Volume 24 – Issue 1 spring 2016 In this Issue From Practice to Paris : 2 Notes from the Chair Following Team USA to the Coupe 5 Guild News Selling in the Off-Season Cousins Across the Water by James MacGuire Artisan Certification Program Guild Member, Baking Instructor and Food Writer, Montréal, QC James Beard Semifinalists Formula Formatters Update James MacGuire, a well-respected baker and food writer – he translated Hello/Goodbye Professor Raymond Calvel’s book, Le Goût du Pain, into English – was invited 11 What’s Old is New to serve as an advisor to Bread Bakers Guild Team USA at their practices. He narrates the Kickin’ It Old School story of the 2016 Coupe from an insider’s perspective and traces the team’s journey from Seattle to Chartres to Paris. 14 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2016 I realized within my first 10 minutes as a guest at a Team USA practice 28 Baking Reflections in Seattle in early December that I would never have been a suitable candidate for the team. Redefining the Daily Loaf The intensity was palpable, and the pace, relentless. Continued on page 14 Baking for the Monks’ Table

33 Technical Article Defining Brioche Milk and Pear Starters

38 Baking History Dough Boys: US Army Baking in the World War I Era

42 Baking Reflections Gluten

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bak- ers Guild of America, is published four times per year. du monde de la boulangerie coupe photo: Bread Bakers Guild Team USA and coach hold a photo of themselves at the 2016 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. Left to right: Nicky Giusto, Jacob Baggenstos, Harry Peemoeller, and Jeffrey de Leon. notes from the chair

Over the years, my collection of Guild: education. It doesn’t take much books has followed a path parallel to to imagine he was referring to baking my career. Starting with cookbooks and instead of cooking, when he wrote: moving to baking books, it now includes “As far as cuisine is concerned one must all of those and more. I am much more of jeff yankellow courtesy P hoto: read everything, see everything, hear selective than I used to be and have gotten everything, try everything, observe rid of quite a few, passing them on so everything in order to retain, in the end, others can get some joy from them. There just a little bit!” is no replacement for hands-on learning, but books are a way to learn and see more “The duty of a good cuisinier is to transmit also teaching, but it takes some effort. At than what is right in front of me. If, for to the generations who will replace the very least, offering a shelf of books and some reason, I was forced to get rid of him everything he has learned and encouraging bakers to use it could make a all but one, the one I would keep would experienced.” difference. probably surprise a lot of people. It’s not a I often tell students that the only It would be hard, if not impossible, to find flashy choice. Artistically, it doesn’t stand difference between them and me is that I a baker who could truthfully represent a chance next to modern-day books that have more experience. By “experience,” himself or herself as “self-taught.” Even are truly works of art. I simply mean that I have made more with a total lack of face-to-face interaction The book I speak of is Ma Gastronomie, mistakes than they have. I’ve allowed with a teacher, the knowledge has to come the book that describes the life and work of myself to take chances, submersing myself from somewhere. This is why I am always the legendary French chef, Fernand Point. in challenging situations to better myself. perplexed when I see bakers who are It is certainly not a baking book. Calling In general, baking is a low-risk craft, so unwilling to share their knowledge. there is so much more to gain than to lose it a cookbook would be undermining its We must be good stewards of the industry in failure. Great bakers build themselves true value. The recipes are not what has if we want to see it continue on a through a combination of education, drawn me to its pages regularly over the positive path. Part of that is sharing our lessons learned, and hands-on experience. years, but rather the stories of how Point knowledge. This is certainly the duty of a Most importantly, I was the recipient of ran his business, as well as a list of notes baker and the mission of The Guild. in which he shares his words of wisdom. knowledge from so many generous people The reader gets a clear sense that Point who were willing to pass to me what they Perhaps the greatest return on your was a professional in the highest sense, an had received from others. efforts is that the next great baker you are looking to hire may already be absolute perfectionist when it came to the When I first transitioned from cooking to working for you. Grande Cuisine, but he also had a playful baking, a baker who is now a great friend nature. He treated others, including told me that he could teach me production employees and customers, the way he if I came to work for him, but that I should would want to be treated himself and go to The National Baking Center to didn’t take anything too seriously. really learn about baking. I took his

It is a real challenge for me to focus advice, and it changed my life, but I would jeff yankellow on one of his statements as the most argue that there are real opportunities Board Chair important, but there are two that speak to for teaching in a production environment. what is at the heart of the mission of The There is hands-on instruction, and there is

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GUILD news Thanks to our Donors

The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its 2016–2018 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000) Erika Record Baking Equipment Guild Friends (Up to $389) General Mills, Inc. Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Tim Andrews Niedlov's Breadworks Anonymous (4) TMB Baking Equipment George Blanford Gold Partner ($60,000) Townie Bagels Lynne Bowden King Arthur Flour Co. Carol Brownson Couche Club ($990–$1,979) Jim Budros Anonymous (1) Ed Clebsch Silver Partner ($36,000) Bennison’s Bakery Connie Cox Central Milling Company David Bergman Marsha De Angelis Lesaffre Yeast Corporation Sandy & Christian Bernards Dewey Doughberman Frank Carollo Thomas Endejan Jason & Linda Gollan Lee Glass Bronze Partner ($18,000) Wendy & Dave Krishock Good Wood Pizza Ovens & Baking Ardent Mills Orlando Baking Company Grain Conditioning, Inc. Giusto’s Vita-Grain Richard Sperry James W. Hatfield III Sun Street Breads Janet’s Quality Baked Goods, Inc. Jones & Perry, Inc. Copper Partner ($12,000) Baker’s Bunch ($390–$989) John Jordre Grain Craft Mary K. Andrews Melina Kelson-Podolsky Anonymous (1) Media Affiliates Jeff Klopatek Jennifer Baker Bake Paul Krebs Bob Blaske Pastry & Baking North America John & Laura Kvasnosky Breadfarm Zach Langenkamp Ann F. Burgunder Artisan Circle ($3,600) Larry Lobe Crossroads Bakeshop Allied Bakery Equipment Company, Inc. Roger Martella Euro Pane Bakery Bay State Milling Company Joan McConville Abram Faber & Christy Timon Breadsmith Benjamin Miller Gail Goetsch Chabaso Bakery Richard Miscovich Grateful Bread (California) Clear Flour Bread Drew Moncol Harvey & Nora Hanoian Companion Baking Moxie Bread Co. Patricia Kennedy George & Phyllis Enloe Murray Hollow Bakers Neil A. Levy Macrina Bakery & Cafe Barbara Oberlin Robert McCamant Tom Cat Bakery, Inc. Christian Oertel National Honey Board Zingerman’s Bakehouse Barbara Oletzke Serenity Farm Bread Beverly Ousley ( ) Mitch Stamm Hearth Society $1,980 Lewis Perlmutter Amy’s Bread Tree-Top Bakery Peter Reinhart Bit of Swiss Pastry Shoppe Catherine Trujillo Sara Scudier Crema Cafe & Artisan Bakery Victorian Bakery, LLC Elizabeth Yahr Southard Dawn Food Products, Inc. Jim Zimmerman Cathy Wayne Ken Wilcox

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 3 } Cutting-Edge Breads june with Whole Grain Flour 13 craig ponsford Product Development: Culinary Institute of America – 14 San Antonio, TX February The Art of Collaboration Tim Healea 28 dillon debauche Sixth Annual 29 chris frazier june Guild-Wide The Art Institute of Portland – Bakery Open House Portland, OR 25 the bread bakers guild of america No-Knead Pizza: Stecca Elevated and Laminated: is proud to announce its 2016 regional and Ciabatta Variations Advanced Viennoiserie march event theme, “Bread Uprising.” The july for Professional Bakers jim lahey bread industry is on the rise with new 5 9 Jeremey Gadouas General Mills – ideas. Bakers are following exciting new 6 Minneapolis, MN directions – working with freshly milled 10 Midori Bakery – Redmond, WA flours, installing mills in bakeries, and Breads of the World troubleshooting the challenges of baking Baguettes Six Ways with flour made from locally grown and march didier rosada september jeffrey hamelman milled wheat. Our 2016 classes reflect 12 Long Beach City College – these changes and challenges. 16 King Arthur Flour – 13 Long Beach, CA 17 Norwich, VT Preferments: The Science and Art april Techniques, Process, Three Lectures at IBIE april of Artisan Bread and Products october Adding Artisan Breads to Your Bakery melina 15 karen bornarth 2 kelson-podolsky 9 michael eggebrecht 16 Johnson & Wales University – 3 Johnson & Wales University – Charlotte, NC 10 Wheat Breeding and Providence, RI 11 Practical Uses for the Baker Designing Signature stephen jones julie dawson Baking with Locally may Flavors with Sprouted tom hunton Sourced Grains and Local Grains april The American Grain mike Zakowski 16 zachary golper Movement: Where We 3 Are in 2016 Central Milling – 17 Le Cordon Bleu College of 4 Petaluma, CA Culinary Arts – Atlanta, GA richard Miscovich

Rye on the Rise Beyond Traditional Webinar – Laminated Doughs Artisan Baker april jeffrey hamelman may october Certification Program sandra holl Grateful Bread Company – 14 21 25 solveig tofte Denver, CO Kendall College – Chicago, IL 15 22 jory downer

Contact The Guild for more information | 707.935.1468 | [email protected] | www.bbga.org

{ 4 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news selling in the off-season

In our Yahoo eGroup, the following mark dyck 3 Talk to B&B’s, as they might like bread for their customers. I know a couple of question was posed last summer: What Formerly of Orange Boot Bakery – Regina, SK places in town do a Wine Friday Night for do you do during the “off-season” when I’d work on getting the email address their customers to kick off the weekend. the farmers markets are not open? We of everyone who buys from you at the So they would also do cheese and bread, thought that the responses would be of market, so you can get a CSB (Community along with the wine. interest to the membership at large. Supported Baking) subscription program going for the winter. derek degeer

brian hernon Before we opened our place, I’d email Hootenanny Bread – Damariscotta, ME Slow Rise Bakery – Lancaster, PA everyone three days before baking day In Maine there are a couple good farmers I, too, am subject to the vicissitudes of the so they could pre-order whatever I was markets which go indoors on Saturdays farmers markets. I wouldn’t overestimate making. Worked very well. during the winter. There are also CSA the number of loaves that a grocer will (Community Supported Agriculture) pro- andy wysocki need from you. The real question is: What grams that will often sell a bread subscrip- is the minimum number of loaves that Townie Bagels – Palm Springs, CA tion as an optional up-charge. You could will pay you to make the trip? It might Some options I looked into that you might start a bread and soup subscription your- be worth your while if you split those 40 consider. self if you feel you have the customer base. loaves among three markets. 1 Wine store on weekends. Let them put Restaurants and retailers slow down in Look at family-owned grocers. They may your bread next to the cash register or the winter, but they do still provide some look like conglomerates from the outside, wine so people can pick up a loaf for their income. Bread is often a “loss leader” for but perhaps they are members of a entertaining. [grocery stores], so as a small producer, buying co-op. you can be competitive by being flexible Consider delivery or drop off point. I’m 2 about what you can produce and what Don’t just send a letter. Make a visit and chatty with the local businesses in town. I you’re willing to take back as shrink. leave samples, then call back. And call. found a spice store that was willing to use Planning a few days a month to go into And call. Make them say no. them as a drop off point. So customers the store, give out samples of your breads, would order, I would deliver to her and she Don’t just make bread. Find another and engage the customers goes a long would give people their prepaid orders. product that fits the style of bread you’re way to increasing your sales and building She got the benefit of getting people into making, and it’ll help pay the freight – a your mailing list as well. ✹ her store, and I only had to deliver to one cookie or granola bar or granola. location, so there was no charge to me.

COUSINS ACROSS THE WATER “My friend, Rick Coldman, is a rare animal in the UK: a sourdough baker baking out of a large Alan Scott masonry oven, working the markets down the coast from Machynlleth to the Mumbles in the south of Wales. A tough way to make a living.

“When my copy of Bread Lines (23.4) dropped through the letter box recently, I was struck by the similarity between Rick and the farmer in the Central Milling advert. So when he called in the other day, I put the magazine in his hands and my hat on his head and took the photo for your entertainment.”

~ Mick Hartley Guild member and Owner, Bethesda Bakers, Wales, UK hoto: mick hartley mick P hoto: bread lines – spring 201 6 { 5 } GUILD news

New Artisan Baker Certification Program ave you interviewed potential employees with a The practical exam will occur over the course of two days: fantastic resume, only to have their skills fall short the first day consists of one hour to mix preferments, and H when they hit the bench? Are you a baker who would the second day offers 7 hours to complete the baking, plus like to challenge yourself and perhaps have an advantage one additional hour for cleaning. We will be issuing formulas when seeking employment? There has long been an for four doughs, and the candidate will be responsible for expressed desire for The Guild to develop a certification a “baker’s choice” bread. We have selected items to help us program to establish a way to measure basic techniques assess the skills we believe any baker needs to be an asset that a good artisan baker should possess. to a bakery, including an understanding of fermentation control, shaping and scoring techniques, and time The goal of The Bread Bakers Guild of America’s management. The candidates will produce: Certification Program is to establish and measure the core skills of an artisan baker. There will be three tests: two at the : Poolish baguette and hard rolls beginner’s level and one at the advanced level. The first level : Multigrain boules and pan loaves consists of the Certified Bread Baker and Certified Pastry : Challah braided in two ways and formed into two shapes of Baker. The final level will be the Certified Artisan Baker soft rolls test, which will demonstrate mastery of products typically : Pain au levain found in an artisan bakery, formulation, and production : Baker’s choice (a grain-based or fruit and/or nut dough management. designed by the candidate)

For the past year, our committee of five – comprised of Jory Our committee met in late February at Kendall College in Downer, Solveig Tofte, Mitch Stamm, Jeffrey Hamelman, Chicago to take the exam to verify its effectiveness and to and Melina Kelson-Podolsky – have deliberated over what determine acceptable standards for the finished products. this program looks like. After much work and many hours We worked to create an assessment that honors the baker’s of discussion, we are prepared to begin testing for the effort, and our ultimate goal as an educational organization Certified Bread Baker. To become a Certified Bread Baker, is to make sure each candidate completes this level with an the candidate must be a Guild member and have at least understanding of his or her strengths as well as areas for one year of experience in a bakery. The first part of the exam further growth. is a 100-question test covering information on milling, flour Applications for the certification program will be available functions and standards, preferments and fermentation, soon. For an overview of the new certification program, mixing and baking, plus some basic sanitation practices. please join Jory and Solveig at a webinar, “Artisan Baker And of course, no Guild-sanctioned test would be complete Certification Program,” on October 25. without a few questions about baker’s percentage. When the candidate has earned a passing grade on the written Please watch the eNewsletter for more information exam, he or she will be approved to take the practical about the program and the webinar. We look forward to portion of the exam, which will be held at testing sites welcoming many Certified Bread Bakers into the fold.✹ around the country.

