CRETE Spectacular Flowers & Wildlife 7 – 14 April 2015
TOUR REPORT
Leaders: Liz Charter & Tim Earl Local guide: Stella (at Lyknos)
Highlights
• Snow round our feet as we ate our picnics at Samaria Gorge. • The Robert’s giant orchids at Armeni late-Minoan burial site. Indeed, all the many orchid species, sub-species and hybrids seen on the tour were much enjoyed. • Sipping our first Cretan orange juice at Kournas lake-side while watching grebes. • Sheets of sand crocus at the Omalos pond. • Seeing booted eagle circling over us above Agia Lake. • Griffin vultures soaring over us at Selinari Gorge. • The big patch of Cretan tulips on Spili bump. • The little grebe and chick at Georgeopolis lake. • The seemingly never-ending taverna meal in Chania. • Dodging the gale by lying on our backs looking up at the cliffs in the Kourtaliotiko Gorge.
This was my 100th group tour for the Travelling Naturalist and marked Liz’s 10th year since her first Travelling Naturalist tour to Crete. It was outstanding as we enjoyed great birds and flowers, plus the celebrations of a Greek Orthodox Easter.
The weather was not altogether in our favour but careful choice of sites each day enabled us to make the most of the conditions as the species lists below will testify. We spent the cool days down at the coast and saved high altitude sites for later in the tour when the weather perked up.
Tuesday 7 April To Crete, Lake Kournas and Agia Marina Overcast Some sun, cool northerly breeze, 16°C We set off for our hotel in Agia Marina after an uneventful flight and lunch at Heraklion Airport. A few hooded crows and collared doves were seen along the roadside but there was more excitement in spotting the occasional buzzard and one short-toed eagle. Alpine swifts and a lone white wagtail were seen at a stop for fuel.
We broke the journey for freshly squeezed orange juice at a taverna on Lake Kournas which gave the opportunity to watch little grebes and listen to birds on the hillside behind. A single black-necked grebe was a surprise – they overwinter in Crete – and we had good views of Sardinian warblers, normally skulking critters. Singing cetti’s warblers were elusive as ever and attempts to find nightingales came to naught. Fringed rue (Ruta chalapensis) was a pungent but beautiful plant of the roadside here.
We enjoyed our fist supper together and a delicious bottle of red Greek wine before a briefing on the next day’s activities.
Wednesday 8 April Agia Lake, Tavronitis river, Kolimbari shore / harbour, Afrata village and Gorge Cool and overcast, a few showers getting heavier, light breeze, 12°C Our first full day in Crete was a cracker with excellent birds seen and ‘swarms’ of orchids among many other beautiful plants. We started early with a drive to nearby Agia Lake. Bits of fluff were seen dropping from old bulrush seed-heads the moment we arrived. Three penduline tits were the culprits, applying themselves to the task of ripping them to bits while we had great views. Our attention was diverted by a small bird creeping through the reeds. It was a little crake, the first of about four seen along the dam wall which created Agia Lake. Swallows and swifts were swooping low over the water but it was some time before I could identify some as pallid swifts.
A couple of squacco herons, several singing sedge warblers and a stunning male whinchat were found close by before we could even set off from our starting point. And as we looked back an immature glossy ibis flew in.
The birds kept coming as we explored the area but flowering plants were good too with a ‘swarm’ of tongued orchids (Serapias ), a few loose-flowered orchids (Anacamptis laxiflora), blue houndstongue (Cynoglossum creticum) and corky-fruited water-dropwort (Oenanthe pimpinelloides) among many others. Two quartering marsh harriers were seen (both females, one immature) while searching the sky revealed a passing Bonelli’s eagle which was joined by a booted eagle. A coffee stop overlooking the lake gave us delicious and well earned ‘elevenses’ (at noon) with tree sparrows and whinchats in the gardens below.
Stopping at the Tavronitis river paid dividends with good views of common sandpiper and little ringed plovers but it was the feeding activity of hirundines which produced the most interesting observation. (Barn) swallows, sand and house martins were feeding by skimming the river while a good eight meters above them red-rumped swallows were getting their grub. They never came lower while the others did not ascend.
A violent storm had sent mounds of shingle and rubble over the coast road to Kolimbari. We diverted inland and stopped immediately at a tiny flood-pond where a wood sandpiper was feeding at the edge along with several yellow wagtails of the Turkish race (Motacilla flava feldegg). We watched them for a little while when suddenly they were joined briefly by two Temminck’s stints. A purple heron objected to our presence and flew a short way to another field to be followed by three crested larks which whistled to confirm their identity. The botanical gem here was the asparagus pea (Lotus tetragonolobus), a red flowered legume sometimes eaten as a vegetable.
Lunch at Kolimbari harbour was a cool affair as the weather had deteriorated slightly but we still saw a pair of short-toed snake eagles over the escarpment behind us and heard several Sardinian warblers singing in the maquis scrub.
Our last outing was in Afrata gorge where we were thrilled to see a few pied flycatchers, a couple of blue tits and a pair of noisy kestrels. Our main quarry was blue rock thrush which we eventually found singing low down in the gorge. It was seen well, singing on a ledge to start with but flew across and into a bush on our side of the gorge where we watched it with some delight. By the tiny cave chapel grew endemic pants, Cretan yarrow (Achillea cretica) and the Cretan mullein (Verbascum arcturus).
Rain started as we walked back up the hill to Afrata where the bus was parked. The owner of a tiny taverna waved us in to rest and drink herb tea (made from dried sage, thyme and other ingredients gathered on the local hills) in front of an open log fire… bliss!
It was raining heavily by the time we returned to the hotel, and we enjoyed another good dinner. We retired to bed with some trepidation as the weather forecast for the next day was dreadful: storms and rain all day. Indeed, some of us woke at 4am to thunder and at 6am there was torrential rain.
Thursday 9 April Charnia, British and Commonwealth War Cemetary, Moronis river-mouth biotope. Stormy, heavy showers, cold wind, 9°C The weather forecast was not quite right and thanks to Liz’s planning we enjoyed a reasonable day. We went to Chania in the morning, dodging showers which fell on us and waves that washed over the harbour wall and around our feet!
Liz showed us around the town, particularly through narrow back streets she knew where 15th and 16th century Venetian and Turkish architecture could be seen and an old street light cowl which had goat shapes cut out of it. I pointed out a few pallid swifts which were investigating nest sites around the ancient harbour buildings while Liz showed the group plants growing on their walls! These included the endemic Cretan wall lettuce (Petromarula pinnata), a little Malcolmia (Malcolmia maritima) and flowering ivy-leaved toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis).
