The People of Okinawa Meet Three Locals Who Represent the Colorful

FEBRUARY 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

THE PEOPLE OF OKINAWA MEET THREE LOCALS WHO REPRESENT THE COLORFUL

AND CREATIVE ENERGY OF THE ISLANDS

PLUS: Peek Inside Love Hotels, Snowsurfing in Fukushima, and Is Japan Biased Against Those with Disabilities?

24 16 28 30 FEBRUARY 2017FEBRUARY

radar 21 NAHA NIGHTS guide & THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five reasons to choose Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower education 8 AREA GUIDE: NAKAMEGURO Naha as your luxurious base. Things to see on the banks of the Meguro CULTURE ROUNDUP, AND OUR River, including a brand-new "mall." 24 BEHIND CLOSED DOORS FEBRUARY EDUCATION SPECIAL As everyone everywhere celebrates love 34 ART & COMEDY 10 STYLE this month, we chat with photographer Our pick of the city's best exhibitions, plus A few pretty little things to help brighten Zaza Bertrand about her new photo book, three comedy shows to keep you laughing. up pre-spring days. which reveals intimate moments from inside Japan's love hotels. 36 AGENDA 12 BEAUTY Chocolate heaven, a stimulating projection Three moisturizing products and three head 28 JAPAN'S FORGOTTEN ONES mapping show, and a friendly fun run. spa treatments to rescue tired tresses. Last year's Sagamihara massacre highlight- ed the country's ongoing bias against people 38 EDUCATION SPECIAL with disabilities. We investigate the reasons How the British School in Tokyo is still in-depth behind the discrimination. achieving top results, and Aoba Japan Inter- COFFEE-BREAK READS national School is creating global citizens. 30 SURFING THE SNOW 15 THE PEOPLE OF OKINAWA Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, 42 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES We meet three talented locals who represent and Fukushima's powdery backcountry National Day celebrations and a few fond the colorful and creative energy of Okinawa. is the perfect place to try it. farewells to old friends. FEBRUARY 2017

Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editor Alec Jordan

Creative Director Liam Ramshaw

Features Writer Matthew Hernon

Contributors Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux

Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Yu Suzuki

Media Strategist Mandy Lynn Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Relations Junko Shimaya Media Producers Jessica "Yumi" Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) [email protected]

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: [email protected]

For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: [email protected]

広告に関するお問い合わせ先電話：(03) 6432-9948 メール：[email protected]

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

4 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: Annemarie, if you had to choose between teen, but found humility through karate. I think our a tropical getaway in Okinawa or getting radical cover shot of him really expresses that. on the slopes of northern Honshu [page 30] for a February holiday, which would you choose? @bapawn: I still haven’t been, but it just seems like there’s some kind of mysterious romance to @mizrama: I would have to choose Okinawa, for two Okinawa. reasons: I will always pick beach over mountains, and I’ve only been skiing three times since moving @mizrama: So Valentine’s month would be the to Japan, so “getting radical” is not really part of my perfect time to visit. It’s probably also a good time to repertoire on the slopes. How about you? visit a love hotel, for those who want to spice things up. Although Zaza Bertrand’s photo series about @bapawn: Actually, I’ve never gone skiing or love hotels [page 26] does show them in a slightly snowboarding before, so I only feel entitled to different light to how they’re usually portrayed. use the phrase “getting radical” because I’m from California … I think I’d take Okinawa as well. As @bapawn: That was a fascinating interview, and much as the weather down there is lovely, the people I’d really like to see more of her photo series. I seem so too. thought her perspectives on this uniquely Japanese phenomenon were quite insightful. @mizrama: Yes, I think our cover feature [page 15] proves that. I love the story of karate master Masaaki @mizrama: And the sheer number of them around town Ikemiyagi … how he admits to getting into fights as a certainly contradict all those “sexless Japan” stories...

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 5 6 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... Check out Nakameguro's new mall of restaurants under the railway, buy a little sexy something, and give your hair the attention it deserves.

8 AREA GUIDE 10 STYLE 12 TRENDS

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT One of Tokyo’s most scenic settings for hanami season, the Meguro River slices through Nakameguro, serving as the backbone of this thriv- ing neighborhood. On top of being prime real estate for boutiques, restaurants and cafés, the riverside is a popular strolling path, as well as a pedestrian-friendly track for jog- gers and dog-walkers alike. Follow the river upstream to Meguro Sky Garden, by the Municipal Library, and you’ll be treated to a peaceful garden retreat 35 meters above the street with ample city views. Nearby, Saigoyama Park is an ideal green space for a sunny picnic, light sport OLD AND NEW activity or carefree people-watching. IN NAKAMEGURO

EVEN WHEN THE CHERRY TREES AREN’T IN BLOOM, THERE’S A BLOSSOMING COMMUNITY ON THE BANKS OF THE MEGURO RIVER, INCLUDING A BRAND- NEW SPACE UNDERWords THE and RAILWAY photographs FILLED by Luca WITH Eandi CUTE EATERIES

WHAT’S IN STORE The neighborhood’s businesses cater to artists, designers and celebrities who have put down roots here, making for an eclectic mix of boutiques. EEL sells high quality clothing like simple jeans, button-ups and jackets. The Mix has vintage men’s and women’s wear. 1LDK carries local and international brands of outerwear and accessories, while Vase specializes in lesser-known European labels. Irma Records|Merch Store deals in vinyl along with their own unique branded merchandise. For knick-knacks, gifts and furnishings, Shop Detail has an array of quirky items. Tokyobike has a shop in the neighborhood to pick up some stylish wheels. And no visit to Nakameguro is complete without a visit to Cow Books for reading materials.

8 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER RESTAURANTS Like any respectable Tokyo neighborhood, Nakameguro is teeming with great restaurants for a night out. Late last year, the selection grew even bigger with the opening of Nakameguro Koukashita (www.nakamegurokoukashita.jp), a 700m stretch of cafés, bars and eateries that runs underneath the raised railway tracks at Nakameguro Station. Here you can sample ramen, udon, sushi, Spanish cuisine, sake, and plenty of other culinary delights. Head away from the station to fine Craftale, which provides high-concept dining from a former Joël Robuchon chef. Along the same lines, Sourire does its version of Japanese-meets-French food. For something a little wilder, Yakiyama specializes in grilling game like pheasant, boar and deer. Xin Xian is a great spot for shabu-shabu, as is Kijima. Award-winning pizzaiolo Hisanori Yamamoto got his training in Naples, which makes his Da Isa Pizzeria as authentic as you’ll find in Tokyo. One of the best Mexican spots in the city, Junkadelic, will sate your craving for enchiladas. Sun 2 Diner deals in American standards like hamburgers, sandwiches and BBQ.

GET HIP TO IT

Nakameguro has a laid-back vibe within an urban setting, making it a natural fit for a younger, international, hip crowd. This translates into a remarkably high concentration of coffee shops in the neighborhood, including standouts Onibus, Streamer and a fresh branch of Blue Bottle. For coffee and books, head to the newly opened Nakameguro Koukashita where you can buy a latte and browse magazines at the sleek mini branch of Tsutaya Books. Charles Schulz- tribute Peanuts Cafe and the scenic Sidewalk Stand also offer up a tasty cup, as well as good lunch fare. For nut aficionados, Groovy Nuts is a specialty store serving raw and creatively flavored almonds, cashews, walnuts and more. There’s quite a few world- class bakeries in the area as well – City Bakery, Ecole Criollo, Trasparente and Tavern, to name a few.

OPEN HOUSE Kyu Asakura House sits in Daikanyama, a fashionable quarter bordering Nakameguro. The home and garden, commissioned in 1919 by Torajiro Asakura, a chairman of the Metropolitan Assembly, was used to conduct business and entertain guests. It’s an important cultural property, as it is one of the few remaining wooden houses in the area that survived the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake and carpet bombings during World War II. The architecture incorporates elements from the Meiji, Taisho and Showa eras and endures as an ideal specimen for those styles. A bonus for thrifty visitors – the house and surround- ing gardens can be visited for the admission fee of a mere ¥100.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 9 STYLE

JIMMY CHOO STILETTOS February may be the shortest month, but it can feel like the longest. Therefore, bright and shiny things are needed to add some excitement to this otherwise dreary time of the year, like this pair of Jimmy Choo pumps. Crafted from smooth silver mirrored leather, they may seem a tad flashy at first sight, but they won't look out of place combined with a simple pair of jeans or little black dress. Equipped with a sleek stiletto heel and pointy toe, this classic Romy style won't, well, go out of style. jimmychoo.jp

BRIGHTEN UP PRE-SPRING DAYS WITH SOMETHING SHINY, SOMETHING STYLISH, AND SOMETHING BLUE

Compiled by Vivian Morelli

LA PERLA CHEMISE When it comes to lingerie, La Perla is the epitome of luxury. Instilled with a “made in Italy” heritage, the brand is synonymous with femininity, elegance and sophistication. This pale blue chemise is the perfect example of the label's skillful corsetry and meticulous detailing. Designed to hug your curves in all the right places, this piece is made from silky soft jersey and trimmed with lace. Pair it with the matching bra and briefs for an impeccable look. laperla.com TOM FORD PERFUME You will be tempted to buy this not only based on the scent, but on the dreamy look of the bottle. Suitable for both men and women, this Tom Ford fragrance was inspired by the luxurious Italian Riviera resort of Portofino. Just like the coveted vacation spot, it oozes opulence and old-school glamour. The turquoise bottle is reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, and the top notes of this citrusy perfume are bergamot, orange, lemon and lavender. tomford.com

