joinery made simple
The Much-Heralded Mortise And Tenon By John English
End grain is not the best gluing surface, so it’s fortunate that Chinese artisans in the twelfth century perfected an ancient joint that today allows us to maximize gluing surfaces while also permitting a more mechanical approach to joint making. In short, a finger (called a tenon) is milled on the end of a workpiece, and this fits into a hole (mortise) in a mating workpiece. In the typical mortise-and-tenon joint, all four edge and face surfaces of the tenon (as opposed to end grain) slip snugly against the walls of the mortise. Add glue, and/or some mechanical fastener, and you create a powerful bond for project parts. Of course, early on, Chinese craftsmen used mortise-and-tenon joinery to construct large buildings rather than coffee tables or cabinet doors, but the principle is the same regardless of scale. On page 22, you’ll find two complementary mission tables that let you try this tried-and-true joinery firsthand. But before going there, stick around for a closer look at one of woodworking’s hardest working joints.
a powerful joint with many faces
Mortise-and-tenon joints come in Open mortises C (sometimes called are tapered or square, but usually variety of forms (see Fig. 1) but bridle joints, but more often lap not. Often, they are of a contrasting there are two main types: stopped joints) occur when one wall of the species to create a pleasing look. (or “blind”) A, and through B. In the mortise is missing. Sometimes, the In a wedged-tenon joint F the former, the tenon dead-ends inside tenon in such a joint is dovetailed through mortise is slightly flared the mortise; in the latter, it goes all the D and revealed for aesthetic reasons. toward the outside (bottom of the way through. The standard stopped- Open mortises are not true mortise- hole), and there are one or two splits mortise joint in modern furniture is and-tenon joints, but they are easier in the end of the tenon. After the joint relatively simple. It can be hand-cut, to make and serve well in applications has been assembled, one or more milled with a combination of power where the joint doesn’t have to deal wedges are glued and hammered into and hand tools, or created entirely with stress coming from an angle. the split, forcing the tenon to expand with machines. And in addition to A pinned mortise E is nothing more and fill the flared mortise. A round glue and a nice fit, a tenon also can than a standard joint with dowel hole drilled in the tenon at the end of be secured in a mortise with pins, pins running through the tenon to the split will stop it from telegraphing
wedges, or tusks. lock it in place. Sometimes the pins past the joint and traveling along the photos: John english
42 woodcraft magazine D e c 2 0 0 7 / J a n 2 0 0 8 Fig. 1, Mortise and Tenon’s Many Faces
A
part (as with a chair rail, for B example). The degree of taper depends on the density of the wood species. STANDARD STOPPED (BLIND) A wedged tenon can be made MORTISE AND TENON STANDARD THROUGH in a stopped mortise too, but it’s MORTISE AND TENON more difficult because the math is C challenging. This is referred to as either a blind-wedged tenon G or a fox wedge. In a stopped (or “blind”) mortise, the OPEN MORTISE D (LAP JOINT) wedge must be exactly the right length or it will be either too loose or too tight. In a through mortise, the wedge can be DOVETAILED OPEN trimmed after the joint is closed. MORTISE In a tusk-tenon joint H the tenon E protrudes quite a long way through the mortise. It is then secured with a tapered key that is driven through a hole in the tenon. One edge of the hole is actually inside the mortise, so the wedge pulls Dowels Mortise the joint tight as it is driven. (Usually a contrasting color) F slightly I tapered Loose tenons (also known as floating PINNED MORTISE or feathered tenons) are becoming more AND TENON and more popular in the machine age, as they can be made quickly and with little WEDGED TENON effort. To create this joint, two identical G mortises are plowed with a router bit, leaving the ends round. A piece of stock is then milled with round edges to fit, and this is the tenon. Festool has H recently introduced a new tool called the BLIND-WEDGE TENON Domino Joiner that makes quick work (FOX WEDGE) of this joint. It’s fairly easy to mill with a standard router, too, while providing TUSK TENON reliable strength and longevity. I A haunched tenon J has a smaller J tenon beside the main one. Sometimes, haunches are square, while at other times they’re triangular. On a part with LOOSE TENON HAUNCHED two or more tenons, there can be a short TENON haunch joining them, to add strength. The built-up mortise K (sometimes BUILT-UP TRAPPED called a boxed mortise) is a product of DOVETAIL TENON the age of superior glues. It is laminated (BOXED OR LAMINATED MORTISE) in three layers around the tenon, so K there is no chopping involved. The tenon can be straight or dovetailed L. L Tenon
