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Home , MV Lady Rose, Robson Bight, Stanley Park, The Empress (Hotel)

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1 The Best of & the Canadian Rockies

British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies, which stretch across the provin- cial border into Alberta, are extravagantly scenic and quietly sophisticated. The diversity of landscapes is astounding: You’ll travel from cactus-studded desert to soaring mountaintops and on to wilderness ocean beaches. You can visit tradi- tional Native Canadian villages, thread through market stalls in the largest Chi- nese community outside of Asia, and cheer on cowboys at an old-fashioned rodeo. As for creature comforts, British Columbia and the Rockies are famed for their luxury hotels, rustic guest ranches, quiet inns, and B&Bs. And the food? With Alberta beef, Pacific , and some of the world’s most fertile farm and orchard land, these two provinces champion excellent regional cuisine. Finally, there’s no better place to get outdoors and enjoy yourself: These areas are flush with ski resorts and golf courses, hiking is a near universal passion, and you’ll find no better spot on earth to try your hand at adventure sports like sea kayaking, riding, or scuba diving. This guide is chock-full of recommendations and tips to help you plan and enjoy your trip to western ; the following are some places and experi- ences you won’t want to miss.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Wandering ’s West know good food? The afternoon tea End: Vancouver is one of the most at is world-renowned, cosmopolitan cities in the world, a little stuffy, and very expensive; and wandering the streets, people- if that doesn’t sound like fun to watching, and sipping cappucci- you, we’ll show you other places nos at street cafes can fill an entire where tea is more reasonably priced weekend. Stroll up and a lot less formal. See chapter 4. with its busy boutique-shopping • Ferrying Through the Gulf scene, turnCOPYRIGHTED down cafe-lined Den- Islands: MATERIALThe Gulf Islands, a hud- man Street, then stride into 405- dle of cliff-lined, forested islands hectare (1,000-acre) , between and the a gem of green space with old- British Columbia mainland, can growth cedars, miles of walkways, only be reached via ferry. Hop and the city’s excellent aquarium. from island to island, staying at See chapter 3. excellent country inns and B&Bs; • Taking Tea in : Yeah, it’s peddle the quiet farm roads on a little corny, but it’s also fun— your bike, stopping to visit artists’ and delicious. Tea, scones, clotted studios or to quaff a pint in a cozy cream—who said the British don’t rural pub. The romantic getaway 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 5

THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS 5

you’ve been dreaming of starts and the mighty Columbia River rise in ends right here on these idyllic a verdant, trench-like valley, tow- islands. See chapter 5. ered over by the 3,600m (11,800- • Traveling the Inside Passage: ft.) Canadian Rockies. Nowhere The 15-hour Inside Passage ferry else will you find such a variety of cruise aboard the MV Queen of the championship golf resorts in such North takes you from Vancouver a dramatically beautiful landscape. Island’s Port Hardy along an other- See chapter 12. wise inaccessible coastline north to • Skiing the Canadian Rockies: Prince Rupert, near the southern You can hit all three ski areas in tip of the Alaska Panhandle. Orcas Banff National Park with a one- swim past the ferry, bald eagles price ticket, using the frequent soar overhead, and the dramatic shuttle buses to ferry you and your scenery—a narrow channel of skis from resort to resort. The ski- water between a series of mountain ing is superlative, the scenery islands and the craggy mainland— astounding, and—best of all—you is utterly spectacular. See chapter 9. can stay at Banff’s luxury hotels • Wine Tasting in the Okanagan for a fraction of their astronomical Valley: The Okanagan Valley in summer rates. See chapter 14. central British Columbia has some • Riding Herd at a Guest Ranch: of the most arid climatic condi- The edge of the Great Plains tions in Canada, and with irriga- nudges up to the face of the Cana- tion, grape varietals like merlot, dian Rockies in Alberta, making cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir this some of the most fertile and flourish here. Vineyards line the beautiful ranching country any- edges of huge, glacier-dug lakes where. For more than a century, and clamber up the steep desert- ranches have welcomed guests to valley walls. Taste delicious wines, their rustic lodges and cabins, go for a swim, play some golf, eat at offering trail rides, cattle drives, excellent restaurants, and do it all evening barbecues, and barn again tomorrow. See chapter 11. dances that’ll keep you entertained • Golfing Southeastern British whether you’re a greenhorn or an Columbia: The upper reaches of old hand. See p. 336.

2 The Best Active Vacations • Hiking the West Coast Trail: Hik- • Scuba Diving off Vancouver ing the entire length of the rugged Island: According to no less an 69km (43-mile) West Coast Trail, authority than Jacques Cousteau, from Port Renfrew to on the waters off Vancouver Island Vancouver Island, takes 5 to 7 days, offer some of the best diving in the but it’s truly the hike of a lifetime. world. Nanaimo and Port Hardy This wilderness coastline, edged are popular departure points, with with old-growth forest and lined outfitters ready to drop you into the with cliffs, is utterly spectacular, briny world of the eel, yellow- and can be reached only on foot. edged cadlina, and giant Pacific If you’re not up for it, consider a octopus. See chapters 6 and 7. 11km (7 mile) day trip on the • Kayaking Clayoquot Sound: Pad- more easily accessible stretch just dle a kayak for 4 or 5 days through south of Bamfield. See p. 149. the waters of Clayoquot Sound on 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA

Vancouver Island’s wilderness west six alpine lakes, with minimal coast, from the funky former - portages in between. There are no ing village of Tofino to a natural roads or other signs of civilization hot-springs bath near an ancient beyond the launch point, except Native village. Along the way, you’ll some well-placed cabins, campsites, see thousand-year-old trees and and shelters. The full circuit is a glaciers, whales, and bald eagles. 7-day trip, but the memories will And if the pocketbook allows, you last a lifetime. See p. 244. can stop in at one of two resorts • Heli-Skiing near Golden: Heli- that offer some of the best cuisine copters lift adventurous skiers to in the world. See p. 155. the tops of the Selkirk and Purcell • Salmon from Campbell mountains that rise just west of River: Even though salmon fishing Golden, accessing acres of virgin is not what it once was, Campbell powder far from the lift lines and River is still the “Salmon-Fishing crowds of traditional ski resorts. Capital of the World.” Join a day CMH Heli-Skiing (& 800/661- trip with an outfitter and fish the 0252) offers a variety of holidays, waters of Discovery Passage. Get most based out of its private high- ready to hook the big one! Even if country lodges and reached only your trophy salmon gets away, by helicopter. See p. 283. you’ll see plenty of wildlife: bald • Cross-Country Skiing at Can- eagles, seals, even orcas and por- more: The 1988 Olympic cross- poises. See p. 171. country skiing events were held at • Rafting the Fraser & Thompson Canmore, on the edge of Banff Rivers: This 3-day white-water National Park. The routes at the extravaganza flushes you from the Canmore Nordic Centre (& 403/ slopes of the glaciered Coast Range 678-2400) are now open to the down through shadowy canyons public and offer 70km (43 miles) to the roiling waters of the mighty of world-class skiing. See p. 333. , second in North • Lodge-to-Lodge Trail Riding in America only to the Columbia Banff National Park: See the River in power and size. A number park’s backcountry without getting of outfitters in Williams Lake offer blisters on your feet. Instead, get river options ranging from half-day saddle-sore as you ride horseback thrill rides to multiday trips with on a 3-day excursion, spending the catered camping. See p. 239. nights in remote but comfortable • Canoeing Bowron Lakes Provin- mountain lodges. Warner Guid- cial Park: Every summer, canoeists ing and Outfitting (& 800/661- and kayakers set out to navigate a 8352) provides all meals and lodg- perfect 120km (74-mile) circle of ing, plus oats for Silver. See p. 341.

3 The Best Nature- & Wildlife-Viewing • Tide Pools at Botanical Beach other sea creatures, these potholes near Port Renfrew: Waves have are some of the best places on eroded potholes in the thrust of Vancouver Island to explore the sandstone that juts into the Pacific rich intertidal zone. See p. 121. at Botanical Beach, which remain • Bald Eagles near Victoria: Just a water-filled when the waves ebb. few miles north of Victoria is one of Alive with starfish, sea anemones, the world’s best bald eagle–spotting hermit crabs, and hundreds of sites: Goldstream Provincial Park. 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 7

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Recent counts put the number of platforms and interpretive pro- eagles wintering here at around grams. See p. 250. 4,000. (Jan is the best month for • Songbirds and Waterfowl at viewing, though there are eagles the Columbia River Wetlands: here year-round.) See p. 122. Between Golden and Windermere, • Gray Whales at Pacific Rim the Columbia River flows through National Park: Few sights in a valley filled with fluvial lakes, nature match observing whales in marshes, and streams—perfect the wild. March is the prime view- habitat for hundreds of species, ing time, as the whales migrate including moose and . Pro- north from their winter home off tected as a wildlife refuge, the wet- Mexico. During March, both lands are on the migratory flyway Tofino and Ucluelet celebrate the that links Central America to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; outfit- Arctic; in spring and fall, the water- ters offer whale-watching trips out ways fill with thousands of birds— onto the Pacific. See p. 156. over 270 different species. Out- • Orcas at : From fitters in Golden operate float trips either the northeast shore of Van- through the wetlands. See p. 285. couver Island or a whale-watching • Elk in Banff National Park: You boat out of or won’t need to mount an expedition Port MacNeill, watch orcas (killer to sight elk in Banff: They graze in whales) as they glide through the the city parks and on people’s front in search of lawns. To see these animals in their salmon, and rub their tummies on own habitat, take the Fenlands the pebbly beaches at Robson Trail just west of Banff to Vermil- Bight. See p. 180. lion Lakes, another favorite grazing • Spawning Salmon at Adams area. See chapter 14. River: Every October, the Adams • Black Bears in Waterton Lakes River fills with salmon, returning National Park: There are black to their home water to and bears throughout the Canadian die. While each autumn produces west, but chances are good you’ll a large run of salmon, every fourth spot a bear or two along the entry year (the next are 2006 and 2010), road to Waterton Lakes National an estimated 1.5 to 2 million sock- Park, where the open grasslands of eye salmon struggle upstream to the prairies directly abut the sheer spawn in the Adams River near faces of the Rocky Mountains Squilax. Roderick Haig-Brown (remember, bears are originally Provincial Park has viewing prairie animals). See p. 375.

