Volume 18 – Issue 3 september 2010 In this Issue TEAM USA 2010 2 Chairman’s Corner By solveig tofte at the Louis Lesaffre Cup 4 Member News Guild Board Member and Team USA 2010 Coordinator International Profile: Italy Bob Eggebrecht The road to the Louis Lesaffre Cup started last to stress that all nine people are part of Team The Kneading Conference summer with our series of draft classes, where USA 2010 – the final three are supported by the member bakers auditioned for a place on work done by all individuals. The competition 6 World’s Fair The South African Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2010. The judges within the categories challenged them all to do Whole Grain Bread Project were thrilled with the pool of talent within the their personal best, and the knowledge base Formula: Mosbolletjie Guild’s membership. Our initial selection of nine was very broad, allowing each person to learn Italian Holiday Baking members went through six months of practices from his teammates. Breads of India within their categories, working together and We are extremely pleased to announce the Albany Mill Excursion individually to prepare for the competition in competition team appearing in Las Vegas: Intro to Artisan Baking Las Vegas at IBIE. By training so many people, : Baguettes & Specialty Breads: Mike Zakowski, The Wood-Fired Oven we hoped to have strength in numbers - Artisan Bakers, Sonoma, CA allowing for greater creativity, a deeper set 18 Technical Articles Viennoiserie: Jeremey Gadouas, of skills and more flexibility. This was a long : Gluten Free Baking Bennison’s Bakery, Evanston, IL and grueling process for all of our teams, and Heirloom Wheat Artistic Design: Harry Peemoeller, the approach has worked well to allow for the : Johnson & Wales, Charlotte, NC 22 Team USA 2010: myriad variables involved with getting a group Introduction to Viennoiserie ready to compete. The United States will compete against Mexico, Canada and Puerto Rico for a spot at the 24 Guild News It has been an immense pleasure to work with Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris IBIE Registration Info these skilled bakers. A few had to withdraw in 2012. The non-competing Team USA 2010 due to personal concerns and injuries, and the members, along with team members from remaining members worked incredibly hard, previous years, will be working in the demo with great skill and creativity, which made bakeshops, promoting the Guild’s education our final decisions very difficult. I would like mission, and hosting the eight other countries participating in the Louis Lesaffre Cup.

Team USA 2010 will compete on Sunday, The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading September 26, along with Mexico and Canada. American educational Please come to the show to cheer them on! ✹ resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape these three Team USA members the knowledge and skills of will compete at the Louis the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lesaffre Cup on september 26th. Lines, the newsletter of Left to right: Jeremey Gadouas, Viennoiserie; The Bread Bakers Guild of Mike Zakowski, Baguette & Specialty Breads; America, is published four Harry Peemoeller, Artistic Design times per year.

PHOTO: jerry lanuzza chairman’s corner M arke t ing Bo P hoto s c o ur

Camp Bread Update – t esy o f T h e C alif ard (lef t ) and A bram F Target Date Reset to 2012

In response to strong requests from our other campers in demo members, the Board had every intention classes, regular teaching o rnia R aisin to host Camp Bread 2011 at an East Coast classrooms, and outdoor aber (rig ht ) or Midwest location, following two hugely oven building classes. This successful Camps at the San Francisco doesn’t even take into Baking Institute in 2005 and 2007. account facilities for 250 Requests for proposals to host Camp bakers to gather for meals to the wheatfields of Kansas for a mill tour. Bread were sent out last fall to culinary and networking. Over and over, our members respond to the schools, and we were gratified to receive But even when we thought we had quality of small group, hands-on education responses from three locations. met that challenge, we bumped up that the Guild provides. However, it turned out to be more against corporate America in 2010. We value the relationships we enjoy with challenging than we ever imagined Today, culinary schools large enough the many institutions that generously to find the perfect place with the right to accommodate the demands of Camp partner with us on one- and two-day combination of resources, like ovens, Bread are typically multi-campus regional classes for 12-25 students. Our mixers and sheeters for multiple lab educational corporations with serious 2010 regional events have reached more classes, as well as outdoor spaces for oven liability concerns and their own than 250 members. building, and a central tent with kitchen contractual obligations with food service facilities for meals, networking, and vendors, maintenance services companies, Future regional events will continue to offer assemblies. And, of course, we hoped for a etc. We have learned in this process that a balance of education on bread baking city rich in locations for tours of bakeries once the numbers of participants and basics for the endless stream of newcomers and flour mills. hours of facility use exceed a certain point, to our profession, with expanded class the negotiations start to involve many offerings teaching more complex skills We have talked with several venues more layers of approvals, lawyers, and and traditions to experienced bakers. The and engaged in a seven-month contract insurance agents. staff and Board committees are already negotiation process with one school that planning now for an exciting slate of 2011 required us to think hard about what kinds The contract negotiation process took classes and tours. of compromises, and how many, we were much longer than we anticipated, and, willing to make on aspects of the Camp finally, we simply ran out of time to be able We know that the energy and education Bread experience. to settle on a venue and have enough time and community building that went on at to plan an event of the caliber that The the past two camps was something really In many ways, what the search has Guild stands for. We are confident that amazing for our Guild of passionate confirmed for us was just how generous eventually we will find a site and forge artisans. The Board is committed not only Michel Suas and his entire team at the an agreement with another institution to to making Camp Bread happen again, but San Francisco Baking Institute were when answer your requests for an East Coast also to “institutionalize” it to take place on they gave us the “keys to their castle” in Camp Bread. But at this time we need to a regular basis. 2005 and 2007. They offered up every nook be realistic and reset the target date to and cranny of that great facility to us with We will let you know as soon as Camp 2012 as we continue to develop our options. few restrictions, so we could teach and Bread finds a home for its next incarnation. bake and dance and eat and build ovens The disappointment of having to push and make new friends and renew ties with back Camp Bread for another year is far flung colleagues. SFBI’s willingness to offset by our commitment to sponsor a extend such trust to The Guild in the use minimum of 12 regional events across the of their facility was an exceptional gift. country for our members. We established this commitment with Women of the As we looked for an East Coast site, we Guild in 2008, continued it with The Craig Ponsford & abram faber came face to face with a different reality. Draft last year, and are proud that The Chairman of the Board Vice Chairman Few schools have enough fully equipped World’s Fair of Bread classes have been of the Board and classrooms to accommodate, for three wildly successful. We never imagined that Camp Bread Director days, 75 campers in a lab class and 150 almost 25 Guild members would venture

{ 2 } the bread bakers guild of america

GUILD news Thanks to our Donors

The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its 2010-2012 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000) Hearth Society ($1,980) Guild Friends (Up to $389) General Mills, Inc. AIB International Tim Andrews Bread Alone Anonymous Neale and Marian Creamer Lorna Baker-Monroe Euro Pane Bakery Frank Basich Gold Partner ($60,000) Labriola Baking Company George Blanford King Arthur Flour Co. Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Carol Brownson San Francisco Baking Institute Le Petit Outre Breads Marsha De Angelis New French Bakery Dewey Doughberman Niedlov's Breadworks Eden Valley Bakers Silver Partner ($36,000) Udi's Bread Jessie Foster Lesaffre Yeast Corporation Michael Gesik Couche Club ($990-$1,979) Gail Goetsch Bakehouse Bread Rhoda Gordon Bronze Partner ($18,000) David Bergman James W. Hatfield III Baking Buyer Frank Carollo Hot Bagel Company Kemper Bakery Systems of the Certified Foods Inc. Melina Kelson-Podolsky WP Bakery Group Dawn Food Products Craig Ponsford Modern Baking Erika Record LLC Patricia Kennedy Pastry & Baking North America Jason and Linda Gollan John Kino Progressive Baker/Cargill Griffin’s Bakery Galway Ireland Paul Krebs Orlando Baking Company John and Laura Kvasnosky Team Alliance ($6,000) Carol Robson Larry Lobe BEMA Truckee Sourdough Company Joan McConville Seven Stars Bakery Paige Meier Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989) Benjamin Miller Artisan Circle ($3,600) Alessio Ambruso Richard Miscovich The Acme Bread Company Anonymous Murray Hollow Bakers Albemarle Baking Company Buono’s Bakery Barbara Oberlin Allied Bakery Equipment Company Inc. Ann F. Burgunder Christian Oertel Amy’s Bread Abram Faber & Christy Timon Barbara A. Oletzke Breadsmith Dave Krishock Maria A. Paniagua Chabaso Bakery La Bonbonniere Bake Shoppes Harry Peemoeller Clear Flour Bread Red Hen Baking Company Lewis Perlmutter ConAgra Mills Edward Short Rebecca and Dmitri Robbins Charles and Joyce Esfeld SoNo Baking Company Sandwich Isle Bread Company Grand Central Baking Company Standard Baking Company Joan Schiller Sasa-Demarle Inc. Solveig Tofte Slow Rise Bakery Tom Cat Bakery Inc. Ray Werner Scott Tycer Tree-Top Baking Becky Woehrle Hans van der Maarel Village Bakery Cafe Jeffrey Yankellow Zingerman’s Bakehouse