SMYTHSON CURRENCY CASE Smythson, known for its sumptuous stationery and leather goods, is once again winning at the accessories game with this color-trimmed and gold-zippered currency case. Ideal for the frequent traveler, it can be used to organize the different types of notes needed when hopping from one country to another. It's also big enough to hold a passport, so this might be the most practical yet stylish airport companion. smythson.com

ISABEL MARANT ETOILE SCARF Although spring is right around the corner, there are still many weeks LA MER EYE GEL of cold weather ahead, and even It's never a bad idea to pamper your skin, though you promised yourself especially the delicate area around your eyes, you won't be buying any more during winter. The cold temperatures can leave winter accessories, you might your skin parched, and late nights out tend to change your mind with this scarf. easily show their effects. This hydrating eye gel Made from a blend of wool and from iconic skin care line La Mer comes to the cashmere, this frayed scarf from rescue, as it combats signs of aging, fatigue and Isabel Marant's Etoile collection is stress. Dab a tiny amount around your eyes a vivid mix of red, beige and black morning and evening, and let the cooling effect yarns. It will keep you warm until soothe and revitalize your skin. the start of spring, and probably cremedelamer.com even through hanami season. isabelmarant.com0 BEAUTY

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14 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER ISLAND CHARM There's more to Okinawa's beauty than meets the eye – there's a special kind of warmth and creativity in the people who live there. Over the next few pages we introduce you to three spirited locals who are helping to put the prefecture on the global map.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 15 [ PROMOTION ] THE PEOPLE OF OKINAWA The islands of Okinawa are having a moment: tourist numbers are climbing as the world catches on to the prefecture's unspoilt beauty. But aside from its lush green nature and crystal clear ocean, what makes Okinawa so alluring? It's the people, of course. Weekender recently met three talented locals who represent the colorful and creative energy of the islands. Allow us to introduce you...

Words by John Amari

OKINAWAN KARATE IS MORE THAN MARTIAL ARTS. IT IS A WAY OF CULTIVATING THE SPIRIT

16 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER THE KARATE MASTER: bulbous. And when he MASAAKI IKEMIYAGI punches the makiwara, Masaaki Ikemiyagi has an easy-going man- the ground shakes. ner, but he was not always this jovial. By his Next, we sit at a own admission, he was a bit of a tearaway low table next to the in his youth. Slight but feisty, the young dojo, which he built Ikemiyagi was not one to back down from himself 37 years ago. I a fight. “I’m physically small. So I wanted to watch him, dressed in a level the playing field, even with people who white do-gi (martial arts were larger than me.” uniform), as he gently As a teen, he took up karate, joining a dojo but precisely draws Jap- (martial arts gym) in Naha, Okinawa, not far anese calligraphy. His from his hometown, Nago City. Ikemiyagi’s posture is erect, his legs parents were worried: wouldn't karate lead folded beneath him. The their boy further into trouble? But rather than Master’s favorite saying encourage mayhem, training in karate leads comes back to me, and to self-control, explains Ikemiyagi, who is it reflects why he loves prefecture has some of the highest longevity now a master of Goju-ryu karate and teaches karate: “When a flexible person defeats indices on Earth. Watanabe believes there thousands of students from around the world. a strong person.” are two reasons for this. The first is their “Thanks to karate, I became humble.” approach to life: “‘Que sera, sera.' (What Okinawa is the birthplace of karate. It is will be, will be.) Whether it’s a good or bad an indigenous art with a heritage that goes thing, that is our mentality. It contributes to back to the local Ryukyu Kingdom (15th to our good health.” The second is Okinawan 19th century). “Okinawan karate is more I WANT PEOPLE food. On a large table in Watanabe’s fami- than martial arts,” says Master Ikemiyagi. TO ALSO SAY ly-run hotel, 50 different items are immac- “It addresses the mind and body and teach- ulately laid out. The entire energy count is es tenacity and dignity. It is a way of culti- KUSUINATAN, 585 calories, the equivalent of one anpan vating the spirit.” It's hard to believe that (a sweet roll filled with red bean paste). this gentle, welcoming 63-year-old was once AN OKINAWA Where to begin? I reach for a small a troublemaker. But there is another, more SAYING THAT glass of handmade soy milk. It’s almost serious side to the Master, which unveils like pure white water. I reach for another itself after he and I spend a few minutes MEANS KUSURINI drink, an Okinawan citrus juice, which is engaging in kumite (free sparring)... fresh and has a bitter yet enjoyable kick to I throw a jab. Master Ikemiyagi parries NARIMASHITA (THE it. From what I can tell, each item seems and shifts out of the way like a cat. His left like it’s part food, part medicine. Watanabe hand simultaneously clamps my out- FOOD BECAME explains: “Our carrots contain more beta stretched arm in a vice-like grip, his right MEDICINAL) carotene than carrots anywhere else. Over delivers a series of lightning strikes towards here, you have fish, celery, purple potato, my neck. It's all a blur. Thankfully, this is blue papaya...” not mortal combat. Shaken, but still stand- Further along, there are scallions, and ing, I throw a kick. The Master blocks with handama, which is an Okinawan herb that his right leg, and, using the same leg, strikes THE CULINARY QUEEN: locals refer to as nuchigusui (Okinawan at the back of my standing leg, throwing me KATSUE WATANABE dialect meaning “medicine for the soul” off balance. I feel completely at his mercy. Katsue Watanabe is on a mission. She wants as it aids blood circulation and increases Master Ikemiyagi has a personality the world to know the secrets of Okinawan longevity). Light, fluffy pink bread is with- so magnetic that he may as well be 6 foot food and longevity. She also wants you not in reach, so I grab it and break off three Photos by Richard Lee 5 inches tall. While small in stature, he is just to enjoy the region’s offerings, but to pieces. I spread yellow ukon (turmeric), built like an ox; he kicks like a mule. When revel in their unique qualities. “Rather than white sesame jam, and blueberry jam on we move to the side of the dojo, where free just saying gochisousama (that was deli- each. It's a colorful, delicious dance of weights, a punching bag, and a makiwara cious), I want people to also say kusuinatan, flavors. The fruit and vegetables are next (a traditional, wooden “punch-pole”) are lo- an Okinawan saying that means kusurini – Luffa aegyptiaca (Egyptian cucumber), cated, I discover something else about him: narimashita (this food was good medicine).” raw mozuku (sea weed), ozenzai (red bean “I have a pretty strong punch, you know.” I The people of Okinawa are rightfully soup), tougan (ash gourd), and yushidou- believe him. His knuckles are calloused and proud of their legendary lifespans: the fu (soft tofu) soup. I savor every morsel.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 17 [ PROMOTION ]

THE SOIL HERE IS GENTLE, SO THE KINDNESS OF OKINAWAN PEOPLE IS EXPRESSED IN OUR POTTERY

colors in Northern Europe, for example, are completely different to those here.” It is little wonder that some of Kinjo’s biggest successes have been overseas, where she has held exhibitions. “The response was great in Taiwan and South Korea. Lots of people say, ‘I’ve never seen anything like this.’” Prevailing trends are another source of her inspiration. Recently, there has been a revival of traditional styles in Okinawa, which tend to favor monotones, but colors are also back in vogue. Before pottery became a popular art form in Okinawa, urushi (lacquer work) with its bright hues was one of the preemi- nent crafts. In part due to the soil of the island – “which is soft, just like its people" – pottery began to gain in popularity. “The soil here is gentle, so the kindness of Okinawan people is expressed in our pottery.” Seven years ago, Kinjo and her co-creators established a workshop and display space in Okinawa called Tituti (www.tituti.net). “The ti in Tituti means te (hand). Tsukurite refers to the artists or producers of the ceramics, while Watanabe tells me that the level of ultraviolet via the Silk Road and China. For Yumiko tsunagite is a reference to the visitors who rays in Okinawa, which can be four times Kinjo, pottery is in the family line. Thanks connect with our work.” With non-Japanese higher than in other parts of the country, to her architect father, her home was filled and younger visitors on the rise, Kinjo says make for vegetables that are rich in vitamins. not just with ceramics but also traditional she would like to see more people taking up Moreover, gusts of wind from the ocean crafts. “When I went to college in Okinawa, I the art. ensure the island’s soils are saturated with decided to study pottery, and my professors But where do you start? Easy. “Imagine nutrients and minerals. introduced me to different styles. That was who you want to make the pottery for. It could Watanabe’s breakfast is inspired. But how my passion grew,” she says. be a loved one – perhaps your grandma. Then, how did it all begin? Some 40 years ago, her At first, Kinjo was inspired to make earth- imagine how they would hold it. Size is really mother traveled to Europe and the US. To enware as she had a love for monotones. That important. It is easy to make the pottery, once her surprise, she found that many places would change, however, when she entered you know whom you want to make it for.” offered the same breakfast she did in her her forties. “That’s hotel: bacon, toast, coffee and so on. Rather when I started adding than continue serving that same break- colors.” Today, pottery fast, Watanabe’s mother chose an original is as much a part of approach. For inspiration, she relied on her her life as the air that own mother’s cooking. Yakuzen choushoku she breathes. Indeed, (breakfast with 50 pickled items) was born. much of her inspira- Today, Watanabe – who has a medici- tion comes from the nal cooking certificate – is the manager of nature and culture of her family’s 63 year-old hotel, the Okinawa Okinawa itself. “The Daiichi Hotel. She is also the custodian of her sunlight is very strong family’s culinary culture, and her customers in Okinawa and it from around the world come not just to enjoy affects everything her meals, but to discover the secret at the here – the sky and the heart of good living in Okinawa. flowers are vibrant.” An avid traveler, THE POTTERY PRINCESS: Kinjo is also inspired YUMIKO KINJO by her overseas trips. Few things are as quintessentially Okinawan “I like going abroad as ceramics. The tradition goes back cen- to enjoy different turies, having reached the Ryukyu Islands types of nature. The