4 The Best Family-Vacation Experiences • The Beaches near Parksville and • The MV Lady Rose (& 800/663- Qualicum Beach: The sandy 7192): This packet steamer delivers beaches near these towns warm in mail and merchandise to isolated the summer sun, then heat the marine communities along the waters of Georgia Strait when the otherwise inaccessible Alberni tides return. Some of the warmest Inlet, the longest fjord on Vancou- ocean waters in the Pacific North- ver Island’s rugged west coast. west are here, making for good Along the way, you may spot swimming and family vacations. eagles, bears, and porpoises. The See chapter 6. MV Lady Rose is large enough to 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 8

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be stable, yet small enough to make been reached and new/old Fort this daylong journey from Port Calgary is really taking shape: It’s Alberni to Bamfield and back seem gone from a good idea to a great like a real adventure. See p. 148. attraction. But what’s really cool is • The Okanagan Lakes: Sunny that the labor has been volunteer weather, sandy lake beaches, and and that all the work was done miles of clean, clear water: If this using tools and techniques from sounds like the ideal family vaca- the 1880s. Take the kids and give tion, then head to the lake-filled them a lesson in history and vol- Okanagan Valley. Penticton and unteerism! See p. 303. Kelowna have dozens of family- • The Kicking Horse River: One of friendly hotels, watersports rentals, the best white-water rafting trips and lakeside parks and beaches. in the Rockies is on the Kicking Mom and Dad can enjoy the Horse River near Golden. While golf and wineries as well. See it’s the treacherous Class IV rapids chapter 11. that give the river its fame, there • Fort Steele Heritage Town are also stretches gentle enough for (& 250/426-7352): In 1864, the the entire family. Better yet, most frontier community of Fort Steele outfitters run simultaneous trips was a mining boomtown with a on both sections of the river, so population of 4,000. Twenty years part of your brood can run the later, the town was practically rapids while the other enjoys a abandoned, soon becoming a ghost leisurely float through lovely Rocky town. Now a provincial heritage Mountain scenery. See p. 284. site, Fort Steele again bustles with • West Edmonton Mall (& 800/ life: The town has been largely 661-8890): Okay, so it’s a mall. rebuilt, other historic structures But what a mall! Within its 5.2 mil- have been moved in, and daily lion square feet are 800 stores and activities with living-history actors a mammoth entertainment center give this town a real feel of the that contains a complete amuse- Old West. See p. 289. ment park, roller coaster, bungee- • Fort Calgary Historic Park jumping platform, and lake-size (& 403/290-1875): This recon- swimming pool with real sand struction of the Mountie fort on beaches and rolling waves. You can the banks of the Bow River—and also ice skate, watch performing the genesis for the city of Calgary— dolphins, ride a submarine, attend has always been interesting, as vol- movies at 19 theaters—oh, and unteers have been in the process of get your shopping done, too. See rebuilding the original fort. In the p. 316. last couple years, critical mass has

5 The Best Places to Rediscover Native Canadian Culture & History • Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre and culture. Try to visit when the (Duncan; & 877/746-8119): tribe is preparing a traditional North of Victoria, this facility con- salmon bake. See p. 125. tains a theater, carving shed, cere- • Kwagiulth Museum and Cultural monial clan house, restaurant, and Centre (Quadra Island; & 250/ art gallery, all dedicated to preserv- 285-3733): To the Native Indians ing traditional history along the Northwest coast, the 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 9

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potlatch was one of the most need to kayak, sail, or fly in on a important ceremonies, involving floatplane. But once here, you’ll get the reenactment of clan myths and to visit the prehistoric village of ritual gift giving. When Canadian , abandoned hundreds of officials banned the potlatch in the years ago and still shadowed by 1920s, the centuries-old costumes, decaying totem poles. See p. 215. masks, and artifacts of the Kwag- • ’Ksan Historical Village (Hazel- iulth tribe were confiscated and ton; & 877/842-5518): The sent to museums in eastern Canada Gitxsan people have lived for mil- and England. When the items were lennia at the confluence of the repatriated in the early 1990s, the and Bulkley rivers, hunt- tribe built a handsome museum to ing and spearing salmon from the showcase this incredible collection waters. On the site of an ancient of Native art. See p. 175. village near present-day , • Alert Bay (off Vancouver Island): the Gitxsan have built a pre- One of the best-preserved and still Contact replica village, complete vibrant Native villages in western with longhouses and totem poles. Canada, Alert Bay is a short ferry No ordinary tourist gimmick, ride from northern Vancouver the village houses a 4-year carving Island. Totem poles face the waters, school, Native-art gift shop, and cedar-pole longhouses are traditional-dance performance painted with traditional images and space, artists’ studios, restaurant, symbols. The U’Mista Cultural and visitor center. See p. 223. Centre (& 250/974-5403) con- • Secwepemc Museum & Heritage tains a collection of carved masks, Park (Kamloops; & 250/828- baskets, and potlatch ceremonial 9801): This heritage preserve con- objects. See p. 181. tains a Native Secwepemc village • Gwaii Haanas National Park archaeological site from 2,400 years Reserve (Queen Islands): ago, plus recreations of village A UNESCO World Heritage Site structures from five different eras. and a Canadian national park, this It’s not all just history here: The is the ancient homeland of the Shuswap, as the Secwepemc are Haida people. Located on the now called, also perform tradi- storm-lashed Queen Charlottes, it tional songs and dances and sell isn’t easy or cheap to get to: You’ll art objects. See p. 246.