bread lines – september 2010 { 3 } member news

 International Guild Member Profile peter endriss : milan, italy

Peter Endriss is an American who capacity. After graduating with a degree ? Is there a special product recently returned to the US after living in civil engineering, I tried working in or baking technique from your in Milan, Italy, for two years. He was that industry for a few years but was country that you think Guild constantly drawn back to restaurant work. formerly the Head Baker at Per Se and members would be interested in Finally, I left engineering and began Bouchon Bakery in New York and has hearing about? cooking on the savory side. I realized been a Guild member since 2005. rather quickly that I preferred pastry and I think that the procedure of making made the switch within a year. After a panettone is very particular and would be ? How did you get into baking? few years in pastry, I had an opportunity interesting to Guild members. From as far back as I can remember, I was to stage in a bread bakery in my father’s fascinated with cooking and baking, and hometown in southern Germany and ? Are there any baking throughout high school and college, I instantly fell in love with bread making. challenges you face due to local always worked in food service in some Upon my return to the US, I started customs, climate or culture? working an overnight baking shift and I have found it rather difficult to find a have been a bread baker ever since. stage in a bakery here in Milan, because even when I’ve had some connection ? What breads do you bake? do to a bakery, there seems to be a strong they include any local breads? sense of protectionism that prevents the I enjoy baking both savory and sweet baker from wanting to share his “secrets.” breads and maintain a liquid levain at On the other hand, I have found much home, which I use often in all different more interest in non-professional bread- types of bread. Some of my favorite making here in Milan than in New York breads are naturally-leavened, overnight and was pleasantly surprised by the level fermentation breads and rye breads of participation and enthusiasm exhibited because they have such a complexity of at the bread classes that I taught with the flavor and they’re different every time and Slow Food Milan group. always interesting. The only truly local bread (from Milan) I’ve made at home ? What excites or inspires is the panettone, which, due to its long you about baking? process and characteristic flavor, is one of The thing I love most about bread-making my favorites to make. is the idea of taking four simple ingredi- ents and creating something much great- Tell us about the local ? er than the sum of its parts. I really enjoy baking history or traditions. the pleasure people take in eating a good The breads that are truly “indigenous” loaf of bread, and I like the fact that it’s to Milan and its region, Lombardia, are never the same. Working with a product often made from very dry, heavily worked that is alive makes it eternally challeng- doughs that result in breads that are very ing and therefore eternally engaging. crusty but not very flavorful. Panettone is the exception, which explains why it’s one ? how has membership in the of the few breads known outside of Milan. guild helped you with your Looking at Italian breads as a whole, there business, your growth as a baker, are some wonderful breads from other or your product quality? regions such as the Ligurian focaccia and Membership in The Guild has helped put the Pugliese pane di Altamura, which me in contact with other bakers and many are still being made in traditional ways, formulas and has facilitated an exchange often using pre-ferments and time-tested that would have otherwise been nearly im- procedures. esy o f p e t er endriss t esy possible. It has also helped create a strong o ur TOP: Peter Endriss demonstrates artisan sense of community among American s: c bread baking for Slow Food Milan. BOTTOM: bakers that I have yet to experience among Peter Endriss answers questions at a baking the bakers of France, Germany or Italy. ✹

P hoto demonstration for school children in Milan.

{ 4 } the bread bakers guild of america member news Bob Eggebrecht: Old Retired Baker September 25, 1944 – June 20, 2010

By Michael eggebrecht I wanted to share a few words about my father, Bob Eggebrecht, who was a great small chores, and by age 11 was opening man, a very great friend, and a great the bakery before school. baker. My dad was not a formally trained During his younger years he witnessed baker but had such a tremendous grasp many different styles of baking from of the profession on so many levels that I

family members who had branched out to o f mic h ael eggebrec ht t esy continued to turn to him for advice daily,

open their own bakeries throughout the o ur up until his death. Midwest. At the time, long fermentation He was a professional baker and knew and highly hydrated doughs were the only that his business had to earn a profit and way to produce bread, rolls and sweet : c P hoto that he was responsible for not only his doughs properly while maintaining any his messages in the Guild’s Yahoo eGroup welfare but for those who worked for him. shelf life and flavor. My father kept up (where he signed himself as “Old Retired He knew how to run a bakery like the best those solid practices all through his career. Baker,”) but also from personal phone calls quarterback can run a team. Back in those In 1992, after 43 years, my dad sold the that he made to some of you. He would days, everything was from scratch and family business in our diminishing Midwest tell me about those chats and always cher- by hand, and he ran his shop on the floor town and sought a steadier way of life ished being able to help and learn from with his crew. at Walt Disney World. He felt happy and you. He valued the Bread Bakers Guild and My dad was born into the baking business: rejuvenated to join a team of good bakers deeply enjoyed being a part of it. his father and four uncles were all bakers. again and relieved not to have to lead it. Bob Eggebrecht will be missed as a friend, He began working at the bakery around In the past few years, many of you have as a dad and as a Guild member. Rest in the age of five, helping out with pans and grown to know my father, not only from peace, Old Retired Baker. ✹

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is a proud sponsor of The Kneading Conference july 29 – 30 kneadingconference.com O NFERENCE : ©2010 TH E KNEADING C : ©2010 P hotoS

bread lines – september 2010 { 5 } world’s fair of bread

By daniel leader Guild Member and Co-owner of Bread Alone Bakery, The South African Boiceville, NY Whole Grain Bread Project

The multicol- as I could about the culture, history, and Gail Johnston was a friend of his, and he ored door people of South Africa. The book that gave me her cell phone number. to the metal touched me the most was We Are All The I called Gail two days later, as soon as shipping Same: the Story of Gail and Nkosi Johnson, I arrived at my hotel in Johannesburg container by Jim Wooten. (Jo’burg to the locals): “Hi, Gail, this is creaks open An excerpt of the book review in Booklist: Dan Leader, a baker from the U.S. I’d to reveal two South African like to come do some volunteer work at women pulling honey-colored In 1989, the year that [Nelson] Mandela Nkosi’s Haven [Gail’s creation: a home for loaves from a shiny oven. Outside was released from prison, a Zulu baby destitute, HIV-positive mothers and their the newly painted doors, three named Nkosi was born HIV-positive children] while I’m in town.” children munch on fresh bread in to a teen single mother dying of AIDS. the hot, dusty courtyard of Wooten, ABC News senior correspondent, “Darling,” she said in her long, slow South Nkosi’s Haven. I stand aside and tells Nkosi's family story of hope and African accent, “don’t just come to visit – watch, dressed in my baker’s heartbreak in a clear dramatic narrative come and teach the moms how to make pants and chef’s coat, while a that personalizes the apartheid politics as whole wheat bread. The stuff they eat group of neatly dressed children well as the present devastating statistics is just disgusting, and they need all the begin to gather around their and the struggle against prejudice. At calories they can manage.” mothers and other community age 2, the sick little boy was taken in by a A couple of days later I gathered the women who have assembled to loving white family, and with the support ingredients for my class and called a cab witness the fledgling beginnings of his activist white foster mother, Gail to take me to Nkosi’s Haven, located in of what I cautiously hope will [Johnston], he became a famous public central Johannesburg, The ride to Nkosi’s be the gateway to their health, figure in the battle against discrimination. was a glimpse into real life in South Africa. healing and livelihood: The He won the legal right to attend school. We passed rich and opulent suburbs, South African Whole Grain At 11, shortly before he died, he gave an luxurious homes with pools and well- Bread Project. electrifying speech to an international manicured gardens behind high walls audience. Wooten gets close to the dying I never imagined I would be on the bejeweled with security cameras, and child and his white family, and he writes forefront of the movement to help headed towards central Jo’burg. We drove passionately about Gail's fight and about the victims of AIDS and poverty, and I past Alexandria, a massive squatters camp President Mbeki's absurd denial that certainly never thought that my love of filled with hundreds of thousands of tin has enraged the health profession. Most baking would bring me to an AIDs refuge shacks, and Hilbrow, a dense downtown haunting is the breakup of black family in Johannesburg, South Africa. But here I life stretching back across was, teaching my craft to this enthusiastic Photo: dan leader generations, the desperation group of women, a loaf of bread in of the teen that gets AIDS and my hands and a smile on my face as I gives it to her son. watched the loaves roll out. – Hazel Rochman Here is how I arrived at that point. The night before I left, I was In April 2005 I had boarded a plane to visiting my friends, Mark and South Africa to consult with that nation’s Lisa, at their farm north of largest supermarket, Pick’n’Pay, to New York City and shared develop a line of artisanal breads at their with them my reactions to central bakery in Johannesburg. An old this touching story. To my friend and colleague, Jimmy Riesenburger, surprise, Mark told me that whom I met during my five-year stint as a consultant at Wegman’s supermarkets in upstate New York, had moved back to his Lindewe, Chengeto, and Esnath, home in Cape Town and was working for bakers from the South African Whole Grain Bread Project, pose Pick‘n’Pay. In the weeks prior to leaving, I with some of their whole wheat had prepared myself by reading as much bread. The bakery can produce 200 loaves per hour.

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area considered the one of the most a great deal of mental dangerous in all of South Africa – and gymnastics and dealing South Africa is considered one of the most with international red dangerous countries on earth. tape, but we were all determined to get the When we arrived, the cab driver gave me project off the ground. a look like “Buddy, do you really want to It’s a long story with be here?” I assured him that this was the many stops and starts, place where I was supposed to be. but in the end we built a Nkosi’s Haven is located in two old modern bakery in a grey houses in a gritty area in central Jo’burg. steel shipping container I unloaded my bags of flour and went which then traveled inside. Gail hugged me like a lifelong overland to Nkosi’s Village, friend and called the moms and kids into where it was installed and the simple kitchen. promptly painted in vivid colors by the residents. leader : dan P hoto As I have done hundreds of times before in dozens of kitchens, large and small (I’ve Macadam’s Baking taught baking at the Culinary Institute Systems in Cape Town of America, the French Culinary Institute and Container World, a and the Institute of Culinary Education company that transforms as well as many small schools across the containers into all kinds country), I stood in front of my class and of mobile businesses, took a deep breath. All the moms were were both generous either HIV-positive or suffering from full- and instrumental in the blown AIDS. The kids were dressed neatly creation and mobilization in worn clothing and were looking at me of the container. In with an endearing mixture of curiosity and order to raise funds, we confusion. I began explaining how to make promoted the Whole a simple whole wheat loaf. We kneaded Grain Bread Project at and shaped and baked as a group, and by Bread Alone Bakery. We the end of the class, the room was filled were invited to enter leader o f dan t esy with smiles and the smell of warm bread. an international small o ur business competition in As I was leaving, Gail looked at me and

the Netherlands called the : c P hoto said, “We should build a bakery for the Business in Development TOP: Thepelo, Samkelo, and Eugene, three of the 180 children in moms to run!” Challenge, where we Nkosi’s Village, give an enthusiastic review of the bread their mothers In that instant, the idea for the South Afri- won second prize amidst have baked. BOTTOM: Gail Johnston and Dan Leader are pictured outside the multicolored container bakery in Nkosi’s Village. The tiny several thousand entries can Whole Grain Bread Project was born. bakery is fully functional and can accommodate four bakers at a time. from all over the world. Over the next five years I commuted every three months to South Africa, and I’ve The bakery in the multi-colored container Poverty, AIDS, war, hatred and natural now been there 19 times. As promised sits at the entrance of Gail’s newest disasters all strike hard. As Westerners on my contract, I worked at Pick‘n’Pay, venture, Nkosi’s Village, which is home to who are privileged to move about freely training young people from all over South 100 mothers and 180 children. The bakery and comfortably, we are often challenged Africa in the art of artisan hearth baking can produce 200 fortified whole wheat to help. I would love to get help from at their central bakery, and I worked with loaves per hour and can accommodate interested bakers who would like to Gail and many other enthusiastic people four bakers per shift. We are feeding the contribute their talents, or individuals or both at my bakery, Bread Alone, and in community as well as selling bread to companies who can help with funding. South Africa, to design a model of a small stores and a farmers market. We have Contributions can be made through our bakery the moms could run. plans and donors for a second bakery in website, www.sawgbp.com. ✹ Cape Town and are raising money for a The logistics of bringing together the For more information about Nkosi’s third bakery at McCord Hospital in Durban. necessary equipment for the bakery and Haven and Village, please visit providing training for the moms took www.nkosishaven.org. bread lines – september 2010 { 7 } world’s fair of bread

By markus farbinger Co-founder, Ile de Pain & Mon Petit Pain, Thesen Islands, Mosbolletjie: South Africa a Traditional Bread from South Africa I founded Ile de Pain Bread & Café with my partner, Liezie Mulder, on the Thesen Islands, near the small coastal town of Knysna, South Africa.

