Yugoslavia’s Pilgrimage ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Enduring to Hilandar: +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Legacy Serbian Art, - ISSN 1820-8339 1 History and BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 the Divine

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Issue No. 263 Friday, November 23 - Thursday, December 6, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10

SERBIANS STILL hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W CHERISH LONG-GONE June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

YUGOSLAV HOLIDAY page 5

Years after Yugoslavia ceased to exist,

many Serbians retain fond memories conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party of the nationwide celebrations of E Republic Day – and still celebrate it each November 29. Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Ivana NIKOLIC

ida Evstratiev can still among those who celebrated the Re- remember the pride she public Day. felt as the most impor- “November 29 was a nationwide tant state holiday in Jo- joy,” Vida told BIRN. “We children were sip Broz Tito’s Yugoslavia proud and happy to be part of a post- Vwas approaching. war generation, united in one big coun- Each November 29, school children try, under one leader. We were just as across the country would take part in sad when he [Tito] died.” the celebration of Republic Day, mark- Celebrations were prepared weeks ing the day when Tito’s communist-led and even months before the actual day. Partisans met in Jajce (in present-day Vida recalls competitions, academic Bosnia and Herzegovina) to agree on lectures, parades, sporting events, thea- the future and core tenets of post-war tre plays about the Partisans’ fight in the Yugoslavia. war and many other events. The newly-formed state was offi- On the big day, school pupils were cially pronounced in 1945, while its first sworn in as Tito’s Pioneers, got a blue constitution came into effect in Janu- cap, called a “Titovka”, a red scarf and a ary 1946. red Pioneer booklet. Vida, who was born in 1956 in the central Serbian town of Kraljevo, was Continued on page 2

November 29, or Republic Day, celebration at a school in Photo: Wikimedia Commons / Historical Archive in Pirot Pirot in Southern Serbia in 1960s.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA Continued from page 1 Serbia Serbians Still Cherish Long-gone Remains Out Yugoslav Holiday of Line With