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2016 Semifinalists Thank You JAMES BEARD AWARD FOR AND OUTSTANDING BAKER Welcome

The James Beard Award for Outstanding Baker is still Jerod Pfeffer of 460 Bread relatively new: this is only its second year. in Driggs, ID, has stepped The award is given to “a chef or baker who prepares breads, pastries or desserts down as Associate Formula in a retail bakery, and who serves as a national standard-bearer of excellence. Must have been a baker or pastry chef for at least five years.” Editor. We are very grateful to him for his generous con- We’re proud to see The Guild so well-represented on the 2016 list of semifinalists. Guild members are shown in color: tribution to The Guild. He has significantly improved Robert Alexander The General Muir, Atlanta the formatting standards Evan Andres Columbia City Bakery, Seattle Kim Boyce Bakeshop, Portland, OR and processes, as well as Joanne Chang Flour Bakery + Café, Boston managed our team of for- Andre Chin and Amanda Eap Artisan Boulanger Patissier, Philadelphia matters – all while running a Rick Easton Bread and Salt, Pittsburgh bakery. Jerod will continue Mark Furstenberg Bread Furst, Washington, D.C. to volunteer as a consultant Michelle Gayer Salty Tart, Minneapolis to formatting team. Zachary Golper Bien Cuit, Brooklyn, NY John Kraus Patisserie 46, Minneapolis We are delighted to Phoebe Lawless Scratch Bakery, Durham, NC welcome two new Associate B. Patisserie, San Francisco Belinda Leong and Michel Suas Formula Editors: Meeghen Cheryl Maffei and Jonathan Stevens Hungry Ghost Bread, Northampton, MA Eaton, a serious home baker Laura Martelli and Matthew Rosenzweig The Flaky Tart, Atlantic Highlands, NJ and food blogger in Agassiz, Dave and Megan Miller Baker Miller Bakery & Millhouse, Chicago Moshit Mizrachi-Gabbitas Janjou Pâtisserie, Boise, ID BC, and Zach Langenkamp, Sarah O’Brien The Little Tart, Atlanta Director of Product Lionel Vatinet La Farm Bakery, Cary, NC Development at Blue Baker Melissa Weller Sadelle’s, NYC in College Station, TX. Both Craftsman and Wolves, San Francisco William Werner Meeghen and Zach have been members of our formatting team since 2013. They will work with Allen Cohn, Chief Formula Editor, supervising our dedicated team of volunteer formatters.

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 7 } GUILD news

The Guild Welcomes New Board Members We are pleased to welcome four new members to the Board of Directors: Connie Cox, Sandy Kim-Bernards, Richard Sperry, and Catherine Trujillo. HELLO GOODBYE

Connie Cox Sandy Kim-Bernards Back Door Baker Serious Home Baker, Camden, AR Director of Baking Chabaso Bakery, New Haven, CT : Elected to a three-year term beginning January 1, 2016. : Elected to a three- : Guild member since 2004. year term beginning : M.A. in English, journalism, and speech. Taught English and January 1, 2016. journalism in the Camden, Arkansas, public schools for four years. : Guild member : Other information: Connie is also a Certified Financial Planner since 2006. Bakery and real estate agent. She is president of Camden Connections employee. Foundation, a non-profit that is working with the City of Camden : B.A. in economics. on a $2 million walking trail project. She has volunteered at Guild Completed a four- events, including IBIE 2010, IBIE 2013 and WheatStalk 2014. month intensive baking and pastry “I am extremely excited about being appointed to the Guild Board. program at the San Even though I do not have a culinary background, I have a passion Francisco Baking for baking. The Guild has offered me opportunities to nurture this Institute. passion. Members have generously shared their time and knowledge : Other information: Sandy volunteered as The Guild’s through The Guild’s educational events, newsletter, and eGroup. I Associate Formula Editor for four years and still have met, consulted, and become serves on the formatting team. She was formerly friends with some of the country’s a Chef Instructor at the Art Institute of California best bakers. I have visited and in Santa Ana, CA. In 2013 she was the Grand Prize toured bakeries from coast to winner in the commercial category in America’s Best coast. None of this would have Raisin Bread Contest. been possible, had it not been for The Guild and the kindness and “The Guild has always been a guiding light throughout openness of its membership. Now my baking journey. Therefore, is such an honor to I have an opportunity to give back be able to serve The Guild and its members and to to the organization that has given continue to help foster the community that embraced so much to me.” me and my passion for bread.” hristian bernards C hristian (sandy) photography, stamps (connie) photos:

Richard Sperry Professor of Anesthesiology University of Utah, and Executive Director Rocky Mountain Center for Health Care Policy, Salt Lake City, UT : Elected to complete Neale Creamer’s term, which ends on December 31, 2016. : Guild member since 2005. Serious home baker. : M.D, Ph.D. in higher education administration, M.A. in economics, B.A. in economics and chemistry. : Other information: Richard has served on numerous boards, including the Board of Trustees for the Utah Hospitals and Health Systems Association. He is the author of two textbooks and teaches university classes on anesthesiology, economics, political science, and public health. He participated in Camp Bread 2007 and WheatStalk 2014.

“I have been in awe of bakers and the baking process for many years. My love of good bread motivated me to try to produce bread in my own home – it’s just flour, water, yeast, and salt, so how hard could it be I reasoned. Turned out it was easy to produce a mess but far less easy to produce something beautiful and delicious. Luckily, I came across The Guild several years ago and began to get training and mentoring. I can now produce consistently good, and sometimes really good bread – all thanks to The Guild and its members. Without the help and encouragement of Guild members, I would have quit long ago. My appreciation and admiration for The Guild has grown exponentially. I am honored and excited to serve my fellow bakers and to give back something to The Guild that I love.” photo: melissa sperry melissa photo:

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And Says Goodbye to Others We thank Tod Bramble and Solveig Tofte HELLO GOODBYE for their service to The Guild.

Tod Bramble: Bread Lines Legacy By jeff yankellow Board Chair henever a Board member leaves the Board after multiple terms, the moment Wis bittersweet. We all serve on the Board for different reasons. It is, first and foremost, a labor of love and a commitment to everything The Guild stands for: artisan baking education. Eventually, the time comes to move on, and in Tod Bramble’s case, he is moving on in the best way possible. He is leaving The Guild a better place than he Catherine Trujillo found it. Vice President of More specifically, Tod’s legacy will live on Business Development in the impact he had on Bread Lines. Once a Rubicon Bakers, Richmond, CA newsletter, now a magazine, Bread Lines fell under Tod’s umbrella as soon as he joined the : Term: Elected to a one-year advisory term beginning Board. He had no journalism experience that I January 1, 2016. am aware of, but he jumped in and learned on the job without hesitation. : Guild member since 2012. Bakery employee. Managing Bread Lines is an all-consuming : B.A. in art history. Certificate role. You have to juggle multiple balls in the of Pastry Arts from the Tod Bramble Culinary Institute of America- Key Account Manager, Ardent Mills Continued on next page Greystone. : Other information: When Catherine was with Whole Foods Market, she was Solveig Tofte: Creating responsible for the Global Bakery strategic plans, Educational Opportunities programs, marketing By melina kelson-podolsky strategies, and financial Guild Board Member and Assistant Professor, objectives. She is the Kendall College, Chicago, IL Managing Editor for Bread Lines, and she serves on the he world can be divided into talkers and advisory committee for La Tdoers. Through this lens, it is quite obvious Cocina, a non-profit providing that Solveig Tofte falls into the latter category. business support for low- In the six years she has been on the Bread income food entrepreneurs. Bakers Guild of America Board of Directors, Solveig has assumed many roles. In each, she “I am extremely honored and has rolled up her sleeves and participated in earnestly grateful to serve the necessary heavy lifting of committee work, on The Bread Bakers Guild of and we are all grateful for those contributions. America Board. I look forward More important, her clear vision, coupled with Solveig Tofte taught classes at WheatStalk. to collaborating with our baking inspiring organizational skills, allows Solveig to community and members create efficiencies in the way work gets done. advocating the commitment and dedication of our mission.” Continued on next page photos: (tod) king arthur flour, (solveig) abe faber (solveig) flour, king arthur (tod) photos: photo: courtesy of catherine trujillo of catherine courtesy photo:

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 9 } GUILD news

HELLO/GOODBYE Continued from previous page

Tod Bramble: Bread Lines Legacy Solveig Tofte: Creating Continued from previous page Educational Opportunities air, and it hasn’t gotten any easier over the years. While one issue Continued from previous page is wrapping up, the next one is coming together. You must always In her time with us, Solveig has jumped into every be looking ahead to how we will fill future issues with new and role, from Board Chair to schlepper-with-a-smile; relevant content. she has never shied away from doing the work. Tod led an effort to take Bread Lines to the next level. This was a She has so many admirable qualities, but chief real challenge. Twenty years ago, writing about preferments was among them is the ability to “make things happen.” new and exciting. Finding new and exciting topics today is not Providing scholarships to bench workers was a so easy. He also looked beyond what had become comfortable, concept important to the entire Board. She created searching out bakers doing experimental, cutting-edge things, an avenue to make this idea a reality. Solveig has and sharing their techniques with our membership. served as the head of the Scholarship Committee, wading through excellent essays from candidates Tod always reminded me that even when there is a great to determine who will earn an opportunity to idea, finding someone to write about it is where the real work learn. She established criteria to make the process starts. Somehow he managed to make it happen. He wasn’t equitable and consistent. And thanks to that afraid to tackle tough topics, often allowing both sides of some leadership, The Guild has provided 14 scholarships controversial issues to speak their mind. to date, worth a total of $5,250 in tuition, to help We will miss Tod not only for his efforts on Bread Lines but also bench workers continue to grow their skills. for his happy spirit and friendly nature. He was easygoing but Consider how many bakeries that has helped! spoke his mind. During his two terms on the Board, he worked Solveig has served as a committee member and tirelessly and made a difference. We wish him the best of luck as judge for Bread Bakers Guild Team USA. Mindful he moves on and thank him for leaving us in a good place. ✹ that these bakers have dedicated time and heart working toward their dream, she approaches judging with compassion and treats the process as Surviving the Mosbolletjie Issue an opportunity for each of these people’s personal growth. She works to make the rigors of trying out od Bramble and I became co-editors of Bread Lines for the team an educational opportunity. unexpectedly in 2010, after a sudden staff change. Although T Solveig helped streamline the responsibilities for I had written and edited articles for what was then called “the newsletter,” I had never been in charge of planning the entire WheatStalk, tremendously lightening my load as operation, and neither had Tod. It was, we discovered, a steep WheatStalk Director load and helping create a learning curve. reproducible event. In the 2014 incarnation, Solveig took the role of Educational Director, helping to After countless headaches, we managed to produce our slim craft relevant and meaningful curricula for our first issue, which featured articles about international baking membership. But that’s what she does. Solveig and included a labor-intensive South African formula. We joked constantly pitches ideas that bring education of our afterwards that we should have T-shirts printed: “I Survived the craft to the most people as affordably as ever. Mosbolletjie Issue!” It was on-the-job training … or baptism by fire. There are so many contributions Solveig has made – I have truly enjoyed working with Tod these past five and a half only a fraction of them are outlined above. She years. I’m going to miss his clear thinking and his easygoing, manages to provide ideas, insight, and “do the unwaveringly cheerful work style – character traits that made our work,” all while managing a successful bakery and planning calls a pleasure. He was instrumental in shepherding being an engaged parent and a constant friend. Bread Lines to the next level and supervising its transition from Her contributions to The Guild have made our newsletter to magazine. Whenever you make mosbolletjies or organization stronger and more efficient. Let’s all admire the way Bread Lines has evolved, think of Tod. ✹ raise an IPA to this unsung heroine! ✹ – laverne mau dicker Guild Staff, Sonoma, CA

{ 10 } the bread bakers guild of america Kickin’ It Old School: NOVEMBER 14–15 Bringing Back Classic Kickin’ It Old School: Bringing Viennoiserie Back Classic Viennoiserie

lamination, compound butters, SAIT Polytechnic,Hosted Calgary,by AB and fillin gs By HANNA NOEL Cindy Findlay – Liaison Guild Member and Baker, Ponsford’s Place, San Rafael, CA

InstructorTracey Muzzolini “K ickin’ It Old School: Bringing class from start to finish, energizing us to Back Classic Viennoiserie” exceeded meet our goal of making eight doughs my expectations. Having just shy of two and more fillings. With so many croissant, butter to be the right temperature and years baking experience and even less puff pastry, and fougassette to be mixed, consistency. This still is the most difficult laminating experience, I was thrilled laminated, and shaped, we started off at part of laminating for me. I tense up from the moment I was awarded the full speed, with no time to lose. when I see shattered butter through the bench scholarship: to learn more about dough, knowing that all I can do is carry What most intrigued me in anticipation viennoiserie and from a world-class on and learn what to do differently next of Tracey’s class was baking with white baker! Tracey’s enthusiasm fueled the time. One of the greatest tricks I learned flour. I feel as if I should be whispering this from Tracey’s class was how to plasticize confession, because I know how unusual it the butter block before lock-in. When the sounds, but it was really only my second butter gets too cold, the most effective time working with white flour. My baking way to warm the butter up that last little experience so far has been at Ponsford’s bit is to plasticize the butter along the Place in San Rafael, where we use nothing edge of the table. There’s no need to but whole milled, whole grain flours. be gentle with the block, either. Flip the Tracey’s lamination was beautiful, and it butter over and rotate it 45 degrees each was amazing to see how the viennoiserie time as you go. It becomes much easier exploded in size with proofing and again to recognize the “magic point” when the during the bake. This is something I’d butter bends but doesn’t break. never seen firsthand. Another trick we learned was how to When I first started laminating, my biggest reduce inconsistencies in the dough - challenge was getting the dough and

photo: cat mcinroy cat photo: namely, spots that end up butter-less. photos: martin barnett martin photos: TOP: Finished Pancetta and Ricotta Tartlet BOTTOM LEFT: Pancetta and Ricotta Tartlets before baking. The pancetta layer over the filling bakes to a crisp with the pastry. BOTTOM RIGHT: The class and instructor with some of the products they made.

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 11 } what’s old is new

During the lock-in, fit the butter to cover of viennoiserie. I’m salivating, just half the dough. Then, instead of just clos- remembering the flaky, flavorful, herbed ing the dough like the cover of a book, cut olive fougassette. the dough in half alongside the butter and The fillings we made were equally as make a sandwich instead. Usually my in- inspiring, from the veggie rolls with a consistencies originate from the “binding” Caribbean-influenced curried split pea of my dough book, and this technique filling to the Cannoncini Citrus Explosion. eases my problem from the start. And if you were a peanut butter and jelly There are so many changes that a baker sandwich kid, you would have loved the can make while laminating dough – how Jam Master Jam. Picture a bear claw with you make the butter blocks, how you plas- a maple almond butter and apricot jam ticize the butter, number of and types of filling, and raspberry jam piped in at the folds, etc. – that even the slightest variation knuckles. A simple PB&J will never again can make the process either significantly measure up. easier or more challenging. It becomes a Thinking about all the sweet and savory game of trial and error. Every dough I’ve fillings and compound butters that made since Tracey’s class has been slightly Tracey shared with us is making me different than the one before, in terms of hungry. And now that the hectic holiday ingredients, hydration, and methods. season has passed, it’s the perfect time Tracey also made a compound butter for me to focus seriously on improving with two of the doughs. The Fougassette my technique and making new products aux Olives had an herbes de Provence inspired by the class. I’m looking forward butter, while the Chocolate Puff Pastry to laminating in the year ahead! ✹ mcinroy cat P hotos: had a cocoa compound butter. What a great, simple way to ensure flavors are incorporated into every last bite of the dough, especially if you are using the same dough base for several blocks olle hoto: M argaret T P hoto: hoto: martin barnett martin P hoto: olle hoto: M argaret T P hoto:

Clockwise from top: Mushroom and Ricotta Tartlet with arugula garnish. An assortment of viennoiserie made in class. The class discusses how hard a bake was desired. Tracey Muzzolini egg washes croissant dough before making

hoto: martin barnett martin P hoto: up pain au chocolat. Chocolate Cherry Chausson.