At first we built a wood-fired oven, Our story of “mosbolletjies” takes place in according to the plans of the late Alan the southwestern corner of South Africa. Scott, with the idea of making bread The Cape Province of South Africa has for the town as the “village baker.” After a wine making tradition over 300 years 1,600 hectare farm they focused on dairy, eight years, due to Liezie’s skill and old. As an important outpost for various chickens, wheat and corn. They retired in experience, it evolved into a full breakfast excursions by European conquerors and 1996 to Herold’s Bay, a spectacular beach and lunch restaurant, complete with wine traders, the region around Cape Town and holiday destination near the town of list, desserts and chocolate and over 40 grew rapidly and gained importance over George. employees. the centuries. It was a critical port for the British and Dutch East India Companies’ Katie uses around 150kg of flour for her Last year we added Mon Petit Pain in the journeys to and from Asia, transporting Saturday Market breads and cookies. business area of the town. It is our ”slow exotic goods and other, less appropriate Michael is always with her at the farmer’s food fast” concept for busy business cargo. Today this region is the food and market. At home he is responsible for people. Our guests are local and very wine destination of South Africa. the shaping of the mosbolletjies during loyal, but we attract food enthusiasts from the very busy holidays. He also produces all over the world. It is a place filled with Wheat is grown in the southwestern another local favorite, ginger beer, in love. The ingredients are local (except and southeastern Cape region just over which he uses a small portion of Katie’s the chocolate) and natural. The staff is the hills from the cool ocean, and in the liquid ferment to get the bubbles going. friendly and relaxed; many of them have Freestate (a province in central South been with us since our humble beginnings. Africa). Rye is cultivated in the cooler and I am a neighbor at the market (and always We are activists by not serving things wetter mountain regions of the Cederberg, interested in local food), and that's how it like soft drinks and, more importantly, just north of the Cape. For the baker, all started. Katie was kind enough to share by supporting the local growers and there are plenty of old wheat varietals still her famous recipe with me. She invited providers as much as possible. intact, especially on the small farms which me to her house for the weekend to see it have been ”overlooked” by all. Michael cooked up his famous chicken the centralized government pootjiekos, and he had most of his family of the last half century. around to enjoy it.

Farmers forever: It was very interesting speaking to Katie, Katie and Michael between the many hours of fermentation, van Staden about the history of South Africa, the Katie and her husband, times, the changes whether political or Michael, are quiet, social. traditional, sincere people Truly relevant for this report is the fact who as farmers worked that it was not a professional organization and lived off the land (“the that kept the artisanship of baking veld”) for 40 years near the alive. It was the Woman’s Agricultural town of Kroonstadt in the Union of South Africa – or in Afrikaans, f markus farbinger o f markus t esy Freestate province. On their Vroue Landbou Unie – homemakers and o ur s: c Markus Farbinger and Katie van Staden

P hoto with cooling loaves of mosbolletjies.

{ 8 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread

wives of farmers who continued the The hanepoot grape, considered an “an- professional spirit amongst themselves. cient”’ varietal, originated in North Africa, Breads from Several times a year they met for local or and the name is probably derived from its town-wide competitions. The best teams association with ancient Egypt. Interest- South Africa moved to the provincial level. These ing that bread, as we know it today in its Other breads unique to South competitions covered such “professions” leavened form, had a similar birthplace. Africa offer an insight into the as floral design, tailoring, needlework, baking habits of the early settlers. The closest version of the mosbolletjie food preservation, wedding cakes, and Though not practical for a bakery to would be the Austro-Hungarian Buchtel. other disciplines. At the annual national produce, they may have application From a texture point of view, it would be competition the champions were for a farmers market, a campfire, closest to the panettone, albeit not quite determined in teams and individually. or the next time you grill in the as delicate. Mosbolletjies are individual backyard. They usually involve very The Bread Bakers Guild of America has rolls placed, touching each other, into loaf basic wheaten, lean yeast dough. created the same structure to motivate, pans. The rise is mainly vertical, which teach, train, and to create a healthy creates the characteristic stringiness of Stokbrood (stick bread) competitive spirit amongst colleagues to a Buchtel and panettone. The additional A lean dough is rolled out to about sustain this wonderful work that benefits flavour of anise has its origin in the Dutch/ 1cm thickness, cut into 2 - 3cm society and continues a classic tradition. Asian tradition. strips, washed with a bit of water and wrapped around the tip of a Another specialty Katie yard-long broomstick, and baked brings to the market is dried over coals. The strips must be mosbolletjies, called rusks. Truly relevant for this report is the fact that it overlapping to make sure that This is a great use for leftover the finished “tube” stays together was not a professional organization that kept the mosbolletjies. Each roll gets once the stick has been removed. torn off the large loaf, is cut artisanship of baking alive. It was the Woman’s Stokbrood is often drizzled with into quarters (the long side) butter and honey or eaten with Agricultural Union of South Africa – homemakers and then dried on a rack or savory dishes. and wives of farmers who continued the stacked like shingles on a roof (to make sure that they Roesterkoek (roasted bread) professional spirit amongst themselves. can dry from all sides evenly). An individual-sized ciabatta baked It is very important to keep on a grill over coal, eaten with the oven door slightly ajar or butter and jam, or more classically, open the steam exhaust (in a filled with a curry. It is becoming The Mosbolletjie professional oven). Twelve hours of drying very popular at farmers markets. (pronounced moss-bolly-key) at 90°C (194°F) should suffice. Mosbolletjie, little rolls made with or from Askoek (ash bread) lees, draws its name from the original The dry rusks can be stored airtight or A bread that is placed into hot ash leavening agent, the sediment also known wrapped. They are a welcome snack for baking. Brush off the ash before as the lees, from the wine making process anywhere, anytime, and a wonderful eating! which collects at the bottom of the barrel addition to the retail shelf. They are Potbrood (pot bread) after the wine has been removed. delicate and great for dipping in coffee. A simple wheaten bread baked in I have never tried dipping them in Katie’s version uses its own ferment a cast iron pot on coals . Hot coals chocolate, but I am sure that would also generated from the hanepoot grape. are also placed on the lid to create work well! ✹ Once dried, it is a rather sweet and top heat. It can also be baked in a large raisin found in the Western Cape For more information about Markus Farbinger conventional oven. Sometimes the Region. Hanepoot, also known under a and Liezie Mulder’s bakery and café, visit crust is cut off if the outside gets fancier name as Muscat d’Alexandrie, was www.iledepain.co.za too dark. The trick is to “fill” the pot probably developed from Spanish grape with dough when it is already amply cuttings introduced to South Africa pre-heated. by Jan van Rieebeck in the 1650s. It is used for the production of sweet and fortified wines, table grapes, and for raisin production.

bread lines – september 2010 { 9 } world’s fair of bread Katie’s Mosbolletjie Although she was not too worried about boiled for about 15 minutes. The reason sharing her formula, as her customers or for the boiling of the raisins is not known, competitors would only find out the great but I imagine that it is meant to leach out effort and skill she places in each of her more of the internal substances from the batches, I personally would like to ask raisins. The raisins and their natural sugar each person who attempts the formula to may be the main inducer of the fermenta- name it after Katie. tion, as in many raisin starter recipes. In this recipe we boil the raisins. Would that The steps of this not kill off any active ingredients? In any Mosbolletjie formula case the boiled broth, together with the The recipe is divided into four steps: can now be sealed airtight and stored up raisins, is used for the liquid ferment. 1 Three different broths – raisin, potato, to 4 weeks in a refrigerator. This is really and hops to be used to start a liquid The Potato broth convenient as the liquid starter takes quite ferment or to feed a small leftover Potatoes, another classic inducer of a few steps and close monitoring. portion of previously made liquid fermentation, are boiled in water until I see a similarity to making ginger beer ferment they are soft and fall into chunks. The or the Austrian specialty of elderberry 2 A liquid ferment – the mother or entire liquid together with the potatoes blossom sparkler. chef (either continuously fed or (pushed through a sieve) is used for the started anew) liquid ferment. The “sugared” Sourdough (or 3 A liquid sourdough – one could Suurdeeg in africaans) Potatoes used in bread are also known consider this an elaboration The ripe liquid ferment is mixed with to enhance the texture and moisture of 4 The final dough – with long bulk flour, sugar and warm water to yield a enriched breads. fermentation and no folding very liquid sourdough, similar to a poolish. The (more unusual) Hop broth Use a whisk to combine the ingredients. All bakers will be relieved to know that Hot water is poured over the hops (in Either prepare or pour the sourdough the liquid ferment can be stored in the pellets) and gently simmered for about mixture in a tall, narrow container loosely refrigerator for at least 4 weeks. 5 minutes. Once cooled to working covered with a lid and ferment for about The hanepoot broth temperature, the liquid is poured off 8 hours at 26°C. When ready to use, the Split the amount of Hanepoot raisins for dough production and the settled sourdough looks like a ripe poolish. The asked for in the recipe into two piles. In hops are discarded. I had never heard of volume has about tripled and the bubbles one pile each raisin is cut into halves to hops being used in dough production. on the surface keep popping softly. As create a larger surface area, while the The natural antibiotic properties of with a poolish, the sourdough should not raisins of the other pile stay whole. The hops extend the shelf life of beer, and be receding and leave a “high water mark.” cut and the whole raisins are then gently presumably, the mosbolletjie. It also gives Once the fermentation is successful, taste the characteristic aspect of bitterness (the the ripe sourdough. It is almost a delicacy opposite of sweet) to the bread, adding to on its own. The flavors and aromas of the final flavour complexity of this bread. banana, vanilla, port wine, yogurt, and green tea are clearly present. This was The “sugared” liquid ferment quite an exciting discovery. The finished broths are allowed to cool and combined with sugar, flour and liquid Interestingly, Katie van Staden uses ferment leftover from the last batch. The plastic covers and a heating blanket in the final temperature should be about 30°C. It cooler winter months to keep her vats of is poured into a glass jar and stored with a sourdough and buckets of dough at fairly loose cover at about 30°C for 24 hours. If constant temperature. I am sure many one starts the liquid ferment from scratch home bakers will put this clever idea to (without leftover from the previous batch), good use. the fermentation may take an additional The final dough – or – 24 hours, for a total of 48 hours. “finally the Dough!” The raisins will rise to the top once the The final ingredients besides the flavor- f markus farbinger o f markus t esy fermentation is complete. After about ful and complex sweet sourdough are o ur half of the raisins have been removed milk, sugar, butter, eggs, condensed milk s: c and discarded, this liquid, active starter and lemon juice, flour, salt, and whole anise seeds.