18 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER [ PROMOTION ] The Next Best Thing

Weekender joined ANTOR-Japan’s glittering end-of-year party to learn more about the country’s future tourism As the evening wound to a close, goals, and how Okinawa, specifically, aims to transform Weekender took a few minutes to itself into the next best international resort chat with Takao Kadekaru, the Senior Executive Director of the Okinawa

up of national tourist Convention and Visitors Bureau, office representatives, to find out more about Okinawa’s has welcomed Mr. growing tourism industry and their Edouard Tripkovic plans for the future. Katayama as the chairman in 2015. HOW MANY TOURISTS VISIT OKINAWA Speaking at the EACH YEAR? event, Katayama said, For fiscal year 2015, our total number of tourists “Tourism is an impor- reached 7.94 million, with 20 percent of these tant economic genera- being from abroad. This is a big increase, as just tor, reaching almost 10 five or six years ago, inbound tourism made up percent of gross GDP, only five percent of the total. For 2016, we are and forecasted to con- hoping to have reached 8.4 million. tinue growing in the coming decades.” Last WHY DO YOU THINK OKINAWA year, Katayama was IS BECOMING SUCH A POPULAR instrumental in found- DESTINATION? ing the Antor Peace Not only do we have beautiful nature and the Movement 21 project, ocean, but we also have a wonderful traditional which stresses the im- culture. Moreover, we have a subtropical ven if you haven’t yet portance of peace, not only in the tourism climate, which means the average temperature traveled to Okinawa, you’ll industry, but for our overall wellbeing. is 23 degrees Celsius. A lot of tourists visit have heard about a few key “One of our aims is to connect people … during winter for a summer experience, or to features that set the pre- Exchange and collaboration are necessary take advantage of our golf courses year round. fecture apart from others. to achieve better understanding between In Okinawa, you never need to wear a coat. EAt ANTOR-Japan’s 50th anniversary and people,” he went on to say. “And from this Christmas party, held on December 6 at year, we started active collaboration with WHAT’S YOUR MAIN TOURISM GOAL FOR Oakwood Premier’s luxurious lounge in Japanese local governments, to increase THE FUTURE? Tokyo Midtown, guests were treated to a awareness of inbound and outbound To become a top international resort. number of these cultural characteristics: travelers.” we dined on local cuisine including a dish FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS, WHICH OF of goya (bitter melon); we swayed along to THE ISLANDS DO YOU RECOMMEND? the sounds of a sanshin played by a local There are 160 islands in Okinawa, and only 40 musician; and we marveled at the karate of them are inhabited. Each one has its own techniques performed by Master Akihito atmosphere, but if it’s your first time visiting, Yagi of the International Meibukan Go- I’d recommend Ishigaki, Miyakojima, and the jyu-ryu Association. Kerama islands. But while the focus of the event was on all things Okinawan, we also learnt WHAT’S THE MAIN DIFFERENCE that ANTOR-Japan – which stands for The BETWEEN OKINAWAN AND JAPANESE Association of National Tourist Office PEOPLE? Representatives in Japan – is taking steps We have a special kind of hospitality in to improve Japan’s understanding of Okinawa. I also think that, because we have had international tourism. Every year, for the chance to deal a lot with foreign countries, example, the group organizes a travel tourists will find it easier to communicate with fair called “Let’s Go Kaigai!” to help and Okinawan people than with Japanese people. encourage and develop the industry. Es- Come visit, you’ll see! [laughs] tablished in 1966, the association is made

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 19 [ PROMOTION ] NAHA NIGHTS Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five reasons to choose Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha as your luxurious base for rest and relaxation

Besides feeling like a mini paradise, the spa is also a place for rejuvenation. hether you’re heading to Inspired by Indian Ayurveda as well as the islands to discover Ryukyu traditions, the treatments speak more about Okinawa’s to all five senses. Ayurveda is one of secrets to longevity, to the world’s oldest whole-body healing shopW for local ceramics, or perhaps systems, and helps to bring mind, body even to take a karate lesson with Master and spirit into balance. CHURASPA Masaaki Ikemiyagi (see page 18), you can incorporates this science into its turn your break into a grand getaway by treatments through the use of herbs, booking a few nights at Loisir Hotel & Spa essential oils, and massage techniques, Tower Naha, located just a seven-minute while also integrating local knowledge drive from Naha Airport and overlooking of Okinawan herbs and treatments, the bright blue ocean. Here are just some providing a holistic experience that will of the hotel’s highlights… appeal to those looking for more than just your everyday beauty therapy. CHURASPA IS AN AWARD- WINNING HEALING OASIS INSPIRED BY SMART AYURVEDA In 2016, the hotel’s CHURASPA won a coveted World Luxury Spa Award, which is the pinnacle of achievement for luxury spas worldwide. The award acknowledges establishments that go above and beyond the norms of customer service, which is something CHURASPA prides itself on. From the inviting, softly lit ambience to the careful combination of treatments, every detail is perfectly planned.

20 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER THE HOT SPRING COMES FROM FOSSIL SEA WATER To round off your relaxation, be sure to take a dip in the hotel’s natural hot spring, which boasts revi- talizing water sourced from fossil sea water that gushes out from 800 meters under ground. This “gift from the sea” is the only open-air, free-flowing natural hot spring in Naha, and its min- eral contents – which cause the water to be salty – are completely different from the volcanic hot springs found elsewhere in Japan. As for its beauty benefits, the salt clings to the skin after bathing, preventing evaporation of sweat for a heat-retaining effect, moisturizing the skin as a result.

YOU CAN DO ALL YOUR SHOPPING RIGHT HERE If you’re pressed for time, or you simply don’t feel like breaking the mood of your perfect hotel stay, you don’t have to go far to pick up a few essential souvenirs. Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha has its very own shopping plaza, open from 7am to 10pm, and featuring all kinds of Okinawan goodies such as Ryukyu glass, folk craft items, shisa (Okinawan lions), awamori liquor, and Ryukyu confectionery. There’s also plenty of fashion to browse, and a convenience store for all those daily necessities – so there’s really no need to ever leave.

THE ROOMS HAVE HAD A MAKEOVER Last year, a selection of suites at Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha were treated to an upgrade, with the grand unveiling being in July 2016. THE CUISINE IS AS CREATIVE AS All the rooms in the hotel IT IS DELICIOUS feature expansive views either over the bay or city, With three restaurants and a top-floor bar to choose and a natural hot spring bath, from, you’re spoilt for choice. To enjoy Japanese, providing that extra dose Chinese and Okinawan cuisine with roots in Ryukyu of luxury and relaxation. history, book a table at Ryukyu Dining HANAFU. This And the Okinawan-flavored restaurant gets its name from a traditional Ryukyu décor – which includes folk dance staged at the historical Miegusuku land- special touches such as mark. For all-day dining, there’s All Day Dining FON- local Yachimun pottery and TAINE, which boasts a sunlit terrace; and for a casual Ryukyu grass – highlights the poolside barbecue go to Sunset Terrace PAPILLON. tropical atmosphere. There Finally, end your evening off with a cocktail at Bar are plenty of different options Planete, where the glittering night-time scenery will for all budgets, from the Spa take your breath away. Deluxe Twin Bay View, which includes a “bath with a view” and a spacious balcony, to CONTACT the Japanese Room City View, Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha, 3-2-1 Nishi, which gives you a touch of Naha-shi, Okinawa | Tel: 098 868 2222 Web: www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/ modern Japanese-style décor. loisir-naha/ www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/spatower/

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Sheraton Okinawa Sunmarina Resort is currently expanding the and the “Ashibina” game room. Other facilities including a new property with brand-new facilities and activities that are all wellness center with an indoor pool, gym, Japanese bath and spa, scheduled to be completed this spring. opened in January 2017 along with the “MegaZip” zipline and “Go The South Tower, which opened in December 2016, consists of Fall” freefall activities. The project will be completed with the 46 luxury rooms all with amazing ocean views, the ocean-front opening of the ocean view chapel in March 2017. restaurant “The Grill” and the “Sunset Bar & Terrace” – both of Enjoy all that we have to o er and let us help make your stay which o er the best selection of food and drinks on the island – the best holiday ever!