6 The Best Museums & Historic Sites • Museum of Anthropology (Van- coastal British Columbia is the couver; & 604/822-3825): Built focus of this excellent museum. to resemble a traditional long- Visit a frontier main street, view house, this splendid museum on lifelike dioramas of coastal ecosys- the University of British Columbia tems, and gaze at ancient artifacts campus contains one of the finest of the First Nations peoples. Out- collections of Northwest Native side, gaze upward at the impres- art in the world. Step around back sive collection of totem poles. See to visit two traditional longhouses. p. 90. See p. 69. • The Museum at Campbell River • Royal British Columbia Museum (Campbell River; & 250/287- (Victoria; & 888/447-7977): The 3103): The highlight of this human and natural history of regional museum is a multimedia 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 10

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presentation that retells a Native • Barkerville (83km/51 miles east of Indian myth using carved ceremo- ; & 250/994-3332): Once nial masks. Afterwards, explore the the largest city west of and extensive collection of contempo- north of —about rary aboriginal carving, then visit 100,000 people passed through a fur trapper’s cabin and see tools during the 1860s—the gold-rush from a pioneer-era sawmill. See town of Barkerville is one of the p. 170. best-preserved ghost towns in • North Pacific Historic Fishing Canada. Now a provincial park, it Village (Port Edward; & 250/ comes to life in summer, when 628-3538): Salmon canning was costumed “townspeople” go about big business in northern British their frontier way of life amid a Columbia in the early 20th cen- completely restored late-Victorian tury. Located on the waters of pioneer town. See p. 243. Inverness Passage, this isolated • Glenbow Museum (Calgary; cannery built an entire working & 403/268-4100): One of community of 1,200 people— Canada’s finest museums, the complete with homes, churches, Glenbow has fascinating displays and stores—on boardwalks and on the Native and settlement his- piers. Now a national historic site, tory of the Canadian Great Plains, the mothballed factory is open for plus changing art shows and the- tours, and you can even spend a matic exhibitions. The gift shop is night at the old hotel. See p. 211. a good place to find local crafts. • Fort St. James National Historic See p. 303. Site (Vanderhoof; & 250/996- • Bar U Ranch National Historic 7191): In summer, the rebuilt log Site (Longview; & 403/395- Fort St. James trading post hums 2212): A working ranch estab- with activity, as actors play the roles lished in the 1880s, the Bar U pre- of explorers, traders, and craftspeo- serves the artifacts and lifestyles of ple. This open-air museum of fron- Alberta’s cattle-ranching past. This tier life is a replica of the first is still a real ranch: You might catch non-Native structure in British a rodeo one day, a calf branding Columbia, constructed in 1806. the next. See p. 311. See p. 225.

7 The Most Scenic Views • Vancouver from Cloud Nine Eagle’s Eye sits at the top of the (& 604/662-8328): Situated on slopes, 2410m (7,905 feet) above the top floor of the tallest building sea level. Ascend the gondola to in Vancouver, towering 42 floors find eye-popping views of high- above the city, the restaurant/ flying glaciered crags—and excel- lounge Cloud Nine has 360-degree lent cuisine. See p. 287. views that go on forever. See p. 76. • Calgary Tower (& 403/266- • The Canadian Rockies from 7171): At 191m (626 feet), this is Eagle’s Eye Restaurant (& 250/ one landmark that you’ll want to 344-8626): The Kicking Horse get on top of. From the windows of Mountain Resort isn’t just the this revolving watchtower, you’ll see newest skiing area in the Canadian the face of the Rocky Mountains Rockies. This exciting development to the west and the endless prairies also boasts the highest-elevation to the east. If you like the view, stay restaurant in all of Canada. The for dinner or a drink. See p. 302. 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 11

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• Flightseeing over Banff and • Moraine Lake in Banff National Jasper National Parks: Fly over Park: Ten snow-clad peaks tower- some of the most dramatic land- ing more than 3,000m (10,000 scapes in North America. Alpen- feet) rear up dramatically behind glow Aviation (& 888/244-7117) this tiny, eerily green lake. Rent a offers flights along the Continental canoe and paddle to the moun- Divide in the Rockies, culminating tains’ base. See p. 354. with views of the Columbia Ice- • Waterton Lakes from the Lounge fields, the world’s largest nonpolar at the ice cap. See p. 341. (& 403/859-2231): There are • Sulphur Mountain in Banff lots of great views of the Canadian National Park: Ride the gondola Rockies, but perhaps the most sin- up to the top of Sulphur Moun- gular is the view from the Prince tain for tremendous views of the of Wales Hotel, high above Water- cliff-faced mountains that frame ton Lake. With blue-green water Banff. Hike the ridge-top , stretching back between a series of have lunch in the coffee shop, or rugged snowcapped peaks, the view run through an entire roll of film. is at once intimate and primeval. See p. 343. See p. 377.

8 The Most Dramatic Drives • The Sea-to-Sky Highway: Offi- • Hazelton to Hyder, Alaska: This cially Highway 99, this drive is a trip through the backcountry lesson in geology. Starting in West leads to two of the most isolated Vancouver, the amazing route communities in North America. begins at sea level at Highway 37 departs from the Yel- and the Squamish Cliffs—sheer lowhead Highway near Hazelton, rock faces rising hundreds of feet— heading north through forests and then up a narrowing fjord, climb- climbing up to the Coast Range ing up to Whistler, at the crest summit, an alpine wilderness of the rugged, glacier-clad Coast choked with glaciers. The road Mountains. Continue over the then drops precipitously down to mountains and drop onto Lillooet. sea level at Stewart, British Colum- Here, on the dry side of the moun- bia, and its cross-border neighbor, tains, is an arid plateau trenched by Hyder, Alaska. These twin towns the rushing Fraser River. See p. 74. are at the head of the • The Sunshine Coast: Highway Canal, one of the longest fjords in 101 follows the mainland British the world. See p. 205. Columbia coast from West Van- • Williams Lake to Bella Coola: couver, crossing fjords and inlets Start at the ranching town of three times on ferries on its way to Williams Lake, and turn your car Powell River. On the east side rise west toward the looming Coast the soaring peaks of the Coast Mountains. Highway 20 crosses the Mountains, and to the west lap the arid Fraser River plateau, famed waters of the Georgia Strait, with for its traditional cattle ranches, the green bulk of Vancouver Island until reaching the high country rising in the middle distance. From near Anaheim Lake. After edging Powell River, you can cross over to through 1,500m (4,920-ft) Heck- Vancouver Island on the BC Ferries man Pass, the route descends what service to . See chapter 6. the locals simply call “The Hill”: a 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 12

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32km (20-mile) stretch of road that parks): This is one of the world’s drops from the pass to sea level grandest mountain drives. Cruis- with gradients of 18%. The road ing along it is like a trip back to terminates at Bella Coola on the the ice ages. The parkway climbs Pacific, where summer-only ferries past glacier-notched peaks to the depart for Port Hardy on northern Columbia Icefields, a sprawling Vancouver Island. See p. 240. cap of snow, ice, and glacier at the • The Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93 very crest of the Rockies. See through Banff and Jasper national p. 357.

9 The Best Walks & Rambles • Vancouver’s Stanley Park Sea- canyon through limestone cliffs. wall: Stroll, jog, run, blade, bike, The trail winds through tunnels, skate, ride—whatever your favorite passes waterfalls, edges by shaded mode of transport is, use it, but by rock faces, and crosses the chasm all means get out here and explore on footbridges before reaching a this wonderful park. See p. 54. series of iridescent pools, formed • Victoria’s Inner Harbour: Watch by springs that bubble up through the boats and aquatic wildlife come highly colored rock. See p. 340. and go while along a path- • Plain of Six Glaciers Trail in way that winds past manicured Banff National Park: From gardens. The best stretch runs , a trail ram- south from the Inner Harbour near bles along the edge of emerald- the Parliament Buildings, past the green Lake Louise, then climbs up Royal London Wax Museum. See to the base of Victoria Glacier. At p. 92. a rustic teahouse, you can order a • Strathcona Provincial Park: But- cup of tea and scones—each served tle Lake, which lies at the center of up from a wood-fired stove—and Strathcona Provincial Park, is the gaze up at the rumpled face of the hub of several hiking trails that glacier. See p. 354. climb through old-growth forests • Maligne Canyon in Jasper to misty waterfalls and alpine National Park: As the Maligne meadows. Return to the trail head, River cascades from its high moun- doff your hiking shorts, and tain valley to its appointment with skinny-dip in gem-blue Buttle the Athabasca River, it carves a nar- Lake. See p. 177. row, deep chasm in the underlying • Johnston Canyon in Banff limestone. Spanned by six foot- National Park: Just 24km (15 bridges, the canyon is laced with miles) west of Banff, Johnston trails and interpretive sites. See Creek cuts a deep, very narrow p. 362.

10 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Fairmont (Van- restored—are built in a style and couver; & 800/441-1414): Built on a scale reminiscent of the great by the European railway hotels. See p. 56. on the site of two previous Hotel • The Fairmont Empress (Victoria; Vancouvers, this landmark opened & 800/441-1414): Architect Fran- in 1929. The château-style cis Rattenbury’s masterpiece, the exterior, the lobby, and even the Empress has charmed princes (and guest rooms—now thoroughly 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 13

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their princesses), potentates, and details were preserved, and the movie moguls since 1908. If there’s inner workings were modernized one hotel in Canada that represents and brought up to snuff. The result a vision of bygone graciousness is an elegant but still-friendly small and class, this is it. See p. 83. hotel. From the kilted bellman to • Hastings House Country Estate the gargoyles on the walls, this is a (Salt Spring Island; & 800/661- real class act. See p. 317. 9255): This farm matured into a • Rimrock Resort Hotel (Banff; country manor and was then con- & 800/661-1587): Banff is known verted into a luxury inn. The for its scenery and its high prices; manor house is now an acclaimed this is one of the few luxury hotels restaurant; the barn and farmhouse whose rates are actually justified. have been remade into opulent New and architecturally dramatic, suites. You might feel like you’ve it steps nine stories down a steep been transported to an idealized mountain slope. A fantastic marble English estate, if it weren’t for those lobby, great Italian restaurant, and wonderful views of the Pacific. See handsomely appointed bedrooms p. 108. complete the package. See p. 347. • Wickaninnish Inn (Tofino; • Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise & 800/333-4604): Standing stal- (Lake Louise; & 800/441-1414): wart in the forest above the sands First of all, there’s the view: Across of Chesterman Beach, this new log, a tiny gem-green lake rise massive stone, and glass structure boasts cliffs, shrouded in glacial ice. And incredible views over the Pacific then there’s the hotel: Part hunting and extremely comfortable lux- lodge, part palace, the Chateau ury-level guest rooms. The dining is its own community, with sump- room is equally superlative. See tuous boutiques, sports-rental p. 159. facilities, nine dining areas, and • Fairmont Palliser (Calgary; beautifully furnished guest rooms. & 800/441-1414): Calgary’s land- See p. 354. mark historic hotel, the Palliser is • Post Hotel (Lake Louise; & 800/ permeated with good breeding 661-1586): Quietly gracious hos- and high style. The magnificent pitality in a dramatic Canadian lobby looks like an Edwardian gen- Rockies setting is the hallmark of tlemen’s club, and the guest rooms this luxurious lodge. The original are large and luxurious. See p. 304. log-built dining room and bar • Fairmont remain from the 1940s, now joined (Edmonton; & 800/441-1414): by a new hotel wing with extremely When the Canadian Pacific bought comfortable and beautifully fur- and refurbished this landmark nished rooms. The “F” suites are hotel, all of the charming period the most desirable. See p. 355.

11 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Country Inns • West End Guest House (Vancou- • Andersen House Bed & Breakfast ver; & 604/681-2889): This 1906 (Victoria; & 250/388-4565): Your heritage home is filled with an hosts outfit their venerable 1891 impressive collection of Victorian Queen Anne home in only the lat- antiques. Fresh-baked brownies est decor, from raku sculptures to accompany evening turndown carved-wood African masks. Their service, and the staff is thoroughly taste is impeccable—the old place professional. See p. 60. looks great. See p. 83. 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 14

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• The Old Farmhouse B&B (Salt outfitted with pan-Pacific ameni- Spring Island; & 250/537-4113): ties and objects. One of the most The Old Farmhouse is an 1894 stylish B&Bs in western Canada. farmstead with a newly built guest- See p. 144. house. The welcome you’ll get here • Hollyford Guest Cottage (Quali- is as engaging and genuine as you’ll cum Beach; & 877/224-6559): ever receive, and the breakfasts are Often, when B&Bs are described works of art—one of the hosts is in terms of art and antiques, you a former professional chef. See end up with cloying Victoriana p. 108. and uncomfortable beds. Not at • Woodstone Country Inn (Galiano the Hollyford: Its fascinating col- Island; & 888/339-2022): The lections range from early Canadian quintessential small country inn, landscape painting to Mountie Woodstone combines a marvelous paraphernalia. The owners share edge-of-the-forest ambience with their lifelong passion for intrigu- fine folk art and sculpture. The ing objets d’art, and make sure elegant but friendly atmosphere that the guest rooms are modern here is like staying with friends and comfortable. Admiring the who are great cooks and who have antiques sure beats sleeping in great taste. See p. 113. one. See p. 145. • Oceanwood Country Inn (Mayne • The Cedars, A Garden Inn Island; & 250/539-5074): Over- (Kelowna; & 800/951-0769): A looking Navy Channel, this inn dream of a quaint English cottage, offers top-notch lodgings and fine the Cedars is a handsome Arts and dining in one of the most extrava- Crafts–style home in a quiet gantly scenic locations on the west neighborhood, just a block from coast. Admirably, the inn main- ’s beaches. The inn tains an array of prices that range has been beautifully restored and from affordable and cozy garden- thoughtfully decorated to maintain view rooms to luxury-level suites its vintage charm, but updated to that open onto hot-tub decks and provide all the facilities you’d hundred-mile views. See p. 115. expect at a fine hotel. See p. 269. • Melville Grant Inn (Gabriola • Otella’s, A Wine Country Inn Island; & 866/247-5444): This (Kelowna; & 888/858-8596): inn sits in the middle of an island High in the hills above Kelowna, meadow, with views onto Georgia Otella’s is a discretely elegant small Strait and the Gulf Islands. The B&B that focuses on fine art, fine perfect spot for a romantic get- furniture, and restrained good taste. away, the rooms are opulent and Food and wine lovers take note: indulgently comfortable, a perfect Your hosts are very knowledgeable counterpoint to the wild rocky about the local wine and restau- bluffs, forests, and beaches just rant scene, and your breakfasts outside your door. See p. 141. here, prepared by the chef-owner, • Bahari B&B (Qualicum Beach; will be the perfect start to a day & 877/752-9278): This magnifi- seeking sun and fine wine in the cent modern home is seriously Okanagan. See p. 270. Pacific Rim: The spectacular art • Mulvehill Creek Wilderness Inn and architecture of Bahari is half and Bed & Breakfast (Revelstoke; Asian, half contemporary North & 877/837-8649): Equidistant American. The rooms are extreme- to a waterfall and Arrow Lake, this ly comfortable and beautifully 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 15

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remote inn in the forest has every- decorated by one of Edmonton’s thing going for it: nicely decorated top interior designers. See p. 319. rooms with locally made pine fur- • Thea’s House (Banff; & 403/762- niture, a beautiful lounge with fire- 2499): A vision of stone, pine, and place, decks to observe the hens and antique carpets, Thea’s is a newly the garden (each of which does its built bed-and-breakfast just 5 min- bit for breakfast), and gracious utes from downtown Banff. “Ele- hosts who exemplify Swiss hospital- gant Alpine” is Thea’s style, a cross ity. Swimming, boating, fishing— between a log lodge and a vision it’s all here. See p. 277. out of Architectural Digest. Perfect • Union Bank Inn (Edmonton; for a romantic getaway. See p. 348. & 780/423-3600): Not quite a • Mountain Home Bed & Break- B&B, not quite a hotel, the fast (Banff; & 403/762-3889): All absolutely charming Union Bank the comforts of home, plus com- Inn is something in between. modious rooms and thoughtful Right downtown, this marble- hospitality. There are bigger and faced 1910 bank sat vacant for fancier places, but this is one of many years before being redevel- the best all-in-one B&B packages oped as an inn and restaurant. in the Rockies—and it’s just steps Each bedroom was individually from downtown Banff. See p. 349.

12 The Best Lodges, Wilderness Retreats & Log-Cabin Resorts • Tigh-Na-Mara Resort Hotel the friendly and knowledgeable (Parksville; & 800/663-7373): welcome of hosts ready to help you Comfortably rustic log cabins in a explore the untamed woodlands forest at beach’s edge: Tigh-Na- along the Nisga’a River. See p. 222. Mara has been welcoming families • Buffalo Mountain Lodge (Banff; for decades, and the new luxury & 800/661-1367): Rustic charm log suites are just right for roman- meets upscale comfort on the Tun- tic getaways. See p. 146. nel Mountain bluff behind Banff. • Strathcona Park Lodge (Strath- Buffalo Mountain Lodge is cen- cona Provincial Park; & 250/286- tered on a large, handsome log 3122): A summer camp for the lodge building with an intimate whole family is what you’ll find at fireplace-dominated bar and ele- Strathcona Park Lodge, with rustic gant dining room. The woodsy, lakeside cabins and guided activi- holiday-card-perfect atmosphere ties that range from sea kayaking extends to the guest rooms, with and fishing to rock climbing and fireplaces, slate-tiled bathrooms, mountaineering. See p. 178. and balconies overlooking the • Miles Inn on the T’Seax (New forests. Definitely worth the Aiyansh; & 250/633-2636): In splurge. See p. 346. the north, when you get to the • Deer Lodge (Lake Louise; & 800/ end of the road and come face-to- 661-1595): There are grander and face with the wilderness, it’s a more famous places to stay at Lake comfort and wonder to find this Louise, but this lodge has charm marvelous backcountry lodge. and atmosphere to spare without Miles Inn combines sophisticated the frantic pace of the nearby lodging, First Nation artwork, and Chateau. See p. 354. 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 16

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• Tekarra Lodge (Jasper; & 888/ Forget the wildly overpriced rooms 962-2522): Quaint little cabins in Jasper Townsite and stay here, 1 ring a central lodge building at this just .5km ( ⁄4 mile) outside the well-loved getaway. The cabins are park gates. Lovely new cabins plus atmospherically rustic; best of all, a handsome older lodge with a you’re a mile distant from Jasper’s good restaurant make this an in- busy town center. See p. 366. the-know favorite. See p. 367. • Becker’s Chalets (Jasper; & 780/ • The Emerald Lake Lodge (Yoho 852-3779): These very attractive National Park; & 800/663-6336): new cabins are set right along the Location, location, location: Sump- Athabasca River. Some units are as tuous lakeside cabins at the base of large as houses. Jasper’s best restau- the Continental Divide make this rant is here as well. See p. 365. a longtime favorite family-vacation • Overlander Mountain Lodge spot. See p. 372. (Jasper East; & 780/866-2330):

13 The Best Restaurants for Northwest Regional Cuisine See “A Taste of British Columbia & the at the epicenter of the fast- Canadian Rockies,” in the appendix, growing Okanagan wine district, for more information on the style of Fresco brings together fresh local cuisine unique to this region. ingredients and sophisticated prep- • Lumière Tasting Bar (Vancouver; arations in a classy but casual & 604/739-8185): From its early dining room. The chef/owner days, Lumière has been in the run- has cooked in the top restaurants in ning for best restaurant in Van- Canada: He came to Kelowna to couver. You won’t be disappointed open his first solo effort. See p. 272. by the French-influenced Pacific • All Seasons Café (Nelson; & 250/ Rim cuisine here. See p. 66. 352-0101): Innovative prepara- • The Blue Crab Bar and Grill tions and rich, hearty flavors are (Victoria; & 250/480-1999): You the hallmarks of the cuisine at this might think that the food would superlative restaurant in a down- have a hard time competing with town Nelson heritage home. Food the view at this restaurant in the this stylish and up-to-date would Coast Hotel, but you’d be wrong. pass muster anywhere; to find it in The creative chef serves up the Nelson is astonishing. See p. 295. freshest seafood, the presentation • Belvedere (Calgary; & 403/265- is beautiful, and the dishes are out- 9595): The moody, noirish atmos- standing. See p. 86. phere of this elegant fine-dining • Sooke Harbour House (Sooke; room lights up when the food & 250/642-3421): This small arrives: Easily one of western country inn has one of the most Canada’s top restaurants, Belvedere noted restaurants in all of Canada. offers an inventive dining experi- Fresh regional cuisine is the spe- ence focused on Pan-Canadian cialty, with an emphasis on local ingredients and impeccable French- seafood. Views over the Strait of by-way-of-Tokyo technique. See Juan de Fuca to Washington’s p. 307. mighty Olympic Mountains are • River Café (Calgary; & 403/261- spectacular. See p. 120. 7670): You’ll walk through a quiet, • Fresco (Kelowna; & 250/868- tree-filled park on an island in the 8805): Another exciting restaurant Bow River to reach this bustling 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 17

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place. At the restaurant’s center, an soaring, two-story dining room immense wood-fired oven and that’s at once rustic and classy, the grill produce smoky grilled meats Maple Leaf serves up Banff’s most and vegetables, all organically sophisticated mountain cuisine. grown and freshly harvested. On The menu focuses on regional warm evenings, picnickers loll in ingredients, fresh preparations, and the grassy shade. See p. 308. a friendly unstuffy welcome that • Brava Bistro (Calgary; & 403/ lets you relax into having a great 228-1854): A broad menu with time with inventive, delicious food. lots of options for snacks or full- See p. 351. on meals makes this a great choice • Saltlik (Banff; & 403/760-2467): for casual diners. Located in Cal- At first, this high-design steel, con- gary’s hottest neighborhood, Brava crete, and glass structure seems out features Alberta beef and game of place in alpine Banff. But this dressed in exciting sauces and pre- contemporary-styled restaurant is sented with dazzling architectural very much in place with its menu, élan. See p. 310. featuring an excellent selection of • Hardware Grill (Edmonton; Alberta meats, sear-cooked at a & 780/423-0969): Although blazing 1,200 degrees. See p. 351. located in one of Edmonton’s first • Sinclair’s (Canmore; & 403/678- hardware stores, there’s nothing 5370): Right downtown in Can- antique about the food at the more, Sinclair’s has some of the Hardware Grill. A very broad selec- finest and most vibrantly flavored tion of inventive appetizers makes food in the Canadian Rockies. The it fun to snack your way through menu reads like an adventure dinner. See p. 320. novel: Exotic fruits and berries meet • Maple Leaf Grille & Spirits and wed homegrown produce and (Banff; & 403/760-7680): In a meats. See p. 338.

14 The Best Festivals & Special Events • Vancouver’s Three F Festivals: takes place over English Bay in Van- The Folk, the Fringe, and the Film couver. Three of the world’s leading are the three F’s in question. The fireworks manufacturers are invited Folk Fest brings folk and world- to represent their countries in com- beat music to a waterfront stage in petition against one another, setting Jericho Park. The setting is gor- their best displays to music. On the geous, the music great, and the fourth night, all three companies crowd something else. Far more launch their finales. See p. 49. urban is the Fringe, a festival of • Market in the Park (Salt Spring new and original plays that takes Island): The little village of Ganges place in the arty Commercial Drive fills to bursting every Saturday area. The plays are wonderfully morning, as local farmers, crafts- inventive; better yet, they’re short people, and flea marketers gather and cheap. In October, the films to talk, trade, and mill aimlessly. of the world come to Vancouver. With all ages of hippies, sturdy Serious film buffs buy a pass and housewives, fashion-conscious see all 500 flicks (or as many as Eurotrash, and rich celebrities all they can before their eyeballs fall mixed together, the event has the out). See p. 49. feel of a weird and benevolent rit- • Celebration of Light (Vancouver): ual. See p. 107. This 3-night fireworks extravaganza 03 555723 Ch01.qxd 4/22/04 8:54 AM Page 18

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• World Championship Bathtub street dance—you name it, it’s Race (Nanaimo): Imagine guid- undoubtedly going on somewhere ing a claw-foot tub across the here. In July, all of Calgary is a 58km (36-mile) Georgia Strait party—and you’re invited. See from Nanaimo to Vancouver: p. 300. That’s how this hilarious and • Klondike Days (Edmonton): July’s goofily competitive boat race Klondike Days commemorate the began. Nowadays, dozens of tub- city’s key role as a departure point bers attempt the crossing as part to the Klondike goldfields in the of late July’s weeklong Marine Fes- Yukon. The Sourdough River Raft tival, with a street fair, parade, and Race pits dozens of homemade ritual boat burning and fireworks boats against the strong currents display. See p. 135. of the North Saskatchewan River. • Calgary Stampede: In all of North The whole city gets decked out in America, there’s nothing like the its turn-of-the-20th-century fin- Calgary Stampede. Of course it’s ery for the street fairs, music the world’s largest rodeo, but it’s events, parades, and general high also a series of concerts, an art show, jinks. See p. 315. an open-air casino, a carnival, a