P hoto Katie “plucking” mosbolletjies.

{ 10 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread

Process Mosbolletjies RAISIN BROTH Total Desired Soaker Weight 2.400 kg Katie’s anise seeds grabbed my attention, Raisin Broth : Boil water with raisins on low heat for 15 minutes – use all Ingredients % kilograms as they were drop shaped and very mild Potato Broth Hanepoot Raisins* 100.00% 0.400 kg and creamy tasting. I’m not sure what vari- : Boil potatoes until soft – use all ety they were. The addition of condensed Water 500.00% 2.000 kg Hop Broth Total 600.00% 2.400 kg milk as well as lemon juice raised my eye- : Pour boiled water onto hops and simmer for 5 minutes; brows. I was curious to find out how these strain out the hops *The Guild tested this formula using raisins com- monly found in the US, and the formula worked fine. ingredients would affect the final outcome. Liquid Starter : Blend ingredients together – final temp 30-31°C (86-87.8°F) After mixing (Katie mixes vats of about : Put in wide mouthed glass jar; cover loosely with cloth POTATO BROTH 12kg of dough by hand at a time) the : Cover with plastic and warming blanket or place Total Desired Soaker Weight 1.600 kg remaining ingredients into a medium in proofbox at 30°C (86°F) Ingredients % kilograms firm consistency, the dough temperature : Ferment for 24 hours.; raisins will rise; discard 50% Potatoes, peeled & cut in pieces 100.00% 0.600 kg should be 30 - 32°C. This is quite high for : Use or close container tightly with lid and store in Water 166.67% 1.000 kg most artisan bakers. refridgerator for up to 6 weeks Total 266.67% 1.600 kg Sourdough Katie divides the dough into two : Add sugar to flour manageable buckets of about 6kg each : Add warm water – 37°C (98.6°F) HOP BROTH and covers them with plastic and the : Stir in liquid starter Total Desired Soaker Weight 1.010 kg heating blanket to maintain an overnight : Whisk together; cover losely; final temperature 30°C (86°F) Ingredients % kilograms fermentation temperature of 26 – 28°C : Ferment 8-9 hours at 26°C (78.8°F); do not disturb Hops, dried 100.00% 0.010 kg (78.8 - 82.4°F). Final Dough Water 10000.00% 1.000 kg : Bring milk to a boil; add sugar and dissolve Total 10100.00% 1.010 kg After 10 – 12 hours of fermentation the : Add butter to milk mixture and dissolve; final temp 35°C (95°F) dough has developed fully. It must not : Combine eggs, condensed milk and lemon juice be on the verge of falling but rather be : Sift flour; add salt and anise seed Formula for Perpetuation plump and bulging. There was no folding : Add milk mixture; egg mixture and sourdough of the liquid starter involved. The dough gets “plucked” into : Mix into smooth; medium firm dough for 10 min slow speed Total Dough Weight (TDW) 5.653 kg : Final temperature 30°C (86°F); Room temp 26°C (78.8°F) 100g rolls, rounded and tightly placed into LIQUID STARTER : Ferment 10-12 hours at 28°C (82.4°F) loaf pans that have been lined with baking Ingredients % kilograms : Divide into 100g units; shape round paper. Katie uses roasting bags cut to size : Line baking pan 35x10x8cm with baking paper or silicone Total Flour 100.00% 0.300 kg and attaches them with a light touch of sheets cut to size Wheat Flour 100.00% 0.300 kg oil to the mould. She re-uses them several : Place 2 rows of 8 rounded dough pieces into pan (16 per pan) Sugar 133.33% 0.400 kg times. She does not like the “fatty” crust : Proof for 4 hours at 28°C (82.4°F) 3 Broth Mix, equal parts 1500.00% 4.500 kg which stains paper and fingers. : Brush with egg wash (150g milk; 1 egg) Old Liquid Starter 151.00% 0.453 kg : Bake at 160°C (320°F) for 60-70 minutes After a final proof of about 4 hours at Total 1884.33% 5.653 kg 28°C (82.4°F), the dough has risen well above the edge of the loaf pan. mosbolletjies An egg wash made of milk and eggs Total Flour is applied before the loaves are Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.910 kg Prefermented 10.34% baked for 60 – 70 minutes at 160°C Total Formula sourdough final dough (320°F). The loaves are allowed to Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms rest for about 5 minutes before they Total Flour 100.00% 5.800 kg 100.00% 0.600 kg 5.201 kg are gently turned out and placed Wheat Flour 100.00% 5.800 kg 100.00% 0.600 kg Wheat Flour 5.201 kg on a cooling rack. This is a light, yet Water 4.48% 0.260 kg 43.35% 0.260 kg substantial sweetbread served as a Sugar 23.10% 1.340 kg 56.69% 0.340 kg Sugar 1.000 kg snack with milk, coffee or tea. Milk 30.17% 1.750 kg Milk 1.750 kg After the loaves cool, Katie wraps Butter 8.62% 0.500 kg Butter 0.500 kg them carefully in plastic wrap. Well Eggs 3.45% 0.200 kg Eggs 0.200 kg stored, the mosbolletjies last 8 days Condensed Milk 6.90% 0.400 kg Condensed Milk 0.400 kg at room temperature. They also freeze Lemon Juice 1.03% 0.060 kg Lemon Juice 0.060 kg extremely well. ✹ Salt 0.86% 0.050 kg Salt 0.050 kg Anise Seed, whole 0.86% 0.050 kg Anise Seed, whole 0.050 kg NOTES : Old Mosbolletjies can be sliced or quartered Liquid Starter (seed), strained 8.62% 0.500 kg 83.37% 0.500 kg and placed on a cooling rack and dried at Sourdough 1.700 kg 90°C (194°F) for 12 hours with open damper Totals 188.09% 10.910 kg 283.41% 1.700 kg 10.910 kg (very important to retain delicate crispness). : They can be stored in a closed tin for months. *The Guild tested this formula using a HRW, 11.7% protein white flour, with success. bread lines – september 2010 { 11 } world’s fair of bread

By christy timon Guild Member and Co-owner, the mysteries Clear Flour Bread, Brookline, MA of Sfogliatelle Biagio Settipani’s class was an from long repetition and deep familiarity. just until the interesting and product-dense view into How could you go wrong learning baking dough came the tradition-filled world of Italian holiday from a man whose last name translates to together and baking, a world where almost everything “seven breads”? then developed has a symbolic link to Italian history, on a sheeter. The class began early in the new Culinary culture, and religion. Then the Arts building at Johnson and Wales in dough was given two 3-folds, sheeted to Biagio is a wonderful, generous, bear of Providence, RI. We took one look at the the thinnest setting and rolled up on a a man who, as his friend Robert Ellinger white board and knew we had a lot of rolling pin. Beginning with the free end said, “looks like a hit man, but is a Master work ahead of us: tapered to a point, Biagio began rolling it Baker instead.” He grew up baking in the Boboloni (a doughnut) up again while liberally slathering it with Sicilian tradition, as practiced in Brooklyn, : St Joseph Zeppole shortening. He moved quickly so the pin- New York, starting at the age of 13 as an : Sfinge rolled body of dough didn’t stick together apprentice in a small pastry shop. His : Baba au Rum and finished with a tube of dough 4 to 5 talents and interests took him back to the : Easter Sweet Bread inches in diameter and about 2.5 feet long. “homeland” to complete his understanding : Pandolce Genovese (Christmas ‘cookie’) It was like watching him wrestle with a of some of the most complex processes in : “S” Breakfast Biscotti boa constrictor! Italian baking, including pannetone. Today, : Regina Cookies together with his family, he also runs two : The dough was given an overnight Struffoli (honey balls) Patisserie Bruno Bakeries on Staten Island. : refrigerated retard, followed the next day Pannetone (Alto Genovese Style) : by elongation of the tube by two people This class was an opportunity to watch Pizza Rustica (deep-dish meat and : gripping it and pulling-sliding their hands someone work with the beauty, economy ricotta torte) along its length to make a narrower, longer of motion, and assurance that comes only Pastiera di Grano : tube. This was then sliced into ½” thick (Easter Ricotta Grain Pie) disks, and we worked these individually to We spent the first two hours scaling coax a clam shape from the disk, bending out the ingredients, assisted by Richard and smoothing the swirled layers without Miscovich and Robert Ellinger. Over the breaking them. This ”cup” was then filled next two days, Biagio demonstrated with choux paste and the pastry laid on the mixing and makeup of each of the its side, the open edges coming together products on the list. to enclose the choux. While baking, the pastry extended itself, blooming, with And if the list of products was not long the layers separating and browning, and enough already, at the request of one of the choux making an invisible void in the attendees, Biagio added sfogliatelle, the center. The final crowning touch was the clam shaped, super-crisp pastry that is adding pastry cream to the center; the filled with choux and pastry cream. It looks crust shattered as it yielded to the soft, as if it was made from puff dough, but it is cool interior. It’s hard to describe how impossible to tell how. This went beyond good this was and how amazing it was to anything in my baking experience. witness the transformation from rough Taking this class solved a few mysteries dough to a high-art pastry. and created others by exposing me to At another point in the class, we were things I didn’t even know I wanted to treated to a demonstration of “air shaping” make. Seeing the sfogliatelle go from mix of the super soft baba au rhum dough. to bake was like seeing an impossible The dough never touched the table! Biagio journey made real. The mix was of the took up a volume of dough in one hand, firmest lean dough that was combined and by repeatedly letting it slide through his hand, tossing it up and catching it, he Clockwise from upper left: stretched the piece of dough, pinched it St. Joseph zeppole, struffoli, boboloni, off and placed it in a pan. A large number baba au rhum, sfogliatelle.