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DECEMBER 2016 OPEN / The Grill Behind Closed Doors

As everyone everywhere celebrates love this month, we chat with Belgian photographer Zaza Bertrand about her new award-winning photo series, Japanese Whispers, which reveals intimate moments from inside Japan’s infamous love hotels

Words by Bunny Bissoux

24 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER hether regarded as a seedy remnant of bubble era nightlife or a functional Wconvenience for couples in need of privacy and discretion, love hotels remain a profitable and necessary part of the Japanese landscape. From cheating lovers, or married couples seeking solace from their compact family homes, to lovestruck youths with nowhere else to go, and overworked businessmen forced to schedule their amorous pursuits, the visitors to love hotels come from all walks of life. When the establishments first appeared around the 1970s, they were known for their eye-catching decor, themed rooms and titillating playfulness. In recent years, the gaudiness has been toned down, with state-of-the-art facilities and abundant amenities replacing novelty value as the prime selling point. This evolution is a combination of changing tastes and wavering demands as well as the consequence of increasingly com- plex licensing restrictions. These hotels cementing an ongoing theme of interaction and human stand brazenly in plain sight across the contact. Having previously photographed young people country, and yet for many they remain around Europe, Egypt and Panama, it was in 2011 that somewhat of a taboo. she first visited Japan. “People were very open ... very Belgian photographer Zaza Ber- I DIDN’T KNOW sexual and physical in Panama ... I wanted to go some- trand’s award-winning Japanese WHAT TO EXPECT; where that’s not the same,” she explains. Immediately Whispers photo series offers an unusual intrigued by the manners and social behavior of the glimpse behind the closed doors, docu- I DIDN’T CHOOSE Japanese people, she soon became curious about the menting the hotels and the people who industries dealing with an apparent disconnect between use them. Other photographers who’ve THE PEOPLE. natural desires and people’s ability to openly and honest- focused on love hotels have tended to ly express themselves. Love hotels, hostess bars, cuddle concentrate their interest on the physical WHOEVER WANTED cafés, crying therapy – Japan has conveniently created spaces, the kitschy interiors, exoticiz- TO PARTICIPATE, alternative solutions to a multitude of modern day ing the unfamiliar, and presenting the problems, debatably at the expense of nurturing healthy rooms as no more than quirky locations. I PHOTOGRAPHED organic relationships. However, Bertrand’s pictures selectively Bertrand speaks fondly of Japan, inspired by the capture her own encounters, displaying … I JUST WANTED perfection and attention to detail, which is so different real slices of humanity with an atmos- IT TO BE REAL from her own easy-going European upbringing. She is pheric poignancy conveyed in sometimes fascinated by what she perceives as organization and cinematic composition. control of basic human needs. “I found it interesting ... Intimacy plays a prominent role in [they] don’t always have a lot of time for basic emotions all of Bertrand’s work, with her portfolio in [their] life, so there’s been something created just for that,” she says, voicing her thoughts on love hotels and cuddle cafés. “That things like that can be organized, to me that’s not so natural.” The strangeness of the love hotel system, this pre-planned arrangement of emotions and behavior, is manifested in a kind of tension; one you can surely experience firsthand should you ever find yourself inside such an establishment, and one that intrigued the photographer and is apparent in her images. “You get this pressure when you enter the hotel, you can sense it in the air, people go there for one purpose ... everything is kind of fake. Sometimes when you make love, it just happens and you don’t need to plan it, but here it’s all so specific and predetermined.” The photographs were taken during two trips to Japan, in 2014 and 2016, before and after the birth of her son. She first stayed in Fukuoka and later in Tokyo, employing the help of friends to try and negotiate subjects who would be comfortable being photographed. They initially approached couples directly at the hotel entrances, offering to pay for the price of the room, but

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 25 after this proved largely unsuccessful they resorted to adver- tising online. “I didn’t know what to expect; I didn't choose the people. Whoever wanted to participate, I photographed; gay people, pretty people, ugly people, it didn’t matter, I just wanted it to be real ... not a fictional story.”

Where Bertrand’s previous projects have all included a sense of communal living, depicting lives messily in- tertwined and connected to their surroundings, Japanese Whispers is unique in its remoteness. The scenes are sparse and detached. The shots featuring models drag the viewer’s gaze to focus on the subjects, allowing us to enter this private space with them. That previously mentioned tension is what ultimately contributes to the mystique of the love hotel; whether your overarching view is positive or negative, that tensity can be read as anything from unsettling anxiety to bubbling anticipation. Even for a “normal,” steady couple, the time limit and designated location would make an event out of something that generally happens more spontane- ously. Whether or not that sounds appealing is down to the individual. There is a general misconception that love hotels perpetuate a separation of love and sex, but to generalize that there is no love inside the hotels is as misguided as to believe love and sex only exist in one definable combination. The reality of shooting such intimate scenes could easily become awkward or embarrassing for the parties involved, but it was more the unfamiliar way of working that Bertrand found challenging. For her previous projects, Bertrand spent long periods of time together with her subjects, getting close to them until she completely blended in. This uninhibited access allowed her to capture something candid and personal, as she states: “After a while people forget I'm there. I can’t really explain how I do it, but I become invisible, and then I take photographs.” Inspired by the work of iconic French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson, Bertrand is used to waiting for the perfect moment to appear, with scenes changing as multiple aspects come together all at once. In contrast, the shoots at the love hotels were all pre-arranged: “They were appointments and only one hour each, so a very different way of working; I wasn't invisible, I was very present in the room.” Some people shyly waited for her orders, expecting her to direct them, for others the thrill of exhibitionism perhaps altered

26 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER SOMETIMES WHEN YOU MAKE LOVE, IT JUST HAPPENS AND YOU DON’T NEED TO PLAN IT, BUT HERE IT’S ALL SO SPECIFIC AND PREDETERMINED

their actions or mannerisms, but Bertrand aimed In addition to exploring this new way of working to capture something as unaffected as possible. She in her future projects, Bertrand hopes to have the didn’t choose the people or their clothes or even the opportunity to show her recent series to a Japanese specific hotels – the models had complete autonomy audience through an exhibition. She’s curious about and thus the series should be considered on the the reaction she might receive, wondering if people spectrum of documentary photography, without will be shocked, or even interested. Undoubtedly, any journalistic intention. “It was more like creating few people would resist the chance to peek inside an image, in time and space, of the people who such a provocative private world, but moreover, art would pay money to go and make love.” often brings a chance for people to see everyday The necessity to be so concentrated on the BUY THE BOOK details and events presented as something extraor- scene in front of her was a big experience for the Japanese Whispers by Zaza Bertrand dinary or profound. For those who have grown up is published by Art Paper Editions photographer who describes some of the process alongside these places as part of the mundane, or for and available for €30.00 (¥3,625) from as seeming “like a movie,” the final pictures having www.artpapereditions.org (worldwide foreigners who perhaps have only a fleeting interest a filmic quality enhanced by the low lighting and shipping offered). For more in the subject, Japanese Whispers provides rare mood. “I was out of my comfort zone and I really information about and work by the glimpses of both tender intimacy and cold isolation enjoyed it. It’s like a new door that opened for me.” photographer, visit zazabertrand.com which, in any society, are so often overlooked.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 27 JAPAN’S FORGOTTEN ONES

Last year’s Sagamihara massacre was Japan’s deadliest mass killing since World War II, and it put the country’s bias against people with disabilities in the spotlight. Matthew Hernon looks at the reasons behind the discrimination, and what’s being done to help change attitudes

ameless and faceless: That’s how the peace,” in a letter given to the speaker of the Diet's victims of the Sagamihara massacre will lower house. forever remain in the eyes of the public. Inspired by Nazi eugenics, the multiple- N The abhorrent act, which ended the lives murderer has been given the media platform he of 19 residents at the Tsukui Yamahiro En (Tsukui seems to crave, yet very little information – only Lily Garden) care facility for people with intellectu- that there were 10 women and nine men, aged al disabilities was committed by 26-year-old ableist between 19 and 80 – has been conveyed about those Satoshi Uematsu. A former employee at the center, he killed. The Kanagawa police decided against he'd previously written about killing hundreds of giving more details to protect the families who may disabled people “for the sake of Japan and world be worried about discrimination. The decision has