{ 12 } the bread bakers guild of america what’s old is new

La Fougassette aux Olives

Contributed by tracey muzzolini

This bread was inspired by Christian Vabret. Of all the amazing breads he demonstrated at Camp Bread 2007, this one remained in my memory for many years. This version uses Manzanilla olives and an herbes de Provence compound butter.

olives la fougassette aux olives La Fougassette aux Olives : Dry olives on sheet pan overnight. Process – Total Dough Weight 7.010 kg Mixing Type of mixer Planetary with roll-in butter Total Détrempe Weight 4.800 kg dough hook : Soften butter and fully incorporate Total Formula Mix style Short st herbes de Provence. Form into rectangle Ingredients % kilograms 1 speed 0:06–0:08 2nd speed 0:02 between 2 sheets of plastic. Refrigerate AP Unbleached Flour* 100.00 3.038 Dough temp 75°F–77°F until firm before plasticizing. Water 50.80 1.543 lamination Salt 1.80 0.055 Fermentation Length of time 1:30 : After first book fold and 30-minute rest, Instant Yeast 0.40 0.012 Temperature Room unfold dough and apply olives to half of Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 5.00 0.152 Détretempe Prep Preshape 24" x 12" dough. Fold dough in half and proceed Totals 158.00 4.800 Rest 0:30 with second book fold. Roll-In Butter 20.83† 1.000 Temperature 0°F Herbes de Provence 0.21† 0.010 Roll-In Prep Soften Plasticize using Manzanilla Olives 25.00† 1.200 any method Extra-Virgin Olive Oil As Needed Preshape 12" x 12" Coarse Salt As Needed Lamination Lock-in Standard *11.5%–12.8% protein †Based on total dough weight Folds 2 book with 0:30 st rest after 1 Final rest 1:00 Temperature 40°F

Makeup Preshape 16" wide Sheet 10 mm Shape 4" x 4", then dock using pizza wheel Proofing device Sheet pans in proofer Garnish Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with coarse sea salt at start of proof

Proof & Bake Final proof time 1:00 Temperature 75°F–85°F Humidity 60%–70% Oven type Deck Total bake 0:22–0:24 Temperature 453°F Steam 3 sec

TOP: The dough is portioned, and three slices are photos: cat mcinroy cat photos: made in each portion. The pastry is pulled apart TOP: Tracey folds the olive layer in the last three- slightly to ensure the spaces remain. Olive oil is fold. The olives are left whole. BOTTOM: The olive brushed on instead of egg wash. BOTTOM: Cross- dough is rolled out. section of finished fougassette.

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 13 } 14 coupe du monde de la boulangerie

photo: laverne dicker The day beganat 6:20a.m.onagray, drizzlymorning That wasn’t theendofday. Product evaluation, a On aregular basisateam memberreminded his Charlotte, andGuittard Chocolate Studio inCalifornia. Getting serious inthecompetition kitchen. Continued from cover Following USA to Team theCoupe PracticeFrom to Paris : get together andbake. Gettingto know style eachother’s general review, andasnacktook anothertwo hours.Then colleagues how muchtimeremained. Toward theend General MillsinMinneapolis, Johnson&Wales University in and methodofworking inthebakery was key duringthis at every practice Isaw. are never winners. went into competition mode. For thenext few hours, with coffee at Starbucks, and at precisely 7:00a.m., session that takes place thenightbefore thecompetition. under thewatchful eye ofcoach andformer team for alongweekend eachmonthat Puratos inSeattle, they would bedoingat theCoupe duMondedela the pace quickened, for althoughnotmany pointsare team: “The first practices were like workshops. We would minute by minute, gesture by gesture. There were no member, HarryPeemoeller, they rehearsed everything period. We developed abondearlyon,which, Ithink,paid Nicky Giusto, Jeffde Leon, andJacob Baggenstos Boulangerie, withinexactly thesametimeframe, Nicky Giusto explained how thingscametogether for the For sometimetheteam hadalready beenpracticing Dinner was at 9:00p.m., andthisschedulewas maintained it was timeto beginpractice ofthetwo-hour preparation breaks, nounnecessary talk,nowasted movements. knew that there isanunwritten rulethat late finishers lost for goingslightlybeyond theallotted time, they point to HarryPeemoeller. Who’s thecoach? Nicky Giusto, Jacob Baggenstos, andJeffde Leon The flight to Paris anddrive to thepractice facility was a Chartres isintheBeauce, aregion known asthe off greatly down thelinewhen we were faced with tough visible like abeacon from milesaway. Ithadbeenamere speak freely withoutworrying abouthurtfeelings.” situations. We broke down barriersandthisallowed usto surcharge.). Despite fears, everything madeit,including 50-mile drive from Paris, butalthoughourbedsinthehotel I’d never seensuchking-sized luggage, eachbagfullof tools andequipment(Nicky endeduppaying ahefty tour deforce interms oflogistics andovercoming fatigue. production andsoflat that its13 ingredients sentby Federal Express weeks before. beckoned usfor anap, we pressed onto thepractice space. breadbasket ofFrance becauseofitshighwheat th century cathedral was

photo: europain france coupe du monde de la boulangerie 15 Jacob Baggenstos Baggenstos Jacob works (foreground) on the octopus. lackluster. Later in the week we found a decent crêperie, crêperie, a decent found we in the week Later lackluster. butter used for the viennoiserie was that of the reputable of the reputable that the viennoiserie was used for butter know, as if by instinct, that another teammate didn’t have didn’t have another teammate that instinct, as if by know, Ponsford, and Craig manager, benign hand as property it, too, is a place we won’t forget. By the last day’s practice, practice, day’s the last By forget. won’t we is a place it, too, Harry had the same impression earlier that afternoon as afternoon earlier that Harry had the same impression Bakery Nouveau in Seattle lent a huge and reassuringly lent a huge and reassuringly in Seattle Nouveau Bakery region’s strength in producing an easy-to-use product, but product, an easy-to-use in producing strength region’s more detached eye. detached eye. more tools and for racks find speed to of where problem so were said, snobbery be damned. We That restaurants. to be seemed that restaurant Turkish find a to relieved the Nicky, milling operation. stoneground acquired recently of combination by the miller among us, seemed transfixed the quandry of deciding the best ways to work with French with French work to ways the quandry of deciding the best all We dinner. night before did that but we the Cathedral, to provide an additional point of view and observe with a and observe an additional point of view provide to I was beginning to fear that there would be no time to visit be no time to would there that fear beginning to I was I now saw movements between the team members so the team between movements saw I now former team member, coach, and Coupe judge, was there there was judge, and Coupe coach, member, team former we drove through the pristine countryside to visit Viron’s visit Viron’s to countryside the pristine through drove we welcome of the proprietors, decent kebabs, and a cold beer, beer, and a cold kebabs, decent of the proprietors, welcome flours for all the products was never solved to the team’s team’s to the solved was never all the products for flours agreed with Jacob, who found it “a great moment of pause.” of pause.” moment great it “a who found with Jacob, agreed and our farewell meal took place in one of the city’s better better in one of the city’s place meal took and our farewell equipment was solved by Viron, who lent their own. The The who lent their own. Viron, by solved equipment was satisfaction. complete and cheeses with the team’s of charcuterie comprised but adequate were the hotel and dinners at bread, own the warm between open, that still in Chartres only place inside. methods he saw old and new coordinated that it seemed like ballet. Each one seemed to ballet. Each one seemed to it seemed like that coordinated from Paschall Baylor hand. the task at enough hands for Charentes-Poitou producer, Montaigu, and it confirmed that that Montaigu, and it confirmed producer, Charentes-Poitou The difference from what I witnessed in Seattle was that was that in Seattle I witnessed what from difference The and the logistical improvements, on with many went Things Just as in Seattle, there was little off-time. Lunches were were Lunches little off-time. was there as in Seattle, Just

but when things began at precisely 7:00 a.m., the team 7:00 a.m., the team precisely but when things began at before the usual hour and lending the team storage and storage the usual hour and lending the team before imperious British woman’s voice on the GPS made sure we we on the GPS made sure voice imperious British woman’s Hotel, located in a beautiful spot with views of the city’s of the city’s in a beautiful spot with views located Hotel, new surroundings. surroundings. new practices began, there was a sense of déjà vu. Breakfast at at a sense of déjà vu. Breakfast was began, there practices Patrice Tireau, the mill’s quiet, affable, and extremely extremely and quiet, affable, the mill’s Tireau, Patrice ramparts along the Eure, for providing a full breakfast a full breakfast providing for along the Eure, ramparts needed. Most incredible to Harry was that to make more more make to that Harry was to incredible needed. Most Minoteries Viron, well known for its Rétrodor flour and flour its Rétrodor for known well Viron, Minoteries river, and the lush vegetation create an idyllic impression. create lush vegetation and the river, tried every possible route – “Make the next U-turn and…”), U-turn and…”), the next – “Make route possible tried every the hotel replaced Starbucks (kudos to the Ibis Cathédral the Ibis Cathédral to (kudos Starbucks replaced the hotel though it had never been there. though it had never mill is in an older building with large windows, through through windows, mill is in an older building with large the team was left to its own devices, yet someone would someone would yet devices, its own left to was the team up two steep steps, so quickly and easily that it was as it was so quickly and easily that steps, steep up two there has been a flour mill since Gallo-Roman times. The times. Gallo-Roman has been a flour mill since there the award-winning baguettes its customers bake using bake its customers baguettes the award-winning upon boxes of ingredients and equipment.” and equipment.” of ingredients upon boxes from floor to floor are clearly visible. There’s a constant constant a There’s are clearly visible. to floor floor from work space their last day), and the drive to the mill (the to and the drive day), their last space work work space, a huge mixer was moved out of the space and out of the space moved was mixer a huge space, work seemed to be back in Seattle, completely oblivious to the oblivious to completely be back in Seattle, seemed to whirr of equipment, and trucks filled with bulk and bagged whirr of equipment, and trucks filled which the cylinders, sifters, and pipes sending flour streams streams and pipes sending flour sifters, which the cylinders, flour leave the loading dock at seemingly all hours of the the loading dock flour leave always appear, as if out of the blue, when something was when something was as if out of the blue, appear, always a proprietary recipe, is on a site on the Eure River where where River Eure on the is on a site recipe, a proprietary our own specifications and gave us free rein of the place.” rein of the place.” us free and gave specifications our own effective young technical director, was our main contact. was our main technical director, young effective daytime was put on the graveyard shift.) In other words, shift.) In other words, put on the graveyard was daytime day, but walkers, runners, and bicyclists, the slow-moving the slow-moving runners, and bicyclists, but walkers, day, We were in completely different circumstances, but when circumstances, different in completely were We (In fact, the baker who usually occupies that space in the space that who usually occupies the baker (In fact, As Jacob remembers, “We invaded their space with boxes boxes with their space invaded “We remembers, As Jacob Jeff added, “They allowed us to rearrange the kitchen to the kitchen rearrange to us allowed Jeff added, “They photo: europain france europain photo: 16 coupe du monde de la boulangerie photos: europain france There was nopractice And arunningstart itwas. Jeff recalls trying to choosea (this ishow we learned Chartres. Instead, the dining room andabitofkitchen space. Ingredients and everything would becloseat hand,ready for arunning equipment were sorted andpacked insuchaway that on thelast fullday in competition site andthenearby hotel. over theweek, andhad employees hadbecome flour amongthose available: “Having received theactual start. Duringthelongday, whichwent well into thenight, specs onlyafew days before made itdifficult tochoose, was practicing at a while theteam drove to jointheothercompetitors at the with noroom intheminivans, Itook thetrain to Paris, with. Aswe were gathering ingredients onourfirst day there was anincreasing senseofurgency, andany offer of they lent⅓ofthelarge trade schoolonlyafew that theChineseteam the Coupe inthelocal team’s participation in paper two days inarow read articlesaboutthe more andmore friendly members were on minds oftheteam help would have onlybeenadistraction. The next morning, beyond anyone’s hopes, kilometers away). Way because nothingavailable was like what Ihadpracticed logistics. The hotel Jacob Baggenstos assembles hisartistic piece whileNicky Giusto stabilizes thesurfboard. “Sufficient sleepon myside, butI wasn’ttheonewhohad dough bemixed inaway Ididn’tanticipate.” overload,” andbecausetheteam was competing the could make or break my contribution to thecompetition. I very next day, there was theaddedpressure ofthetwo- slept that night,andwithonlyahintofsmile, hereplied, was avery intense time, knowing that theflour choice to compete.” turned outto becorrect, butitsattributes required that the run, we found that many ofthebagshadbeenmislabeled. Harry calledtheinformation sessions “information Nicky helpedmeanalyze thespecsheetsandchoose. It hour nightbefore preparation session. Iasked himifhe’d had onlyafew minutes to make thedecision.The choice “I hadn’tsleptmuchthe Jeff’s Jeff’s experience was more flowing hair. constructs thesurfer girl’s Right German Chocolate Brioche. of doughinto trianglesfor his LEFT: Jeffde Leon cutsasheet different. Iendeduptaking clanging bellsthat some Go! Go!” a littlenapduringthedrive week before, andthe what onewould expect: fans hadbrought. Itwas a from agreat distance the I arrived thenext day, the competition, hearing toward thevery endof to Paris. After that, itwas night before wasn’t much hugely enthusiastic crowd, : Jacob Baggenstos coupe du monde de la boulangerie 17 - South Korea, - South Korea, st – France), I was a bit shy about asking a bit shy I was – France), rd – Taiwan, 3 – Taiwan, nd they had a sense of how they had done themselves as they as they had done themselves they had a sense of how they they were very forthcoming. very were they from the competing teams.” teams.” the competing from watched the others. Harry found it difficult to gauge: “It it difficult the others. Harry found watched placed was because so much weight predict, to hard was Since the team competed on the first day, I wondered if wondered I day, on the first competed the team Since on flavor, and we were not able to taste all the products all the products to taste not able were we and on flavor, Coach Peemoeller gives Jeff de Leon some direction. Jeff de gives Peemoeller Coach 2 After the Coupe results were announced (1 announced were results the Coupe After Team USA members for their thoughts. I needn't have been; their thoughts. I needn't have members for USA Team heart throughout and gained respect in many ways that that ways in many and gained respect heart throughout brotherhood of bakers started to kick in after the confusing the confusing kick in after to started of bakers brotherhood becoming friends? Harry recalls that the camaraderie and the camaraderie that Harry recalls friends? becoming building between fellow artisans. After all, the stakes all, the stakes artisans. After fellow building between Nicky mentioned the Turks and the Canadians, and he mentioned the Turks Nicky hustle or look at the judges’ reactions. All the theories the judges’ reactions. at or look hustle bread. Some of the most beautiful and elaborate shapes beautiful and elaborate the most Some of bread. me in on the goings-on: me in I wondered about the competitive spirit impeded bond about the competitive I wondered formed a strong bond with the Japanese team,” he said. team,” bond with the Japanese a strong formed seem to be getting higher with every edition of the be getting higher with every seem to would imagine. The wonderfully astute Mitch Stamm filled Stamm Mitch astute wonderfully The imagine. would with the Asian contingent showing far less reserve than one than reserve less far showing contingent the Asian with first evening. evening. first trying to discern the mood of the teammates as they as they the teammates mood of the discern trying to pass by with his motorcade. with his motorcade. by pass then everyone else shows up. People you haven’t seen in seen haven’t you People up. else shows then everyone team stomps the other teams. You arrive, you set up, and set up, you arrive, You teams. the other stomps team at times, but once we started talking, met great bakers, bakers, talking, met great started we times, but once at were women. Great showing for a first effort, especially the especially effort, a first for showing Great women. were front; the catcher on the reverse side, the intricacies of the the intricacies of side, on the reverse the catcher front; weapons. That was compared with having to wait 40 wait to with having compared was That weapons. Russia was a great surprise: all three of their team members members their team of surprise: all three a great was Russia Mike Zakowski, Peter Yuen, William Leaman – not sure who sure – not Leaman William Yuen, Peter Zakowski, Mike was interesting. Harry seemed calm and confident. So Harry seemed calm and confident. interesting. was minutes at an intersection downtown for Raoul Castro to to Raoul Castro for downtown an intersection at minutes observed that some relationships took more time. “Later, I “Later, time. more took some relationships that observed excited to be there.” be there.” to excited an oven-loader’s length from him. No dogs. No visible length from an oven-loader’s many former team members were in the stands: Robert in the stands: members were team former many viennoiserie.” and hypothesizing in the stands are fun and interesting. I fun and interesting. are in the stands and hypothesizing didn’t involve winning a trophy.” didn’t involve debut. While they didn’t finish on time, they showed great great showed they didn’t finish on time, they debut. While I missed. There were also at least three candidates from from candidates three least also at were There I missed. structure, the detail, finesse, and style. In terms of teams, of terms In style. and the detail, finesse, structure, showpiece, the warrior baseball batter mid-swing in the mid-swing baseball batter the warrior showpiece, spent a long time studying the intricacies of the Taiwanese the Taiwanese the intricacies of spent a long time studying stanchions to view and taste the products with the judges. the products and taste view to stanchions scouting the competition for the future. for the competition scouting Surprisingly, security was quite subdued. We were within were subdued. We quite security was Surprisingly, could possibly be dry white bread. Everyone is watching, is watching, Everyone bread. dry white be possibly could competition by looking at the products, especially the the products, looking at by competition Coupe. Would that keep the teams from mingling and from teams the keep that Would Coupe. day, French President Hollande was escorted behind the behind escorted Hollande was President French day, years, possibly since the last Coupe. Watching the teams teams the Watching Coupe. the last since possibly years, You hope for a great competitive event, and you hope your hope your and you event, competitive a great hope for You Jeff added, “The team from Turkey was making their Coupe was making their Turkey team from Jeff added, “The Jacob agreed: “The language barrier made it difficult “The agreed: Jacob Team USA tryouts in the audience supporting the team and supporting the team in the audience tryouts USA Team Jörin, Solveig Tofte, Craig Ponsford, Jeffrey Hamelman, Jeffrey Ponsford, Craig Tofte, Jörin, Solveig “It’s so difficult to tell what’s going on during the tell what’s to so difficult “It’s “During the product presentations and judging on the final and presentations “During the product “Observing the Coupe is like going to a Super Bowl party. party. Bowl a Super to going is like the Coupe “Observing 18 coupe du monde de la boulangerie photos: europain france unless otherwise noted “I didn’thave my best runonthecompetition day, butItry “Overall, itwas awonderful experience,” Jeff explained,

a closelyknitgroup that hewas answering for allthree of year was “A SportofYour Country,” andhechosesurfing.Note thesurfer girl’s and hesaid,“The training makes you conscious ofevery with you.” with where we endedup. and herbungeecord to thesurfboard. and equipmentare thesame, even inaninternational competition. products. I asked how theexperience would affect himthefuture, them: “There willbepain,butit’s allworth it.” through isto make you abetter baker, soofcourse, itsticks members. Itwas Jacob whoanswered, butthey are such not to have any regrets ….The team asawholedidgreat Finally, Iasked what theiradvice would beto future team job, andIonlyhopethat everyone involved feels content Poached Pear Hazelnut Star andGermanChocolate Brioche. little thingyou dowhenyou work. Everything you go hair, theoctopus, andthetiny beachumbrellas. 1 4 2

Nicky Giusto's breads includedThe Migration andPurplePiñon. 3

Jacob Baggenstos’ artistic showpiece. The themefor thepiece this 5

Jeff deLeon's viennoiserieincluded

5

4

✹ Jacob anchorsthesurfer

6

Bakers’ tools 2

Team USA 1 3 6

photo: laverne dicker coupe du monde de la boulangerie 19

s amom an card s Shape 250 g pieces into into Shape 250 g pieces with one end pointy bâtards than and tighter slightly longer the other. boule seam up on the Place couche. long end of bâtard Wrap boule seam up and around a gentle “S” shape made make with the main body of the bâtard. Soak dried apricots in Soak dried apricots room at 12 hours for water temperature. Chop coarsely. into g pieces Shape 350 boules. : : : : : : d apricot soake organic g Unsulphured 475 apricots dried California 220 g Water shaping Mix all the ingredients except lemon except Mix all the ingredients are simmer until apricots and zest soft (about 15 minutes). in and briefly purée zest lemon Add should purée (The processor. food some chunks.) have still Add salt and cardamom to water water to salt and cardamom Add a boil. and bring to and simmer 3–5 Khorasan in Stir minutes. for temperature room at down Cool 12 hours. apricots Khorasan NOTE: Cooked porridge can be Cooked NOTE: a couple for in the refrigerator stored of days. purée apricot dried organic 300 g Unsulphured juice pear 300 g Organic cider apple 300 g Organic and scrapped bean, halved 1 Vanilla of 1 lemon Zest : : khora e porridg cracked stone 100% Organic 200% Water 2% Salt cardamom 3.5% Desiccated : : : 6.150 1.820 1.560 0.000 0.260 1.170 0.047 0.005 0.470 0.470 0.470 0.130 kilograms final dough 0.00 2.57 0.29 7.14 85.71 14.29 64.29 25.83 25.83 25.83 86.14 1.568 100.00 30.00% 100.00%

0.780 0.780 0.780 0.008 1.568 337.91 % kilograms ain lev contributed by nicky giusto 1.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 the migration the Whole Khorasan Flour Khorasan Whole in Levain Fermented Total Flour Total My wife’s family inspired this inspired family My wife’s from migrated they bread: in pursuit France to Tunisia flavors The life. of a better distinctly are in this bread 100% whole North African: cardamom levain; Khorasan porridge; apricot Khorasan chopped apricots. purée; boule and combined The shape bâtard pointed the transition represents another. to one culture from kg a

2.600 1.560 0.780 0.260 6.150 201.00 0.005 6.150 % kilograms ormul al F

ot

T % 1.80 0.047 0.20 5.00 0.130 0.008 0.03 1.950 75.00 60.00 30.00 10.00 18.08 0.470 18.08 0.470 18.08 0.470 100.00 236.54 Levain Deck 1 slash on bâtard; 3 sec 1:00 1:00 75°F 13:00 73°F Spiral 1:30 75°F 1 0:45 250 g & 350 g pair Round 0:20 notes See process Couche Hand 0:08 0:08 speed 0:03 speed st nd Scoring Steam 0:28 bake Total 450°F Temperature 0:14–0:15 Damper open Last type Oven Final proof time Final proof Short Mix style 1 Number of folds folds Timing for time Resting Shape device Proofing of mixer Type of time Length Until incorporated of time Until Length of time Length mixer of Type 2 75°F Dough temp

Ingredients Flour Total Bread Flour* Bread Flour Whole Khorasan Whole Spelt Flour Water Salt Yeast Fresh Khorasan Cardamom Porridge† Cardamom Khorasan Purée† Apricot chopped† soaked, Apricots, Butter Unsalted Starter‡ Levain Totals Dough Weight Total

THE MIGRATION boule, 4 slashes on miche style Temperature Proof & Bake Proof Temperature Temperature Shaping Divide Preshape Fermentation Final Dough Mixing Fermentation The Migration – The ss Proce Preferment Mixing

(11.5% protein) wheat winter hard *Malted Notes †See Process 5% seed 65% water, flour, ‡100% Khorasan 20 coupe du monde de la boulangerie 1 “Bake.” Bread was theirlife. O At somepointduringtheweek itstopped beinga When theresults were announced onthelast day and giustoby arielle of humanbeings.Itwas nolongerabusfullofstrangers; competition between countries andbecameabonding competition was about. your control, andyou hopeto riseabove them.Inthe asked themwhat they didintheirfree time. They said, afterglow oftheday, there are many thingsthat can was almost too muchto watch. AndwhenIcaughtthat Instead, letusrest oureyes onthebrightest sparkleft, time withthevery cool Japaneseteam. These guys had the shared experience ofthework ittook to getthere the truenature ofcompetition. Andman,canitbeharsh. tender momentbetween NickandYoji, theJapanese now that it’s allover –therelationships. neither ofourteams madeitto thepodium,pain Like runningarace, there are endless variables beyond been practicing for three years. Through atranslator, we broke down languagesandbarriers.We spentalotof be replayed over andover. Butwhowants to dothat? bread baker, I realized that rightthere was what this an international baking family baking international an dumondethe coupe a year ofone’s life to asingleendeavor andin f course, there was disappointment. Committing the course ofoneday have itallbedecidedis chef and wife of nicky giusto, ofnicky wife chefand member usa team on eachofthethree days anddrew lotsfor kitchens. called for more cowbell. 1

French supporters decidedthat thesituation 2

Four teams competed Jeffrey went in to the James Griffin, Aussie Brett Noy, andmany others–as Americans, you canbe Watching thebakers grow itmore andmore. dedication andhumility only hopeto continue to of thefamily andcan of theseguys was competing that day. The competition onthe5am very, very proud ofyour striking, andapleasure support for theteams since thebeginning–Craig Ponsford, theIrishman wonderful example for who have beeninvolved undeniably awonderful family to beapartof. they reunited, caughtupandlaughedtogether, itis the rest oftheteams – to watch. They seta Nicky, Jacob, and in thecompetition boys! Now they are part bus every day to show 2 the competition. Japan) becameclosefriendsduring Nicky (Team USA) andYoji (Team ✹

photos: europain france photo: arielle giusto

coupe du monde de la boulangerie 21

photo: europain france europain photo: hoto: diana benner diana hoto: P dicker laverne hoto: P The Dutch were were Dutch The

6 . Team Canada had its fan Canada had its fan Team

5 . Vancouver Island University student, student, University Island Vancouver

6 4 4 her face base, too. In chef hats, left to right: Alan left to In chef hats, too. base, Dumonceaux, Marcus Mariathas, and Mariathas, Marcus Dumonceaux, there in force. Hup, hup, Nederlands! hup, Hup, in force. there Cassandra Boggs, wore her flag on Boggs, wore Cassandra James Holehouse

.

Team USA, USA, Team

Samples of 2

3

fan. France Team Young

1 2 breads and pastries were distributed to to distributed were pastries and breads row be in the front to best was It bystanders. . and supporters coaches,

5

3 1

hoto: elizabeth jang elizabeth hoto: P photo: europain france europain photo: photo: europain france europain photo: 22 coupe du monde de la boulangerie : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : fermentation chocolate briocherichflavor. Cocoa noirandatomized chocolate give this which haslayers ofcoconut andpecancaramel. This bread isariffonGermanchocolate cake, bake a Stencil shortbread sidewithpowdered sugar. with cream to maintain moisture. brush trianglesideslightly After moldsare removed, before removing brioche. Allow moldsto cool slightly brioche. shape andmoisture of with metalnutsto retain shape into moldandweight silicon bakinglinercutto Place apiece ofmetaland into center ofmold. center ofinsert.Liftandplace Using aparingknife, stab Remove moldsfrom freezer. large: 11layers). and filling (small: 5layers; alternating layers ofbrioche Build finalinsertusing 6 pieces perinsert(large). 3 pieces perinsert(small); brioche-lined mold. Trim trianglesto fitinto Cut triangleswithmoldfrom frozen doughsheetfor inserts. sides are frozen. Place inthefreezer to set.Finalinsertiseasiest to place when on finishedpiece. Dough willslideupasshortbread iscut,creating aflush edge shortbread base. Once chilled(nearfrozen), uselinedmoldsto cut Place linedmoldsinthefreezer to set. and unroll inmold,slidingdoughinto corners. When doughhaswarmed just enoughto beflexible, roll strip this willbedifficult. Use chilledstrips to line insidesofmolds.Ifdoughistoo warm Cut 1.5"(small) and3"(large) strips from frozen doughsheets. with panspray. trianglemolds andlarge (4.5"x4") Lightly grease small(3"x2") Hold infreezer for use. Remove doughfrom cooler andsheetto 2mm. Spread doughover aplastic-wrapped sheetpanandcover. ssembly german chocolategerman brioche contributed byjeffreydeleon contributed *Hard winter wheat (12%protein) german chocolate brioche Powdered Sugar Filling Shortbread Base Totals Cocoa Noir Honey Sugar Atomized Chocolate Unsalted Butter, softened Osmotolerant Instant Yeast Salt Egg Whole Milk Bread Flour* Ingredients Total Dough Weight T ot al F ormul a 245.33 2.525 100.00 12.25 0.126 42.00 38.25 0.394 29.00 6.30 0.065 6.10 0.063 7.63 0.079 2.00 0.021 1.80 0.019 % kilograms 0.432

As Needed As Needed Needed As 2.525 1.029 0.298 kg

Temperature Temperature after 80%development addremaining sugar butter in 3 stages Proof &Bake Preshape Shaping Divide First Fermentation Mixing Process – German Chocolate Brioche Fan speed Temperature 1 Total bake Proofing device Hold back Oven type Shape Mix style 1 Dough temp 2 Final proof time Resting time Length oftime Type ofmixer st nd st 0:04–0:06, adding speed 0:04–0:06, speed 0:04–0:06 0:04–0:06, slowly speed 0:04–0:06, High 350°F 0:15–0:18 Triangle mold Butter, ½sugar Convection Triangle Improved 86°F 80°F 0:45–1:00 Until almost frozen 40°F 12:00 Spiral See process notes 1.5" (sm); 3" (lg) strips

photo: europain france

coupe du monde de la boulangerie 23

photo: sandra thielman sandra photo: photos: europain france europain photos: for display. for of German Chocolate Brioche of German Chocolate Jeff de Leon arranges triangles Leon arranges Jeff de 0.557 1.986 kg Ireland, and Brett Noy of Uncle Bob’s Bakery in Bakery of Uncle Bob’s Noy and Brett Ireland, texture, size, weight, and creativity. Guild creativity. and weight, size, texture, members Jimmy Griffin of Griffin’s Bakery in Griffin of Griffin’s members Jimmy scoring products, including appearance, taste, taste, including appearance, products, scoring Australia served on the jury. served Australia The jury considered numerous factors when factors numerous jury considered The

% kilograms 0.53 0.003 82.50 0.460 25.13 0.140 23.50 0.131 62.00 0.345 41.30 0.230 21.54 0.120 100.00 356.50 1.986 a ormul al F ot T

Yield Ingredients toasted Coconut, Cream Sugar Yolk Egg Butter Unsalted Salt Pecan Pieces Extract Vanilla Totals an chocolate filling german chocolate Bake at 325°F for 12–14 325°F for at set. Bake to minutes with and then cut layers Freeze triangle mold. brioche- fit into triangles to Trim lined mold. Reduce heat to simmer and whisk to heat Reduce 10 minutes. for continuously and add vanilla, heat from Remove and pecans. coconut, two over Spread slightly. cool to Allow half-sheet pans.

: : : : : : kg 0.486 1.387

0.426 % kilograms 1.23 0.006 0.82 0.004 87.65 62.25 0.302 33.53 0.163 100.00 285.48 1.387 a ormul al F ot T

Dough Weight Total

Ingredients Sugar Baking Soda Totals AP Unbleached Flour Butter Unsalted Powder* Cocoa Salt hocolate shortbread Chocolate prevent burning. prevent salt to a boil. Whisk occasionally to to occasionally a boil. Whisk salt to Bring cream, sugar, butter, yolk, and yolk, butter, sugar, Bring cream, Incorporate dry ingredients. Incorporate 4 mm and chill. Sheet to Cream butter and sugar. butter Cream *Cocoa Noire from Guittard® from Noire *Cocoa

s note : German Chocolate Filling German Chocolate : : : Chocolate Shortbread Chocolate s note 24 coupe du monde de la boulangerie archery and coach celebrate theirvictory which featured the national sportofmounted from Team SouthKorea. horse intheSouthKorean artistic showpiece, 7 2 1 3 1

Boulangerie were: du Mondedela in the2016Coupe The top three teams & The top three teams onthepodium.

4 .

The SouthKorean team members 1 3 2 5 st rd nd

The armored France T South K aiwan . 3

Breads orea 8 5 4 2 6 Taiwanese artistic Team Taiwan.

showpiece. Theme: Baseball. 6 8 7

Team Taiwan Assembling the Viennoiserie from

photo (center): Kathy high photos: europain france unless otherwise noted

coupe du monde de la boulangerie 25 photos: europain france europain photos: 4 3 ✹ . was an event of passion and dedication, .like every day day every .like and dedication, of passion an event was each country high, as were stakes The life. in a baker’s the winning title. home take to desperately wanted de Jeffrey Giusto, Nicky of composed was USA Team worked men three These Baggenstos. and Jacob Leon, their demonstrated and clearly as a tightly knit group over gaze proudly Jacob Watching the trade. for love being given as though I was I felt showpiece, his bread to be apart he had sacrificed all that glimpse into a tiny it was side of things, On the lighter of this competition. doing little hand gestures Nicky watching entertaining grin, biggest He had the in the crowd. his wife towards who fun. Jeffrey, having he was that evident and it was with his subtle more was in viennoiserie, competed team a fantastic he was that evident emotions, but it was maintain to hard fought team USA the As a group, player. had earned in 2012, edge their country the competitive place. second took when they It told witness. spectacular to de Monde was Coupe The territory new to baking has advanced the tale of how and home in its culture holding to fondly while still shone as South Korea competition, In this year’s France. Cup. the World baking and won for destination the new It was this verdict, by torn hearts were Although a few out, of sportsmanship play level see a mature to fantastic and dedication work the hard celebrated as everyone this event. had been put into that Products from Team France Team from Products

4

. on bicycling was showpiece artistic France’s Ott, and Martin, Déborah – Cyrille France Team &

1 2 2 3 . Vabret Christian by congratulated are Claude Casado,

baking & pastry student, vancouver island university, vancouver student, nanaimo, bc baking & pastry

here are no limits to what you can discover in the can discover you what no limits to are here distributors, to retailers From of Europain. world small to industrial patisseries, boulangeries to

a whole new world new whole a

scale; everything you can imagine takes form in a booth. form can imagine takes you scale; everything of talent, including is also a phenomenal scope There and (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France) MOFs the renowned inspiring about all most I found What Bakers. Master and their eagerness was professionals of the industry part The their knowledge. sharing enthusiasm towards one was no took me off guard first at that of Europain I talked Everyone a student. I was assumed automatically or a of a bakery the owner think I was seemed to to of times I was the amount count I couldn’t shop. pastry kilograms 3,000 in ordering be interested I’d if asked also it was Conversely, of that. of this or 500 kilograms who knew I never that and sort of exciting astonishing he one Or was me? like he a student Was someone was. Who! game of Guess a real-life It was of the best? seeing a whole like was show the trade around Looking and industry, about the excited was Everyone world. new a different its peak. Each booth told at was innovation trade. the of the future in play own its promised and story to in the art of cacao fermentation advancements From was there baguette, your rolling machines for the newest see and someone you to wanted something you always talk to. to wanted booths, I through wandering of the frenzy In between It de la Boulangerie. de Monde the Coupe also attended T by amera Johnson 1 26 coupe du monde de la boulangerie I These competitors from allover theworld putallof At theendofcompetition, itfelt like abulletto my When Iwas invited to goto Paris to seetheCoupe by jocelyn figueroa kendall college,chicago,kendall IL du MondedelaBoulangerie, Ihadnoideawhat Iwas du MondedelaBoulangerie. competition isway better that watching itonTV. end product. Isaw that someoftheteams hadissues, and watched competitions onTV, butseeing alive amazing, butwhenwe hitthearea where theCoupe about to experience. The Europain trade show was accommodations for whatever needed to bedone. ambition show inthepassion that they demonstrated. I as far asI’mconcerned, they actuallywon. Just to be seen anything like this.Ihave beenincompetitions see thiscompetition. The mainreason isYEAST. Iwas saying, butIcould tell what thejudgeswere looking world since Iwas inhighschool,butIhave never was, itwas phenomenal. Ireally thoughtitwas going was really inspired andhonored to seethe2016Coupe for. I’ve mademost ofthebreads that thecompetitors I would say “phenomenal.” Ihave beenintheculinary I may nothave understood everything they were taught that yeast doesnotwait for anyone. Once it their energy, passion, andambitioninto theirproducts. to belike atelevision competition, butwas Iwrong. Because Ihave someknowledge ofwhat ittakes to is activated, itstarts arace, andthefinishlineis the in theCoupe iswinning–theteam’s dedication and become abaker andto bake breads, Iwas excited to have made, soIhave thehighest respect for them. but they continued to work through itandmade heart whenIfound outTeam USA didnotplace. But de la boulangerie de la dumondecoupe phenomenal: ’m ajuniorat Kendall College. This was my first described inmany words, butifIhadto chooseone, time seeingaworldwide competition. Itcanbe Eric Kayser (third from left).

interviewed prominent French bakers, including 5 1 3

Jeffrey de Leon, Baylor Paschall, andArielle The Coupe Master ofCeremonies (far right) Innovative pastries take time Giusto celebrate at. theGuildhallGathering Vabret (left)talksto membersofthejury baking &pastry baking student, ✹ 2

A wall ofbread. .

4

Christian . 5 4 2 1 3

photo: coupe du monde de la boulangerie photo: europain france photo: sandra thielman photo: europain france

coupe du monde de la boulangerie 27

photo: kathy high kathy photo: high kathy photo: photos: gillian burgess unless otherwise noted otherwise unless burgess gillian photos: 3 1 The team team The

3 John Tredgold John Tredgold Coach Harry Coach

6 4 1 2 Peemoeller speaks speaks Peemoeller fans. plans. with baking students with baking students about their career about their career and coach greet their greet and coach students. College

(center) and Kendall and Kendall (center)

congratulate him. congratulate The hotel provided provided hotel The

5 Guildhall iaison L ::

Martin Ouimet and Solveig Tofte of Tofte Martin Ouimet and Solveig

4

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tel d'Aubusson

se F Nicky Giusto's family members were there to to there members were family Giusto's Nicky . the crowd for and sweets of savories a variety

(right) of Semifreddi's.

Paris Paris Ly Hô

Gathering february 9, 2016 9, february Sun Street Breads converse with John Tredgold with John Tredgold converse Breads Sun Street 6

5 2 baking reflections

Everyday Revolutions: RedefiningRedefiningRedefining thethethe DailyDailyDaily LoafLoafLoaf

by Amy Halloran Guild Member and Writer – Troy, New York

lucky Dog Organic is a farm in relatively new venture but echo Richard’s Michael O’Malley and Mercedes Teixido Hamden, New York, a one-road town in other, much different farming experiences, built a home a few miles from the farm. the Catskills. Richard Giles and Holley growing commodity grains in the South. They teach art at Pomona College in White run a storefront farm café that Southern California, and come to New “We grew hard winter wheat. I can’t kisses that road, and own or lease 150 York for summers and breaks. They joined remember the varieties,” Richard said, acres of land in the area. Between 40 and the CSA and developed a friendship with clipping the words in his southern accent. 60 acres are in vegetables any given year, Richard and Holley. Each word is more tight than drawn out, and about 25 are in grains. The food they but his pacing is easy and open. There’s In 2011, when Michael was on sabbatical, grow goes to the shelves in the farm store, a spaciousness that comes when talking he lived in the Catskills. Surrounded by area farmers markets, and to New York with him, room for thinking. “These were farms, he realized he wanted to grow City, at the Union Square and Fort Greene strictly commodities. A crop that you take wheat. This is not your average thought Greenmarkets. to the elevator and dump it, and take what for anyone, let alone an artist, but bread The couple left the city and began farming they offer.” had crept into his art and life. almost fifteen years ago. The grains are a His father worked at an experiment Good bread first hit him in Maine, where station on the Mississippi Delta, and he was working in ceramics and eating Richard worked farms in eastern loaves from Bodacious Breads. (This Mississippi and western Alabama. When bakery is now called Borealis Breads, the farm he was managing was sold, he and has been a leader in using regional went to grad school for fiction writing at grains.) Though Michael vowed then to the University of Alabama. He moved to learn to bake, it wasn’t until he was living New York City in 1995, and met Holley in Pasadena, where he couldn’t buy a there in 1999. Shortly after they met, they decent loaf of bread without effort, that left the city for the farm. the decision became a necessity. This coincided with a trip to Barcelona to Farming up north, he’s steered away from research the sculptor Gaudi. After he ate commodity crops because they were a exceptional pizza from a wood-fired oven, dead end. Lucky Dog has focused on spe- building an oven made it onto his list of cialty vegetables, and this niche found a musts as well. First, he dove into baking. receptive audience, especially among the The habit fed a lot of people and projects. restaurant chefs and buyers who frequent the Greenmarket. He and Holley have “I always bake two loaves and give one experimented with different sales formats away, so it serves as this kind of bridge to make the financials of farming work. between myself and the people in my life,” More wholesaling, then less. More farmers said Michael, who races through words markets, then fewer. For a while, they ran and ideas. He made a sourdough starter, a CSA, and this is what led to grains. too, and always gave that away. Soon he photo: chelsea green publishing photo:

{ 28 } the bread bakers guild of america baking reflections

started teaching people how to bake. He The informal partnership also began making temporary ovens as art gave Richard and Michael installations, and baking was always a part more than either could have of these art pieces. Growing grains was achieved working alone. the obvious next step. Lucky Dog had a new, intrigu- ing product, and Richard had Michael bought a combine on Craigslist, gained a new perspective on a little tow-behind All-Crop, the classic ellie markovitch photo: grains. Michael could get to harvester coveted by people who are not know flour from the ground going to grow many grains. Once he had up, and gain more under- the machine, he talked to Richard about standing of a substance and growing wheat for bread. He knew that process that fascinated him. Richard grew rye as a cover crop, so he figured he’d have a ready partner for the “Honey, cider, bread … I think project. Since Michael had the harvesting they’re some of the real equipment, and was willing to find and mystery foods of our planet. It pay for seed, as well as work out storage was a phenomenal experience in the barn, Richard was game. In the back seeing what we grew. You of his mind, he’d wanted to do something don’t have quite that with grains, but keeping his eye on so experience with a tomato,” many dozens of vegetables, the most he’d said Michael. You can’t, ever done was harvest some rye from time because you can just pick a to time for seed. tomato and put a little red or golden sun in your mouth. “Winter rye is so vigorous, but we’re real For bread, you need people, busy in summer with the vegetables, so I tools, and time. Consumption tended to plow it in,” Richard said. requires a lot of processing The grains have injected some extra and attention. enthusiasm into his farming work, which To Michael, the orchestration is often monotonous and hard. Richard of flour, water, salt, and wild Amy Halloran also enjoys the angle that growing grain yeasts parallels the practice brings to something he knew in an entirely of making art. Both start with a vision Meadows mill, but has been too busy to different context. and use materials to get to an end that set it up. The two want to mill at the farm “Our approaches are so different. He’s a is shared with an audience. Whether or nearby. baker. My experience is with conventional people are viewing art or eating bread, “If we could mill we could sell more. Right grains, farmed as a commodity crop that artists and bakers are connecting them to now wheatberries sell more than flour, but has a narrow life,” said Richard. manifestations of ideas and labor. it’s a very low volume and I would like To come back to grains with Michael’s In the fall of 2012, they planted 12 acres for it to become something wholesale,” insight is nice, and more akin to the way of grains, and the following July harvested said Richard. Not wholesale to a grain the farm handles vegetables, as foods that about 1,200 pounds an acre … Holley uses elevator, but specialty wholesale, maybe have value and variety. some of the flour for breads she bakes at to breweries or distilleries. Right now, the the store. Most of the grains and flour go grains don’t net enough income to warrant The collaboration made the endeavor to the farmers market at Union Square, extra labor. possible. The first year, in the fall of 2011, where Richard gets to see how they are they planted Arapahoe wheat and some The dimensions of the grain enterprise, received … Most customers are open to rye. Michael fixed up the combine and though limited, are satisfying, and trying whatever he brings, whether it’s readied a storage bin upstairs in the barn. contribute to the farm’s viability. Lucky watercress or Arapahoe flour. When they harvested 500 bushels, both Dog is one of many start-up farms that were surprised. This was something real, More than the flour, though, people are are recarving an abandoned path to New not conceptual. excited to try the wheat berries, using York City markets. ✹ them for sprouting or in stews. “The aroma, the feel, the freshness, you This excerpt from Amy Halloran’s book, never expect that from flour,” Richard Richard still plants rye as a cover crop, The New Bread Basket (July 2015), is said when they had Farmer Ground Flour, building organic matter in fields that grow reprinted with permission from Chelsea which is a couple of hours away, grind vegetables. Each year he bumps up the Green Publishing. some Arapahoe. acreage in grain. Michael has a 20-inch

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 29 } baking reflections

by Guild Member Hieromonk and Baker Demetrios The Monk’s Table Agiopnevmatitis Union Bridge, MD

Finished prosphora (Communion bread)

The Seeds of Monastery Bread responsibility that didn’t require verbal skills: caring for the trapeza (table), I am a bread baker and a monk and where the brothers and guests priest of the Orthodox Church. After six Baking ate twice a day. That included months of test baking and nine months slicing and setting out the of pilot-phase sales, I just bagged bread; we went through six or th the 1,000 loaf of Monastery o seven loaves per meal. I will Bread. (But who’s counting?) f r the never forget that bread. It was Among Guild members, I’m a donated to us by visitors and baked in the smaller quantity baker, but I town bakeries of Greece. It was a white am continuing a line of monks Monks’ bâtard containing a bit of olive oil, with who have been making bread for a thin, crispy crust topped with sesame centuries. seeds. Setting those beautiful loaves on My association with bread baking started the table was my first exposure to artisan when I was a boy in Middletown, MD, a able bread. And, on the Greek peninsula of country town just outside the city of T Athos, one clearly sees the ancient roots Frederick. My eldest sister worked for a answer each time in an effort to give them of “local grain economy”: their bread is supermarket bakery. She always came what they were looking for, with no luck. made with grain from their own fields. home in the evening, exhausted. While I was raised in a conservative Protestant There was a Father N. from Germany she ate dinner she would talk about her family; my father is an organist, and I living there, who said he couldn’t find the work. Her stories and love for the bakery, grew up in the various churches where Scandinavian breads of his youth. I didn’t in spite of its difficulties, made a lasting he played the organ. When I was in know what he was talking about. He said impression upon me. college in Philadelphia, I read about he wanted to build a wood-fired oven, but After high school, I attended community Mount Athos in Greece, which is home ongoing archaeological work had delayed t. N ina t. college. I also worked for a book to 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries, and that plan. Generally, a separate monastery warehouse, which was across the began attending Orthodox services. Soon bakery is normal in larger communities. street from a bakery. I applied to that after my last unsuccessful application At the end of my novitiate, the Patriarch bakery four times without success. The to the bakery, I met the Sisters of the of Georgia approved the establishment application said, “You must be able to lift Sacred Monastery of St. Nina. My whole of a men’s monastery in America, the 50 pounds.” Sure, I could lift 50 pounds life changed. I was so impressed by these founding brothers of whom came from S of M onastery acred of books, and flour couldn’t be any harder women who had taken monastic vows. I Greece and Georgia. I returned from to carry. Plus, that bakery smelled great! knew that I wanted to become a monk. Greece with them. Now a monk, I was I never found out why they didn’t hire I went to Greece and became a novice ordained a Hierodeacon (monk and me, but in general it was very hard to get (literally, “One who is being tested”) at deacon), and then a Hieromonk (monk a job in that part of the city. There was a the Holy Monastery of Petra in central and priest). I live now at the Monastery funny question on the application: “What Greece. As someone who was still of St. Nina in Union Bridge, Maryland, is your favorite food?” I kept changing my isters of the S S isters P hoto: learning to speak Greek, I was given a serving as Chaplain.

{ 30 } the bread bakers guild of america baking reflections

My first baking experience here was to learn how to make prosphora (Greek for “offering”), our Communion bread. In the Orthodox Church, leavened bread is used. In the beginning, nobody taught me how to bake prosphora; I was given a recipe by one of the Fathers, who told me that I needed to adapt it. At St. Nina’s, one of the Sisters bakes the prosphora using photo: hieromonk demetrius photo: a formula and method from her grand- mother. I am observing and learning from her. But we are also modifying her formula based on what I have been learn- ing in The Guild, to produce a greater quantity with more desirable qualities. I am pretty sure we are the only monastery Grounds of the Monastery of St. Nina in Union Bridge, MD using autolyse for our prosphora dough! A few times each week I am caught within on the weekends. In the future, I hope to mixing immediately after the morning a mysterious confluence of events: in the provide that on a daily basis, as the large meal and baking in the early afternoon morning I enter the church and prepare monasteries do. before prep work for the evening meal Holy Communion, and in the afternoon I begins. This compact schedule works I joined The Guild for the sake of asking bake bread. well, since I mix 100% whole grain dough, only one question – but I have benefited which otherwise would deteriorate under more than I could ever have imagined. The Fruit of Monastery Bread a longer warm proof. I learned by reading, asking questions In the fall of 2014, I began baking table on the eGroup, and meeting with local In spring of 2015, I did my first farmer’s bread for Nordic friends of the monastery bakers. Articles from Bread Lines helped, market. At this point we switched to 100% who were in a situation similar to Father especially when Nate Houge of Brake organic ingredients. Monasticism carries N’s – they were desperate for “real bread.” Bread wrote about using a rental kitchen an implicit ecological responsibility: it The bread was a big hit, and not only and time slots [Bread Lines volume 23, is not merely a courtesy but a necessity with the Northern European friends. It Issue 2]. I identified with their situation to support organic farmers and millers. occurred to me that I might bake bread because I share the monastery kitchen, This past fall I entered a promising to sell. I needed a handiwork to help where two large meals are prepared relationship with a small organic grocery support the brotherhood – each one of us each day. I bake primarily alone, but chain and began to design the next phase has a responsibility to contribute to the monastery pilgrims sometimes assist of growth: a detached bakery building. community. An additional goal for me me. My style has developed into using a Lastly, our label is changing from was to produce delicious bread for meals large preferment with a shorter bulk rise, “Monastery Bread” to “The Monk’s Table.” t. N ina t. S of M onastery acred isters of the S S isters P hotos:

A prosphoron loaf, made up of two circular pieces of Fr. Demetrios unloading loaves in the monastery kitchen. leavened dough, one on top of another. The loaf is stamped with religious symbols. The plural of prosphoron is prosphora.

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 31 } baking reflections

I currently make four kinds of bread: 1 a 75% whole wheat with 25% whole rye sourdough 2 the same variety with raisins 3 a 66% whole rye 4 a pumpernickel All things considered, I believe the true fruit of the work is the positive impact that the bread has on people of all ages and backgrounds, on the friends of the Monastery who come to see the work and bake with me, and on me. The Apostle Paul speaks of many such “fruits of the spirit”: love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, gentleness, and self-control (Gal. 5:22-23). It is my hope that these are what the work of baking at the monastery has to offer people – not merely a return to the bread of their childhood, but also a return to childhood’s natural and peaceful simplicity. I am extremely grateful for all the support and help of The Bread Bakers Guild. ✹

TOP RIGHT: Shaping rye bread. RIGHT: Selling Monk’s Table breads at a Christmas Fair.

RIGHT: Father Demetrios (left) with Jeff Kessler.

BELOW: Breads from The Monk's Table D r. J ohn R azi center left, N ina except t. onastery of S M onastery acred isters of the S S isters P hotos:

Fr. Demetrios packaging the monastery breads for sale.

{ 32 } the bread bakers guild of america technical article Defining Brioche: History & Standards

By Melina Kelson-Podolsky Guild Board Member and Assistant Professor, Kendall College, Chicago, IL

A s craftspeople, bakers latch onto became a popular bread during Easter brioche with you wish to make, mould into guidelines so that we can preserve the and throughout the year. rounds with your hand, flatten the top, gild identity of a product and communicate with some beaten egg, bake them in the Brioche, distinguished as a luxurious clearly. When we see misappropriated oven. For the little ones, bake them half an departure from the heavy, whole-meal terms, it’s frustrating and confusing. hour, and the big ones an hour and a half. trencher bread used for the people’s This article was prompted by a robust sustenance, has been considered a special In the 18th century, brioche was not conversation on The Guild’s eGroup on bread since its introduction to the bakery sweetened. Also, until the 18th century, how brioche is defined. canon. It co-evolved with Pain Benit or brioche was commonly made with levain. So, what is brioche? Like so many other blessed bread, an enriched bread that The more “princely,” the more eggs and symbolic foods, brioche has a long and was given as alms in the Catholic Church. butter, but none of these quantities was murky backstory with a good dose of Early recipe books lumped the two breads fixed. For daily bread, historically, bakers urban legend mixed in. together, as in La Varenne's Le Cuisinier set prices for their loaves, as overseen by François of 1651, where “Pain Benit and the monarchy. Rather than changing the Brioche and Pain Benit Brioche” are combined as a category. The actual price per loaf, bakers were more 18th century historian Pierre Jean-Baptiste likely to change formulas, subsidizing The Norman Vikings populated Northern Legrand d’Aussy later wrote that brioche wheat with cheaper cereals, or they would France with their dairy cows as early as was being used as Pain Benit – and the even change the size of their loaves. 800 CE. The Normans were famous for conflation of doughs still persists. their outstanding, high-fat butter, which, *A litron is equal to 793.5 ml, for centuries, was cultured, giving it a In my research, I was not able to find or about 3.5 cups. more complex flavor and a cheesier firm and fast definitions for Pain Benit. texture. In fact, “brioche” shares roots in I did, however, find a recipe for brioche Let Them Eat Brioche Old French with “brie,” because the butter from 1746: Often brioche is held up as a symbol of in brioche was like a soft cheese. The Put a litron* of flour on the table and the callousness of the monarchy leading name, which first appeared in print in the knead with a little hot water and little up to the French Revolution. It turns out early 1400s, is possibly a hybrid of “brie” more than half an ounce of ale yeast; if that this is all due to a misattributed story. and “horcher,” meaning to knead. you don’t have any, you will add in its In his posthumous autobiography, Norman farmers were likely to consume place a little piece of bread yeast. Wrap Confessions, Jean-Jacques Rousseau their wares for subsistence, but the appeal in a cloth and put it to rise in a warm quotes a “great princess,” who, after being of rich dairy was cherished by all and was place for a quarter of an hour in summer, told that the peasants were starving viewed as a luxurious necessity. To fund and one hour in winter. Next, you will put because they had no bread, responded the building of the Rouen Cathedral’s new two litrons of flour on the table with the with, “Qu'ils mangent de la brioche.” This tower in 1509, the archbishop prohibited paste, which you have made as the leaven, phrase, accurately translated as, “Let the consumption of local Normandy one pound and a half of butter, ten eggs, them eat brioche,” was a genuine solution. butter during Lent – unless one paid a half a glass of water, nearly one ounce of However it was later misinterpreted to fee of six deniers to the Church. Eating fine salt, knead everything together with mean, “Let them eat cake,” a careless butter became a symbol of wealth and the flat of the hands, up to three times, dismissal of the peasants’ struggle. power as the peasant producers were sprinkle it with flour and wrap it in a cloth, Further, the quote’s unspecified author denied it. The tower is still known as the in order to let it rise for nine or ten hours, was assumed to be the unpopular Queen Tour de Beurre (Tower of Butter). Brioche cut the paste according to the size of your

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 33 } technical article

Marie Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI, who I reached out to the French reigned during years of famine and embassy and learned that only excessive taxation. Although Confessions Brioche Vendéenne – a regional was published in 1782, it was written in brioche with less butter and 1765, when Marie Antoinette was a nine more sugar – is regulated as year old child. The unnamed speaker a geographically protected was actually Maria Theresa, wife of Louis product. The standards are very XIV, who ruled 100 years before Marie clearly defined to protect terroir Antoinette. Maria Theresa’s intention was and identity. This seems to be a melina kelson-podolsky P hotos: compassionate: remember that Pain Benit reaction – as Brioche Vendéenne and brioche were used interchangeably. became industrialized, the quality She was referring to Pain Benit, the alms plummeted. fed to the hungry. Here is the description: “It is a The quote became popular in the years golden pastry, round or oval or a

after 1782, when France was in the midst rectangle. It’s always presented Orange brioche of social foment. In 1789, anti-monarchical fresh, whole or sliced, wrapped in tensions exploded into the French food-grade paper. Frozen dough Revolution, perpetuated by the belief during production or for final product is “Fermentation that the queen was out of touch with the prohibited. Brioche is made with a rich “No-time doughs are prohibited. people and characterized by the infamous dough with sugar and eggs. In addition phrase: Let them eat cake. to the attributes contributed by those “The dough, once mixed has a long, slow ingredients, it has the fragrance of alcohol first fermentation. Two techniques are In the time following the Revolution, with a base of vanilla and orange blossom. employed, first a direct fermentation there were no definitive texts codifying It’s characterized by a yellow crumb, that method of 4 hours at room temperature brioche standards, until the 1950s, when has an airy texture, pulls in strings and is followed by a cold fermentation for 24 Duval and Darenne’s Traité de Pâtisserie moist. The minimum weight is 300 grams.” hours. The long fermentation method Moderne was published. A rough can be considered in two parts; the first translation: The article goes on to explain that the part during which the aroma builds and original product is based upon a particular “The brioche dough has 4–8 eggs for secondarily when the CO is developed geographic location that, at the height 2 500 g of flour. Next, if we are going to giving the unique characteristics of the of the Middle Ages, created the highest add milk to the dough, use 6–7 eggs. Brioche Vendéenne. This fermentation quality dairy, wheat, salt, and alcohol. The Don’t remove the yolks because they process is responsible for Brioche specified region and superior attributes soften the dough and give a sandy texture. Vendéenne as opposed to other forms of for each of these ingredients is clearly If we use manufactured, instant yeast, we brioche. defined. must mix it only enough not to damage “The dough is hand-shaped, garnished, and the yeast. Brioche is made with two rises The article outlines the composition: baked. It is only baked in a tunnel or deck at different intervals. The first time we “Brioche Vendéenne is made from the oven. Rotating or convection ovens are turn it with the flour and a good amount following: prohibited. of force and flour coated hands. Then, I put it in a mold to rise. In the summer, the “: Type 45 or 55 flour “The baking is done at low temperatures yeast is prepared with cold water. In the : >14% Cold eggs or whole, fresh liquid over the course of 20–45 minutes. winter, it is better to use tepid water. In eggs at 22% “After baking, the Brioche Vendéenne is the same way, adjusting to the season, it’s : >12.5% fresh butter packaged in clear packaging with a label necessary to maintain the dough at a cold : >9% sugar or invert sugar that indicates the date. Shelf life is 21 temperature or in the refrigerator, to slow : Pâte fermentée or levain is mandatory days for the entire brioche, 19 days sliced, the rise.” : <2% fresh bakers’ yeast or 5 days for brioche of several kilos : 0.5% alcohol such as rum or cognac (custom orders). The brioches need to Brioche Vendéenne : 0.8–1% salt be transported in single layers if shipped : <8% potable water and or fresh or I was hoping for something more absolute. more than 80 kilos. NO STACKING! Once pasteurized or UHT milk I looked to American texts but could find brought to market, the brioche must be : Aromatics such as vanilla or orange only one that suggests that brioche needs whole and needs to be presented in a dry blossom water a minimum of 30% fat to be classified as area, protected from direct sunlight. “poor man’s brioche.” However, I couldn’t cross-verify the assertion.