e were the gen- erations that wore the red Israel at UN scarf proudly and were very delighted“W to participate in the parades,” Serbia was among the majority of Vida adds. Serbia’s recent countries that voted in favour of the UN November 29 also meant two days resolution, in defiance of US warnings. off and a rich dining table, which invari- UN voting pattern It was also the only country in the ably featured roast lamb or pork. region to support Palestine’s successful “There were even people who did confirms that its bid in 2012 for non-member observer not celebrate their family’s saint’s day status in the UN. [slava] or New Year’s Eve but Republic good bilateral At a November 8 meeting between Day instead. They would prepare lots the chief of Serbian diplomacy, Ivica of food and call over friends and family relations with Dacic, and Palestinian Ambassador members,” Vida says. to Serbia, Mohamed Nabhan, the two She recalls how, after Tito died in May Israel have not sides meanwhile expressed satisfac- 1980, things soon started to change. tion with relations. In the first years following his death, resolved all their “Minister Dacic and Ambassador the nationwide celebrations were still Nabhan expressed satisfaction with held, but this was “due to tradition, not foreign policy the level of relations between the two out of emotion,” Vida explains. Later, countries, with the mutual assessment they lost all meaning and decreased in differences. that there is a space for further develop- scope. ment,” a press release from the Serbian Decades on, Vida still thinks life in Foreign Ministry said. the now defunct country, which broke Maja ZIVANOVIC Similar messages were sent in De- up in the 1990s, was something spe- cember 2017, after the ambassador met cial – and not really easily imagined by ecent voting at the United Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic. younger generations. Nations, at which Serbian “Vucic expressed the unchanged at- “That was a feeling that my children, did not back Israel, show titude of Serbia towards the friendly you and your children, will possibly that good bilateral rela- Palestinian people,” Beta news agency never sense,” she concludes. tions are still marked by reported. Rforeign policy differences. The same report noted that the Pal- REVIVING THE The UN “Special Political and Decolo- estinian ambassador “informed him of GLORY TIMES FOR A DAY nisation Committee” on November 16 the unchangeable decision of the Pal- adopted several resolutions, including estinian state to firmly support the ter- While all the former Yugoslav coun- nine on Israel-Palestinian issues ritorial integrity and sovereignty of Ser- tries stopped celebrating November 29 The committee’s 193 member states bia, as well as to vote in international as a state holiday after Yugoslavia fell passed with overwhelming majorities organizations against the membership apart, Serbia officially marked the day eight texts condemning Israel’s treat- of so-called Kosovo”. until 2002. ment of the Palestinians, urging it to The Israeli embassy to Serbia told However, the eventual decision to cease settlement construction in the BIRN that, despite challenges, Serbia One of the contentious points in Serbian-Isreli relations was highlighted when the Serbian Foreign Photo: Beta Minister Dacic met with his Palestinian counterpart. scrap the holiday did not stop people in West Bank, East Jerusalem, and the Go- and Israel enjoy excellent bilateral rela- Serbia from continuing to celebrate it. lan Heights, and expressing support for tions, and noted that last year the 25th initiatives into a clear political program One of Serbia’s most important roles Stefanovic said relations were very Many would say Belgrade leads in UNRWA, the UN agency dealing with anniversary of the reestablishment of with practical steps aiming at establish- for Israel concerns its relations to the stable, although Serbia finds itself in a this field: in several taverns, or kafanas Pavle Korcagin tavern is trying to keep the memory of SFR Yugoslavia alive through retro memorabilia and celebrations of Yugoslav holidays like November 29. Photo: Courtesy of Korcagin Palestinian refugees. A ninth resolu- diplomatic relations was marked and ing a state based on the right of self- Jewish community and the Holocaust. complicated situation between Israelis in the Serbian capital, you can still feel tion also passed, though with a smaller celebrated. determination for the Jewish people in “Serbia is the only country in the and Palestinians over the Kosovo issue the spirit of communist Yugoslavia – Ziskovic says it has helped to give him when everything was possible,” he con- “Accompanying this side of the story margin. “Each year we are witnessing a its historical homeland”, the embassy world that has introduced the law that because both sides have taken Serbia’s and join in the celebration of important a positive view of the long-gone state. cluded. is ubiquitous capitalist consumerism,” Serbia was among those countries growth in various fields of cooperation. recalled. allows the [Jewish] community to re- part in this dispute. dates. “For a while I was a member of a Spasic said. that voted – but not in favour of Israel. The past of the two nations, Jewish and It noted also that Israeli Prime Min- ceive back the heirless property of Hol- “Both parties did not recognize its The city’s Pavle Korcagin tavern is volunteer organization that cherishes ‘TRENDY FAD’ AND For others again, marking such anni- It abstained from the resolution on Serbian, during the Second World War, ister Benjamin Netanyahu and Serbia’s ocaust victims,” the embassy recalled. independence, for various reasons. one of them. With photos, posters and something like the idea of labour ac- ‘IDEOLOGICAL STATEMENT’ versaries is a political statement, as they the report of the Special Committee to has created a deep solidarity between Vucic have held several bilateral meet- Asked how relations might advance, The Israelis did not do so because they communist slogans all over, it looks like tions – where everyone is more or less FOR THE YOUNG see the defunct country as a role model. Investigate Israeli Practices Affecting the two people,” the embassy said in a ings, the last one in Varna. the embassy mentioned trade, and ex- strongly oppose unilateral acts, such as a mausoleum to the bygone era of com- There is equal, so I can understand to an extent “This concerns a comparatively the Human Rights of the Palestinian written response. However, there have been disagree- plained that Israel and Serbia have not the self-declaration of Kosovo's inde- munist Yugoslavia, to Tito and his com- what it all looked like and how they While the old generations mainly small number of young people in- People and Other Arabs of the Occu- The former Yugoslavia cut off diplo- ments. In August, Israel angered Serbia yet reached their full potential in terms pendence, which is very understanda- rades as well as to the so-called labour a natural lived back then,” he said. honour such anniversaries out of nos- volved in leftist activist groups, who are pied Territories. matic relations with Israel in 1967 after when its military planes participated in of trade exchange. ble given the situation in their relations actions that helped rebuild the new “The idea of such [an equal] society is talgia for a country they remember, it is critical of capitalist, ‘transitional’ devel- On the rest, Serbia voted against Is- the 1967 war between Israel and Arab the celebrations in Croatia of the 1995 “In addition, regional projects that with the Palestinians,” he noted. country after the war. attraction in what is missing nowadays,” the future another question why younger people opments in today’s Serbia,” she said. rael’s stance on Palestine. states. military operation, Operation Storm, include energy and gas are becoming Stefanovic, like another former am- Korcagin, as it is commonly called, pilot added. mark something they never experi- “Although small in numbers, these Relations between Serbia and Is- In 1992, following the breakup of Yu- which crushed rebel Croatian Serbs – more and more relevant and they were bassador to Israel, Krinka Vidakovic will stage its annual celebration of Re- this for a young A party will also take place in anoth- enced in their own lives. groups are important as agents of so- rael are complex, experts told BIRN, goslavia, Serbia renewed relations with who had been helped by the Yugoslav recently discussed thoroughly at the Petrov, also noted that Israel sees the public Day for the 18th time this Novem- er part of the city, at a tavern symboli- Ivana Spasic, a sociology professor at cial critique and as ingredients in the because Serbia finds itself in a compli- Israel. Army and Serbian paramilitaries. gathering of leaders in Varna.” Serbian people as anti-fascist. ber 29 and, slowly but steadily, the staff person. These cally called SFRJ – the acronym for the the Faculty of Philosophy in Belgrade, increasingly embattled pluralism of cated situation between Israel and Pal- Besides historic ties, the embassy Israeli’s participation was con- The embassy added that there are Petrov said an important specificity are getting ready. former Socialist Federative Republic of says different aspects explain such the Serbian public sphere.” estine over Kosovo’s independence – added, Israel seeks to develop the rela- demned by Serbian officials. Vucic told plans to widen cooperation. They include of Israel is in the importance it attaches “On that day, we will serve military activities are Yugoslavia. behaviour. For some of them, she told There is also a question of symbolic which both Israel and Palestine oppose. tionship, putting an emphasis on eco- Netanyahu in a phone conversation on updating several agreements and signing to the Holocaust and the culture of beans and boiled cabbage with meat, They also throw a party each year, BIRN, celebrating Yugoslav holidays “is potency, the professor added, quoting a Israel is, meanwhile, calling on Serbia nomic ties, real estate, IT technologies, August 8 that Serbia felt insulted. new ones on double taxation, customs, memory. free of charge,” the owner, Vojin Cucic, also usually gathering older and younger genera- a sort of fad. comment on social media, arguing that to change its foreign policy and align it- agriculture, water management and Another important field of coopera- agriculture, innovation and culture. In Israel, “the Serbian people enjoy told BIRN. tions for portions of beans, brine, boiled “There is something ’trendy’ about few Serbians know why February 15, self more closely to Israel. energy. tion, the embassy noted, is investment the respect they deserve,” Krinka said. “We are always filled to capacity that quite fun and wine and rakija – fruit brandy. Partisan doing things that are clearly so ‘old- Statehood Day, or November 11, Armi- Its embassy in Serbia told BIRN it is The embassy also explained that of Israeli companies, and in tourism. BELGRADE SEEKS GOOD TIES The Croatian fascist wartime death day. Our guests are aged from eight to songs as well as Yugoslav pop-rock mu- fashioned’ and at odds with the domi- stice Day, are even celebrated. aware of the differences between the current relations include cooperation The embassy underlined that one of TO PALESTINIANS AS WELL: camp at Jasenovac was “a symbol of 88,” Cucic said, adding the most numer- do not involve sic are a must. nant political discourse and iconogra- In the former Yugoslavia, everyone two countries, and underlined that between various ministries, parliamen- the most frequent subjects for coopera- the suffering of both peoples during the ous foreign guests come from Slovenia. Apart from Belgrade’s kafanas, Ser- phy. In this way, you show you’re ‘in the knew what November 29 represented. “great bilateral relations” are not always tary groups, experts and other stake- tion is in the field of innovation. Former Ambassador to Israel Mirko time of fascism and the Ustasha time in Asked what brings people to cel- bia’s Communist Party leader, Tito’s know’, do not belong to the masses, and Spasic said the current ignorance is reflected in Serbia’s voting in the UN. holders. “Israel is known to be one of the most Stefanovic said economic co-operation the Yugoslav territories,” she told BIRN. ebrate a long defunct state, Cucic said, any risks. You grandson, Josip Joska Broz, told BIRN do things differently. because Serbia, in some senses, is not a “In general, we have seen a small “The recent visit of the President advanced countries when it comes to between two states was constantly ris- She underlined that it is important simply: “Yugonostalgia.” that they also celebrate the much- “There is a natural attraction in this finished state. shift, especially from countries within of Israel to Serbia was an example of the IT technologies. We believe that ing, and relies mostly on Israeli real es- for Serbia that Israel did not recognize Pilot academy student Nemanja Zisk- just have a good missed holiday. for a young person. These activities “These dates have not yet become this area when it comes to the voting in good relations and included a political we can only benefit from sharing the tate investment, such as building shop- Kosovo. ovic, aged 29, will most probably come Broz said more than 30 towns and are also usually quite fun and do not part of people’s everyday, self-evident the UN and we hope to see a change in dialogue and a symbolic act of naming knowledge and know how,” it said. ping centers, hotels, business buildings “Diplomatic relations are between to Korcagin on November 29 – partly time. cities across Serbia are staging their involve any risks. You just have a good knowledge – and maybe they never Serbia’s attitude, too,” the embassy said. a street in Zemun after Theodor Herzl, The embassy noted that Israel works and apartments. political pragmatism and historical out of curiosity. own celebrations, to commemorate time,” she told BIRN. will, given the continuing turmoil in The November 16 vote was not the visionary of the State of Israel, whose with all countries to fight political ex- “The Israelis are the largest investors closeness, so in the range between “I think I came by accident with some those “better and happier times.” However, Spasic said that is just Serbia’s political life.” first time Serbia did not back Israel at family arrived from there,” it said. tremism and prevent potential terror in our country, when we look at the to- these two poles, both countries have friends some six years ago. We were Tito’s grandson also claims that com- one side of the story. While the young Perhaps by celebrating the Day of the UN. Herzl’s grand-parents were born in attacks. Recently, it said, more and tal value of investments – over one bil- convergence points, which does not ex- welcomed with a free portion of beans munist ideas are coming back, with may come for fun and to be on trend, a deceased republic, people “express Balkan countries voted in different Serbia. more countries, including Serbia, are lion dollars,” Stefanovic explained. clude points of divergence on certain and great atmosphere,” he recalled. more and more younger people joining for other actors, such as restaurant their craving for the reassuring clarity ways in a UN assembly resolution in He was the founder of Zionism and finding Israeli expertise very valuable. However, he noted, trade between issues,” she said. In the years that followed, he became such celebrations, as well as the Com- and café owners, “it pays off to spur of the past, for a more stable and reli- December 2017, when most countries chairman of the first Zionist Congress, “This allows countries like Serbia to the two countries has not developed She noted that Serbia had not recog- a regular, one of many young people munist Party itself. an interest in memories of Yugosla- able framework in their individual and urged the United States to rescind its which took place in Basel 120 years ago. intensify cooperation and to expand enough. This year it is worth about $50 nized Jerusalem as the capital of Israel who come to get a feel for how life in Ivana Spasic “They have realized that those were via, because it is something they can collective lives which is now so sorely recognition of Jerusalem as Israel's He promoted the Zionist idea and it to related fields, for example in fight million. He said it was a priority area to as Belgrade believed this issue should Tito’s Yugoslavia was like. Sociologist the times when we were all equal, and sell. missing,” Spasic concluded. capital. “conceptualized different visions and against cyber threats.” which more attention should be paid. be resolved in future negotiations. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Three-Day NYE Party Announced New Alternative The President of the City Assembly, Nikola Nikodijevic, Illuminations said on November 19 that the City will organise a three-day- Cause Fresh Sparks Tours Prove Hit celebration, kicking off on December 30. “We designed in Capital the program so that Decem- in brief Belgrade With Belgrade ber 30 is a day for DJs aimed The decision to spend However, many have criticized the at younger generations, on around 250,000 euros on new items as costly and unnecessary, December 31 there will be with some also alleging corruption and the biggest stars that attract new additions to the New other wrongdoing. Visitors the most audiences, while Year street decorations The Belgrade-based web portal on January 1 we will have a has once again ignited an Pistaljka (Whistle), which investigates concert of classical music,” corruption and other abuses in public Controversial holiday decorations in Belgrade were lit up on November 15. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Forget old forts and ART FOR STREET Nikodijevic told the media. He angry debate. and private institutions, claims the bid ARTS’S SAKE: added that the exact roster of was “discriminatory” and was designed CONTESTED drawing an avalanche of criticism. The churches: from names would be published in for one company only, which would be DECORATIVE HISTORY then mayor, Sinisa Mali, said he saw hipster coffee shops Most big European cities now of- about two weeks’ time. Like Ivana NIKOLIC illegal. nothing wrong in making an early start. fers street art tours, and Belgrade is no every year, programmes organ- The company that got the job, as The decision to put up New Year dec- He maintained that, as a European to underground exception. But while many organisers ised by the City will be free of n the coming days, the City of Bel- the only bid participant, Keep Light orations in mid-September had already metropolis, Belgrade had to be compet- now offer street art tours, this tour is charge. grade’s Secretariat for defence, Illuminations, came under public angered many people, and both Twit- itive and start early. tunnels, a growing unique because a group of Belgrade Iemergency situations, communica- scrutiny last year as well, after the ter and Facebook were flooded with Media reports say that from 2014 to number of visitors street artists and street art lovers have Science Fest Focuses tion and coordination of relations with city purchased a pricey 83,000-euros negative comments and mockery. 2018, the City of Belgrade has vastly organised it themselves. “All of us who on Earth’s Future citizens is to buy 300 new illuminative Christmas tree from it, as well as spend- “New Year decoration of Belgrade increased its spending on New Year want to see – and were involved in this project closely fol- ornaments for around 250,000 euros. ing another 200,000 euros on other kicks off. So it means New Year is com- decorations from 3 million dinars low both the local and the global street Under the slogan “Future It announced a public procurement decorations. ing in October,” one social media user [around €25,000] to 40 million dinars are getting – art scenes. We wanted to offer some- Earth”, the much-loved Science for the purchase of “decorative ele- After Pistaljka disclosed that the tree tweeted. “Belgraders, I wish you a mer- [€340,000]. different views of thing similar in Belgrade,” one of the Festival returns for the 12th ments for manifestations” in July, argu- was put up before the bid was even ry New Year’s decoration in Septem- The money was also the subject of street artists and creators of the tour time from November 29 until ing that new ornaments were needed closed, the contract was terminated ber,” another added. harsh debates in public and in the lo- Serbia’s capital. explains. December 2. Taking place at for a number of outdoor events across and Keep Light Illuminations donated City officials defended the idea, how- cal assembly, with opposition party “We have four different options. The Belgrade Fair, halls 3, 3a and Belgrade that the local administration the tree to the city for free. ever, arguing that decorations are an members asking whether so many first goes through the trendy Sava- 5, the festival will gather more finances. An article on Pistaljka’s website, important investment in tourism. ornaments were necessary, adding Isadora EVERTS mala neighborhood, and the second is than 600 scientists from Serbia Although the local administration published on November 14, argued the Deputy Mayor Goran Vesic responded the capital should invest in schools, through Dorcol, one of the city’s oldest and abroad, with the aim of has not officially said what it will put tender was “discriminatory due to the to the criticism by claiming that most of kindergartens and hospitals instead. s alternative culture neighborhoods.” showcasing what the Earth will up, media have reported that three il- detailed descriptions of the ordered fig- those opposed to the new decorations Some also alleged corruption and other grows, the past few A third option includes a visit to look like in the coming dec- luminated trees, 35 flower bouquets, ures, unjustifiably rigorous conditions were those who lost the last elections. wrongdoing. years have seen massive Ciglana, an abandoned factory-turned- ades. Tickets cost 500 dinars dozens of single flowers, decorations in and very short delivery deadlines”. However, this is not the first time the BIRN asked the Deputy Mayor and growth in experiential artists’ colony just outside the city cen- [around 4.2 euros] and can be the colours of the Serbian flag as well as Pistaljka claimed also that Keep Light city put up end-of-the-year decorations the Secretariat responsible for the lat- tourism. This is affect- tre. Finally, there is the option of attend- bought at Belgrade Fair itself or 90 pieces of illuminated rain are to be Illuminations was “famous for illegal in September. est purchase to respond to these con- ingA Serbia, too. Although visitors to Bel- ing a street art workshop and learning via Eventim sales points across added to the existing decorations put and lucrative deals with New Year light- Last year, the decorations also went cerns, but did not receive a reply by the grade will always flock to Kalemegdan, the basics of this creative process. Belgrade. For more information up in streets and squares. ing in Belgrade.” up at the end of September as well, also time of publication. the fortress and Knez Mihailova Street, “We started this tour at the beginning visit: www.festivalnauke.org. many are now interested in experienc- of 2017. The idea materialised because Hipster tours of Belgrade show the city’s trendy side. Photo: Courtesy of Still in Belgrade Tours ing trendier aspects of city life, such as we all felt that Belgrade’s street art Capital to Get New hip hangouts, authentic local restau- scene is extremely varied and unique Foodie Hub Exhibition Marks Centenary of Birth of Yugoslavia rants, abandoned factories, the street to this city, and there are many interest- art scene, river rafts, cool cafés and pubs. ing stories behind the art itself,” one of The Belgrade Market – urban Documents, photographs The state formed in 1918 is also usually 100 anniversary of the First Serbian Upris- main events that followed, up until the Tour organisers are launching numer- the founders says. distillery, food and design and personal belongings referred to as the “first Yugoslavia”, sepa- ing against the Ottoman Turks in 1804. Both outbreak of the Second World War, the ous tours to cater to these visitors, and “We went on the Savamala tour with district – opens on November will go on display at rating it from the new, federal communist- of these events, the organisers say, were symbolic end of the first Yugoslavia,” the here is just a selection of what’s offered. an expert guide,” one foreign tourist 28 at 6pm at Dorcol’s Zorza run Yugoslav state formed after World significant for the idea of Slavic unification, organisers note. says. “It was very interesting because Klemansoa 19. Occupying the Palace of Serbia, War II. which was finally realised 14 years later. At the exhibition, visitors can see WALK ROUND she talked to us about all the urban around 1,000 square metres, commemorating a century Organisers say the main goal of the ex- “The exhibition then follows the period key archive documents, posters, photo- TOWN LIKE A HIPSTER: transformations that are taking place the venue consists of restau- since the first Yugoslav hibition is “to pass on to audiences the cir- of the First World War through the prism graphs, paintings, sculptures, personal in that part of the city and that, in some rants, florists, craft brewers, state was founded in 1918. cumstances surrounding the emergence of the unification struggle, focusing on belongings, medals and weapons from Created in 2016 by two women from cases, influenced the artists’ work. It an urban distillery, design of a state that lasted as much as an aver- the war aims of the government of Serbia, the period. Belgrade, the Hipster Walking Tour has gave the participants a complete over- shops and bars. At the market, Ivana NIKOLIC age man’s life. the activities of the Yugoslav Committee They have been lent by a number of pri- quickly become a bestseller and trade- view of the situation.” which aims “to promote local “The exhibition explains the emer- [formed by southern Slavs from Austria- vate collectors as well as by around 20 do- mark of Still in Belgrade Tours. This creativity and enrich Belgrade’s he Museum of Yugoslavia’s exhi- gence of Yugoslavia as an act that preced- Hungary during World War I, aimed at mestic and regional institutions, such as Na- tour offers a mix of history, street art, ar- For more information, visit: tourist offer”, you can purchase bition, “Day Worthy of a Century” ed long-standing advocacy by cultural uniting them into a one state] and the tional Museum of Serbia, Yugoslav Archives, chitecture and contemporary culture, streetuptours.com and sample food, drinks and T(“Dan Vredan Veka”), opens on De- and intellectual elites for the unification great powers’ attitude towards the Yugo- National Library of Serbia, The Museum of and encompasses visits to art centres, other handmade products at cember 1 at the Palace of Serbia (former of the southern Slavs.” slav issue,” the organisers say. Arts and Crafts in Zagreb, the Croatian His- revitalized industrial zones, craft beer SNACK LIKE A SERB ON THE promotional prices. Besides SIV I) in New Belgrade, marking the day It emphasises, also, how much the vi- Although the exhibition’s backbone tory Museum and the Ljubljana-based Na- pubs and cafés. FOOD AND CULTURE TRAIL: being a place where people can when the Kingdom of Croats, Serbs and sion to create the new Yugoslav state dif- is the act of proclamation of unification, tional Museum of Contemporary History. “We began writing the Still in Bel- enjoy their free time, the Bel- Slovenes was formed in 1918 under Ser- fered among the various interest groups, “Day Worthy of a Century” ends with the grade blog in 2013 with the aim of pro- “The idea for this tour material- grade Market will be organising bia’s royal Karadjordjevic dynasty. and over different periods, the organisers year 1921 when Yugoslavia’s first constitu- The exhibition lasts until April 28, 2019 moting contemporary culture from our ised slowly,” explains Jovana, one of various corporate-style events, However, the term Yugoslavia was added. tion, the St Vitus Day, or Vidovdan Consti- and visits will be on weekends only. point of view. In 2015, we started our the leaders of Food and Culture Tour such as team building sessions, much more widely used than Kingdom of The exhibition takes visitors back to tution, was approved on June 28. Visitors will have to register online due first three walking tours for the read- Belgrade. “We were all working in the meetings and promotions. For Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, and, in Octo- 1904, when two significant events were cel- “Although this year was chosen to to the Palace of Serbia’s special procedures. ers of our blog and visitors who wanted tourism industry and following global more information, visit: www. ber 1929, its name was officially changed ebrated with great fanfare: the coronation of end the exhibition with, visitors are left For more information visit something different from conventional trends, and one of the most obvious beogradskimarket.com. to Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Petar I Karadjordjevic in Belgrade and the with the opportunity to explore the www.muzej-jugoslavije.org. . tourist tours with large groups and too trends was the growth of experiential much historical information, which is tourism. We did a lot of preparation quickly forgotten,” explains Dragana and over six months of research before Kostica, editor-in-chief of the blog and we started.” Food and culture tours are acquainting visitors to Belgrade’s food scene. Photo: Courtesy of Food and Culture Tours Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR one of the tour’s founders: “Our motto They finally decided to combine +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] is: be a local, not a tourist.” food and culture. But, because gastro- recipe and offers a large variety of both dan park. It only recently opened to the “I was born here and lived here my Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight As part of the walking tour, visitors nomical tours already existed, they cre- sweet and salty dumplings.” Another public. The well-known journalist and entire life, but this is the first time I’ve drink authentic coffee at Przionica (Do- ated a small, interactive tour on which tradition that guests find fascinating researcher Zoran Nikolic, who has pub- walked down all these steps in sneak- bracina 59) coffee shop and sample ar- guests go to carefully selected places is “future-telling”, from Turkish coffee lished numerous books on Belgrade’s ers instead of high heels,” laughs local tisan-style ice cream at either Moritz or for coffee, appetizers, lunch, rakia and grinds. “We explain that it’s all just fun, hidden underground, has created visitor Iva as she navigates the winding HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU Crna Ovca ice cream shops, which can be ice cream in different, traditional places but they seriously get into it, some- these tours. Personally, he only leads stone steps on the underground tour. “I Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL found at select locations throughout the around the city. times talking about their ‘futures’ long tours in Serbian, so he recommends his used to come to Barutana every week- Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 city. It is all part of the local experience. “Most of our clients already know into the tour!” colleagues at Boreas Travel to English- end, and I had no idea that it had any HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Belgrade’s architecture and street art something about Serbian history, and This tour has three options, from two speaking visitors. historical significance.” Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU are especially interesting to foreigners are very interested in everything we to six hours. All the options include The tour begins at the Roman well “We started this tour five years ago, Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA on first-time visits to the capital city, talk about, whether it is culture or tra- both Turkish coffee and Ferdinand Kn- and moves on to Tito’s military bunker, and interest has been constant,” one CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 Kostica says: “Our customers really dition or the basic mentality,” Jovana edle! built in 1948 to defend against a feared of the organisers at Boreas Travel says. Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF like GTR’s black and white murals of says. At the end of the tour, guests re- attack by the Soviet military. This bun- “Sometimes we have over 30 peo- Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE famous [football club] Partizan heroes ceive a souvenir booklet with recipes For more information, visit: ker is complete with secret passages, ple, sometimes far fewer. It usually Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 in Dorcol, and TKV's stencil art. They and the names of the places they have foodtourbelgrade.com tunnels and stairwells. The third point depends on the season; the summer Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST are also very impressed by the whole seen, detailing their experience. on the map is Barutana, a large gun- months are popular with larger groups. MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA artistic Dorcol Platz area.” The tour of- “One of the things our guests love SEE BELGRADE FROM powder warehouse where real Roman We offer many other tours, as well. Zlati- HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 fers several options, ranging from two best is traditional Serbian homemade THE UNDERSIDE: sarcophagi line the walls. From 1995 to bor mountain has been one of the most Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 to four hours. plum dumplings, which we take them 2003, Barutana was a famous nightclub popular choices for foreigners.” HILTON BELGRADE to eat at Ferdinand Knedle (Gavrila Many people, even locals, don’t that hosted numerous local and inter- Address: Kralja Milana 35 For more information, visit: Principa 58),” says Jovana. “This place know that a mysterious underground national musicians. This is what most For more information, visit: stillinbelgrade.com. has modernized a traditional Serbian world lies hidden beneath Kalemeg- locals know of “underground Belgrade”. boreastravel.rs. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbia Says Abolishing Roaming Charges Will Take Years