28 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER intensified the debate in Japan concern- back in 2013, which raised the legal em- in wheelchairs and so on out and about. ing attitudes towards physically and ployment quota for people with disa- Unfortunately, there are still many shops cognitively impaired persons. bilities from 1.8% to 2.0%. While many and restaurants, including new ones, that “Not showing their names and faces is companies still fall below that number, are inaccessible. This contrasts sharply basically like denying them their human- the employment rate of individuals with with America where even old mom and pop ity,” says author Suzanne Kamata, whose disabilities has continued to grow year stores have ramps.” daughter Lilia has cerebral palsy and by year over the past decade. Josh Grisdale, who has cerebral palsy is profoundly deaf. “Following terrorist One organization certainly playing and is the founder of the Accessible Japan attacks in Nice and Orlando I remember its part is Pasona Heartful. A special website (www.accessible-japan.com), reading a lot about what the victims exemption company of the Pasona Group, points out renovations to public buildings were like and what they enjoyed doing. it's engaged not only in the outsourcing of don't just benefit those who are physically Obviously, we couldn't do that after the office operations for people with disabili- challenged, “but everyone.” The 36 year Sagamihara incident, which I felt was ties, but also the development of agricul- old, who moved to Tokyo 10 years ago wrong. Also, it didn’t receive the same ture and other new areas of employment. from Canada and recently became a Japa- kind of attention as other tragedies. There “Our approach is to take each person nese citizen, is pleased with the progress were no hashtags on Twitter or things on their own merit,” says Pasona that’s being made and is confident that like that. As a news story, it seemed to die Heartful director Tadamichi Shiroiwa. significant steps are being taken towards down quite quickly.” “We're an HR firm so our focus is always making Japan a barrier-free country. Kamata's views are shared by many, on a candidate's strengths and skills, not “I feel freer here than I did in Canada including New York–based filmmaker their handicap. For too long in Japan, where I lived in a rural area and always Kazuhiro Soda, who in 2007 directed the people with disabilities have been segre- had to rely on someone for a ride when- critically acclaimed documentary Seishin gated. The situation has improved over ever I wanted to go anywhere,” he tells (Mental) about an outpatient mental the past 20 years, but it feels like a slow Weekender. “In Tokyo, the vast majority health clinic in Okayama. “Of course, the process. I still think we're behind other of public transportation is now wheel- will of victims’ family members should countries in terms of equal employment chair accessible so I can be more sponta- be respected,” Soda tells us. “However, neous. The toilets are also great and very from what I understand in the case of easy to use. There’s even an app to find Sagamihara it was the police that decided them: ‘Check a Toilet.' not to publicize the names of those killed “Sometimes people follow the rules because of their disabilities. I find that too closely here, but in general I feel it’s disturbing and discriminative. I imagine POLITICIAN SEIKO a great place for people with disabilities some of the families wanted to talk openly to visit. I remember the first time I came. about the deceased. Without their stories NODA WAS TOLD There were all kinds of questions swirling the victims remain faceless, making it around my head. Was the hotel going to be harder for the public to feel sympathy SHE SHOULD LEAVE OK? Would I be able to use the train? The towards them. HER SON TO DIE feeling of uncertainty was accentuated by “There are so many people suffering the lack of information. After moving here from mental disorders, but because of the permanently and learning the language, I shame attached they choose not to discuss realized there was lots of it available – it their problems. They are illnesses that just wasn’t in English! That’s why I decid- could affect anyone. I realized this while ed to create Accessible Japan.” working in Tokyo for two months when As well as providing tips, the website I was screamed at by producers and reg- opportunities and barrier-free access. also features various articles including ularly had to stay at the office overnight. The government needs to enforce more some related to the Sagamihara massacre, The working conditions here are stressful stringent architectural policies ensuring an incident which Grisdale found difficult enough to make the most laid-back per- that buildings have better accessibility to comprehend. “I’ve faced various forms son snap, and that was one of the reasons for everyone.” of discrimination during my life, but I wanted to make Seishin. I was strict Suzanne Kamata concurs. She feels never imagined someone hating people about not blurring out the patients’ faces attitudes towards people with disabilities because of their disabilities,” he says. as is the case with most documentaries. in Japan have shifted in recent times; Yet, Satoshi Uematsu is not completely In order to have an open discussion, they however, regarding infrastructure she alone in his perverse way of thinking. should be visible.” believes there’s still a long way to go. The Ableism does exist and is exacerbated by Slightly encouraged by the progress American-born writer explores topics public figures such as Australian philos- that’s being made, Soda believes men- like accessibility and human relations in opher Peter Singer, who advocates killing tal illness is becoming less of a taboo her new book A Girls' Guide to the Islands disabled babies via infanticide. In Japan, in Japan. This is partly down to several in which she travels around the Seto LDP politician Seiko Noda, whose child government initiatives including various Inland Sea with her daughter. It's a trip was born severely handicapped, has been educational programs on the topic. Fur- she probably wouldn't have envisioned subjected to online abuse including one thermore, in April 2016 a new law was en- making 10 to 15 years ago. person who told her that she should leave acted aimed at eliminating discrimination “When Lilia was young, my mother- her son to die as he “uses up so much against individuals with either physical in-law told me not to let her play outside government money for medical care.” or cognitive disabilities. Whilst a little on her own because she was worried what “Rather than spouting these opinions, I vague regarding what constitutes dis- the neighbors would think,” says Kamata. wish those individuals could observe peo- crimination, the legislation, which will be “I heard there were three children nearby ple like my daughter,” says Kamata. “Then reviewed in three years, was unquestion- with disabilities, but I never really saw maybe they’d realize they’re more than ably a step in the right direction. So was any. The attitude back then seemed to be just their disability. Awareness is growing the amendment of the Act on Employment ‘let’s hide them away.’ Thankfully that’s and attitudes are changing, however, I fear Promotion of Persons with Disabilities changed and you’re now seeing more kids that discrimination will always be there.”

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 29 SURFING THE SNOW Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, and Fukushima’s powdery backcountry is the perfect place to try it

Words by Phil Luza

efore the Tohoku earthquake of 2011, Fuk- ushima was one of Japan’s best-kept surfing secrets. The long, jagged Pacific coastline offered a variety of breaks, and caught swell throughout the year. Since many coastal Bareas are now irreparably changed and some remain off limits, the best remaining surf spots in Fukushima are now on its snow-covered mountains. Snowsurfing is the art of riding snow like a wave. Its roots can be traced to the origins of snowboarding, with early snowboards, like the Snurfer, being mod- eled after surfboards. As board design and technology advanced, the emphasis of mainstream snowboarding evolved from carves to airs and skate-style tricks, and the popularity of snowsurfing faded on the global scene. Nevertheless, the underground snowsurf movement has remained a force with carving purists, and has begun to regain popularity in the resorts and backcountry mountains of the world. The feeling of riding a mountain of powder snow is much like the feeling of surfing an endless flowing wave, and Japan’s near endless supply of powder perfectly suits snowsurfing. My first experience of snowsurfing began with an early morning departure from Tokyo to the mountains of Fukushima Prefec- ture, which is bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the Japanese Alps. Our destination was Hinoemata, a small village tucked away in the mountainous Aizu region, located close to Oze. Fukushima doesn’t have the international acclaim enjoyed by Hakuba or Nise- ko, and Hinoemata doesn’t have the towering peaks of neighboring Niigata and Gunma, but this makes it all the more interesting. It’s like a secret surf spot hidden within a city. It will never be famous, but it will also never be crowded. After a long drive we arrived at the parking lot near the base of the mountain where we met our guide Takayuki Hirano, and spotted the mini snowcat we would ride to access the backcountry. As if on cue, the snow that had been falling all morning began to clear up as we loaded our gear onto the side of the snowcat and crammed ourselves inside. The warm interior and quiet grins of everyone reminded

30 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Photo by Phil Luza mountain. The recent snow storm had completely blanketed the area in nearly a meter of fresh pow. The occasional street sign or steel rockslide barriers were the only clues that this road – which gives way to open valleys and powder-covered trees – was ever in use. After a few minutes Takayuki stopped the snowmobiles and attached water-ski tow ropes to the boats. For the remainder of the ride up we took turns towing behind the snowmobiles, carving off the snowbanks lining the side of the road like wakeboarders behind a boat. Once at the top we unloaded our boards and gear from the boats and strapped in. The silence of the mountain was only broken by gentle laughter. Underneath the facemasks me of an Indonesian boat ride I once and scarves of the other riders there took to one of the hundreds of breaks were big smiles as we glimpsed the at that surf mecca. We felt a shared sun glistening off the fresh powder. mix of nervousness and excitement as IT FELT LIKE I Everyone peered over the side of the we gazed out the windows to witness WAS SURFING road into the valley and mind-surfed the warm rays of sunshine piercing the untouched terrain. through the cold morning. A PERFECT Lining up along the ridge line we Dozing off in the warm cabin, I peered over the edge. The etiquette for awoke 30 minutes later as we arrived MEXICAN POINT this trip is to drop in one by one to let at the lodge. In front were two snow- BREAK THAT each person enjoy their run. I watched mobiles with large rubber boats – like as a rider shouted “Ittekimasu” and the ones used for white water rafting NEVER ENDS slid into the fresh powder between the – tied behind them. Inside was a small trees, leaving an arch of spray after repair shop and a wall lined with each turn. Anxiously I watched, know- colorful boards that looked more like ing I was next. After a few minutes I surfboards than snowboards. These dropped off onto the run. The wide funky boards were all made by Moss, nose on my Moss Snowstick sank into the world’s oldest snowsurfing brand. the soft powder, then rose up to plane More than 40 years ago, Moss founder as I gained speed. I was floating over Shinzo Tanuma had a dream to surf on an ocean of snow and flowing effort- snow. In 1971, he created the first Moss lessly between the trees. The endless Snowstick prototype, which was made wave of powder made me feel like I from urethane foam and fiberglass, was surfing a perfect Mexican point much like a traditional surfboard. He break that never ends, and rekindled test-rode the prototype at the Akakura the stoke that only a surfer knows. Onsen ski resort in Niigata, and started When I joined up with the rest of a revolution. the group, the vibe was as if everyone The original Moss Snowsticks have had just caught the wave of their life. been refined, with designs varying The mix of perfect conditions and over the last four decades. The mix equipment left an overwhelming feel- of tail shapes, board length, and nose ing of accomplishment earned from width differs to match the rider’s de- taking the time to seek out a new place sire to draw big lines and deep carves. and try something different. When we I was quickly drawn to the Moss Quad- eventually returned on the snowcat stick model. The fat nose and swallow to the parking lot, we were exhausted tail are similar in design to my favorite but still smiling. To end things off, we type of surfboard, and my mind raced took a short drive to the local onsen, with the possibilities. After swapping where we soaked our tired bodies and out my bindings I loaded the board swapped stories of our perfect day. into the rubber rafts with the rest of our group. As we made our way to the top of the mountain, the sun lit up the USEFUL CONTACTS slopes, and the quiver of colorful Moss Hinoemata: www.oze-info.jp boards sticking out of the side of the Tour info: raku-hinoemata.com boats struck a bright contrast against Moss Snowboards: the pristine white snow. www.pioneermoss.com The snowmobile and rafts fol- Onsen: lowed a narrow, snow-covered, closed From Top To Bottom www.oze-info.jp/spot/komanoyu Snowsurf Design boards by Taro Tamai: Super road that snaked up to the top of the Fish Outline Core, Hornet, and Rocket Fish

