress. There were also cropped cotton cardigans with embroidered tulle inserts and hand-painted, A-line dresses with leopard and lace details.

No. 21: With his No. 21 lineup, Alessandro Dell’Acqua demonstrated that iconic sportswear can have a superchic attitude — and look extremely feminine to boot. A satin bomber, for instance, was done in a Hawaiian-inspired print with an allover lace back, while Dell’Acqua also took inspiration from the men’s world — i.e., the ruffled minidress done in a checkered cotton shirting fabric.

Norma Kamali: It was a flurry of stripes, metallics and sparkle at Norma Kamali, which included all her usual suspects — body-con dresses, plenty of swimwear (with retro touches and daring cutouts) and the latest versions of her iconic sleeping bag coat. This time, looks for the latter were done in acid yellow or a Sci-Fi-worthy silver.

Richard Chai Love: With a vibe that was part downtown cool, part athletic and part masculine-meets-feminine, Richard Chai’s Love lineup featured silk running pants, a color-blocked anorak and a variety of drawstring dresses — all of it paired with Nike sneakers. “I remember in the early Nineties working for superstylish women who would wear a Helmut jacket with running shoes,” said Chai. “I wanted to bring that spirit of sporty ease dressing into this collection.” For more reSorT, See Cédric Charlier: Linear shapes and colorblocking were key for Cédric Charlier, who showed some great tailored suits and a black-and- WWD.com/ white asymmetric dress with a pale yellow overlay. runway. Lorena Sarbu: “I like to think of this collection as a party wardrobe for Brigitte Bardot,” said Lorena Sarbu, who experimented with laser-cut 3-D elements, beading and lace appliqués. A halter dress with a flared skirt was worked in pearlized blush leather, while the skirt of a sheath dress was done in bright red leather, its top in delicate sheer silk layers.

w19a004(5)a;4.indd 1 6/18/12 7:28 PM 06182012193127 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Versace Narciso Rodriguez Norma Richard Chai Love Cédric Lorena Kamali Charlier Sarbu

Dsquared2 Antonio No. 21 Marras avesi p iovanna g thomas iannaccone and ericksen, chinsee, kyle george john aquino, by photos

w19a004(5)a;4.indd 2 6/18/12 7:29 PM 06182012193128 6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

Schiaparelli Carrefour CEO Sees 3-Year Turnaround Taps Schiavone is Carrefour’s largest single freedom so far,” he said. said it bought Argentine discount By JOeLLe DIDerICh shareholder with around 16 The ceo said that upon ar- supermarket chain eKI for an percent of the share capital riving at Carrefour 10 weeks undisclosed sum to strengthen For Top Post PArIS — Luxury titan and 22 percent of the voting earlier, he found the company its footprint and expand its con- MILAN — As part of Schiaparelli’s Bernard Arnault will have to rights. The fund was rumored “dazed” and its senior manag- venience store network in the comeback, the company has ap- wait a little longer before see- to have precipitated the depar- ers “spaced out” — adding jok- Latin American country. pointed Camilla Schiavone chief ing a return on his investment ture of Plassat’s predecessor ingly that this assessment ap- Plassat said the group executive officer. She was previ- in beleaguered French retailer Lars Olofsson, during whose peared to pain Sébastien Bazin, would similarly mull whether ously brand manager of L’Oréal’s Carrefour SA. three-year tenure Carrefour a representative of Colony to sell its stake in joint ven- fragrance division. That was the message from struggled to turn around its Capital on the Carrefour board, tures in Turkey and Indonesia, Schiaparelli’s owner, Italian en- Georges Plassat in his first pub- ailing hypermarket business who sat in the front row. but said it intended to remain trepreneur Diego Della Valle, who lic speech since taking over as and posted a string of profit “There is no reason to think in Brazil and China, despite also controls Tod’s SpA, in May chairman and chief executive warnings, causing the shares that this very beautiful French signs of a slowdown in sales in tapped Paris fashion personal- officer of Carrefour, the world’s to fall by more than 40 percent company won’t eventually re- Asia’s leading economy. ity Farida Khelfa to be the spokes- cover the splendor which it “It is obvious that we won’t woman for the storied brand. The has temporarily lost,” Plassat be able to defend our positions company is to be headquartered in Georges continued, but he warned, “We everywhere, at least not while Paris at 21 Place Vendôme. Plassat won’t achieve anything solid in retaining majority stakes in all The brand is gaining exposure less than three years.” the zones where we are present. thanks to the “Schiaparelli and Plassat appeared comfortable We have to curb that and pro- Prada: Impossible Conversations” taking questions from the floor, gressively reduce the company’s exhibition at the Costume Institute including those from critics, who debt to give ourselves the mar- at New York’s Metropolitan included a labor representative gin to defend our very strong Museum of Art, unveiled last month. flanked by several dozen fellow positions in europe,” he said. Della Valle is searching for a union members wearing orange Carrefour has been losing designer and is aiming to name the baseball caps and silently wield- market share in France, which new person in September. The first ing protest signs. accounts for a third of the products are slated for introduction he listed the priorities for group’s sales. Plassat revealed in February 2013, with an emphasis Carrefour as reducing debt, the Carrefour Planet hyper- on accessories, fragrances and cos- decentralizing operations and market concept introduced by metics, along with some clothing. switching to a multiformat Olofsson would be dropped, — LUISA ZARGANI model. Plassat said the com- advocating a return to a strat- pany would have to become egy based on multiple formats. leaner, but stopped short of “Carrefour, which was the announcing any job cuts. king of the hypermarket, must “For several years, this group accept the idea that it has be- Stobart Named has not had the cash to finance come a multiformat retailer,” its ambitions,” he said. “The im- he said, adding that the focus Exec at Birman portant thing is for the group to would shift back to food, with restore its financing capacity in nonfood products brought in FOOTWeAr BrAND Alexandre

PHOTO COURTESY order to defend its market share on a seasonal basis in order to Birman has tapped Caden Stobart in the face of competition.” keep inventories lean. as global president. second-largest retailer after last year alone. Plassat gave a taste Including franchises, Formerly president of the Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Shares in Carrefour closed of things to come, when Carrefour employed 412,443 Americas at Sergio rossi, Stobart Speaking to the company’s down 3.17 percent to 14.03 Carrefour on Friday revealed people in 33 countries as of will report directly to Birman. annual general meeting here euros, or $17.73, on the Paris it was pulling out of its joint Dec. 31. The group had 9,771 Although the company owns its on Monday as unionists dem- Stock exchange on Monday. venture in Greece, where sales stores, including 1,452 hyper- own factory in Brazil — where 70 per- onstrated noisily outside, Olofsson submitted his res- have fallen sharply as a result markets, 2,995 supermarkets, cent of production occurs (the remain- Plassat said it would take ignation in May, shortening on the ongoing economic cri- 5,170 smaller format retailers ing 30 percent takes place in Italy) three years to turn around the planned transition period sis. The decision came two and 154 cash-and-carry stores. — the designer said this new, New Carrefour, which is faced between the two executives. days before a general election The shareholders’ assembly York-based role is instrumental in the with a slowdown in consumer Shareholders booed at the men- won by the conservative, pro- voted in favor of giving Plassat brand’s international expansion. spending not only in the debt- tion of his name, with several bailout New Democracy party. a three-year mandate, with 76.7 “In order to provide a sustain- ridden euro zone, but also in protesting against the terms of Carrefour sold its stake percent in favor and 22 percent able growth and to expand our glob- emerging markets like China. his retirement package, which in Carrefour Marinopoulos against. It narrowly approved al distribution, we decided to struc- “We will face headwinds, include a noncompete clause to its local partner, the Olofsson’s compensation pack- ture our headquarters in New York let there be no illusions,” the worth 1.5 million euros, or $1.9 Marinopoulos Group, which age, with 51.3 percent in favor and we gladly were introduced to plainspoken executive told the million at current exchange. will become its exclusive and 48.1 percent against. Caden, who we are sure will be the assembly. “We must not gaze at Plassat dismissed sugges- franchisee in Greece, Cyprus, But in a sign of growing perfect executive to run our brand our navels here in europe — tions by other shareholders Bulgaria, Albania and other shareholder revolt europe- globally,” Birman told WWD. consumer spending is falling that Arnault, who did not at- Balkan countries. The sale wide, the meeting rejected two Stobart, who previously held everywhere worldwide.” tend the annual meeting, was will result in a mostly noncash resolutions covering the attribu- posts at Gucci Group and Alexander Blue Capital, the invest- exerting undue pressure be- charge of around 220 million tion of stock options and shares, McQueen, calls this an “important ment fund owned by Groupe hind the scenes. “I can tell you euros, or $274 million. performance related or not, to time” for the company’s develop- Arnault and Colony Capital, that we have worked with total The previous day, the retailer company employees in 2012. ment. — RAcheL StRUGAtZ Suit Supply Adding Two U.S. Stores

ONe YeAr after sticking its everything starts with talent and 3,000-square-foot rooftop garden, toe into U.S. waters with a store that’s the biggest challenge.” where customers can relax or tap in Soho, Suitsupply is ready to De Jong said since opening, into the store’s free Wi-Fi. “Our expand. the Soho store has done well idea is to create the ultimate men’s The Amsterdam-based men’s with suits and sport coats. And fashion destination in the Midwest wear retailer will open two ad- the “more elegant casualwear” in our new Chicago location at Oak ditional units in the U.S. this has also garnered fans as well, and rush Street,” de Jong said. summer — one on rush Street particularly online. “We get a “We are building a green Chicago in Chicago, on June 29, and an- lot of feedback on our higher- oasis on our rooftop garden, pro- other on 29th and M Streets in priced product, Jort and Sienna, viding a nice escape to relax in Georgetown, in July. which has handmade features, while your suit is being tailored on- “We have a very strong be- so we’re going to be expanding site.” he added that the company lief in the U.S. market,” said that. We also have seen big de- wants to make sure it can be suc- Fokke de Jong, founder and mand for outerwear and knit- cessful outside of New York, and chief executive officer. The wear, which is very good news Chicago is “a good test market.” because that’s the newest part In D.C., the store will be span company operates 40 stores in The Chicago of our collection.” 5,800 square feet on the ground europe and Asia and specializ- store will have a As a result, the stores will floor. “We are opening in D.C. es in european-style suits, dress rooftop garden. shirts and furnishings. “We’re offer a beefed-up assortment because even just from walking very pleased with the Soho of knitwear, outerwear, denim around town, you see how many store. We’ve found and hired 40 and accessories such as shoes, young professionals are in suits there’s great opportunity there. he said. “We’ll see how Chicago people in the U.S., and we’re belts and ties. and [we] really wanted to make De Jong said there are no im- and D.C. go, but you don’t have looking for a lot more. We’re set- The Chicago unit will be 5,500 it easier for our D.C.-based on- mediate plans to add additional to be a scientist to figure out ting up buying teams, and we’re square feet and located in the line customers to shop closer stores outside of the two open- that there is good potential for looking for online and visual penthouse of the old Barneys to home,” he said. “We like the ing this summer. “We have no more stores in the U.S.” merchandising people. We know New York building. It has a Georgetown vibe and think carved-in-stone rollout plan,” — JeAN e. PALMIeRI

w19a006a;13.indd 6 6/18/12 8:37 PM 06182012203819 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 7 WWD.COM

then there’s her love of pockets, evident in hand hideaways in a $75 sheer maxiskirt Jennifer Hudson to Launch QVC Line with a short, discreet lining. “My favorite thing is the pockets,” she said, rising from her hotel bungalow’s sofa to show how the By KhaNh t.l. tRaN skirt lengthens her svelte For more 5-foot, 9-inch frame. “ Yo u BeVeRlY hIllS — after catching the images, see throw a heel on and you have public’s attention on “american Idol” legs that look like days long.” and winning an Oscar for “Dreamgirls,” WWD.com/ hudson’s experience Jennifer hudson is returning to tV — as markets-news. doing the step-and-repeat QVc’s next celebrity designer. on the red carpet in looks by Professing a lifelong fascination with givenchy, Roberto cavalli and fashion that started with youthful t-shirt other designer labels also contributed to a cut-ups and culminated in the wedding $74.50 body-hugging knit dress accentuated dress she designed for her upcoming nup- with ruching on the sides and a lace inset tials to harvard-educated lawyer-turned- in the back. “For the average woman, we pro wrestler David Otunga, the 30-year-old can tell them they can dress like an Oscar entertainer is introducing the Jennifer winner,” she said. “how about that?” hudson collection for QVc in September. to promote her inaugural collection, hudson, who shed 80 pounds as a celebrity hudson will participate in a one-hour spokeswoman for Weight Watchers, said she premiere on the network on Sept. 10. She is designing not only for her former size-16 is scheduled to return to QVc with new persona but also for her new size-6 body — styles in November and December. and all the fans who span that range. Being onstage for QVc will be nothing “I feel like I represent every woman,” new to hudson, who started her singing hudson said before a photo shoot held career at age 7 in her church’s choir in here earlier this month at the Beverly chicago. though she didn’t win the title hills hotel. “I’ve been on both sides of of “american Idol” in 2004, she received the fence. I’ve been a big girl and now both an Oscar and golden globe in 2007 whatever this is, the average size, what- for her portrayal of soul singer effie White ever you want to call it. But I wanted the in the musical “Dreamgirls” costarring clothes to be where any girl could wear it Jamie Foxx and Beyoncé Knowles. two — no matter what size you are — and you years later, she won the grammy for best could feel comfortable in it.” R&B album for her self-titled debut, which hudson’s personal and professional sold 867,000 copies, according to Nielsen transformation appealed to QVc execu- SoundScan. last year, she released her tives, who, in turn, hope it will be an al- sophomore album, “I Remember Me,” lure to the West chester, Pa.-based com- which Nielsen SoundScan said has sold pany’s customers. 441,000 copies to date. “She has this great cinderella story, an after writing a bonus song called aspiration for different women,” said Doug “Stand up” for her first album and pen- howe, QVc’s executive vice president of ning the title track for “I Remember merchandising, planning and sales. Me,” hudson plans to also write on her What’s more, signing hudson would third album. “I’ve learned so much, and give a boost to QVc in reaching the african- I feel I’ve grown a lot,” she said, having american market. Based on the 2010 Jennifer Hudson with survived the brutal 2008 murders of her u.S. census, african-americans num- models wearing looks KEENAN STEFANIE mother, brother and nephew. “I just want ber 38.9 million, or 12.6 percent of the exclusive from her QVC collection. to show my growth as an artist and as a

u.S. population. Nielsen co., the New PHOTO BY musician, not only as a vocalist but as a York-based information and research writer and everything else.” firm, said african-americans are expected Rachel zoe, heidi Klum, lisa Rinna and clothes that elongate the silhouette and as if she’s not busy enough designing to spend $967 billion this year. Moreover, Joan Rivers to collaborate on fashion and flatter the figure into 14 items that can be clothes, making an album and raising her Nielsen said that if buying power were accessories sold exclusively on QVc. dressed up or down. She swears that every two-year-old son with Otunga, hudson quantified as gross domestic product, the Not to be outdone, QVc’s archri- single piece is something she would wear starts filming two movies back to back this african-american community would be the val, Saint Petersburg, Fla.-based hSN, herself. “It has to be true to me,” she said, month. In “lullaby,” costarring amy adams 16th largest country in the world, ranked has linked to a slew of famous faces for tapping her chest for emphasis. “I would and garrett hedlund, she plays a no-non- ahead of turkey, australia and taiwan. By partnerships in fashion, beauty and ac- not sign off on it if I would not wear it.” sense nurse who tends to a cancer patient 2015, african-americans are projected to cessories, including Mariah carey, Mary take the $50 pull-on ponte leggings and his estranged daughter and son. then, spend $1.1 trillion annually, Nielsen said. J. Blige, Iman, Serena Williams, tori that she jazzed up for QVc with trapunto in “the Inevitable Defeat of Mister and Broadcasting to nearly 100 million Spelling, Susan lucci and twiggy. Of quilting covering the knees. “I’m the leg- Pete,” directed by george tillman Jr., she homes, QVc downplays that it wants to those, the first four are noteworthy celeb- ging queen,” she said, confessing that she portrays a single mom who is a heroin ad- reach any specific market. rities in the african-american community. owns 300 pairs. “What I love about a leg- dict and leaves her child to fend for himself, “We don’t overtly go out to target some- hSN also carries carol’s Daughter, which ging is, again, it’s a piece you can dress a role “which should be quite challenging, one who is hispanic or african-american,” dubs itself a “poly-ethnic” beauty brand. up or down and it’s still comfortable.” but I’m so excited to do it,” she said. howe said. “We never look at it that way. It hudson said she could play a role in Born, raised and still residing in hudson welcomes more opportunities all starts with the person’s story and prod- drawing the multicultural market as well chicago, she dutifully added coats for her in the future. Some of her dream projects uct. that dictates who buys it.” as fans of film and music to QVc. “I do cold-weather neighbors. Of a charcoal include making customized jewelry, in- Still, hudson is among QVc’s highest think it will bring that in,” she said. “I’m gray coat that hugs the torso with slim- troducing a fragrance and creating a skin profile stars — if not the sole Oscar and looking forward to see that happen.” ming seams before flaring out into a full care line that she wants to call Butter. grammy winner — selling on the tV shop- For her very first fashion design venture, skirt — her most expensive item, priced at “everything that is in the glam world, I ping network. She is the latest celebrity hudson translated her personal prefer- $170 — she said, “It’s cut like a dress. It’s have a love for, especially makeup and cloth- to join Nicole Richie, the Kardashians, ence for subtle earth tones and comfortable very structured [and] very classic.” ing,” she said. “I don’t believe in limits.”

