The Much-Heralded Mortise and Tenon by John English
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JOINERY MADE SIMPLE The Much-Heralded Mortise And Tenon By John English End grain is not the best gluing surface, so it’s fortunate that Chinese artisans in the twelfth century perfected an ancient joint that today allows us to maximize gluing surfaces while also permitting a more mechanical approach to joint making. In short, a finger (called a tenon) is milled on the end of a workpiece, and this fits into a hole (mortise) in a mating workpiece. In the typical mortise-and-tenon joint, all four edge and face surfaces of the tenon (as opposed to end grain) slip snugly against the walls of the mortise. Add glue, and/or some mechanical fastener, and you create a powerful bond for project parts. Of course, early on, Chinese craftsmen used mortise-and-tenon joinery to construct large buildings rather than coffee tables or cabinet doors, but the principle is the same regardless of scale. On page 22, you’ll find two complementary mission tables that let you try this tried-and-true joinery firsthand. But before going there, stick around for a closer look at one of woodworking’s hardest working joints. A POWERFUL JOINT WITH MANY FACES Mortise-and-tenon joints come in Open mortises C (sometimes called are tapered or square, but usually variety of forms (see Fig. 1) but bridle joints, but more often lap not. Often, they are of a contrasting there are two main types: stopped joints) occur when one wall of the species to create a pleasing look. (or “blind”) A, and through B. In the mortise is missing. Sometimes, the In a wedged-tenon joint F the former, the tenon dead-ends inside tenon in such a joint is dovetailed through mortise is slightly flared the mortise; in the latter, it goes all the D and revealed for aesthetic reasons. toward the outside (bottom of the way through. The standard stopped- Open mortises are not true mortise- hole), and there are one or two splits mortise joint in modern furniture is and-tenon joints, but they are easier in the end of the tenon. After the joint relatively simple. It can be hand-cut, to make and serve well in applications has been assembled, one or more milled with a combination of power where the joint doesn’t have to deal wedges are glued and hammered into and hand tools, or created entirely with stress coming from an angle. the split, forcing the tenon to expand with machines. And in addition to A pinned mortise E is nothing more and fill the flared mortise. A round glue and a nice fit, a tenon also can than a standard joint with dowel hole drilled in the tenon at the end of be secured in a mortise with pins, pins running through the tenon to the split will stop it from telegraphing wedges, or tusks. lock it in place. Sometimes the pins past the joint and traveling along the PHOTOS: JOHN ENGLISH 42 WOODCRAFT MAGAZINE D EC 2 0 0 7 / J AN 2 0 0 8 Fig. 1, Mortise and Tenon’s Many Faces A part (as with a chair rail, for B example). The degree of taper depends on the density of the wood species. STANDARD STOPPED (BLIND) A wedged tenon can be made MORTISE AND TENON STANDARD THROUGH in a stopped mortise too, but it’s MORTISE AND TENON more difficult because the math is C challenging. This is referred to as either a blind-wedged tenon G or a fox wedge. In a stopped (or “blind”) mortise, the OPEN MORTISE D (LAP JOINT) wedge must be exactly the right length or it will be either too loose or too tight. In a through mortise, the wedge can be DOVETAILED OPEN trimmed after the joint is closed. MORTISE In a tusk-tenon joint H the tenon E protrudes quite a long way through the mortise. It is then secured with a tapered key that is driven through a hole in the tenon. One edge of the hole is actually inside the mortise, so the wedge pulls Dowels Mortise the joint tight as it is driven. (Usually a contrasting color) F slightly I tapered Loose tenons (also known as floating PINNED MORTISE or feathered tenons) are becoming more AND TENON and more popular in the machine age, as they can be made quickly and with little WEDGED TENON effort. To create this joint, two identical G mortises are plowed with a router bit, leaving the ends round. A piece of stock is then milled with round edges to fit, and this is the tenon. Festool has H recently introduced a new tool called the BLIND-WEDGE TENON Domino Joiner that makes quick work (FOX WEDGE) of this joint. It’s fairly easy to mill with a standard router, too, while providing TUSK TENON reliable strength and longevity. I A