We had coffee and arranged to meet at the old mosque on the harbour-side. While the group went in for a bit of essential shopping Liz and I sorted out a ‘typical’ Greek lunch in a waterfront tavern. This was a celebratory meal of fantastic proportions, an extremely happy event staged around delicious and copious amounts of seafood and local vegetables, topped off with several yummy desserts. It was clear that we would need a good walk in the afternoon.
Sadly, it was not to be…..The storm worsened and rain began to fall during the meal and we set off for a walk at Souda Bay in heavy drizzle. It stopped as we reached the British and Commonwealth War Cemetery where we searched successfully for the grave of eminent Greek archaeologist John Pendlebury, a World War II hero who was shot by firing squad on 21 May, 1941. He had been active in the Cretan resistance and was, sadly, wearing local clothing when captured by the Germans (so not protected by the conventions of war). I pointed out seven whinchats feeding around the cemetery and perched on the grave-stones (many of which were marked ‘known only to God’) while Liz found another swarm of tongue orchids (Serapias spp). But the rain started as a black cloud came over and we retired to the bus to drive down to the Moronis river-mouth.
A short wait saw the rain ease and we braved the cold wind to look for birds: seven common sandpipers, a lone wood sandpiper and a little egret. A beautiful crown daisy (Chrysanthemum coronarium) was admired and photographed. I heard a singing great reed warbler but the gale and cold left it with little enthusiasm and we resolved to pay another visit in better conditions.
We returned to the hotel for an early supper and warm showers, happy with a day which could have been a wash-out. We hoped for better weather in the morning.
Friday 10 April (Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox Church) Moronis river-mouth, Chania airport, Akrotiri Peninsular, Botanical Park, Agia Lake X2 Strong wind, cold, heavy cloud, 10°C We had a great day for birds and flowers despite a strong wind, low temperatures and cloud. Stopping at Moronis river-mouth again paid great dividends with a singing serin, male pied flycatcher and a whinchat to welcome us.
A snoozing curlew sandpiper added spice to the mix. The curlew sandpiper had a pink flush as it was entering its breeding plumage. Clearly tired, it was roosting with downturned beak tucked into its plumage. The bird snoozed for a while before becoming hungry, or did the wood sandpiper disturb it? They were joined by a greenshank and a common sandpiper (one of several around the area) and all started feeding. The curlew sandpiper seemed the most successful getting at least four worms from the mud as we watched. Least successful seemed to be a little egret which chased small fish wildly in the shallows without seeming to get one. It was more successful later after calming down a little.
Our aim was to listen for great reed warbler and as we set off towards its great reed bed a kingfisher shot past us going down-river. It brought us luck when the great reed warbler opened up its voice box and sang as it moved slowly around the area never showing itself. We returned to the bus well pleased with our efforts and in time to see three more wood sandpipers along the river bank.
Our next planned stop was Chania airport for a comfort break which was followed by an unplanned visit to some likely wild cistus scrub (phrygana habitat) which was stunning with spring flowers. These included two species of cistus (C. salvifolius and C. parviflorus), tassel hyacinth (Muscari comosum), prolific pink (Kohlrauschia velutina) tongue orchids (Serapias sp) and many more.
Driving on to the Akrotiri peninsula, we stopped to admire a female kestrel perched on grape vines. Tom noticed a black and white bird nearby which was identified as a male black-eared wheatear. It was pale- throated and of the central European race O. h. melanoleuca. Instead of flying off it flew towards us and perched in a pile if sticks giving wonderful views. Liz called for another bird just as we were about to drive off: it turned out to be a male collared flycatcher which was keeping company with a female. While trying to get good views of them a serin was found and a nightingale gave a half-hearted snatch of song.
When we stopped to photograph the huge red flowers of dragon arum (Dracunculus vugaris) we heard chukar partridges calling, distracting us from a walk back to see the plants. John found a chukar in rocks close by and a couple more were seen soon afterwards. Jane made one of the discoveries of the day by the time the birds had disappeared: a spike of yellow bee-orchid (Ophrys lutea). Liz found pheasant eye (Adonis microcarpa) a rare arable weed in the UK, and discovered that her automatic camera ’saw’ it as an eye and focused accordingly (to her delight)!
We eventually wandered back to the dragon arums which were spectacular in size, colour and position, growing at the base of gnarled olive trees which must have been hundreds of years old.
Our adventures made time speed up and it was 11.55am when we arrived at the Gouvernetou Monastery which sadly closed its doors at noon! No matter. It was in a wind-swept spot and the monks must have been chilled. We drove back to the sunny warm courtyard of Agia Triada Monastery, with a stop on the way to look for serins which resulted in great views of a couple of hobbies. The monastery was beautiful, both in the well kept inner gardens and chapel which was ornate and dominated by a fresco of Christ looking down on us from a domed ceiling. Whinchats were common in the surrounding vineyards and a few Italian sparrows were hopping around the buildings.
Lunch was eaten at the side of a path into the Cretan Botanical Gardens. They were surrounded by wild tree heather (Erica arborea) and strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo).
Our last stop of the day was back at Agia lake which was teeming with barn and red-rumped swallows, house martins and a few common swifts. A blue-headed yellow wagtail (of the central European race M. f. flava) was most obliging hopping about on the side of the lake while we approached with ease to study it. A large flock of bathing yellow-legged gulls suddenly rose into the air and I urged people to look for the cause. Sure enough, a pale-phased booted eagle drifted over our heads, further dispersing the gulls, circled and returned giving us super views.
A search for calling scops owls took us back to the lake after supper but we heard none, nor were singing nightingales found. Gaps in clouds did allow us to do a little star-gazing with Jupiter, Venus, Orion, the Pleiades (Seven Sisters) and Plough all seen well. The Orion Nebula stood out as a spectacular highlight.
Saturday 11 April Armeni Minoan tombs, Kali Sikia Road, Kotsiphos Gorge, Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Spili plateau Cloud clearing, gale force wind, sunny, warmer, 13°C, 16°C out of the wind At last the weather improved and we were able to head up into Crete’s beautiful, mountainous hinterland, crossing the island to get views of its south coast. It was a flower-orientated day with wild orchids dominating. We did see collared flycatcher, our first griffon vultures and red-billed choughs but all were quite distant views.
However, the orchid bonanza began at the spectacular late-Minoan tombs at Armeni. The tombs were fascinating, carved out of sandstone with entrances well below ground level and steps roughly hewn down into them. Many had sealing-stones rolled away from the entrance presenting a sight most appropriate for Easter. The largest could be walked into and was illuminated inside. Besides the architecture of the tomb we also found several ‘cave crickets’, a millipede and a chiton. Long Cretan door snails were found along the entrances to many of the tombs.
