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Issue No. 212 Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Pride: Unlikely It’s time YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 Hopes for Serbian designer to get [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 a third peaceful heads to kids BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 parade New York active

Page 4 Page 9 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Austerity Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough US Embassy declares EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser not over - - - ‘violent’ nightclubs off-limits for SerbiaNEWS despite American diplo- NEWS mats and military recovery “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: have been warned party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. not to visit three Positive economic trends and IMF Belgrade night- page 10 clubs where it says support leave foreigners are ‘tar- no room for geted’. complacency, as hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. budget-tightening W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, Saša DRAGOJLO and unpopular

he US Embassy has de-

reforms are not page 5 clared three Belgrade nightclubs - Plastic and over for Serbia, Mr Stefan Braun and Šlep – off limits to US experts warn. officers, embassy staff and their families.

T conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the “The US Embassy in Belgrade in- Stevan VELJOVIĆ After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party forms US citizens that as a safety pre- E caution due to violence targeting for- he IMF review of Serbia’s eigners, the following splavs and clubs economic performance, have been declared ‘off-limits’ for US presented late in August, citizen officers, staff, and dependent showed that results in Friday • June 13 2008 family members who are under Chief some areas had surpassed of Mission Authority in Serbia,” the em- Texpectations. bassy wrote in an email on August 12th. Serbia’s “economic recovery exceed- ed expectations, supported by efforts THIS ISSUE OF Continued on page 5 Around 20 per cent of security staff at Belgrade clubs are working informally. Photo: Flickr/ Olle Svensson to strengthen public finances, advance Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED structural reforms and boost invest- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic ment confidence,” the executive board which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T of the International Monetary Fund wrote in a press release following the Macedonia’s ‘Gulenists’ fear combined fourth and fifth reviews of Serbia’s economic performance under a Stand-By Arrangement, completed on Turkey’s long arm August 31st. While better-than-expected results are mostly related to economic growth, Turkish word for noticeable place] for a Asked whether Macedonia would increased tax revenues and a lower- Publication of a Turkish black list, naming terrorist cell. indeed shut schools and other organi- than-planned budget deficit, the IMF several agencies, schools and companies in However, there is no humour in An- sations allegedly linked to Gulen, as warned that reforms to state-owned kara’s pressure on Macedonia to take Ankara demands, Macedonia’s For- companies, and the level of public debt, Macedonia as ‘Gulenist’, has left members of action against Gulen’s real or alleged eign Minister, Nikola Poposki, gave an remain concerning. followers. oblique response. Experts say that although fiscal con- those organisations deeply worried. Members of organisations linked to Macedonia supports the legitimately solidation has produced results and that the cleric in Macedonia now fear being elected Turkish authorities, he said in the economic recovery is better than This is how the company secretary connected to the failed coup and stig- on August 24th, without specify- expected, the era of austerity is not yet Vlado APOSTOLOV explained the location of a travel agen- matised. ing whether there would be shutdowns over. cy in the old part of Skopje that recently They also worry that the Macedo- or not. Some important reforms, such as the s soon as you found itself on Turkey’s black list of al- nian authorities may accede to the "We will cooperate with the gov- rationalisation of the public adminis- pass the de- leged “Gulenists”. demands of Turkish President Recep ernment in Ankara in helping them tration and the restructuring of state partment store, Ankara claims that supporters of Tayyip Erdogan to hunt them down. achieve their goals, of course in accord- owned companies, have yet to be imple- at the very en- US-based Muslim cleric Fetullah Gulen Late in July, Turkey sent requests to ance with our laws,” Poposki added. mented. trance of the was behind the failed coup in Turkey several Balkan countries urging them Turkish bazaar, in July. to close schools and other organisa- on“A the right side, you will see a large Some Turks in Skopje may joke that tions allegedly connected to Gulen’s sign reading ‘Bashak.’” the tourist agency is a pretty “achik” [a Hizmet movement. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

ent or opposing parties is not realistic in Serbia,” he said. However, he said doubted that Serbia’s Janković would be a good joint oppo- Balkan leaders revive sition candidate because he is not so widely known. “Janković could win in Mikser House opposition [an arts and cultural centre in Belgrade], nationalism for political but in my village, nobody knows who he is,” he explained. seeks viable RIGHT-WINGERS’ MINDS advantage MADE UP Right-wing parties have mostly al- presidential ready decided who their candidates for Gjenero argued that the vote is clear- the presidency will be next year. The increased ly a “trial balloon for a referendum on Former war crimes defendant Vo- independence” - something that Dodik jislav Šešelj will be the candidate of his nationalist has said he will consider. contender Serbian Radical Party, SRS, while Boško Aleksić meanwhile suggested that Obradović will run on behalf of his rhetoric in Dodik was trying to draw attention Dveri party. away from his internal political prob- Obradović insisted that he is the only , Serbia lems in governing the entity. mature announcement could jeopard- authentic right-wing contender, claim- “It looks like Dodik has a lot of ques- Although ise his or her chances of victory. ing that Šešelj is not an opposition can- and Bosnia is a tions to answer to the public about busi- Bojan Pajtić, the president of the didate, but a “candidate of Aleksandar ness frauds and the economic catastro- Serbia’s liberal Democratic Party, DS, told BIRN that Vučić”. ploy by some phe in Republika Srpska. One day, the a joint candidate who could be sup- He ruled out the possibility of a joint residents will understand what is going pro-European ported by opposition parties, civil so- candidate with the pro-European op- politicians on and he probably will not be able to ciety and prominent public figures is a position. escape into nationalism,” Aleksić said. opposition necessity. “A joint opposition candidate is only to win votes “However, I would not want to cite possible on the basis of a common plat- VUČIĆ’S MOUTHPIECES agrees that a any names, since it is dangerous for po- form. Such a platform does not exist for at upcoming tential candidates because of the way the time being,” he said. Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar joint presidential the regime deals with political oppo- Current President Nikolić’s mandate elections and by Vučić has mostly tried to sound re- nents and people who do not think like expires in May 2017, but he has not yet strained and statesmanlike in com- candidate is its they do,” Pajtić said. announced whether or not he will run others to distract ments aimed at his Croatian or Bosnian Dragan Šutanovac, his party col- for another term. counterparts, but several of his min- best chance of league who will also be his opponent at During his four years as president, from economic isters have used aggressive language, the DS’s internal elections on Septem- Nikolić lost a lot of his popularity, falling victory next th problems, experts fuelling additional disputes. ber 24 , agrees with the idea of a joint into the shadows of Vučić, while many Serbia’s Labour Minister Aleksandar year, it remains candidate, but also insists that it is too experts have suggested the two are not argue. Vulin has said that “Croatia is sinking early to name names. enjoying the best of relations. into madness” and has on numerous “We need first to do an analysis on Democratic Party rally in 2012. Photo: Wikimedia Commons Panović says that it is of huge impor- occasions called the Zagreb govern- wary of showing who could be the most suitable candi- tance who will have Vučić’s support ment “fascistic”. date and then decide,” Šutanovac said, pendent opposition presidential can- date expires next year right just before and be “his” candidate. Saša DRAGOJLO Foreign Minister Ivica Dačić mean- its hand by adding however that he is against co- didate. the presidential elections, but he has “If Vučić sticks with the decision not to while recently accused Bosniak poli- operation with Eurosceptic right-wing The most frequently mentioned declined to say whether he might see be a candidate, it will be interesting to see his summer’s escala- ticians of being responsible for the naming possible parties. name is that of current Serbian Om- himself in a political role in the future. who will have his support,” Panović said. tion of heated national- attack on Prime Minister Aleksandar The head of the Social Democratic budsman Saša Janković, who is widely "We have a healthy president [work- Serbia’s Trade and Telecommunica- ist exchanges between Vučić at the Srebrenica commemora- contenders. Party, SDS, Boris Tadić, who was presi- seen as a well-respected figure with a ing] to full capacity whose position is tions Minister Rasim Ljajić announced officials from Croatia, tion in 2015, while also often reminding dent from 2004 until 2012, has also good public reputation for pointing out stable. At this moment, making bids in May that he will run in the presiden- Serbia and Bosnia and Croatian President Kolinda Grabar Kitarović and Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić. Photo: Beta Croatian officials about Jasenovac, the called on “the democratic and Euro- numerous government irregularities about what each of us will do in the tial race, while it is expected that Foreign WWII concentration camp where some Saša DRAGOJLO pean oriented parties” to run a joint during his mandate. future is not good for the presidential Minister and Socialist Party leader Ivica THerzegovina The Social Democratic Party leader Relations were additionally soured 100,000 people have died, mostly candidate next year, adding that the Most recently, after examining police position in a situation in which we have Dačić will also be one of the candidates. has been an The political was not careful with his language when when the Croatian judiciary scrapped Serbs, Roma and Jews. any see the presi- presidential elections could be a “turn- documents and listening to recordings weak institutions," Janković told N1 TV According to an opinion survey by unpleasant talking about Serbia at the time. He was the guilty verdict convicting former Aleksić claimed that Vučić’s “wise dential elections ing point of crucial importance for the of police telephone conversations, in August. the New Serbian Political Thought flashback to elites have been even less so a couple of weeks back major-general Branimir Glavaš of war silence” is just a tactic because, consid- in mid-2017 as the future of this country". Janković accused the Serbian police BIRN contacted Janković for a com- think tank in July this year, if Vučić ran the rhetoric when he was caught on tape describ- crimes against Serbs, and when the Za- ering the centralised nature of his gov- Serbian opposi- “There are several candidates with of being complicit in unsanctioned ment, but he responded that he does for the presidency himself, he would of the Yu- keeping their ing Serbia as “a handful of miserable greb authorities approved a monument ernment, there was no chance that his tion’s chance to all their advantages and disadvantages, demolitions in Belgrade’s not have anything new to say on the win 31.9 per cent of the votes. goslav war people” and as to Miro Barešić, who was convicted by ministers were doing anything without counter the pow- but we have to agree upon one," Tadić district on the night between April 24th topic. Dačić and former Serbian Foreign years. citizens in a “a big sh**”, causing angry reactions in the Swedish courts of the assassina- his consent. Mer of the ruling Serbian Progressive Par- said on September 3rd. and 25th. Zoran Panović, a political analyst and Minister Vuk Jeremić, who is currently But while the violent potential of na- both