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“The Brioche Vendéenne represents 11% “Most of the liquid is whole eggs, although “Laminated, which can be made with of Viennoiserie market and 17% of the sometimes milk is used, usually in the average butter or détrempe can have brioche market. That accounts for 15,000 sponge to balance flavor. To aid in mixing, fat reduced to 25% with a laminating metric tons of bread.” reserve roughly ⅛ of the egg to add beurrage of 25% total dough weight.” following initial development. Once the He goes on to identify the ideal doughs Professor Calvel and Brioche dough has pulled away from the sides, for a particular application, and even (after roughly 12 minutes of second The French legislative process to protect attributes an entire chapter to regional speed mixing and about 72°), mount in the identity of this item is also published. specialties. What an excellent reminder butter. Mix until the dough miraculously In the United States, we don’t have that all crumb-lined paths eventually lead reorganizes into an extensible mass. a governmental body that strives to to Calvel. Ferment at room temperature before maintain the integrity of national foods, retarding to make the dough more Although we may not have the bureau- and this level of regulation, I suspect, manageable, develop strength and cratic weight of a governmental body, would be unwelcome here. In my mind, aroma. He references various brioche into as artisans, we preserve the standard of there is one definitive source that North categories by the quantity of butter: these products by being consistent with American bakers adhere to as The our offerings and educating our custom- Standard, and that’s Raymond Calvel. “: Average, with 40% ers. As frustrating as it may be to see : High average, with 50% butter In his book Le Goût du Pain (A Taste butter-less products touted as “brioche,” : Mousseline or Chiffon with 70% butter of Bread), Calvel gives the following take heart that a well-made product earns guidelines about the dough: the return customer. ✹

Brioche Contributed by Melina Kelson-Podolsky Process – Brioche A classic buttery, Mixing Type of mixer Spiral light brioche. Mix style Intense Hold back Butter st mixing 1 Speed 0:04 nd : Prepare cold butter by pounding 2 Speed 0:12 st between acetate sheets or Silpat®. 1 Speed 0:01, slowly adding butter : Do not allow dough temperature 2nd Speed 0:08–0:10 to exceed 90⁰F. If necessary, chill Dough temp 78°F–80°F dough during mix. Fermentation Length of time 1:00 Temperature 72°F brioche Retard 8:00–12:00 Total Weight 10.000 kg Temperature 38°F As required to reduce final dough Folds Ingredients % kilograms dough temp; typically 2–3 Bread Flour* 100.00 4.246 Shaping Divide As desired Egg, cold 59.00 2.505 Preshape As desired Salt 2.50 0.106 Resting time 0:10 Osmotolerant Yeast 2.00 0.085 Shape As desired Unsalted Butter, cold 60.00 2.548 Proofing device As desired Sugar 12.00 0.510 Garnish Egg wash before proof Totals 235.50 10.000 Proof & Bake Final proof time 2:00 Egg Wash† TemperatureAs 80°F Needed 85%–90% Laminated Brioche made by *Hard red winter wheat (11.5%–12% protein) Humidity Kendall College students. †100% egg, 1% salt Garnish Egg wash before loading Oven type Convection Total bake Small shapes Large shapes 0:12–0:15 0:30–0:35 Temperature 375°F 350°F

bread lines – spring 201 6 { 35 } technical article costa costa aniel A Milk and Pear hoto: D P hoto: Starters

By michael pappas Guild Member and Executive Chef The King’s Kitchen, Charlotte, NC

There are various opinions about the different stages of starters: from how we choose to create a starter, to when we decide to perpetuate and use it. I’d like to tell you about two of my methods – I feel that they can open new doors to

A high hydration flour-water beginning starter, 75% experimenting with naturally leavened starters. covered with plastic so that the overripe pear can attract yeast into the opening.

s oppressata, gruyÈre, Total Flour Total Flour Total Flour black pepper and honey loaf Fermented in Starter 16.67% Fermented in Levain 16.67% Prefermented 33.33% Total Ingredient Weight 1.217 kg Bread Flour 0.00% Bread Flour 0.00% Bread Flour 0.00% Total Dough Weight 0.948 kg Whole Wheat Flour 37.50% Whole Wheat Flour 37.50% Whole Wheat Flour 75.00% Total Formula starter levain final dough* Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms Total Flour 100.00 0.510 100.00 0.085 100.00 0.085 100.00 0.340 Organic Bread Flour 55.56 0.283 83.33 0.283 Organic Stoneground Wh Wht Flour 44.44 0.227 100.00 0.085 100.00 0.085 16.67 0.057 Spring Water 72.22 0.369 100.00 0.085 100.00 0.085 58.33 0.198 Salt 1.39 0.007† 2.08 0.007 Soppressata, diced ½" 22.22 0.113 33.33 0.113 Gruyère, diced ½" 22.22 0.113 33.33 0.113 Honey 16.67 0.085 25.00 0.085 Black Peppercorns, ground coarse 3.78 0.019‡ 5.67 0.019 Starter 16.67 0.014 Levain 20.83 0.071 Subtotals 0.948 Discarded Starter 0.156 Discarded Levain 0.113 Totals 238.50 1.217 200.00 0.170 216.67 0.184 278.58 1.217 Hard Cheese 1 Rind small piece 1 small piece

* In this formula hydration of Final Dough is most representative of product †1 tsp at this batch size ‡3 Tbsp at this batch size

{ 36 } the bread bakers guild of america technical article

Milk Starter and experimentation led me to harvest As you continue building the final dough different yeast strands from host and proceed to the baking process, you A few years ago, I was regularly baking environments to unlock various sugars, will find flavors and a color profile within a naturally leavened loaf with white starches, and proteins. These variations your pear-starter loaf that will not be in flour. It consistently came out of the produced different characteristics in the loaves made with the non-pear starter. oven smelling like milk chocolate. I have finished loaf, with flavor being The different colors and flavors are due been a professional chef for nearly 20 most affected. to the different sugars, starches, and years, so I was certain that my nose and proteins unique to the pear. palate were not fooling me. However, there was no chocolate in the starter or Pear Starter It is my hope that these loaves will bring the final dough, and it was not caused by you the same satisfaction that has shared Try beginning a starter with a slightly something stuck to my baking stones. by my customers and colleagues. ✹ overripe pear placed near the opening I sought to understand why and have of your initial mix of organic flour and since discovered that a very small purified water. Also try another initial mix addition of a dairy product into the final without a pear and put it a great distance Process – Soppressata, Gruyere, build unlocks a specific sugar within the from your starter with the pear. Black Pepper and Honey Loaf wheat particles that is also found in the Preferment Starter After 48 hours at room temperature, cocoa bean. Try putting a few ounces of Mixing Type of mixer Hand taste the difference, smell the difference, Length of time Until incorporated organic milk into the final build of your and observe the difference. You will Dough temp 75°F naturally leavened dough and bake your probably notice that the pear has yeast loaf dark. When the bread is baking, the Fermentation Length of time 48:00 cells on it; those cells migrated into the scent of chocolate will be obvious to you. Temperature 70°F–75°F starter. Yeast strains in your bake shop The realization that different aspects also gravitated to the pear. Normally, Preferment Levain of wheat particles could be unlocked these yeast strains would not have been Mixing Type of mixer Hand led me to find other activators. Logic attracted to your starter. Length of time Until incorporated Dough temp 75°F

Fermentation Length of time 12:00–18:00 Temperature 70°F–75°F

Final Dough Mixing Type of mixer Hand Mix style Short Soppressata, Gruyère, Hold back Salt Length of time Until incorporated Black Pepper and Honey Loaf Dough temp 75°F Contributed by Michael Pappas Fermentation Length of time 3:30 Temperature 70°F–75°F Number of folds 1 Timing for folds 1:00 A clean-tasting loaf infused levain Add Salt during fold with cheese and fermented : After mixing, completely cover Shaping Divide Baker’s choice container’s opening with plastic wrap. Preshape Baker’s choice pork fat which is balanced Resting time As necessary final dough with honey and sharpened Shape Baker’s choice : The final dough should look shaggy with Proofing device Baker’s choice with black pepper. no dry spots. : Add salt after 1 hour of fermentation – Proof & Bake Final proof time 2:30 starter sprinkle some onto the dough and fold Temperature 70°F–75°F : Place ingredients in drinking glass it over upon itself. Repeat until the salt is Oven type Deck and mix. evenly distributed, which can take up to Scoring Baker’s choice : Cover 75% of opening with plastic wrap; 4 folds. Steam A few seconds place cheese rind on top. : After mixing, completely cover Total bake 0:30 container’s opening with plastic wrap. Temperature 420°F Damper open When bread starts to color bread lines – spring 201 6 { 37 } baking history

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categories: baking science and methods, There are clues to the careers of those how to bake in garrison or field, and who likely spent their baking lives within “Good bread is in a the logistics of moving and setting up a the U.S. military. There are two references class by itself, and mobile, wood-fired bakery. The format to the Philippines, one in regard to Army bakers fill a most of the text in this Bread Lines article freshness of flour delivered there “after stays as close as possible to the Manual. a long voyage in the hold of a ship” and responsible position Sometimes the formatting simply draws also a strange preferment cultured in supplying this most attention to the information. For example, from palm sap. It seems likely that Sgt. important component of “The baker must know what accelerates Doughberman was a long-time Army the ration.” and what retards fermentation.” In baker who spent time in the Philippines other passages, the formatting seems during the 1899–1902 Philippine- – Manual For Army to command the baker to do what’s American War, where the over 100,000 Bakers, 1916 best in order to make good bread, “The service persons needed to eat bread. combination thermometer is for use and During the first decade and a half of not for ornament.” the century since the Philippine War, mechanization for the World War I-era he Manual For Army Bakers, 1916 The Context of US Army Army baker changed in the bake shop as edition is an illustrated, 123-page Baking in 1916 well as on the battlefield. Diagrams in the hardcover booklet that weighs T It’s important to understand the Manual are given for the construction 125 g, although its role in helping feed geopolitical climate and possible career of 14' long wooden mixing troughs, but World War I troops gives it much context of that regular Army baker on it is noted, “These troughs have in the more weight. In it, H.L. Scott, Major the eve of a terrible struggle that would larger bakeries been replaced by steel General of the War Department, thanks eventually take away the satisfaction troughs, which are easier to keep clean. numerous officers, but the baker or of eating bread from 117,000 American The latter are mounted on rollers for bakers who recorded their knowledge soldiers. After years of President more convenient use in connection with in the Manual go nameless. There is no Woodrow Wilson’s attempt to keep the the dough mixer and for running in and acknowledgment of, for instance, “Sgt. country out of World War I, the United out of the proof room.” It is evident that Dewey Doughberman, for imparting States declared war on Germany in April mechanization is beginning to enter his knowledge of the essential service 1917. Although Wilson hadn’t increased the commercial bakery, although all of baking with a mind for efficiency the size of the military since hostilities (very sparse) mixing instructions are and an appreciation for quality bread broke out in Europe in 1914, preparations for hand mixing. Instructions are given in the garrison and field.” However, for war had been undertaken. The Manual for building a wood-fired oven out of explanations of bread ingredients and for Army Bakers 1916 was likely part of barrels or carving out “an Oven in a steep fermentation, detailed discussions on that preparation. bank.” However, wood-fired, “knockdown how to bake bread for an army in times type” ovens are covered, with detailed of peace or war, and instructions on how The experienced voice behind the text, instructions on how to assemble, fire, use, to produce bread in a mobile, wood-fired though, seems to reflect more than a disassemble, pack, and load them onto a bakery and then pack it for transport to few years of baking experience. Many wagon for transport to the next site. troops in the fields are clearly written of the succinct comments are packed by regular Army bakers with deep with information from somebody who And those Guild members who deliver knowledge and experience in the ranks had managed a bakery production large bread will appreciate that the Manual and on the bench. enough to know that in rail shipment, includes instructions for packing bread flour “sacks should be laid lengthwise of on both a horse-drawn escort wagon and The information in the Manual is the car, ears toward the center.” a truck. broken into three broad and overlapping

{ 38 } the bread bakers guild of america baking history

In addition to compressed yeast and professional and practical insight of entirely displaced by the compressed motorized delivery trucks, the era’s unnamed Army bakers comes through yeasts, which are great savers of time technological ‘‘advances” also included the text. Those parts of the book are, and trouble and a boon to those who do tanks and poison gas. A grim war perhaps, most identifiable to today’s not or cannot make liquid yeasts. All machine had “mutated” during the bread baker. The detail-oriented voice Army bakers should know how to make career of an Army baker on active duty we hear in ourselves and the bakers and use liquid yeasts, for there will since the Philippine-American War. around us is predated in this 100-year-old be times that compressed yeast is not Just 14 years earlier, the conflict in the text. Often the point is understated, but obtainable.” Philippines had claimed the lives of 6,000 the implications are important in the They are the most common yeasts American and 20,000 Filipino soldiers, education of a baker: “A pale loaf results prepared by Army bakers, yet they and the conditions of war, including from an absence of sugar, a slow oven, or have been almost entirely displaced terrible disease, led to the deaths of an old dough.” And clearly there was an by compressed yeast. Is this passage a 250,000 Filipino civilians. In contrast, observant baker who put forth the idea, philosophical struggle between officers the ‘”Great War”’ would claim 15 to 18 “A dough may be compared to the human and enlisted men regarding time million lives distributed across those body … You can not get good work out of management vs. quality bread? And again, categories. Reading the Manual is sad an underfed dough any more than you the poignancy comes through when one when you think about the terrible carnage can out of an underfed man.” realizes that the conditions contributing happening, and about to happen, at that The phasing out of preferments in Army to unobtainable compressed yeast are the time. The Manual was published in late baking can be seen before the broader U.S. vagaries of war and the complications of November of 1916, near the end of the 11- bread culture was taken over by no-time an imminently tenuous supply chain. month-long Battle of Verdun and its more doughs. The Manual calls preferments than 700,000 casualties. The words sourdough or naturally ‘”Liquid Yeasts’” and seems conflicted leavened bread are not mentioned, but on whether it recommends them or not, In the Bakeshop instructions on how to build a culture based on time savings compared to the Who trained Sgt. Doughberman? Like importance of being able to Americans of many eras, he seems provide bread in the absence like a hybrid of old and new worlds. of compressed yeast. Mechanization of the bread baking process isn’t as prevalent as the reliance “56. Liquid yeasts … are on the time-saving use of compressed the most common yeasts yeast. Bread hadn’t yet been diminished prepared by Army bakers. by high-speed mixing, excessive yeast They are really old- ratios, and humid, high temperature fashioned yeasts, and are fermentation environments … although generally considered as out there are heavy hints of the arrival of of date or behind the times, that American baking style. Still, the and they have been almost akers 1916, courtesy of R ichard M iscovich A rmy B akers 1916, courtesy for T he M anual photos:

LEFT: Two-barrel clay oven. RIGHT: “Field Oven NO. 1 partially set up on brick fire box.” The Manual states Field Oven NO. 1 “will bake approximately 3,500 pounds of issue bread, or 2,000 pounds of field bread, per day, if operated continuously.” bread lines – spring 201 6 { 39 } baking history are described. Potatoes and plain flour, and then add to flour dough gradually, “133 … He takes particular care that the among other ingredients, are used stirring well to make a thin batter. Set water used in making doughs is of the to start these cultures, referred to as to cool. When cooled to 80° F., keep proper temperature to give an average “virgin.” However, “stocked” preferments, at that temperature for from 48 to 60 for flour, tent, and water of 240° F. (234 that include compressed yeast, are also hours, when it will be ready to use. in summer, 246 in winter).” detailed as to their preparation. 70. Flour, yeast, “stocked.” – Made with In addition to the water temperature “69. Flour yeast, “virgin.” – same as above, except when cooled to calculation, the Manual also discusses Recipe for 1 gallon: 80° F. stock with ½ ounce compressed the cons, pros and importance of two Ingredients: 4 pounds flour, 3 quarts yeast, 1½ ounces dried yeast, or 1 pint of different army issued thermometers. water, 1 ounce sugar, ¼ ounce salt. stocked yeast. Should be ready in from “167. Thermometers – The oven 18–24 hours.” Put water to boil. Put flour in earthen or thermometer is of the expansion spring wooden receptacle. Dissolve sugar and The Manual does not include a “Care and type. These thermometers do not salt in water. Maintenance” section that details how to register alike, and bakers must learn keep the naturally leavened preferment the registration of the thermometer for When water is heated to 125° F. add 1 healthy and ready to use. each oven to give the proper baking quart to flour, enough to make a stiff temperature. Some ovens will have dough, and work up by hand. Allow The reliance on the speediness of the right heat when the expansion remainder of water to come to a boil compressed yeast is understandable when thermometer registers 450° F., others at one considers the 600 (sic) F.” ambitious time frame expected Combination – The combination to set up a field thermometer is for use and not for bakery and have ornament. If the thermometer is not it producing used to get temperature of the flour bread. “If the and mixing tent before making the entire company dough, the water used must be taken by and transportation guesswork. Apparently unexplainable are available, the differences in the time of proving of field bakery can be doughs or appearance of different unloaded from the runs of bread can usually be traced cars, hauled 1 mile to lack of use or carelessness in the and set up ready use of the thermometer when mixing for work in six the dough or regulating the heat hours.” of the mixing tent. The case of the combination thermometer is practically The military indestructible if used with any ordinary approach to rank degree of care.” and responsibility works out very Uncle Sam wants YOU to control your well as far as temps and doesn’t mind getting snarky consistently about it. It seems as though it drove ensuring good Sgt. Doughberman crazy when bakers bread. The told them they were determining water Duties Of The temperature by feel. He seemed equally Chiefs include bothered by improperly cared for the following equipment. Having a broken thermometer responsibility: is no excuse. It seems poignantly naïve to call a thermometer case “practically indestructible,” when lives, fierce steel machines, and miscellaneous cases were being destroyed all around the world. TOP: Field bread But what about the bread and other packed on escort baked products? This publication is not wagon. BOTTOM: Field bread a cookbook but a manual to make bread, packed on truck. “… this most important component of the

{ 40 } the bread bakers guild of america baking history ration.” There are only two main types of TOP: Baking in the open bread in the Manual, Garrison Bread and trench. BOTTOM: Field bread out of the oven. Field Bread. There are some variations for products like graham bread, salt-rising The advantage of bread and sweet dough, etc., but Garrison the rounded loaf, Bread and Field Bread are emphasized. flattened out, is in the tighter union of 144. The type of bread baked in a post bakery and distributed to troops is the bottom crust. familiar to all. It is usually designated Allow the chamber as garrison bread. doors to remain Field bread is the term applied to a type open the last 15 of bread having a greater density, a minutes of baking. thicker crust, and a consequent higher Bake for one hour capacity for retaining moisture than and a half at 475° F., garrison bread. … On account of its letting fall to 450° F. thick crust and great density it will last half hour. keep fresh longer than garrison bread, and, as it is hard and firm, it can be When making transported with less danger of being continuous runs of damaged through rough handling … In field bread divide order that the bakers be kept proficient the four men of the in the making of field bread, it should unit into two shifts be made and issued once a week in of two men each, permanent camp.” each shift working eight hours, and In the Manual, Garrison and Field Bread taking up the work formulas both have options for using at the point left off either straight dough or sponge methods. by the preceding Here is the formula and parts of the shift. The shifts methodology for making a straight dough should alternate field bread. from day to day to equalize the work. 146. Field bread (straight dough), 144 pounds. – Ingredients: 105 pounds of For field bread make a dough every axis include “Ammonia, “H. H.”, rosewater flour, 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds salt, hour and 30 minutes. Seven runs (used in the wine cake and lady cake), 8 ounces cottonseed oil (or lard), 12 can be produced in 16 hours by this and the inclusionary category labeled ounces compressed yeast, about 6 ½ method. This is considered an average “Extracts.” There is no yeast in the gallons of water. day’s work for a unit and is about the ingredient selections, so Appendix C was Mix into a very stiff dough. Dough maximum amount of work the men can a nod to the pastry side of the bakery. It is should be ready to punch the first stand continuously, although they can a lovely table, concise and useful. time in four and one-half hours. Punch provide 10 runs per day for a short time. Marching on its Stomach second time after one hour. Scale at 4 There are also numerous formulas in pounds 8 ounces, round up and flatten Appendix C. Ready Reference Table for The Manual For Army Bakers, 1916 has out into a round loaf about 1½ inch Cakes, Etc., intended for the permanent this passage tucked away into the section thick. Allow only 15 minutes’ proof garrison bakery but not stated as such. titled Duties of Personnel. in the pan. Just before putting in the The 46 recipes include a pound cake base, 131 … The officer in charge. He can oven make a round hole in the center a selection of layer cakes, 3 pie crusts (1 consider his mission accomplished only of the loaf with the ends of thumb and with butter, 2 with lard), Plum Duff No. 1 when the troops are promptly supplied forefinger joined together. This hole and Plum Duff No. 2 (both with suet and with good bread, both in camp and on is of sufficient size to permit the gas needing to be steamed for 5-8 hours), the march. to escape and will result in a loaf less wedding cake, cocoanut (sic) macaroons, liable to crush in transportation, less lemon jumbles, and wine cake containing We can only hope that the Army bakers’ subject to mold, and with a smoother brandy but no wine. Appendix C is a successful completion of this mission appearance than one that has been table printed on fold-out onionskin. The made war a little less hellish for anybody slashed across the surface with a knife. products appear on the vertical axis and who ate from Sgt. Doughberman’s the ingredients listed along the horizontal bakery. ✹ bread lines – spring 201 6 { 41 } baking reflections Gluten By Andrew Ross Guild Member and Professor, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR

In the current era the gas-holding and viscoelastic properties. some have blamed the variety Norin-10, Gliadins contribute flow, and glutenins the donor of the most widely deployed goodness of wheat contribute elasticity in a wheat-flour reduced height genes to North America, is under assault. This dough. Of the two types, the gliadins are for “all the problems with wheat.” But by bothers me. I think that considered the more problematic in the any current reckoning, Norin-10 is an old triggering of celiac disease. wheat; the cross was made in 1924. And wheat is wholesome Norin-10 has a venerable pedigree. One So, about gliadins. In Wheat Belly, the of its parents is Turkey Red. On the other and that well-made author makes this specific statement, side the parent was an unnamed line, and, astonishingly, people believe it: “It is products created from “Daruma x Glassy Fultz.” The Japanese an 18-inch tall plant created by genetic variety, Daruma, was the short wheat, and wheat are enjoyable research in the ‘60s and ‘70s ... such as Glassy Fultz was a reselection from an old there’s a new protein in this thing called and nutritious fare. American variety/landrace called Fultz. gliadin. It’s not gluten.” It took 0.4 seconds There is no discontinuity. The “modern” to come up with 10,100 results after But there have been some very specific wheats derive from the older wheats in an typing “Triticum monococcum gliadins” allegations made against wheat: “a unbroken lineage. Even in the USA there into Google, and 0.04 seconds for 1,420 perfect chronic poison” said one very loud were early short wheats, notably the 1794 results in Google Scholar! Triticum commentator. Within our own community, variety, Forward, that produced “one third monococcum is einkorn. Einkorn has so-called “modern wheats” are demonized less straw on a short stem.” by some. Is there any credence to these gliadins, and einkorn is definitely not a allegations? There are a lot of possible product of genetic research in the 1960s. But make no mistake, there are and valuable perspectives I could take, The statement quoted above is simple, problems with wheat. Celiac disease, including discussions of mineral content, unmitigated nonsense. an autoimmune disorder, is the most recognized. There are also a group of and flavor and aroma, particularly With respect to the “18-inch tall plant,” true allergies associated with wheat. In in relation to the modern versus old a lot of the demonization of so-called addition, there is the more controversial perspective. However, this article is modern wheats and veneration of the concept of non-celiac gluten sensitivity focused on just one aspect: gluten. older tall-straw wheats stems from this (NCGS). Even in the clinical world apparent stepwise change that began, in What is gluten? Gluten is a group of this concept has been challenged. North America at least, around the 1960s. seed-storage proteins found in the Alessio Fasano, M.D., of Mass General But reduced-height wheats were around endosperm (floury interior part) of Hospital insists that his evidence for a long time. I have a picture from wheat grains. Wheat includes all types: shows the existence of NCGS. Jessica the 1920s of the Italian wheat breeder, common hard-grained bread wheats, Biesiekierski and Peter Gibson from the Nazareno Strampelli, standing in a field common soft-grained wheats, einkorn, Gastroenterology Department at Monash of mature wheat that comes only up to emmer, spelt, and durum, among others. University in Australia have found “no his belt. Strampelli brought short-straw Gluten-like proteins that are problematic evidence of specific or dose-dependent wheats from Asia, via the Japanese variety, for celiacs are also found in barley and effects of gluten in patients with NCGS” Akakomugi, to Europe around 1918. Also, rye. The gluten-forming proteins in wheat when the patients were fed diets low in it appears that short wheats were around are made up of two types: gliadins and specific types of carbohydrates that are in Korea at least 1,700 years ago1. The glutenins. After the addition of water and fermented by gut bacteria. The Australian most commonly deployed reduced-height mechanical energy to wheat flour, these researchers prefer the term “non-celiac genes are naturally occurring, and they proteins combine to form the functional wheat sensitivity,” because, although have a traceable heritage. For example, gluten that gives wheat flour doughs their some folks may be sensitive to eating

{ 42 } the bread bakers guild of america baking reflections wheat, in their view it may not be the wheats collected from 1863 to 1982. article reflects the state of play. We have gluten. Additionally, even Alessio Fasano’s However, it is important to note that the unanswered questions about gluten, research group has NCGS topping out gliadin types more likely to trigger celiac celiac, NCGS, the gut microbiome, gut at about 6% of the population, a much disease were still present in the older parasites, and immune modulation. No smaller number than the number of varieties, just at lower frequency. They doubt we have suspects, but also in my people who are, for whatever reason, were not absent. Additionally, evidence view, no smoking gun that says: This is the avoiding gluten. that the gliadins in spelt have sequences perpetrator! So much has changed around active in celiac disease shows the celiac us in the last 60 years that maybe we’re Another issue has been the increase in triggering proteins have been around for seeing a perfect storm that predisposes celiac disease itself. It has been shown, a long time. In the glutenins, which are more people to maladies they would with reasonable certainty by Dr. Joseph less associated with celiac disease than have avoided 100 years ago. In case you Murray’s research group at the Mayo the gliadins, there have been systematic think it is just me interpreting the world Clinic, that the increase in celiac disease changes over the last 100 years. A pair of this way, I leave you with these thoughts is not just an increase in diagnoses, but glutenins associated with weaker gluten from Dr. Alessio Fasano: “We also know an actual increase in incidence over the has been systematically replaced in bread that [celiac] prevalence is rising … Based last few decades. Why the increase? wheats with another pair associated with on our study, it seems that prevalence There has been, in my view, a reflexive stronger gluten. So there is evidence that has doubled every 15 years in North response to blame changes in the wheat. the glutenins, at least, have systematically America. Why? I think it goes back to the But what about all the other changes that changed. What that means for celiac microbiome. There are antibiotics, our diet have happened in our environment in the disease and NCGS remains unclear. has changed, we travel more. There have last 50 or 60 years: hygiene, antibiotic been so many changes in the past 50 prevalence, gut microbiome changes, This short article is by no means years.” ✹ among others? What about evidence that comprehensive. That would take a book, other autoimmune disorders, unrelated and the article leaves more questions 1Supplementary list of suggested further to wheat, are also on the increase? And unanswered than answered. For example, reading available on the Guild website for anyway, how much has gluten changed I have not addressed the “processing members. over the last, say, 100 years? hypothesis,” which speculates that short Dr. Andrew Ross is a Professor in the fermentations are the perpetrator of Dr. Hetty Van den Broek and co-workers Departments of Crop & Soil Science and issues with wheat. I don’t subscribe to published evidence that the gliadin types Food Science & Technology at Oregon the processing hypothesis; my evidence more likely to trigger celiac disease were State University. Disclosure of potential is the commonality of un- more frequent in a narrow selection of conflicts of interest: Dr. Ross’ research fermented wheat products wheats from Germany, bred funding comes from wheat growers and throughout the world and since 1980, compared from the milling and baking since antiquity. In my view, to a much more varied industries. the lack of answers in this collection of older

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The Bread Bakers Guild of America , which will be held in Las Vegas, IBIE 2016 Bread Lines Co-Editors Abe Faber Board Chair Nevada, on October 8-11, will cover more than 500,000 Connie Cox Europain France Jeff Yankellow square feet of exhibit space and is expected to bring the Laverne Mau Dicker Jocelyn Figueroa Vice Chair Arielle Giusto entire professional baking community together in record Bread Lines Designer Phyllis Enloe Nicky Giusto Kirsten Finstad numbers. An anticipated 800 exhibiting companies will Amy Halloran Treasurer connect with more than 20,000 baking professionals for Bread Lines Mick Hartley Richard Sperry Managing Editors Brian Hernon four days of business-building interaction. Board of Directors Andy Clark Kathy High Andy Clark Catherine Trujillo IBIE 2016 Every three years, the Baking Expo™ puts you at the Connie Cox Elizabeth Jang Formula Editors Jory Downer center of it all – providing unparalleled access to the tools, Amera Johnson Allen Cohn, Chief Editor Melina Kelson-Podolsky Melina Kelson-Podolsky technologies, and resources you need to maximize your Jerod Pfeffer, Assoc. Editor Sandy Kim-Bernards King Arthur Flour Leslie Mackie baking business’ success. Please visit www.IBIE2016.com to Formula Reviewers James MacGuire Catherine Trujillo learn more. (Current Issue) Manual for Army Amanda Benson Bakers, 1916 Director of Operations Guild members are eligible to Meeghen Eaton Ellie Markovitch Cathy Wayne Eric Guilbert Cat McInroy Administrative Asst receive a discount on registration. Marc Levy Richard Miscovich Jill Valavanis Please contact [email protected] for Patricia Roth Demetrios Monarchos Tel 707.935.1468 more information. Contributors Tracey Muzzolini 707.935.1672 Daniel Acosta Hanna Noel Fax [email protected] Martin Barnett Michael Pappas www.bbga.org Diana Benner John Razi Christian Bernards Andrew Ross Gillian Burgess Sisters of the Monastery of St. Nina’s Proud to Be the Chelsea Green Publishing The material printed Melissa Sperry Coupe du Monde de la in Bread Lines may Stamp Photography Platinum-Level Partner of Boulangerie not be reproduced or Sandra Thielman Derek DeGeer copied without written The Bread Bakers Guild Jeffrey de Leon Catherine Trujillo permission from The Laverne Mau Dicker Andy Wysocki Bread Bakers Guild of of America Mark Dyck Jeff Yankellow America.