But it was the sight of hundreds of orchids under vallonia oak (Quercus macrolepis – the one with the frilly acorn cups) woodland which proved the most interesting feature of the area. We found Robert’s giant orchid (Balia robertiana), sawfly orchid (Ophrys tenthredinifera) even before we arrived at the entrance gate. The sheer numbers of naked man (or Italian) orchids (Orchis italica) were impressive. They included one which was extremely dark. Yellow bee (Ophrys lutea) and woodcock (Ophrys scolopax) were also seen. Other notable plants included beautiful Heldreich’s (Anemone heldreichii) and crown anemones (A. coronaria), smart-looking friar’s cowl (Ariseama vulgare) and golden drops (Onosma graeca).
Our comfort stop was rather speeded up as we had given extra time at the tombs, so good was the show of orchids. The Pyrgos Taverna is well known among birding groups and we met another tour there over coffee. More importantly, we spotted our first griffon vultures above a distant escarpment and wondered how they coped in the gale force winds which included some mighty gusts. It was sad to see a vase full of naked man, monkey and Robert’s giant orchid flowers which had not only been picked but were being poured over approvingly by visiting botanists!
Driving on up into the mountains we stopped at a bridge on the Kali Sikia road where more orchids were found, including few-flowered (Orchis provincialis ssp pauciflora), man (Acerus anthropomorphus) and Cretan bee (Ophrys cretica). Cretan cyclamen (Cyclamen creticum) was also in flower.
Plans to walk the Kotsiphos gorge had to be dropped due to high winds funnelling through it and the risk of falling stones (many were littering the road surface). Instead we found a goat path which led to a sheltered area where we enjoyed our picnic lunches (prepared by ourselves each day from the vast breakfast buffet) in the company of blue rock thrushes, linnets and goldfinches. Another griffon was seen flying along a distant ridge. Yellow asphodels (Asphodeline lutea) were in bright flower and profusion.
The wind was beaten by us at the Kourtaliotiko Gorge where we were able to shelter behind a stone wall in a picnic area, lie on our backs and watch the tops of towering cliffs. This gave poor views of at least two red-billed choughs and a few griffons. It must be said that our experiences in the two gorges were disappointing, at least for we leaders, but the group’s safety had to come first.
Our last stops were at several sites on the Spili plateau, a well-known area for outstanding botany. Three days relentless gales had burnt many of the flowers, at least on the exposed slopes, but where shelter could be had there were wonderful specimens to be admired and photographed. Highlight species included abundant numbers of milky orchids (Orchis lactea), the diminutive mirror (Ophrys omegaifera), Bory’s (Orchis boryi), few-flowered (Orchis provincialis) and sawfly orchids (Ophrys tenthredinifera). One toothed orchid (Orchis tridentata) was seen and photographed. A small group of bumblebee orchids (Ophrys bombyliflora) and a bishops’s bee (Ophrys episcopalis) were also seen. There were occasional bushes of Daphne sericea and a big clump of rather wind-blown Cretan tulips (Tulipa cretica).
One stop overlooked the spectacular and greatly snow-capped Mount Ida but hoped-for Fritillaria messanensis flowers were still only in bud as were Tulipa doerfleri. Another griffon went past and the feint song of woodlark was heard above the gale.
It was with reluctance that we dragged ourselves away and headed back to the hotel, arriving at 6.45pm, a little later than usual. Yet another excellent meal was enjoyed, made the better by fabulous memories and great photographs of some of the most spectacular flowers to be seen in the Mediterranean basin.
Sunday 12 April Agia lake, Ormalos plateau, Samaria gorge, Agia Irini gorge Clear, sunny, little wind, pleasantly warmer, 19°C, 6cm of snow at Samaria gorge At last! The day dawned clear, sunny with no wind and we had set the high pass at Samaria gorge as our target for a picnic lunch. We were in for a surprise…
It seemed churlish not to call in at our favourite Agia Lake but there was nothing new to be seen and most of the ‘goodies’ were absent. A few sedge warblers were still singing around the pond, there were masses of hirundines and a Balkan terrapin was pretending to be a submarine periscope in the middle of the lake. We drove on upwards, ever upwards stopping occasionally to take in the increasingly stunning view and see what birds were around. A (northern) wheatear was singing at one road-side spot, listened to by a chukar which was perched on a rock a few meters above the road posing for pictures. Three griffon vultures wheeled around gaining height before slipping past us giving wonderful views. Tempted by the chance that they could be followed by a bearded vulture (lammergeier) we lingered listening to the songs of wheatear, woodlark and jay (more like raucous calls… Ed!).
The desire for comfort and coffee took us onwards towards the Gigalo café on the Omalos plateau, except that we stopped to photograph cute goat kids and found a hot-spot for birds. (Northern) wheatears were the first spotted chasing each other around in territorial disputes. There were a few males involved in the sparring indicating that they are common breeders on the plateau. That was reinforced by the sighting of many spread over the plateau later.
A cirl bunting flew across the road, posed for a short while and then took part in territorial chasing which was reinforced by a long spell of singing (having seen off the competition). A few crag martins seemed to be interested in a huge cave which could have hosted their nest-sites.
The café was close by and we finally left the birds to it. Coffee, mountain tea and hot chocolate ordered, we set too looking for the authors of songs: firstly a wryneck which could not be located but the search for which led Liz to a couple of flowering sand crocuses (Romulea bulbocodium). The second singers were woodlarks which flew in close to us but then hid behind low scrubby bushes. Glimpses were obtained
through the telescope, however. This activity was carried out to the delicious smells of a lamb being barbequed for the Greek Easter lunch. It looked macabre but the smell was mouth-watering.
A corn bunting jangled away long enough for me to find it but then flew away once the telescope was trained on it. We did see a few ‘Italian’ sparrows and at least three buzzards before leaving.
Stopping for a huge sheep flock to cross the road, a field full of Cretan tulips (Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri) was found by Liz so we piled out for a look. They were only in bud and many had been flattened by recent snow, some of which still lingered. I found a pair of woodchat shrikes which behaved well enough for everyone to get a look through the ‘scope’. Another wryneck was calling close by but diligent searching failed to find that one either.
We drove onwards and upwards arriving at the Samaria Gorge visitors’ centre to find the whole area under six centimetres of snow but in bright, warm sun. This produced some weird photo opportunities as I was dressed in shorts and sandals! A few red-billed choughs passed overhead making their distinctive calls as were several ravens which were in the area. Crag martins were swooping around and Sardinian warblers sang surrounded by snow! It was an amazing experience. The view down the gorge was stunning and we posed with snow up to our ankles and a white backdrop on the mountains behind.