{ 12 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread of small molds were filled in a matter of a 12 hours later. The heavily fruited bread italian holiday minute or two, and they baked off evenly. proofed overnight and was just baking at baking the start of our second day of class. What We also touched on the sourdough May 15 – 16 a nice way to start the day! initiated pannetone in the Alto Genovese Hosted by Style. Biagio took us through the care The first thing I experimented with when Johnson & Wales University and refreshment of the Madre: three I came back to my bakery was the Pizza Providence, RI feedings a day at four-hour intervals Rustica, which everyone loved, so we are Richard Miscovich – Liaison with compression storage overnight. We sharing the formula for it here. began the class with the refreshment of Instructor It was a wonderful class, both inspiring the Madre after its overnight rest, and Biagio Settepani and delicious. Our customers will benefit returned to refresh it twice more before directly from Biagio’s great generosity. ✹ using a portion to initiate the pannetone 

Pizza Rustica Contributed by biagio settepani crust preparation : Planetary Mixer: With paddle, mix well, do : Mix together in a bowl the cubed sausage : Mix together sifted flour, vegetable not over mix. and the mozzarella. shortening, butter and salt. : Refrigerate 2-3 hours. : Fill ⅓ prepared shell with ricotta filling, : Add slowly whole egg. : For 6" x 2⅛" mold, scale 226g bottom with 200g, then starting with the thin and 100g top. sliced sausage, a meat layer, 50g ricotta : Roll out bottoms and line shells. filling, the diced meat and cheese with PIZZA RUSTICA CRUST proscuitto on top, and finish with 200g filling preparation ricotta filling. Total Dough Weight (TDW) 3.114 kg* : Cook rice. Boil water, add rice, stir 1x, : Top with pre-rolled top crust, trim edges Total Formula simmer for 20 minutes. Then fluff. Cool with scissors and roll excess in to make Ingredients % kilograms completely. edge. Prick top, eggwash twice. Pastry Flour 100.00% 1.700 kg : Mix ricotta with Parmesan cheese, rice, : Bake at 350˚F for 30-45 minutes. (325˚F Vegetable Shortening** 40.00% 0.680 kg salt, pepper, parsley. Reserve. convection oven.) ✹ Butter (Plugra) 13.40% 0.228 kg : Slowly add egg to desired consistency, Salt 0.40% 0.007 kg medium soft. Whole Egg 29.40% 0.500 kg Total 183.20% 3.114 kg

*Yield: 9 plus a little left over. **For an all butter dough: use 50% plugra, 28% egg, cut cold butter into flour, add egg. Mix just enough to bring together, chill, let rest and continue with next step.

PIZZA RUSTICA FILLING Total Dough Weight (TDW) 7.320 kg* Total Formula

Ingredients % kilograms s: abram faber Arborio Rice, raw (0.453 kg rice + 1.360 kg H20) 100.00% 1.600 kg Ricotta Impastata 171.88% 2.750 kg P hoto Grated Parmesan Cheese 12.50% 0.200 kg Top left: Assembling Pizza Rustica. Top right: A slice of Salt to taste Pizza Rustica. Bottom: Pizza Black Pepper, ground to taste Rustica before slicing. Chopped Parsley 1.00% 0.016 kg Mozzarella (for pizza, drier style) ¼" dice 42.50% 0.680 kg Diced Salami, small dice (@4" diam sausage) 42.50% 0.680 kg Dry Sausage, thin sliced (@2" diam sausage) 21.25% 0.340 kg Sliced Prosciutto 28.38% 0.454 kg Whole Egg 37.50% 0.600 kg Total 457.50% 7.320 kg *Filling for 9 plus a little left over. bread lines – september 2010 { 13 } world’s fair of bread breads of india June 5 – 6

beyond naan Hosted by California Culinary Academy Rohit Singh, Guild member and instructor for The Guild’s Indian Bread Craft class, is the San Francisco, CA chef/owner of the award-winning Breads of India & Gourmet Curries in the San Francisco Mike Kalanty – Liaison Bay Area. He regularly travels to remote areas of India to search for and document herbs Breads of India Restaurant and spices, lost recipes, and cooking techniques. Singh has introduced more than 175 Oakland, CA breads from the Indian sub-continent at his restaurants, and is currently working on a Rohit Singh - Liaison book on classical and regional cuisine of India. In this class, he taught students to make Instructor tandoor-oven baked naans, kulchas and chapatis, deep-fried pooris, and filled parathas Rohit Singh cooked on a griddle top. ✹ 

2 3

1

6 5 1 Guild member Alan Cohn displays the paratha dough he mixed. 2 Class instructor Rohit shows the class rounded dough to be rolled out to make paratha. 3 Chef Instructor Rohit Singh preshapes the paratha before rolling with a pin. oo d 4 Alan Cohn rolling out paratha dough. 5 Guild member David Colker brushes ghee (melted, clarified butter) over

S : brian w the just griddled paratha. 6 Chef Singh demonstrates 4 preshaping for a stuffed flatbread called Punjabi Keema PHOTO paratha. 7 Chef Singh stuffing paratha dough with seasoned ground lamb to make Punjabi Keema paratha. 7

{ 14 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread MILL EXCURSION June 9 albany mill excursion Hosted by Horizon Milling, Albany, NY Horizon Milling Tour Karen Horton – Liaison

By tod bramble Mill Tour Leaders Guild Board of Directors and King Arthur Flour Company, Norwich, VT Tod Bramble Tom Crell The Horizon Milling mill tour took “flow”) before we entered the mill and got place on a rainy day, June 9, at their into walking up and down the various facility in Albany, New York. As one of the floors, each dedicated to a particular step  organizers of the tour, I was really hoping in the process. that the composition of the group would We then broke into two groups, with one about a part of milling that most bakers be a good mix of bakers from all over the group led by Ted through the mill and agree they need to know more about. Northeast. As the cars started arriving the other group led by Aaron Whitcomb, and people began to check in, it became It was a fantastic tour, hosted and led by a Quality Manager, through the quality lab, apparent that I got the group I was hoping very gracious group of dedicated people. the warehouse and packing line. for. People were driving in from just about After everyone had left and I was saying every state in New England and New York I think everyone was glad we’d had the my goodbyes and thank yous, the mill’s and New Jersey as well. We had serious overview. By the time we had put on hard General Manager, Alois Hollenstein, ex- home bakers and bakers from small and hats and ear protection, it was tough pressed how grateful he was to have had large bakeries. This is what we were to hear, and the tight spaces made it the opportunity for his people to meet hoping for, because not only would we difficult to gather around Ted when he bakers, many of whom use their flour. Just have a chance to learn about flour milling, was speaking. At several points along as bakers can often feel a disconnect with we would also have the opportunity to the tour, Ted stopped and pulled out a the source of their ingredients, the millers learn from each other. sample from the bottom of a sifter box or can experience the same lack of connec- under a set of mill rolls so we could see tion. With tours like this, both groups are After coffee and pastries and the separations that were happening at better able to understand the challenges introductions, we sat down and got various points in the process. the other faces. started. One of the logistical challenges ✹ of holding a tour at such a large mill is the In the lab, where they maintain customers’ The Horizon Mill Excursion is one of three Mill noise factor: it is almost impossible to hear specifications and stay on top of quality Tours presented by The Guild this year. Guild when the mill is running. Shutting down in general, it was much easier to talk, and Members will tour General Mill’s Avon mill on the mill for our tour was not an option. everyone had many questions for Aaron. October 12. We could have easily spent two hours So we began with a milling overview there, and Aaron is a wealth of knowledge given by Tom Crell, Technical Service Representative for the Eastern Region. Tom ran through the major topics of milling and answered questions. After a short break we dove into the specifics of the Albany Mill. Ted Piel, Assistant Facility Manager, presented a great overview of how this particular mill is laid out and offered insights into some of the challenges presented by milling such a large quantity of wheat while maintaining the tight specifications that each of their customer’s demands. This was important, as we could see the whole layout (the t ein

Albany Mill Excursion participants pose for a photo with tour leaders Tom Crell (front

row, third from left), Tod Bramble (third o is ho llens row, second from left) and facility liaison Karen Horton (front row, far left). : al photo bread lines – september 2010 { 15 } world’s fair of bread Introduction to artisan bread June 19 – 20 artisan bread 101 Hosted by By del wong Guild Member and Serious Home Baker, Honolulu, HI The San Francisco Baking Institute In June 2010 my daughter Marie and On Saturday morning at 8:00am sharp, we South San Francisco, CA I flew from Hawaii to San Francisco to arrived at SFBI in South San Francisco. It Erin Bailey and participate in The Guild’s Master Class, was a bit intimidating at first, walking into Laura Luna – Liaisons Introduction to Artisan Bread, at the that huge interior space! But as the day San Francisco Baking Institute. Marie went on (class ended around 4pm each Instructor is enrolled at a baking/culinary degree day), things became familiar, and by the Miyuki Togi program at a local community college and conclusion of the workshop it really felt as has been baking for just under a year. I’m if we were leaving home!  a home baker, and for the past four years We were told that this introductory course I’ve baked at least two loaves of bread was the equivalent of SFBI’s Artisan every week. lecture (theoretical) to hands on your Bread I and Artisan Bread II (10 days bread dough (practical) was about 50-50 My baking is self-taught, from books and of instruction) distilled into a two-day with perhaps a slight leaning towards online videos. I realized early on that not workshop. practical. Our particular class of 11 only was I baking in total isolation, but By the end of day two, my mind was students included five professional bakers. also that whatever baking skills I acquired almost numb with all the information For me this was a perfect mix, as the more were crude and unrefined from a lack of presented. Luckily, I took a whole bunch professional questions they asked Miyuki guidance from an experienced baker. I of written notes, and the course binder in- helped me understand bread baking more decided that the Guild class was exactly cluded all PowerPoint class material, plus intimately. what I needed. bread formulations and supplemental info. The most fun for me was interacting Our instructor, Miyuki Togi, was with the other students and being in the excellent, and she does know her stuff. hands-on “laboratory.” Most of the breads She was always open to answering we baked consisted of just flour, water, questions privately during breaks. yeast and salt. But I’ve learned more (a I would say that the ratio of class LOT more) about how to develop flavor in a consistent and orderly way - using sourdough and diastatic malt, for instance. I’ve also learned how to shape/form my breads properly.

