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Value Chain Analysis Jordan Garments

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Value Chain Analysis Jordan Garments Value Chain Analysis Jordan Garments Commissioned by The Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries (CBI) Enclude BV and CMC January 2019 Zeist, The Netherlands February 2019 Author: Enclude BV and CMC Front page photos: Giovanni Beatrice, Gie van Cauteren and Serge Léon Disclaimer: This document has been prepared in good faith on the basis of available information. Resulting data are deemed reliable by the consultant with the limitations mentioned within this report. Nevertheless, Enclude BV cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy, reliability, completeness of the information in this publication nor its usefulness in achieving any purpose. Readers are responsible for assessing the relevance and accuracy of the content of this publication. Enclude BV will not be liable for any loss, damage, cost or expense incurred or arising from any person using or relying on information in this publication. 2 Contents Management Summary .................................................................................................................................................. 4 1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................................... 6 2. Methodology .................................................................................................................................................... 7 2.1 Reasoning on export opportunities.................................................................................................................. 7 2.2 Structure of the report ..................................................................................................................................... 7 2.3 Research methodology .................................................................................................................................... 7 3. Element 1: European market opportunities ................................................................................................. 9 3.1 Value chain overview ..................................................................................................................................... 9 3.2 Production typology ...................................................................................................................................... 11 3.3 Competitiveness ............................................................................................................................................ 19 3.4 Current Trade Dynamics ............................................................................................................................... 23 3.5 Market trends ................................................................................................................................................ 29 4. Element 2: Structure, Governance and Sustainability of the Supply Chain ........................................... 34 4.1 Structure and Governance ............................................................................................................................. 34 4.2 Employment and Sustainability .................................................................................................................... 41 5. Element 3: Opportunities and Obstacles in the Value Chain: Selection of promising product groups and markets segments .......................................................................................................................................... 47 5.1 Conclusions from Elementa 1 and 2 ............................................................................................................. 47 5.2 Selection of the Product Market Combinations ............................................................................................ 49 5.3 Key opportunities for growth of exports to EU and the key obstacles that hinder export to Europe ............ 53 6. Element 4: Possible Interventions and Support Activities ....................................................................... 60 6.1 Possible interventions – factory level ........................................................................................................... 60 6.2 Possible interventions – ecosystem level ...................................................................................................... 61 6.3 Conclusion on possible interventions and support activities ......................................................................... 61 6.4 Recommendations for CBI and other donors ................................................................................................ 64 ANNEX 1: List of key informants .......................................................................................................................... 67 ANNEX 2: List of companies assessed ................................................................................................................... 68 ANNEX 3: Participants in the validation workshop in Amman, 10 December 2018) ............................................ 69 ANNEX 4: Initial donor activity mapping for recommended interventions ........................................................... 70 ANNEX 5: Relevant initiatives ............................................................................................................................... 72 3 Management Summary The garment sector is one of the principal drivers of economic growth in Jordan today. Jordan places special importance on the garment sector, since it employs 2.5% of the country’s total workforce and makes up 21% of Jordan’s exports in value, which has great economic and social significance. Exporting to international markets has become increasingly important for Jordan in recent years, since regional markets slowed down due to political and economic instability. The reopening of the Syrian and Iraqi borders offers the potential for reconstructing trade networks and utilising currently unmet export potential. Looking forward to developing its exporting potential, Jordan’s stakeholders in the garment sector have shown strong interest in questioning and rethinking the production and trade of garments. Sector landscape There is no reliable data available on the current volume of garment production in Jordan. Data from the International Trade Center (ICT) indicates that Jordan’s garments exports were valued at 1.6 billion USD in 2017. Ninety percent of this value consists of high-quality sportswear for brands such as Nike and Under Armour, and the majority is destined for North American markets under the US-Jordan Free-Trade Agreement. This value chain analysis (VCA) highlights the clear divide in the Jordan garment export landscape between the approximately 85 large factories having 500–2,500 employees, which make up for approximately 95% of Jordan’s current garment exports, and the approximately 150 small and medium factories with 10–500 employees, which generally do not export but have mostly shown interest in doing so. Business case The VCA has found that the trade agreement between the EU and Jordan and the relaxed rules of origin has indeed triggered the interest of the private sector in exporting to the EU. However, the complexity of hiring a specific share of Syrian refugees required under the EU-Jordan trade agreement has proven challenging in practice. In addition, the advantages of exporting to EU are not any bigger than exporting to the US, for example, which has a free-trade agreement with Jordan providing similar incentives to exporters. In Any case, Jordan’s factories are and should be looking into market diversification, as these trade conditions may change in the future. For Jordan to diversify its export markets beyond the US and regional markets, it would be interesting to focus on the medium-high or high EU market segments, according to our assessment of trends in the EU and of Jordan’s competitiveness in the global market. However, the regional and US export markets also offer unmet opportunities. Therefore, we recommend building a clear EU export business case for added value and FOB production models in order to manage risks. The business case for EU export should be different for each factory, depending heavily on individual characteristics such as current typology of products, business model, target markets, current skill set and investment necessary to meet EU requirements. Challenges The company assessments we performed confirmed the impression that SME factories currently not exporting do need to take significant steps in order to optimise and formalise their business processes. At the same time, EU buyers’ awareness of sourcing from Jordan is still relatively nascent. In addition, key obstacles to optimising value- added production for the EU market include a lack of understanding of European requirements regarding standards and design, lack of access to technical assistance and, in some cases, lack of financial resources to invest in production line optimisation and certification. Employing Syrian refugees seems interesting as adding value to what buyers seek in terms of branding and corporate social responsibility (CSR), but it poses multiple challenges which prevent it from being a practical solution to labour shortages and compliance with rules of origin in the short term. Companies also mentioned the difficulty of access to skilled labour as one of the key obstacles to the development of the sector. Opportunities Some key existing
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