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Exploring the Intersectional Identities of Muslim Women Through Modest Fashion

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Exploring the Intersectional Identities of Muslim Women Through Modest Fashion WOMEN UNDERCOVER: EXPLORING THE INTERSECTIONAL IDENTITIES OF MUSLIM WOMEN THROUGH MODEST FASHION by Romana B. Mirza B.A. Philosophy, University of Waterloo, 1988 An MRP presented to Ryerson University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in the program of Fashion Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2019 © Romana B. Mirza, 2019 WOMEN UNDERCOVER Author's Declaration for Electronic Submission of an MRP I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this MRP. This is a true copy of the MRP, including any required final revisions. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this MRP to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP may be made electronically available to the public. ii WOMEN UNDERCOVER Abstract WOMEN UNDERCOVER: EXPLORING THE INTERSECTIONAL IDENTITIES OF MUSLIM WOMEN THROUGH MODEST FASHION. by Romana B. Mirza Master of Arts, Fashion, Ryerson University, 2019 Significant discrimination is directed toward Muslim women who dress modestly. Despite this Muslims will spend an estimated US$75 billion on modest fashion by 2020, a 70% increase since 2015. Past research in modest fashion has focused on influencers, the industry, or on veiling. Muslim women’s everyday dress practices and their lived experiences have not been studied. Through an intersectional framework, this research uses wardrobe interviews with sixteen Muslim women and digital storytelling with four of them to explore how they embody their identity through modest fashion, how intersectionality impacts their clothing choices, and what contexts influence their sartorial decisions. Three themes emerged: what influences their style; how they shop and style outfits; and what consequences are faced. My research found that by prioritizing modesty as a sartorial practice, these women are diverting the Western gaze, navigating away from superficial and oppressive Western beauty ideals, and challenging narrow Islamophobic stereotypes. Keywords: modesty, female modesty, sartorial agency, dressed bodies, fashion, hijab, Muslim, Islamophobia, intersectionality, fashion diversity, Western gaze, Orientalism iii WOMEN UNDERCOVER Acknowledgements I begin in the name of God the most Gracious the most Compassionate. This important work aims to overcome stigmas, stereotypes and divisive racial rhetoric. Taking on this scope of hope would not be possible without the support of the faculty and administration in the School of Fashion at Ryerson University. In the final days of completing this project 50 Muslims were brutally massacred in Christchurch, New Zealand while praying in the safety and security of their places of worship on March 15, 2019, and on March 28, 2019 Quebec tabled its secularism Bill 21. As I put the finishing touches on this work it has become very real to me and I am deeply grateful for the support of the school, the university, and my academic supervisor Dr. Ben Barry who continues to open doors to broaden inclusivity and understanding. I thank my family who have allowed me to ignore day-to-day responsibilities so that I can singularly focus on this project, who have guided me through the graduate studies path, who have dedicated their time to provide feedback and edits to my work, and who have provided all the moral support needed to complete this project. I thank my best friend who reminded me I wanted to go to graduate school and encouraged me to pursue this dream. Finally, none of this work would be possible without my sixteen diverse, driven, and dedicated research participants. Thank you for opening up your private lives to advance this work. I am looking forward to doing so much more for us through the support provided by Ryerson University and Dr. Ben Barry who continues to pave the way forward. iv WOMEN UNDERCOVER Dedication This research study is dedicated to the memory of my grandparents who were displaced through colonization, endured hardships, continued to pursue higher learning in academia and their faith tradition and left a legacy through their progeny, all who aspire to their moral, ethical and spiritual example. May they rest in peace. إنا هلل و إناهلل راجعون Mirza Mahmood Ahmed Khan (Baba) 1905-1979 Babar Mirza (Granddaddy) 1910-1999 Sayeedunissa Begum (Grandmommy) (1918-2003) Muneer Bano Ahmed (Amma) (1920-2016) v WOMEN UNDERCOVER Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................. iii Acknowledgements .......................................................................................................... iv Dedication .......................................................................................................................... v Table of Contents ............................................................................................................. vi List of Tables .................................................................................................................... ix List of Figures .................................................................................................................... x List of Appendices ........................................................................................................... xii Chapter 1: Introduction ................................................................................................... 1 Locating Myself in this Research ................................................................................... 5 Chapter 2: Literature Review .......................................................................................... 8 Western Gaze ................................................................................................................ 12 Homogenization ............................................................................................................ 17 Lack of Intersectional Understanding ........................................................................... 20 Theoretical Framework ................................................................................................. 25 Western Gaze. ........................................................................................................... 27 Homogenization. ....................................................................................................... 28 Lack of Intersectional Understanding. ...................................................................... 28 vi WOMEN UNDERCOVER Chapter 3: Methodology................................................................................................. 29 Recruitment ................................................................................................................... 30 Recruitment Outcome ................................................................................................... 31 Data Collection ............................................................................................................. 35 Wardrobe Interviews. ................................................................................................ 35 Digital Storytelling.................................................................................................... 36 Data Analysis ................................................................................................................ 37 Chapter 4: Findings & Analysis .................................................................................... 39 Style Influences ............................................................................................................. 39 Muslim Identity. ........................................................................................................ 40 Western Culture. ....................................................................................................... 42 A Positive Impression. .............................................................................................. 44 Styling and Shopping .................................................................................................... 46 Adapting. ................................................................................................................... 47 Layering. ................................................................................................................... 48 The Rules. ................................................................................................................. 50 Consequences of Wearing............................................................................................. 53 Always Different, No Matter What. ......................................................................... 53 Hijab Boosts Pride. ................................................................................................... 55 Adjusting for Safety. ................................................................................................. 57 vii WOMEN UNDERCOVER Digital Storytelling Analysis......................................................................................... 59 Hanan: “Underneath This Hijab, I’m Still Human.”................................................. 60 Nina: “Beyond the Cover.” ......................................................................................
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