Belgrade and . tion of Yugoslav ambassador Vladimir “They are just puppets who speak in- ty, SNS, and its leader and Prime Minis- Čedomir Jovanović, the leader of Lib- He said police refused on purpose to journalist, told BIRN that presidential a candidate for the position of UN sec- tionalism in the can never be constant state of Milanović also pledged that Croatia Rolović in Stockholm in 1971. stead of the centre of power - the prime ter Aleksandar Vučić, which dominate eral Democratic Party, LDP, also said on respond to calls from people who saw elections in Serbia are the generator of retary-general, would get around 14 per overlooked, experts claim that inflam- would not leave “the Croats alone with Serbia also protested after a court minister - and their words have to be parliament with almost 50 per cent of September 3rd that his party supported around 30 masked men armed with change, recalling that the SNS entered cent, while Nikolić would only get 11 per matory rhetoric is just a method that national tensions the Bosniaks in Bosnia and Herzego- in Zagreb annulled the conviction of seen just as one component of Vučić’s voters’ support. in principle a “dialogue on the modali- baseball bats and equipped with dig- government after current President cent, the survey suggested. the political elites are using to manipu- vina” if the Bosnian Serbs in Republika bishop Alojzije Stepinac, a prominent rhetoric, since it is difficult to imagine However, although the liberal pro- ties” of a joint opposition approach to gers tearing down buildings in the area Tomislav Nikolić beat Boris Tadić in the But in an indication of how much late the public for their own advantage. for decades. This Srpska seceded in a referendum, as supporter of Croatia’s Nazi-allied WWII that any of them speaks without even European parties mostly agree on the the presidential elections. which had been earmarked for the con- presidential race in 2012. progress any opposition candidate will The fact that Croatia’s parliamentary they have threatened to do. regime, to which Croatia countered by tacit permission from the PM,” Aleksić idea that a joint candidate would be the Meanwhile Saša Radulović, leader struction of the state-backed Belgrade Panović argued that a presidential have to make to have a chance of vic- elections are approaching has pushed is, in a certain way, Some analysts compared this to a pointing to the similar court rehabilita- said. best chance of winning the presidency, of the Dosta je bilo (Enough is Enough) Waterfront development project. victory foreshadows the result at par- tory, Tadić scored 6.6 per cent, Šešelj 4.4 Social Democratic Party leader Zoran statement by Croatian wartime Presi- tion of Draža Mihailović, the command- “The essential job of ministers is to they are reluctant to talk about possible movement, has said on several occa- Janković has been in the Ombuds- liamentary polls: “Cohabitation be- per cent and Obradović just 1.1 per cent, Milanović’s towards nationalist ex- a ‘ready-made’ dent Franjo Tuđman in the 1990s, in er of the Chetniks, the Serb forces which wear a grotesque nationalistic face and contenders’ names, arguing that a pre- sions that he would support an inde- man’s position since 2007 and his man- tween a president and a PM from differ- according to the survey. tremism, while the referendum threats mechanism which he claimed to support Bosnia collaborated with the Nazi occupiers. allow the prime minister to wear the made by Milorad Dodik, the president and Herzegovina’s territorial integrity, Jovo Bakić, a sociologist and a po- mask of a pro-European reformer,” he of Bosnia’s Serb-dominated entity Re- when they have but added that Croatia would want a litical analyst, told BIRN that poor rela- added. publika Srpska, are his way of covering part of it if Serbia seized some Bosnian tions between Croatia and Serbia have However, Vučić did wade into the up internal political problems with the nothing else to land. a knock-on effect in Bosnia and Herze- dispute himself in August, when he classic narrative about the survival of Davor Gjenero, a Zagreb-based politi- govina. wrote to European Commission Presi- Republika Srpska being endangered, offer.” cal analyst, suggested that if Milanović “This atmosphere is unhealthy and it dent Jean-Claude Juncker, EU foreign experts told BIRN. returns to the premier’s position after looks like the beginning of the 1990s. In affairs chief Federica Mogherini and EU They also claim that Serbia is far next month’s elections, he could dam- the Balkans, nationalism is politicians’ Enlargement Commissioner Johannes from ‘innocent’ in these disputes, since Stefan Aleksić, age the country’s position within the favourite weapon,” Bakić said. Hahn to accuse Croatia of implement- its officials were deeply involved in the a Belgrade-based EU. “Tensions between Belgrade and Za- ing anti-Serb policies and fomenting exchange of harsh words and mutual “Milanović is an outrageously irre- greb always make the situation in Bos- nationalism. accusations with Bosnia and Croatia, political analyst sponsible politician. He is a typical suc- nia suffer,” he added. Bakić thinks that Europe’s own eco- suggesting that Serbian Prime Minister cessor to Franjo Tuđman's rhetoric,” Republika Srpska’s President has nomic and political problems, fuelled Aleksandar Vučić deliberately used his Gjenero told BIRN. added fuel to already flame with the by the refugee crisis and Brexit, have ministers to voice the recriminations “This is, in a certain way, a ‘ready- “It is anti-European rhetoric… from a announcement that a referendum will strongly affected the increase in nation- so he could present himself as a force made’ mechanism when they have person who does not understand the be held in the entity on September 25th alist rhetoric in the Balkans. for peace and stability in the region. nothing else to offer,” he said. fundamental principles of the EU, and challenging the authority of Bosnia and “If the context was different, the situ- Stefan Aleksić, a Belgrade-based po- who speaks from a nationalistic posi- Herzegovina’s state-level Constitution- ation could not escalate like this. In Eu- litical analyst, argues that the national- TROUBLESOME TRIANGLE tion which overestimates the value of al Court. rope there is also the rise of nationalism ist narrative has been used by all post- one’s own tradition and the same time The referendum is intended to dem- and racism in all countries… In Yugoslav political elites since the early This cycle of recriminations started understates all others,” he said. onstrate public support among Bosnia’s we have the rise of [Marine] Le Pen’s Na- nineties. last December when the Croatian gov- Over the summer, Belgrade and Za- Serbs for holding their annual Day of tional Front and in Germany we have “The political elites have been keep- ernment, then led by Milanović, closed greb exchanged several diplomatic Republika Srpska on January 9th, after racist movements like the Alternative ing their citizens in a constant state of the border with Serbia over a dispute protest notes and yet more statements the Constitutional Court ruled last year for Germany,” Bakić explained. national tensions for decades,” Aleksić about which way refugees from the Mid- were made that were deemed offensive that the holiday was unconstitutional as “That makes Balkan nationalists say: told BIRN. dle East should travel towards the EU. by the other side. it was discriminative against non-Serbs. ‘Well, we are normal,’” he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Continued from page 1 Belgrade through Belgrade Pride: Hopes for the eyes of a Gen Y a third peaceful parade US Embassy The Belgrade Soon after I got to Belgrade, I noticed a fashion trend among Pride Parade will Serbian men - and it’s one that I still be held for a third declares can’t get used to. consecutive time after years of bans ‘violent’ episodes in which the man bag was the butt of the jokes. and violence – but In a 1999 episode of ‘Friends’, Ra- the organisers cau- chel tells lovable Joey that she nightclubs doesn’t know “if the world is ready tion that attacks on for you and your bag” when he falls for one in leather that he claims is LGBT people are “as handy as it is becoming”. off-limits Then there’s that episode of ‘Sein- still commonplace. feld’ where Jerry gets a “European carryall”, which he finally admits Natalia ŽABA Emma KRSTIĆ is simply a purse when a mugger h e n An American basketball player, snatches it from his grasp and a his year’s Belgrade out and Omar Thomas, then playing for Red lung over many a man’s policeman called to help doesn’t Stojanović argues the Serbian judicial system often leaves Photo: Beta Pride Week will run about, Star, was involved in a fight in Plastic in shoulder in Belgrade is a understand what it is exactly that the perpetrators of anti-LGBT violence unpunished. th very distinct fashion ac- has been stolen. from September 12 to remain 2012, but did not suffer serious injuries. cessory: the ‘man bag’; 18th, when it will con- cause of their gender or sexual orienta- rights, but the ongoing normalisation aware In 2013, several US citizens were in- a small pouch hanging Fast forward to 2016, and men’s clude with a parade tion at some point in their lives. has not gone far enough yet. of your volved in a fight with supporters of Red Sacross the chest on a single strap. bags are being touted on the pages through the centre of “That’s a pretty high percentage. Un- “During our meetings with [state] insti- “Wsurroundings, be vigilant, and take ap- Star football club, which resulted in one US Maybe I’m just being paranoid, but of Vogue as a must-have accessory. Tthe capital for a third consecutive year fortunately, due to the overall social tutions, we’re still noticing some discom- propriate steps to enhance your per- marine being hit on a head with a bottle. everywhere I turn, they seem to fall Their rise in popularity has been - a significant achievement after previ- climate, very few cases can be found in fort in communication. This relationship sonal security,” the embassy warns. One of the Red Star football fans in- into my line of sight. steadily growing by around three ous bans and attacks. front of the judges,” he said. is under the process of normalisation, In a written reply to a query from volved was Uroš Mišić, who had been per cent annually in recent years, Thinking I was perhaps just obsess- but in 2014, sales of men’s purses “This year’s parade, similar to the pre- He himself was attacked by two un- but it simply not enough, because the BIRN about the warning, the embassy jailed for for five-and-a-half years in ing over nothing, I nonchalantly saw an almost unbelievable jump vious ones, required immense prepa- known assailants in downtown Bel- representatives of the institutions must wrote: “The Embassy does not discuss 2007 for attacking a police officer at a asked four friends – male and fe- in the US of 47 per cent compared ration and the cooperation of the au- grade on August 22nd. recognise the significance and impor- security methods and means. It seeks football match. male – about their thoughts on Ser- to the previous year, according to thorities,” one of the organisers, Boban An investigation is still underway, tance of our cooperation,” he explained. to provide information which it be- In January 2015, a Turkish citizen bian style. They all noted the preva- data from market research com- Stojanović, told BIRN. but this time the attackers were cap- “When that happens, the LGBT com- lieves might help protect the security was shot in Plastic after stray bullets lence of this male accessory, too. pany NDP Group. “People very often ask what the tured by a CCTV camera, which makes munity will be stronger and accepted, of American citizens.” passed through a door as a result of meaning of this two-hour stroll is, and Stojanović hope that they will be identi- which is for the common good. It BIRN could not reach the three ven- a showdown between unidentified It is clearly more than a trend, it’s a In 2015, they were all over catwalks phenomenon. at designer fashion shows, most the answer lies in the fact that all the fied. sounds simple, but it is not,” he added. ues for a comment. groups in front of the club. notably Louis Vuitton; footballer relevant state institutions care about However he says that the Serbian ju- The first ever Belgrade Pride Parade Experts say the main safety issues In the turbo-folk and house nightclub While I can’t deny the practicality Cristiano Ronaldo and basketballer LGBT rights and that media are inter- dicial system often leaves the perpetra- in 2001 was disrupted by large num- concerning Belgrade nightlife are inad- Stefan Braun, two US Marines were of such an accessory – after all, eve- LeBron James were even spotted ested in it. We are very pleased that we tors of anti-LGBT violence unpunished. bers of far-right nationalists who at- equate controls over security staff who beaten up in the toilet back in 2009. ryone these days has wallets, gadg- carrying them. managed to make a central theme in “It happens really rarely that the at- tacked and beat up the participants. are often criminals, convicted football The club temporarily closed in 2012 ets, keys and whatever else to carry society out of one marginal topic,” he tackers are identified. And when that In 2010, the parade went ahead hooligans, or police working off duty because of bad installations and for around – but there’s just something But while the catwalk models and added. happens, the process may take too but several thousand young people - as well as sometimes aggressively security measures. Months after the al- about the male purse I can’t get on celebrity sportsmen are impec- board with. cably dressed head-to-toe in high- Pride Week, being staged for the third long, there are a number of hearings, caused mayhem on the streets, throw- drunk customers. leged closure, however, a fire erupted at end designer threads, the Serbian year in a row, kicks off at noon on Sep- and judges often do not recognise ha- ing stones and missiles, injuring police Mercer, one of the world's largest a party. It caused no injuries. Backpack, I like. Briefcase, I can approach seems to be more along tember 12 at one of Belgrade’s cultural tred as an integral element of these officers and setting buildings and vehi- HR consultancy firms, in 2016 named look past. Tote bag? Yes, if they’re the lines of ‘street style’, where Adi- hubs, Mikser House, and will include cases,” he argued. cles on fire. Belgrade as the second most danger- on the arm of a hipster. Cross-body das tracksuits often come into the debates and cultural and entertain- Legally recognising attacks on LGBT During the riots, 132 policemen and ous city in Europe after the Ukrainian bag? No. picture as well. ment programmes aimed at making people as a hate crime is crucial in or- 25 members of the public were injured, capital Kiev. However, that was not be- Reflecting on my strong opposition Inquiring with local friends as the general public more aware of the der to make a positive change to the while 250 people were arrested. cause of violence or crime but because to the look, perhaps I’ve just been to why Serbian men (and those situation in which LGBT people live in situation, he added. In 2009, 2011, 2012 and 2013, the of wide-scale corruption and bribery conditioned to dislike it. across the Balkans in general) have Serbia. Stojanović believes that Serbia and Pride marches were banned as the au- issues, as well as theft and vandalism. The main latched onto this look, one just Stojanović said that despite the fact neighbouring countries find it difficult thorities said they could not protect the The embassy decision is unlikely to Not only are man bags just a big no- shrugged her shoulders and said that Pride appears to have managed to understand the importance of pro- participants. result in Belgrade’s immediate exclu- safety issues no in Australia, where I come from, “it’s better than the last trend”. Ap- to establish itself as an annual event, tecting human rights. In 2014 and 2015, the marches passed sion from a top position on the world’s I also grew up watching a lot of two parently bum bags (or fanny packs violence against LGBT people remains “Human rights are seen as a nec- off without any incident, after senior -of party map. US sitcoms in particular: ‘Friends’ in American speak) worn clipped concerning (because everyone was) and ‘Sein- around the waist were a big thing. a big problem, while attacks are rarely essary evil, not as a norm, a value or ficials warned that violence would not Serbia’s capital has been declared feld’ (because my dad loved it), Knowing this, maybe the current registered as hate crimes. something meaningful for the whole of be tolerated and police maintained a a top nightlife destination numerous Belgrade and I clearly recall two specific look isn’t so bad? He claimed that around three-quar- society,” he argued. high-profile presence, deploying ar- times in recent years. Most recently, ters of the LGBT population in Serbia He said that there has been an im- moured vehicles and a helicopter to Business Insider on August 3rd included nightlife are has faced some kind of violence be- provement in the situation for LGBT prevent any attacks. Belgrade on their list of the 15 best party destinations in Europe. inadequate “Belgrade is renowned for its night- life scene with plenty of clubs to keep controls over ORDER DELIVERY TO partygoers entertained. During the YOUR DOOR summer, revellers in the Serbian capital security staff Predrag Petrović, executive director at the Belgrade Centre for Security Policy. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] head to the water to party on floating who are often Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ river clubs amid gorgeous views,” Busi- The US State Department travel PROBLEMATIC Until then, no regulation determined page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight ness Insider wrote. website, which contains information SECURITY STAFF the rules by which security firms and criminals, on different countries, does mention its employees could work. HISTORY sports-related violence in Serbia as an Predrag Petrović, from the Belgrade But most of the relevant by-laws needed OF INCIDENTS convicted issue that US citizens should be vigilant Centre for Security Policy, BCBP, told for the full implementation of the law were about. BIRN that one problem is inadequate not adopted until May 2014 and the dead- LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Although some clubs in Belgrade football “US citizens were not targets of any regulation of club security staff licens- line for training security staff was moved Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE th Address: Smetanina 12 have a reputation for violent incidents, hooligans, recent sports-related violence, but es, since around 20 per cent of bounc- from June 5 , 2015, to January 2017. MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION most clashes have been related to in a few isolated cases, soccer hooli- ers are working informally, “on the side”. Petrović says there is little chance Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD crime rather than to xenophobic at- or police gans and petty criminals singled out “We should have very strict controls of completing proper training by 2017, Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE tacks on foreigners. None of the clubs and attacked citizens of other West- in that field. The police are supposed noting that only 1,800 security staff and HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA SKVER 44 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 marked off-limits for US embassy is ern countries,” the travel website to make checks, but the problem is that only eight security companies have ob- Požeška 44a working off Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade considered particularly dangerous. wrote. they will always bump into some of tained licenses so far. Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 “Plastic, Stefan Braun and Šlep are US government employees are their colleagues [working in the clubs], An investigation published by the INTERGALACTIC DINNER duty - as well HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE not places that are known to be violent “strongly discouraged from attending earning extra money,” Petrović said. Centre for Investigative Journalism, Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 nor dangerous,” a source experienced most sporting events”, it added. He added that the bouncer “scene” is CINS, in March 2016, said around Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar as sometimes Mihajla Pupina 85A Address: Vase Pelagića 48 in the club business told BIRN, empha- “Belgrade nightclubs are increasingly often connected to the world of crime, 40,000 people work in the security in- CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF sizing that other Belgrade clubs and aggressively popular with foreign tourists,” it contin- which makes controls even more diffi- dustry in Serbia. Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac MIXER HOUSE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE splavs are deemed far riskier. ued. “If you decide to go to a nightclub, cult. “The drugs market and the market “It [licensing] will hardly be solved by Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 Plastic, which is well known for hip- drunk you should know that they can be in other criminal activities is protected that date, or it will be poorly done. The KOLARAC hop & rnb parties that attract foreign- crowded and may not be up to Western that way,” Petrović said. security companies are using this as an Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 ers, has, however, seen some violent customers. standards for maximum occupancy Serbia’s parliament adopted a Law excuse not to even start the process,” Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 incidents linked to foreigners. and fire safety.” on Private Security in November 2013. Petrović concluded. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 Moscow Days coming to COMMENT Belgrade

A business-cultural exchange program called “Days of Moscow” is coming to the Matematička gimnazija: Austerity not over for Serbia Serbian capital on October 3rd and will last through th

October 7 . Belgrade officials in brief Belgrade confirmed that Moscow Serbia’s academic bright spot despite recovery Mayor Sergei Semjonowitsch Sobyanin is leading a large Russian delegation. Numerous erbia is now in the second biggest risk for the country’s public fi- exhibitions, concerts, festivals year of a three-year precau- nances. and sports events will take tionary Stand-By Arrange- Excessive employment, below-mar- place, and local authorities ment, worth €1.2 billion, ket prices for their products, technical are expecting large crowds. which the IMF approved in losses, high debts and low investment The program, aimed at February 2015. are the major problems facing these improving relations not only SWith a fiscal deficit rising to 6.6 per companies, which present a potential between the two capitals, but cent of GDP at that time and public danger for public finances if their liabili- between the two countries as debt exceeding 70 per cent of GDP, well ties fall on the state. well, will be held at various above the legal ceiling of 45 per cent, the Vučković insists that further delay in locations across Belgrade. government pledged to restore sound solving the problems of EPS, including public finances with the help of IMF low prices and surplus labour, is danger- Belgrade monitoring. ous for the Serbian budget, having in mind plans new look for The reform agenda that Serbia agreed that the company’s debt has increased by old buildings to implement included cuts in pensions €250 million to over €1.15 billion. and public-sector wages, and - starting “Serbia’s public finances do not have Local authorities said they from November 2014 - pensions and the capacity to bear the burden of EPS will start reconstructing salaries in the public sector over 25,000 malfunctioning, or to take on their huge decrepit building facades dinars [€203] were cut by between 3 and liabilities,” he insisted. in the city centre at the 20 per cent and 10 to 20 per cent respec- While stressing the need to acceler- end of October, adding that tively. ate the restructuring of state companies new walls will be painted Other planned reforms were a reduc- that pose a fiscal risk, the IMF Represent- white or beige. In addition tion in aid to state-owned enterprises, ative noted on September 2nd that com- to the facade beautification, strengthening the financial sector and panies like EPS and Srbijagas had made some buildings will have improving competitiveness through re- some progress by adopting optimisation decorative lighting added. forms that include improving the busi- and financial consolidation plans. Buildings in downtown’s ness environment and completing the The increase in October in the price of Karađorđeva Street are first privatisation process. electricity of 3.8 per cent, the second rise in line for remodeling; many since August 2015, is only a part of a solu- of these facades are in a poor RECOVERY EXCEEDED tion to EPS’s huge problems. condititon and pose a serious EXPECTATIONS Other measures contained in the fi- threat to passersby. The local nancial restructuring plan adopted in administration pledged quick Unlike the case in some previous June 2015 include enhanced bill collec- action on the work. years, when economic growth was tion rates, reducing technical losses and Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić announced some loosening in fiscal policy, which will be Photo: Flickr/Franz Johann Morgenbesser fuelled by imports and high govern- staff cuts. September in discussed with the IMF in October. Belgrade: celebrating ment consumption, this year’s eco- According to the IMF report on the European heritage nomic growth of 2.5 per cent of GDP This assertion contrasts with the said he expected the government to and pensions at the present level, as fourth and fifth review under the Stand- Year after year, the school churns out positive news: alumni routinely achieve great success at the world’s best universities. Photo: Facebook - 0.7 per cent higher than was planned, views of the IMF, however. The Fund find a compromise with the IMF that these expenditures still exceed the eco- By Arrangement, “the EPS supervisory European Cultural Heritage is based on more sustainable founda- insists that Serbia's public sector, which would allow for a certain increase, as nomic capacities of the country. board has adopted, in consultation with Days will be celebrated with tions, such as increased exports and already cut 16,000 staff from the end of happened at the end of 2015, when sala- The Council’s calculations show that the World Bank, a credible 2016-2019 op- a number of activities across Year after year, the school churns school), the teaching staff has fought Most impressively, our teachers, as investments. 2014 until May 2016 as a prior action for ries in education, health care, the army freezing salaries in 2017 would reduce timisation plan with no less than 1,000 Belgrade from September One school’s grit out positive news: alumni routinely hard for its experimental, maths and a rule, were friendly, respectful, and The budget deficit, initially projected the third review, should fall by another and the police rose by 2 to 4 per cent and state expenditure on salaries in the pub- staff position reductions in 2016”. 23rd to October 2nd. This will achieve great success at the world’s small-group-tuition-model of educa- constantly tried to meet our intellec- at around 4 per cent of GDP, or 164 bil- 6,500 employees. pensions by 1.25 per cent. lic sector to 8 per cent of GDP in 2018, a This figure is only a part of the esti- be 14th consecutive year that and ambition best universities- one alumnus is a tion to be recognised by state authori- tual needs. They provided ever more lion dinars [€1.33 billion], is expected to A probable solution would be to in- level the Council deemed sustainable. mated labour surplus in EPS, however, the Serbian capital is taking former mayor of Belgrade, and Silicon ties, and, more pressingly, be kept fi- advanced science and maths educa- be around 2 per cent by the year’s end, AUSTERITY STILL REQUIRED crease pensions and salaries by 2 to 3 Currently, Serbia’s spending on salaries which is probably several times higher. part in the simultaneous created a Valley is awash with them- and there nancially afloat. The passionate math tion. In their spare time, helped us set thanks to higher growth rates, increased per cent in order to fulfil the PM’s prom- exceeds this target for over 1 per cent of The IMF also envisages change in event happening across the is a constant stream of successes at and science teachers have fought for up various school clubs and maga- tax revenues, including VAT and excis- Milan Ćulibrk, economic analyst ise, he indicated. GDP. the legal status of EPS to a joint stock European continent. During stepping-stone international maths and science Ol- their school for decades instead of re- zines. They routinely went out of their es, and some short-term effects, such as and editor-in-chief of the weekly NIN, “Economic growth of 2.5 per cent is The share of spending on pensions company by July 1st, 2017, “with an aim that time, more than 150 ympiads. Amazingly, all this achieve- signing themselves to relying solely ways to fuel our ambitions, suggesting revenues earned from licenses for the said he was not surprised by the IMF’s better than anyone could have expect- in GDP terms is currently above 12 per of attracting minority private invest- programmes will be prepared to the world’s ment and recognition comes from on the meagre support of the belea- alumni to contact for help in getting 4G network. positive review, given Serbia’s solid eco- ed, but it is still the lowest growth rate in cent, while the Law on the Budget pre- ment participation that could further for visitors, all free of charge. the woefully underfunded Serbian guered Serbian state. into our preferred schools, drafting As the budget also contained a sur- nomic performance, but added that he the region, apart from Croatia,” he noted. scribes a maximum level of 11 per cent. enhance the corporate governance and There will be workshops, best universities state education and science system. Since the 1990s, a period of sanc- recommendation letters and, most im- plus of 22 billion dinars [€178. million], expects the IMF will insist on continued “There is no reason for euphoria or for “If the government holds back from viability of the company and ensure its exhibitions, guided This year, the school is celebrating tions and hyper-inflation, they relent- portantly, celebrating our successes Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić an- rationalisation, having in mind that job jumping to the hasty conclusion that we increasing pensions both in 2017 and professional management.” sightseeing tours, kids’ for Serbia’s its 50th birthday and, as an alum, I am lessly fundraised to allow students to and cheering us up if we failed. nounced some loosening in fiscal poli- cuts in the public sector had been fewer solved all our problems and can return 2018, it would make fiscal cuts of anoth- The government has denied planning programmes, film screenings, still in awe of the school’s achieve- attend to international competitions. Although by no means unique to cy, which will be discussed with the IMF than expected. to old ways of spending more than we er 2 per cent of GDP,” Vučković said, add- to privatise EPS and has avoided tak- radio and TV shows as well as math-loving ments. Its unique ethos makes it a The school even opened an addition- “Matematička”, their attitude was in October. Commenting on announced pension create,” he added. ing this would be economically justified. ing a clear stand on the issue of surplus programmes for the disabled. great case study of how excellence al, highly selective fee-paying class to markedly different from the mix of On September 1st, Vučić men- and salary increases, which the govern- Serbia’s Fiscal Council, the independ- labour levels. However, the IMF docu- Additionally, a number of youngsters. can be achieved with the right atti- cover the school’s relatively high ex- boredom, helplessness and resent- tioned increases in pensions and ment will discuss with the IMF, Ćulibrk ent state body that monitors public REFORMS WITHOUT DELAY ment indicates that such considerations Belgrade’s cultural institutions tude and enough grit. penses (this was abolished in 2008). ment that I occasionally experienced salaries because o f finances, in its analysis of the consolida- are not completely misplaced. will open their doors to The achievements are remarkable, Throughout the school’s 50 years, and heard about from friends at other Serbia’s sounder tion and reforms, has reiterated that it Apart from controlling salaries and As Ćulibrk noted, Serbian officials ear- promote the city’s rich cultural whether considered in a Serbian or a they’ve maintained close relation- schools (to illustrate, one of my pri- public financ- There is no reason is too early to increase public spending, pensions, which have been under scru- lier denied media reports about a future heritage. global context. A state school, with an ships with the alumni network, an un- mary school teachers had a habit of es. “We are not given the unsustainably high level of tiny so far, the most urgent challenge for price rise for months, even though it had annual enrolment of 100 science-lov- common practice in Serbia. This net- reminding my class of how little she talking about for euphoria or public debt, equivalent to around 78 per the government is to sort out the public been agreed and written in a document Serbian jumping ing 14-year-olds from across Serbia, work is an invaluable resource: they was paid per student, and she was not some distant cent of GDP. and state-owned companies. with the IMF signed by several top of- queen jumps in manages to consistently get around help current students with career an exception). future, this for jumping to the Vladimir Vučković, a member of the The Fiscal Council identified three ficials. Belgrade 5% of its students into Cambridge and advice, often return to school to teach Although “Matematička” has room will happen Fiscal Council, said there is no danger of public companies – the power utility “Having this in mind, we can expect other top global universities. and occasionally assist with funding. to improve in supporting non-science in the next two hasty conclusion a public debt crisis right now, but warned EPS, the gas utility Srbijagas and Serbian our officials in the future to publicly Ivana Španović, a 26-year- Matematička gimnazija students The belief in intellectual excellence interests, shifting youngster’s focus months,” he said. that Serbia is not completely safe from Railways - and large companies under- deny something that has to be done, and old Serbian long jumper routinely win coveted medals in in- and difference as an asset permeates away from winning competitions and A day later, Sebastian Sosa, the IMF that we solved all that danger. He insisted that the key to going privatisation, such as RTB Bor, which has already been agreed with the who won a bronze medal ternational maths, physics and other the school. Although my ego has yet developing softer skills, the utter dedi- Representative in Belgrade, confirmed permanent and sustainable debt reduc- Resavica and HIP Petrohemija, as the IMF”, Ćulibrk predicted. at the Rio Olympics in science competitions. The school to recover from being surrounded cation of its staff and their willingness that this would be one of the topics for our problems and tion is to cut the budget deficit. August, will be jumping at achieves this without the extensive by truly brilliant people better than to protect what they hold valuable, the next visit of the IMF mission in Oc- The Council’s analysis shows that cut- Belgrade’s on Sunday, extracurricular and university prep me in the things I considered my should and does serve as an inspira- tober. can return to old ting the deficit to around 2.5 to 3 per cent ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ September 11th, as part of programmes offered at many private greatest strengths, it was soothing to tion to many in Serbia and the region. “On one hand, better results and fis- would allow Serbia to sustain its debt at ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” a promotional event for the Srđan GARČEVIĆ schools in the UK and the US. be surrounded by 14-year-olds who In a country where things were fall- cal position will be taken into account, ways of spending the present level but not reduce it. RESTAURANT KOVAČ upcoming European Indoor These feats are accomplished be- believed that enjoying doing maths ing apart less than 20 years ago- one and on the other, the need to continue “The optimal solution is to reduce modern ethno restaurant Athletics Championships in elgrade’s Matematička cause of a guiding principle that has and science was great, and even com- student tragically died in the NATO reducing public debt in the medium more than we the deficit to 0.5 per cent in 2019, which Belgrade next March. Along gimnazija (Mathemati- permeated the school from the be- peted in these notoriously nerdy ac- bombing- and where even now many of term,” Sosa explained. means that the ratio of public debt to with Španović, four other long cal High School) is a ginning: a firm belief that developing tivities. us espouse a very defeatist attitude, the At the same time, the new Minister create.” GDP would decrease yearly by 2.5 per jumpers will be competing rare Serbian institution, bright minds needs a different, almost Needless to say, many of my class- example set by Matematička gimnazija of Public Administration and Local cent. in front of the Hotel Moscow. along with athletes and individualised approach, and that all mates’ preferred activities and man- reminds us that grit and ambition can Government, Ana Brnabić, said on Sep- Milan ĆĆulibrk, “With this dynamic, it is possible to get Apart from watching long cuisine, which receives the required effort to provide that nerisms- introversion, odd conver- and do make a huge difference, even if tember 2nd that fiscal consolidation al- debt below 70 per cent of GDP by 2020 jumps, kids will have a nearlyB unanimous national acclaim education is worth it. sation topics, lack of fashion sense, only to a group of nerdy youngsters. lowed for a breathing space in moves to economic analyst and and below 60 per cent by 2025,” he ex- chance to try out several and the school is protected from the From its founding in 1966, based on disinterest in sports- were not exactly reduce the state administration, adding editor-in-chief of the plained. different athletics disciplines, usual mud slinging of Serbia’s public the model of a similar maths-focused celebrated by average hormone-cra- Srđan Garčević is a writer and a founder of that pressure had lessened to further The key to achieving these goals is Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 weekly NIN www.restorankovac.com all free of charge. arena for good reasons. school in Moscow (Kolmogorov zy Belgrade teenagers. The Nutshell Times blog. rationalise it. seen as keeping public sector salaries 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 9 REGION FACES Continued from page 1 Unlikely Serbian designer heads to New York

Mićanović recalls her parents telling After aimlessly her. While working at the family market as bouncing be- a cashier, she finally completed courses in make up and tango dancing. Then she tween careers tried her hand at fashion design. Her parents were sceptical when for years, Marina Mićanović shared her plans to enrol in design school. Mićanović finally “Ok Marina, do you know at least some- thing about the people from this industry, found her call- do you know what kind of connections you need to have in order to make a ca- ing as a fashion reer as a fashion designer?” her father asked. designer and will She said she didn’t have a clue. She just wanted to try. It was a risk that paid off showcase her very early in her fashion career, starting with the admission interview. In July, Turkey’s Anadolu news agency published a list of schools and companies in Macedonia allegedly linked to Gulen. wardrobe at the “I have no background in design, no knowledge, no experience, I’ve tried al- upcoming New most everything in my life and I never found a thing I’d like to continue with,” York Fashion she told Accademia professors during her interview. She was accepted despite Week. her inexperience, and seeming lack of Macedonia’s ‘Gulenists’ professional persistence. Again, like so many times before, her Natalia ŽABA initial enthusiasm waned and within a few months she was seriously consider- lthough Belgrade na- ing dropping out of design school too. tive Marina Mićanović, “I didn’t know how to draw, and it was fear Turkey’s long arm 34, has been in the fash- the biggest problem for me to learn,” re- ion business for less calls Mićanović of her first steps into the than seven years, her design world. egarding the Everyone in his family, starting with “Although we hear some gossip newspaper, although he freely admits “Twenty years ago, there was no work has already been She says that with constant encourage- government's his great-grandfather, was born and [about this] in our surroundings, we admiring the preacher. objection to our business and now Apresented twice at the prestigious New ment from a dedicated professor and six decisions … any lived in Skopje. His father was known in cannot say anyone has threatened us “With the inspiration of this man, we have the support of many people,” York Fashion Week. months of constant practice, she man- decisions that town for selling handbags in the bazaar. yet; people do know us, after all,” Sha- many business people have chosen Tauk noted. This autumn, she will be featured as aged to master drawing. Two years later, we will make One of his bosses, a Turkish national, hin said. to follow the path to universal peace Yahya Kemal has been present in an individual designer for the first time at she graduated Accademia del Lusso. will be in com- Umar Farouk Alp - one of five owners through education, social science, hu- Macedonia for exactly 20 years and New York’s Fashion Week when her col- When she invited her family to a grad- “Rpliance with our laws and our national of Bashak - said he do not know why COMPARISONS DRAWN manities and media in 170 countries,” several thousand pupils attend class- lection will be presented on September uate fashion showcase at the end of her interests,” he continued. his company had been linked to coup WITH REICHSTAG FIRE he said. es in eight secondary and primary 13th as part of AMCONYC, a platform for course work, they looked at her differ- In July, Turkey’s Anadolu news agen- plotters. Osmani also said journalists should schools in Skopje, , , rising fashion designers and entrepre- ently. Marina’s long-term plan is to continue working in fashion design, and to ultimately leave Serbia for New York. Photo: Courtesy of Marina Mićanović cy published a list of schools and com- “I and my fellows would not raise a Ahmet Osmani, deputy editor of the not have to pay the price for the failed and . neurs. “Then they understood, this time it’s panies in Macedonia allegedly linked hand against anyone,” he said. “I do not weekly Zaman Makedonija, told BIRN coup in Turkey. The owners of the schools are seven But her journey to New York was not something serious,” recalls Mićanović. to Gulen. Bashak travel agency was know how we got on the list.” by email that they were appalled to be Blatant persecution of Erdogan’s op- individuals, one from Macedonia, one a direct path. Mićanović told BIRN that But finishing school is one thing and plains, adding many women in Serbia because the city is a goal for many in the branded a stronghold of Gulen’s “terror- Bashak has been in business in put on the Turkish government black ponents, he added, had already forced from Germany and five from Turkey. she went in numerous career directions making it in the highly competitive fash- stay within their so-called “comfort industry. ist organisation”. Macedonia since 2006. According to list. the closure of the French and Belgian Staffers at Yahya Kemal told BIRN before enrolling in the Belgrade branch ion world is something else entirely. zones”, and don’t follow their dreams be- She explains that in Serbia she can’t pizzeria In addition, it singled out the chain of Shahin, it is a reputed travel agency, "We are shocked and angry be- editions of Zaman newspaper, after that the owners did not want to be la- of Milan’s Accademia del Lusso design cause they are afraid of other’s opinions. find many customers, as her clothes do Yahya Kemal schools, the weekly Za- licensed to work in all fields of the cause they are blaming us for the they received death threats from sup- belled as Gulenists and had no financial school at the age of 27. CHARTING AN “There are women who actually ap- not follow the fashion sensibilities of rich "allo-allo" man Makedonija, as well as some other tourist sector, even to organise char- coup and equating us with terrorists,” porters of the Turkish authorities in ties to the cleric. After finishing secondary school, she AUTHENTIC COURSE preciate the patriarchal lifestyle, which customers. organisations and companies. ter flights. he wrote. these countries. However, they did not deny that they graduated from business school with a dominates in Serbia, and most of women “I was often advised to change my de- caffe Many locals in Skopje use Bashak “Journalism is transparent work and follow some of his ideas, especially his Bachelor’s degree in trade and market- What helped Mićanović find success in I know prefer to stay in their comfort signs, so the women were less ‘covered’, FAITH PINNED IN to arrange foreign holidays. However, everything we have published in these YAHYA KEMAL mantra that “only education can re- ing. the fashion world was the originality and zone, because it is safer and you won’t be it would be easier to sell, but there’s no MACEDONIA’S the agency is best known for bringing 22 years, everything is out there and SCHOOLS FEEL duce poverty and contribute towards Mićanović then switched to Belgrade boldness of her designs, and an unwaver- judged,” she adds. chance I compromise on it. My women SOVEREIGNTY foreign tourists to the country, mostly can be accessed,” he added. THE HEAT peace”. University’s Faculty of Political Science, ing commitment to her principles. She confesses that this was also her are covered, like in tango, she has a lot to Turks visiting Macedonia, and “Not once have we had a litigation That has not stopped supporters of where she finished a one-year course in What marks her clothing creations are problem not so long ago and that she cared offer and it takes time to discover her,” ex- Semi Shahin, the 33-year-old CEO of Kosovo. process in Macedonia; we have never The chain of Yahya Kemal schools in Ankara from demonstrating against the political studies and social work. After a singular asymmetry, daring colours and deeply about other people’s opinion of her, plains Marina. Bashak, told BIRN he hoped Macedonia The company says that business received a fine and have not ill-treated Macedonia is also on Anadolu’s black schools in Macedonia, however. that, she started sewing classes, took handmade details, like original ‘strips’, but thanks to her design and tango classes Marina admits that currently this would not surrender its independence. has not been affected yet by being put anyone,” he continued. list of organisations allegedly linked to At a rally held last month in support multiple language courses, learned salsa which she invented and has included in she managed to release herself. mindset isn’t very popular and most of “This is my country. I was born here and on the Turkish government’s black list “We have always been praised be- Gulen. of President Erdogan, a group of young dancing and took training courses in the her designs from the beginning. “I was very insecure when I was listen- her customers are foreigners who visit grew up in the bazaar,” he said. because their main tours from Turkey cause our publications bring together A spokesman for the schools, Surija people even tore up their Yahya Kemal care of handicap children. Mićanović says she creates clothes for ing to the others opinions about me and Belgrade’s designer shops. “You can’t imagine what it is like are organised in the spring and the au- various ethnic groups in the country.” Tauk, told BIRN that they had received diplomas in front of the school building. Her family was supportive through- women who are courageous, self–confi- my life. At one point I just turned them all However, she believes her time is yet to when someone comes from abroad tumn. Like the people from Bashak, he puts informal notice that Macedonia’s Min- The organiser of the protest, Tahsin out, but began slowly losing confidence dent and truly enjoy their authenticity. off and started secretly working on de- come. and persecutes us in our homeland. I The agency also adds that, so far, his faith in the fact that Macedonia is an istry of Education is maintaining its Ibrahim, said the protest was only the that she would ever find a vocation that “It might sound cliché, but we [Serbs] sign,” she remembers. “Now it’s perfectly clear my golden age Beograd hope Macedonia upholds the rule of Macedonia’s authorities have not con- independent, sovereign state. stance that the schools operate under start. would stick. still live in a quite closed society in which Marina’s long-term plan is to continue is about to start. When I was younger I Svetozara Markovica 19a law and [remembers] that sovereignty tacted them regarding the list pub- Osmani insisted that Gulen was not Macedonian law and are not at risk of “Many more diplomas will be torn “You can always come home and it is very important how others see you working in fashion design, and to ulti- didn’t realise it, but now I know what’s re- tel. 011/3246 947 is our greatest treasure.” lished by Anadolu. the owner, sponsor or manager of the closure. up,” he told BIRN at the time. work in a shop. It’s safe… a sure thing,” and what they say about you,” she ex- mately leave Serbia for New York, not just ally in me,” says Marina. 323 88 88 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 11 WEEKEND GETAWAYS HEALTH AND FAMILY Tara Mountain, a It’s time to get kids active

Taekwondo Club Belgrade, With the new +381 62 22 00 61 Taekwondo Club Red Star, true touch of nature school year +381 63 34 65 65 Taekwondo Club Taurunum, underway, +381 60 68 39 565 Belgrade is full of WATERPOLO

extracurricular Rio 2016 was also successful for Serbia’s waterpolo team, which managed to win a activities to help gold – the same medal they won in Janu- ary in Belgrade at the European Champi- children develop onship. Serbia’s water polo teams have always been high achievers, even more healthy bodies, in the past few years, which has led to a number of boys picking up this sport. along with This sport is said to develop the entire body; it remedies spinal deformities as healthy minds. well as so-called “chicken chest”, pro- motes the proper work of the cardio-vas- cular and locomotor systems and is good at fighting asthma. Belgrade has lots of waterpolo clubs. Here Ivana NIKOLIĆ are some where you can enrol your kids.

ith summer al- Waterpolo Club Vračar, most over and Sjenička 1, +381 31 00 032 the new school Waterpolo Club Taš, +381 62 31 18 24 year kicking off, Waterpolo Club Zemun, it is time to find Gradski park 2, +381 11 316 48 46 proper physical activitiesW for your children. Kids spend BALLET long days in class and need regular ex- ercise to maintain focus, regulate their Team or contact sports aren’t the only moods and develop discipline. But it activities that you can enrol your kid in. Bal- doesn’t have to be all hard work. let – be it classical or contemporary – is an You could use the lingering euphoria excellent activity for children. There are a of the August Olympic Games to demon- lot of different styles to choose from: some strate how cool it is to be part of a sports clubs in Belgrade offer jazz ballet classes, team. Draw your children into sports by while others offer more classical training. highlighting the opportunity to develop Although often considered a girl’s activ- If your child wants to become a ballet or judo star, there are many options. Photo: Ballet School Princess team friendships, travel and recognition. ity, boys are welcome, too. But, why ballet, If that fails, you can always entice them you might ask? Experts say that practicing with dreams of one day becoming the BASKETBALL es team spirit and a sense of community. won the first-ever gold medal for Serbia as ballet is especially good for strengthening next Novak Đoković or Michael Phelps. The best time to start playing basketball an independent nation at the 2012 Sum- the spine, developing the muscles and Belgrade is a great place to get children Spend any time in Serbia and you’ll is around the age of 10, according to ex- mer Olympics in London. Four years later, acquiring a sense of physical grace. Ballet involved in sports. The city offers a wide quickly discover that basketball is pos- perts. at the Rio Olympics, taekwondo again also contributes significantly to children’s range of activities, instruction and teams; sibly the most popular sport here. Since Here are some local places to start get- gained fame across Serbia when 18-year- social and cognitive development. you can choose from marquee sports dissolved in the 1990s, the ting your kids on the court. old Tijana Bogdanović brought home a The best time to start ballet training is like football and basketball to Đoković- Serbian men’s team has won numerous silver medal, thus encouraging more kids between the ages of three and four, while inspired tennis or water polo. international medals, including a silver Basketball Club Dynamic Belgrade, Du- to get involved. professional training begins at age ten. One Kids don’t just benefit from organised medal at this year’s Rio Olympics. This navska 62, +381 11 40 44 455 Age is irrelevant for this sport: children of the most desirable requirements is acute team sports, either. Anything that gets and many other successes have earned Basketball Club International Basket- as young as four and adults in their forties hearing and rhythmic timing, but that is a them moving and requires regular prac- Serbia the title, “The Land of Basketball”. ball School, Braće Srnić 25-40, can pick up the skill. The word taekwondo skill that can be gained with practice. Built in typical mountain style, these hideaways perfectly capture the spirit of 19th and 20th century mountain living. Photo: Flickr/ljubar tice is beneficial. So, if your child wants Because of its decades-long popularity, +381 11 68 93 312, +381 63 15 60 586 can be briefly translated as the art of fight- to become a ballet or judo star, there are there are hundreds of basketball clubs Basketball Club DIV Basket, Gandijeva ing with a leg and an arm. Taekwondo is Ballet School Lujo Davičo, many options. across Serbia, the most successful being 195, +381 63 72 34 444, +381 63 35 01 04 especially helpful in developing strength Knez Miletina 8, +381 11 32 26 670 Tara Mountain was proclaimed a National of basketball and football courts as well as other Apart from beautiful forests, meadows, lakes Belgrade Insight has prepared a list of the Belgrade teams Partizan and Red and speed and encourages self-esteem National Foundation 4 Dance, September is the per- Park in 1981 and is especially famous for the treats for kids. and viewpoints, you can also visit the nearby vil- extracurricular activities you might find Star. TAEKWONDO and endurance. However, its biggest Kolarčeva 3, +381 60 35 00 504, proliferation of Serbian spruce, a unique species The tiny village centre consists of a small cafe lage of Kremna, famous for its prophecies of 20th useful. Whichever you choose will only Basketball is especially good in boost- advantage is learning how to protect + 381 60 35 00 505, +381 60 35 00 510 fect time to escape the discovered in 1875, and named for the Serbian where you can have your morning and talk century events, allegedly written by the illiterate add to the health and happiness of your ing growth and strengthening coordina- This Korean martial art became highly yourself, as taekwondo is a form of self- Tutu Ballet School, Aleksandra botanist who found it, Josif Pančić. to locals, a tourist information office offering bike peasants Miloš Tarabić and his nephew Mitar. children! tion. Like other team sports, it encourag- popular in Serbia when Milica Mandić defence. Dubčeka 72, + 381 65 66 23 647 city’s heat and noise Tara Mountain is full of accommodation possi- rental, a post office and a small supermarket. On Their village Serbian Orthodox priest, Zaharije bilities. The two largest and oldest hotels, Omorika Sundays you can spot an elderly woman selling Zaharić is said to have recorded their predictions. with a relaxing trip to and Beli Bor, are both still state-owned, albeit a homemade cheese and kajmak – a local cheese Both Tarabićes died before 1900. little neglected. They are located near each other cream everyone here rightfully brags about. However, there are many who doubt these one of Serbia’s most and both offer magnificent views of the hills and Homemade rakija, Serbia’s famed fruit brandy, and prophecies. Some of the most interesting are the Published by forests, as well as pools and sport courts. local honey are also available. ones predicting WWII, the dissolution of Yugosla- beautiful mountains. However, if you prefer something more isolated Not far from Mitrovac lies the artificial Zaovine via, and conflicts in the Middle East. and wild, you can rent one of the beautiful rustic lake, built between 1975 and 1983. Many people “All of Europe will be under the rule of the cottages that dot the mountain. Built in typical fish in the lake and, if the weather allows, you can crooked cross. Russia will not be involved until the Ivana NIKOLIĆ mountain style, these hideaways perfectly capture even go swimming. Its water is crystal clear but aggressor's army attacks her. At that time, Russia the spirit of 19th and 20th century mountain living. can be quite freezing so think twice before jump- will be ruled by the 'red tsar,” one of the prophe- A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO ummer is almost over and you may There are plenty of booking websites offering ing in. cies reads. OUR PREMIUM already be feeling trapped in your apartments and cottages but it pays to compari- Tara Mountain is also rich in hiking tours and But, if you are not into walking, hiking, fishing NEWS AND ANALYSIS office again. However, if you still long son shop. scenic viewpoints. One of the most famous view- or reading the Tarabić’s grim prophecies, you can CONTENT for natural relaxation and outdoor Cottages generally run around a reasonable points is Banjska stena and it offers a spectacular always lay a blanket on the grass, and enjoy the IN peace while the weather is still pleas- €25-€30 per night, depending on the number view of the Drina river and another artificial lake, nature. Among its many offerings, Tara Mountain for in-depth analysis, investigative reports, ant, mid-September is perfect for an of guests (pay attention that it is per night, not a Perućac. It takes around two hours to walk there is simply a wonderful place for relaxation and features, interviews, idyllicS weekend getaway at Tara Mountain. per person price). Make sure to book early as the from the Mitrovac centre, and tours trek through silence in natural surroundings. commentary and profiles So, what is there at Tara other than stunning mountain is quite crowded this time of the year. woods and over steep hills but are definitely worth Located 180km from Belgrade, Tara Mountain on the latest business and views? Beware when using your cell phone: Bosnia is checking out. All hiking trails are properly marked is near the town of Užice in western Serbia and is political headlines. Quite a lot, actually. The mountain has some- really close across the border and it might easily along the road and easy to follow. within easy reach of the city. Locals claim it is eas- thing for everyone: lakes, rivers, hills, mountain go roaming and the company can charge you If you prefer bikes, you can rent one for rsd150 ily accessible by car even during the winter snows; biking, hiking, impressive history, delicious home- more for using it. [less than one euro] per hour or rsd600 per day local and national bus lines operate daily. For made food and drinks. Additionally, day tripping One of the most beautiful parts of Tara is the [around €5] at the nearby tourist information more information on the timetables, you can visit OTHER SERVICES: is also an option as the mountain is within easy small village of Mitrovac, located 20km up and centre. Tourist information officers can give you http://raketa-ab.com/red-voznje-2/bajina-basta/ reach of other attractions and interesting cities, down the hills from the main road. There is a big detailed advice on the best biking routes and and www.lasta.rs. One way tickets cost around €15 such as Višegrad, Bosnia. children’s resort in the village, and Mitrovac is full things to see while cycling. one way. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ARTS

Pančevo CLUBBING Film Festival AND LIVE MUSIC has begun Even though it started on September 7th, you still have a few more days Arts in brief to head over to Pančevo Opera, Ballet FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 9th • Trust Me You Can Dance - • Pump up the Friday!, Lasta • Festival of Unsigned Bands, Bogdan Djurdjevic – drums, to check out the town’s and Classical Dj`s Oysha & MeHighLow, boat on Sava river, 11pm day 2, Studentski Grad Cultural Grad Cultural Cenrte, Braće great international film • Francois X, Drugstore Secret Klub Terassa, Kalemegdan • Sweet & Sexy Party, Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića Krsmanović 4, 10pm festival. The festival lasts FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 9th th Garden, Bulevar Despota Fortress, 9pm Freestyler, boat on Sava river, 179, 8pm until September 11 and Filip Rakić, Miloš Budimirov, Dušan Stefana 115, 11pm • Saturday Night Out Party - 11pm THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 22nd features both long and Grozdanović, Guarnerius, Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm st short-form films from • GRADORAMA WEEKEND, Double Bass, Freestyler, boat • Swept into the dark night WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 21 Maestoso Quartet, Students’ Cultural Marčelo & Napeti Quintet on Sava river, 11pm - Nikola Pešut i Miloš • Shake the Nineties, Shake and all around the world. Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 9pm The programme is very and Mystic Stylez w/ • Retro House Day Party, Hot Starčević, Shake and Shake, • Retro House Party, Hot Mess Shake boat on Sava, 11pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 11th diverse, featuring feature Feloneezy & Phillie P, Mess, boat on Sava river, 7pm boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • House Night, Freestyler boat films, documentaries, Irena Josifovska (cello) and Uki Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • RnB Night - Dj Mike Ride, TAG, • TIME (rock’n’roll): Dado • KKQ: Katarina Kochetova on Sava, 11pm Ovaskainen (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac experimental movies, film Krsmanović 4, 8pm boat on Sava river, 11:30pm Topić, Tihomir Pop - piano, vocal, Marko • Krilat i Beo, Students’ Cultural Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am essays and more. For the • Regis, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, • Somebody Call The Doctor, Asanović, Vedran Božić, Curcic - double bass, bass, Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 9pm th full programme, visit their MONDAY SEPTEMBER 12 10pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm Mario Mavrin, Ratko Divjak, official website: http:// Milena Pejić (piano), Italian Cultural • Zamka, Povetarac boat on Sava • Rok Lavirint, Tramvaj Pub, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, www.pancevofilmfestival. Center, Kneza Miloša 56, 8pm river, 11pm Ruzveltova 2, 9pm 9pm com/ WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 14th • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava • Tav Falco, Dom Omladine, • Chicks on Speed, Grad river, 11pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Cultural Cenrte, Braće Igor Dražević (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac Igor Dražević Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm • Jerry Ropero, Shake and • Jazz Quartet Flow Motion, Krsmanović 4, 10pm TRA T T O R I A plays Brahms and Two poetic voices - Gordana Đilas Shake boat on Sava river, 11pm Students’ Cultural Centre, Kralja • Makao, Summer Stage and Milunka Mitrović, Students’ PIZZER I A Prokofiev Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Pump up the Friday!, Lasta Milana 50, 9pm BitefArtCafe, Kalemegdan th boat on Sava river, 11pm • Perpetuum Mobile, Fortress, 10pm Piano virtuoso Igor FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 16 • My boyfriend is out of BitefArtCafe Summer Stage, Dražević will be play- Duke Bojadžijev (piano), Ilija M. town!, Klub Terassa Lounge, Kalemegdan tennis courts, SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 17th Nebojsina 8 ing at the Ilija M Kolarac Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 011/3863-999 6pm Kalemegdan Fortress, 9pm 10pm Endowment on Septem- [email protected] th • Gigolo, Tramvaj Pub, • Midnight Orient, Grad ber 14th. This concert will SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 17 th www.restoranamici.rs Ruzveltova 2, 9pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 11 Cultural Cenrte, Braće feature pieces by Brahms Celestine Colbert (soprano), • Hip Hop Night - Dj Mooka, Krsmanović 4, 10pm and Prokofiev. Entrance Camille Chappuis (soprano), Jasna Jeremić (piano), Guarnerius, Džordža Hot Mess, boat on Sava river, • Deep/Funk/House/RnB - Dj • Belgrade Techno Festival, to the event is free. Vašingtona 12, 7:30pm 11:59pm Dooshan & friends, Shake Barutana, Kalemegdan Bass Passion Festival: Nenad Vasilić (stand up bass), Ilija M. Kolarac • Gift, Summer Stage and Shake, boat on Sava river, Fortress, 10pm Belgrade Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm BitefArtCafe, Kalemegdan 11pm • Superlover - Dj`s Goran Mosaic Festival SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 18th Fortress, 10pm • RnB Night, River boat on Sava Starčević & Danijel KOLARAC set to begin river, 11pm Čehranov, Lasta boat on Sava Bass Passion Festival: Paseo a Dos, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski th PROGRAMME The Heritage House (Kuća SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 10 • Cat Power, Dom Omladine, river, 11pm Trg 5, 8pm Makedonska 22, 8:30pm • Trust Me You Can Dance - Legata) in Knez Mihailova MONDAY SEPTEMBER 19th • Happy People / Serious Fun, Dj`s Oysha & MeHighLow, will be hosting the th Belgrade Mosaic Festival, Branka Panić (soprano), Milan Panić Barutana, Kalemegdan Fortress, MONDAY SEPTEMBER 12 Klub Terassa, Kalemegdan th WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 18th starting on September (tenor), Italian Cultural Center, Kneza 10pm Fortress, 9pm Miloša 56, 9pm 15th. It will be open for a Artistic salon returns • 20 years without Tupac, • DJ Mooka, Hot Mess boat on • Saturday Night Out Party - Music Gallery, 6pm Concert Hall, 8pm full month. All exhibitions WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 21st Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 11pm Sava river, 11pm Double Bass, Freestyler, boat Soloist: Igor Dražević, piano Bass Passion Festival Programme: Brahms, Prokofiev will be free of charge. • Secret Garden Closing: on Sava river, 11pm Paseo a Dos Dušan Sretović (piano), Ilija M. Production: Music Centre Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, th Renaud Garcia-Fons, contrabass with love theme Danaga Live, Danaga, TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 13 • Retro House Day Party, Hot Admission free David Pena Dorantes, piano Duke Bojadžijev 6pm MKDSL, Aytak, Chorbika, Mess, boat on Sava river, 7pm Ticket price: rsd1,000, 1,200, th quintet at Kolarac Show curator David Elliott. Photo: oktobarskisalon.org Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on • RnB Night - Dj Mike Ride, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16 1,500 [€8,10,12] Stefana 115, 11pm Sava river, 11pm TAG, boat on Sava river, 11:30pm Concert Hall, 8pm st New York native and well- th • 170 #2, KPTM, Žorža • Music of the 90s, Freestyler • Somebody Call The Doctor, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21 Pieces in the October Salon’s 56 edi- and Nebojša Vilić, Rene Block, Lo- Duke Bojadžijev Quintet – respected jazz pianist This year’s tion include a wide variety of formats rand Hegyi, Bojana Pejić, Branislava Klemensoa 22, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, Dream.Faith.Love Music Gallery, 6pm Duke Bojadžijev will be and mediums, the curator explained. Anđelković, Johan Poussete and Celia The New York • Bdat Dzutim (Bad Copy) i Byp 11pm Production: Dušan Sretović, piano playing with his band October Salon, October Salon is growing and this Prado, Galit Eilat and Alenka Gregorić, th Artist Management Exhibitions (Vatra), Elektropionir, Cetinjska WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 14 • Girls, Boys and Toys, Programme: Brahms, List DREAM.FAITH.LOVE at the year’s show features many more art- Branislav Dimitrijević and Mika Han- Ticket price: rsd1,200 [around Belgrade’s famed and Events 15, 9pm Summer Stage BitefArtCafe, Production: Music Centre ists than in previous years. Nearly sixty nula, Red Min(e)d, Nicolaus Schafhaus- €10] Ilija M Kolarac Endow- Admission free th artists from Serbia, the Balkans and en and Vanessa Joan Muller. • Superlover - Dj`s Goran • Retro House Party, Hot Mess Kalemegdan Fortress, 10pm ment on September 16 . international FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 9th th beyond are displaying work during the The October Salon was held annu- Starčević & Danijel Čehranov, boat on Sava river, 11pm SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17 rd Tickets cost ten euros. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 contemporary art exhibition. ally until 2014, but Belgrade authori- Lasta boat on Sava river, 11pm • Salsa y Punto, House of SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 18th Exhibition: Dada on tour, Belgrade A classic French love song called ties decided to make the exhibition bi- Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 5pm Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm Culture Studentski Grad, Bass Passion show, examines ‘Plaisir d’Amour’ inspired the theme, annual in order to improve the salon’s Calligraphy - Workshop, Students Bass Passion Festival Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, • Deep/Funk/House/RnB - Dj Festival to ‘The Pleasure of Love’. The song was quality. Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 6pm Nenad Vasilić, contrabass For Lovers 8pm Dooshan & friends, Shake spotlight the role of emotion composed by Jean-Paul-Egide Martini “We are ready to ensure [improved Ticket price: rsd800, 1,000 Conductor: Daniel Raiskin SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 10th in 1784 and is based on a poem written quality] by giving more time [to the • Krcko and Lefty Beatzz, and Shake, boat on Sava river, [€6.5,8] Soloist: Kolja Blacher, violin double bass in modern art by Jean-Pierre Claris de Florian, killed organisers] to prepare… and by giving Grad Cultural Cenrte, Braće 11pm Programme: A. Vrebalov, Exhibition: Marija Curk, Trag Bookstore th FREE COPY SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 J. Sibelius, F. Schreker, P. I. There aren’t too many through diverse during the French Revolution’s Reign of more money for a bi-annual concept of and Gallery, Dvoržakova 2, 7pm Krsmanović 4, 9pm • RnB Night, River boat on Sava Terror in 1794. the salon,” Vladan Vukosavljević, for- Tchaikovsky festivals that feature a Festival of Musical Film opening • Warrel Dane, Dom Omladine, river, 11pm Concert Hall, 11am “The pleasure of love lasts only a mo- mer Belgrade cultural secretariat and ceremony and film: Rockabilly World, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Production: Belgrade mediums. Makedonska 22, 9pm Bass Passion Festival predominantly back- ment. The grief of love lasts a lifetime,” current Serbian culture minister, told Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Philharmonic MONDAY th Ljubinko Lazić and guests ground instrument such Ivana NIKOLIĆ the song reads. Politika Online in October 2014. Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 SEPTEMBER 19 SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 11th Admission free as the double bass as Despite the centuries that have However, the decision sparked an Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 15th the main attraction, ctober Salon’s theme passed since his death, Elliott believes outcry among art historians, culture BIRN editorial team: • DJ Mooka, Hot Mess boat on Stand Up Comedy Evening with ‘The Pleasure of that Florian’s song still rings true today. experts and many October Salon Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, but the Bass Passion Jelena Radanović i Ana Zlatanović, • Shake the Nineties, Shake and Sava river, 11pm Love’, explores “what “Florian’s words have echoed across team members, who said the move [email protected] Festival is one of them. Ben Akiba, Braće Krsmanović 6, 8:30pm Shake boat on Sava, 11pm • Festival of Unsigned Bands, Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović role emotion plays time to still speak in the present, both in broke a decades-long tradition and Paseo a Dos, a great TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 13th Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • House Night, Freestyler boat day 1, Studentski Grad Cultural in contemporary art Martini’s original arrangement and de- does not represent the salon’s core duo featuring pianist and how it may be formed into kitsch, at once eternal and values. [email protected] on Sava, 11pm Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića Exhibition: Art Studio for Youth, Grad David “Dorantes” Pena framed in ways that are neither banal fleeting,” Elliott said. ‘The Pleasure of Love’ kicks off on Subscription & Distribution: 179, 8pm Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine O Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Goran Knezevic SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES and double bass player nor kitsch,” said show curator David El- The city of Belgrade established the September 23rd and lasts until Novem- FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 16th 8pm +381 11 4030 303 Renaud Garcia-Fons liott in a press release. October Salon in 1960 as a local exhibi- ber 6th at several venues across the th [email protected] TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 20 will be headlining the “This may include the not-so-simple tion of the best works of fine arts. The city: Belgrade City Museum and Bel- WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 14th • Belgrade Techno Festival, festival on September pleasures of love, humour, horror and festival has hosted many prominent grade Cultural Centre’s galleries (The Exhibition: Predrag Peđa Milošević, Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Barutana, Kalemegdan • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on 18th at the Ilija M Kolarac any other perspectives that art may artists and curators since becoming an Art Gallery, Artget Gallery, Podroom). ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight bring to bear on the fragility of human international showcase in 2005. The ticket price has yet to be an- King Peter I House, Vase Pelagića 40, Fortress, 10pm Sava river, 11pm Endowment. Tickets cost 7pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 experience and life which, in itself, may Among the internationally recog- nounced. For more information about , Club 94, boat on Sava , Freestyler Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Stand Up Comedy Evening with Circulation: 4,000 • RnB • Music of the 90s Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, between eight and €12, have a transient or long-lasting impact,” nised artists who have appeared are the exhibitions and authors, visit http:// Marina Orsag i Martina Ipša, Ben river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. depending on seating. Elliott added. Anda Rottenberg, Darka Radosavljević oktobarskisalon.org/home/. Akiba, Braće Krsmanović 6, 8:30pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT

Serbian musicians Kaldrma Bar perform in A neat little bar to battle with, as well as the hipster Russia heaven of Cetinjska Street right up the that turns into road. Although you’ll easily find well over elgrade’s Philharmonic Orches- a pint-sized 30 bars, cafés and within a tra, accompanied by virtuoso 200-metre radius of Kaldrma, the fact violinist Nemanja Radulović, nightclub over that it seems “the odd man out” almost Bperformed at the season plays to its advantage. premiere of Moscow’s prominent Chai- th the weekends, Belgrade views most of ckovsky Concert Hall on September 6 . as a giant tourist trap to be avoided at The performance marked Radulović’s Kaldrma Bar offers all costs, and plenty of people are sick Moscow debut and the Belgrade Phil- of the ridiculous crowds of Cetinjska harmonic Orchestra’s first performance Street’s clubbing commune. in the Russian capitol in 20 years. Before a cool new option Kaldrma Bar, therefore, comes as a performing in Russia, they played Bel- refreshing alternative to both. It’s very grade’s Ilija M Kolarac Endowment on nd Photo: Twitter/Beograd Filharmonija Photo: Twitter/Beograd Filharmonija in the hippest part small, with a small wooden platform September 2 . built in front of the bar during sum- of town - if you mer where people are always enjoying cocktails or during the day. But Thousands don’t mind the the real action takes place inside the bar and between Thursday and Satur- of people crush. day. The weekend transforms Kaldrma ran Belgrade Bar into a miniature club that stays David GALIĆ open until about 3am. No matter what time you arrive over the weekend, it’s aldrma” is the sure to be crowded. The bar is tiny, with everal thousand Bel- Serbian word two small, narrow sections linked by an graders took part in for the cob- even tinier, narrow hallway. the traditional We Run blestone lanes The walls are lined with wooden Belgrade race, on Sunday, that this part panels and the décor is minimalistic. A The weekend transforms Kaldrma Bar into a miniature club that stays open until about 3am. Photo: Facebook S th September 4 . Many central and of town is best few high tables are strategically placed New Belgrade streets were closed known“K for. We are, of course, talking around the bar with some more com- without having to pull off some serious uncomfortable at Kaldrma Bar if you’re It’s not the stuffy money grab of Ska- throughout the afternoon. The about the “bohemian” quarter of Bel- fortable seating in other areas. acrobatics or basically bulldozing over looking to unwind. darlija, nor is it just another bar in Cetin- 10km race raises awareness for a grade known as Skadarlija. Kaldrma If you want to actually sit down, people. But, if you don’t mind being packed jska Street, yet it’s located smack in the healthy living. Bar is located right at the tail end of the you’re going to have to call in a reserva- The small hallway that separates into a small bar like sardines with middle of both. Of course, another ad- Photo: Facebook Photo: Facebook street, a location that has its pluses and tion pretty early. On Fridays and Satur- the two main rooms can sometimes young party people who are mostly vantage of going to Kaldrma Bar is that its minuses. days, you can barely move at Kaldrma cause the biggest problems, becom- having a really good time, it’s worth a if you end up hating it, there are dozens On the plus side, it’s prime real es- Bar during peak hours. ing so congested that you literally look. of other bars, restaurants and clubs in France tate in Belgrade’s most central neigh- If you’re not much of a clubber and can’t switch rooms, no matter how The music is mostly electronic, the vicinity. bourhood. However, it also means that on the wrong side of 30, you may find hard you try. though there aren’t many popular Bel- honours Kaldrma Bar has plenty of competition. it exhausting. Sometimes so many peo- The ventilation is also poor and just grade DJs spinning there. The coolest Kaldrma Bar You have all of the popular, touristy res- ple are there that it’s virtually impos- like every bar in Belgrade, smoking is al- thing about Kaldrma Bar is ultimately Address: Skadarska 40 famed taurants and cafés of Skadarska Street sible to reach the bar or even the toilet lowed. Needless to say, it can get pretty not what the bar is, but what it is not. Contact: +381 64 30 81 422 Serbian actor Paco Osuna Battleme brings note of anarchy he jury at the Inter- to keep national Film Festival Barutana loud in to Belgrade Nancy-Lorraine in France Tawarded Serbian actor September Predrag Miki Manojlović a special f you’ve ever watched the popular television programme “Sons of lifetime achievement award on Anarchy,” there’s a good chance that you have heard Battleme as September 5th. Manojlović has ummer might be coming to an end, but that doesn’t mean that the season well. Battleme is the stage name of Matt Drenik, who is best known roots in the French town; Nancy is over in one of Belgrade’s best summer clubs, Barutana. If you’re coming for playing in the band Lions. Battleme was created as an avenue is his father’s birthplace and his back from vacation and looking for a great party in late September, check for Drenik to explore music that is less loud and guitar-based and grandmother’s long-time home. out Paco Osuna on September 30th in Barutana. more introspective and personal. Over 140 feature and documen- On the scene for well over two decades, Osuna is known around the The music Drenik creates goes perfectly with the atmosphere of “Sons I tary films from the former Yugo- world as a DJ who spins intelligent and sophisticated dance music, no of Anarchy.” We're talking very lo-fi and dark American folk music that slavia were screened during the matter the occasion and venue. Owner of a popular nightclub in Barcelona, Osuna’s is in stark contrast to the larger-than-life psychedelic rock that Lions is S festival, which took place over the style has transformed and evolved over the years, remaining dark, bass-heavy and known for. The show takes place at Dom Omladine on September 22nd last week of August. incredibly creative. Tickets cost €10 at the door. and tickets cost €7 at the door. Photo: Facebook

AIRLINE TICKETS Vocalist Warrel Dane to play entire album Known for his ground-breaking vocal work, Gradorama to feature FOR THE WHOLE WORLD first in the 1980s with American power metal Marčelo and Mystic Stylez legends Sanctuary and later with progres- Garage rock icon KC Grad garden sive metal titans , Warrel Dane KC Grad is kicking off their September Tav Falco at Dom Omladine to host jazz event has one of the most distinct and recognis- programme with Gradorama, a battle Salsa y Punto bring able voices in heavy metal. After Nevermore of two heavyweights. Serbia’s most salsa flavour to Belgrade Tav Falco has been a pillar of the garage KC Grad’s garden is one of the coolest broke up, Dane decided on a solo career. popular hip hop star, Marčelo, accom- rock scene and culture since the late places to hang out during the summer, This concert will be special, since Dane panied by his live band, will be opening If you like samba, salsa, rumba, me- 1970s and his music is just as noisy and so do take advantage of it while the and his solo band are celebrating the 15th the show, while two DJs from Belgrade’s rengue, look no further than to Salsa y potent today as it was when he first weather’s still nice and the garden is still anniversary of Nevermore’s seminal album popular Mystic Stylez collective, Punto, an international Latino music moved to Memphis to start his rock 'n' open. Krcko & Lefty Beatzz is a five- “Dead Heart In A Dead World,” which will Feloneezy and Phillie P, will be closing. band that’s made up of world-class musi- roll career. He plays with his band, the piece jazz group that will be playing the be played in its entirety in Belgrade. Tickets Tickets for Marčelo are €5, but if you just cians from both Serbia and Cuba. They Panther Burns, at Dom Omladine on garden on September 14th, along with cost €17 at the door. The show takes place on want to show up for Mystic Stylez at the play the Studentski Grad Cultural Centre September 10th and tickets for the show special guest Max Kochetov. Tickets for www.flyflytravel.com September 14th at Dom Omladine. end, it’s €2 after 10pm. on September 14th and entrance is free cost €15. the show cost around two euros. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 09 - Thursday, September 22, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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