Exploring the Omalos plateau further after our snow-picnic Liz took us to fields which should have been blue with flowering anemones (Anemone coronaria). But they were covered with snow instead with only isolated snowless patches had the flowers in bloom. The Cretan barberry (Berberis cretica) was not yet in leaf and the wild pink tulip (Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri) was in bud. A few Cretan tulips were seen in bud but they too were late this year. A few flowering green and black widow irises (Hermodactylus tuberosus) were found poking out of the snow, a real highlight.
An area with ponds was interesting for the sheets of sand crocuses (Romulea bulbocodium) in flower, a superb sight. One pond had ten wood sandpipers standing around it with another six nearby. (Northern) wheatears were numerous, a female common redstart was seen and two woodlarks picked around on the ground near us long enough for everyone who wanted to get a picture.
We dropped down the south slope from the plateau to visit Agia Irini gorge but it was quiet for birds. Cretan alexanders (Smyrnium creticum) and Cretan cyclamen were interesting and the little blue-flowered spring rockcress (Arabis verna) quite charming. The speciality of the gorge is a chasmophyte – tree flax (Linum arboretum) and its bright yellow blooms were found high up on a cliff.
We returned to the hotel in time for a shower before another delicious meal and the call-over which covered two days.
Monday 13 April Georgioupolis lake, Petres river-mouth, Knossos archaeological site, Aposelemis marsh. Clear, sunny, little wind, warm, 22°C Travelling days are rarely good for watching wildlife but today was a pleasant exception. In addition, we visited the fascinating Minoan site at Knossos where archaeology was combined with birds, flowers (a little campanula) and reptiles seen.
Our first stop on the long drive to Knossos was at Georgioupolis lake, a beautiful spot just off the national highway, fed by cold clear springs and fringed with water-plants, brambles and rushes. Among the birds seen was a little grebe which had a tiny chick following it and a much larger youngster (from an earlier brood?) nearby. There were many coots and a sedge warbler was blogging around in rushes and a pile of sticks.
Coffee and comfort were taken nearby at a super little port (Georgioupolis) where we watched local fishermen selling the day’s catch many of which were still alive. Among them were John Dory, wrasse, grouper, red mullet and a weird lobster none of us had seen before (Slipper Lobster?).
A few minutes after setting off we stopped at Petres river-mouth which had a steep gorge behind it. A flowering mandrake attracted much attention as its scientific name is Mandragora officinalis. Jackdaws, one griffon and kestrel were seen up the gorge while common sandpiper and little egret were in the river mouth.
Knossos was the subject of a briefing by Liz as we drove along the national highway, preparing us for the visit to these rather enigmatic ruins. All explanations on boards around the site had the codicil “according to Evans,” references to Sir Arthur Evans who excavated the site and postulated the uses its constituent parts and rooms were put to. There seemed to be considerable scope for conjecture!
Three hoopoes were seen as we entered or within the site (there is definitely a sub-species of this bird called H. epops ssp archaeologicalii) a pair of collared flycatchers were seen in its fringing pines and a cuckoo put in a very brief appearance. Two species of reptile were seen: a smooth shiny oscellated skink and a rough, spiny green lizard which turned out to be Kotschy’s gecko. Growing on the ruins was a tiny bellflower (Campanula erinus).
Wildlife highlight of the day was a walk down to Aposelemis marsh after we had checked in to our hotel nearby (our rooms overlooked the marsh but hedging trees had grown considerably since Liz’s last tour). A small trawler was passing as we left the hotel trailing a line of following yellow-legged gulls. A few Cory’s shearwaters were seen among them to our delight. Along the upper shore we identified three-horned stock (Matthiola tricuspidata).
A roosting tern seen at first through heat-haze on the beach turned out (geddit?) to be gull-billed. We could clearly see the stubby all-black bill and smooth black cap which ran down its neck. It eventually flew over us giving great views. It re-terned ! a few minutes later carrying a crab, ate it and settled in a puddle to digest the meal.
The salt-marsh has lots of pools which normally hold good numbers of waders but we could find only a few common sandpipers until a group containing little ringed plover, wood and curlew sandpipers was found. We flushed a large brown wader with black and white flecked wings – a stone curlew, always a good species to find. It proceeded to do a circuit around us before heading off to disappear in stony ground on the other side of the Aposelemis river. Two grey herons were found as we searched for it unsuccessfully. Liz was sure that one of the paths led to the river and in her abortive search for the north-west passage she flushed a little bittern that dropped out of sight at the end of its flight. Seeing it was meant to be. A squacco heron was much more obliging and we were all able to see its long plumes and ginger-coloured neck. A common starling (our only one of the trip, a remnant of Crete’s overwintering population) bathing nearby looked odd until we realised it had no tail! We could only conjecture about the tale it might tell.
Our walk ended at a wire on which another yellow wagtail of the race M. f. feldegg was perched with at least six whinchats. Liz spotted a curious plant, a large sea lavender (Limoneastrum monopetalum). We returned to the hotel and a discovery: all our drinks were included in the tariff! It was a short-lived thrill as only the lager, served in small glasses was worth drinking.
Our final dinner together was a happy occasion despite this and we retired determined to make the most of the following morning before our return to Gatwick.
Tuesday 14 April Aposelemis marsh revisited, Selinari gorge, Malia Clear, sunny, little wind, warm, 22°C A 6.30 start saw some of us creeping around the marsh following yesterday’s route. We found two or three short-toed larks, a little stint and marsh sandpiper before heading back to the hotel for a 7.15 breakfast and swift departure. The reason for this was to arrive at the Selinari gorge in time to see the “griffon vulture show”. They roost on the surrounding cliffs then take off for their day’s carrion foraging.
Only a few vultures could be seen on arrival but gradually we got our eyes in and started seeing them high on the rocks. That many were taking off for trial flights was a great help. We had a fantastic time for 45 minutes as birds crossed the gorge, visited nest sites (one even started tearing up grass and dropping it down a cliff!) and soared up on increasingly strong thermals. They were joined for a while by a female peregrine which really upset the local hooded crows and pigeon. The male of a pair of blue rock thrushes was stunning and posed for us on a nearby rocky peak, while kestrels called as they flew around their nesting territory. Underfoot there were white marjorum (Origanum onites) and another Phlomis (Phlomis lanata), our last Cretan endemic. Of 1735 plant species, 159 occur on Crete alone and are described as endemic (marked # below).
We dropped down the old road to walk past the archaeological site at Malia towards a likely-looking reed bed. Many butterflies were seen in the warm conditions and a hoopoe headed for the site while Sardinian warblers rattled out their songs. Flowering wild gladioli (Gladiolus italicus) were photographed and Ray was pinned down by a cat which leaped into his lap when he sat on a rock for a rest. It was a delightful way to conclude our time in Crete, in air heavy with the aroma of herbs and a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.