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 31 Join the Conversation, Join the Club

JOIN TOKYO WEEKENDER’S INSIDERS CLUB TO FIND OUT ABOUT LIMITED OFFERS THROUGHOUT TOKYO, ATTEND EXCLUSIVE EVENTS, GET THE LATEST INFORMATION ABOUT PRODUCTS BEFORE THEY LAUNCH, AND LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD. CHECK OUT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM/WEEKENDERINSIDERS FOR MORE DETAILS

32 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Yukari Araki, Mixed media2016, Courtesy of AIN SOPH DISPATCH

ART, COMEDY, AND A GOOD EDUCATION Whether you are in the mood for abstract art from the 19th century, need a good laugh, or want to keep up to date on the latest Tokyo school news, we've got it all right here.

34 GALLERY GUIDE 36 AGENDA 38 EDUCATION

Paul Gauguin, Self-Portrait with “The Yellow Christ,” 1889–90, Musée d’Orsay, Paris ART & COMEDY

ORSAY NABIS

A partnership with the Musée d'Orsay brings the works of late 19th century Post-Impressionist, avant-garde collective Les Nabis to Tokyo. Meeting at Académie Julian, the group of artists paved the way for 20th century abstract and nonrepresentational art. Break- outs of the group included Pierre Bonnard, Édouard Vuillard and Maurice Denis, although more than 20 artists made up the collective. Works by influencers, such as Paul Gauguin, will also be displayed. Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum Until May 21 mimt.jp/nabis THE ART WORLD OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS Compiled by Luca Eandi

MATISSE ET ROUAULT

Painters Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault met at art school, when they both attended the École des Beaux-Arts. This exhibition displays correspond- ence between the two spanning 50 years, and the artwork that accompanied it. Although stylistically different, it is apparent from the letters how they influenced each other over time. Important early works by Matisse will be displayed, such as The Bottle of Schiedam, as well as Rouault's oil-color plates for "Divertissement." Shiodome Museum Until March 26 panasonic.co.jp/es/museum

Henri Matisse, Still Life, 1896

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Tiziano, ca.1515, Oil on canvas, Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence © Gabinetto Fotografico del Polo Museale Regionali della Toscana

C COMEDY

Three comedy nights to keep you laughing all month long

JIMMY CARR One of the most prolific joke-tellers of recent times, Jimmy Carr em- barked on a mammoth world tour earlier this year that features a selection of his very best jokes along with brand new material. His deadpan delivery coupled with plenty of dark humor has made him a perfect host for several of Britain’s top panel shows, and Carr brings equal amounts of charm and edge to his stand-up. February 27, Yamano Hall

TITIAN AND THE RENAISSANCE IN VENICE When it comes to Venetian Renaissance art, one prolific painter perhaps embod- EDDIE IZZARD ies it more than others – Tiziano Vecellio, also known as Titian. The 15th/16th In bringing his latest century painter worked steadily on commissions from monarchs and popes alike stand-up show, “Force throughout his fruitful life. His brilliant colors, free and vibrant brushwork and use Majeure,” to Tokyo of softly diffused light became a calling card and influenced generations to come. for the first time ever, On top of dozens of Titian's works, this exhibition includes influential works by Eddie Izzard is closing Bellini and Vivarini, as well as later Venetian works by Veronese and others. Tokyo in on having toured Metropolitan Art Museum Until April 2 titian2017.jp/english 30 different countries. This extensive tour is no match for Izzard’s energetic stream-of- consciousness style of comedy, which often leads him to speak in multiple languages, even ones he claims not to know. Equally at home on stage and on screen, Izzard is a master storyteller and a fearless entertainer. February 25, Tokyo Comedy Store

PERFECT LIARS CLUB Perfect Liars Club is a comedy storytelling/ interrogation show that started in Washington DC in 2013. The point

Gabriella Mangano & Silvana “There is no there,” 2015 / Single-channel video Collection of the artist Courtesy of Anna Schwartz Gallery, Melbourne of the game is to spot YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL FOR ART & the liar. For the first part of the show, four ALTERNATIVE VISIONS 2017 people tell funny stories, three are real, one is not. In the second part, the Better known as Yebizo, this renowned festival will take place at the renovated audience asks questions of the performers, looking Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Ebisu. The theme for this year’s festival is for holes in their stories. In the last segment, the au- “Multiple Future” and the art promises to explore this concept by employing du- dience votes on who’s lying and sees if they’re right. plicative techniques and marrying variant elements. Participants for 2017 include All in all, a fun way to spend an evening and sharpen artist Yasuko Toyoshima, videographer Fiona Tan, American filmmaker Nancy your wits. February 9, Good Heaven’s Bar Kates, and Academy Award–winning Polish director Zbigniew Rybczyński. Tokyo Photographic Arts Museum Until February 26 www.yebizo.com

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 35 1 3

4 Yusuke Tsuchida, courtesy ART in PARK HOTEL TOKYO 2016, JILL D’ART GALLERY D’ART JILL 2016, TOKYO HOTEL PARK in ART courtesy Tsuchida, Yusuke 6 7 8

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN FEBRUARY

1 FEB 11-12 2 FEB 11-24 3 FEB 19-20 4 FEB 25-26 ART IN PARK HOTEL ANDREI TARKOVSKY NITRO CIRCUS 10TH HOSTESS CLUB TOKYO 2017 PROGRAMME ANNIVERSARY WORLD TOUR WEEKENDER 2017 This art fair includes works from Get an education on the Russian Motorcycles, BMX bikes and This two-day indie rock festival is Japan, Taiwan and South Korea, filmmaker during this retrospective, skateboards will fly through the headlined by Pixies and The Kills, using hotel rooms as the exhibition and perhaps see some of his films for air at great speeds, defying all that and also features post-rock band space. Bring Weekender's Jan or Feb the first time on the big screen. you thought you knew about the Mono, Little Barrie, Girl Band, The 2017 mag and get ¥200 off. Where: K’s Cinema constraints of gravity. Lemon Twigs and more. Where: Park Hotel Tokyo How much: ¥1,000-¥1,800 Where: Tokyo Dome Where: Studio Coast How much: ¥1,500 More info: www.pan-dora.co.jp How much: ¥7,000-¥25,000 How much: ¥8,500-¥13,900 More info: www.aipht.artosaka.jp/en More info: www.nitro-circus.jp More info: ynos.tv/hostessclub

5 FEB 25 6 FEB 2-5 7 FEB 11 8 FEB 1-28 TOKYO MARATHON SALON DU CHOCOLAT CHINESE PAPER LANTERN GENTARO ISHIZUKA: FRIENDSHIP RUN 2017 Around 100 chocolatiers from 17 CEREMONY DEMARCATION Happening on the day before the countries bring their best products Yokohama Chinatown is chock-full of This Tokyo-based photographer main event, this Tokyo Marathon just in time to get your sweetheart events and celebrations for Chinese traveled to document oil pipelines fun run is organized especially for something cocoa-tastic for New Year’s, including this traditional within four different countries across foreigners. Valentine’s Day. paper lantern lighting ceremony. the globe. Where: Symbol Promenade Park Where: Tokyo International Forum Where: Yokohama Chinatown Where: Gallery 916 How much: ¥3,000 How much: Free How much: Free How much: ¥800 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: www.chinatown.or.jp More info: www.gallery916.com

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9 FEB 2-28 10 FEB 1-19 FLOWERS BY NAKED “UNTITLED RECORDS” Renowned projection mapping VOL. 10 and lighting installation Nagano-born photographer collective Naked is back Keizo Kitajima returns with to encore an exciting show the 10th edition of this exhibition that's designed to stimulate series chronicling his travels all your senses. around Japan. Where: Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall Where: Photographers’ Gallery How much: ¥1,400 How much: Free More info: flowersbynaked.com More info: pg-web.net

11 FEB 3-12 12 FEB 1-14 YOKOHAMA STRAWBERRY WHITE SACAS ICE FESTIVAL 2017 SKATING RINK Ever since coming on the scene in In addition to the ice rink, be sure 2013, the Yokohama Strawberry not to miss the nearby Akasaka Festival has become one of the Biz Tower illuminations to get more welcome additions to an the full romantic experience for already busy festival season. Valentine’s Day. Where: Yokohama Akarenga Where: Akasaka Sacas How much: Free How much: ¥500-¥1,200 More info: www.yokohama-akarenga.jp More info: sacas.net

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 2017 2017 | |37 37 This year, for the first time in its history, BST is home to well over 1,000 students. There are many reasons to explain the remarkable surge in student enrolment at BST in recent years but foremost among them is the Situated at the very heart of the city, BST has steadily built an enviable widespread recognition that this is a school where young people of world-wide reputation over more than quarter of a century. Here’s a all abilities from the most diverse glance at five of their recent achievements and accreditations backgrounds can find their niche and fulfil their potential. Since 2012 we have seen the number of BST is, of course, much more 15- to 18-year-old students on our than an A Level school. All IGCSE and A Level courses more examinations are important, and than double to almost 250; exami- many parents are impressed by nation results have progressed to the point where they match the BST is an accredited member of the rigour and structured pro- gold standard set by the United the Council of British Interna- gression of our particular brand In January, the school’s good Kingdom independent sector and tional Schools and one of only a of British education from the age name was further enhanced our graduates are winning places small number of schools world- of three through to 18. That said, when the Chair of the Board at some of the most prestigious wide to have been independently students here know that educa- of Trustees, Mrs Marianne universities around the world. inspected according to the UK tion is not simply about passing Black, was awarded an MBE for standards for British Schools exams. Sport, music and drama services to international edu- Overseas, and judged to be excel- are woven into the fabric of cation in the latest New Year’s lent in every category. We regard school life, and we see both com- Honours list. This prestigious this as yet another very welcome munity service and adventurous award, one of just 76 granted to endorsement of the high stand- activity as real strengths. From recipients overseas, recognises ards we set for ourselves. their early years in our Nursery the advances made by BST under and Reception classes, children Mrs Black’s guidance during the are given countless opportunities past five years and offers affir- to develop the independence and mation of the school’s central resilience that will enable them importance to both the British to take the next step in their and the broader international education – wherever it might community here in Tokyo. Young people today increas- take them, with confidence – and ingly see themselves as global a smile. citizens and, while many of our graduates seek to continue their education in the UK, there is growing interest in both the USA and Japan, and a number of current students are looking towards Australia and mainland Europe. Most universities worldwide are familiar with Britain’s public examination system and are keen to accept students with good A level qualifications. In fact, the specialist nature of these two-year courses means that students with better grades can expect to earn significant credit – sometimes up to a whole year’s worth of study. At Harvard, for example, you will need to have at least three A/B grades to matricu- late (earn a place) but three A*/A grades will merit a full year’s academic credit; Boston College will offer two courses of credit for A/B grades, while C grades will earn one semester’s credit, and Princeton clearly states on its website that A/B grades will earn Advanced Placement credit. It is a similar story across the world.

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coaching skills. The idea is to nurture critical approaches to understanding expected norms and behaviors, and to Creating generate learner-led forums and actions in which they can present, test, question, and perhaps modify notions regarding “global leadership”: What is entrepreneurial spirit? Global Leaders What defines a happy family life? What is success? What am I doing now to bring How Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS) is introducing positive change to our community? Greg: We may provide controlled situations unique methods to help build communities and prepare that can lead to conflict in life, and then children for success and happiness in an unknown future problem-solve those issues with others in a responsible way. So, they become attuned to the roots of what causes problems in life s the world moves towards an and how those instances may be managed. increasingly uncertain future, Robert: In many schools you get teachers helping learners become who love the subject they teach, but half Aempowered problem solvers WE CREATE the kids they teach think of it as a waste of and innovators is essential. To that end, OPPORTUNITIES FOR time. Wouldn’t it be better if young people Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS), understand that they’re going into any is paving the way for a unique approach to LEARNERS TO BE SOCIAL classroom to become better learners and education. We chat with the school’s Sec- ENTREPRENEURS leaders – and that this outcome is possible ondary Principal, Robert Thorn, and the Di- even within the context of any subject? rector of Aoba-Japan Extension (AJE), Greg IN THEIR LIVES Culos, who is responsible for community HOW DO YOU EMPOWER THE and external programs, to find out more. TEACHERS? Robert: A good example is a course our HOW DID AOBA’S DIFFERENT teachers took with Professor Philippe Robert: We give more time to the topic of APPROACH TO EDUCATION EVOLVE? Rosinski, who developed a system called global leadership than we do to the tradi- Robert: Many schools have mission state- Global Coaching. His approach leads to a tionally important subjects, with the notion ments with big ideas, such as making an more rounded coach. That said, we also that better holistic learners will learn con- impact on the world one day. We said, “Why realized that, as teachers, we’re only just tent knowledge better, and apply it better. can’t we do that now?” We began to ask learning these skills, so we thought, let’s go ourselves, and the kids: “What is the point SO GLOBAL LEADERSHIP IS PART OF on a journey with the kids. In this way, we of education?” The kids came up with things THE CURRICULUM? are helping to build our community and like, “It’s to prepare us for success and happi- relations between educators and learners Robert: Yes, teachers challenge learners ness in an unknown future.” that empower both to develop the other. about certain topics, and set up opportunities for them to practice leadership and THAT’S INSIGHTFUL COMING FROM HOW ELSE ARE YOU HELPING TO SCHOOLKIDS… BUILD COMMUNITY? Robert: Exactly. We took time to reflect Robert: To be social entrepreneurs, you first together on that. We then looked at how a have to understand your impact on society. So school and an education system can do this; we’re collaborating with local schools. One of how does a learner go into an unknown the events we’re trying to organize is getting future and come out happy and suc- teenagers and retired people to come cessful? To this end, we have learners together to make things – anything from examine positive and negative conversation to calligraphy. aspects of school. They look at the Greg: Families in Japan reach out relationship between teachers to international schools to provide and learners and, through their children with learning discussion and exploration, paths that are otherwise not propose how positive change available to them: creativity, can be made. They begin to independence, and critical see how to make changes in thinking being among those. their communities. Both our mainstream and Greg: AJE was designed AJE programs offer these with the notion that we cre- experiences. We also host ate opportunities for our more and more interna- kids to become inspired to tional students seeking learn about, in particular, the same opportunities things that inspire them. to discover the world in It’s a simple notion, but different ways. As a result, it breeds relevancy. all participants can experi- Consequently, we strive to ence authentic instances of ensure that AJE programs socio-cultural difference. are experiential first. More info at www.japaninter- nationalschool.com

40 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Ages newborn to 6 years

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 41 People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

Bill Hersey and the age-defying Mick Jagger, circa 1988

n addition to having a lot of friends from all over the world people selling drugs, but don’t take a chance. No one needs that kind visiting Tokyo over the Christmas-New Year's holidays, I of trouble here. met a lot of interesting people for the first time. This added Joined friends from the Big Apple at a first-class holiday lunch up to spending a lot of time meeting and talking with peo- at the Grand Hyatt’s Oak Door. My fish and chips were excellent ple from all walks of life in a half a dozen or so of the city’s and not all that expensive. My four friends who arrived a little late Imany fine restaurants, coffee shops, and parks. Our groups were were loaded down with Christmas décor bags from a half a dozen always very international and we talked about everything from ter- Roppongi Hills bags and boxes. “Gifts for friends back home,” they rorism to (ugh!) Trump. told me, adding “Tokyo is really a marketing dream.” I suppose One conversation with a group of young Italian businessmen when you consider that about 1% of Japan’s 127 million people are working here regarding the perils of Roppongi really surprised me. big shoppers, this is true. If you visit the Shibuya and Roppongi Don One of them told me he and a few friends were lured to a well-known Quixotes, they’re almost always super busy with Chinese and South- Roppongi club by a couple of touts who work the streets around the east Asian tourists with big bags, boxes and even suitcases full of all Roi Building. They didn’t really like the club’s ambiance, so they de- kinds of things they bought to take back home. cided to have one drink and move on. But somehow someone had Even though there are only a small number of Christians in Ja- spiked their drinks and two of them woke up in a small dark street pan, thanks to marketing and promotions Tokyo was beautifully dec- several hours later. One was missing his watch and wallet and the orated for holidays and sales of gifts were up. An increase in tourism other just his wallet. They reported this and spent considerable time has helped. Let’s hope it keeps getting better all the time. In closing filling out a police report. It’s been a couple of weeks and they hav- this part of the column, my apologies to our Chinese friends for this en’t gotten anything back yet. I respect the police here, but it’s not late, but truly sincere congratulations on their New Year which was easy. The Roppongi scumbags who are into spiking drinks, pickpock- on January 28. eting, and the like really know what they’re doing. I know Tokyo’s one of the safest cities in the world, but it seems ALGERIAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTIONS like no matter where you travel nowadays, you should be careful. Algerian Ambassador Mohammed Bencherif and his wife Amira I'd also like to warn you about using drugs here. Most, including hosted their National Day Reception in their beautiful Arabic de- marijuana, are illegal and penalties are tough. I’m sure you can find signed Embassy/Residence in Minato-ku. Guests were a wall-to-wall

42 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER HAPPY BIRTHDAY SHIGA AT TSUKIJI JISAKU 1. Brazilian car racer J.P. Oliveira and his wife Haruka 2. Shiga’s mom Reiko, his son Christophe, the birthday guy Tsukasa Shiga, his wife Anna, their daughter Anastasia, and Anastasia’s friends Diria and Roman 3. Top Apple executive Kaoru Washitaki, his wife Hinatsu 1 2

3 4 6 7

10 ALGERIAN 62ND NATIONAL DAY 4. The hosting couple, Algerian Ambassador Mohamed Bencherif, his wife Amira 5. Gospel singer Alex Easley, photographer Benjamin Lee 9 6. Toshio and Fumiko Motoya, the couple behind all the APA Hotels you see everywhere 7. Egyptian Ambassador Ismail Khairat, Kuwait Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi 8. Algerian Ambassador Bencherif, 11 German Ambassador Hans Carl Freiherr Von Werthern 9. Bill and Japan Football Association head coach Vahid Halilhodzic 10. Gaimusho’s Deputy Director Gen- eral Middle East and Africa Affairs Bureau, Katsuhiko Takahashi, his wife Mami, and Amira Bencherif

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 43 WINE NIGHT AT MIDTOWN OAKWOOD 1. Nandan Mer, Alok Rakyan, Ikuko Yasutomi, Paul Mortensen, Chiyuki Shimamoto 2. Todai University’s Phil Stilwell, Saguri Ishida 1 2 5

3 4 8

OMAN’S GLITTERING 6 NATIONAL DAY 9 RECEPTION 3. The hosting couple Oman Ambas- sador Khalid Al-Muslahi, his dynamic wife Aisha Abeer 4. Kuwaiti Ambas- sador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi, his wife Jamilah 5. Indian Association of Japan President Dr. Sanjay Mehrotra, popular politician Kazuyuki Ham- ada 6. Min-On Concert Association President Hiroyasu Kobayashi, 10 Timor-Leste Ambassador Filomeno Aleixo da Cruz 7. Yuko Hayashi (wife 11 of the Yemen Ambassador to Japan), Bill, Trends International’s Nobuko Saito, Tamy Ozeki 8. Hisanaga Shimazu, visiting Omani Royal family member Sayyid Munthir Al Busaid, Takako Shimazu (sister of the Emperor) 9. Maali Siam (Palestine), her son Amr, his friend Monika 10. Jordan Ambassador Demsye Haddad, his wife Shifa, Metropolitan Police’s Toshihiko Matsumaru 11. Takako Shimazu, Bosnia & Herzegovina Ambassador Anesa Kundurovic, Hisanaga Shimazu

44 | FEBRUARY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER crowd of diplomats, government officials, business leaders, sports Michael. We lost two great ladies in films over the holidays as well. figures, art, fashion and Algerian students studying and working in I’d never met Debbie Reynolds, but got to know her daughter Carrie Japan. It was nice seeing two friends who dress as far-out as I do Fisher when she was here with Mark Hamill and Harrison Ford to pro- – noted gospel singer Alex Easley and international photographer mote the first Star Wars. Thanks to friends at Toho, I could set up a Benjamin Lee. Benjamin travels a lot and was just back from Europe private screening of an Akira Kurosawa film that the Star Wars stars and we talked about his work and experiences there. I also talked wanted to see. It went OK, but Kurosawa-san joined us about 15 min- with two Japanese friends who are unconventional dressers: Toshio utes after the very long film was running. The only problem was that and Fumiko Motoya. She’s the lady who always wears a hat. She and Harrison had jet lag and I had to quietly wake him up several times. her husband own the huge APA Hotel Chain, and she’s the poster girl Sorry about all the name dropping but that’s part of the job, and for many of their billboards and other advertisements. If you are as even I find it difficult to realize how many wonderful people I’ve met successful as the Motoyas you can get away with wearing anything. over the years. I know I may come off like a groupie, but, as the line in I noticed one tall foreigner I didn’t know getting a lot of atten- Barbara Streisand’s famous song goes: “People who like people are the tion, so I walked over and introduced myself. He spoke French, and luckiest people in the world.” I really feel my friends don’t have to be I don’t, but we were able to communicate enough to exchange name superstars. They just have to be nice, thoughtful and interesting and cards and take a photo. He turned out to be Japan Football Asso- there are so many out there – really good people from all walks of life ciation’s head coach, Vahid Halilhodzic, a really cool man. I was who left us. also happy to meet the new Egyptian Ambassador, Ismail Khairat. A classic example whom some of you might have met was Jane He was really surprised to hear I had visited his marvelous country Yonamine. This beautiful, always chic lady was married to baseball 15 times, had coffee with former Egyptian First Lady Jehan Anwar legend Wally Yonamine. Jane and he were both born in Hawaii, and Sadat, greeted President Anwar Sadat sitting in a chair at their gar- spent many of their later years there and in Japan. She was the first den by the Nile, and had a great seat for Frank Sinatra’s concert in Japanese-American to go into the pearl business, back in 1964. Her front of the Pyramids and the Sphinx that night. Tokyo shop is on the fifth floor of the art shop building at Roppongi Crossing, right across the street from the busy police box there. She OMAN’S SUPER CELEBRATION – PALACE HOTEL ran the shop for 53 years, and with her outgoing personality, she made it a must-visit for anyone who wanted the highest quality pearls avail- For their big celebration of Oman’s National Day, the popular couple able. The walls in her shop are covered with photos of the many celebs Ambassador Khalid Al-Muslahi and his wife Aisha Abeer hosted a mid- and other VIPs who were her customers and friends. These included day reception in one of the ballrooms of the luxurious Palace Hotel’s our mutual friend Elizabeth Taylor, other showbiz luminaries, busi- Yamabuki Room. ness leaders, top government officials, and royalty. The Al-Muslahis have many friends from all walks of life, includ- In addition to being a great mother to her son Paul and daughters ing one of our city’s most popular couples, Takako Shimazu, the sis- Amy and Wallis, she was a good businesswoman and a great friend. ter of the Emperor and her husband, Hisanaga. I also was happy to Jane was a real philanthropist as well who not only helped many see both Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi and his wife worthwhile causes – which included their church, the Franciscan Jamilah, both back from their gorgeous and super nice daughter Chapel, and their children’s schools (St. Mary’s and Sacred Heart) – Hala’s wedding in Kuwait City. Another special guest at the Oman she also reached out and helped many new expat wives learn to adjust celebration was a young man from Oman’s royal family, Sayyid to living in and loving Japan. She also paid for many boxes of clothes, Munthir Al Busaid. Oman, according to world traveler Lilo Maruy- toys, and medicine that I sent to the less fortunate in the Philippines ama, is a dream destination. Hope to meet Sayyid in this very special and Papua New Guinea, and she gave me pearl bracelets for the little country later this year. girls at my annual orphans party at the Tokyo Hilton. Kudos to the Omanian embassy chef who’s from Lebanon, and the Jane passed away peacefully in Los Angeles on December 5, hotel’s food and beverage department. They worked together on pre- 2016, surrounded by her family – this includes seven grand-chil- paring the beautiful buffet of Arab, Japanese and Western favorites. dren and four grandchildren. Jane’s daughter-in-law Lynda is now Like anything Khalid and Abeer do, it was an elegant, colorful, and running the Pearl shop in memory of Jane and Wally. Thanks to her thoroughly enjoyable event. and many others for the memories, friendship, and support – God bless their souls. GOD BLESS THEM ALL On a happier note, I’d like to say congratulations to Mick Jagger, I, like all of you, know it’s all a part of life, but still find it difficult to who celebrated the birth of Deveraux Octavian Basil, his eighth child, in write about when good friends pass away. 2016 was a tough year December. Still full of mojo at 73, Mick doesn’t just have “Sympathy with the loss of a lot of people I had the privilege of knowing. for the Devil” – he might have made a deal with him for all that These included superstars Prince, David Bowie, and George youthful vigor! Here’s to more good news like this in 2017.

Chief Rabbi Binyomin Edery of Tokyo and four of Steven Haynes and his nephew Shaka Haynes with In Hiroo: Someone who’s not afraid his nine children at National Azabu during the Dermazone's Atsushi Sudo at Shibuya Segafredo to make an ass of himself Hanukkah holiday

TOKYO WEEKENDER | FEBRUARY 2017 | 45

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