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Following Team USA to the Coupe

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Following Team USA to the Coupe Volume 24 – Issue 1 spring 2016 IN THIS ISSUE From Practice to Paris : 2 Notes from the Chair Following Team USA to the Coupe 5 Guild News Selling in the Off-Season Cousins Across the Water by James MacGuire Artisan Certification Program Guild Member, Baking Instructor and Food Writer, Montréal, QC James Beard Semifinalists Formula Formatters Update James MacGuire, a well-respected baker and food writer – he translated Hello/Goodbye Professor Raymond Calvel’s book, Le Goût du Pain, into English – was invited 11 What’s Old is New to serve as an advisor to Bread Bakers Guild Team USA at their practices. He narrates the Kickin’ It Old School story of the 2016 Coupe from an insider’s perspective and traces the team’s journey from Seattle to Chartres to Paris. 14 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2016 I realized within my first 10 minutes as a guest at a Team USA practice 28 Baking Reflections in Seattle in early December that I would never have been a suitable candidate for the team. Redefining the Daily Loaf The intensity was palpable, and the pace, relentless. Continued on page 14 Baking for the Monks’ Table 33 Technical Article Defining Brioche Milk and Pear Starters 38 Baking History Dough Boys: US Army Baking in the World War I Era 42 Baking Reflections Gluten The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bak- ers Guild of America, is published four times per year. DU MONDE DE LA BOULANGERIE COUPE PHOTO: Bread Bakers Guild Team USA and coach hold a photo of themselves at the 2016 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. Left to right: Nicky Giusto, Jacob Baggenstos, Harry Peemoeller, and Jeffrey de Leon. NOTES FROM THE CHAIR Over the years, my collection of Guild: education. It doesn’t take much books has followed a path parallel to to imagine he was referring to baking my career. Starting with cookbooks and instead of cooking, when he wrote: moving to baking books, it now includes “As far as cuisine is concerned one must OF JEFF YANKELLOW COURTESY HOTO: all of those and more. I am much more P read everything, see everything, hear selective than I used to be and have gotten everything, try everything, observe rid of quite a few, passing them on so everything in order to retain, in the end, others can get some joy from them. There just a little bit!” is no replacement for hands-on learning, but books are a way to learn and see more “The duty of a good cuisinier is to transmit also teaching, but it takes some effort. At than what is right in front of me. If, for to the generations who will replace the very least, offering a shelf of books and some reason, I was forced to get rid of him everything he has learned and encouraging bakers to use it could make a all but one, the one I would keep would experienced.” difference. probably surprise a lot of people. It’s not a I often tell students that the only It would be hard, if not impossible, to find flashy choice. Artistically, it doesn’t stand difference between them and me is that I a baker who could truthfully represent a chance next to modern-day books that have more experience. By “experience,” himself or herself as “self-taught.” Even are truly works of art. I simply mean that I have made more with a total lack of face-to-face interaction The book I speak of is Ma Gastronomie, mistakes than they have. I’ve allowed with a teacher, the knowledge has to come the book that describes the life and work of myself to take chances, submersing myself from somewhere. This is why I am always the legendary French chef, Fernand Point. in challenging situations to better myself. perplexed when I see bakers who are It is certainly not a baking book. Calling In general, baking is a low-risk craft, so unwilling to share their knowledge. there is so much more to gain than to lose it a cookbook would be undermining its We must be good stewards of the industry in failure. Great bakers build themselves true value. The recipes are not what has if we want to see it continue on a through a combination of education, drawn me to its pages regularly over the positive path. Part of that is sharing our lessons learned, and hands-on experience. years, but rather the stories of how Point knowledge. This is certainly the duty of a Most importantly, I was the recipient of ran his business, as well as a list of notes baker and the mission of The Guild. in which he shares his words of wisdom. knowledge from so many generous people The reader gets a clear sense that Point who were willing to pass to me what they Perhaps the greatest return on your was a professional in the highest sense, an had received from others. efforts is that the next