We left for the airport in good time, caught our flight which took off punctually and returned home with memories of short-toed larks, griffons, gladioli and mountains!
ANNOTATED LIST OF SPECIES SEEN
PLANTS
Numbers refer to numbers in Marjory Blamey’s book wildflowers of the Mediterranean. XX– plants not in Blamey’s book. Those marked # are endemic to Crete, and those marked @ are endemic to Crete, Karpathos and sometimes other regional islands (Lance Chilton’s Plant List for Crete 2000).
Gymnosperms Conifers XX Araucaria heterophylla Norfolk Island pine Frequently planted. 1. Pinus halapensis ssp brutia Aleppo pine On mountains above Omalos. 11 Cupressus sempervirens Italian cypress Widespread. 15 Juniperus oxycedrus ssp oxycedrus Prickly juniper On mountain slopes as we approached Omalos plateau. Angiosperms Dicotyledons 24 Quercus coccifera Kermes oak (evergreen) On the way to Omalos. 28 Quercus macrolepis Valonia oak At Armeni.
41 Morus alba White mulberry Widespread, heavily pruned. 48 Urtica pilulifera Roman nettle Seen in Afrata gorge. 78 Rumex bucephalophorus Red sea dock Seen on the shore at Aposelemis. 85 Salicornia europea agg Glasswort Found in abundance at Souda and Aposelemis. 93 Sueada maritima annual seablite Found at Aposelemis. 94 Sueada vera Shrubby seablite Found at Aposelemis. 110 Bougainvillea glabra Bougainvillea Common in gardens. 115 Caprobrotus edulis Hottentot fig Planted and naturalised. 176 Silene gallica Small-flowered catchfly Frequent on waste ground. 180 Silene colorata Aposelemis. 187 Kohlrauschia velutina Proliferous pink Several places. 211 Anemone coronaria Crown anemone Omalos plateau. 215 Anemone hortensis Armeni and Spili bump. ssp heldreichii 222 Adonis microcarpa Pheasant’s eye On the road up to Gouvernatou monastery. XX Ranunculus creticus Cretan gorge buttercup Kali Sikia road gorge in seed. 251 Ranunculus sceleratus Celery leaved buttercup Common, first seen near Agia lake. 257 Ranunculus asiaticus turban buttercup Near Gouvernatou monastery. 239 Ranunculus sardous Hairy Buttercup The delicate buttercup by Agia lake. XX Batrachium Ranunculus sp. Water crowfoot Omalos pond. XX Berberis cretica Cretan barberry Common on Omalos plateau. 283 Papaver rhoeas Common poppy Common on disturbed ground. 293 Glaucium flavum Yellow-horned poppy Petres river mouth and by national road rr Malia. 303 Fumaria capreolata Ramping fumitory Common on disturbed ground. 316 Malcolmia maritima Virginia stock On warehouse buildings in Chania. 322 Arabis verna Spring rockcress Agia Irini Gorge on rocks 324 Aubrieta deltoidea Aubrieta Above Samaria gorge in the snow. 329 Matthiola tricuspidata Three-horned stock On the shore at Aposelemis. 341 Biscutella didyma Buckler mustard Common. 363 Cakale maritime Sea rocket Aposelemis. XX Sedum creticum var monocarpicum? Rosette stonecrop Seen in Irini gorge. 400 Platanus orientalis Plane Common in valleys among the hills. 411Sarcopoterium spinosum Thorny burnet Common on dry hillsides. 420 Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Common on Omalos plateau and by Kournas lake. XX Pyrus spinosa Wild pear Afrata and on Omalos plateau.
421 Prunus dulcis Almond In gardens. 428 Rubus sanctus Bramble Common especially Agia and Kournas. 429 Eriobotrys japonica Loquat Planted in gardens. 430 Cercis siliquastrum Judas tree Planted by Agia lake. 431 Ceratonia siliqua Carob, locust tree Common at Akrotiri. 432 Acacia sp. Mimosa sp. Along the national road. 453 Calycotome villosa Hairy Thorny broom Common on hillsides. 481 Spartium junceum Spanish broom Along the national road. 484 Lupinus pilosus Hairy lupin At Souda bay rough area. 508 Bituminaria bituminosa Pitch trefoil Very common. 549 Lathyrus annuas Annual yellow vetch Occasional. 598 Medicago arborea Tree medick Planted at Agia lake. 651 Trifolium uniflorum One-flowered clover Spili bump. 652 Trifolium fragiferum Strawberry clover Near Agia lake. 658 Trifolium tomentosum Woolly trefoil At Afrata roadside. 662 Trifolium stellatum Star clover Spili. 682 Tetragonolobus purpureus Asparagus (winged) pea By the shore near Kolimbari and at Souda. 691 Anthyllus tetraphylla On the road up to Gouvernatou. 735 Oxalis pes-caprae Bermuda buttercup Very common in single and double forms. 741 Geranium molle Dovesfoot cranesbill Near Agia lake dam. 747 Geranium robertianum Herb robert Common. 769 Linum arboreum Tree flax Seen in Agia Irini gorge. 777 Linum bienne Pale flax Seen at Souda bay. 792 Euphorbia dendroides Tree euphorbia Common on hillsides eg on the way to Afrata. 794 Euphorbia acanthothamnos Greek Spiny spurge Spili. 818 Euphorbia characias Mediterranean spurge Spili 820 Mercurialis annua Annual mercury On farmland. 824 Ricinus communis Castor oil plant Near the back of Agia lake. 827 Ruta chalapensis Fringed rue Kournas lake. 843 Melia azederach Indian bead tree Seen in Afrata. 846 Polygala myrtifolia South African milkwort Agia lake and Galini hotel, planted. 865 Pistachia lentistus Lentisc (mastic tree) Agia Gouvernatou monastery road. 898 Malva sylvestris Common mallow Very common, first seen at Agia lake. 938 Daphne sericea Daphne At Spili and on the way to Omalos. 942 Thymelaea hirsuta Thymelaea Petres river mouth roadside. 950 Hypericum empetrifolium Crowberry leaved St Johns wort On the Kali Sikia road. 964 Cistus parviflorus Small-flowered cistus Akrotiri roadside. 965 Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved cistus Akrotiri roadside and on the way to Omalos. 1032 Ecballium elaterium Squirting cucumber Agia lake and Knossos. 1081 Eryngium campestre Field eryngo Spili and elsewhere. 1087 Smyrnium olusatrum Alexanders Common. 1088 Smyrnium perfoliatum Perfoliate alexanders Spili. XX Smyrnium creticum Celery leaved alexanders At Agia Irini gorge. 1097 Scandix pecten-veneris Shepherds needle By Kournas lake. XX Berula erecta False water parsnip In the spring-fed pool at Agia. 1106 Oenanthe pimpineloides Corky-fruited water dropwort Behind Agia lake. 1108 Foeniculum vulgare Common fennel Widespread. 1141 Ferula communis Giant fennel Roadsides eg Kournas lake. 1149 Tordylium apulum Tordylium Common by roadsides eg at Kournas. 1168 Daucus carota Wild carrot At Malia on last day. 1176 Arbutus unedo Strawberry tree Seen first at Botanical Park and on the way up to Omalos.