tory Burch chief marketing of- ficer Miki Berardelli told WWD, Tor y Burch Resets With App, Revised Blog adding that this will take place blog, created by london-based ups that enable customers to in two phases. Born from a part- By Rachel StRugatz firm Wednesday, has a more effi- add products on the very page nership with e-commerce solu- cient user interface, as it allows they’re engaging with. tion Netrada, the first phase NeW YORK — tory Burch con- users to still scroll as before or It’s no accident that tory will begin on June 26 on tory- tinues to make evolving in the go directly to the category that Daily will launch the same day burch.com for 30 countries in- digital space a priority for her interests them. since the brand’s first app was cluding canada and australia. eight-year-old company. “We have organized all conceived as the smartphone this will be followed by a today, the brand will unveil a the previous content, which and tablet counterpart to the european expansion in the fall, redesign of its tory Blog and in- formerly lived as tags on the above. Billed by the brand as where e-commerce will open up troduce its first tory Daily iPad left navigation, into an intui- a “once daily delivery system,” to the u.K., germany, France, and iPhone app. tive visual archive that lives content is divided into the same Italy and more. this is the first redesign of at the bottom of every single six sections as the blog that Berardelli projects that inter- the tory Blog since its incep- page,” Brodie said, adding users can control through cus- national e-commerce sales will tion in 2009 (it revamped tory- that upcoming features in- tomizable geo-located push no- be similar to the penetration the burch.com last January). But clude Burch’s travel diary from tifications. content on the app — The Tory Daily app. company sees domestically from according to tory Burch cre- Marrakech, amanda Brooks’ with an emphasis on integrated online shopping. She notes that, ative director honor Brodie, guide to summer style and John e-commerce elements — will be “toryburch.com is the most although europe is the “most es- the fresh, even more visually Delucie’s grocery list. updated daily, and there are ad- visible, trafficked, immer- tablished e-commerce landscape driven design lets fans navigate the concept is aimed at inte- ditional perks for users such as sive experience of our brand. after the u.S.,” a learning curve the site by topic: style, culture, grating content and commerce, free shipping and access to pre- Introducing e-commerce to exists because the adoption of travel, entertaining, experts and and according to Wednesday views and exclusive events only new international markets will digital varies by country. In 2011, music, which the site has never founder Oliver Walsh, users can available on the app. provide global customers with toryburch.com saw a 90 percent covered before. She contended shop posts without ever leaving On June 26, tory Burch will also access to our product, while increase in traffic and online that the latest incarnation of the the blog post — thanks to pop- launch international e-commerce. telling the story of the brand,” sales grow by 87 percent.

w19a007a;8.indd 7 6/18/12 6:55 PM 06182012185624 8 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 WWD.COM textiles AWI Sets Wake-up Call, Freshens Marketing Plan

We’re coming out of a period where a lot The contest aims to develop the next Stuart By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN of our wool growers really weren’t earn- generation of fashion designers and to McCullough ing enough money to stay in sheep. It is highlight wool’s eco credentials. THE AUSTRALIAN WOOL industry is very gratifying to see the level of interest Wool prices have been volatile in re- waking up from a long slumber. among consumers and among the fashion cent years. Wool is currently selling for

A combination of economic, ecological media coming back to natural fibers and about $5.13 a pound, compared with and consumer trends, in addition to some coming back particularly to wool.” $5.34 a month ago, $6 a year ago and $2.29 misguided marketing strategies, put Langtry feels the uptick has been seen about 10 years ago. Australia’s wool growers, who provide in the last six to nine months and that it “Prices have had a fairly dramatic about 85 percent of the world’s fine me- started on the women’s runways. effect on wool growing,” Langtry said. rino wool, into a downward spiral from “There’s also a bit of resurgence in “From an Australian point of view, from which they have just begun to emerge. the edgier brands and a modern look that ·· 200 million sheep in our paddock a de- Australian Wool Innovation, the market- has emerged in tweed in men’s,” he said. cade ago, last year we dropped down to ing arm of Australian wool growers, ad- “In knitwear, we’ve always been reason- our lowest, which is about 69 million. mittedly abandoned the U.S. market and ably strong, but I’m seeing quite a lot of We’re slowly seeing a bit of a turnaround curtailed promotional initiatives due to that mercerized, more finished type wool with slowly growing confidence and we depressed supply and demand because in knits.” may get up to 71 million to 72 million of a 10-year drought in Australia. The most important reason for the this year, and that would be the first time “We know supply here is still very positive forecast is the growth of the con- we’ve grown in quite some time. The low, but the drought has certainly bro- sumer market in China. thickness of the fiber has trimmed down, ken, and there’s plenty of water and “Due to the advent and emergence of partly due to market needs and partly be- plenty of grass, but there’s not plenty of affluence in China and those folks going cause of environmental conditions. The sheep to eat it or drink it,” said Stuart out and buying their first wool sweater, general interest in more natural fibers McCullough, chief executive officer of we expect that demand to continue to being used in apparel is beneficial to us. AWI. “We are struggling to build sheep rise,” McCullough said. “We see it as numbers up, even though the economics terrifically important to stimulate the of growing wool have returned. We know demand curve there. We have seen all supply is going to remain modest, but de- the profits for wool growers coming Due to the advent and emergence of mand is expected to still be strong.” from China.” Rob Langtry, AWI’s chief strategy and Another major sales initiative is to affluence in China and those folks going marketing officer, said: “The industry has build back business in the U.S. had a rough decade or so. It’s been that “The U.S. is a very important, high- out and buying their first wool sweater, we long since we’ve seen the level of inter- value market to us,” Langtry said. “We est and the quality of interest in the fiber. have not been actively marketing wool ourselves in the U.S. for a decade. We’re expect that demand to continue to rise. now coming back in and developing part- Rob nerships with U.S.-based brands and also — STUART MCCULLOUGH, AUSTRALIAN WOOL INNOVATION Langtry running campaigns such as relaunching the Woolmark Prize. We’re also engag- Most recently, The Woolmark Co. But these are very uncertain economic ing more with premium retailers such launched “Wrapped in Merino,” a social times out there. For us to think about any as Bergdorf ’s. We’ve got a long-term edu- media campaign purposed to create the outlandish increases in our prices would cation process on our hands in the U.S. “world’s longest social scarf.” The cam- be ridiculous. I think we’ll see a very and one of the things that will help is paign, which runs on Facebook and as steady growth in what our farmers get for engaging in social media and building a microsite, aims to connect people in the wool based on a steady increase in communities around natural fiber and social media as they collaboratively de- interest around the world.” around wool. In addition, we’re building sign a giant virtual scarf. Participants After years of low rainfall levels and up our staff resources in the U.S. as part create their own section of the scarf, farmers choosing to utilize their land for of a more assertive, concerted effort on adding their photo and customizing the agricultural crops that may not have had developing attention in the U.S.” scarf design, before sharing it with their as much profit potential but·· proved more Langtry said AWI has been working friends through Facebook, Pinterest and stable, AWI sees supply and demand equally as hard in the marketing side Twitter. At the end of the campaign, the coming back to an equilibrium. as it has in product development. It has scarf will be submitted to RecordSetter “It’s important that we try to encour- seen much interest in its fledgling Wool for inclusion in its list of world records. age growers to stay in the industry,” Lab, which provides trend insights, such The campaign comes as Woolmark Co.’s McCullough added. “We think the mar- as introducing seasonal themes and de- social media community, We Love Wool, keting strategies we have and the way we veloping new yarns. He said, “It has stim- reaches the 100,000-follower milestone. plan to roll them out will be appropriate ulated a lot of young designers’ interest The International Woolmark Prize for those markets and stimulate enough in using wool who might have been using awards outstanding and emerging design- demand to be just slightly greater than acrylic or polyester before.” ers for their creativity in merino wool. supply, and that’s about all you can want.” U.S., EU Critical of China Policy at WTO Forum

infringement levels remain are no figures on the magnitude past two years and indicated the On the export front, Yu said By JOHN ZAROCOSTAS “unacceptably high.” of support provided, and no in- government is making efforts external demand has been slug- Similarly, the EU’s ambas- formation is available on sub- to further stimulate domestic gish, and added the influence GENEVA — The U.S. and sador to the WTO, Angelos sidies and other government demand. Retail sales are ex- of the euro-zone debt crisis the European Union leaned Pangratis, said despite all the assistance provided at the pro- pected to grow 15 percent annu- has been deepening. He also on China in a World Trade reforms, state-owned enterpris- vincial level, which is believed ally, reaching 32 trillion yuan, said the yuan has appreciated Organization forum last week es in China “still tend to benefit to be considerable.” 21 percent since 2005, when over its widespread use of from lower cost of, and better ac- Punke said in recent years reforms of the exchange rate trade-distorting subsidies, its cess to, capital than non-public- China had also increased subsi- kicked in and the cost of labor weak enforcement record of sector enterprises.” Pangratis dies in many agricultural prod- has “shot up.” intellectual-property rights also voiced concerns over “the ucts, “including what appears $2.29T Last year, 25 of China’s 31 and other impediments to lack of transparency” of China’s to be the world’s largest…in the provincial governments raised global competition. trade and investment policies. area of cotton.” RETAIL SALES OF the minimum wage an aver- Michael Punke, U.S. ambas- “Many aspects of China’s Yu Jianhua, China’s assistant CONSUMER GOODS age of 22 percent, and the year sador to the WTO, took China trade and investment regime minister of commerce, told WTO IN CHINA IN 2011. before 30 raised the minimum to task over the dominant role remain complex and opaque, delegates the government has wage an average of 22.8 percent, of government in trying to man- leaving scope for administrative “deepened reform and is open- he said. age trade and its lavish outlay discretion and corruption,” con- ing up” and has “expanded do- or $3.99 trillion at current ex- “Against this backdrop, of subsidies, especially to state- cluded a WTO secretariat report mestic demand and accelerated change, in 2015, he said. In 2011, many Chinese companies, in owned enterprises. on China trade policies compiled economic restructuring.” retail sales of consumer goods particular the export-oriented “China’s subsidies prac- for a two-day review of the coun- In the first quarter of 2012, reached 18.39 trillion yuan, or [ones] along the coastal re- tices are far from trivial,” said try’s trade regime hosted by the China’s economy grew 8.1 per- $2.29 trillion, up 17.1 percent gions, are having a hard time Punke, noting that despite WTO that ended Thursday. cent and inflation dropped to 3.8 on the year before, according to dealing with dwindling orders, some efforts by the authorities On subsidies, the WTO re- percent, he said. Yu said import a report by China circulated to rising costs and difficulty in fi- to improve IPR enforcement, port said, “In many cases there growth has outpaced exports the WTO members. nancing,” Yu said. ROYALTY ON PARADE: The Duchess of Cambridge attended the Order of the Garter ceremony at WWDSTYLE Windsor Castle. PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

MAJE-OR ATTRACTION: Alexa Chung is the latest “It” girl to hook up with Maje. The French contemporary brand revealed today that the

OF BURBERRY PHOTOS COURTESY British television presenter would be the face of its fall advertising campaign, photographed by Glen Luchford. The black-and-white images were shot in the early morning at the Porte des Lilas subway station in Paris and are meant to evoke a Sixties GLEN LUCHFORD PHOTO BY Alexa Chung in the Maje fall campaign.

film heroine. “Elegant yet edgy, her attitude reflects a personality that is both glamorous and rock ’n’ roll,” the brand stated. Maje is hosting a party this evening at the Ritz Paris to celebrate the campaign, due to break in the September issues of major magazines. It previously collaborated with Vanessa Traina, who designed a capsule collection and appeared in several ad campaigns for the brand. In recent seasons, Chung has fronted campaigns for Superga, Pepe Jeans and Vero Moda, among others. — JOELLE DIDERICH

PIN-NING IT: W magazine has a history of fostering new photography talent in the pages of the magazine, and now it will try to do so online. The site has just launched a photography network that will give contributors such as Candice Lake, Craig Arend, Adam Katz Sinding and Phill Taylor the ability to instantaneously upload nearly 100 original images daily. “We wanted to make it as easy as we can for these photographers,” said online director Christina Caldwell. To drive social engagement, a Pinterest “Pin It” icon has been installed, so visitors can post street- style images to their personal inspiration boards. To date, W is the only Condé Nast title to have a Pin It icon on its site. Later this summer, W Done and Done editors will build on this new feature by making select street-style fashion items from LONDON — A host of brands saw off the current season available the city’s inaugural men’s fashion week for purchase online. In some cases, advertising will be sold with wrap parties on Sunday. Edie not only for wmagazine.com Campbell led the pack at Burberry’s but will also appear on the blogs of select photographers. cocktail fete. For more, see page 10. “This will be a huge drive in social engagement for us and for all the photographers,” Caldwell said. — AMY WICKS 10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE enormous black headphones says that the most painful places over his ears and is jabbing the were his eyes, nose, ears, throat WWD.com/eye. air and gently rocking back and and pressure points. eye forth in a heel-toe move. He’s in The decision to get a tattoo a mosh pit of one as he listens to takes an instant, the actual Cypress Hill, who he later says inking usually less than an hour. are “pretty good.” Prices vary on the artist and the On the roof of the MAve Genest level of complication involved. sits in a plastic folding chair and Removal procedures are lifts his chin slightly as if ready imperfect, expensive, painful for a punch. He gently thumps and generally take months, if his seat with the heel of his hand not years. like a heartbeat as he talks. He “I don’t wear [concealer] has the manner of someone except in the ads, and some who’s always aware of the exits fashion shows,” Genest says. in case he needs to make a quick He cites the timing of his getaway. The awkwardness first tattoo with “around when disappears when it is time for the I started living downtown [in photo shoot. Montreal],” when he joined “Comes with having a a group of his friends (they reflection, I guess,” Genest says of now comprise the rest of his natural poise, as he performs Lucifer’s troupe) on the streets. a move referred to in gymnastics He made money as a “bum, as an “inverted Iron Cross” on the a squeegee boy.” Genest’s fire escape and everything falls carnival act involves lying on out of his pockets. a bed of nails and some “flesh-