Mortise
w w w . W o o d c r a f t M a g a z i n e . c o m woodcraft magazine 43 joinery made simple
sizing the joint
The key to the mortise and tenon Sizing the width of a tenon is to create as much gluing surface involves a choice. It’s a lot easier to as possible. Sometimes, that means make the shoulder the same width revealing more than one tenon. If the all the way around, but it may tenon is 2" or wider, it’s a good idea to not always be the best choice for make multiple tenons as in Photo A. strength. If your mortise is at the This also avoids the slight possibility end of a ¾" thick stile, you might of problems due to wood movement. want to leave a little more material In extreme humidity, the tenon could A there than ¼". Doubling it to ½" expand enough to split the mortise. is probably wise. If the mortise Tenons are normally longer than they Creating double tenons when they will is halfway along the stile, then be more than 2" wide adds edge-grain shoulders that are even all around gluing surface, and avoids expansion problems. are a sound choice. Tenons need to fit properly in their mortises. If they are too tight, they can crack the walls of the mortise. Too loose, and the joint will fail under stress. Lay out the mortise first, as a tenon is easier to adjust (more accessible) than a mortise. A precision square and a Fig. 2 sharp marking knife will leave a thin,
Common Mortise accurate line. You might also consider and Tenon Spacing B a wheel marking gauge (see the Buying Guide) for easier, one-handed are wide. In general, a tenon should When laying out the sides of a mortise, marking. Both are ideal for scoring draw both lines off one face of the be about 1/3 the thickness of the stock across grain, where a clean, crisp edge board, in case the workpiece isn’t the for the mortise (not the tenon!). That same thickness throughout. is essential for accuracy. The stock means that the sidewalls of the mortise must be square. With a gauge that has are about the same thickness as the should be somewhere around 1 to 1½" one wheel, scribe the two lines for the tenon (Fig. 2). For 1" thick stock, a 3/8" long. If in doubt, longer is better. If the long edges of the mortise by running mortise is a good choice. tenon is to be haunched, the haunch the gauge across the best face of the The length of a stopped tenon should should be about 1/3 the length of the stock two times, moving the fence for be an absolute minimum of four times tenon. By the way, one of the primary the second pass as shown in Photo its thickness, and hopefully more (six reasons that people use haunches is B. This guarantees that the mortise is times is probably best, but not always to accommodate the grooves for door parallel to the best face (just in case practical). If the tenon is ¼" thick, it panels in door frames. your stock isn’t the same thickness).
HOW TO CUT CLEAN, SQUARE MORTISES
With your mortise locations marked, size. (See the sidebar “Hollow-Chisel mortise, but this might not be possible begin cutting them to shape using either Mortising Machines and Accessories,” with some hollow chisels. They have of the following proven methods. as well as the Buying Guide.) These a taper which limits the depth of cut. n By Machine: are the locations of the fence and You can mark your stock and hold it For most mortises, a hollow-chisel the depth stop. Setting the depth is beside or behind the cutter, and then machine (or a mortising attachment done before setting the fence. The adjust the stop visually, as shown in kit for the drill press) has only two mortise should run about 2/3 of the Photo C. It’s a good idea to go with ½" variables to set after choosing the bit way through the stock for a stopped increments when deciding how deep a
44 woodcraft magazine D e c 2 0 0 7 / J a n 2 0 0 8 While ordinary bench chisels will work to pare the sides of a mortise, there are special chisels available (see the Buying Guide) that are far better suited to the task of actually cutting mortises. Their shafts are thicker, to resist the levering action required to tease waste from the bottom of a deep mortise, and a high square shoulder keeps them C E properly aligned in the mortise while cutting. A steeper bevel lets you work When setting the depth of a mortise, With the mortiser set up, chop a with more force while not having to be sure to take into account the taper mortise in a piece of scrap and then on the hollow chisel or it will crush the cut off one end to make a template for worry about a fragile cutting edge. well-defined corners. your tenoning jig.