1178 Erica arborea Tree heather Seen first at the Botanical Park and on the way up to Omalos. 1198 Anagallis arvensis var .caerulea Blue pimpernel Common. 1208 Cyclamen creticum # Cretan cyclamen Kali Sikia, Agia Irini and Afrata gorges. 1220 Limonium sinuatum Winged sea lavender Aposelemis near Europa hotel. 1234 Limoniastrum monopetalum Limoniastrum One plant at back of Aposelemis marsh. 1238 Styrax officinalis Storax Seen by Kournas lake. 1248 Olea europea Olive Common, planted. 1256 Nerium oleander Oleander Commonly planted especially where the Omalos road had been widened. 1331 Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved bindweed Akrotiri. 1365 Onosma graeca Goldendrop Armeni and Spili. 1380 Echium italicum Pale bugloss Common although not yet flowering. 1382 Echium angustifolium Red bugloss Aposelemis, near Europa hotel. 1383 Echium plantagineum Purple viper's bugloss Common on roadsides. 1395 Borago officinalis Borage Common. 1402 Cynoglossum creticum Blue houndstongue First seen by the springs at Agia lake. 1409 Anchusa azurea (now italica) Large blue alkanet Along the roadside near Malia palace. 1417 Lantana camara Lantana Non-native on waste ground, gardens and roadsides 1442 Teucrium pollum Roadside on Akrotiri 1444 Prasium majus Prasium Common incl Afrata orge and Kali Sikia road. 1470 Ballota pseudodictamnus Horehound Afrata 1535 Salvia officinalis Meadow sage First seen at Kournas 1455 Phlomis fruticosa Jerusalem sage Very common starting at Kournas. 1459 Phlomis lanata # In Selinari Gorge and At Malia palace. 1518 Origanum onites White marjoram In Selinari gorge. 1520 Orignum dictamnus # Dittany Planted in Botanical Park. 1528 Lavandula stoechas French lavender Seen by Agia lake. 1537 Salvia triloba (fruticosa) Three-leaved sage Common in thorny scrub, first seen at Kournas. 1574 Mandragora officinarum Mandrake Petres river mouth 1582 Nicotiana glauca Shrubby tobacco Common around Iraklion on national road. Invasive 1586 Scophularia peregrina Nettle-leaved figwort Common 1587 Scrophularia lucida Shining figwort Afrata roadside, Agia lake and other places. XX Verbascum macrurum Mullein Big seed pods seen on the Omalos plateau. 1601 Verbascum sinuatum Wavy mullein Common. Seen first at Agia lake. Not in flower 1606 Verbascum arcturus # Cretan mullein In flower atAfrata gorge and on buildings Knossos? 1621 Linaria pelisseriana Jersey toadflax Akrotiri roadside stop. 1632 Cymbalaria muralis Ivy leaved toadflax Seen in Chania on buildings. 1651 Parentucellia viscosa Yellow bartsia Souda bay cemetery. 1652 Parentucellia latifolia Found on the dam at Agia Lake 1655 Orobanche ramosa Branched Broomrape Common including by Kournas lake. 1675 Orobanche pubescens Hairy broomrape Common, including Afrata, parasitic on umbellifers.
1704 Plantago cretica Cretan plantain Common. 1721 Valeriana asarifolia @ Cretan valerian Seen in Kali Sikia gorge at on Spili bump. 1736 Knautia integrifolia Field scabious Common by roads but few flowering yet. 1774 Campanula erinus Annual bellflower On ruins of Knossos 1786 Petromarula pinnata # Cretan wall-lettuce Common on old buildings in Chania. 1831 Phagnalon graecum Shaving-brush bush Common. 1847 Pallenis spinosa Yellow spine thistle Common. 1884 Chamaemelum nobile Chamomile Along Kournas roadside.
1870 Anthemis rigida Rayless chamomile By the sea wall in Chania and at Aposelemis. 1881 Achillea cretica Cretan yarrow Afrata gorge. 1892 Otanthus maritimus Cottonweed Seen at Aposelemis shore by the hotel. 1895 Chrysanthemum coronarium Crown daisy Common especially at Knossos and Tavronitis river 1920 Carlina corymbosa Branched carline thistle Common but noted at Omalos. 1965 Picnomon acarna Picnomon Afrata gorge and Kali Sikia road. 1971 Galactites tomentosa Galactites thistle Very common everywhere. 2055 Tragopogon porrifolius Salsify Common on waste ground (big clocks seen at Malia). Monocotyledons 2089 Asphodelus aestivus Common asphodel Common on dry hillsides, in bud on higher slopes. 2092 Asphodeline lutea Yellow asphodel Seen in Kotsiphos gorge by the track where we had lunch. 2102 Gagea graeca Greek lloydia On rocky outcrops including Armeni. 2143 Tulipa doerfleri # Doerfler’s Tulip Only in bud in Spili fields. 2145 Tulipa saxatilis ssp bakeri @ Cretan rock tulip Patches on Omalos plateau. 2147 Tulipa cretica # Cretan tulip On Spili bump. 2151 Fritillaria messanensis Fritillary In bud above Spili. 2163 Drimia maritima (Urginia maritima) Sea squill Common on hillsides, leaves only. 220X Muscari comosum Tassel hyacinth Common – especially Armeni and Akrotiri roadside stops. 2222 Smilax aspera Rough bindweed First seen at Kournas, very common. 2224 Allium roseum Rosy garlic Seen at Souda bay and outside our hotel rooms at Galini. 2237 Allium ampeloprasum Wild leek Seen in Afrata. 2253 Agave americana Century plant Commonly planted, noted first in Afrata. 2270 Pancratium maritimum Sea daffodil Leaves only on sandy beaches such as Aposelemis. 2283 Hermodactylus tuberosus Widow iris In flower on Omalos plateau among snow. 2290 Iris pseudacorus Yellow iris By Agia lake. 2285 Iris unguicularis Cretan iris Leaves only at Kali Sikia road and on ssp cretica @ Spili bump 2307 Gladiolus italicus Field gladiolus Common in cultivated places under olives such as at Malia. 2306 Gynadriris monophylla Single leaved Barbary nut Flowers were either gone over or buds at Spili. 2368 Arum creticum @ Cretan arum Common in the Kali Sikia gorge and lunch site at Kotsiphos. 2358 Dracunculus vulgaris Dragon arum Seen in several places, especially Akrotiri & Malia. 2377 Arisarum vulgare Friar’s cowl Armeni and Irini gorge. 2399 Aceras anthropophorum Man orchid Kali Sikia road gorge, and above Spili 2402 Orchis boryi @ Bory’s orchid The Spili bump. 2409 Orchis italica Naked man orchid Armeni graves, Spili bump. 2417 Orchis provincialis Provence orchid Spili bump 2417a Orchis provincialis Few-flowered orchid Kali Sikia road gorge ssp pauciflora 2419 Orchis quadripunctata Four-spotted orchid Kali Sikia road gorge. 2408 Orchis lactea Milky orchid Many on Spili bump 2420 Anacamptis laxiflora Lax-flowered orchid Agia lake pasture. 2407 Orchis tridentata Toothed orchid One seen at Spili 2423 Ophrys lutea ssp lutea Yellow bee orchid Akrotiri, Omalos, Armeni, Spili bump. (O. phryganae) 2424 Ophrys fusca Brown bee orchid Group seen on Spili bump. 2425 Ophrys omegaifera Omega orchid One seen Spili bump (P). ssp fleischmannii @