haunched tenon J has a smaller J tenon beside the main one. Sometimes, haunches are square, while at other times they’re triangular. On a part with LOOSE TENON HAUNCHED two or more tenons, there can be a short TENON haunch joining them, to add strength. The built-up mortise K (sometimes BUILT-UP TRAPPED called a boxed mortise) is a product of DOVETAIL TENON the age of superior glues. It is laminated (BOXED OR LAMINATED MORTISE) in three layers around the tenon, so K there is no chopping involved. The tenon can be straight or dovetailed L. L Tenon Mortise WWW . W OO D CRAFT M AGAZINE . CO M WOODCRAFT MAGAZINE 43 JOINERY MADE SIMPLE SIZING THE JOINT The key to the mortise and tenon Sizing the width of a tenon is to create as much gluing surface involves a choice. It’s a lot easier to as possible. Sometimes, that means make the shoulder the same width revealing more than one tenon. If the all the way around, but it may tenon is 2" or wider, it’s a good idea to not always be the best choice for make multiple tenons as in Photo A. strength. If your mortise is at the This also avoids the slight possibility end of a ¾" thick stile, you might of problems due to wood movement. want to leave a little more material In extreme humidity, the tenon could A there than ¼". Doubling it to ½" expand enough to split the mortise. is probably wise. If the mortise Tenons are normally longer than they Creating double tenons when they will is halfway along the stile, then be more than 2" wide adds edge-grain shoulders that are even all around gluing surface, and avoids expansion problems. are a sound choice. Tenons need to fit properly in their mortises. If they are too tight, they can crack the walls of the mortise. Too loose, and the joint will fail under stress. Lay out the mortise first, as a tenon is easier to adjust (more accessible) than a mortise. A precision square and a Fig. 2 sharp marking knife will leave a thin, Common Mortise accurate line. You might also consider and Tenon Spacing B a wheel marking gauge (see the Buying Guide) for easier, one-handed are wide. In general, a tenon should When laying out the sides of a mortise, marking. Both are ideal for scoring draw both lines off one face of the be about 1/3 the thickness of the stock across grain, where a clean, crisp edge board, in case the workpiece isn’t the for the mortise (not the tenon!). That same thickness throughout. is essential for accuracy. The stock means that the sidewalls of the mortise must be square. With a gauge that has are about the same thickness as the should be somewhere around 1 to 1½" one wheel, scribe the two lines for the tenon (Fig. 2). For 1" thick stock, a 3/8" long. If in doubt, longer is better. If the long edges of the mortise by running mortise is a good choice. tenon is to be haunched, the haunch the gauge across the best face of the The length of a stopped tenon should should be about 1/3 the length of the stock two times, moving the fence for be an absolute minimum of four times tenon. By the way, one of the primary the second pass as shown in Photo its thickness, and hopefully more (six reasons that people use haunches is B. This guarantees that the mortise is times is probably best, but not always to accommodate the grooves for door parallel to the best face (just in case practical). If the tenon is ¼" thick, it panels in door frames. your stock isn’t the same thickness). HOW TO CUT CLEAN, SQUARE MORTISES With your mortise locations marked, size. (See the sidebar “Hollow-Chisel mortise, but this might not be possible begin cutting them to shape using either Mortising Machines and Accessories,” with some hollow chisels. They have of the following proven methods. as well as the Buying Guide.) These a taper which limits the depth of cut. n By Machine: are the locations of the fence and You can mark your stock and hold it For most mortises, a hollow-chisel the depth stop. Setting the depth is beside or behind the cutter, and then machine (or a mortising attachment done before setting the fence. The adjust the stop visually, as shown in kit for the drill press) has only two mortise should run about 2/3 of the Photo C. It’s a good idea to go with ½" variables to set after choosing the bit way through the stock for a stopped increments when deciding how deep a 44 WOODCRAFT MAGAZINE D EC 2 0 0 7 / J AN 2 0 0 8 While ordinary bench chisels will work to pare the sides of a mortise, there are special chisels available (see the Buying Guide) that are far better suited to the task of actually cutting mortises.