mission in June, it has lowered roaming Despite a fresh fees among the signatory states in the EU push for the region. But while the Serbian mobile net- Balkans to scrap work operators Telenor, VIP and MTS now offer lower roaming fees for neigh- charges, Serbian bouring Montenegro, Bosnia and Her- zegovina and Macedonia, prices in the minister warns that region are still high in comparison to abolishing roaming the European Union, which abolished roaming charges among its member fees in the Western states in June last year, after nearly a decade of planning and negotiating Balkans will take a with network operators. The average price for outgoing calls couple more years among the countries of the regional – at least. roaming agreement is 28 dinars per minute, while the price of a text mes- sage is 9 dinars. Fees for data roaming Mitjo VAULASVIRTA for Serbian network operators aver- age 3 dinars for 100 kilobits; watching eople in the Western Balkans ten minutes of YouTube at an average will have to wait at least until video quality at that price costs users the summer of 2021 for free about 1,200 dinars, or ten euros. Proaming, Serbia’s Minister of Ljajic’s recent remarks come as Trade, Tourism and Telecommunica- the EU increases pressure for a cut in Rasim Ljajic, Serbian Minister of Trade, Tourism and Telecommunications. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade tions, Rasim Ljajic, told Novosti news- roaming fees in the region. The Com- paper in mid-November, indicating an- missioner for Digital Economy and So- sonally benefitted from the abolition alongside cybersecurity, connectivity province, whose independence Serbia other delay in the years-long push by ciety, Mariya Gabriel, told the Western of roaming charges; the Commission and research. contests. Western Balkan governments to scrap Balkans Digital Summit in April that hopes to replicate this success in the While EU officials including Commis- According to Ljajic, abolishing roam- roaming fees in the region. lowering roaming charges was her first Western Balkans. sioner Gabriel have expressed interest ing fees within the existing agreement Bosnia, Serbia, Montenegro and priority in the region. In June, the EU launched the Digital in including Albania and Kosovo into between Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia Macedonia signed a regional roaming The EU policy on this matter, “roam Agenda for the Western Balkans, which the existing regional roaming agree- and Herzegovina and Macedonia will agreement in Budva, Montenegro, in like at home”, has proved popular plans to facilitate the region’s transition ment, Ljajic said that extending the also take another 2 and a half years. September 2014. across Europe. A Eurobarometer sur- into a digital economy and stimulate agreement to Kosovo would present a Including Albania and Kosovo into the According to a staff working docu- vey published in June found that near- economic growth. It enumerated lower political predicament for Serbia, given agreement could delay the process be- ment released by the European Com- ly 50 per cent of Europeans have per- roaming charges as a key focus area, the unresolved status of the former yond 2021, he warned.

“Let’s protect Brotherhood and Unity like pupils of our eyes”, a socialist-era motto, on a building in Mostar. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/ Antidiskriminator Kosovo Hikes Taxes on Serbian, Bosnian Goods

“Nobody can sell their products in Kosovo Prime Kosovo and, at the same time, forbid Yugoslavia’s Enduring Minister our products from being sold in their markets. This is a reciprocal relation supported and we insist that this should be re- spected,” Shala said. Legacy increasing taxes Haradinaj said he supported the new measures. “Kosovo has been blocked on imports from for a long time and … CEFTA [the region- would have been better without all the 1918 in Belgrade, certainly did not solve Maybe, its bloated bureaucracy and ening: they show how difficult it is al free trade agreement] is not function- 100 years since its destruction and hate, although that all their varied problems. But it gave one party system would mean it would to forge a common identity without Serbia and Bosnia ing between Kosovo and Serbia, so I birth, the former may have a lot to do with the fact that them a stronger voice on the world have been plagued by the same prob- a common enemy and contain dire support the proposal,” he said. I was born in Belgrade, a city which stage and arguably served their inter- lems Serbia is facing now, and become warnings that a focus on (ethnic) griev- from 10 to 100 per The European Union criticised the Yugoslavia offers greatly benefited from Yugoslavia’s ex- ests better than any other option on the a system where cronyism and incom- ances in the hands of political oppor- cent – a day after tax imposed by Kosovo on November istence, and my generally pro-Yugoslav table back then. petence are choking talent, creativity tunists leads to hate and destruction. 6 and asked the authorities to abolish it. valuable lessons upbringing. Without Yugoslavia, my This mix, energised - and ultimately and even justice. Others are more hopeful: Yugosla- Serbia hailed the But the government has declined to great-grandparents, who lived between destroyed - by the tectonic pressures After all, as evidenced by its implo- via’s rapid modernisation in the 60s do so, saying it imposed the new tariffs for multicultural three four states before the First World of cultural and political blocs to its east sion, Yugoslavia had many downsides and 70s - and generous social pro- failure of its bid to on products from Serbia and Bosnia war, would have probably never met and west, created a unique world view and systemic faults. The idealised ac- grammes - show how it is possible to for their “negative behaviour towards societies across each other and lived more or less hap- best seen in its art and architecture. count of the country should probably transform the lives of people on the join Interpol. Kosovo”. Neither country recognises py, if erratic lives. Without Yugoslavia – or at least the idea stay in the realm of nostalgic trinkets. brink of poverty and create a thriving Kosovo's independence. the globe. Still, even acknowledging my biases, of it - there would none of the graceful On the other hand, anti-Yugoslav fa- middle class. It also shows that despite Kosovo's Trade and Industry Min- I cannot but think that Yugoslavia is monumentalism of Ivan Mestrovic’s bles such as those regularly conjured three decades of state sponsored hate istry said that imports from Serbia Srdjan GARCEVIC an easy country to romanticise. Not sculptures, no layered prose of Ivo An- by opportunistic ultra-nationalist poli- and propaganda, many people in ex- Perparim ISUFI and Bosnia and Herzegovina had de- only did it have some of Europe’s most dric and certainly none of the ingen- ticians about it being a place where Yugoslav states feel close to each other creased by 50 per cent since the new very once in a while, I per- beautiful landscapes within its borders, ious high modernist architecture that you could not utter your ethnicity and more or less happily partake in n November 21, Ko- tax came into force. form the mental exercise from Lake Bled to the Iron Gates of the is currently exhibited and admired in or religion should be relegated to the each other’s culture. sovo Prime Minister Ra- Ministry spokesperson Elhami Is- of imagining what my life Danube, but it was also an intrinsically New York’s MoMA. scrap heap. Even though Yugoslavia can now mush Haradinaj said he maili said the ministry wanted the would have been like if Yu- multicultural experiment from the Still, I cannot claim for certain that Still, I am surprised by how little of- only exist in escapist musings, its backed a call by Trade measure kept in place “because Ser- goslavia continued to exist. outset, with people of numerous faiths, had Yugoslavia continued to exist, in ficial attention across the region and legacy - 100 years since its birth - is all and Industry Minister bia and Bosnia are damaging Kosovo's EIn these futile, escapist exercises, I ethnicities and languages trying to pur- its socialist form, I would not have been abroad is paid to the centenary of Yu- around us and the more we are aware EndritO Shala for the country to sharply initiatives to join international mecha- imagine my life free both of the trau- sue a common goal. one of the people raging against it. May- goslavia’s birth. The Yugoslav experi- of it, hopefully the more of its mistakes increase taxes on Serbian and Bosnian nisms. mas of my childhood – sanctions, hy- This is all the more valuable when be I would have been enraged by the ment, which ultimately died 12 years we can avoid. imports from 10 per cent, as imposed “These two countries do political perinflation, bombing – and current you consider that most of those people inequality between its regions and peo- ago when Montenegro split from its on November 6, to 100 per cent. and economic damage to Kosovo, even ones, caused by living in what seems, at were, for centuries, left on the peripher- ples, the blind spots of its official narra- union with Serbia, is a treasure trove of Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a Haradinaj said the tax hike would jeopardising its statehood,” he told Kosovo’s PM Ramush Haradinaj supported the increase, despite EU protestations. Photo: AP Photo/Ronald Zak best, a politically rudderless and down- ies of the empires that ruled over them tive or the iron grip the political lead- insights. Many of them are invaluable founder of The Nutshell Times blog. come into effect immediately and all BIRN. beat region, where the idea of visionary and, when not taxed or starved, were ership kept on the press and debates. for political projects like the European government institutions would have to Kosovo Customs spokesperson Adri- 15, of which 270,000 euros came from ship of the CEFTA free-trade agreement – support of two-thirds of Interpol’s 192 political projects of any kind seems im- used as cannon fodder for the interests Maybe its stranger features, like the per- Union and increasingly multicultural The opinions expressed in the Com- take note of it. atik Stavileci said the state had collect- Serbian products and 30,000 euros but the government has resisted interna- member states to join the International possibly distant. of far-away feudal elites. sonality cult of Tito, with the full force societies around the world. ment section are those of the authors Shala said that Kosovo was still being ed 300,000 euros from the “protective from Bosnian imports. tional pressure to rescind the measures. Criminal Police Organisation at its gen- Needless to say, I instinctively im- Their decision to unite after the hor- of the state behind it would not seem Some of the lessons one can draw only and do not necessarily re ect the treated “unequally” in regional markets fiscal measure” imposed on products Pristina’s decision to impose tariffs The latest announcement came one eral assembly in Dubai on November 20, agine things in that alternate reality rors of World War One, on December 1, just kooky, but bizarre and annoying. from Yugoslavia’s history are disheart- views of BIRN. by Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. from Serbia and Bosnia by November was criticised for violating its member- day after Kosovo failed to secure the which it credited to Serbian lobbying. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 9 REGION FACES About town with… Kisobran: Belgrade Indie Kids Bosnia’s and a ‘Bubble of Creativity’ NIKOLA MILOVIC

Nikola Milovic is a hotel- Absurdist ier and a connoisseur of Belgrade who regularly keeps up with the cool Tale of Two places in the city on Instagram. Sarajevos MORNING

The best way to start the day, explore the city or Bosnia and when the state-level Constitutional Court declared recharge, is to walk. You would be it unconstitutional for favouring only one of the amazed at how many little corners, back- three main ethnic groups in the country. streets, new lovely spots, one can discover… Herzegovina has two All the state institutions, such as the tripartite The wide boulevards, nature, parks and riv- state presidency, are located in Sarajevo, but after erbanks of New Belgrade and Zemun make Sarajevos - one the winning the Serbian seat on the state presidency, me fall for the Fall and the almost winterish Milorad Dodik announced in October that he will and festive atmosphere. To get a boost for capital of the state, not be working in the capital, but at another building the stroll and get my first morning coffee and in East Sarajevo. the other called East pastry, I like to visit magnificent and cozy Gos- podja Mirkov ( 22. Oktobra 51, Zemun) and the DUMPSTER ORIENTEERING lovely Cafeteria Gardos (Zemunski Kej). Since Beside Kisobran, Radojkovic and Ojkic are also running Zaokret and Sprat bars, Photo: Courtesy of Marko Radojkovic and Ivan Ojkic Sarajevo, which is which promote Belgrade’s alternative scene. all the buzz is across the river, in the very heart Matic said that many people from East Sarajevo the capital of its Serb- of the city, I like to have breakfast at Savama- work in the city of Sarajevo and commute to the selves: so Kisobran created a bubble for a “The two of us prioritised this side of la's new gem, Bistro Mali Pijac (Karadjordjeva capital on a daily basis. As the cult indie few hundred people… and thorough the our lives over studies or other careers: dominated entity 61). Having eggs Benedict in a century-old Meanwhile many Sarajevans often find East Sara- years we grew up together,” Radojkovic we didn’t see it as a hobby. I always had building is an experience to savour. night turns 10, Kiso- Republika Srpska jevo cheaper than Sarajevo so they will visit its bars explains. higher expectations… and didn’t do it or restaurants. bran’s ‘informal As both Radojkovic and Ojkic are just for myself,” Radojkovic explains, for - with no visible “Here in East Sarajevo you will find those who AFTERNOON quick to point out, they were not part of Ojkic to conclude: “From the start we ap- work in Sarajevo but they will rent an apartment leaders’ explain Kisobran at the very beginning: it was proached it as work, but just without the boundary between here since it is a cheaper, and that is positive side of Ojkic’s elder brother, Goran, who joined money.” Belgrade is full of surprises, ongoing ex- having two towns like this,” Matic said. how it created a forces with several other like-minded Now in their early thirties, Belgrade’s them. But there are also some absurdities. The adminis- hibitions, festivals, markets – so all my DJs who separately only drew in a few high priests of indie are adamant about trative boundaries of the Federation and Republika A view over Sarajevo. Photo: Pixabay/ Rusmir Gadzo daydreams become reality when I head to unique creative dozen people a night. As Ojkic explains, continuing. Although there are fewer Srpska, drawn up under the 1995 Dayton agreement, Kosancicev and Toplicin venac. My after- the idea was to create a loose confedera- Kisobran-branded activities compared Mladen LAKIC as well as boundaries of Sarajevo and East Sarajevo, noon is set aside for cultural activities, lunch community in the tion of like-minded people under a sin- to a few years ago, there is still a lot going have in some cases left one side of a road in the capi- and quality shopping. Ideally, I either seek gle brand to try to draw in larger crowds. on in the community. The Zaokret café t looks like an ordinary Bosnian street, except tal and the other side in the Serb-dominated city. a perfect souvenir at Remake (Kneza Sime city. The plan was a success after a few has expanded one floor above to Sprat, a that one part of it is called Srpskih Vladara “Try to explain to anyone how is it possible that Markoviva 10) and Makadam (Kosancicev years. Kisobran - ‘Umbrella’ in English - craft-beer focused tap room, and Radojk- and the other part is called Bulevar Mimara one side of the street is in Sarajevo and other is not, venac 20), or have lunch overlooking the mushroomed and drew in thousands ovic occasionally performs and records Sinana. like you have in [the neighbourhood of] Dobrinja; so boats passing by in a relatively new addition Srdjan GARCEVIC of revellers to its big parties. However, heart-felt songs on the ukulele as part of On November 21 on Srpskih Vladara, peo- close and still divided,” Sarajevo resident Alma Gijo to Beton hall, with small fish bites, at Fishi- the focus has always been less on the his side project Benjd (a pun on the word Iple will mark the Statehood Day holiday. But on told BIRN. zelenish (Karadjordjeva 2-4). I always make here are few DJ nights that crowds than on a special aesthetic. ‘band’). Bulevar Mimara Sinana, they won’t mark Statehood Her friend Melisa Omerbasic, a 23-year-old stu- sure to leave space for a dessert. I also make inspire fierce loyalty in Bel- “We never intended for it to be a mass They have witnessed much change Day until November 25. dent, explained that sometimes one has to read sure to stop by Fino Vino wine shop (Pop grade like Kisobran, an in- party: I always wanted it to be for 300 since starting out 10 years ago and note Why? Because Bulevar Mimara Sinana is offi- what is written on the municipal dumpsters to work Lukina 6) – you will see why later on. My next die party which celebrates people who all love the songs that I love. that the boundaries between different cially in the City of Sarajevo, which lies in the Bos- out which Sarajevo one is in. stop is Maskot ties (Nusiceva) 25, because a turning 10 on December There were personalised tickets, custom musical crowds in Belgrade are more niak-and Croat-dominated Federation entity, while “Look, there you have one on which Sarajevo is perfect new coat handkerchief is a must for T1 with a big bash at Drugstore. This is created VJ sets and stages. It was our porous and there is less sense of an ‘in- Srpskih Vladara is in East Sarajevo, which is in the written, so it means the street is in Sarajevo, but on a great evening. If I do not have time to go to partly because ever since its humble way to show and do something differ- die kid’ identity in Belgrade. These days, Serb-dominated Republika Srpska. Bosnia’s ethnic the other side it is East Sarajevo,” Omerbasic said. the market, I buy chestnuts at Knez Mihailova beginnings, when it drew only a couple ent,” Ojkic explains. young clubbers could go to Kisobran groups and their political leaders are still unable or But there also invisible but more serious political street and have a coffee break at Café Amelie of hundred guitar music fans, Kisobran This approach drew in not only many and a turbofolk party on the same night. unwilling to agree on common national holidays, so division between the two Sarajevos, like the dispute (Toplicin venac 6) or Booka (Cara Lazara 12) has always been more than just a party fans but also dozens of collaborators Thanks to greater global connectivity, they mark them on different days. over Statehood Day. with some quality reads. I like to see what’s where you could lose yourself to the Arc- from Belgrade’s creative circles – design- teenagers growing up in Atlanta, Bright- Visually, it’s hard to tell the difference as you’re Sarajevo and the rest of the Federation entity showing at the Museum of Applied Arts, and tic Monkeys, Arcade Fire, Mac DeMarco, ers, musicians and visual artists – who on and Belgrade have access to the same walking down the street itself; only the signs saying marks Statehood Day on November 25, commemo- have a well-deserved ruby chocolate dessert The xx and other bands beloved by chipped in with their works and ideas. music and culture at the same time, and “Welcome to Republika Srpska” and “Sarajevo Can- rating the day in 1943 on which the Anti-Fascist in Mandarina cake shop (Gracanicka 16) Pitchfork’s snooty critics. It is also much Ojkic stresses the importance of ‘dif- consequently there is less sense of dis- ton” suggest that there is an administrative bound- Council for the National Liberation of Bosnia and more than a place where Belgrade’s artsy ferent sensibilities’ within the Kisobran covery and wonder about music. Lastly, ary between two separate cities. Herzegovina declared Bosnia and Herzegovina to be kids of all stripes come to be themselves, collective for its success: “We created guitar music is almost dead, while trap “It is always interesting to explain, or try to ex- an equal community of Bosniaks, Croats and Serbs. EVENING in the most disinhibited way possible. different activities: photo workshops, currently dominates the urban under- plain, to my foreign friends the meaning of the But Republika Srpska only marks the anniver- Throughout its 10 years, what set VJ nights… and other affiliated DJ nights. ground culture. border between Sarajevo and East Sarajevo,” Filip sary of the signing of the Dayton Peace Agreement As it gets darker and cooler, I either go to Troi- Kisobran apart was that in an increas- Through the years, we worked with Although they admit that bridging the Matic, a 21-year-old student from East Sarajevo, told on November 21, 1995, which officially brought the ka Caviar bar (Njegoseva 10), the re-opened ingly alienating city; it was a community many people in the city. We always age gap may be a challenge in the future, BIRN. Serb-dominated entity into existence. jazz club in Klub knjizevnika (Francuska 7) or where anyone interested could take part thought it was a privilege to be able to do they are working hard to give a platform “There used to be a joke among the elderly, they “Statehood Day is just one of examples where maybe the new gin bar Leticia (Krunska 61), and feel at home: in designing elaborate it and we did it with our hearts. We were to young voices with Kisobran, just as were saying to people who come to East Sarajevo, you can see that even without visible borders, divi- in an old villa in fabulous Krunska street in stages, creating VJ sets, designing tickets, all students and did it as a side job, with older members gave them one. They ‘When you don’t see any more signs on shops writ- sions still exist here among us and there a long road Vracar. Since every night can be movie night, taking photos or organising exhibitions. little intention to profit from it financially. also want to make sure the thrilling bub- ten in Cyrillic than you will know you are in Sara- ahead of us to somehow change it for the better,” and as movies for me are reserved for a big Kisobran’s cult strengthened with the However, when we needed for it to be ble of creativity Kisobran created ten jevo and not in East Sarajevo,” Matic said, referring Matic said. screen, I like to be almost alone in one of Bel- opening of its first permanent temple in financially sustainable - things worked years ago keeps improving. to Serbs’ use of the Cyrillic script. People’s differences might not be visible, but they grade’s cinemas and watch a good film, like 2015, the Zaokret cafe in the now trendy out.” Radojkovic sees it as their mission to East Sarajevo consists of a few pre-war suburban remain serious, he cautioned. Cetinjska nightlife district. The café is This ‘bespoke’ approach continues keep “filling the [cultural] gaps that exist The Bohemian Rhapsody about the inspira- parts of Sarajevo which are now in Republika Srp- “I would never say that we are facing obstacles or run by Kisobran’s current (informal) even now. “Each Kisobran party is organ- in Serbia”. tional rise of the iconic Freddie Mercury. ska as a result of the territorial makers laid down some kind of powerful social divide but we must bear leaders, Marko ‘Marun’ Radojkovic and ised by at least fifteen people: animators, “We want 50, 100 or 1,000 people to by the Dayton Peace Agreement that ended the in mind the deep disagreement about things that hap- Ivan ‘Junjior’ Ojkic, who have spent the visual artists, photographers, guest DJs… have everything they need in Belgrade If I am up for some clubbing, I choose between 1992-95 war in Bosnia, plus some newly built areas. pened during the war and, as is clear, the different better part of a decade preaching Kiso- No one is there just to do a gig but rather and see it as the best city in the world. If 100, Taman or Gajba, which are all in Sava- According to the 2013 census, it has a population of interpretations of the future of this country,” he said. bran’s gospel of creativity, openness and because they like it. For many of them we live in a bubble – and everybody does mala. But if I need to be up in the morning (re- 64,992. Next February’s Winter European Youth Olym- love of urban culture. that was the start of their creative ca- to an extent - we may as well make it bet- member, I started the day with a walk), I like A total of 57,953 are Serbs, with 2,429 Bosniaks, pics Festival will be co-hosted by Sarajevo and East Speaking about Kisobran’s beginnings, reers. Many see our party as an extracur- ter. It is easy to say that everything here 442 Croats and 692 who aren’t members of the Sarajevo - one of the biggest joint projects involving to bring a blanket, put a Roy Orbison record on they remember how back in the late ricular activity beside their work and a is bad and is falling apart and that you country’s three main ethnic groups. the two cities since the war. my gramophone (not usb, cd, or mp3), open 2000s Belgrade’s club scene was fiercely place to have fun - even if they may have want to leave… well, for those who don’t By comparison, 275,524 people live in Sarajevo, It’s hoped that the games could bring them closer a bottle of wine from Fino Vino and roast the divided according to music tastes: turbo- moved on musically,” Radojkovic says. leave in the end, we want to make this more than 80 per cent of them Bosniaks, with fewer together. chestnuts I bought earlier in the day. Sounds folker vs. EDMer (vs. Rappers). Indie mu- However, as with every art collective, bubble amazing.” than 4 per cent Serbs. In Sarajevo, Omerbasic said she hoped that divi- like a perfect day, right? It will be, as soon as sic enthusiasts did not have any nights there has been the inevitable ebb and Kisobran’s 10th birthday party is taking Formally known as Srpsko Sarajevo (Serb Sara- sions could be overcome despite the legacy of the we have more snow: and the forecast says for themselves. flow of people. Many Kisobran alumni place at Drugstore on December 1. Doors jevo), East Sarajevo is the capital of Republika Srp- war and what she described as “politicians who there will be some in the days ahead. “It was a need for a very small group decided to pursue other projects and open at 10pm, advance tickets can be ska, even though the constitution of this entity has constantly deny or argue about facts from the past”. of people in town, who did not have the careers, often abroad, like Ojkic’s broth- bought at the Zaokret cafe, Cetinjska 15 never been changed, so it still says the city is called “I hope we, the youth, will be smarter and focus You can follow Nikola on his Instagram how and where to have fun. Indie kids er, which left Radojkovic and Ojkic in and cost 400 dinars (3.5 euros) and 500 Srpsko Sarajevo, a name that was abolished in 2004 on a better life for all of us,” she said. account @nikmil79 of our age did not have a party for them- charge. dinars at the door (4.5 euros). 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT BOOKS Hit Guides Give Serbia’s Tarnished Image a Shine

Pilgrimage to Hilandar: Serbian Art, History and the Divine

Hilandar Monastery, which turned 820 this year, holds a unique place in Serbian secular and religious culture. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic

Hilandar comes fourth in the hierar- in the Latin script (a big no, no in Hilan- After a predictable rush to the mini- the all-night long vigil and the Midnight The Hilandar mon- chy of the Athonite monasteries and dar). After the lack of reply the e-mails vans Hilandar sent for us, we were on Office, which started at 2am. astery on Mt Athos is one of the richest in terms of lands went through four, progressively more our way up the dirt tracks towards the The latter two were some of the most and endowment, thanks to the dona- pious, Cyrillic iterations until, about two monastery. spiritual and mystical experiences of is home to invalu- tions from Serbian and other Orthodox months later, in May, we were offered a My fear was now completely different. my life. The candle-lit services inside the able medieval nobles. During the early 14th Century, two-day stay in November, due to the What if instead of going on a pilgrimage, nave of the main 13th Century church, Hilandar and the entire Athonite com- high volume of pilgrims over the sum- I would be stuck on a lame stag-do-like dedicated to the Entrance of the Virgin Dimitrije Stamenkovic founded Komshe in 2004. Photo: Courtesy of Dimitrije Stamenkovic Serbian art and munity were heavily supported by Em- mer and early autumn. weekend? This fear completely disap- into the Temple, gave the gold and silver peror Dusan of Serbia, who came to the In the run up to our ‘pilgrimage’, I was peared as soon I saw the sight of Hilan- of icons and frescos an otherworldly historical objects, monastery to escape the plague with his repeatedly asked if I was prepared spir- dar’s tallest tower poking from the pine glow. The chanting of the few dozen Dimitrije friendly to foreigners. The students did started to print more books by expats Hiking & Biking in Serbia. “I am happy in a niche market,” Stamenkovic ex- and offers spiritual wife Helena of Bulgaria, who was car- itually for it. “It will be interesting to see forest, a sight familiar from many of my monks and rhythmical movements of not expect that, and when they went who wanted to publish material about that we have established a close rela- plains. ried around so as not to touch the holy the two of you there,” the most pious of history and arts textbooks. the pious, gave a sense of deep connec- Stamenkovic’s back, they had a totally opposite idea Serbia in English. Komshe became pop- tionship with all our authors and be- Beside Komshe, Dimitrije is active experience visitors ground and break ‘avaton’. my friends scoffed, thinking us unfit to Once we arrived at the monastery, we tion, both to those inside the packed of Serbia, which was very positive. It ular amongst expat circles, which we came true friends with all of them,” he in an organisation, HeapSpace (heap- Later the monastery enjoyed protec- properly enjoy and engage with Hilan- were formally welcomed with coffee, church but also to all those who prayed made me feel good that my friends and did not expect,” Stamenkovic says. says. space.rs), which organises an annual will never forget. tion and donations from Vlad Tepes dar’s unique community. Turkish delight and ouzo, and were giv- in it throughout the centuries before us. idea – to change I could portray Serbia and the region in Other books were then published, “The first book in the region about IT conference in Belgrade, Heapcon Dracula (better known as Vlad the Im- Needless to say, I was a bit nervous en our rooms in conformable dormito- The air was electrified with the in- a different, more affirmative way.” including Snippets of Serbia, Grumpy street art came from us, which is Street (heapcon.io). paler and popularised by Bram Stoker), during our drive down to the pretty port ries and could explore the grounds until tensity with which the pilgrims prayed the region’s iffy With that in mind, Komshe was in Belgrade, Serbia, Belgrade Bites and Art Belgrade, authored by Aleksandar Snippets of Serbia, by Emma Fick, an Srdjan GARCEVIC as well as Gjon Kastrioti, the father of town of Uranopolis, a port on the edge of the obligatory 3pm Holy Liturgy. to the icons, prostrating themselves in founded in 2004 by youngsters seek- Djordjevic. This book also became very American artist, who chronicles her life Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, an Albania Athonite lands. I wondered if we would We were put together with five fire front and pressing their lips and fore- image through ing to change Serbia’s image in a posi- popular and we saw that they even in Serbia with drawings and text, is cur- or anyone who has had any national hero who fought the Ottomans stick out like sore thumbs, without the fighters from Northern Mitrovica, one of heads to the glittering faces of saints. Af- tive way, without being driven by hun- started to organise street art tours here rently their most popular book. kind of brush with the Serbi- in the 15th Century, who joined the mon- knowledge of the proper language or whom had been to Hilandar seven times ter the services ended, and we walked innovative ger for money. They decided to achieve in Belgrade. Once street art was only “It is amazing how she drew and an education system or the astery’s brotherhood and after whom functioning of Orthodox monasteries and always brought his friends with him. through the starry nights, the complete this by publishing travel guides in for- considered as graffiti, but now even Bel- wrote about her experiences while she Serbian Orthodox Church, one of the towers on Hilandar’s vast es- and the ever-present anxiety around In many ways, they were a typical Hilan- silence was broken with hushed talk guidebooks – has eign languages, as there were almost no grade decision-makers see it as art. This was in Serbia. For example, she took me Hilandar is etched in the tate is named the Albanian tower (‘arba- the appropriate time to cross ourselves dar pilgrim group: guys aged mid-30s about cancers, familial problems and such travel guides about the region. had been picked up in France and Bel- one day to Novi Pazar and showed me Fmemory as the place where the glory of naski pirg’). during the services. to 60s, friends of varying levels of piety holy oils which can heal them. borne fruit, as “The very first travel guide published We want gium, where we were asked to promote beautiful monasteries and mosques. I medieval Serbia survived, almost intact, Throughout its existence, Hilandar who relied on one, slightly more pious Amazing as the experience was, after by Komshe was Serbia in your hands, the book at various events. We want to had not been aware how beautiful they for more than eight centuries. was not only a place of faith, but also SELFIES, BEER AND leader. They were also amazingly kind two nights we were physically and emo- both sales and and the reaction from the market was to continue make these kinds of positive changes were. Hilandar was founded in 1198 by Ste- a place of scholarship and art. Its vast BELIEVERS and friendly, offering us treats from pear tionally exhausted. We bought souve- awards testify. amazing,” Stamenkovic recalls. with Komshe and continue with these “We want to continue publishing fan Nemanja, the first ruler of the Serbi- library contains invaluable tomes on brandy to sweets that they squirreled nirs - incense, wine, olive oil - and gave “The National Tourism Organisation publishing more kinds of things.” more of these creative and unique an medieval Nemanjic dynasty, and his medieval history, medicine and science, On the fateful morning of what was to away in their bags to survive the long a donation (staying at the monastery is of Serbia was delighted with this edi- While Stamenkovic handles sales books about Belgrade, Serbia and the son, Archbishop Sava, who secured the while its art collection, from the gilded be our first day in Hilandar, we picked hours between two meagre monastery free and Hilandar is still recovering from Fabian VENDRIG tion, and that gave us a boost to con- of these creative and marketing, his business partner region, which portray all its beauty and autonomy of the Serbian church and ancient frescoes of its church and refec- up our permit (diamonitirion) to en- meals served each day. a 2004 blaze), and were off to Uranopo- tinue.” and co-owner of Komshe, Branko An- uniqueness. We might conclude that is one of the most revered saints in Ser- tory to miraculous icons and relics, are ter Athos from the pilgrim’s office, and On our off times between the many lis. On the boat back, the magic was gone, imitrije Stamenkovic After the success of Serbia in your and unique dric, manages the creative part. our idea of portraying Serbia and the bia. It is part of a unique community of remarkable for any medieval art enthu- boarded the large ferry which was to services, we went around the monas- even as we were passing other monas- was born in Leskovac, in hands, they published a travel guide “We sell our books and guides via region in a better way is proving suc- 20 monasteries and several hermitages siast. take us to the monastery. As I climbed tery to see the places we have read so teries by the shore. There was a haggard southern Serbia, which about Belgrade and another about distributors in the United Kingdom cessful,” Stamenkovic ends. that are huddled on the verdant slopes However, a visit to Hilandar offers to the top deck, I was still spooked by much about in history books: a heal- looking itinerant monk who was selling you can hear immedi- Montenegro. books about and Germany to the whole of Europe. of the Mount Athos peninsula in Greece. much more than just the aesthetic a poster explaining the rules of mon- ing well dug by St Sava, an ancient vine trinkets, and many had already started ately from his distinctive At the tourism fair in 2006 in Bel- We are an independent publisher and For more information about Komshe’s The Holy Mountain, as the communi- pleasures of spending time in an ancient astery life (swimming, piercings and growing from the former grave of Stefan on the Amstel sold at the bar. Ddialect. After high school he moved grade, Komshe received a prestigious Belgrade, Serbia we find quality very important. The publications, visit their website: ty is known, was founded on the moun- monastery nestled between serene, fra- sportswear, among other things, are Nemanja and a majestic tower built by Still, even during this hum-drum part to Belgrade in 1999 for faculty stud- “Turisticki cvet” (“Tourist Flower”) competition is not tough, as we work www.komshe.com tainous peninsula that is considered to grant hills dotted with cypresses and banned) and I half expected my fel- King Milutin in the 13th Century to pro- of the trip, I could not feel anything but ies. Besides studying, however, he also award from The National Tourism and the region, belong to the Virgin Mary, as she, accord- olive trees. It is a unique chance to expe- low pilgrims to be an emaciated quiet tect the monastery from pirates. gladness to have been able to take part became active in a European student Organisation of Serbia for the second ing to legend, once took refuge there on rience its ancient spirituality in full glory bunch. What I found, however, was en- Seeing all of this made me giddy. Hi- in such a deep experience, and see an- organisation, called AEGEE, through edition of Serbia in your hands, which which portray all ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ her travels. and connect with other pilgrims. tirely different. landar is a rare place that has continu- other side to my beer-swilling fellow which he organised events and had an they translated in German and Italian, ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” The monasteries, the oldest of which I decided to visit Hilandar when a I was surrounded by several hun- ously preserved this ancient history, as pilgrims: one of deep vulnerability and opportunity to travel and meet people too. Later, more travel guides followed, its beauty and RESTAURANT KOVAČ is the Great Lavra that was founded in friend of mine suggested it on a whim dred, middle-aged, often pot-bellied it was protected from the many wars belief in connection both to the divine from abroad. about Bosnia and Herzegovina and Slo- modern ethno restaurant 960 during the Byzantine era, still form last March. Although both of us are Or- Greeks, Serbs, Russians, Romanians and pillages that regularly hit Serbia. and to the fellow men around them. “During my AEGEE-period I became venia as well. uniqueness. the Monastic State of the Holy Moun- thodox, in a post-socialist, Belgrade, cul- and Bulgarians, many of whom were The walks around the picturesque mon- aware of the bad image that Serbia and “The travel guide about Bosnia did tain, which is legally separate from the tural sort of way, neither of us is a regular busy taking selfies feeding the seagulls, astery lands were amazing given the For information about visiting the region had abroad. For example, especially well in Germany and the Greek state. The community observes a church-goer, so from the beginning of chugging beers or playing folk music clean air, calm and the absence of mo- Hilandar please visit the official (Serbian when people from a sister organisation United Kingdom,” he recalls. number of its own regulations, the most our visit we were in the dark on what from their phones. The one exception bile phone signal. language) website: hilandar.org. To ar- in The Netherlands came to Serbia for In 2012, Komshe took the next step famous of which is ‘avaton’, the ban on our visit would be like and even how to to this was a single, thoughtful monk However, the main attraction during range a visit write (ideally in Serbian us- an exchange, they brought everything by printing Belgrade Streets, which be- women setting foot on the peninsula so organise it. who looked calmly towards the hori- our short two nights were the church ing Cyrillic script) to pilgrims@hilandar. with them,” he recalls. came an instant success. “The author, as to ensure celibacy and preserve the Our first e-mail asking for the bless- zon and the imposing mountain that services we attended. Although only org, with your name, passport number, “They literally thought we had noth- Andy Townend, was asked onto many Dimitrije Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 focus of the monks and pilgrims on cel- ing for our stay in Hilandar was written was rising in front of us, as the others the morning and afternoon Holy Litur- occupation, phone number and desired ing. But nature in the region is beautiful, TV shows and became well known. Stamenkovic www.restorankovac.com ebrating the Virgin Mary. in clumsy, secular matter-of fact prose, were noisily going about their business. gies were obligatory, we also attended visit dates. the food is amazing and people are very This was a point of no return for us; we Publisher 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 13 EXPATS' CORNER ARTS

COMMENT Vuk Vuckovic Goes Cosmic at X Vitamin Merlinka Vuk Vuckovic may be young but he’s definitely not unknown on the local art Marks Queer scene, especially not after Arts in brief his extremely popular series of urban panoramas, Exciting Cities. This time, the artist is Film Festival’s preparing a solo show at the X Vitamin Gallery (Studentski Trg 11, 1st floor), presenting a First Decade series entitled Cosmic Land- scapes. The exhibition opens on November 22 and will Over four days, audiences will be able remain on display through New screen to catch more than 100 movies from 35 December 13. Entrance is free. portrayal of Oscar countries. Besides European countries and the United States, films from Brazil, French Artist to Wilde’s last years Paraguay, Argentina, Burma, India, Tai- Hold Pop-Up at will be among the wan, China, Israel and Iran will also be Ostavinska presented, offering insight into the lives many highlights of the LGBT community in a variety of This year’s guest of Nova distinctive cultural and political envi- Iskra’s “Resident Designer” of this year’s tenth ronments. program is Charlotte de Each year, the festival has one coun- Sédou from France, who festival. will present her “One Night try in focus. This year the spotlight is on Stand” exhibition, entitled German queer cinema. Spare Parts on November David GALIC It is also notable that many of the 23 at 6 pm at Ostavinska films that will be screened at the Mer- Gallery (Kraljevica Marka 8). unique event in the re- linka festival have been presented with As a pop-up exhibition, it will gion, the Merlinka festi- success at top international festivals, be shown for one night only. val offers not just a safe such as Sundance, Berlinale, Cannes, Entrance is free of charge. space but a vital plat- the Toronto Film Festival, and others. form for queer culture The festival opens with The Happy Famed Duo Play Brahms Sonatas at inA all its shapes and forms. Prince, a biopic about the great Anglo- Kolarac The festival started back in 2009 and Irish queer writer and playwrite Oscar has been held in December in Dom Wilde, written and directed by Rupert Serbian violinist of interna- Omladine ever since, supported by its Everett who stars in the title role in his tional fame Stefan Milen- many partners, friends of the festival directorial debut. kovic is teaming up with and institutions. Over the last decade, The film covers the last years in the famous Sri Lankan pianist the festival has expanded to other cit- life of the controversial author, the two Rohan de Silva on Saturday, ies in the ex-Yugoslav region. Today, it years he spent in jail in England for the November 24, for an unfor- takes place not just in Belgrade but in crime of “gross indecency”, as well as gettable recital, as part of the The secular nature of Thanksgiving makes it an unusually inclusive holiday in the US – and abroad. Image: Jennie Augusta Brownscombe, The First Thanksgiving at Plymouth, 1914, Pilgrim Hall Museum Kolarac - Your World of Music Sarajevo, Tuzla, Novi Sad, Nis and Pod- his exile to France and lonely death af- series. The duo will play gorica as well. ter being released from prison. Brahms’ Sonatas for violin The festival was first created with one The film intertwines conflicting sto- and piano. Tickets for the purpose – to promote LGBT culture in rylines – flashbacks to the time when concert at the Ilija M. Kolarac an environment where such issues had Wilde was still full of optimism and vitali- Endowment (Studentski Trg never been addressed properly. Mer- ty, and his final years spent in misery and 5) are available for 1,600 I’m Thankful for dinars (14 euros) and 2,000 linka has since developed into a sur- illness, ridiculed by his fellow Brits. In ad- prisingly efficient method of protecting dition to Everett, The Happy Prince also dinars (17 euros).

LGBT rights, promoting the importance stars Colin Firth as Wilde’s close friend Hotel Yugoslavia Thanksgiving Abroad of tolerance and understanding and, Reggie Turner, Emily Watson as Wilde’s Photo Book most importantly, fighting homopho- wife, Constance, and Colin Morgan as the Many of the films that will be screened at the Merlinka Photo: Courtesy of Merlinka Festival Promoted at KC Grad bia, transphobia and bigotry towards writer’s lover, Lord Alfred Douglas. festival have been presented with success at top international festivals. Although this Alexis TRAUSSI become my chosen family, and for As each consecutive friend came, the superb aspects of our lives – health, the LGBT community. This is in big part Another interesting film in this year’s During his residence at KC them I am thankful. they pitched in to help the cooking, family, jobs, whatever it may be – but at thanks to the fact that it does an amaz- festival is Can You Ever Forgive Me?, ers, a Hollywood legend who spent a program, and will host a number of Grad in 2014, Finnish artist holiday is mainly was surprised that there’s Growing up in what was essentially setting the table, or anything else that what cost? How has American politics ing job in promoting LGBT and queer a biopic about Lee Israel, played by lifetime fulfilling the most secret sexual guest speakers from Serbia and abroad, Sakari Viika took plenty of a holiday that everyone a non-religious household, the secular needed to get done. affected the lives of millions of people culture in a non-conflictive way, telling Melissa McCarthy, an author of biog- desires of movie stars and other power- from Zelimir Zilnik, Aleks Vujosevic, pictures of Belgrade, inspired celebrated in the celebrates,” Mayada nature of Thanksgiving was always By the time everyone had arrived, across the globe? How has America stories about the lives of LGBT persons raphies who became famous for her ful Hollywood figures. Vladana Vasic, Tina Novak and Dejan by a Super 8 film from Anjari, a Syrian refugee appreciated. we were hungry and buzzing with impacted the Balkans? that are both intimate and moving. many acts of literary forgery. Another film that shouldn’t be Ulaga, to Aileen Pinkert, Yony Leyser, Yugoslavia that was shot in the 1970s. The results of United States, living in New Jersey, told No one was left out based, on their a kind of energy I had never felt at a Thanksgiving illuminates, how This year’s International Queer Film Remaining in the literary domain, missed is Knife+Heart, a horror/thriller Gregor Kohlhofer, Karl Neubart, Jan- his visit can be seen in the the“I New York Times. religious affiliation; everyone came Thanksgiving back home. despite every difficulty and all the Festival, the tenth, takes place from De- Merlinka also brings Vita and Virginia, about a producer of low-tier gay por- Peter Horstmann and many others. photographs collected in the tenets of The article traced the lives of various back to school talking about their The magnetism in the room hardships we can go through during the cember 6 to 9 at its traditional venue, directed by Chanya Button, a fascinat- nography, played by Vanessa Paradis, a recently published book migrants and refugees who have settled meals. I had hosted my own friends stemmed from the fact that everyone year, that there can always be something Dom Omladine, under the slogan De- ing story about the intense romance be- and Marcello Martinessi’s The Heiress- For more information on film dates, entitled Hotel Yugoslavia, Thanksgiving in the United State and are celebrating who could not make it back home had chosen to be there. We wanted to be grateful for. That is something that spite Everything. This year, the festival tween two upper class British writers, es, the winner of the Silver Bear award times and ticket prices as well as a more which will be presented on Thanksgiving for their first time. for various reasons. But, growing up to be in each other’s company, we people of every nationality, race, gender, will extend to all halls and rooms of Vita Sackville-West and Virginia Woolf. at the Berlin Film Festival. detailed overview of the programme, November 27 at KC Grad transcend borders A Russian migrant, seeking asylum with parents in the food and beverage cherished the people we were with, sexuality, age and religion should take Dom Omladine – the Great Hall, Ameri- Scotty and the Secret History of Hol- In addition to movie screenings, visit the festival’s official website: (Brace Krsmanovic 4) at 8 from the country’s anti-gay legislation, industry, it was also a day entirely spent and we came to revel in friendship. time to reflect on. cana and the Club. lywood tells the story of Scotty Bow- the festival will also feature a rich side merlinka.com pm. Entrance is free. and bring friends declared in the same article “that is on the merriment of eating, on family When people left, we were full, happy After Mrs Anjari finished making her a holiday I want to cook for,” after and on the little amount of time we and, hopefully, thankful. first Thanksgiving meal, she said to the and families learning that Thanksgiving honours spent together. Many of my friends speak fondly reporter: “Next time, I’ll make them [the the practice of treating strangers with Memories of making pies, driving about that evening; there was, of course, dishes] better.” together. generosity, charity and kindness. to see my father’s family and running some drama – every Thanksgiving I This year, like so many others, I As an American living in Belgrade, around the kitchen trying to get a have been to has seen some. have more than I ever can write down the holiday feels like an important taste of Aunt Barbara’s food are ones But there were also memories to be thankful of, but I will also have cultural contribution I can offer my I cherish – and hope to share with my emblazoned in our minds. Like one of my brother – who I have bringing friends. friends on the same day. our friends drinking gravy, or another cranberries as well – along with my These are the people that have The first time I cooked a Thanksgiving one who couldn’t eat and was waiting chosen family. fashioned a home around me in a place meal alone was in Belgrade. I had even patiently for the day when he could I will probably make much the where, just a few years earlier, I couldn’t smuggled fresh cranberries into Serbia actually try something. same substitutions I made when I first even read the Cyrillic script. They have so I could have everyone try cranberry While there are many positives cooked here, and, maybe, I will throw in sauce – one of my favourite dishes of to Thanksgiving, we also should a Serbian dish or two, just so my brother the day. recognise the questionable history can try some of the local cuisine. I’ll try I substituted sausage for cevapcici surrounding the holiday. to make them better than the last time in my stuffing, a dish that is basically The whitewashed story taught as well. savoury bread pudding, and another in American schools records that And I will definitely make a pumpkin one of my favourites. I used two indigenous people and emigrants from pie, because that was the only dish my chickens instead of a turkey because I England sat down together and shared brother requested – even though it is hadn’t had the time to ask my butcher a celebratory meal in 1621. not my favourite. at Kalenic market if he could get one for It ignored the violence that me. colonialisation brought to the Northern Alexis Traussi is Balkan Insight's social We started cooking in the early American continent – and the people media assistant and correspondent. afternoon – and drinking, which who were living there well before is another important aspect of Europeans “discovered” America in 1492. The opinions expressed in the Thanksgiving, because sometimes we Ruminating on these seemingly Comment section are those of the have too much time with our families – forgotten stories is important to the authors only and do not necessarily and finished at 8pm. holiday itself. We ought to cherish all reflect the views of BIRN. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON Day or Night at Tranzit Nouveau CLUBBING Brunch venue by day, lounge bar in AND LIVE MUSIC early evening and dance club by night FRIDAY NOVEMBER 23 • Auf Wiedersehen, Ciglana, • Brian McShtulli, Club Fest, – this Savamala Slanacki put 26, 10pm Gradski park 2, 10pm • Kurve/SUS/SvPseta, • Takman + Damjanov Zelenko, • Emma Morton and the Graces staple is deservedly Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, 10pm (sco/ita), Dorcol Platz, Dobracina KOLARAC • Loco Band, Club Fest, Gradski park • Scepine Vragolije meets Marko 59b, 9pm popular among 2, 10pm Milosavljevic, Grad Cultural • Change with Us, Tranzit • Samostalni Referenti, Bozidarac, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, Nouveau, Brace Krsmanovica 8, PROGRAMME locals and Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm 10pm 11.30pm • Bullet for a Badman, Strogi Centar, • Job Jobse & Luc Mast (De • HKLRZ 5, Grad Cultural Center, foreigners alike. Gospodar Jevremova 43, 10pm School, NL), Drugstore, Bulevar Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Grupa Vrelo, Soul Society, Knez Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Voitax Label Night w/ Makaton, Miletina 2, 9.30pm • Matija Duic (CRO), Vemic & Trole, Paàl, Paul Damage, Drugstore, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 23 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 29 • Change with Us, Tranzit Nouveau, Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm David GALIC Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11.30pm • Saturday Fever, Brankow, • Nemanja Krstic & Marko Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm • WCS 1 B-DAY BASH: Gino Crnogorska 12, 11pm Milosavljevic, Club 20/44, Usce Belgrade Philharmonic/Darkness Level up Concert season ecently rebranded from Grasso (Bologna, Italy) & DJ • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva bb, 11pm Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Muzikon Chamber Orchestra Tranzit Bar to Tranzit Iron, Grad Cultural Center, Brace 44, 10pm • Free Psychedelic Friday, Imago Soloist: Sergej Krylov, violin Milos Petrovic, violin Krsmanovica 4, 10pm • Laughing Buddha, Imago CUK, Programme: W. A. Mozart, Damir Orascanin, viola Nouveau this season, CUK, Decanska 14, 11pm S. Prokofiev, T. Ades • Mohammad Reza Mortazavi Decanska 14, 11pm Conductor: Aleksandar Sedlar this bar and nightclub • Veliki mir, Ljubimac, Cetinjska Production: Belgrade Philharmonic & Nene H. presented by RUNO, • Do the Math, Zaokret, Cetinjska Programme: S.Prokofiev, A. Sedlar, has been one of the most 15, 8pm More information on +381 011 26 30 744 Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 15, 7pm • Oscillate invites Sugar Lobby, W.A.Mozart Rpopular clubs in Belgrade’s Savamala nd 115, 11pm • 2 B-day, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 24 Admission price: 800, 1000 dinars neighbourhood for a while and it • Nevena Jeremic / Little Lu / Igor 8pm doesn’t look as if its reign will be coming Concert Hall, 11am FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30 Jadranin, Club 20/44, Usce bb, • Cherry on Top, DOT, Francuska SATURDAY DECEMBER 1 to an end any time soon. 11pm 6, 11pm Small School of Manners/How to listen to a Concert Located in the heart of Savamala • Brankow Birthday – City of Vice, • Rndmslv, Club Secer, Svetogorska Concert Hall, 8pm • Bajaga i Instuktori, Stark Arena, Children's studio gicflute Filhademia (Braca Krsmanovic 8), Tranzit has a lot Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm 17, 11pm Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 58, Host: Milos Milovanovic Conductor: Uros Lajovic • Dooshan & Milos Starcevic, • Disco night w/Peppe, Gajba, Music Centre of things going for it. First, the location 9pm Production: Soloist: Boris Brezovac, viola Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Karadjordjeva 44/II, 11pm Admission price: 200 dinars makes it a great spot to visit at any • Ilhan Ersahin, Dom Omladine, Aleksandar Latkovic, cello • Cola Music Night, Imago CUK, • Disco all night long, Strafta, point of day or night. Start your night Makedonska 22, 9pm Programme: W.A.Mozart, R. Strauss Decanska 14, 10pm Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm at Tranzit Nouveau and then go to • Ex Revolveri, Elektropionir, Production: Belgrade Philharmonic • The never Played Symphonies, Kolarac/ Your Music World Cetinjska 15, 9pm Stefan Milenkovic, violin More information on another club to finish off – or start off Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 25 • Pogonbgd, Bozidarac, Radoslava Roshan de Silva, piano +381 011 26 30 744 the night in another neighborhood bar • BombON, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm One of the most popular nights in Tranzit Nouveau is Disco to Disco on Wednesdays. Photo: Courtesy of Tranzit Nouveau Grujica 3, 8pm Programme: Brahms/Sonatas and end it at Tranzit, which is open until • As Smooth As, DOT, Francuska 6, • RHCP Tribute Band, Club Fest, • Kisobran Party, Drugstore, Production: Music Centre SUNDAY, DECEMBER 2 3 am. If you like checking out several More than anything else, Tranzit The club is one of the most popular adding modern furniture and lighting small beer will cost you about three 11pm Gradski park 2, 10pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 10pm Admission price: 1600, 1800, 2000 dinars nightclubs during the course of the Nouveau is a place to go dancing. It places in Savamala because just about to the equation. euros and a cocktail might cost more • 808s & Heartbreak 10 • Poezin Party, Soul Society, Knez • Saturday Fever, Brankow, Concert Hall, 11am th night, Tranzit Nouveau is located close features a lineup that includes a good anyone can feel at home there. Although it’s closed right now, than 10. Anniversary, Club Secer, Miletina 2, 8pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm 10 anniversary concert of Rocher Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Zen, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 25 music institution to a bunch of them. percentage of Serbia’s best DJs. One of It’s also no coincidence that Tranzit everyone who hasn’t seen it should Another great thing about Tranzit • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva • Iron & FUNKcioner, Gajba, 10pm Production: Music Centre It’s also a cool place to visit when the the most popular nights is Wednesday’s Nouveau is popular also with foreigners remember that Tranzit Nouveau has Nouveau is that although it’s very 44, 10pm Concert Hall, 11am Karadjordjeva 44/II, 11pm • We Make 5 – SHINOBI – Sale 7 Admission free sun’s out, to catch a late breakfast or Disco to Disco, led by popular DJ Goran who come to get a taste of Belgrade’s one of the best and biggest summer popular, you usually don’t need a • Imaginarium, Imago CUK, Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber • Beyond 2000, Strafta, Admirala Party, Kaldrma bar, Skadarska 40, Decanska 14, 11pm Music go on a lunch date. Tranzit Nouveau Starcevic. nightlife. gardens in the neighborhood. reservation. Since a lot of nightclubbers Geprata 14, 10pm 3pm Katharina Uhde, violin MONDAY, DECEMBER 3 • We are the Party w/Yuto Takei, effortlessly makes the transition The weekend usually features house, The interior is typical “modern As is the case with other clubs that are “in transit,” coming in and out of the , Mr. Stefan Braun, Sanja Uhde, cello • Por Que No Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 4pm throughout the day from bistro by day deep house and tech house, nothing industrial” in fashion, using some of the are popular with slightly older clubbers club during the night, there is usually SATURDAY NOVEMBER 24 Nemanjina 4, 11pm Michael Uhde, piano Concert Hall, 8pm • Cherry on Top, DOT, Francuska to lounge bar in the afternoon and full- overly experimental or unique – but elements left over from the old building and foreigners, the prices are a little room for new patrons, even if you have Programme: Haydn, Nolck, Joachim, Magic of the Classics 6, 11pm Beethoven • E-Play, Dom Omladine, MONDAY NOVEMBER 26 Jovan Kolundzija, violin blown nightclub after 10 pm. that’s not what Tranzit Nouveau is about. where the nightclub is located and higher than in most Belgrade bars. A to wait for a few minutes. Production: Music Centre Nada Kolundzija, piano Makedonska 22, 9pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 2 Admission free Nikola Zaringer, piano • 21 vek + Triko, Elektropionir, • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Programme: J. M. Leclair, G. I. Gurdjieff, Cetinjska 15, 8.30pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26 • Djordje Balasevic, Kombank C. Saint-Saens, P.I. Tchaikovsky and M. • Direktori, Club Fest, Gradski park Dvorana, Decanska 14, 8pm Legrand 2, 10pm TUESDAY NOVEMBER 27 Concert Hall, 8pm • Beth Hart, Sports Hall Ranko Production: Guarnerius Keziah Jones Back Beth Hart Returns for • Prti Bee Gee, Bozidarac, Radoslava Art Ensemble of the Ministry of Defence Zeravica, Pariske komune 20, 8pm Stanislav Binicki Admission price: 600, 800 and 1000 Grujica 3, 8pm • Ladies with Benefits, Tranzit • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, Conductor: Pavle Medakovic dinars for Two Concerts Anniversary Tour • Natasa Guberinic & Di Luna Blues Nouveau, Brace Krsmanovica 8, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Production: Binicki Band, Soul Society, Knez Miletina 10pm WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 5 he great Keziah Jones is back in Belgrade for two concerts, fter last year’s spectacular concert, Beth Hart is back in Bel- 2, 10pm • Malinada, Ludost Bar, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 27 MONDAY DECEMBER 3 part of the Musicology Barcaffe Sessions. The Nigerian grade for another show, this time as part of her 25th Anni- Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm songwriter and guitarist is on tour presenting his latest versary Tour. The great blues-rock singer, considered • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Concert Hall, 8pm 70th Anniversary of the Institute of • The Tiger Lillies, Dom Omladine, Choir of Faculty of Music material, which hasn’t even been recorded in studio yet, one of the best vocalists of her generation, is famous Nemanjina 4, 11pm Musicology of the Serbian Academy of T A Makedonska 22, 9pm Conductor: Biljana Radovanovic Sciences and Arts so the concerts are going to be a real treat. Jones gained massive for high-energy, emotional live performances. Beth has several S. Rachmaninoff, • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Programme: Concert music of Serbian composers WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 28 G.F.Handel, A.Gretchaninov popularity in the 1990s with his unusual mixture of raw blues award-winning studio and live albums under her belt. Last Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Soloists: Srdjan Grujic, violin and edgy funk, which he dubbed “Blufunk”. It’s a genre he has year, she was promoting her 2016 album Fire on the Floor. This Production: Faculty of Music • Toby Driver (US), Del Judas (US), Admission free Ljubomir Milanović, viola remained faithful to despite the many innovations his records time she’ll be doing a retrospective of her 25-year long career, Zoran Antic, guitar Nick Hudson (UK), Elektropionir, TUESDAY DECEMBER 4 have since made. His two concerts will be at the popular live mu- meaning we’ll get to hear all of her greatest hits. The concert on Chamber Orchestra St. George Strings Cetinjska 15, 7.30pm WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 28 sic venue, BitefArtCafe (Mitropolita Petra 8) on November 28 and December 2 at Ranko Zeravica Sports Hall (Pariske komune 20) Conductor: Vladimir Kulenovic • Mastering w/Gramophonedzie • Djordje Balasevic, Kombank Music Gallery, 6pm 30. Tickets are available at the venue and at Eventim points of sale starts at 8 pm. Tickets cost in between 2,900 dinars (24 euros) to & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Dvorana, Decanska 14, 8pm throughout the city for 1,800 dinars (15 euros). 3,900 dinars (33 euros). FREE COPY • Ladies with Benefits, Tranzit Cycle: An encounter with an Artist THURSDAY, DECEMBER 6 Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Jelica Gligorijevic, piano Nouveau, Brace Krsmanovica 8, • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, Production: Music Centre Concert Hall, 8pm 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Admission free Belgrade Philharmonic / Hanging Out 2 , Ludost Bar, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Malinada Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade THURSADY NOVEMBER 29 Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Soloist: Barnabas Kelemen, violin Steinway Concert Season • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Programme: L. van Beethoven, C. Saint- Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Arcadi Volodos, piano Nemanjina 4, 11pm Saens, L. Janacek Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic • Luz Casal, Sava Center, Milentija Programme: F.Schubert, BIRN editorial team: Popovica 9, 8.30pm S.Rachmaninoff, A.Scriabin Production: Belgrade Philharmonic • Zabranjeno pusenje, SubBeerni WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 5 Orchestra Marcus Tanner Production: Piano Land Centar, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Admission price: 2200, 2500, More information on belgradeinsighteditor@birn. • Electric Dreams, Club Fest, • Mastering w/Gramophonedzie 3000 dinars +381 011 26 30 744 eu.com Gradski park 2, 9pm & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Sales & Marketing: Marija • RNB Thursday Delights, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Petrovic Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • ShazaLaKazoo, Gajba, +381 11 4030 302 • We Are Old school / Mooka, Karadjordjeva 44/II, 10pm Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm [email protected] Art Rocker Toby Driver Night of Pirate Metal at • Body and soul Night, Strafta, THURSDAY DECEMBER 6 at Elektropionir Dom Omladine Spirit of Underground Subscription & Distribution: Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm Techno Event to Feature Croatian All-Girl Berlin at Drugstore Goran Knezevic • NightFall&Volt Pop, Club Fest, Fans of avant-garde rock, atmospheric In case you’re not familiar with the Acclaimed Dutch DJs Experimental Rock at Kvaka 22 +381 63 562 265 FRIDAY NOVEMBER 30 Gradski park 2, 9pm post-metal and dark, slow-moving genre, pirate metal is just as fun as it Another VIP (Very Important Party) [email protected] • Jazz and Rock Festival, different and emotional music should not miss sounds. Fortunately for Belgraders and Continuing strong with the new Post-punk, shoegaze, krautrock, in Belgrade’s techno cathedral aka Printing: POLITIKA stamparija • Oleg Kieryev, Studentski Kulturni locations, 6pm Toby Driver, frontman of Kayo Dot and visitors, one of the best bands in the season, Drugstore (Despota Stefana synthwave, droney guitars ... all these Drugstore (Bulevar Despota Stefana Centar, Kralja Milana 48, 8pm , Kombank d.o.o. • Djordje Balasevic founding member of the legendary ex- genre, Alestorm, is playing a live show 115) is bringing Job Jobse and Luc Mast, could be used to describe the sound 115) takes place on November 30. It • Korni Grupa, Sava Center, Dvorana, Decanska 14, 8pm perimental doom metal band, Maudlin at Dom Omladine (Makedonska 22) on residents of one of the best European of Zen and yet none of them would brings the spirit of underground Berlin ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Milentija Popovica 9, 8.30pm • RNB Thursday Delights, of the Well. Driver and his band will be November 28, supported by the Icelan- underground techno clubs, De School even come close, as this amazing band to Belgrade, with the Voitac Label Night Insight • Kralj Cacka, Dom Omladine, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm in Elektropionir (Cetinjska 15) on No- dic Viking folk metalheads Skálmöld. from Amsterdam. Local support will is beyond classification. They will be featuring the most representative COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Makedonska 22, 9pm • We Are Old School / Mooka, vember 28. The concert starts at 9 pm. Presale tickets cost 2,400 dinars (20 be provided by Belgrade techno legend bringing their audio-visual art rock per- artists from the label’s roster: Makaton, Circulation: 2,000 • Organizam and Majdan, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, Tickets will be available at the door euros) and will be 3,000 dinars (25 Kristijan Molnar. Tickets for the party formance to Kvaka 22 on November 25. Paal and Paul Damage. Tickets are Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm 10pm and will cost 1,500 dinars (13 euros). euros) at the door. of the month cost 600 dinars (5 euros). Tickets cost 300 dinars (2.5 euros). available for 600 dinars (5 euros). 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 23 - December 6, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

SATURDAY DECEMBER 1 • Arcadi VOLODOS, Ilija M. Kolarac • Art, Science, Makers, different WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 28 Theatre Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm locations, 11.30am • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), • Opera: Rigoletto (Verdi), National • 24th Auteur Film Festival, different • Art, Science, Makers, different FRIDAY NOVEMBER 23 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, locations, 1.30pm locations, 11.30am Milana 50, 8pm 7.30pm • Exhibition: Solo Show, Vuk • Book Promotion: Frontiers • The Power of Darkness (Tolstoy), Vuckovic, Gallery X Vitamin, of Civil Society, Institute for National Theatre in Belgrade, THURSADY NOVEMBER 29 Studentski trg 11, 2pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 2 Philosophy and Social Theory, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Exhibition: Aleksandar Opacic, Kraljice Natalije 45/IV, 11.30am • Right You Are If You Think So • The Bereaved Family (Nusic), • Jelena Jakovljevic and Angelina Studentski Grad Cultural Centare, (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama National Theatre in Belgrade, Nikolic (flute), Stevan Spalevic Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 5pm THURSADY NOVEMBER 29 Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm and Nemanja Ergic (piano), • Exhibition: Classic and Simbolic • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav Serbian Academy of Science and – Rings and earrings from the • Scientific Conference: End of War, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, MONDAY DECEMBER 3 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm collection of the Museum of 8.30pm • Chamber Orchestra Muzikon, Ilija Applied Arts, Museum of Applied Serbs and Yugoslavia, Serbian M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Arts, Vuka Karadzica 18, 6pm • The Great Drama (Kovacevic), Academy of Science and Arts, Knez trg 5, 8pm • Vasilije Mokranjac Fest, Belgrade SATURDAY NOVEMBER 24 National Theatre in Belgrade, Mihailova 35, 9.30am Cultural Center, Knez Mihailova 6, th Francuska 3, 7.30pm • 12 Science Fair, Belgrade Fair, • Small Marital Crimes (Schmitt), FRIDAY NOVEMBER 30 7pm Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 10am • Last Wild Serbia – Kucaj National Theatre in Belgrade, TUESDAY DECEMBER 4 • Exhibition: Dragan Ve Ignjatovic, • Belgrade Philharmonic Mountains, Belgrade City Library, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Studenski Grad Cultural Center, Orchestra, Closing Concert: Knez Mihailova 56, 7pm • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm • Accidental Death of an Anarchist Philcademy 3, Uros Lajovic • Exhibition: Traditional – Modern, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja (Fo), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, • Cycle: Genes and Population, Ilija Milana 50, 8pm (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac Studentski Kulturni Centar, Kralja Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Milana 48, 7pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav trg 5, 6pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, • SATURDAY DECEMBER 1 SATURDAY NOVEMBER 24 • Literary Evening by Djordje 8.30pm Opera, Ballet and Classical D. Sibinovic, Ilija M. Kolarac • Opera: Cinderella (Rossini), • Scientific Conference Endowment, Studentski trg 5, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 25 FRIDAY NOVEMBER 23 National Theatre in Belgrade, “Challenges in Stroke VII”, 7.30pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and • The Minister’s Wife (Nusic), • Belgrade Philharmonic Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 9am FRIDAY NOVEMBER 30 National Theatre in Belgrade, Orchestra, Sergej Krylov (violin), SUNDAY DECEMBER 2 • Exhibition: Traditional – Modern, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Ilija M. Studentski Kulturni Centar, Kralja • Symposium Inequality in Serbia, • The Woman from Sarajevo Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Ballet: Don Quixote, Live Milana 48, 10am Serbian Academy of Science and (Andric), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, 5, 8pm Broadcast from Bolshoi Theatre, • Art, Science, Makers, different Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Usce Cineplexx, Bulevar Mihajla locations, 11.00am Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am th SATURDAY NOVEMBER 24 Pupina 4, 4pm • 24th Auteur Film Festival, different • 12 Science Fair, Belgrade Fair, MONDAY NOVEMBER 26 • Rocher Band, Ilija M. Kolarac locations, 12.30pm Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 10am th • Small School of Bonton, Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am • International Accordion Festival, • 24 Auteur Film Festival, different • Accidental Death of an Anarchist Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg ULUS Gallery, Art Pavilion Cvijeta locations, 1.30pm (Fo), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, 5, 11am MONDAY DECEMBER 3 Zuzoric, Mali Kalemegdan, 7pm • Cycle: Stimulus to the Creative Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Stefan Milenkovic (violin), Ilija M. • Exhibitions: Archetypal settings, and Researching Ideas of Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Jovan Kolundzija (violin), Nada mina Rakidzic, Ilija M. Kolarac Young People, Ilija M. Kolarac TUESDAY NOVEMBER 27 5, 8pm Kolundzija (piano), Nikola Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Zaringer (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 25 • A Play About Mirjana and those SUNDAY NOVEMBER 25 SATURDAY DECEMBER 1 Around Her (Martinic), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, TUESDAY DECEMBER 4 • Art, Science, Makers, different • Uhde Family, Kolarac Podium of • A Day Worth of a Century, Palace 8pm locations, 2pm Chamber Music, Ilija M. Kolarac of Serbia, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina • Ballet: The Nutcracker • 24th Auteur Film Festival, different Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am 2, 1pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 28 (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in locations, 12.30pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Exhibition: Most KAkor kamen MONDAY NOVEMBER 26 • Cyrano (Rostand), National kost, Studentski Kulturni Centar, SUNDAY DECEMBER 2 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 5 Kralja Milana 48, 8pm 8.30pm • Soloists and Ensembles of School • Art, Science, Makers, different , Serbian th • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), for Music Talents Cuprija • 70 Anniversary of Institute of MONDAY NOVEMBER 26 locations, 8am Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Academy of Science and Arts, Knez Musicology of Serbian Academy • 12th Science Fair, Belgrade Fair, Milana 50, 8pm Mihailova 35, 6pm of Science and Arts, Ilija M. Kolarac • Energetics and Climate Change, Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 10am • Music School Dr Vojislav Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and THURSDAY NOVEMBER 29 Vuckovic, Belgrade Cultural Center, Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am MONDAY DECEMBER 3 Knez Mihailova 6, 8pm THURSADY DECEMBER 6 • Yugoslavia and Yugonostalgia, • The Sexual Neurosis of Our • Ligeti Ensemble, Belgrade Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • Art, Science, Makers, different • Belgrade Philharmonic Parents (Barfuss), National Philharmonic Orchestra, Bulevar Yorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Orchestra, Barnabas Kelemen locations, 6pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Studentski trg 11, 8pm • Comic Book Society, Dom (violin), Gabriel Feltz (conductor), 8.30pm • Ensemble “Stanislav Binicki”, Ilija Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, TUESDAY DECEMBER 4 • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Studentski trg 5, 8pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja trg 5, 8pm Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica • Ballet: Queen Margot (Bregovic), • The Philosophical Heritage of 4, 7pm Milana 50, 8pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Milorad Belancic, Institute for TUESDAY NOVEMBER 27 Francuska 3, 7.30pm Philosophy and Social Theory, FRIDAY NOVEMBER 30 TUESDAY NOVEMBER 27 • Choir of Faculty of Music, Ilija M. Kraljice Natalije 45/IV, 10am • The Great Drama (Kovacevic), Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • My Movie is Better than Yours, Dom National Theatre in Belgrade, 5, 8pm Exhibitions and Events Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 5 th Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Ballet: Women in D Minor / Long FRIDAY NOVEMBER 23 • 24 Auteur Film Festival, different • Balkan Spy (Kovacevic), National Christmas Dinner, National locations, 12.30pm • Exhibition: Pigmalion, Ivana Zivic, NLB Gallery, Bulevar Mihajla Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Scientific Conference • Cycle: Dictionaries of the Serbian Pupina 165v, 3pm 8.30pm 7.30pm “Challenges in Stroke VII”, Language since Vuk until Today, • Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), Serbian Academy of Science and Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 28 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 9am Studentski trg 5, 6pm THURSADY DECEMBER 06 Milana 50, 8pm • Cycle: Stimulus to the Creative • Cycle: Musicology and • Till Death Do Us Part (Furlan), • Jelica Gligorijevic (piano), Ilija M. and Researching Ideas of Ethnomusicology, Ilija M. Kolarac • International Queer Film Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Young People, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, Festival Merlinka, Dom Omladine, Milana 50, 8.30pm 5, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm 7.30pm Makedonska 22, 7pm

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