2436c Ophrys scolopax Marengo (woodcock) orchid Seen at Armeni (only form of ssp heldreichii woodcock occurring on Crete) 2437 Ophrys cretica @ Cretan bee orchid Kali Sikia road gorge. XX Ophrys tenthredinifera Sawfly orchid Abundant at Armeni and Spili XX Ophrys episcopalis Bishop’s bee orchid Photographed at Spili 2444 Ophrys bombyliflora Bumblebee orchid Small group photographed at Spili XXX Serapias bergonii Tongue orchid Souda bay war cemetery 2450a Serapias orientalis Eastern tongue orchid Agia lake 2451 Serapias lingua Tongue orchid Agia lake, Armeni and many other places. 2452 Serapias parviflora Small-flowered tongue orchid Agia lake and other places. 2460 Briza maxima Giant quaking grass Common. XX Briza media Common quaking grass Seen at Souda bay cemetery. 2473 Lagurus ovatus Haresfoot grass Common including by Moronis river. 2494 Arundo donax Giant reed Common wetland plant. XX Juncus maritimus Sea rush Seen at Moronis river mouth. XX Phragmites australis Reed Agia lake and Georgeopoli lake. 2314 Romulea bulbocodium Sand crocus Sheets of flowers around temporary pool on Omalos plateau.
Pteridophyta Ferns and horsetails 2501 Selaginella denticulata Lesser clubmoss Kali Sikia road 2516 Equisetum telemeteia Giant horsetail At Agia Lake.
BIRDS
SHEARWATERS Family Procellariidae Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea borealis One distantly at Kolimbari harbour; several following fishing boat Aposelemis marsh. GREBES Family Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis A few on Lake Kournas; three on Agia lake; a few seen at Georgioupolis lake. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis One seen on Lake Kournas. IBISES, SPOONBILLS Family Threskiornithidae Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus An immature bird seen at Agia lake. HERONS, BITTERNS Family Ardeidae Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus One seen in flight at Aposelemis marsh Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax One seen at Agia lake. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Several seen at Agia lake; one seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea One seen at Agia lake; two seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea One seen behind Kolimbari beach; one seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Little Egret Egretta garzetta A few seen at Agia lake; four seen at the Aposelemis marsh. CORMORANTS Family Phalacrocoracidae Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo One seen at Chania harbour; one seen at Agia lake; one seen off Aposelemis marsh.
FALCONS Family Falconidae Kestrel Falco tinnunculus A few seen daily; one noisy breeding pair in Afrata gorge; pair seen in Selinari gorge. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo Two seen at Agia Triada Monastery. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus A female seen in Selinari gorge. RAPTORS Family Pandionidae / Accipitridae Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus A few seen on 'the gorges' excursion; three seen near Omalos plateau; one seen at Petres river- mouth gorge; many roosting, taking off for the day and nesting in Selinari gorge; a 'kettle' of 17 seen nearby at a coffee stop. Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus One seen between Heraclion Airport and Agia Marina; a pair over the escarpment behind Kolimbari harbour. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Two females, one immature, seen at Agia lake. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo A few seen almost daily. Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus One seen at Agia lake. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus One seen at Agia lake in the company of the above. RAILS, CRAKES & COOTS Family Rallidae Little Crake Porzana parva At least three seen at Agia lake. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Two seen at Agia lake; a few at Georgioupolis lake. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra A few seen at Agia lake and Georgioupolis lake. LAPWINGS & PLOVERS Family Charadriidae Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Three seen in the Tavronitis river; a pair seen at the Aposelemis marsh. WADERS Family Scolopacidae Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis One seen in Aposelemis marsh. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia One seen at the Moronis river-mouth; one seen in Aposelemis marsh. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Four seen at Agia lake; seven seen at the Moronis river; two or three seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola One seen behind Kolimbari beach; four seen at the Moronis river; 16 seen on the Omalos plateau; one seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Little Stint Calidris minuta One seen in Aposelemis marsh. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Two seen behind Kolimbari beach. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea One seen at the Moronis river-mouth; one seen at the Aposelemis marsh. GULLS & TERNS Family Laridae Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis Abundant, seen daily. Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica One seen with a crab in its beak at the Aposelemis marsh. PIGEONS & DOVES Family Columbidae Common Pigeon Columba livia Abundant, seen daily. Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus One seen near Agia lake. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Abundant, seen daily. CUCKOOS Family Cuculidae Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus One heard in the Agia Irini gorge; one seen at Knossos archaeological site; one seen in Selinari gorge. SWIFTS Family Apodidae Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Fairly common, flocks seen on four days. Common Swift Apus apus Common, seen daily. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus A few seen and heard at Agia lake and in Chenia.