With the fence and depth set, chop a mortise in the scrap stock, and then crosscut it to reveal the geometry of the mortise as shown in Photo E. This is your template for the tenon setup. Now you can chop your mortise in the actual workpiece. Note that the bottom of the mortise won’t be absolutely flat, F D and this is fine. Tenons are often cut 1 Begin manually chopping a mortise by To check if a mortise is centered on a about /16" shy of the mortise depth, as the joint relies far more on the glue laying it out and then removing much stile or rail, make a cut, flip the board of the waste with a slightly undersized end-for-end and make a second cut along the sides of the tenon than on Forstner bit chucked in the drill press. a little offset. Any difference will be its end. It’s better to have a tiny gap immediately obvious. than to have the tenon a hair too long, which will prevent the joint from mortise should be. That way, when you closing. On a through mortise, work cut parts that have tenons to length, from both sides equally or you’ll have the math is a bit easier. tear-out on the exit side. To locate the fence so that you chop a n By Hand: mortise in the center of the stock, you’ll For anyone who doesn’t have access to need a piece of scrap material the same a hollow-chisel mortising machine (or thickness as your workpiece. Eyeball the a mortising jig for a drill press), there is G location of the fence and lock it down. another option. You can do it the old- Make a plunge cut, and then rotate the fashioned way. Mark your mortise, drill To make a perfectly perpendicular cut stock 180°. Move the workpiece about out most of the waste with a Forstner on a through mortise, support the chis- 1/8" left or right and make a second cut bit as in Photo F, and clean up the el with a clamped-on auxiliary fence. as shown in Photo D. This movement edges with chisels and a mallet as shown makes it easy to see how much the fence in Photo G. The drill bit’s diameter Whatever chisel you use, it must must be adjusted to center the mortise should be about 75% of the smallest be as sharp as possible to slice in the edge of the stock. dimension of the mortise (usually the through end grain without taking Many pros seldom concern width). A clamped-on scrap fence is an uninvited detour. And if you’re themselves with centering mortises. often used as a guide to make sure that chopping a through mortise, work They work from a common face (if the the chisel is perpendicular to the top of from both faces toward the middle. parts are to be flush to one face), and the workpiece. This is especially useful That will preserve the edges on both any differences that might occur are when chopping tapered mortises for a openings, and it will minimize any then always related only to one face. wedged tenon. drift from vertical.
w w w . W o o d c r a f t M a g a z i n e . c o m woodcraft magazine 45 joinery made simple
HOW TO MACHINE SNUG-FITTING TENONS
There are several ways to create a tenon. The most popular methods are to use a tenoning jig on a table saw, a dado head, and miter gauge on the table saw, a sled on a vertical router table, or a miter gauge on a standard router table. You can also use a special handsaw, but that method is a bit dated H and takes a lot of practice to get it I right. Maintaining a vertical cut Use the scrap template saved earlier to locate the clamping face of the Check that the blade is at a 90° with a freehand saw takes practice. tenoning jig on the table saw. Note angle before making the two tall Machines are more predictable that the blade is aligned with the cheek cuts, or the tenon will be (although the saw is more fun). mortise wall. tapered. n The Tenoning Jig Approach This accessory can be shop-built or commercially available (see the Buying Guide). It slides in the miter gauge groove of the table saw and holds the workpiece in the same plane as the blade. Before using the jig, the saw blade must be set at exactly 90° to the table. If it’s a hair J K off, the tenon will be tapered. The jig also must hold the work at 90° front By using the table saw’s miter gauge As you define the tenon shoulders, to back for most work (and can be to make the short shoulder cuts after nibble a little off the ends. used on mitered tenons as well). the tall cheeks have been cut, the This allows you to dry-fit the tip waste lies flat on the table instead of in the mortise, before making the First, secure the work in the falling into the blade. final cuts. tenoning jig, and use the scrap piece you saved earlier from the mortise setup to lock the jig’s position side- to-side as shown in Photo H. This determines the thickness of the tenon. Now, raise the blade to the length of the tenon and make your cheek cuts (Photo I). Next, define the shoulders by using the saw’s miter gauge. Some L M professionals do this the other way around, defining the shoulders When dry-fitting, try not to wiggle When you're satisfied with the fit, before the cheeks. However, that the tenon from side to side as this remove the rest of the waste on the leaves a piece of narrow waste will crush some fibers and cause a bandsaw. A wide (resaw) blade makes standing on its end, waiting to fall sloppy fit. for a straighter cut. into the blade and shoot across the room. Raise the blade to the depth shoulders are not even all around. right position, and use the block to of the shoulder to make all four Clamp a stop block to the fence to register all four cuts, so they line up passes as shown in Photo J. You may avoid trapping offcuts between fence properly. For the edge shoulders that have two different setups here if the and blade. Lock the fence in the determine the width of the tenon, it’s
46 woodcraft magazine D e c 2 0 0 7 / J a n 2 0 0 8 a good idea to nibble away a bit of the tenon on each edge as shown in Photo K, and then test the fit in the mortise as shown in Photo L. Then move to the bandsaw for the final cut. See Photo M. n The Dado Head Method If the saw’s miter gauge is set at precisely 90° and a sharp dado head N O is available, you can create tenons without a special jig. Clamp a stop Tenons can be revealed on the table The safest way to cut tenons on a saw using a dado head and a starter traditional router table is to clamp block to the fence to avoid kickback, block that avoids kickback, in case the work to a miter gauge fence and lock the fence in the correct the end of the workpiece drags and make several passes over a position. Then simply nibble away against the fence. mortising bit. the waste until the tenon is revealed as shown in Photo N. tear-out on the back end of each cut. make each pass no more than 1/3 of n Tenons with a Router Table On a horizontal (standard) router the diameter of the bit being used. A For both this and the dado head table, use a miter gauge to guide hinge mortising bit (see the Buying method, it’s a good idea to score the part across the cutter. Usually, Guide) is an excellent choice here, the lines of the tenon in the stock several passes will be required to as it has wider carbide flutes and using a square and a sharp knife to nibble away the waste as shown in an enlarged center relief for chip establish clean lines and eliminate Photo O. It’s a good practice to clearance.
ASSEMBLING THE MORTISE-AND-TENON JOINT
The tenon should fit tightly into the mortise, but not so tightly that it might split the sides. One should be able to dry-fit it and still take it apart without wiggling it. If the tenon is too tight, clamp it in a vise and work gently on the cheeks with a medium file. Be careful not to remove too much material. If the fit is sloppy, mill a new tenon. P Q Apply glue to all five surfaces To make slightly tapered through The first step in cutting the slots for of the tenon, and use a brush to mortises for wedged tenons, simply a wedged tenon is to drill a couple distribute an even coat within the raise one end of the work and of holes for the slot to dead-end in, mortise. Tap the tenon in place and, dress the edges of the opening or they might split the part under when properly seated, use a clamp at about 5°. pressure. to apply pressure until the glue cures. I like to wipe off excess glue slight angle. Use a block of scrap couple of small wedges from the edge with a damp cloth, but some pros under one end to elevate the part to of a piece of stock that’s the same hold to the theory that it tends to about a 5° angle as shown in Photo thickness as the width of the mortise. dilute the glue, and spread it into P. Drill two holes near the base of During the glue-up, drive the wedges the wood. Instead, they allow the the tenon as in Photo Q, supporting evenly to keep the tenon straight in excess to skin over, and then lift it the outfeed side with scrap to avoid the mortise. Don’t drive one of them off it with a chisel. tear-out. On the bandsaw, cut two all the way in before starting on the If wedges are used, the edges of kerfs in the tenon as in Photo R, other as shown in Photo S. After the the mortise must be chopped at a and stay with the bandsaw to cut a glue dries, cut the wedges close to (continued on page 49)
w w w . W o o d c r a f t M a g a z i n e . c o m woodcraft magazine 47 joinery made simple
Hollow Chisel Mortising Machines And Accessories Over the last few years, several hold the workpiece firmly against Delta makes a nice rig that quality mortising machines and the fence, and a couple of pull- converts a drill press into a drill press mortising accessories out table extensions that give mortising machine. It’s a little have come on the market aimed you 35" of support. On top of all less expensive and is designed at the serious home craftsman, that, the Steel City machine has to fit most and they are reasonably priced. a five-year factory warranty. It, Delta and Here’s a rundown of few well- too, includes 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and Sears known brand names. 1/2" mortising bits and chisels. It models General International’s tilting/ ships at 88 lb. and any swiveling head model A good entry-level other drill 75-050T M1 is a cast unit is Jet’s model press with 5 iron mortiser with a JBM-5 Benchtop a 2 /8", 7 gas head cylinder Mortiser. Like the 2", 1 /8", 1 and a 9" chisel others, it has a or 1 /2" stroke. It comes ½ hp motor and diameter with sleeves a rack-and-pinion quill. The Delta fence bolts for both head. While the to the drill-press table and includes four chisels and bits 5/8" and unit ships with only (1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2"). 3/4" chisel 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" shanks, chisels it does Like any other edge tool, and the have a removeable don’t forget to keep your bits really safety toggle sharp. A simple hand-held cool switch that sharpener is available for feature is that the head swivels prevents honing mortising bits and tilts 180° for mortising at accidental and should be the first an angle (think splayed legs and start-up. accessory you buy. chairs). The 75-050T weighs in ce PLU 1 n S at just over 100 lb, has a /2 hp ie 1 n motor, and it comes with /4", e WOODCRAFT # price
v BUYING GUIDE
5 3 1 n
/16", /8", and /2" chisels. o c General International Hollow Chisel 829232 $434.99 1. Mortiser, Model 75-050T M1 Another benchtop model worth a look is 2. Jet Benchtop Mortiser, Model JBM-5 814541 $249.99 Steel City Benchtop Mortiser, Model 835218 $279.99 the Steel City 3. 25200 25200. Built Delta Drill Press Mortising Attachment for left- and 4. Kit, (w/fence, hold-downs, chisels and 813890 $79.99 bits) right-hand Woodcraft Mortising Bit Sharpener Kit 144385 $39.99 woodworkers, 5. it also runs on Sorby Deep Mortise Chisel Set, 1/4", 6. 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2" 14U20 $224.99 a ½ hp motor. In Available Separately For $69.99 Each addition to its 7. Woodcraft Tenoning Jig 144755 $79.99 rack-and- Woodcraft Hinge Mortising Router Bit, 8. 147238 $10.99 pinion 1/2" dia, 1/4" shank
head Lie-Nielson Dowel Plate (makes 1/8", 9. 823413 $44.99 (up 3/16", 3/8", ½", and 5/8" dowels) and down 10. Wheel Marking Gauge 143531 $14.50 motion), it also has a rack- Right Hand Marking Knife 11. 127680 $17.99 and-pinion fence system with (Left Hand Marking Knife, 127681) roller bearing work supports that Above items available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
48 woodcraft magazine D e c 2 0 0 7 / J a n 2 0 0 8 EGD?:8I CJB7:G ©
R S
Bandsaw the two kerfs for the During glue-up, gently tap the wedges.GOING INTO A CURVED SECTION 4HE CURVE One wedge won’t spread wedgesTO SET IT 4O INCREASE THE CUTTING DEPTH into their kerfs using the tenonIS PURELY FOR AESTHETICS to the gentle dovetail a shortTAP ON THE FRONT OF THE PLANE OR ON TOP length of dowel and a shape 4HE WEDGE MUST BE ADJUSTED TO PRO that locks it into the mortise. hammerOF THE PLANE IRON 4O DECREASE THE CUT or dead-blow mallet. VIDE EQUAL PRESSURE ON THE BLADE ALL THE TING DEPTH TAP ON THE BACK OF THE PLANE WAY ACROSS THE WEDGE 4O CHECK YOUR )F YOU HAVE TO DECREASE THE DEPTH FOR their bases and then sand them for this approach to save your PRESSURE PRESS THE WEDGE INTO THE PLANE ANY REASON ALWAYS RESET THE WEDGE 4O flush.WITH THE BLADE IN PLACE !N IMPRESSION When finished, a wedged fingertips).EVEN OUT THE CUTTING DEPTH ACROSS THE Tusks can be glued /UR .%7 BENCHTOP MODEL IS tenon serves as a strong, eye- in place, but usually they are not. DESIGNED FOR THE SMALLER SHOP AND OF THE ROD WILL APPEAR ON THE SURFACE ENTIRE BLADE SURFACE TAP ON THE BLADE DELIVERS ALL THE UNIQUE FEATURES FOR pleasing!FTER A FEW MINUTES OF ADJUSTING WITH A wood joint. TheyTO THE RIGHT OR LEFT TO GET THE BLADE EVEN can be a simple taper, or the A 3!.$ &,%% PERFORMANCE ForSCRAPER YOU CAN SEE THAT ) NOW HAVE AN pins in a pinned tenon, tuskWITH THE SOLE OF THE PLANE heads can have a decorative drillEVEN IMPRESSION NEARLY THE ENTIRE WAY from both sides and try to profile./NCE YOU HAVE IT SET GIVE IT A TEST meetACROSS THE WEDGE in the middle. &IG This will "E SURE THE DRIVE 9OU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SET THE BOTTOM OF THE WEDGE IS MORE THAN BLADE TO TAKE PAPER THIN SHAVINGS leave clean holes on both faces. UP FROM THE BLADES EDGE TO ENSURE GOOD 7HEN WELL TUNED THE CHIPS WILL BE If a CHIP EJECTION dowel plate is available THROWN RIGHT OUT OF THE PLANE WITH NO (see the Buying Guide), it will SIGNS OF JAMMING !DD AN OPTIONAL FLEXIBLE SHAFT deliver3ET THE BLADE dowels that are exactly the /NCE YOU ARE HAPPY WITH THE PER DETAILING WAND AND BUILD A same)TS NOW TIME TO TRY OUT YOUR NEW diameter as a drill bit, and FORMANCE BANDSAW THE PLANE TO A COMPLETE 3!.$ &,%% perfectlyPLANE 4O SET THE BLADE PLACE THE PLANE round. COMFORTABLE SHAPE AND ENJOY USING SANDING SYSTEM OnBODY ON A m AT WORK SURFACE INSERT THE tusk tenons, make sure IT )T WILL QUICKLY BECOME A FAVORITE IN BLADE AND PRESS THE WEDGE INTO PLACE BLADE AND PRESS THE WEDGE INTO PLACE YOUR SHOP YOUR SHOP there’sWITH Y enoughOUR TH UMBwood 7 beyondITH A MA LLET OR the openingSMALL HAM forME Rthe GEN tuskTLY TA (alsoP ON T HE WEDGE called a key or a wedge), so that the tenon doesn’t split when the tapered tusk is driven home. 5SING THE EASY TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS YOU CAN LOAD THE 6ELCRO COVERED DRUM WITH The tusk and the outside wall of A LOOP BACKED SANDING ROLL IN MINUTES the hole must be cut at exactly 4HE DRUM EASILY ACCOMMODATES THREE the same angle. Make the tusk GRITS FOR QUICK PROGRESSIVE SANDING about 1/32" narrower than the width of the hole, and cut the taper on the bandsaw using a ! 3HOP 0ROVEN &INISHING 3ANDER 4HAT )S simple jig that can ride against MirrorCoat is specially formulated to the machine’s fence. One cut will create glossy, high build resin surfaces s%ASY s&AST s#LEAN s6ERSATILE on bars, counters and tabletops. Pour a s#OST %FFECTIVE s&UN deliver the tapered edges on two perfect durable,*OHN 2ICHARDS*OHN smooth,2ICHAR glossy fi nish onDS s-ADE )N 53! tusks. Matching and contrasting many surfaces such as wood, ceramics, plaster and masonry. species*OHN both2)CHAR lookDS goodBEGAN inWORKING this WOOD IN WITH A CIRCULAR MirrorCoat is pourable, self-leveling, application.SAW A R CleanOUTER AND up A theDESIR edgesE TO LEARN 4ODAY HE OPERATES *32 scratch and stain resistant as well as with a7OODWORKING A SMALL WEEKEND BASED WOODWORKING SCHOOL IN 7 file,OODWORKING or use aA benchSMALL WEEKEND BASED plane alcoholWOODWORKING and waterSCHOOL proof. IN that is(ICKORY .# locked upside-down in Find a dealer near you at: a bench vise (use a push stick systemthree.com Or call 800.333.5514 WWWRJRSTUDIOSCOM 7//$#2!&4 -!'!:).% \ ©2007 System Three Resins, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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