Miyuki said that skill with bread scoring, to break out that open crust, comes with practice. Oh, gosh, what a punishment! Excuse me while I go back to practice baking a lot more yummy bread. ✹

Clockwise from top left: Class members shape baguettes z t for proofing. Cutting a few shaped baguettes to make ‘epis’. Instructor Miyuki Togi oversees the shaping of baguettes, and demonstrates the proper technique. h er : zac photo

{ 16 } the bread bakers guild of america world’s fair of bread

Breads from breads from the wood-fired oven July 9 - 10 the wood-fired oven Hosted by King Arthur Baking Center By samuel fromartz Guild Member and Serious Home Baker, Washington, DC Norwich, VT Susan Miller – Liaison

Instructor For those who wanted to learn Jeffrey Hamelman about wood-fired baking, Jeffrey Hamelman's class at the King Arthur Guildhall Gathering Flour Baking Education Center gave a King Arthur Baking solid introduction. A dozen teachers, Education Center professional and serious amateur bakers Susan Miller descended on Norwich, Vermont, for the one and a half day class, which included techniques, in-depth oven  discussions and baking in the massive Le Panyol oven on-site. bit of filling – spicy tomato or feta cheese, scallions and cilantro – we folded the The first day was devoted to doughs. disks in half and sealed the edges. They We shaped seeded sourdough loaves puffed up in the oven in about 30 seconds. that Jeffrey had already mixed up, then Needless to say, the class devoured them. fed a culture for a miche we would bake the next day. Also on deck – a pizza The next morning, Jeffrey fired up the dough that would retard overnight, oven again. “Thin sticks are best,” he said, whole wheat flatbread and socca, a adding kindling 2-3 inches in diameter. chickpea dough with the consistency of With the fire roaring, we mixed our miche batter cooked in a pan. dough, then let it rise and shaped it during the day. For the flatbread with high-extraction flour, Jeffrey had mixed unyeasted We made pizzas for lunch with the dough dough eight hours earlier. We then and toppings of our choice. Once in the scaled out two ounce portions and, oven, the outer crust puffed up quickly after half an hour, flattened them with a in the 750-degree heat and was done rolling pin into eight-inch disks. With a in all of two minutes. The pizza did not disappoint. Jeffrey then raked out the coals and let the heat subside, so we could bake our seeded loaves and then the giant miches – all of which marked a delicious end to an extremely productive class. ✹

Top: Students in the class scale out ingredients. Middle: Instructor Jeffrey Hamelman scales dough. Bottom: Students in Breads from e ot the Wood-Fired Oven socialize with instructor Jeffrey Hamelman. : suzanne c photoS

bread lines – september 2010 { 17 } technical article

By renee zonka gluten-free baking Guild Member and Associate Dean, Kendall College, Chicago, IL Managing gluten is integral to quality bread making. As bakers, we try to central nervous system disorders, vitamin romance the dough by manipulating it through fermentation, folding and resting, and mineral deficiencies, kidney disease, all in hopes of creating the perfect cell structure to capture gases for the perfect and osteoporosis. It is important to get rise and crumb. Suddenly, we are faced with a request to produce a baked good a proper diagnosis so that treatment can occur and long-term damage can be that is gluten-free. It can be quite a challenge for those who know how to modify avoided. a recipe for gluten-free and nearly impossible for those who don’t. Diagnosis is a two-step process. A blood The purest of all bakers feel it cannot be is a chronic digestive disorder with a test for specific antigens is done. If it called bread without gluten and shudder genetic predisposition to intolerance of is positive, the next step is a biopsy of at the thought of modifying formulas to the gluten molecule. This intolerance is the small intestine. Cells of the small produce a yeasted product without gluten. categorized as an autoimmune disease intestine are checked for damage. If there But there is a growing population that is that produces antigens to destroy the is damage, a diagnosis of celiac disease demanding gluten-free products. This gluten molecule. The destruction usually is made. rapidly growing industry brings about occurs in the upper part of the small The third category, celiac disease, is 1,500 new products to the market each intestine. The small intestine has finger gluten intolerance that has been clinically year. Gluten-free breads, crackers, cookies, like projections known as villi. In gluten diagnosed. This may take a couple of pies, muffins, and breakfast goods are intolerance, the villi are destroyed by the attempts, since there are high incidences found on the shelves and in the freezers antigens. The villi erode away, and the of false negatives. Once the diagnosis of of grocery stores. Even good tasting, small intestine tissue becomes smooth celiac disease is made, the only treatment gluten-free beers have hit the market at and no longer absorbs nutrients or is a gluten-free diet. Many people who a remarkable rate. The market demand digests lactose. This is why many people feel they might be gluten intolerant will is so strong that even big companies like who are gluten intolerant are also lactose put themselves on a gluten-free diet. General Mills and Kellogg have started intolerant. Other allergies such as egg, However, if they want to be tested, they to make gluten-free mixes and cereals. So soy and casein are often common with must go back to eating gluten again. For what is driving this demand? people who have celiac disease. many people, it is not worth the suffering The US population has seen a rise in Sensitivity to gluten varies; there are to get a formal diagnosis. They will just gluten intolerance over the past 10 years three main categories. Those who are continue to follow a gluten-free diet. from 1 person in 350 to 1 person in 120, gluten sensitive can consume gluten on Once the diet is followed with 100% depending on what area of the country occasion without much damage occurring, compliance, the small intestine heals is being reviewed. It is estimated that at with only a few bothersome symptoms. and functions properly again. This may least 1% of the population in the United People who are gluten intolerant have take three to four months. The disease States have gluten intolerance or celiac more severe reactions to gluten and never goes away but is controlled. If disease, and it is thought that, of this continually feel bad, with symptoms of someone is non-compliant, the reaction group, as many as 95% have not yet been bloating, distention, diarrhea, fogginess, to the gluten ingestion is immediate. The diagnosed with celiac disease. The cause abdominal pain, rash, low energy and body’s defenses immediately begin. The of this rise has proven difficult to pinpoint. low growth rate. However, at times tissue of the small intestine is attacked It is speculated that as physicians become this same population may have no by the natural antigens seeking the more aware of the symptoms of the symptoms at all. They will seek medical gluten molecule. This is why compliance disease, they are testing more frequently, attention but are often misdiagnosed is imperative. Each person’s sensitivity and these tests are increasingly more as having irritable bowel syndrome, to gluten varies from few symptoms accurate. Others point to the prevalence gastrointestinal disturbance, Crohn’s to feeling very ill when walking into of wheat in our diet, with the result being disease or psychological issues. These a bakery where flour is airborne. an increased sensitivity to it. Whatever people continue to feel bad for many Individuals quickly learn how to manage the reason, celiac disease is becoming years. It takes an average of 11 years for their disease. better known by the community as it diagnosis. Gluten intolerance that is not increases in incidence. treated over time causes deterioration in A person with celiac disease becomes a the body. It can trigger other autoimmune private investigator, searching to uncover Celiac disease is not a wheat allergy. It diseases like lupus, juvenile diabetes all of the hidden forms of gluten in food is different from an allergy because it (Type 1), Hashimoto’s thyroid disease, and non-food items. Reading labels does not cause an immediate threat to dermatitis herpatiformis, fibromyalgia, becomes very important. The labeling the body, such as anaphylactic shock. It infertility, low growth rate in children, laws have regulated manufacturing

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environments for some allergens but simulate these popular and enjoyable gluten flours. Equipment and baking By renee zonka have not addressed gluten. A labeling law foods. In addition, gluten is found in non- pans, rollers, sheeters, tools and utensils Guild Member and Associate Dean, Kendall College, Chicago, IL specifically for gluten was proposed but food items such as generic medications, should be new and dedicated to gluten- never passed because of the discrepancy body creams, makeup, lipstick and some free baking. Ovens need to be cleaned, of acceptable parts per million of gluten. shampoos. It can be overwhelming to and crumbs burned. It is best to have It is anticipated that the law will be purchase totally gluten-free items; it’s a a separate oven. If these requirements redrafted soon. complete lifestyle change. cannot be met, then gluten-free products should not be offered. The task of selecting items that are What about the person who likes to dine truly gluten-free is daunting. There are out or purchase items from bakeries? This The challenge and the reward for the many foods that are naturally gluten- is difficult, and the person is dependent baker to provide a gluten-free product is free, such as produce, fresh dairy, meats, on the knowledge and integrity of the learning new formulas using non-gluten rice, potatoes, eggs, plain nuts, sorghum, professional food preparer to provide containing flours and gums that attempt buckwheat, quinoa, amaranth, teff, truly gluten-free food. There is a large to replicate their gluten counterpart. tapioca, xanthan gum, guar gum, coffee demand from the gluten-free community It is learning a new skill and putting and some tea. Grains that need to be for baked goods; fulfilling that need baking science into play. When success avoided are: wheat, including bulghur and can be quite profitable. The baker who is achieved and the product is delicious, semolina,. Also, wheat’s close relatives, decides to offer gluten-free products the lucky gluten-free consumer will be spelt and kamut, are difficult to digest. has a responsibility to be forthright. overjoyed. There is nothing better than Other problematic grains include rye, The challenge for the baker is possible seeing the pleasure and excitement of barley, and non gluten-free oats. Foods to cross contamination of wheat, rye and someone biting into a delicious treat be avoided are pastas, processed foods, barley flours with equipment, surfaces that had been forbidden for a long time, soy sauce, baked goods, crackers, breads and people, and the flour is also airborne. or a bride being able to eat wedding and cookies. Fortunately, there are many To provide a gluten-free product, an cake on her special day. It is challenging, gluten-free alternatives available that area needs to be cordoned off, free of rewarding and profitable. ✹

Guild Members Using Heirloom Wheat By thomas leonard

Guild Member and Founder, Wheatfields Bakery Café, Lawrence, KS : TH o m le nard P hoto

In the last issue of Breadlines (Volume 18, Issue 2 - June, 2010) Thom Leonard surveyed wheat in all its current forms in his technical article: "What Wheat Is: From Landrace to GMO". In this article Thom talks with a couple of Guild Members who are using flour milled from traditional varieties of wheat (and other grains) in their bakeries.

