Choli and Making

Course Overview

Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer. Choli , churidar and salwar are very unique and traditional dress from and are worn during festivals, wedding or any special events. Theory and practical aspects of sewing a choli blouse and churidar and salwar will be carried out throughout the course.

Duration of course: 10 months

SYLLABUS:

Manufacture of items:

1. Health and safety in the workplace:

 An understanding of the choice, purchase, safe use and care of sewing equipment for cutting and mounting process of the choli and churidar.

2. Patterns:  Drafting choli patterns, churidar and salwar to sizes.  An understanding and use of patterns, including pattern alterations and simple adaptations, e.g. lengthening and shortening, darts, yoke, draw various necklines according to the trainee’s choice; round, square, V-neck, U-neck, backless.

3. Sequence of processes:  An understanding of the sequence of processes in assembling different parts of the choli, churidar and salwar; sewing darts, join shoulder/ set in sleeve, join front and back bodice, adjusting with temporary stitch, tack hooks and bar tacks. 4. Processes:

 Identify tools and equipment:  For cutting: scissors, measuring tape, straight pin, rulers.  For sewing: needles, thimble, sewing thread, thread, ring, tracing wheel, paper, tailor’s chalk, seam ripper, carbon paper, appropriate materials and fabrics.  For pressing and fusing: iron and ironing board.

 Identify basic sewing stitches and seams:  Hand-worked stitches: Tailor-tacking, tacking, even and uneven stitch, hemming, -stitch, loop-stitch, and bar tack.  Machined stitches: , zigzag, buttonholes, over locking, decorative stitches, over casting, bar tack.  Seams: Plain (to include various methods of neatening), French, flat felt seam, stitching and over lock.  Edge finishes:  Hems (hand or machine stitched),  Bindings (crossway strips and commercial binding),  Cutting and joining crossway strips.

 Control of fullness:  Darts,  Easing,  Gathers,  Pleats,  Tucks.

 Openings:  Continuous strip  Bound  Faced

 Pressing:  Ironing and fusing process.  Pressing of textile items during and after construction.

 Decoration and embellishment:  The preparation and use of traditional and original creative designs from a variety of sources.  The development of design patterns for choli and churidar items.  Decorative stitches such as satin, stem, cross, fly, chain stitches, and French knots.  The use of braid, , ribbon, beads, sequins, and other trimmings.  An appreciation of the use of hand and machine decoration to embellish textiles, the combination of hand and machine work to embellish textiles, such as , , hand embroidery, and machine embroidery.

5. Assessment:

At the end of the course, the trainee:  should produce a portfolio showing choli, churidar and salwar designs and patterns.  Should produce 1. one simple choli with 4 darts and high neck, 2. A choli with yoke, 3. A “catori” choli, 4. A sleeveless choli, 5. A décolleté choli showing binding techniques, 6. A lined choli, 7. An embroidered choli with decorative features 8. A choli in stretched fabric, 9. Churidar set with appropriate embellishment, 10. Kurti variation, and 11. Salvar variation.

6. Entrepreneurial skills: The trainer helps the women in developing entrepreneurial skills. Empower them to be self- dependent, and encourage them in being entrepreneurs and to start a small home-base business. They can also group together to manufacture items to be sold on both regional and international exhibitions.