great baker you are looking to hire may already be absolute perfectionist when it came to the When I first transitioned from cooking to working for you. Grande Cuisine, but he also had a playful baking, a baker who is now a great friend nature. He treated others, including told me that he could teach me production employees and customers, the way he if I came to work for him, but that I should would want to be treated himself and go to The National Baking Center to didn’t take anything too seriously. really learn about baking. I took his It is a real challenge for me to focus advice, and it changed my life, but I would JEFF YANKELLOW on one of his statements as the most argue that there are real opportunities Board Chair important, but there are two that speak to for teaching in a production environment. what is at the heart of the mission of The There is hands-on instruction, and there is { 2 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA GUILD NEWS THANKS TO OUR DONORS The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its 2016–2018 fundraising partners for their generosity. Platinum Partner ($120,000) Erika Record Baking Equipment Guild Friends (Up to $389) General Mills, Inc. Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Tim Andrews Niedlov's Breadworks Anonymous (4) TMB Baking Equipment George Blanford Gold Partner ($60,000) Townie Bagels Lynne Bowden King Arthur Flour Co. Carol Brownson Couche Club ($990–$1,979) Jim Budros Anonymous (1) Ed Clebsch Silver Partner ($36,000) Bennison’s Bakery Connie Cox Central Milling Company David Bergman Marsha De Angelis Lesaffre Yeast Corporation Sandy & Christian Bernards Dewey Doughberman Frank Carollo Thomas Endejan Jason & Linda Gollan Lee Glass Bronze Partner ($18,000) Wendy & Dave Krishock Good Wood Pizza Ovens & Baking Ardent Mills Orlando Baking Company Grain Conditioning, Inc. Giusto’s Vita-Grain Richard Sperry James W. Hatfield III Sun Street Breads Janet’s Quality Baked Goods, Inc. Jones & Perry, Inc. Copper Partner ($12,000) Baker’s Bunch ($390–$989) John Jordre Grain Craft Mary K. Andrews Melina Kelson-Podolsky Anonymous (1) Media Affiliates Jeff Klopatek Jennifer Baker Bake Paul Krebs Bob Blaske Pastry & Baking North America John & Laura Kvasnosky Breadfarm Zach Langenkamp Ann F. Burgunder Artisan Circle ($3,600) Larry Lobe Crossroads Bakeshop Allied Bakery Equipment Company, Inc. Roger Martella Euro Pane Bakery Bay State Milling Company Joan McConville Abram Faber & Christy Timon Breadsmith Benjamin Miller Gail Goetsch Chabaso Bakery Richard Miscovich Grateful Bread (California) Clear Flour Bread Drew Moncol Harvey & Nora Hanoian Companion Baking Moxie Bread Co. Patricia Kennedy George & Phyllis Enloe Murray Hollow Bakers Neil A. Levy Macrina Bakery & Cafe Barbara Oberlin Robert McCamant Tom Cat Bakery, Inc. Christian Oertel National Honey Board Zingerman’s Bakehouse Barbara Oletzke Serenity Farm Bread Beverly Ousley ( ) Mitch Stamm Hearth Society $1,980 Lewis Perlmutter Amy’s Bread Tree-Top Bakery Peter Reinhart Bit of Swiss Pastry Shoppe Catherine Trujillo Sara Scudier Crema Cafe & Artisan Bakery Victorian Bakery, LLC Elizabeth Yahr Southard Dawn Food Products, Inc. Jim Zimmerman Cathy Wayne Ken Wilcox bread lines – spring 201 6 { 3 } Cutting-Edge Breads june with Whole Grain Flour 13 CRAIG PONSFORD Product Development: Culinary Institute of America – 14 San Antonio, TX February The Art of Collaboration TIM HEALEA 28 DILLON DEBAUCHE Sixth Annual 29 CHRIS FRAZIER june Guild-Wide The Art Institute of Portland – Bakery Open House Portland, OR 25 the bread bakers guild of america No-Knead Pizza: Stecca Elevated and Laminated: is proud to announce its 2016 regional and Ciabatta Variations Advanced Viennoiserie march event theme, “Bread Uprising.” The july for Professional Bakers JIM LAHEY bread industry is on the rise with new 5 9 JEREMEY GADOUAS General Mills – ideas. Bakers are following exciting new 6 Minneapolis, MN directions – working with freshly milled 10 Midori Bakery – Redmond, WA flours, installing mills in bakeries, and Breads of the World troubleshooting the challenges of baking Baguettes Six Ways with flour made from locally grown and march DIDIER ROSADA september JEFFREY HAMELMAN milled wheat. Our 2016 classes reflect 12 Long Beach City College – these changes and challenges. 16 King Arthur Flour – 13 Long Beach, CA 17 Norwich, VT Preferments: The Science and Art april Techniques, Process, Three Lectures at IBIE april of Artisan Bread and Products october Adding Artisan Breads to Your Bakery MELINA 15 KAREN BORNARTH 2 KELSON-PODOLSKY 9 MICHAEL EGGEBRECHT 16 Johnson & Wales University – 3 Johnson & Wales University – Charlotte, NC 10 Wheat Breeding and Providence, RI 11 Practical Uses for the Baker Designing Signature STEPHEN
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