Red Hen Baking Company Like heirloom vegetables and fruit, flour A whole wheat loaf baked by author Thom Leonard The sticker on the front of the bag of from heirloom wheat costs more than using Turkey Wheat. David Bauer from Farm and Sparrow Bakery says of baking with this wheat: Red Hen Baking Company’s Miche says flour milled from modern varieties. “With Turkey I can make the kind of bread I like.” “With Heirloom Grain.” Text on the back So why does Red Hen use flour milled of the bag briefly explains that some of from Turkey wheat? Randy George, who capitalized on that, beyond the little bit of the flour is milled from “Turkey” hard red owns the Middlesex, Vermont, bakery information on the bags, and a brief story winter wheat, the wheat that Mennonite with his wife, Eliza Cain, explains: “Some on the bakery’s website. families carried with them when they of our reasons for using the Turkey flours immigrated to Kansas in 1873. This is the Randy sees using flour milled from are very much like our reasons for using bread equivalent of a restaurant serving heirloom wheat as part of the same milieu organic ingredients; we believe in the a tomato salad made from Cherokee as hearth ovens, natural leavening, and ideas of organic agriculture, and we want Purple heirloom tomatoes – except that hand shaping – and that is integral to his to support the people involved. With the the bread really doesn’t look significantly vision of bread making. Making bread Turkey flour, there really isn’t that big of different than other bread on the shelf. the way they do allows their bakers to be a flavor difference, especially with the And while it has great flavor – it’s not so part of a tradition of baking that started refined, roller-milled flour.” Randy goes obviously different from other well-made, thousands of years ago and continues on to say that there may be a marketing naturally leavened, hearth-baked breads. advantage, but that Red Hen hasn’t really Continued on next page

bread lines – september 2010 { 19 } technical article

HEIRLOOM WHEAT About Turkey Hard Red Winter Wheat Continued from previous page The Turkey variety of hard red winter winter wheat, virtually all of it Turkey, yet today. Heirloom wheat, especially the wheat was introduced to Kansas in was planted on some five million acres Turkey wheat he uses, fits into that same 1873, carried by Mennonite immigrants in Kansas alone. In the meantime, it tradition. From the beginning days of Red from Crimea in the Ukraine who were had become the primary wheat variety Hen, Randy and Eliza wanted to know the fleeing Russian forced military service. throughout the plains from the Texas source of their flour and “to be involved While no statistics were kept of the Panhandle to South Dakota. Without in its story.” Today most of the bakery’s actual amount of seed carried in this Turkey wheat, there would be no flour comes from either Le Meunerie earliest introduction, estimates based Breadbasket. Milanaise Mill across the border in Quebec on vernacular history range from as Today hard red winter wheat is planted or from Heartland Mill in Marienthal, little as 360 pounds (one peck per each on twice the acreage in Kansas than Kansas – see Randy’s article in the June of 24 families) to as much as 36,000 a century ago, some ten million acres. 2010 issue (Volume 18, issue 2) of Bread pounds (one bushel per each of the 600 While half the genes in the modern Lines. He likes using Heartland’s flour, not families). This is enough to plant 6 to wheat crop have their origin in the old just for its performance quality, but also 600 acres. Turkey wheat, only a hundred acres of because he likes supporting a small mill The Mennonite history relates that this actual Turkey were planted for harvest in that was started by a group of farmers. seed was carefully hand selected for the summer of 2009, on the same north- At Heartland, Randy observes, wheat is the soundest kernels and packed in west Kansas farm that is the source of not just a commodity, but the tangible the luggage of the immigrants on their the heirloom flour in our bread. evidence of the mill’s relationships with long journey to new farms in a new and the growers. In the field, Turkey wheat is taller than distant land. These farm families gave its modern semi-dwarf descendants. When flour milled from Turkey wheat us more than seed – they also carried It yields less wheat per acre but does became available, Red Hen was one of with them the agricultural knowledge retain its cold and drought hardiness the first to start using it. For Randy, using and skills necessary for this crop to be and its resistance to the most common the heirloom wheat deepened the “story,” successful in Kansas, where the climate wheat diseases. which now included the story of the old and soils were much like the Ukraine. wheat variety and deepened the nature of (In 2009 Turkey variety hard red winter The farmers and the wheat thrived – the the bakery’s relationship to the one of the wheat was added to Slow Food USA’s variety proved well-adapted to the soils primary ingredient sources. He now knew Ark of Taste. Though not generally and the hot summers and cold winters not just the mill, but who had grown his regarded as a bread wheat, Sonoran of the Kansas plains. wheat and the history of the variety being White Wheat was also added to the grown. This is identity preserved flour In the mid-1880s, grainsman Bernard Slow Food USA Ark of Taste in 2009, taken to the extreme. Warkentin imported some 10,000 and is available regionally. For more bushels of Turkey seed from the Ukraine, information on these wheats and the “We’re not using this wheat because it’s the first commercially available to the Slow Food USA Ark of Taste, go to: old. We’re not into historic preservation,” general public. That 10,000 bushels www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/ clarifies Randy. “We use machinery, we (600,000 pounds) would plant some programs/ark_product_detail/turkey_ have a modern, gas-fired oven, but it is 150 square miles (10,000 acres). By the hard_red_winter_wheat/) important that we see that we are carry- beginning of the 20th century, hard red ing on a tradition. The Turkey flour is part of that. This is not the past; this is some- thing that is happening here and now.”

Here are a few comments from Randy on using the Turkey flour:

“At first it was a little challenging, but I like s: tho m le o nard being challenged . . .The bread is really

P hoto good. . . Why make bad bread? There’s a little less loaf volume. The bolted flour is

An example of fabulous with all kinds of flavor.” Thom Leonard’s “This is good flour – we’re not doing this whole wheat batards, made with because of any special qualities that 100% Turkey wheat. anyone is going to notice. . . For now,

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we’re using the Turkey flours in breads how much there is to with long traditions and with some whole learn, and realizes that grain: pain de campagne, pain au levain, he’s “just getting started, and our miche.” and could spend the next 100 years learning. Using “Dough from the flour is a little less tolerant these older grain just than that from our regular organic white opens more possibilities.” flour. We have reduced the times for mixing, fermentation, and final proofing.” Neither of these bakers is using old grain varieties A field of Turkey wheat on the Stephen’s (Some of the lack of tolerance may not Family Farm in Jennings, Kansas. because they’re going be a trait of Turkey wheat but rather may to “make a million bucks” be due to low protein in the 2009 crop. (Randy said that), but more because of Wheat protein was in the high 10s, with the cultural connections, because it fits white flour protein around 9%.) A question about into their personal vision of what it is to protein quantity be a baker, and because the wheat offers Farm and Sparrow Because the entire available Turkey David Bauer bakes bread and pastries in a them rewarding challenges. There are at crops of 2008 and 2009 were from converted two-car garage at his home in least three other bakeries using flour one farm, and because the protein Marshall, North Carolina, in a custom-built from Turkey wheat in at least some of of those crops was low, especially in wood-fired oven. Virtually all of the wheat their breads. ✹ 2009, bakers who chose to use flour flours used in their breads are milled from ADDENDA: In Canada, quite a few bakers from Turkey wheat were faced with Turkey heirloom wheat. Many of Farm and are using flour milled from Red Fife hard making bread with lower protein Sparrow’s bread varieties also include a red spring wheat. What Turkey is to the flour than that to which most US craft fair amount of alternative wheats (spelt winter wheat bread basket, Red Fife bakers have become accustomed. In and Kamut), and rye. The Turkey wheat is is to the wheat lands of the northern 2009 the wheat protein was under not the only old variety David uses. A lo- prairies. Much good information can 11%, with roller-milled flour protein cal farmer provides grits from white corn be found online, starting here: averaging in the high nines. Of the that has been grown on his family’s farm www.grassrootsolutions.com. five bakers with whom I have spoken, since “before the Civil War.” More about landrace and heirloom wheat all were happy with the bread they David uses older grain varieties primarily can be learned at the following websites made from the three flours they used: because of personal preference, and or blogs: whole wheat, bolted, and roller-milled. makes a living in the process. When : Anson Mills: www.ansonmills.com At least one of the bakers actually I asked him why he liked the flour, he : The Whole Grain Connection: preferred the bread made from the explained that he liked breads with a more www.sustainablegrains.org Turkey wheat. tender crumb that result from flours with : The Heritage Wheat Conservancy: Is this a property unique to the Turkey lower gluten contents. He finds the dough www.growseed.org wheat? Or would good quality wheat made with the Turkey flours extremely from other low protein, hard red “giving,” though not nearly as extensible All the 2008 and 2009 Turkey wheat winter wheats perform as well? We’ve as Kamut or spelt. “Whole wheat breads came from one farm: the Stephens’ Fam- become accustomed to using nothing made with high protein wheat may smell ily Farm in Jennings, Kansas. The 2010 below 11% protein in our breads, and great and have good volume, but the harvest is from the Stephens’ Decatur many mills offer “artisan bread flour” finished crumb is tough. With Turkey, I County farm plus three others in Scott that is closer to 12.5% protein. can make the kind of bread I like,” David and Wichita counties in west-central reports. “There are challenges with some Kansas. Heartland Mill makes three flours variations in hydration and mixing times, from the wheat: stone-milled whole wheat, but this is really not an issue. I like to have stone-milled bolted flour and roller-milled Thom Leonard has been involved in the re- my hands in the works.” When David unbleached flour. The whole grain wheat introduction of “Turkey” hard winter wheat started to learn to bake, he thought the berries are also available. since the early 1980s. “Heritage Grain and learning process might take a year, and Seed” is the name given to an heirloom flour then he could start his career and just project founded by Mr. Leonard and Deborah bake. Now he says he’s beginning to see Peterson in 2008. Heartland Mill, Inc., a supplier of Turkey wheat and flours is a client of Mr. Leonard’s consulting business.

bread lines – september 2010 { 21 } TEAM usa 2010

TEAM USA 2010: By jeremey gadouas Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2010 Introduction to Viennoiserie We asked Jeremey Gadouas, the Viennoiserie representative for Team USA 2010 to write an article about the fundamentals of croissant dough. He has made many thousands of croissants in the last year, both in practice and in production, and we hope his experience helps you in your pursuits for the perfect croissant. The photos are from Dara Reimers (Artistic Design, Team USA 2008) who helped coach the recent practice at the San Francisco Baking Institute, where the final team decisions were made. – Introduction by Solveig Tofte, Guild Board member and Team USA 2010 Coordinator Overview When mixing croissant dough, there are The temperature and consistency of the 1st speed for four minutes to incorporate some important factors that need to be laminating butter and détrempe (dough ingredients. considered, all revolving around time block) need to be similar so they sheet : Mix on 2nd speed to achieve medium and temperature. It is important that this out together. The butter needs to be gluten development. This should take dough, which is refrigerated after mixing, pliable so it will form sheets between the three to four minutes, depending on starts with a higher temperature, as this dough layers – if it’s too hard, it will crack. dough size and mixer speed. allows the dough to ferment as it cools, Select butter with high plasticity – : Block out dough into a rectangle and creating flavor and strength. If properly some butters tend to crumble when put into a covered plastic container. fermented, this dough can be chilled preparing the butter block. Many bakers Refrigerate at 38-40°F for 12-14 hours. to a low temperature to allow for easier prefer a higher-fat butter for lamination, Détrempe and handling and sheeting, without sacrificing somewhere in the 82-84% range. Butter Preparation the flavor. And the strength gained The easiest way to incorporate this dough Take dough out of the refrigerator, through fermentation will help the dough : into production is to mix it about 12-14 remove dough from container, and form strong, thin layers for a flaky finished hours before it will be laminated. The degas on bench. Run dough through a product with a honeycomb interior. butter blocks can be made ahead of time reversible sheeter to about 8mm. This and can be used as needed. The dough will completely degas and even out CROISSANT DOUGH (Straight Dough) also needs to relax under refrigeration the détrempe. The dough block will be Total Formula between turns and final shaping. This will around 18”x14”. Cover with plastic and Ingredients % kilograms help to insure that cut shapes will not place in freezer for 30 minutes. Bread Flour (11.5 - 12% protein) 100.00% 2.250 kg shrink during processing. A colder dough : To make the butter block, cut butter into Water 30.59% 0.687 kg will also help with handling. These are ½” slices and lay them on heavy-duty Milk 24.59% 0.550 kg general guidelines and can be modified to plastic or silpat. Place another piece on Salt 2.00% 0.045 kg fit your bakery’s schedule and employee top and pound out with a rolling pin Instant Yeast 1.25% 0.028 kg skill level. until malleable. Run butter through the sheeter until about 8mm thick. Clean up Sugar 12.00% 0.270 kg Croissant Dough Mixing Method the edges so you have a rectangle that is Non Diastatic Malt Powder 0.50% 0.011 kg Place all ingredients in a bowl of a spiral : approximately 16”x12”. The length should Butter 4.00% 0.090 kg or planetary mixer with hook attachment. closely match the width of the détrempe. Total 174.93% 3.931 kg Adjust water temperature so final dough : Place between two sheets of parchment temperature is between 82-84°F. Mix in Roll-in Butter 27.00% 1.061 kg and refrigerate.

To make the ‘butter block’ pound until malleable and Place butter in the middle of the detrempe and fold Begin sheeting the dough. The initial thickness then run through the sheeter until about 8mm thick. dough to meet in the middle with a slight overlap. will be 12-16mm with a final thickness of 3-4mm.

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For pain au chocolat cut 7” x 3¼” rectangles and Fold edge over to cover the chocolate and place Finished pain au chocolat. place one chocolate baton along the folded edge. two more chocolate batons at folded edge. Roll up with edge underneath.

Lock-in and Lamination Shaping, Proofing, and Baking when a slight indentation is left when : Laminate using three single-folds. If Traditional Croissant pressed and the layers just begin to show the dough is very cold, you can do the : Sheet dough to 19” wide and turn 90 separation. first two single-folds back to back and degrees. Continue sheeting dough Pain au Chocolat then rest it in the freezer for 20 minutes. down to 3-4mm. The final thickness of Sheet dough to 20” wide, and turn 90 Complete the final turn and freeze for at the dough can change with different : degrees. Sheet down to 3-4mm. Final least one hour before the final sheeting. machines. Roll up dough and transfer to dough width should be 21”. Cut unto : Sheet out the détrempe to 24” long by bench. Relax it by lifting the edges down three 7” strips, then cut 3¼” wide. Place 16” wide. Work the butter with a rolling the length of the dough. Cut the dough one chocolate baton at base of each pin until it is the same consistency as the down the middle so that you have two piece. Fold edge over to cover the choc- détrempe but still cold. Place the butter strips 9½ inches wide. At this point you olate. Then place two chocolate batons in the middle of the détrempe with the can stack the two pieces or cut each together at folded edge. Roll the dough short edge facing you. There will be a one individually. Using a chef knife, cut up, making sure the edge is underneath slight bit of dough showing under the each triangle about 4” wide. Each piece the finished piece. Egg wash and proof edge of the butter. Fold the dough to should weigh between 85-95g. Continue the same as the traditional croissant. meet in the middle and slightly overlap until you have cut the whole strip. one side over the other. Press the dough : Lengthen each triangle by lightly pulling baking into the butter, using a rolling pin. from the base to the point. Set it on the : All ovens are different, so you need : Start sheeting down the dough table – pull corners out and fold over. to find the right temperature for your to increase the width. This will be Roll dough up, making sure not to use particular oven. These temperatures were somewhere between 16 to 12mm, too much pressure. Try not to pull the tested using rack ovens. Temperatures depending on dough size. Turn the point of the dough under the finished can range between 380 and 430°F. dough 90 degrees, and square off sides croissant. This can tighten the piece and Convection ovens can be between 380 with a rolling pin. Continue sheeting cause the top to fall over while proofing and 400°F. A small amount of steam dough down to 7-7½mm. Complete and baking. Place up to 15 pieces per may be used; an appropriate amount is single turn and repeat for second turn. sheet pan, and egg wash. 3-5 seconds; however, excellent results Cover and freeze for 20 minutes, then : Place in proofer at around 80°F with a may be achieved without steam. Bake for complete last turn. relative humidity of around 85°F. After about 14-18 minutes, depending on piece : Place back in freezer for at least 45 minutes, egg wash again. Proof for sizes and desired color. ✹ one hour. If dough freezes, place in 1½ - 2 hours. The croissants are ready refrigerator to thaw before final sheeting.

For croissant cut the dough into Lengthen each triangle slightly and roll up Prior to placing in the proofer, egg wash Bake at the appropriate temperature and two 9½” wide strips and cut out without applying too much pressure. Place the croissant, then again after 45 min. time for your oven. A small amount of triangles 4” wide at the base. the point under the finished piece. Proof for 1½ and 2 hours. steam may be used if available.

bread lines – september 2010 { 23 } PRESORT STD US POSTAGE PAID

PORTLAND, OR PERMIT No. 141

670 West Napa St Suite B Sonoma, CA 95476

The Bread Bakers Guild of America Register for IBIE and four days Newsletter Co-editors Tod Bramble of baking education! Laverne Mau Dicker Newsletter Designer Kirsten Finstad September 26 – 29 Contributors Tod Bramble Las Vegas, Nevada Suzanne Cote Laverne Mau Dicker Louis Lesaffre Cup Watch Bread baking Demonstrations Observe Michael Eggebrecht Abram Faber Bakers Guild Team USA compete on Guild instructors presenting demos Markus Farbinger Sunday for a spot at the 2012 Coupe du during all four days of the tradeshow in Samuel Fromartz Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. bakeshops hosted by General Mills and Jeremey Gadouas Zach Hertz the Lesaffre Yeast Corporation. Alois Hollenstein Lecture Series – 8:30 -11:30am* Dan Leader Monday – Didier Rosada and Jeff guild booth – #4052 Visit the Guild Thomas Leonard Yankellow, “Commercial Yeast-Based booth - network with other members, Richard Miscovich Craig Ponsford Preferments” listen to a wheat presentation, and have Dara Reimers Tuesday – Jeff Yankellow and Craig a Guild author autograph his or her book. Biagio Settepani Christy Timon Ponsford, “Sourdough (or Levain) Based Guildhall Gathering September 27, Solveig Tofte Preferments” Katie van Staden 6:00-8:00pm, Tempo Lounge, Las Del Wong Wednesday – Ciril Hitz, “Breakfast Vegas Hilton. No RSVP necessary. Buy Brian Wood Breads & Pastries: an Artisan Approach” Jeff Yankellow your own drink and join us! Renee Zonka *For registration to IBIE and the morning Chairman of the Board Craig Ponsford lecture series visit www.ibie2010.com. Vice Chairman Abram Faber Treasurer Neale Creamer Board of Directors Tod Bramble Ann F. Burgunder Frank Carollo Melina Kelson-Podolsky The material printed in Bread Lines may not be reproduced or copied without Richard Miscovich written permission from The Bread Bakers Guild of America. Solveig Tofte Tel 707.935.1468 • Fax 707.935.1672 • Email [email protected] • Web www.bbga.org Jeffrey Yankellow