JENNA GREENE “I got my first tattoo, an outline pulling techniques.” His fellow Rick Genest of a skull and crossbones, when troupe members spit fire and I was 16,” Genest says, pointing swallow swords, among other PHOTO BY to his left shoulder and exposing performance pieces. They a long thick scar down his right perform in English and French. Interview With the Zombie Boy forearm. “I’d always wanted It seems to be the only profession tattoos. I’d see them on the bus or that he actually wants. THERE ARE three topics that last month, and the Web-based desire to have a member of on TV or in movies.” All he will say of future Rick Genest — the 26-year-old October 2011 advertisement he the walking dead representing His knuckles read “EVIL” endeavors with Formichetti Nicola Formichetti muse, Lady shot with Dermablend — before their brand. The Dermablend and “DEAD” — “It’s like, if and Lady Gaga is that they’re Gaga collaborator, entrepreneur becoming its official spokesman deal is the most visible in a you’re dead, you’re evil at the “going back and forth.” Of the and, as of last week, freshly for the next two years — is portfolio of associations he’s same time,” he says — and his Dermablend deal, he shrugs, appointed spokesman nominated for a Lion Award at amassed with his unique skill right forearm reads “THE SAW “It’s cool.” for L’Oréal’s Dermablend the Cannes Lions International set since his arrival on fashion’s IS FAMILY” near the scar, the Genest is not worried by the Professional line more commonly Festival of Creativity that runs radar two years ago. In April, meaning of which he doesn’t notoriously fickle nature of the known as “Zombie Boy” or until Saturday. He is the brand’s Giantto watches released an address. In a 2010 interview fashion industry, whose sudden “Rico the Zombie” — likes to first male spokesmodel. In the advertisement featuring Genest with Canadian magazine acceptance and support could talk about. They are: music; his Dermablend “Go Beyond the with the tag line “Time Waits for Dressed to Kill, Genest alleged just as quickly disappear. aggregation of body-covering Cover” video, which ran under No One.” In May, he appeared that the Montreal police broke “I respect the industry,” he tattoos in an effort to resemble the tag line “How do you judge in editorials for Elle France, his arm after he stole candy qualifies. “I’ve always surrounded a living, walking, rotting corpse; a book?” a clear-skinned Genest Die Presse and Tattoo Savage from a convenience store. myself with artists. I’ve always and Lucifer’s Blasphemous Mad stares at the camera and strips and covered Factice and Slave Formichetti found him loved being around the art Macabre Torture Carnival, his nude to the waist before rubbing magazines. He has a cameo as through Facebook after reading scene and the fashion world and Montreal-based “traveling circus- off concealer to reveal the bones, a combative pirate in Universal the profile, hiring him for the designing sets and props and all freak show.” ligaments, insects and lung-size Studios’ 3-D fantasy-adventure Thierry Mugler 2010 campaign of that. That’s all showmanship, On a bright and cold morning radioactive symbol emblazoned Samurai film “47 Ronin” starring and flying him to Paris for the that’s all art.” during New York Fashion Week in across his skin. The video has Keanu Reeves, set to be released men’s show. Ever the performer, Genest February, Colin Singer, Genest’s over 15 million hits and has in February. This month, Tonner “I love New York…Ever since is currently pursuing DJing acts immigration lawyer-cum-manager spawned endless debates on Doll Co. revealed plans for a I got my passport the world’s just alongside a possible career as (his official title is managing Internet forums, where teens Rico the Zombie Boy collectible kind of opened up,” Genest says, a recording artist. For a person partner of rickgenest.com), lists argue that he was “beautiful doll, to be released for San Diego citing a preference for Spanish who has so wholeheartedly each on his fingers as his client before the makeup” and bemoan Comic-Con. He will attend the culture over French. embraced his own finality, he smokes outside the MAve Hotel the shallow nature of society. convention and sign dolls for fans. “It’s a little too classy,” he says puts few limits on his future. in the Flatiron District, where He has more than 60,000 Twitter Back on the streets of New of Paris. “I like more getting down “Music sounds great, I’d love they are staying. Genest spent the followers, who voice their rabid York, the Zombie Boy is not in the dirt, you know?” to cut an album, but I’ve got to day and the next sitting front row adoration and clamor for his camouflaged by his baseball Over the past decade, Genest learn how to do the kind of music at runway shows for designers “Kill Me” T-shirts and flat-brim hat, studded leather vest and has spent tens of thousands of I like. I’ve got to figure it out,” like Nicholas K, Duckie Brown caps. His personal Web site has a bedazzled Stevie Boi sunglasses dollars on the tattoos, which he Genest says, when questioned and General Idea. Following merchandise section, which also (Genest collaborated with refers to as “[my] project…if I get about life beyond modeling. New York, he traveled to Milan, offers skateboards with his image. the designer on the specs). a couple of weeks off I’ll go get “I’ve got to learn how to do Moscow and Copenhagen for Genest is less a model than Pedestrians on Madison Avenue more. I’ve got a couple of blank stilts,” he perks up. “I want to various fashion weeks and tattoo- a “personality,” lacking the turn to stare at the skull tattooed spots, I’ve got to finish my project. stilt walk. When the fashion festival-related appearances. mutability of the former — his on his face, the innards and It develops, you know, with time.” show is over, I want to go back Genest attended the Cannes career thus far has depended insects and angry words inked He estimates that over 80 to the circus.” International Film Festival on various companies with a on his exposed arms. Genest has percent of his body is inked, and — ALESSANDRA CODINHA

SO IS BURBERRY ready to move Eddie Redmayne, who cohosted the A London Sendoff its men’s show from Milan to party with Bailey, was ever the London? Everyone at the brand’s self-deprecating British gent as cocktail party on Sunday night he talked about suits. at its Brompton Road store in “I do a silly job — and I don’t London — where the young indie usually wear a suit to work. So musician Miles Kane entertained I appreciate the opportunity the crowds — was dying to know. to wear a nice suit. It’s a rare

“Everything is a possibility,” thing,” said the actor and face of OF BURBERRY PHOTOS COURTESY Burberry’s chief creative the Burberry ad campaign, who officer, Christopher Bailey, told was dressed in a herringbone WWD. “We have a wonderful jacket and jeans. opportunity to show in Milan, Around the corner, British GQ but it is also something the editor Dylan Jones was cohosting industry needs to look at, a dinner at the new Bulgari because it is very expensive to Hotel with Calvin Klein’s men’s Eddie Redmayne send over the journalists, the wear designer Italo Zucchelli. Dan buyers and the models. Stevens, Benedict Cumberbatch, Alex “However, it can’t just be James, Tinie Tempah, Patrick Grant on Spencer Hart’s catwalk, one brand moving. It has to be and Sarah Solemani were among Cumberbatch — in a Hart suit — a whole movement. But there the guests. Stevens had nothing admitted that he was moved by is definitely an opportunity, but enthusiasm for Calvin Klein the experience. “I was petrified,” and I get excited about new underwear: “There’s nothing he said. “It’s nothing like doing a opportunities,” Bailey added. like pulling on a new pair of play, when you have lines and a Guests at the party included Calvin Klein boxers. It’s a whole character and a director telling Tali Lennox, Edie Campbell, Sir Elton thigh-genital thing. You’ve gotta you what to do. I was on such a Miles Kane John, Freddie Fox, Dan Stevens, Tamzin try it,” he said in jest. high afterward that I couldn’t Merchant and Sophie Kennedy Clark. Following his appearance stop talking.” — WWD STAFF WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops

NEW RUCCI CEO: Jeffry Aronsson has She joined Queen Elizabeth II and other joined the Ralph Rucci company members of the royal family for the as chief executive officer, WWD has annual Order of the Garter ceremony learned. Aronsson, who runs consulting at Windsor Castle. The ceremony marks and brand management firm The the installation of new knights, and the Aronsson Group, was most recently renewal of oaths by established ones. ceo of Emanuel Ungaro. Aronsson was Kate wore the ivory Alexander McQueen

said to have been brought in to conduct coatdress that she first donned at last ges A m a ceo search, but designer Ralph Rucci year’s Trooping the Color parade, and a i then asked him to take that post at cream Jane Corbett hat. tion his firm. Rucci is said to be having Catching her husband’s eye, Kate A financial problems, and in February was unable to hide a smile as the canceled the Ralph Rucci runway show Duke of Cambridge passed by her in the

at Lincoln Center in favor of private traditional attire for the ceremony, ress Associ showroom appointments for his Chado which includes blue velvet robes and p

Ralph Rucci collection. a black velvet hat with white plumes. Wire/ A p Rucci, who was inducted into the Now also a Knight of the Thistle, William Fashion Walk of Fame in New York was awarded Scotland’s highest honor in October, sells to about seven retail as a personal gift from his grandmother photo by accounts, including Bergdorf Goodman in time for his 30th birthday on The Countess of Wessex, Duchess of Cambridge and Duchess of Cornwall observe their husbands in and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York; Thursday. — CATHERINE TIPPLE the Order of the Garter parade at Windsor Castle. Neiman Marcus around the U.S.; Sanahunt in Kiev, Ukraine; Sauvage in HANDBAG WINNERS: Kenneth Cole was the PUCCI EAST: In line with plans to expand place in order, more than 200 staffers will Kazakhstan; Shinsegae in Seoul, and man of the night at the sixth annual its retail footprint in Southeast Asia, work in the open-floor space. (The New Tsum in Moscow. Independent Handbag Designer Emilio Pucci is opening a freestanding York-based agency has also done work Aronsson previously served as ceo Awards, held Wednesday at the Time boutique in Hong Kong at Ocean Centre for Vera Wang, Sean Jean and Under at Donna Karan International, Marc & Life Building in New York. Cole in Harbour City. The 1,296-square-foot Armour.) Ideeli’s studio operations team Jacobs International and Oscar de accepted the Iconoclast Award at store is Pucci’s second in Hong Kong, will also be moving into a new location la Renta Ltd. It could not be learned the InStyle Magazine and Handbag following the 2008 opening of a venue in later this summer at 1385 Broadway. whether The Aronsson Group, which Designer 101-hosted event, presented Pacific Place. Pucci already operates two Founder Paul Hurley now has 5.5 million has also taken equity positions in firms to him by InStyle’s Hal Rubenstein. stores in Thailand, one in Malaysia and members and works with 3,000 labels. such as Matthew Williamson, Ginny H. “Handbags define not just what you one in Singapore. — LUISA ZARGANI — ROSEMARy FEITELBERG and Casall AB as part of its management carry, but how you carry what you’re consulting arrangements, has made any carrying,” Cole told WWD. “It [the MINKOFF HITS THE EAST END: Rebecca Minkoff NEXT GENERATION: Michael van der Ham, J.W. investment in Rucci. — ARTHUR FRIEDMAN category] has taken on a life of its own. will be popping into Montauk, N.Y., this Anderson and Simone Rocha are among the There are so many unique components, summer. The designer, known for her London-based designers who have won and now, not only does one’s handbag casual chic designs, will open a pop-up sponsorship from the British Fashion reflect their individual sense of style, shop at the Solé East Resort on June 30. Council’s NewGen program for the spring but it defines one’s lifestyle.” The shop will remain open through Sept. 2013 season. im Jenkins t Nine winners were named in eight 4. The 550-square-foot boutique will be The initiative, which is supported categories that ranged from Best situated in the resort’s main floor and will by Topshop, awards the designers with Handbag in Overall Style and Design carry ready-to-wear, handbags, footwear, support to show their collections in photo by to Most Socially Responsible Handbag small leather goods and sunglasses. runway shows, presentations and static to an audience fan favorite. According The collection, which retails from $150 exhibitions during London Fashion Week, to Emily Blumenthal, creator of IHDA and to $795, features items designed for a which for spring 2013 will run from Sept. Handbag Designer 101 founder, there summer beach weekend. The shop will 14 through 18. were more than 1,000 applicants for this house Minkoff ’s spring-summer Desert Van der Ham, Anderson and Rocha year’s awards from countries such as Love collection that includes cocktail are all existing recipients who have Lebanon, Hungary, Poland, Ireland and dresses and bright colored Becky jackets. again won sponsorship to stage runway STOP HERE!!!! Israel. Carlos Falchi presented the award Handbags include those in woven shows for the coming season, while for Best Handbag in Overall Style and leathers, laser cutouts and stripes. Christopher Raeburn, J. JS Lee, Lucas Design to Bita and Rouzita Vahhabaghai. — LISA LOCKWOOD Nascimento, Marques’ Almeida, hat “When I started out there were no designer Nasir Mazhar and knitwear label opportunities like this. Not only do IDEELI’S NEW ADDRESS: Ideeli has locked Sister by Sibling have been awarded they [this talent] have a place to show up office space in the Renzo Piano-designed presentation sponsorship. their work, but they can now get to the New York Times Building. The five- Meanwhile, the labels Palmer// next level and into stores,” Falchi said. year-old online retailer will relocate its Harding, Huishan Zhang, Lim Cooper and Other winners included Krystal headquarters to take over the 45th floor of footwear designer Sophia Webster have all Sokolis, Sheila Harper, Fiona Kempton, 620 Eighth Avenue by the end of August. won sponsorship to exhibit their designs. Marisa Collado, Aimee Kestenberg and Once the architectural firm a+i gets the — NINA JONES Jennifer Lang. — RACHEL STRUGATZ Polo player Alec White, Queen Elizabeth II and Arnaud Bamberger, executive chairman WOOF WOOF: Dana Lorenz of Fenton/Fallon of Cartier U.K. hopes to get a book deal for her beloved long-haired dachshund, Blitz, but first CHANGING HORSES: After 27 years of things first. The 2010 CFDA accessories sponsoring the International Polo award nominee has created a line of event that takes place each year at grommeted leather dog collars and London’s Great Windsor Park, Cartier matching leashes that will be launched has now opted to support a more in November by Barneys New York. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. low-key affair — the Queen’s Cup “This is probably the most fun I’ve had Polo Tournament — which took place in a long time,” Lorenz said, noting it on Sunday at the same venue. Queen was more challenging than designing for Elizabeth II, who has been on a merry- people. “It’s superindustrial design — go-round of Jubilee-related trips and the strength of the collar and leash. It’s a Spaces celebrations, was the spectator of science for sure.” Studded with rhodium honor at the event along with Prince and gold-plated pyramids and domes, COMMERCIAL Philip. At the end of the day, he whisked they resemble Fallon’s human collars REAL ESTATE his wife away in the royal Range Rover and wrap bracelets and carry the same PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS after she handed the cup to Dubai, label. Detachable chains and strands Full service shop to the trade. which triumphed in the final chukka. of pearls drape from some collars, and Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 expanding Guests in the Cartier tent included they all come with two-piece heart Seeking New Positions Kenneth Branagh, Ioan Gruffudd, Katie Melua, charms inscribed “Best Friends” — half Showrooms & Lofts • Director of Sales , , for the person, half for the pooch. Retail • Director of International Sales Dita Von Teese Douglas Booth Olympia BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS • Pattern Maker/Draper Great ’New’ Office Space Avail • Director of Retail Boutiques Campbell, Lily Cooper — formerly known as prices range from $140 to $250. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Lily Allen — and the Olympic gold medal Lorenz was driven to the task by • Associate Designer winner Edwin Moses. “I will root for dog-lover friends and her own desire. Huge Opportunity for Highly Motivated SPACE AVAILABLE IN MIDTOWN NYC Individuals whoever looks the hottest,” said Melua. “Even in New York I couldn’t find 2-room office suite/showroom w abun- Excellent Benefit Package “My fiancé isn’t here with me today, so I something that was not disgusting,” dance of natural light. 525 Salary Commensurate with Experience /$2250/month. Tel: 212-354-0979 or Please contact am allowed to do that.” — LORELEI MARFIL she said. Lorenz visited Dallas for a Email: [email protected] [email protected] wine and cupcake party at Intermix SUMMER KNIGHTS: Speaking of the at NorthPark Center. As for the book, royals, on Monday the Duchess of “Short Dog, Big City,” it’ll be about Cambridge was out of her weekend Blitz’s Park Avenue lifestyle. Said (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] wellies and back in her L.K. Bennett his doting owner, “He has the best nude heels for yet another royal ritual. personality ever.” — HOLLy HABER

w19a011a.indd 11 6/18/12 7:55 PM 06182012195545 12 WWD tuesday, june 19, 2012 WWD.COM Bieber Launches Girlfriend Francis Exits Penney’s Post {Continued from page one} {Continued from page one} consumers to absorb, though Penney’s country-hopping, making stops in Subsequently, at Penney’s annual has adapted by restoring some sales and Norway, France, Italy, Spain, Germany, meeting, Johnson said the retailer altering its pricing communications. England and Mexico, on a promotional would be going “in the wilderness” for “Johnson has made two critical mis- tour for his new album — downplayed about a year as it reinvents in a bid to takes,” said a source. “He went public that idea. capture market share, and acknowl- with what he had to do,” raising Wall “We wanted to make a fragrance for edged the company was going through Street expectations too high and too my female fans — I don’t know what’s tough times. “We are in the middle of soon. “The second mistake is that they going to happen from here, though. At a very important and a very challeng- put the customer on cold turkey [by the moment, I’m not interested in mak- ing year of transformation,” he told the eliminating coupons and sales] and ing a men’s fragrance,” said Bieber, who audience at company headquarters in haven’t found a new customer to replace was set to perform at a private concert Plano, Tex. “It is not easy. It’s been a re- that one. He did too much too soon with- later Monday evening at the Apollo ally hard time for all of us here.” out testing. [Limited Brands Inc. ceo] Theater. Tickets were only available Francis was one of the first key hires Les Wexner used to say, ‘I walked slowly to the first 500 fans who lined up at the Johnson made when he was named so I could run fast.’ Wexner tested and Macy’s Herald Square store Monday Penney’s ceo. Having been credited with tested. This has been like asking a fat morning to purchase a $168 bundle devising Target’s innovative marketing person to lose 100 pounds in a week that included the new fragrance, ancil- campaigns, his joining Penney’s was by going from a steady diet of quarter- lary products — such as Hair Mist and seen as a coup and he helped Johnson pounders to eating kale every day.” Touchable Body Lotion — along with the develop a new logo for Penney’s as “Francis was expected to be instru- new album. On Sunday night, more than well as an upbeat, cheer- mental in recruiting brands 200 fans had camped outside Macy’s, on ful brand message revolv- into the store as the com- 34th Street, to get their hands on the fra- An ad visual for the new scent. ing around the “fair and pany reimagines the depart- grance and the concert tickets. square” price message and ment store experience,” When it comes to writing music, the for $39, 1.7 oz. for $49 and 3.4 oz. for aimed at turning the re- wrote Charles Grom, an pop signer said he finds creative inspi- $59 — will be sold. Ancillary products tailer into America’s favor- analyst at Deutsche Bank, ration after dark. “The nighttime is usu- include the 5-oz. Hair Mist, $20, and ite department store. But in a research note Monday. ally the best time for creativity, because the 6.7-oz. Touchable Body Lotion, $25. Wall Street has been less “Clearly, the announcement my mind wanders, and I’m able to focus The assortment is available at specialty than forgiving of Johnson’s of his leaving the company

more,” he said. “I’m always inspired by and department store retailers, includ- turnaround plan. NO will surprise many, consider- different things that I’ve gone through. ing Macy’s, Sephora, Dillard’s, Belk, “He’s the fall guy,” ing Mr. Francis was on stage Aqui

Over the past couple years, there are Nordstrom and Boscov’s. said retail analyst Walter N in New York City presenting h O

things I want to talk about — even with Bieber, a veritable prince of social Loeb of Francis’ exit. “It J just five weeks ago in con- y B Mariah claiming that she had my baby. I media, drummed up buzz for Girlfriend indicates that J.C. Penney Michael junction with the company’s

wanted to be able to talk about that with with an online contest where fans can needs to stimulate custom- Francis OTO very disappointing [first- my album,” he said, referring to Mariah submit a girlfriend-themed version of ers with more hard-hitting Ph quarter 2012 earnings per Yeater, the woman who falsely accused his new song “Boyfriend.” The maker of advertising and that second-quarter share] release and dividend elimination. Bieber of fathering her child last year. the best video — as deemed by Bieber sales will be very disappointing.” “We also find it somewhat concerning Asked if the introduction of girlfriend — will be flown out to an upcoming con- “Michael Francis was Johnson’s best that this occurs just a few months after Selena Gomez’s first fragrance has in- cert and meet the singer in person. “We hire, but now he’s the sacrificial lamb,” former chief financial officer Michael spired friendly competition between the just picked the winner. There were a said one retail headhunter, who noted Dastugue left the company on April 13, two, he said sheepishly, “Oh yeah.…No, couple of funny ones, and some really that Francis was considered the whiz only to be replaced by Ken Hannah on I don’t know. She’s cool.” OK, but did the talented ones.” kid of marketing at Target. “He’s got May 3. While J.C. Penney has added pop star give Gomez any pointers on the Bieber may have sounded tired all the creative buttons. He is the easi- some talent to its management team of fragrance business? Bieber said, “Yeah, Monday, but throughout the day the pop est one to attack. He turned the image late, the lack of continuity within the I told her how to do it right. I’m just kid- star was excitedly counting down to the of Target around and did a phenomenal C-Suite has to be a concern consider- ding. We don’t really talk about business.” debut of “Believe,” at one point tweeting job. But Target was a marketing success ing the company is only at the outset of As for the business side of beauty, to fans, “It’s so close, can yah taste it?” before it was a product success.” its turnaround effort. Said differently, Bieber said he has not yet met with ex- “Maybe Johnson gave Francis too we’re afraid the environment in Plano ecutives at Arden, but his team from much responsibility,” said another has become ‘Ron’s way or the highway,’ Give Back Brands will remain the same, Girlfriend, Justin source. “He had merchandising, mar- which is never a good culture for a com- said a spokeswoman. The scents will Bieber’s second keting, planning, allocation, product pany trying to find itself.” also continue to have a charitable com- fragrance. development and sourcing. Where did Some recent optimism came from ponent, benefiting Pencils of Promise, he have all that experience? He’s never William Ackman, founder and ceo of as they did under the Give Back Brands done anything other than marketing.” Pershing Square Capital Management business model. “The whole point of the Francis received a $12 million sign- and owner of about 18 percent of fragrance was to give back and add a ing bonus for joining Penney’s, plus a Penney’s shares. In a CNBC interview, charitable component to my fragrance. $1.2 million-a-year base salary and 1 Ackman said that Penney’s same-store That’s why we teamed up with Give million restricted stock units on Nov. sales have likely “hit bottom” and that Back,” said Bieber. 16. It is believed he will have to return the company should “start to see real The Girlfriend fragrance is some of that now that he’s left. progress early next year.” described as a “flirty so- Other industry sources commended He emphasized that the company had phistication” with tops Johnson for making sweeping changes to change the image of its brand and the notes of sparkling at Penney’s, particularly the cleaned- experience in the store before it can at- pear, crisp manda- up approach to product presentation tract the best vendors, but it couldn’t do rin and rich black- across channels. They also agreed that that due to what was an extremely pro- berry; a heart of Penney’s was overly promotional his- motional environment at the retailer. He pink freesia, star NO torically, and had to break the high-low, did, though, indicate that the retailers Aqui

jasmine, apri- N price-cutting addiction. in the first quarter focused primarily on h cot nectar and O However, Penney’s took on too much brand communication and not on price J orange blossom, too soon, they added, noting that it was and that the strategy was being adapted and a drydown drastic to entirely eliminate coupons in the second quarter. of vanilla orchid and hundreds of sales in favor of an un- Ackman called the changes a “diffi- and luminous musk. orthodox blend of everyday low pricing, cult transition,” adding that consumers Eaux de parfum spray monthly values and Friday clearance will start to see change in August when

in three sizes — 1 oz. BOTTLE FRAGRANCE By days. All the changes have been hard for new product starts to hit the sales floors.

the slightly different symbols used on the Diophy bag.” Vuitton Suit Over ‘Hangover II’ Fake Dismissed The judge added that the bag appears on-screen for just a few seconds and isn’t Trade Commission, which recently pompous, disheveled idiot played by co- the main focus of the scene. By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD weighed in on that matter, ruling in favor median Zach Galifianakis, carries luggage Louis Vuitton had originally asked of the luxury goods maker. That judgment, emblazoned with “LVM” and says to his for profits from the film, which grossed A NEW YORK federal judge on Friday which includes an order to block the im- costar: “Careful, that is a Louis Vuitton”— roughly $580 million, and triple damages, dismissed Louis Vuitton’s case against portation, sale and distribution of the of course, butchering the pronunciation of as well as the destruction of all copies of Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. over knockoffs, must still be approved by the the French brand’s name. “The Hangover Part II,” along with promo- the use of counterfeit luggage in the “The U.S. Trade Representative’s office. Judge Carter certainly wasn’t buying tional materials that include the airport Hangover Part II.” But the French luxe house wasn’t as the claim that the bags used in the scene scene with the fake bag. In its complaint, which was filed in lucky this time. caused consumer confusion, a key al- The judge didn’t award any damages. December, Louis Vuitton, a division of Calling Louis Vuitton’s allegations “not legation needed to prove trademark in- “We are deeply disappointed in the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said plausible” or “particularly compelling,” fringement, writing, in his opinion, “Louis court’s decision,” the French company that the movie studio knowingly used fake presiding judge Andrew Carter threw out Vuitton is trying to have it both ways: ar- told WWD. “We remain committed to pro- bags made by Diophy, a group of U.S. and the lawsuit, which claimed that Warner guing that the Diophy bags are so similar tecting our brand, and will remain vigilant Chinese companies peddling knockoffs. Bros. ignored its pleas to not use fake bags as to create consumer confusion but at in our efforts to prevent inappropriate and In 2010, the French brand brought the in the comedy’s airport scene. the same time so obviously dissimilar that misleading use of our trademark for the Diophy case before the U.S. International In that scene, Alan, a kind of lovable, someone watching the film would notice benefit of our customers.”

w19a012b;11.indd 12 6/18/12 8:30 PM 06182012203104 WWDBerlinPreview SECTION II SHIFTING LANDSCAPE Lots of changes are on tap in show venues, as well as the approach to business in a difficult economy, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin gets set for its stage July 4 to 6.

MBFWB tents have moved to Siegessäule, or “Victory Column.” SCENE: EAT, DRINK, SHOP, GALLERY-HOP Ones to Watch SEVEN HIP NEW RETAILERS PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW/SCENE FOR MORE, SEE WWD.com/eye. with smoked Scamorza cheese (about 6 to 14 euros, or $7.50 to $17.50), and the frozen tomato starter melds gazpacho and granita (3 euros, or $3.75). A smooth and not overly sweet demi-tasse of hot chocolate made with water is a revela- tion, and a good replacement for espres- Play It Out so — morning or night (3 euros, or $3.75). There’s also a mini-section of take- Places to eat, drink, shop and gallery-hop between shows. away sweets, offering international Long March Canteen fair trade chocolate, artisanal Swedish

PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY licorice, and of course Bitterveld’s own caded door, wild graffiti, and, currently, blended bars, including Fruchtziege, scaffolding. But inside, the food doesn’t which includes goat milk powder, blood mess around. This sister restaurant to orange essence and a pinch of salt, and dumpling spot Yumcha Heroes offers Peffernuss, which combines walnut nou- some of the same dishes, but adds the gat and Tellicherry peppercorns. — S.S. mix-and-match fun of choosing cold dish- es a la carte — and from a cart. Friendly Bitterveld wait-staff wheel an array of small plates, 3 Lettestrasse, 10437 including succulent seared tuna with red Web: bitterveld.de; [email protected] beets and edamame, honey-glazed spare Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and ribs, silken tofu with thousand-year-old Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m, Thursday to eggs and preserved vegetables and jelly- Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. fish carpaccio. Cold dishes run 5 to 9.50 euros, or about $6 to $12. Warm dishes supplement the cart’s in- stant gratifications — crispy tofu with salt, chili, garlic and Thai basil, grilled baby squid, pork belly with baby asparagus and Peking duck. Hot dishes range from 6 to 15 euros, or about $7.50 to $19. Dumplings are available baked, steamed, or in soup, in a wide variety of fillings — meat, fish, and vegetable (4.50 to 7 euros, or about $6 to $9). Finish the meal with a chocolate Illustrations by Olaf Hajek from “Black Antoinette.” version dressed with cinnamon and va- nilla sauce (5.50 euros, or about $7). BACK BEAT ART & COMMERCE The interior, designed by Ett la Benn Taro Fujita wants to put a new spin on “Black Antoinette,” the second monograph — the team behind many of Berlin’s Japanese cuisine in Berlin. The club by Berlin’s internationally active illustra- best-dressed restaurants — plays with and restaurant owner, who has hot spots tor Olaf Hajek, is a cornucopia of beauties Sino-kitsch, but the open ceilings, fam- in Tokyo and Ibiza, was drawn to Berlin and beasts, flora and fantasy, and multicul- ily-style long tables, industrial lamps for its music. He kept importing DJs tural crossovers and contradictions. and chopstick dispensers keep every- from the German capital to play in his The book also spans the worlds of art thing on track. — S.S. clubs, and they kept asking him why he and commerce, Hajek’s signature “mag- didn’t open a restaurant in Berlin. Ula ical realism” as much in evidence in his Long March Canteen “Rue Aubriot, Berlin was the result — a lounge-y spot advertising and editorial assignments 20 Wrangelstrasse, 10997 (Kreuzberg) French Vogue,” on a quiet neighborhood corner in Mitte for the likes of Montblanc, Universal Tel.: +49-178-88-49-599 by Helmut that blends tastes of Japan and Europe. Music, Design Hotels, the New York Web: longmarchcanteen.com; info@ Newton, 1975. Ula, which means “back” or “behind” Times Book Review, Rolling Stone and longmarchcanteen.com in Japanese, is a bit off the beaten path, Vogue Japan, as in his growing oeuvre Hours: Daily, 6 p.m. to midnight but on any given night, some of Berlin’s for art galleries and collectors. The 144- BODY WORK top turntable talents might be dining page, full-color tome from Berlin pub- Should all the clothes to be seen on the there. Photographs of Japanese tattoo lishing house Gestalten launches July 5 MBFWB runway and Berlin’s multiple art is on display in a downstairs gallery. during Berlin Fashion Week. Bitterveld trade fairs begin to blur one’s vision, two Menu remixes include Wagyu beef As for the title’s Black Antoinettes, shows of monumental nudes by two mas- and foie gras nigiri (18 euros, or $22), ses- Hajek, a frequent visitor to South Africa ters of the genre — Helmut Newton and ame-roasted tuna with wasabi mashed who also had his first gallery show there, Ralph Gibson — can provide an antidote. potatoes and miso-balsamic sauce (21 sees them as “symbols of power and The Museum of Photography is focus- euros, or $26), and a lighter-than-air beauty, and the pride of African culture.” ing on Newton’s first three legendary green tea cheesecake (8 euros, or $10). On the commercial front, Hajek’s publications: “White Women,” “Sleepless Special dishes take advantage of season- projects also include a fabric pattern Nights” and “Big Nudes,” which include al regional specialties, such as spring’s he designed for the Swedish brand many of his most iconic works. In “White white asparagus. Ula also features Minimarket, wallpapers for Vienna’s 25 Women” (1976), Newton used nudity with- Aburi-sushi, a lesser-known preparation Hour Hotel and an animation of his im- in the visual world of fashion. “Sleepless that involves lightly broiling the fish to ages for TV Globo Brazil. Nights” (1978) is again all about women, give it a hybrid raw-cooked texture. “All my commercial work is influenced their bodies and their clothes, and for the Pair them with a wasabi Bloody Mary by my artwork, because I do show my art first time in this exhibition, one can see (10.50 euros, or $13) or the sake-based to clients, prompting ideas,” he noted. three smaller series of images of half- Ula cocktail (11 euros, or $14) or a stiff If there is a split between the worlds, naked models in orthopedic body braces. Japanese Whiskey — Suntory Yamazaki he suggested it has more to do with size “Big Nudes” (1981) with its larger-than- 12Y and Nikka Yoichi 10Y are avail- than style. “Plus, my art is more paint- life Amazons, brought Newton’s naked able (15.50 and 16 euros, respectively, erly and focused on a different composi- vision to a new dimension and has never or about $19 and $20). Several premium tion. In today’s world of illustration, I’m been out of print. sakes are also on offer to match any one of the only people still working as In comparison, Camera Work’s Ralph mood or food. — SUSAN STONE a painter and not digitally,” he added. Gibson solo show encompasses four de- “It’s a question of generation. I wasn’t cades and more than 60 photographs of Ula Berlin educated on the computer. But having the photographer, now 73. On view are 8 Anklamer Strasse, 10115 (Mitte) original work helps me take the step mystic-surrealistic images from “The Tel.: +49-0-30-8937-9570 reservation@ into doing more art.” — MELISSA DRIER BITTER SWEET Somnambulist” series (1970) to the ula-berlin.com, Open daily from 6 p.m. Chocolate purist Holger in’t Veld, author subtle eroticism of another Seventies Black Antoinette, Gestalten Space, of the book “Chocolate Rebels,” which series, “Days at Sea,” to some of his Sophie-Gips-Höfe reveals the ugly side of the global cocoa most recent nudes. “I love photograph- 21 Sophienstrasse, 10178 (Mitte) business, could have been bitter about the ing women and could say that the form Web: gestalten.com closing of his namesake Berlin chocolate of the female body is absolute and per- Hours: Opening July 5, 6 to 9 p.m. shops in 2010. Instead, he got creative. fect,” he once said. — NORMA QUINTO July 5 to Aug. 5: Sunday to Friday, noon His new venture is Bitterveld, a com- to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. bination cafe and shop that offers a les- Helmut Newton Foundation, Museum of son in cocoa culture and crafted cuisine, Photography AT JOURNEY’S END with an accent on fair trade, organic 2 Jebenstrasse, 10623 (Charlottenburg) Finding the Long March Canteen might ingredients and innovation. Salmon is Tel.: +49-30-3186-4856, feel like a trek or even a trick — the dim marinated in chocolate and lime, veal Web: helmutnewton.com Ula Berlin sum spot is somewhat hidden behind its and pasta are matched with apricot and Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 playful exterior, including a faux-barri- fennel. A mint and pea risotto is strewn p.m.; Thursday until 10 p.m. Form follows perfection.

The new CLS Shooting Brake and Joan Smalls captured by Mario Testino. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW Blame’s Sarah Büren and Sonja Hodzode. Ones to Watch

A few fresh faces to look for during Berlin Fashion Week.

ON THE ROAD knit mini shorts redefine HotPants. Yujia Zhai-Petrow designs her Sporty touches like waffle-weave 1913Berlin collection for metropolitan sleeves, crewnecks and sweatshirt-style nomads like herself. The Berlin-based V-inserts were regular features of the designer was born in western China, fall line, relaxed and refined in neutrals on the ancient Silk Road, but it was (taupe, black, gray, tan) punched up with cashmere and creativity that helped orange, purple and violet — intended for weave her career. the on-the-go urbanite. Zhai-Petrow’s home region, For spring, Zhai-Petrow is taking Xianjing, is one of China’s most inspiration from another sort of diverse, home to many ethnicities traveler — a 19th-century Victorian — and cultures. Zhai-Petrow remembers in her studio presentation at MBFWB. being fascinated with the colorful Narrow dresses with long trains will handcrafted clothing and high boots be paired with cropped lightweight but tweaked. For instance, next fall’s FAULT LINES of the area’s tribes, as well as the jackets in intarsia prints, matched sleeveless cowl-necked dress has a top Sarah Büren and Sonja Hodzode, work of her father, an accomplished with oversize bags. Gossamer T-shirts with a soft geometric V-shape that meets designers of Blame, can’t be faulted oil painter, who encouraged her of superfine cashmere meet short a wider waistband, a full (but not too for their witty approach to fashion, creativity. Her love of beauty was double-breasted blazers; colors for full) skirt falling in easy folds below. Or a which garnered them this winter’s invigorated by living and studying in men and women will include antique typical, no-fuss look for going out features Premium Young Designers Award some of the world’s top cities, such as gold, navy, light gray, grass green, a white lace tank top paired with pleated for women’s wear, and a finalist spot Hong Kong and Paris, and refining her rusty pink and black. brown silk pants with a bow sash. in the current Berlin Senate’s “Start skills at New York’s Fashion Institute Zhai-Petrow wants the collection A quote on the wall sets the tone Your Fashion Business” competition. of Technology and London’s Central to embody the spirit of adventure — for their upcoming spring collection: The two met in 2001 in the fashion Saint Martins. Her background journeying from West to East — “The excitement of flirtation lies design program of Trier University includes fine art and fashion. fine-tuned through the lens of in the unexpected.” This translates of Applied Sciences but went their American sportswear. into soft silks and laces teamed with separate ways after their studies. Retail prices for 1913Berlin start at leather and matte surfaces with shine, Hodzode went to Hugo Boss, Marc 150 euros, or about $187, for accessories “but it’s all still simple and fairly Jacobs and Michalsky, with a stop at New like scarves and hats; cashmere T-shirts minimal,” Sinewe commented. York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, and easy tops run 220 to 350 euros ($274 The collection is entirely produced and Büren headed to Sinha-Stanic, to $435), cardigans 380 to 700 euros in Saxony, though Westphal said “when Preen and into fashion trend forecasting. ($474 to $872) and coats 1,200 to 3,000 we produce more, it’s clear we’ll have “We really had to dream for a long euros ($1,500 to $3,740). The company’s to leave Germany. Too many contractors time to have our own label,” said fall collection will hit boutiques are closing down.” Hodzode, somewhat wistfully. They including Paris’ The Space and Berlin’s And expansion is now in even bought fabric during their time Oukan at the end of July and in early Hoogstraat’s game plan. Carried in 20 at Trier in 2003, but they weren’t quite August. — SUSAN STONE German specialty stores that Westphal ready to get started until 2010. Since and Sinewe personally contacted, then, they haven’t looked back, refining HIGH STREET DUO next season will find the label going their edgy feminine looks each season, Like many young designers, Friederike after new contacts at the Premium often going for the ugly-cool aesthetic Westphal and Linda Sinewe turned fair in Berlin. “It’s the next step, and that pops up at times in Prada and their passion into a job — and we’re also in the process of getting an Marni — wild patterns, boxy cuts, hems their dream into a reality — with investor on board, which will mean just this side of dowdy. the founding of their own women’s a bigger atelier and more people Their most recent collection, last wear label, Hoogstraat. The two in the company. We’re in our first fall’s Neon Sparkled Nights, combined 30-year-olds set out on their own in negotiations,” Westphal revealed. versatile ladylike dressing with sexy 2010 after putting in six years in the Even if the second part of Hoogstraat’s details, mixed prints and textures, industry. Their hands-on experience tag line — “Designed in Berlin and and surprised with bits of blazingly Yujia Zhai-Petrow covered everything from the process Made in Germany” — falls to the side, bright embroidery. Their separates of 1913Berlin. of patternmaking to product, trend the first will undoubtedly remain. “We and dresses are designed to be office- research, international production, like the lifestyle here, and every day friendly with potential to thrill after logistics, corporate design, catalogues brings an inspiration, whether it’s hours, for confident career girls with a An assignment for a cashmere brand and ad campaigns, all of which served in a bar, cafe, club or exhibit,” said sense of humor. set her on her current path. “Actually them as they established their business. Westphal. “Last weekend we had the The Blame girl is 25 to 50-plus — cashmere chose me,” she laughed. The duo met in 2008 while working Carnival of Cultures going on right a figure that’s been adjusted due to Developing an affinity for the luxury for a Berlin streetwear label. Westphal outside our window. There are always the line’s popularity with a range of yarn, Zhai-Petrow set up a cashmere was a designer while Sinewe did these incredible little moments in women. Now, Hodzode and Büren consultancy, and has since designed graphics. “Jeans are absolutely not our Berlin.” — M.D. are starting to think about the Blame knits for a range of big-name clients thing, but we discovered we were on the boy, but they lack the manpower at from the mass market to the catwalk. same wavelength,” Westphal recalled. the moment, and estimate that goal is Zhai-Petrow found a home in Added Sinewe, “And it was good Friederike Westphal and about two years away, even though the Germany’s capital, finding an affinity that both of us weren’t doing fashion. I Linda Sinewe of Hoogstraat. less-saturated men’s market might be with Berlin’s combination of the serious can take care of all the other aspects” a smarter choice for these upstarts. and the carefree. Inspired to create related to running a fashion business.” “Women’s wear at the moment is the

her own line, she launched 1913Berlin, Hoogstraat is Dutch for “high street” HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY more difficult thing. That’s why we chose which made its Mercedes-Benz Fashion (Sinewe studied in Holland), but their it. Why do what’s easy?” said Büren. Week Berlin debut last January. use of the word underscores their goal of First, they’re going through the “I found my comfort zone here, but doing “high fashion for the street,” with looking glass for spring. Pulling in it took a long time,” she said. relaxed but design-oriented apparel “Alice in Wonderland” influences, Her range of men’s and women’s that’s wearable — and affordable. Blame’s next collection will feature separates is easy but elegant, made from Aimed at women between 25 and 45, floral-printed silks and sheer cottons Italian and Mongolian yarns, along with Hoogstraat’s silk dresses retail between blocked a bit off-kilter at the seams, silks and delicate chiffons. “I don’t want $212 and $275, jackets are $250 to $440 touched with vintage-look cotton lace. to do museum pieces,” she said of her and skirts run $162 to $188. “We want to Looks are sweet but sophisticated; designs. “[I want] you to wear them.” be in the middle,” Westphal declared. contrasting black velvet ribbon trim The brand’s sexy knits challenge “We have lots of friends that need on collars calls to mind a girlish Alice cashmere’s buttoned-up reputation, and fashion [separates] to wear on the job, headband, but adds dark interest. provide new basics, like flowing mini not just clothes from the verticals. And Colors of rich rust, black as well as capes that could be tossed over a top and they’d rather have [fewer items but one] lemon-lime brocade show up in split jeans or draped over a cocktail dress, that’s special. But that doesn’t mean a skirts and full shorts. A twisted white and unisex cocooning sweater coats hand-beaded dress for 800 euros.” tweed flecked with bright threads that transform from cozy to cool with Hoogstraat’s look is clean, reflecting, suits slim-cut pants and a fitted, the flick of a zip. A bell-sleeve jacket they noted, their northern roots, with no-lapel blazer. Highlights of neon shows a subdued sparkle, while cable- cuts that are neoclassical in spirit, {Continued on page 6} 5)&
30$, #3&"%

#655&3 "*31035
#&3-*/5&.1&-)0' 
o

+VMZ


XXXCSFBEBOECVUUFSDPN QIPUP
CZ

JOHP
SPCJO 6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW

becoming the original members of the ONES TO WATCH Sissi Goetze in her studio. brand’s Berlin chapter. Then it was off {Continued from page 4} to London, where Blechman studied pink accent blouses and dresses, this interior design at Richmond University, season a bit more body-conscious than and fueled his fashion passion working in previous collections, a response to for the agency Gimme 5. feedback from customers and buyers. His taste in clothes soon outgrew But Blame won’t back down from his budget. “I loved people like a love of brights. “There aren’t many Ann Demeulemeester, but it was so German designers who really play with expensive. And I thought, all my friends color,” said Hodzode. “It’s fun for us.” like what I wear, so why not make stuff The duo will present their collection for my friends? With my friends.” Which in the MBFWB studio next month. is what he did. Retail prices for Blame start at 70 euros, In 2008, Sopopular was founded, or $88, for accessories; dresses run 180 the name a nod to Nirvana, or more to 400 euros, or $225 to $500; tops are precisely Kurt Cobain, who two days 100 to 230 euros, or $125 to $287, and before he died had said, “It’s tough to jackets range from 370 to 390 euros, or be so popular.” Blechman caught the $461 to $486. The line is available in quote on an episode of MTV Masters Berlin’s F95, Paderborn, Germany’s and told his best friends, “We have a Moods and Workshop in Turn. A Web name, so let’s do a brand, and that’s shop is expected to launch soon. — S.S. how it started.” Blechman makes no bones about the ART CONNECTION personal content of Sopopular. “I’ve Young designer Malaika Raiss is a prime HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY always had the urge for clothes I’d want example of Germany’s frequent art and to wear myself.” fashion connection. Born in Darmstadt important. And I am excited about our incorporates many features Goetze is Hanging in Sopopular’s Kreuzberg and raised by an artistic family, the egg-shaped shoulder jacket,” she added. still investigating today. offices were plenty of Blechman’s 27-year-old Raiss found her calling at a To round out the picture, scarves, “I work like I’m doing a study. Each “from-me-to-you” looks, from this young age. “My father works in media, my purses and small leather goods will be collection develops out of the last,” collection dubbed Unsung Heroes. grandpa was a painter and my grandma introduced this season. Goetze said. “I like to research till I’ve Batiked gingham shirts are styled with taught me how to sew,” she said. Her knitwear is hand-made in probed the last detail. Maybe that’s also a diminutive collar and placket, and She grew up surrounded by fashion Germany and the ready-to-wear why I do men’s wear,” she suggested. easy cotton pants conversely sport a magazines, always had an interest in art is produced in Poland. “It’s very “With women’s, you’re expected to wide waistband, as does a blocky gray and painting, and at the age of 12, she important for us to have control over the do something new every season. The sweatshirt. A gray jersey crewneck started making her own clothes. production and we need to be as close to field for something new is narrower in shirt with an attached oatmeal crew, its After studying fashion design in this process as possible,” she observed. men’s, especially when, like me, you’re longer, drawstring bottom peeking out Mannheim, Raiss moved to Berlin She explained that her customers concentrating on simpler things.” from under, is a lightened-up version of where she became a junior designer want to know where the clothes come Goetze will show 12 looks from her a popular fall look, while a short-sleeve at Lala Berlin. After four years there, from and how they are made. The third signature collection at the MBFWB black tailored jacket with matching she freelanced for several other Berlin target group varies, from young girls to studio space, and her designs will also shorts lined in gray (for those accent brands, including Sabrina Dehoff, confident, fashion-savvy women who take to the runway July 6 as one of the roll-ups) references “Miami Vice.” until 2010, when she founded her own want pieces they will have for a long time. three designer finalists in the Berlin namesake label. There is also a green aspect to Senate’s “Start Your Fashion Business” Delicate, feminine yet minimal MalaikaRaiss. “All our materials are competition. The collection will also sophistication is the essence of her eco-friendly and we do not use materials be on hand in the Collect Showroom collections. For spring, she’s primarily that are not recyclable,” she said. grouping at the Capsule trade fair in been inspired by Sixties and Seventies The collection also utilizes textiles Berlin, as well as during men’s fashion Hollywood rock ’n’ roll glamour and “exclusively woven and developed in week in Paris. Concrete sales, however, Dennis Hopper’s book “Photographs France for us,” she said. One example are just beginning, with Goetze bagging 1961-1967.” She has made these her is based on an old fabric Raiss had Berlin trend store Voo as her first retail own by translating ripped T-shirt yarn, from her grandmother. door. At current exchange, wholesale usually found in casual streetwear, for MalaikaRaiss is carried by about prices start at about $120 for a shirt, example, into deluxe hand-knit tops. 10 doors in Germany, Taiwan and $150 for pants, $175 for blousons and In contrast to last season’s monotone Japan. Retail prices range from about $200 for other jackets. Production is collection, spring’s palette will be awash 890 euros, or $1,118 for a Swarovski centered in Berlin. in swimming pool blue, palm tree green, embroidered gown; 80 euros, or $100, Asked to describe the kind of man dusty white and light gray. for a silk and viscose shirt and 259 who wears Sissi Goetze, she responded: Texture is also a key element. “Our euros, or $325, for a silk dress. “He’s a mix between Axel Foley of focus is on the texture of the fabrics, The designer has yet to finalize her ‘Beverly Hills Cop’ and Clark Kent.” so that our fabrics are not flat but Berlin presentation venue, which she Pointing to some inspirational photos have a hand,” she noted, pointing to a said will either in the MBFWB studio hanging on her wall, she explained, kaleidoscope palm-tree cotton and silk or off-site. The brand will also show at “There are two poles: cool guys on the summer jacquard, and crinkled leather. Capsule in Paris. — NORMA QUINTO street and then these fastidious, orderly, Then, too, there are early Nineties buttoned-up fellows. And lately I’ve Daniel and “Beverly Hills, 90210” influences in BOYS TO MEN been inspired by old photos of children Blechman of shoulder-free dresses, and sportswear A bottle of red nail polish is not the first [from the Fifties and Sixties], translating Sopopular. looks in silk and viscose. “Back thing one expects to see in the atelier of their classic boys’ clothing proportions cleavage and off-the-shoulder styles are a men’s wear designer. into something for adults.” “Well, I am a girl,” was Sissi It’s almost as if the kids’ photos were Accessories include two varieties Goetze’s response, though on this day, waiting to be found, for from the start, of suspenders, one with silver metal her nails were a light aqua green. But Goetze has had a penchant for cropped, luggage hook clips and another with her stylistic heart and soul are purely high-cut pants and “Leave It to Beaver”- long leather button loops. At current in the male sector. like bombers and blousons. Next spring, exchange, retail prices range from Born in Dresden but raised in she’ll offer lots of short pants — not about $625 to $750 for coats, $625 for Munich after her family emigrated shorts, but pants tailored to the knee, suits, $187 to $250 for trousers, $175 there in 1988, Goetze completed her plus classic English schoolboy caps, to $250 for shirts and $73 to $160 for fashion studies in 2008 at Berlin’s “cutely rounded” lapels, narrow ties, and T-shirts and sweatshirts. University of Applied Sciences longer, somewhat oversize jackets as part “I try to do edgy classics you can (alongside other Berlin up-and-comers of that overgrown schoolboy look. — M.D. wear more than one season and can Hien Le and Issever Bahri’s Derya combine with nearly everything you Issever and Cimen Bachri.) While she’d HOME BOY want,” he stated. Sopopular sells to nine designed much men’s wear during Born in Tel Aviv, Daniel Blechman doors in Germany and another seven her studies, an internship with Bruno moved to Berlin when he was four. “So shops in Holland, Italy, Switzerland, Pieters cinched it. yes, I am a Berliner,” the now 40-year- Austria, China and Korea, plus the “The collection Pieters was old said. His fashion interest also goes brand’s online store. working on had a whole lot of ruffles, back to his childhood years, when his Blechman is joining the MBFWB and I thought, ‘No, no, this just isn’t Russian mom’s style savvy made him the lineup with his first presentation me,’” she recalled. best-dressed kid in elementary school. in the tent studio space — looking She went on to earn a master’s of In his midteens, he got into labels like forward to the editorial exposure — arts degree in men’s wear at Central Gaultier Jr. and then developed his but Sopopular will also be exhibiting Saint Martins, her 2010 graduate eye for street art, culture and style at Seek. “At the end of the day, I don’t Malaika Raiss collection a surgically precise men’s hanging out with his friends. He and need to be famous,” he said. “I need lineup in white cotton shirting that his pals went so far as to import Stussy, people to buy my clothes.” — M.D. shop at desigual.com

Visit us at Bread&Butter Denim Base – Stand D51 | Pitti Uomo Padiglione Casamatta #1 | Who’s next Mr. Brown – Hall 7.3 HONE

TELEP

02/89400400

02/76016020

02/76028055

02/7632081

02/875769 02/794872 02/875769

02/45487375

348/8718448

02/76028055

02/76059200

02/875512

02/76004944 02/546701

02/76014540 02/76004944

02/76006269 02/76006269 02/76006269

02/84961950

02/76013721

VIA VIGEVANO, 18 VIA VIGEVANO,

VIA PONTACCIO, 13 VIA PONTACCIO,

VIA SENATO, 45 VIA SENATO,

VIA COLLETTA, 69 335/7231506

PIAZZA SAN BABILA, 5 VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIA AMEDEI 8

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 10 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 9 02/76025915 VIA DELLA SPIGA, 42 6QEBUF
PO
UI
+VOF
 34 VIA SENATO,

.A.

OFFICIAL SPONSOR 26TH June - 15TH July 2012

SERGIO ROSSI

ROBERTO BOTTICELLI ROBERTO

PRADA VIA ANDREA MAFFEI, 2

ROCCOBAROCCO

MODA & COMPANY

SIMONETTA 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

SIMONETTA 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

pring/Summer 2013 collections.

RICHMOND 11 VIA SENATO,

RICHMOND 11 VIA SENATO,

ROCCOBAROCCO ROCCOBAROCCO

FUZZI VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

ROCCOBAROCCO

DEL CARLO ROBERTO

STREET SCERVINO

PIAZZA SEMPIONE

RODO FIRENZE CORSO MATTEOTTI, 14

1961 SPA PORTS

PLEIN SUD VIA DELLA SPIGA, 42

PIQUADRO

GIORGIO GRATI S.P

SANTONI SANTONI

POLLINI POLLINI

BRAND MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS SHOWROOM BRAND MILAN

PIERANTONIOGASPARI

PIAZZA SEMPIONE

SERGIO ROSSI

PIQUADRO POLLINI PLEIN SUD

PORTS 1961

PRADA

PRECIOUS RICHMOND DENIM UOMO RICHMOND ACCESSORI ROBERTO BOTTICELLI

ROBERTO CAVALLI NEWBORN ROBERTO CAVALLI JUNIOR

ROCCOBAROCCO - RB ROBERTO DEL CARLO ROCCOBAROCCO KIDS

RODO FIRENZE ROCCOBAROCCO UOMO SANTONI

SCEE BY TWIN-SET SCEE BY

SCERVINO STREET

HONE

3021131

02/58310450 02/89127907 02/89127907

02/784290

TELEP 02/76013721

02/76316025 02/798124 02/796385 02/777191 02/76013721 02/796358 02/777191 02/796358

02/76016020

02/8069131

02/72080319 02/5817771 02/76018374

02/33002600 02/76020470

02/3021131

VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA SAN FRANCESCO D’ASSISI, 15 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 27 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA T. SALVINI, 5 SALVINI, VIA T. CORSO VENEZIA, 16 VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA S. ANDREA, 23 VIA SANT’ANDREA, 21 VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA SAVONA, 60 VIA SANT’ANDREA, 18 VIA MALPIGHI, 7

MONTENAPOLEONE VIA VERRI, 10 ANG. VIA

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3

TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL

TER ET BANTINE HARMONT & BLAINE ALBERTO GUARDIANI ALBERTO ICEBERG

HUSKY VIA S. ANDREA, 23 GIULIANA TESO SLOWEAR

FUZZI

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

HUSKY

JOHN RICHMOND

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

LARUSMIANI LARUSMIANI

MODA & COMPANY

JIL SANDER 5 BELTRAMI, VIA LUCA

SLOWEAR SLOWEAR

JO NO FUI

ICEBERG

TOMBOLINI

MODA & COMPANY

HACK HILTON BRAND MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS SHOWROOM BRAND MILAN HARMONT & BLAINE GLANSHIRT HACHE ICEBERG GREY DANIELE ALESSANDRINI HUSKY GIULIANA TESO GUARDIANI SPORT HILTON-VESTIMENTA ICE ICEBERG GOOD MOOD

HUSKY BOYS & GIRLS BOYS HUSKY SOLEIL FEMME GUALTIER JEAN PAUL INCOTEX

335/7231506 JO NO FUI JIL SANDER

JUST CAVALLI

JOHN RICHMOND

LARUSMIANI

HONE

TELEP

02/584111 02/76013721

02/76013721 02/76013721 02/794872 02/76011724 02/796385

02/42473211 02/8312161 02/4225631

02/76013721

02/77711701 0031-841061 02/89075001-2

02/76014904 02/89077112 02/76013721

02/878910 02/86463028 02/7788741

02/8312161

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SAN ROCCO, 17 VIA SAN ROCCO,

VIA SENATO 34 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 1 VIA SENATO, 45 VIA SENATO, VIA STENDHAL, 36 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA F. ARGELATI 1/A CORSO VENEZIA, 16 34 VIA SENATO,

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA, 26 PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA, VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 8 VIA COLA DI RIENZO, VIA SANT’ANDREA, 11

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA LANZA, 4 - ANGOLO FORO VIA LANZA, 4 - ANGOLO VIA GESÙ, 2/A BUONAPARTE BUONAPARTE

VIA F. ARGELATI 1/A

MODA & COMPANY

ALLEGRI VIA STENDHAL, 36

ALVIERO MARTINO 1° CLASSE MARTINO ALVIERO ALBERTO GUARDIANI ALBERTO MODA & COMPANY

ZMD KIDS DIVISION BALLIN VIA SANTO SPIRITO,13

ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G. MARTINI ALVIERO

JVHOP


OFFICIAL SPONSOR

CNMI is promoting and coordinating the calendar of the Milan Showroom openings for the sales of men’s, women’s and children’s S

BOTTICELLI ROBERTO

MARRAS SNC CIRCOLO

ANTONIO FUSCO

LIMELIGHT VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

BORSALINO

CASHMERE AVANT TOI - LIAPULL BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

A.TESTONI

AGNONA

ARTIOLI

BRIONI

STUDIO SRL BALLY

DAL 26 GIUGNO AL 15 LUGLIO 2012 DAL 26 GIUGNO AL 15 LUGLIO

"HHJPSOBUP
BM

(

MODA & COMPANY

BRAND MILAN SHOWROOM ADDRESS SHOWROOM BRAND MILAN

.NORMALUISA ADD JUNIOR ADD

A.TESTONI ALBERTO GUARDIANI AGNONA ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE ALVIERO ALLEGRI

ANTONIO FUSCO AMBRE BABZOE ALVIERO MARTINI 1° CLASSE - L.E.G ALVIERO

ARTIOLI

ANTONIO MARRAS 349-3853086 BALLIN AVANT TOI

BLAUER BALLY BALLY BORSALINO BLUGIRL FOLIES BLUGIRL

BRIONI BOTTICELLI LIMITED 58105200

3021131

02/58105200

02/58310450

02/00611711

02/89127907 02/58105200 02/89127907 02/89127907

02/76018132-43

02/59994311

02/59994311

02/76013721

02/76013721 02/76093715 02/76093440

02/5817771

02/875769

02/875769

02/653544 02/8312161 02/875769 02/58105200 02/4220141 02/58326154 02/4220141 02/4220141 02/76059200

0524/516811

02/76013721 02/89127907

02/422091 02/76080218

02/422091

02/58105200

02/58105200 02/58105200

02/58105200

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA SAN FRANCESCO D’ASSISI, 15 VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA DURINI, 24

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA, 5 RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO, TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA VIA ARGELATI, 22

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

VIA MONTEBELLO, 30 VIA MONTEBELLO, VIA F.ARGELATI, 1/A RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA 02/ VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO, VIA SAVONA, 54 VIA SAVONA, 54 VIA DONIZETTI, 48 VIA SAVONA, 54 VIA GESU’, 9 VIA MORIMONDO, 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SAVONA, 56/A

CORSO VENEZIA, 25

VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3 02/

TOMBOLINI 26 VIA MORIMONDO,

TRU TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI JEANS

ZMD SPA

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

SPW COMPANY SPW

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

ZMD SPA

COMPANY SPW

LIMELIGHT LIMELIGHT

COMPANY SPW

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

CORNELIANI

TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL

SIMONETTA SIMONETTA

ZMD SPA

TRU TRUSSARDI & TRUSSARDI JEANS

SIMONETTA

ZMD SPA

POLLINI POLLINI

MODA & COMPANY

TER ET BANTINE

LIMELIGHT VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

ZMD SPA

ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

ZMD SPA

THERMORE 35 VIA TORTONA,

SIMONETTA SIMONETTA

SISSIROSSI SISSIROSSI

TOMBOLINI TOMBOLINI

ZMD SPA

TOMBOLINI INDUSTRIE SRL

GIVUESSE 7 VIA SALASCO,

VERSACE VIA GESÙ, 12

SLOWEAR SLOWEAR

ZMD SPA

VERSUS VIA GESU’, 12

SVEVO

TARA JARMON TARA

TER ET BANTINE

THERMORE ®

TOMBOLINI

TRAFFIC PEOPLE

TOMBOLINI FLEUR TOMBOLINI DONNA TREND CORNELIANI

TRU TRUSSARDI

TRUSSARDI JEANS

TWIN SET ACCESSORI TWIN - SET

TWIN-SET PRE-COLLEZIONE TWIN SET JEANS

TWIN SET GIRL VERSUS VERSACE COLLECTION SIMONETTA SIMONETTA VERSACE VIKTOR & ROLF VIKTOR

SIMONETTA MINI SIMONETTA SIMONETTA TINY SIMONETTA SIMONETTA RAVIZZA SIMONETTA

SOLLECITI SISTE’S MORE SISSIROSSI

SISTE’S STONE ISLAND SHADOW STONE ISLAND JUNIOR SINEQUANONE

STONE ISLAND SWEET MATILDA SVEVO STUDIO POLLINI

T CONCEPT SWEET MATILDA BABY SWEET MATILDA

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD TAG ELEMENTS TAG ZANONE Z ZEGNA

ZEGNA SPORT

02/86984687

02/76016108 02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/86984687

02/42205540

02/42205540 02/42205540 02/42205540 02/42205540

02/877872

02/76013721 02/76013721 02/58105200

02/89077112

02/42205540 02/5817771 02/76013721 02/42205540 02/47952048 02/76013721

02/47952048 02/76016359 02/5817771 02/76013707 02/76013707 02/54107275 02/8545821 02/422041

02/422041 02/76016020

02/58105200

02/3021131

02/55185801 02/55185801 335/7231506

02/55010457

7JB
(FSPMBNP
.PSPOF

t

.JMBOP

t
"SFB
.JMBOP
.PEB
4IPXSPPN

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23 VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA MANZONI, 21

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA, VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA, VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA, VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA, VIA BRERA, 7

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA 34 VIA SENATO, VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496

VIA TORTONA, 37 VIA TORTONA, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA ARGELATI, 22 PIANO INTERNO 106 2° VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, 26 26 VIA SAN PIETRO ALL’ORTO, VIA SANT’ANDREA, 3

VIA VIVAIO, 11 VIA VIVAIO, VIA SPARTACO, 34 VIA SPARTACO, VIA ARGELATI, 22 VIA SOLFERINO, 9 VIA SOLFERINO, VIA STENDHAL, 47

VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

RIPA DI PORTA TICINESE, 79 RIPA DI PORTA

VIA ERMENEGILDO CANTONI, 3

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO VIA CARLO BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

www.cameramoda.it

ZMD SPA 37 VIA TORTONA,

AVANT TOI - LIAPULL CASHMERE AVANT TOI - LIAPULL BOTTA, 8 VIA CARLO

MILA SCHÖN MASSIMO REBECCHI

MONCLER VIA STENDHAL,47

LES COPAINS

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS

MONCLER GAMME BLEU

ZMD SPA 37 VIA TORTONA,

S ZMD KIDS DIVISION

ZMD SPA

MODA & COMPANY

MODA & COMPANY

MANAS

ZMD SPA

UFM


t
GBY

t
JOGP!DBNFSBNPEBJU
t
TIPXSPPN!DBNFSBNPEBJU

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

LES COPAINS

MASSIMO SFORZA

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

PIANURASTUDIO

ZMD SPA

ZMD SPA

RIVA LORENZO

NANDO MUZI 02/781869 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19

LES COPAINS

SLOWEAR

MILA SCHÖN 11 VIA VIVAIO,

LIMELIGHT

FUZZI FUZZI

LE SILLA

MISSONI MISSONI

PAOLA FRANI

PAOLA FRANI

MANAS MANAS

LES COPAINS LE SILLA

LES COPAINS BLACK LABEL LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS BLUE BLUE LES COPAINS

LES COPAINS WHITE LABEL LES COPAINS LES COPAINS BLUE PRE COLLECTION BLUE LES COPAINS

LES SOEURS

LES ESSENTIELS LIU-JO ACCESSORI LIAPULL CASHMERE LIU-JO COLLECTION

LIU-JO LES PLUMES

LIU-JO JEANS UOMO LIU-JO JEANS CORE MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA PIANO INTERNO 106 2° LIU-JO JEANS FASHION RIVA LORENZO LIU-JO PRE-COLLECTION MAGAZZINI DEL SALE MADEMOISELLE TARA MANAS

MANAS LEA FOSCATI MANAS LEA FOSCATI MISS BLUMARINE MARC JACOBS MEN MILA SCHÖN MASSIMO SFORZA JEAN MISS BLUMARINE

MILA MISSONI MASSIMO REBECCHI MONTEDORO

MONCLER GAMME BLEU MONCLER NANIBON NANDO MUZI

P.F.-PRE P.F.-PRE P.F.-MAIN

PIANURASTUDIO PAUL & SHARK PAUL

02/33601990

02/798124

02/76013721

02/4691916 011/2292811

02/760591

02/550501

02/89152070

02/798345 02/62690172 011/2292811 02/77885911 02/76008166 02/45471404 011/2292811 02/29003448 02/65569311

02/798526 02/76018132-43

02/838441 02/42409440 02/76013721

02/784290

02/76013721 02/2772300 02/5817771

02/76013721 02/76016108

02/550201 O2/422091 02/875769

02/76016020 02/875769

02/76016020 02/76014540

02/76317941

02/76014540

VIALE MONTELLO, 16 VIALE MONTELLO,

VIA T. SALVINI, 5 SALVINI, VIA T.

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA VALPARAISO, 1 VIA VALPARAISO, VIA ENNIO 6/A VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA DONIZETTI, 48

VIA LODOVICO IL MORO, 23 IL MORO, VIA LODOVICO VIALE UMBRIA 37 VIA SPIGA, 1

VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, 2 VIA DELL’ANNUNCIATA, VIA ENNIO 6/A VIA BIGLI, 20 VIA DELLA SPIGA, 7 VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 5 VIA ENNIO 6/A VIA G. FIAMMA, 28/A VIA DURINI, 24

VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/7645671

VIA MARIO FUSETTI, 12 VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO,

VIA VITTORIO VENETO, 30 VIA VITTORIO VENETO, VIA STENDHAL, 34

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA SIRTORI, 22 VIA SIRTORI, VIA PIETRO MASCAGNI, 2 02/54123496 VIA CERESIO, 9 VIA CERESIO,

VIA SENATO, 34 VIA SENATO, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 23

VIA SAVONA, 56/A

VIA SAN PAOLO, 1 VIA SAN PAOLO, VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10

VIA SANTO SPIRITO, 3 VIA SANTO SPIRITO,

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 10

.A.

.A.

CC COLLECTION CORNELIANI

SHOWROOM CASADEI

CORTIGIANI CORTIGIANI VIA DELLA SPIGA, 48

MODA & COMPANY

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

GIORGIO GRATI S.P

GIANVITO ROSSI

PIGNATELLI CARLO

PIGNATELLI CARLO

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

KLEIN COLLECTION CALVIN

CAVALLI CLASS ROBERTO

LE SILLA

PIGNATELLI CARLO

LIMELIGHT LIMELIGHT

GIULIANA TESO

DANIELE ALESSANDRINI

CUCINELLI BRUNELLO

ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE

COSTUME NATIONAL

DIESEL BLACK GOLD

GIORGIO GRATI S.P

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

CORNELIANI CORNELIANI

STAFF INTERNATIONAL SPA

ZAPPIERI MODA DIFFUSIONE

ZMD KIDS DIVISION

SIMONETTA

SIMONETTA 1 VIA SAN PAOLO,

CHURCH’S 16 VIA BORGONUOVO,

CACHAREL

CAR SHOE

DONDUP DONDUP

PACI BRANDS SHOWROOM

CARUSO

CELINE CELINE

CANALI

FUZZI FUZZI

FUZZI VIA DELLA SPIGA, 1

ETRO 6 VIA SPARTACO,

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BRUNELLO C.P. COMPANY COMPANY C.P. BYTE BY GIULIANA TESO BY BYTE

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CALVIN CACHAREL

CAR SHOE CANALI

CARLO PIGNATELLI PRET-A-PORTER PIGNATELLI CARLO CHURCH’S CASADEI CARUSO CARLO PIGNATELLI JOLIE PIGNATELLI CARLO CELINE CARLO PIGNATELLI CERIMONIA PIGNATELLI CARLO CC COLLECTION CORNELIANI CLASS ROBERTO CAVALLI CIVIDINI CORNELIANI COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ITALIANA COMPAGNIA CORTIGIANI

D.EXTERIOR COSTUME NATIONAL COSTUME NATIONAL DIESEL BLACK GOLD

DARLING DANIELE ALESSANDRINI DONDUP

DREAMERS EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS

DSQUARED2

ERMANNO SCERVINO JUNIOR ENIO SILLA FOR LE SILLA

FAY JUNIOR FAY ETRO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

FIUME FENDI KIDS

335/7231506 335/7231506 FUZZI

GIANVITO ROSSI GG DI GIORGIO GRATI

GIORGIO GRATI GIORGIO GRATI 10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW Change in the Air New show venues as well as adjusting the approach to business in a difficult economy are hot topics, as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin gets under way July 4 to 6. By Melissa Drier

AS THE POPULAR saying goes, Berlin is moving into the Postbahnhof off is a city that’s always in the process of Ostbahnhof, adding another postal becoming. That’s more true than ever for railway station to a fair location line- the German capital’s role as a fashion up that already includes a landmark and trade show magnet this season. airport, two power stations, an iconic Last-minute developments on the Fifties café, the former Stasi headquar- local end, ongoing jitters in the euro zone, ters, a sports hall and a five-star hotel mounting financial pressures on big and literally all over town. small players alike and a weather-related As for the commercial landscape, dip in German apparel retail sales are Germany’s consumers remain favorably likely to make their mark on the upcom- inclined, according to the latest GFK ing Berlin Fashion Week. Nonetheless, consumer sentiment survey. In fact, with about 60 runway shows and presen- May found them even more optimistic tations in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion and inclined to buy than in April, and Week Berlin tent and assorted off-site European surveys have the Germans venues, fully booked editions of Bread pegged as the most buoyant on the con- & Butter and Premium, plus eight other tinent, mirroring the nation’s economy. trade fairs running concurrently, July 4 to Yet another recent study by the market- 6 promises to be an action-packed three ing research institute Forsa countered days in Berlin. old stereotypes by revealing the German There’s change in the air, with some consumer as “spontaneous,” especially show organizers, designers and brands when it comes to buying clothing, which cooking up new strategies and initia- leads the list of unplanned purchases. tives to meet domestic as well as inter- Germany’s apparel retailers, on the national challenges. other hand, had strong 2011 figures to When possible, that is. beat. Uncooperative weather lead to The unexpected May announcement slight declines in May sales and most Schumacher will stream its July 5 runway show on its Web site using that Berlin’s new airport would not open likely flat to somewhat-lower sales for a 360-degree camera placed in the front row. in June as planned scratched Panorama, the first half of 2012. Germany’s new, more volume-oriented “The trade won’t be in a particularly ly believe the denim industry is facing a love to show in Berlin because we want platform, from the show list this season. good mood” in Berlin, predicted Jürgen big change, and that there will be a new to show where we come from.” The fair, set to open with 200 exhibitors Dax, director of the German Apparel and different denim wave. And that’s One drawback has been the tent’s at the Airport Expo Center, attempted to Retailers Association, nonetheless what I’m investing in. The future.” seating limit of 600, which Schumacher find temporary quarters, but faced with adding, “but it’s not a catastrophe com- Müller’s investment, in the form of a hopes to virtually solve by means of a having to turn away a significant portion pared to 2010 or 2009.” 29,000 square-foot Tempel of Denim, is 360-degree camera placed in the first of its participants, decided to wait until The biggest problem for the nation’s expected to run about 1 million euros, row. Consumers, buyers and other brand next January to jump into the Berlin retailers is declining traffic in the or more than $1.2 million at current ex- associates will be virtually invited, as fray. Panorama would have significant- stores, he said. change rates. The blue-roofed construc- well as picked up and brought to their ly broadened Berlin’s brand outlook, “Many stores are having a hard time, tion will feature all manner of special virtual seats in the front row where — adding midmarket and wide distribu- but others are not. There are midsized presentations by denim’s “opinion lead- in reality, seated at their computers — tion specialists to the city’s current stores generating a plus, and those that ers” as well as two daily fashion shows they’ll be able to witness the whole show contemporary and streetwear focus. It communicate well with their consum- (for an additional cost of about 500,000 experience, moving their mouse on the would also have spread out the Berlin ers via events to bring them into the euros, or $625,000) to be staged on an al- images to get a full 360-degree view. She Fashion Week map, as the new airport is stores will profit. Still, we’ve noticed in most 400-foot table in the middle of the said retail partners like Engelhorn and a solid 40-minute ride from the city center. the last few years that customers may space that can seat 700. Breuninger plan to do public viewings Trade visitors to Berlin will get to be coming into stores less frequently, “I want to bring everyone to the with their customers. see enough corners and landmarks but they’ve been buying more or more table,” he said. “There are so many re- It’s been a last-minute season for a of the city as it is. In what seems to be expensive items,” Dax reported. “The ligions of denim today: more tailored, lot of smaller, independent and up-and- an ongoing game of musical tents, the average sales check has been higher authentic, heritage, women’s, body con- coming designers, who, less than three MBFWB show and presentation venue than before.” scious…and that’s what we want to dem- weeks before fashion week, were still has been shifted farther down the However, consumers are fed up with onstrate [in the temple]. Deciding which scrambling to find sponsors and funds Strasse des 17. Juni in Tiergarten, now the glut of merchandise, he warned. “So religion, which brand — that’s what’s ex- for their spring presentations. One solu- nestling up against “Golden Else,” as the perhaps we will start seeing a move to- citing for the retailer.” tion: teamwork, as illustrated by Berlin Siegessäule, or Victory Column, is affec- ward smaller sales spaces” where retail- There will also be some MIA’s on the designer brands Mongrels in Common tionately called. ers can create stronger and more pro- MBFWB runways, such as LaLa Berlin. and Liebig, who will be hosting a dual In another venue shift, Capsule filed presentations. Its designer, Leyla Piedayesh, said that, presentation of their spring collections With close to 2,500 brands converg- as her collection gets larger, being fin- on the roof terrace of the recently reno- ing on Berlin for fashion week, some ished by early July has become next to vated Jewish Girls’ School. Capsule has a say it’s petty to harp on those staying impossible. Moreover, acquiring addi- “It’s two collections, two sets of de- new home at away. But with no-shows including tional international clients is now the signers, but one presentation with two Postbahnhof. Levi’s, Lee, Diesel, Replay, RL Denim sales focus, which has her considering little installations that work together,” & Supply, Meltin Pot and Miss Sixty, it’s doing a future show in Paris instead. Mongrels codesigner Livia Ximénez- hard not to react. Mannheim-based Dorothée Carillo explained. “We thought the labels “First of all, I have to respect what Schumacher, on the other hand, said were a good mix, as they fit well together firms decide,” commented Bread & Berlin’s timing has turned out to be but don’t directly compete.” Mongrels is Butter founder Karl-Heinz Müller. He a boon. “We weren’t sure at first if we hoping to make some new sales contacts suggested some brands are no longer in were ready for it, as it’s so early and via Liebig and vice-versa, and moreover the position financially to take part, or you need to know that you can sell finds the nonrunway route a good op- are having generational conflicts. what you’re showing,” she acknowl- portunity to “have more contact with our Some brands, like Levi’s, say they’re edged. “But getting the collection pre- clients, talk to them and personally show concentrating on their own stores and pared, having great photos and creat- them some details.” “more consumer-facing activities,” ing so much emotion, all by such an Big ready-to-wear brand Marc Cain while still others who’ve lost traction early date, has helped the sales team, is also eschewing the runway for its first in Europe are instead concentrating on all our partners, suppliers and most Berlin showing. Selling to 58 countries, new markets like China. importantly, our retail clients.” “we have too many customers, and a “Bread & Butter mirrors the market As for international impact, she noted defilé for 600 guests would be counter- and I regret Levi’s and Diesel are not “the runway photos are online immedi- productive,” commented Norbert Loch, participating,” Müller said. “But I’d rath- ately and reach a wide audience, plus we director of distribution and marketing. er spend time with people who are moti- do invite international clients who love Noting Berlin Fashion Week has become vated than try to convince them. to come to Berlin. The city’s got such a a meeting place for the press, including “A fair,” he went on, “is not here to hype, plus buyers get to see the whole a growing number of international jour- present what happened yesterday, but to Schumacher world here, on the runway, nalists, Marc Cain has instead opted to show what’s going on now and where the at our stores, in KaDeWe. We make a stage an installation in the ballroom of

PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY trends are leading tomorrow. I personal- product we sell all over the world, but we the five-star Hotel de Rome.

12 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW INDEPENDENTS’ DAY Atelier René Talmon L’Armée

Berlin’s retail scene is on a roll, with international chains and brands series of Berlin exclusives, such as multiplying their presence all over town. When Adidas, for example, Carol Christian Poell, MA+, A1923, was looking for a site for its first SLVR store in Europe, the brand chose MarvieLab, Lumen et Umbra, Munoz Vrandecic, Goti, Ugo Cacciatori, Nora Mulackstrasse in the hip Hackesche Markt area. Other new neighbors Renaud Adal, all similar in mind-set on this side of town include Barbour, which recently opened its second and aesthetic to Darkland’s men’s Berlin door on Alte Schönhauser Strasse, and Levi’s, which is moving ranges. Art installations will change into new digs on Rosa Luxemburg Strasse, as is G-Star on Linienstrasse. each season, and right now, there’s a Escada and Boss are both heading back west with new Kurfürstendamm bewitching and giant web of string geo- flagships slated to open in 2013. metrically aligned and suspended from ceiling to wall by Paris based designer At the same time the city is experiencing a new wave of independent and artist Yohan Serfaty. retailing, featuring a creative mix of multibrand, mixed-genre and per- The store’s aural landscape is equal- sonalized concepts. ly critical and integral to the Darklands Here are seven of the city’s freshest shopping destinations. experience. McDougall personally se- lects all the music on his ever-changing and directional playlist. “Being based in Gestalten Berlin, of course techno and electronic music have had a large influence on me during the last five years.” One of his current favorites: Ben Frost, whom he saw play live at the last Transmediale Festival. — NORMA QUINTO

46-52 Heide Strasse, Building 7, 10557 Atelier René Talmon L’Armée (Tiergarten) Nestled among art galleries, the new Web: darklandsberlin.com jewelry shop Atelier René Talmon Hours: Monday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. L‘Armée is a hidden gem. Housed in what served as a butcher shop in GDR Adrett times, the space has nonetheless re- In German, Adrett means “dapper” tained some of the original charm of the and this small but well-curated shop is 1840’s building, including beautifully doing its best to help its customers look gilded molded ceilings. put-together in a modern way. Mathias Kiss designed both this The brands lining the unrestored and René Talmon L’Armée’s first store vintage plaster-work walls are a who’s- in Paris, which are built around atem- who of Berlin and Munich’s finest up- poral and stylistic references such as and-comers in men and women’s wear, dark blue walls, antique wood drawers among them Raphael Hauber, Esther and in one room, classical “Pointe de Perbandt, So Popular, Franzius and Hongrie” parquet flooring. Patrick Mohr. An antique display case “I want people to come in and feel holds accessories, eyewear and jewelry really cozy in my shop,” said the design- Gestalten been attracting all manner of treasure from Funk Optik and Sous Schmuck. er, master goldsmith and Berlin native. Visual culture fans have been flocking seekers since opening its doors last fall. The store’s owners sought out a clas- Completely handcrafted with a ham- to Gestalten in the Sophie-Gips-Höfe A veritable potpourri of objects old and sic, even slightly old-fashioned German mer and his old-fashioned tools, Talmon for a number of reasons. Among them, new, much of the latter is sourced at word for their business, and decided to L’Armée’s jewelry is made primarily the Berlin publishing house’s 400 books Maison & Objet in Paris, as well as in keep the accent on local talent for mer- of oxidized sterling silver mixed with touching on design, art, architecture, Hamburg, Denmark and Dubai, where chandise, as well. 18-karat gold, rubies, opals, and black, photography and other visually related “you can buy objects from all over the “We wanted to give international cus- naturally colored and raw diamonds. themes, from new monographs on fash- world,” she enthused. Some featured tomers something that isn’t available, for Men will find silver crocodile print em- ion designer Henrik Vibskov (by Henrik finds: Egyptian mother-of-pearl boxes, example, in Copenhagen,” said shop co- bossed bracelets and oxidized silver Vibskov), an investigation of brand ex- Indian tooled leather scrapbooks, owner Thorsten Behrendt, who also owns dog-tags, while popular for women is a periences between pop-up and flagship Florentine paper boxes, ostrich eggs Prenzlauerberg’s chic cafe Marietta. plain 18-karat yellow gold ring with the retailers, to a reference book on animat- on sticks, Indian embroidered chests, To welcome and accommodate inscription “amour,” and big silver cuff ed information graphics or a look at the Panama hats from Ecuador and Danish MBFWB and trade fair visitors, Adrett in a hand-embossed crocodile print. most current tattoo culture. ruched velvet throw pillows. will stay open until 10 p.m. during fash- Women’s jewelry starts at $125, But that’s just the start. The loftlike As befits any Wunderkammer, there ion week, and plans special sales and men’s at $185, with individual pieces space is filled with handpicked design are bell jars, protecting saints, scarabs, offers. — SUSAN STONE and special editions running from objects that have graced some of the shells and such, plus feather quill pens $435 to $6,500. — N.Q. Gestalten books’ pages, including sun- or simply striped quills; antlers and 23 Weinbergsweg, 10119 (Prenzlauer Berg) dry monsters, a Doner Berlin card game, horns, some decorated with a pastiche of Tel.: +49-30-473-75127 109 Linienstrasse, 10115 (Mitte) edible lacquer for cake decoration, buttons; old stuffed fawns and fox cubs, Web: adrett-berlin.de Tel.: +49-30-95-59-84-66 Japanese bowls, avant-garde jewelry and and vintage glass bottles, lamps, coffee Hours: Monday to Saturday, Web: renetalmonarmee.com contemporary ceramics. There’s also a canisters, and more. Also in stock: Eva noon to 8 p.m. Hours: Monday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. gallery at the back, where nominees and Kantor’s flora and fauna painted furni- winners of the Tokyo Art Director’s Club ture, Carolin Frydman’s shell jewelry Award could be seen this spring, and il- and creations from other contemporary lustrator Olaf Hajek’s newest monograph artists and designers, including Florian (see Scene) will be launched during Borkenhagen, Georg Polke and Mark Berlin Fashion Week. — MELISSA DRIER Borthwick. — M.D.

21 Sophienstrasse, 10178 (Mitte) 53 Mehringdamm, 10961 (Kreuzberg) Tel.: +49-30-2021-5821 Tel: +49-30-544-87316 Web: gestalten.com/space Web: diewunderkammer.de Hours: Sunday to Friday, noon to 8 Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 8 p.m.

Darklands 4.0 The nomadic, cutting edge men’s shop Wunderkammer has opened its latest version: Darklands “That’s the kind of shop I’d like,” 4.0. Located in a vast, white 7,100 square- thought Berlin photographer Jorinde foot former gallery space, Darklands now Gersina after seeing an exhibition of features a teaser women’s department. the czar’s Wunderkammer, or Cabinet “The new space allowed us the room of Wonders, in Vienna. The wonder to do so. After eight years of carrying didn’t take shape for another 10 years, men’s only, I was again excited about at which point her young adult children buying women’s items,” said owner told her they’d go in on the project. Campbell McDougall. Their below-stairs shop, filled with The formal introduction of wom- Adrett “arts, antiques and little wonders,” has en’s will come this fall, offering a WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012 13

WWD.COM

Fiona Bennett The 1,075-square-foot room is all Berlin’s resident mad-hatter Fiona white. She and her partner Hans- Upcycling Bennett has literally opened up the Joachim Böhme whitewashed assorted notion of a shop atelier. Two specially objects, like the wood chairs with feath- outfitted hatmakers have been in- er-shaped backs or the two life-sized lady stalled in a section of the 65 feet of candelabras, while the custom wood floor windows of her new Potsdamer Strasse by artist Barbara Carven incorporates el- shop to allow spectators see just how ements from Bennett’s previous ateliers, much craft goes into the production such as slices of hat forms or a piece of an of her signature headgear. Bennett’s old work table. retail vision in white is a fitting neigh- It’s the hats that have center stage. bor to the many art galleries that have There are men’s silk-lined Panamas in moved to this avenue-in-flux, not to new woven patterns jutting out from one mention Andreas Murkudis’ concept wall, and ladies’ black creations such store located in the courtyard behind. as a lace turban — lingerie for the head, Bennett suggested. Brad Pitt’s favorite Malcolm cap is on hand, as are women’s Fiona broad-brimmed copper cinnamé straw Bennett hats, plus knitted styles from the Kiss by Fiona Bennett collection, and her spe- cial high-end millinery collection peek- ing out from circular insets in the wall that customers are invited to try on in a special private room. — M.D.

81 Potsdamer Strasse, 10785

(Schöneberg) HILLIG MATTI ADRETT BY AND UPCYCLING JOACHM GERN; L’ARMEE, BENNETT PHOTO BY Tel.: +49-30-280-96-330 Web: fionabennett.com the Austrian label Milch’s pants, dress- tered with paint. Priced around 400 euros, Hours: Monday to Saturday, es and skirts — which are not culottes or $500 at current exchange, “they’re not 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. but rather skirts fashioned out of men’s so cheap,” said Upcycling’s Luise Barsch, pants, the waistband and sometimes pointing to Kroh’s jacket in the window. Upcycling ticket pocket appearing at the hem. “You have to think twice about whether to What began as a temporary pop-up store Another example is the Upcycling quar- buy one or not. But that’s the idea.” has taken root — at least until February, tet’s own brand, Aluc, which creates shirts Added partner Carina Bischof: in its current brick-and-mortar form — and pants out of fabric remnants sourced in “These are pieces to live with for a and much longer as a philosophy and Austria. Then, small items like cell phone long time.” — M.D. practice, the Upcycling team hopes. The covers and change purses are made from store takes its name from the term “up- the production run’s scraps. Or Berlin de- 77 Linienstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) cycling,” which is all about converting signer Daniel Kroh’s one-of-a-kind men’s Web: upcycling-fashion.de leftover textiles, apparel and assorted jackets tailored from old work clothes to Hours: Monday to Saturday, waste into new items of value, such as create looks like a well-shaped jacket splat- 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. 14 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 19, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW

Contact: White Label Adlon Kempinski, 77 Unter den Linden. Tel.: +49-30-240-8761-14 4 p.m.: Sava Nald, Hotel Adlon Kempinski, 77 Unter den Linden. SHOW AND EVENT SCHEDULE 4 p.m.: 20 Years Sven John: Plastic Jewels Vernissage, Dziuba Jewels, 25 Rosa- TUESDAY, JULY 3 Luxemburg-Strasse. 4:30 p.m.: Bread & Butter press conference. 4-7 p.m.: Luxodo Fashion Cocktail, Hotel de 6 p.m.: Bread & Butter opening party, Café Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse. am Neuen See, 2 Lichtensteinallee. 4:30 p.m.: Unrath & Strano, MBFWB. 6 p.m.: Preview show by Grazia, MBFWB. 5 p.m.: Hugo by Hugo Boss, MBFWB, 6 p.m.: Premium Young Designers Award, EisStadion Mitte, 185 Muellerstrasse. F95 Fashion Store at Station-Berlin. 5-8 p.m.: Adidas Originals by Opening 8 p.m.: Turkish designer presentation, Ceremony preview, No. 74, 74 Torstrasse. Voo, 24 Oranienstrasse. 6-9 p.m.: Olaf Hajek Vernissage, Gestalten 8:30 p.m.: ESMOD Berlin, Fashion Shows Space, 21 Sophienstrasse. and Exhibition “Fashioning Fashion 6:30 p.m.: Michael Sontag, MBFWB. — Europäische Moden 1700-1915,” 7 p.m.: Dietrich Emter, studio Deutsches Historisches Museum, 3 Hinter presentation, MBFWB. dem Giesshaus. 7:30 p.m.: Mongrels in Common & Liebig, 8:30 p.m.: Dandy Diary installation/ presentation, MBFWB, Pauly Saal Terrace, Vernissage, Lichtpark, 22-23 11-13 Auguststrasse. Michaelkirchstrasse. 8 p.m.: Intuitive by Cammello Maculato, Jan 8:30-10 p.m.: Escada Summer Cocktail, Kath flagship, 3 Brunnenstrasse. KaDeWe, 21 Tauentzienstrasse. 8 p.m.: A Kind of Guise collaboration launch, 9 p.m.: Projekt Galerie opening party, HBC, Voo, 24 Oranienstrasse. 9 Karl Liebknecht Strasse. 8:30 p.m.: Guido Maria Kretschmer, MBFWB. 10 p.m.: Dandy Diary Fashion Week opening 9 p.m.: Animal Fashion presentation, party, Zirkuszelte, Am Postbahnhof. Pop Up, 25 Gormannstrasse. 10 p.m.: Irina Schrotter, MBFWB. The Tempel of Denim at Bread & Butter. WEDNESDAY, JULY 4 9 a.m.-1 p.m.: MCM Press breakfast, Soho FRIDAY, JULY 6 House, 1 Torstrasse. 10 a.m.: Anja Gockel, MBFWB. 9:30 a.m.-noon: SEEK breakfast. 10:30 a.m.: Marc Philippe Coudeyre, studio 10 a.m.: Escada Sport, MBFWB. presentation MBFWB. SHOW CALENDAR 10:30 a.m.: 1913Berlin by Yujia Zhai- 11:30 a.m.: Blacky Dress, MBFWB. Petrow, studio presentation, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Hannes Kettritz, MBFWB. Following are the runway and trade show Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte 11:30 a.m.: Lena Hoschek, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Lever Couture, Soho House, 1 Torstrasse. schedules for Berlin Fashion Week. Times and 70 Köpenicker Strasse Noon: G-Star Raw, Bread & Butter. 1-3 p.m.: Vogue Salon, Hotel de Rome, locations are accurate as of press time but Hours: July 3-6, Tuesday, 1 p.m.-6 p.m.; 1 p.m.: Rebekka Ruétz, MBFWB. 37 Behrenstrasse. subject to change, and attendees are encouraged Wednesday and Thursday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; 1:30 p.m.: Augustin Teboul, installation, 1:30 p.m.: Malaikaraiss, MBFWB, Villa to confirm all information. Invitations are required Friday, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. MBFWB, Salon Dahlmann, Elisabeth, 4a Invalidenstrasse. for all MBFWB and most off-site shows. Web: showandorder.de 3 Marburger Strasse. 2 p.m.: Ubi Sunt, studio presentation, MBFWB. U-Bahn: U8 to Heinrich-Heine Strasse 2 p.m.: Barre Noire, studio 3 p.m.: Steven Tai, MBFWB. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Contact: Show & Order GmbH presentation, MBFWB. 4 p.m.: Petra Jewelry Cocktail, Kunstwerke, MBFWB events take place at the tent at Tel.: +49-30-7072-6291 3 p.m.: Dimitri, MBFWB. 69 Auguststrasse. Siegessäule on Strasse des 17. Juni unless 3-5 p.m.: Vladimir Karaleev, presentation, 4:30 p.m.: Kilian Kerner, MBFWB. otherwise noted. The Gallery Location TBA. 5 p.m.: EP-Anoui by Eva Poleschinski, Hours: July 4-7, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Cafe Moskau 4-7 p.m.: DottirDottir pop-up shop opening, studio presentation MBFWB. Web: mercedes-benzfashionweek.com 34 Karl-Marx-Allee Bold Room, 68 Torstrasse. 6 p.m.: Perret Schaad, MBFWB. Bus: 100 to Grosser Stern Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, 4:30 p.m.: Designer for Tomorrow, hosted by 6:30 p.m.: Start Your Fashion Business Contact: IMG 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Marc Jacobs, MBFWB. Award Ceremony (nominees: Blaenk, Blame, Tel.: + 49-30-8892-2890 Web: the-gallery-berlin.com 5:30 p.m.: SoPopular, studio Sissi Goetze), Parochialkirche, U-Bahn: U5 to Schillingstrasse presentation, MBFWB. 67 Klosterstrasse. Bread & Butter Berlin Contact: The Gallery 6 p.m.: Wildfox cocktail event, F95 Fashion 7 p.m.: Patrick Mohr, MBFWB, Babylon, Airport Berlin-Tempelhof Tel.: +49-211-4396-356 Store at Station-Berlin. 30 Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse. 5 Platz der Luftbrücke 6-11 p.m.: La Mode. La Mode/Fashion. 7 p.m.: Cointreau Fashion Têtê-à-Têtê Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Bright Visual Art. Music (through July 8), presents Alexis Mabille, Radialsystem, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Stasi Headquarters, House 18 Opening, L’Atelier-Kunst(spiel)raum, 34 33 Holzmarktstrasse. Web: breadandbutter.com 19 Normannenstrasse Grossbeerenstrasse. 8 p.m.: Frida Weyer, MBFWB. U-Bahn: U6 to Platz der Luftbrücke Hours: July 4-6, Thursday and Friday, 10 6:30 p.m.: Dawid Tomaszewski, MBFWB. 8:30 p.m.: Kunsthochschule Berlin Contact: Bread & Butter GmbH a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 7 p.m.: Basler, Hotel de Rome, 37 Weissensee, MBFWB, Gemäldegalerie, Tel.: +49-30-2000-370 Web: brighttradeshow.com Behrenstrasse. Matthaikirchplatz. U-Bahn: U5 to Magdalenenstrasse 7-10 p.m.: Barbour Heritage store opening, 9 p.m.: Michalsky, MBFWB, Tempodrom, Premium Contact: Bright GmbH 39 Alte Schönhauser Strasse. 10 Möckernstrasse. Station-Berlin Tel.: +49-30-551-519-90 7- 10 p.m.: I Love You Magazine & Marshall 9:30 p.m.: Universität der Künste 4-6 Luckenwalder Strasse Headphones party, Radialsystem V, 33 Berlin, MBFWB. Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Greenshowroom Holzmarktstrasse. 10:30 p.m.: Esther Perbandt, Lavera 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Hotel Adlon 8 p.m.: Kaviar Gauche, MBFWB. Showfloor, Kosmos Kino, 131 Karl-Marx-Allee. Web: premiumexhibitions.com 77 Unter den Linden 8:30 p.m.: Hunkemöller Fashion Show “Girls 11 p.m.: Original. Berlin & Bagua Paris U-Bahn: U1 and U2 to Gleisdreieck Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, on Film,” MBFWB, Berliner Ensemble, 1 Fashion Week party, Flamingo, Kleine Bus: 129 to Schöneberger Strasse 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz. Präsidentenstrasse, S-Bahnbögen 157/158. Contact: Premium Exhibitions GmbH Web: green-showroom.net 9:30 p.m.: Mercedes-Benz and Vogue Tel.: +49-30-208-891-330 U-Bahn: U55 to Brandenburger Tor Fashion Night, MBFWB, Restaurant SATURDAY, JULY 7 S-Bahn: S1, S2 and S25 to Brandenburger Tor Borchardt, 47 Französische Strasse. 10 a.m.: Irene Luft, MBFWB. Seek Contact: Greenshowroom 10 p.m.: Felix Fashion Night presenting Friendly 10:30 a.m.: Andy Wolf/Superated, studio Kühlhaus Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855 Fur and Mila Miyahara, Felix, 72 Behrenstrasse. presentation, MBFWB. 3 Luckenwalder Strasse 11:30 a.m.: Adelina Ivan, Patzaikin, Twenty(2) Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Ethical Fashion Show Berlin THURSDAY, JULY 5 Too (Romanian Designers), MBFWB. 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Ewerk Halle C 10 a.m.: Schumacher, MBFWB. 1 p.m.: Minx by Eva Lutz, MBFWB. Web: seekexhibitions.com 43 Wilhelmstrasse 10:30 a.m.: Blame, studio 2 p.m.: Sebastian Ellrich, studio U-Bahn: U1 and U2 to Gleisdreieck Hours: July 4-6; Wednesday and Thursday, presentation, MBFWB. presentation, MBFWB. Bus: 129 to Schöneberger Strasse 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 10:30 a.m.-noon: Achtland, presentation, 3 p.m.: Holy Ghost, MBFWB. Contact: Seek @ Premium Exhibitions GmbH Web: ethicalfashionshowberlin.com Departmentstore Quartier 206, 4:30 p.m.: Bruce Bekrek, Günseli Türkay Zeynep Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511 U-Bahn: U2, U6 to Stadtmitte 71 Friedrichstrasse. Erdogan (Istanbul Next 2012), MBFWB. S-Bahn: S1, S2, S25 to Potsdamer Platz 11:30 a.m.: Rena Lange, MBFWB. 5 p.m.: Sissi Goetze, studio Capsule Contact: Ethical Fashion Show Berlin 1 p.m.: Laurèl, MBFWB. presentation, MBFWB. Postbahnhof Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855 1 p.m.: Benecos and Band Notic 6 p.m.: Miranda Konstantinidou, MBFWB. 8 Strasse der Pariser Kommune Nastic Make-Up Action, ecoShowroom, 8:30 p.m.: Julian Zigerli, “My Daddy Was Hours: July 5-6, Thursday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; White Label 35 Almstadtstrasse. a Military Pilot” presentation, Galerie Cruise Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Max-Schmeling-Halle 1 Falkplatz 1:30 p.m.: Marc Cain, MBFWB, Hotel de & Callas, 187-188 Köpenicker Strasse. Web: capsuleshow.com Hours: July 4-6, Wednesday and Thursday, Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse. 9 p.m.: Fumi Nagasaka movie presentation, S-Bahn: S3, S5, S7, S9, S75 to Ostbahnhof 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 2 p.m.: Issever Bahri, studio Pop Up, 25 Gormannstrasse. Contact: BPMW Web: whitelabelfair.com presentation, MBFWB. 11 p.m.: Gomma Party for Fashion Week, Tel.: 212-206-8310 U-Bahn: U2 to Eberswalder Strasse 3 p.m.: Marcel Ostertag, MBFWB. Flamingo, Kleine Präsidentenstrasse, Show & Order Tram: M1, M10 to Eberswalder Strasse 3:30 p.m.: Green Showroom, MBFWB, Hotel S-Bahnbögen 157/158. Fashion’s first social network powered by its premier publication

AUGUST 21 – 23, 2012 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER JUNIORS | YOUNG CONTEMPORARY | KIDS BETTER TO BRIDGE | ACCESSORIES | CONTEMPORARY WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR & DRESSES | SWIM

REGISTER NOW MAGICONLINE.COM

LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL (855) 807-5855 HUGO HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 HUGO BOSS FASHIONS

SHOP ONLINE HUGOBOSS.COM