KINGFISHERS Family Alcedinidae Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis One seen at the Moronis river-mouth. HOOPOES Family Upupidae Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops At least three seen at Knossos archaeological site; one at Malia archaeological site. WOODPECKERS Family Picidae Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla Two heard on the Omalos plateau. SHRIKES Family Laniidae Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator Three seen on the Omalos plateau; one seen at the Aposelemis marsh. CROWS, JAYS Family Corvidae Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Six seen near the Omalos plateau. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Two seen in the Kourtaliotiko gorge; a few seen and heard above the Samaria gorge. Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula A few seen at the Kotsiphos gorge. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix Abundant, seen daily. Northern Raven Corvus corax Three seen between Heraclion Airport and Agia Marina; a pair nesting in Afrata gorge; common on and near the Omalos plateau. TITS & CHICKADEES Family Paridae Great Tit Parus major Common, seen daily. Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus A pair seen in the Afrata gorge. SWALLOWS, MARTINS Family Hirundinidae Sand Martin Riparia riparia A few seen at the Tavronitis river. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common, seen in numbers daily. Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Lots seen near the Omalos plateau and in the Samaria gorge; a few at the Petres river-mouth gorge; a few seen in Selinari gorge. Northern House Martin Delichon urbicum A few seen daily. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Several seen at the Tavronitis river. LARKS Family Alaudidae Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Two or three seen in Aposelemis marsh. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Three seen behind Kolimbari beach; quite a few seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Woodlark Lullula arborea One heard at the 'dragon arum' stop near Agia Triada Monestary; one heard on the Spili plateau; several hear and seen on the Omalos plateau. OLD WORLD WARBLERS Family Sylviidae Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Common heard daily, even from our hotel rooms! Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus One heard at the Moronis river. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus A few seen and heard singing at Agia lake. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus One seen at Agia lake. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Two seen at Agia lake; one heard at the Moronis river. Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Common, heard singing almost everywhere, a few seen. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Abundant, seen daily. STARLINGS Family Sturnidae Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris One with no tail seen bathing at the Aposelemis marsh. THRUSHES Family Turdidae Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Common, seen daily.
FLYCATCHERS Family Muscicapidae Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos One heard briefly near Agia Triada Monastery. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Several seen at Agia lake and in the Afrata gorge; seven seen at the British War Cemetery; seven seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Eurasian Stonechat Saxicola torquatus A male seen at Agia lake.; a few on the two days in the uplands, a pair seen at the Aposelemis marsh. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Lots seen on the Omalos plateau. Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica One seen near the Agia Triada Monestary; one seen near the Omalos plateau. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius A male heard singing and found in the Afrata gorge; two seen in the Kotsiphos gorge; a pair seen in Selinari gorge. European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca A few seen in the Afrata gorge; a male seen at the Moronis river-mouth. Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis At least three seen at Agia Triada Monastery; a male and female seen at Knossos archaeological site. Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata A male seen briefly at the Armeni Minoan tombs could not be relocated. SPARROWS Family Passeridae House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common, some of the 'Italian' type. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Several seen at Agia lake. ACCENTORS Family Prunellidae Dunnock Prunella modularis Heard singing at Agia lake. WAGTAILS & PIPITS Family Motacillidae Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Several of the Turkish race M. f. feldegg seen behind Kolimbari beach, a male seen at the Aposelemis marsh; a male of the central European race M. f. flava seen at Agia lake; a male of the SE Russian race M. f. superciliaris seen in Aposelemis marsh. FINCHES Family Fringillidae Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Common, seen daily. European Serin Serinus serinus A few seen near the Agia Triada Monastery. European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Common, seen daily. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Common, seen daily. Eurasian Linnet Carduelis cannabina A small flock seen in the Kotsiphos gorge; two seen near the Omalos plateau.
BUNTINGS & ALLIES Family Emberizidae Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra One seen near the Minoan tombs at Armeni; two seen on the Omalos plateau. Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus Two or three seen near the Omalos plateau.
MAMMALS
OTTERS, WEASELS & BADGERS Family Mustelidae Beech Marten Martes foina Many seen as road causalities. Least Weasel Mustela nivalis One seen running across the road at Agia lake. Eurasian Badger Meles meles A few seen as road causalities. MOONRATS & HEDGEHOGS Family Erinaceidae Eastern Hedgehog Erinaceus concolor One road casualty seen on our way to Knossos.
REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS
TOADS Family Bufonidae Green toad Bufo viridis Spawn and tadpoles seen on the Omalos plateau. FROGS Family Ranidae Marsh (Lake) Frog Rana ridibunda Common in freshwater ponds and tanks. Cretan Frog Pelophylax cretensis Seen and heard at Kourna Lake. American bull frog Lithobates catesbeiana Heard and seen at Agia Lake. TERRAPINS Family Emydidae Balkan Terrapin Mauremys rivulata Seen at Agia Lake and Georgeopolis Lake. Red-eared Slider Trachemys scripta Seen at Agia Lake. GECKOES Family Gekkonidae Kotschy's Gecko Cyrtodactylus kotschyi Two seen at Knossos. TYPICAL LIZARDS Family Lacertidae Balkan green lizard Lacerta trilineata A few seen. Cretan wall lizard Podarcis cretensis Fairly common on warm days. SKINKS Family Scincidae Ocellated skink Chalcides ocellatus Singles seen at Agia Lake and Knossos.
FLUTS & MOTHS
SWALLOWTAILS Family Papilionidae Swallowtail Papilio machaon Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius WHITES & YELLOWS Family Pieridae Large White Pieris brassicae Small White Pieris rapae Clouded Yellow Colias crocia Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra (Brimstone not present in Crete) BRUSH-FOOTED BUTTERFLIES Family Nymphalidae Painted Lady Vanessa cardui Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta BROWN BUTTERFLIES Family Satyridae Wall Brown Lasiommata megera BLUES, HAIRSTREAKS & COPPERS Family Lycaenidae Common Blue Polyommatus icarus MOTHS Family Sphingidae Pine processionary moth Thaumetopoea pityocampa
OTHER TAXA SEEN
WATER BEETLES Family Gyrinidae Water Boatmen Notanecta sp Whirligig Beetle Gyrinus natator GROUND BEETLES Family Carabidae Green Tiger Beetle Cicindela campestris POLLEN BEETLES Order Coleoptera Pollen Beetle Oxythyrea funestra LADYBIRDS Family Coccinellidae Two-spot Ladybird Adalia bipunctata Seven-spot Ladybird Coccinella septempunctata
GRASSHOPPERS Family Locustinae Long-nosed Grasshopper Acrida ungarinca LOCUSTS Order Orthoptera Egyptian Locust Anacridium aegyptium CAVE CRICKETS Family Rhaphidophoridae Cave Cricket sp Dolichopoda sp? SNAILS Family Helicoidae Common (Garden) Snail Cornu aspersum Banded Snail Cernuella virgata Cretan Door Snail Albinaria inflata DRAGONFLIES & DAMSELS Order Odonata Common Blue-tail (Damselfly) Ischnura elegans DARTERS Family Aescnidae Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombii MILLIPEDES Family Eurymerodesmidae Millipede sp Acanthopetalum sp? CARPENTER BEES Family Xylocopinae European Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea