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Home , Arch of Constantine, Arch of Titus, Argiletum, Basilica Aemilia, Basilica Julia, Basilica of Maxentius

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Rome for you Information series on the City of Rome

Produced by: Cosmofilm spa - Elio de Rosa, editore Texts: Alberto Tagliaferri, Valerio Variale (Cultural Association Mirabilia Urbis) Editorial coordination: Emanuela Bosi Graphics and page setting: Marco C. Mastrolorenzi Translation edit by: Stephen Geoffrey Wheeler

Photos: C. De Santis: cover, p. 2, 13 bottom, 17, 35 left; A. Idini: p. 31, 32, 34, 35, 38 top; L. Moz- zano: p. 21, 22, 23, 24, 25; P. Soriani: p. 14, 27, 28, 36, 37, 38 bottom; Spazio Visivo: p. 3, 9, 10 right, 11, 12, 13 top, 15 bottom, 16, 18, 19 top; Archivio Cosmofilm: p. 10 left, 15 top, 19 bottom. Drawings on p. 8, 20, 29 by P. Pinchera for Mirabilia Urbis

On the cover, Temple of in the Roman On this page, of the Temple of Ultor in the Forum of 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 3

Walks in Rome

Comune di Turismo • The 8 1. The west area 9 2. The east area 14 3. Walking, walking… 19

• The area 20 4. The of Constantine 21 5. Walking, walking… 22 6. The Flavian (or Colosseum) 23 7. Walking, walking… 26

• The Imperial Forums 29 8. The Temple (or Forum) of Peace 30 9. The Forum of (or Forum Transitorium) 31 10. The 32 11. ’s Forum 33 12. Walking, walking… 36

The Monumental Rome From to the Colosseum

Stampa: GRAFICA PONTINA - Pomezia - ord. n. 12564 del 3-6-09 (c. 10.000) 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 4

A view of the Roman Forum looking towards the in an 18th century engrav- ing by G. Vasi. The Forum area had not yet been excavated, and it was used for grazing cattle.

The Colosseum and in a 17th century engraving by L. Cruyl. The mon- uments are viewed for the area of the Temple of and Rome, which was then covered in orchards and vegetable gardens. 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 5 Monumental Rome

Presentation

he Roman academic Silvio Negro maintai- ned that in order to know Rome, a “lifetime Twas not enough”. When faced with a history that is as eventful as Rome’s, it is difficult to appraise it even into brick thick guides, still we decided to offer a series of encompassing pocketbook volumes that any curious tourist may carry with them during their visit. The “Walks in Rome” series offers routes within the city’s great web of must-see sites and monuments. Each publication has chosen a gui- ding theme allowing you to follow a path through, to mention a few, “Monumental Rome” (via dei Fori Imperiali and the Colosseum) or “The Dawning of Christian Rome” (The of St. Johns in the Lateran and the Holy Cross in Jerusalem) or even enjoy the most earthly Rome “A virtual film set” (via and surroundings). So, even if a lifetime is not enough, you might as well start.

Tourism Office Rome Municipal Council

5 02-The MonumentsofRome20-03-200716:56Pagina6 6 Map Key 12. Walking, walking… 11. Trajan’s Forum TheForumofAugustus 10. . TheForumofNerva(orTransitorium) 9. TheTemple (orForum)ofPeace 8. 7. Walking, walking… TheFlavianAmphitheatre (orColosseum) 6. 5. Walking, walking… TheArch ofConstantine 4. 3. Walking, walking… Theeastarea oftheRomanForum 2. Thewestarea of theRomanForum 1. 12 11 1 10 9 8 2 Map 7 6 5 4 3 7 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 7 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 2 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 8 walk nd 2 …the walk begins... The Roman Forum he valley in which the Roman ings mirrored changes in the political Forum came into existence was institutions. First came the great tem- Tformed by the ’s erosion ples of the 5th and 4th centuries, repre- of the sides of the volcanic lava which senting the city’s extraordinary impor- constitutes the base of the seven hills. tance right from the start of its history. The lower part of this basin, stretching Basilicas were constructed from the roughly from the central area almost as 3rd century onwards, buildings which far as to the river, was occupied by a served to provide citizens with a cov- marsh known as the . On the ered area for business and assembly as edge of this marsh, at the foot of the an alternative to open areas. The earli- Palatine, rose some of Rome’s most an- est were the Porcia and the cient monuments, such as the , Basilica Sempronia, later to be substi- seat of the ancient kings. Towards the tuted by the and the end of the 6th century BC, under the . The Imperial period, Tarquin dynasty, the valley was re- from the reign of Augustus onwards, claimed and the waters drained into saw the definitive transformation of the Tiber down a sewer, the Cloaca the entire area into a monumental Maxima. The area was now ready for square which served a strictly com- use by the tribes who were already liv- memorative purpose, adorned in opu- ing on the surrounding hills, providing lent marble but by now deprived of its them with a place to meet, exchange historic goods and carry out the main activities functions. of daily life. Thus the Roman Forum was born, and it was to be the centre stage of Roman history throughout the peri- h od of the Republic, right down to the AD. The Re- g publican build- f

b e d a c The valley of the Roman Forum in the Imperial Age: a) - b) Basilica Aemil- 8 ia - c) Basilica Julia - d) Temple of - e) Temple of Divus Julius - f) Temple of - g) Basilica of - h) Temple of Venus and Rome , 9

Monumental Rome , entered Temple of Temple Shrine of Sacred Way Sacred : its circular marble : its circular , a double-faced god who was north and another to the south. north and another to the Following the paved in Ancient the most important street Rome, which traverses the whole of we come to the west the Forum area, side of the Basilica Aemilia and what ancient of the remains Venus base. The shrine consisted of a by a low wall, surrounded precinct containing the statues of the god- was an It desses Cloacina and Venus. of a very imperial-age reconstruction at the point ancient building erected the where the square. at the meeting point In the same area, of the and the which led to the crowded the road the re- neighbourhood, are mains of a small brick building which has been identified as the di- the patron , tabernae Aemilia , or money changers. En- ur walk begins in Via Fori dei Piazza Imperiali. Coming from the entrance to the Venezia, The west area 1. The Basilica Aemilia O archeological area of the Roman Fo- area archeological go through rum is on the right. We the gate and follow the short ramp of down the left side of the Temple Antoninus and Faustina; on the right of the Basilica Aemilia, built is the area at the expense of the which it took its (Aemilii clan), from name. It was built by the censors Mar- Ful- cus Aemilius Lepidus and Marcus vius Nobilior in 179 BC. The south fa- cade of the basilica, looking towards and the Sacred the Forum Square colon- a two-storey featured Way, nade of piers decorated with en- gaged columns. Below the porticus of the basilica was a series of leading to the offices of the leading to the offices argentarii en- trance to the basilica was via three trances on the long side of the build- ing. The huge interior was divided in- to four : a main central one, two smaller ones to the 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 9 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 10 walk nd 2

Arch of Temple of

vinity of transition, of the beginning and sunset. On one side of the Comi- and end of all things. tium was the Graecostasis, a platform The temple must have been square in from which overseas ambassadors shape, and it featured two doors, made their addresses, generally in which were kept closed in time of Greek. Another space contained the peace and open in time of war. , a platform decorated with the In front of the Arch of Septimius prow-heads (rostra) taken from ene- Severus, in an area marked off by a my ships, from which orators ha- rail, are the remains of what is known rangued the people. The as the (black stone), a was entirely redesigned during Cae- segment of black marble paving sur- sar and Augustus’s reworkings of the rounded by the remaining fragments Forum, after which it no longer served of slabs of marble. In addition the traditional political function it had to an , 1899 excavations beneath under the Republican order. the paving also revealed a stele bear- embarked upon his ambitious ing an inscription in archaic curs- transformations of the political area ing anyone who profaned the place, of the Forum in 54 BC. The old which was reserved for the ritual sac- House, the Curia Hostilia, was closed rifices carried out by the king. The and converted into a temple, and the small sanctuary can therefore be dat- new Curia was erected where it still ed to the 6th century BC and may stands today, to the right of the Lapis have marked the site of the mythical Niger, in between the Roman Forum death of Romulus, whom legend has and the one which Caesar had built it was killed near the Volcanal, an an- next to it. The large brick building was cient temple to . Together with inaugurated by Augustus in 29 BC the courts and other buildings, the and underwent several restorations Lapis Niger formed part of the ancient over the course of time, the last of area of the Comitium, the political which was effected under the princi- heart of the city, where the people pate of . 10 met in assembly and where the public Planned according to Vitruvian speci- crier announced the times of midday fications, the building is rectangular Monumental Rome 11 Temple of Temple , of which a few architectural against the Parthians with the con- against the Parthians with in arch struction of a grand triumphal is about 203. The , which high, was topped by a 21 metres and statues of the bronze and Ge- leader and his sons, Caracalla his brother ta. When Caracalla killed the in 211, with a view to becoming all references sole heir to the throne, the obliterated from to Geta were construction. is the monu- On the right after the arch mental platform of the Concord left. It was built by Furius fragments are to com- Camillus in 367 BC in order of the strug- memorate the resolution gles between and of Sextius’s with the approval legislation and the consequent exten- Arch were moved: were . This Rostra Area of the Lapis Niger Area in form, with four piers at the cornersin form, with four piers The lower half of and a pitched roof. in marble the outer walls was clad an stone- slabs, above which was fea- The facade in plaster. work effect and a por- large windows three tured mounted the doors tal on which were subsequently transferred which were to the main door of S. Giovanni in Lat- erano. Even the the platform became a proper stage, the platform became a proper which the politician, no longer from having to worry about obtaining an performed consensus, electorate’s of the crowd. in front with his retinue of the Continuing in the direction Capitoline Hill, we come to the of Septimius Severus of African origin immortalized the of his exploits in the field record 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 11 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 12 walk nd

2 sion of political entitlements. Under where the state treasury was kept. The the reign of it became a sort of temple formed the starting point of of Greek art. the , the last The three columns forming an angle stretch of the Sacred Way, trodden in to the left of the platform of the Tem- ancient times by the of tri- ple of Peace, which feature Corinthian umphant generals on their way up to capitals and a section of , the Temple of Capitoline . Today are more recent, dating back to the the high podium of the Temple of Sat- Flavian dynasty. These are the remains urn can still be admired, along with its of the Temple of Vespasian, which eight granite columns and their Ionic subsequently also dedicated capitals, dating back to reconstruc- to . Restored under Septimius tions in the 3rd century AD. There is Severus and Caracalla, the temple still an inscription on the frieze com- stood on a platform, was 33 metres memorating the restoration, and the long and 22 metres wide, and had a east facade of the podium, looking to- pronaos with six Corinthian columns wards the square, contains a series of on the front and two on the sides. holes used for hanging the great panel Further to the left stand the imposing upon which acts and documents of of the , which state were exhibited. was located near the ancient Volcanal. On the slopes of the Capitoline Hill the Built in 498 BC and dedicated to the remains may be seen of the last great god who founded the first village on temple dedicated to the pagan tradi- the Capitoline Hill, it was the first ma- tion: what is known as the Porticus jor construction of the Republican Deorum Consentium, referring to Age. Because Saturn was also pairs of Greek gods who were ab- the god of the mythical sorbed into the Roman religion. Behind Golden Age, the plat- the porticus, which consists of two lines form of the tem- of columns meeting at an obtuse an- ple contained gle, is a row of double chambers which the Aerar- contained the sacred images. After ium, restoration in the Flavian Age the build- ing was rebuilt by the Vettius Agorius Praetextatus in 367. We return to the Forum

12 The Porticus Deorum Consentium 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 13 Monumental Rome

Square. In front of the right corner of the Rostra is the base of a erected in 303 in order to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the , the subdivision of the empire into four areas according to Diocletian’s wishes. The base is decorated with carvings in low depicting winged victories, barbarian prisoners and the traditional sacrifice of the pig, the ram and the bull. In the area behind the base the ancient paving of the Forum is partially visible. This was undertaken by the Lucius Naevius Sordinus Basilica Julia, detail of chess board carved in 14 BC according to Augustus’s on one of its steps wishes. The last monument to be the pre-existing Basilica Sempronia erected in the square was the Column put up by Tiberius Sempronius Grac- of . Mounted on a stepped chus, father of brothers Tiberius and base, it still bears part of its inscription Gaius, the famous of the in honour of the Byzantine emperor people. Now only the large platform, Phocas, whose statue has been lost. the steps and the bases of some of The column was dedicated to the em- the piers remain of this large building, peror in 608 by the Church of Rome in which measured 101 metres by 49 gratitude for the donation of the and was divided into five aisles, and Pantheon, which then became the was used to hear cases regarding church of S. Maria ad Martyres. questions of inheritance. Some tabu- Caesar rounded off the Forum area lae lusoriae have been found carved on the south side with the construc- on the surface of the steps surround- tion of the Basilica ing the basilica. Similar to chess Julia. In order to do boards, these were perhaps used by this he demolished those who sat to await their turn in court.

13 The Forum Square and, in the centre, the 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 14 walk nd 2 2. The east area

n 29 BC Augustus dedicated a tem- of its central pylons may still be seen ple to , the first Roman to the south of the , Icitizen to be deified. What is left of and fragments of decoration attrib- the Temple of Divus Julius is located uted to what was known as the Parth- on the east side of the Forum, where ic Arch have been found close by. the dictator’s body was cremated: the To the right of the Temple of Caesar massive core of the podium, in con- are the remains of the Temple of crete, with a semi-circular area in the Castor and Pollux. Theirs was a centre containing a circular altar. In Greek cult introduced to Rome by the same year Augustus erected a sin- the aristocratic class. The temple was gle-doored arch in order to celebrate put up in 484 BC by the son of Aulus his victory at Actium. Ten years later, Postumius, victor in the Battle of Lake Regillus in 499 BC. The last of in 19 BC, the arch was replaced by an- its many reconstructions was that of other more imposing one, with three Tiberius in 6 AD, of which three ma- doors, commemorating the policy of jestic columns survive in fluted Pari- negotiations initiated by Augustus an marble with large Corinthian cap- with regard to the Parthians. Remains itals, mounted on a tall podium. Behind the Temple of Castor and Pol- lux is the church of S. Maria Anti- qua, a 6th century conversion of the large vestibule of the imperial palaces. The church, which acquired its epithet after the construction of S. Maria Nova (now S. Francesca Ro- mana), was built with three aisles and an apse in the back wall. It was decorated with frescoes between the 6th and the 9th centuries, and abandoned in the 9th century due to the damage caused by a series of earthquakes. The Spring of , or Lacus Iu- turnae, was the spring which provid- ed the ancient nucleus of the city with water. It was here, according to legend, that Castor and Pollux stopped to water their steeds and broke the news of the Roman victory at Lake Regillus. 14 Nowadays the spring consists of a Columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux basin located between the Temple of 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 15 Monumental Rome

S. Maria Antiqua, overall view of decoration of left wall

Vesta and that of Castor and Pollux, stood the head office of the Statio with a pedestal in the centre which Aquarum, or Water Board, after it once supported the marble was moved here from the Campus of the twin gods. Near the spring Martius in 328.

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2 The circular , which and served as official residence of is surrounded by 20 Corinthian the king. In Republican times the lat- columns, was restored in 1930 and ter figure was substituted by the Rex now features a reconstructed section Sacrorum and the . in which the original fragments, One of the rooms contained the an- which date back to the period of cilia, the sacred shields borne in pro- Septimius Severus, have been incor- cession by the Salii priests. porated into the modern travertine The monumental Temple of Antoni- used in the reconstruction. The tem- nus and Faustina was dedicated to ple probably had a conical roof with and his wife Faustina a central opening to allow the smoke the Elder. It faces onto the north-east from the sacred fire to escape. Be- side of the Forum, next to the visitors’ hind the temple, on the east side, is entrance ramp. The temple demon- the entrance to the House of the strates the definitive triumph of the Vestals. In its earliest form, the cult of the emperor-god and there- House of the Vestals consisted of six fore of the divinity of the State, which parallel rooms, reserved for the was identified primarily in the person priestesses, which opened onto a of the emperor. In the middle of the courtyard built on a precise N-S, E-W modern stairway is the brick core of alignment. Reconstructions in the the ancient altar, and the temple’s reigns of Trajan and Septimius pronaos features ten marble Severus resulted in a building de- columns, seventeen metres tall and signed around a vast inner courtyard topped with Corinthian capitals, 69 metres long. brought from the quarries of the Is- The Regia, or Royal Palace, is deeply land of Euboea. Inside the pronaos is rooted in the monarchical period. It’s the facade of the church of S. Lorenzo ruins can be seen be- in Miranda, which was once at hind the podium of the street level, prior to 19th centu- Temple of Divus ry excavation of the Forum. Julius. According to Certain grooves chiselled in- tradition, it was to the columns for the pur- founded by Rome’s second king, ,

16 The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina Monumental Rome 17 : circular Basilica of Max- . This was the emperor who . This was the emperor Temple of Romulus Temple Along the Sacred Way a building on Way Along the Sacred Maxentius the left commemorates son Romulus, and - in particular - his 309 and was who died in infancy in This is the so- deified by his father. called in plan and topped by a dome, it in plan and topped by deco- front boasts a slightly concave while rated with niches for statues, door are next to the original bronze columns with mar- two red ble capitals. Some scholars identify of the the monument as the Temple to make way for Penates, moved here of the Basilica of Maxen- the erection climbs Way the Sacred tius. Here somewhat. A turningon the left takes dominated by us to a large open area of the what remains entius started to build the gigantic basilica, aisles by which is divided into three four colossal piers and topped with of the high ground vaults, on barrel 80 The central was the Velia. long and 25 wide, achieving a metres It was maximum height of 35 metres. resting cross-vaults, by three covered on eight fluted columns of Procon- archaic cemetery archaic pose of holding ropes point to an at- pose of holding ropes building in or- tempt to demolish the its building and sell off der to recycle of the materials. The construction Miranda sub- in of S. Lorenzo church the colonnade sequently preserved any further attempts at demoli- from was first built around tion. The church to It was bestowed the 8th century. the University of Spicers and Aromati- cians by Martin V and now be- longs to the Noble Chemical-Pharma- ceutical College. In the early 17th to the according century it was rebuilt who incor- design of Orazio Torriani, porated the elegant facade into the of Antoninus of the Temple pronaos one of the and Faustina, thus creating most emblematic monuments to ancient and ability to wed Rome’s the right of the temple modern. To podium some grassy patches mark out the positions of the thirty-odd sunken and shallow graves which formed part of the in 1902. The site was used discovered by the inhabitants of the Palatine and the has yielded material dating from 10th to the 8th centuries BC. The 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 17 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 18 walk nd

2 nesian marble, the last of which was The two side aisles consisted of three taken by Borghese in intercommunicating areas surmount- 1613 as a support for the statue of ed by imposing barrel vaults, which the Madonna in Piazza S. Maria Mag- were decorated with coffering and il- giore. Access to the basilica was via luminated by large windows. The re- the east side, and the west side termi- mains still visible are of the right . nated in a deep apse. The remains of If we return to the Sacred Way and the colossal statue of Constantine continue our ascent, we come to the were discovered in 15th century exca- . The arch, which was vations: the head is 2.6 metres high dedicated to Titus by his brother and is kept, together with other frag- Domitian, has a single passage and its ments, in the courtyard of the Palazzo two facades feature couples of en- dei Conservatori on the Capitoline gaged columns with composite capi- Hill. Maxentius himself never saw the tals. The keystones of the arch depict finished project: it was completed af- the Personification of Rome on the ter the Battle of the Milvian Bridge by east side and the Genius of the Ro- the victor of the en- man People on the west side. The counter. spandrels feature winged victories carrying banners. On the east side are the remains of a frieze in low relief de- picting the triumphal granted to Vespasian and Ti- tus after their victory in the Jewish War in 70 AD and the cap- ture of Jerusalem. The two carved panels located in- side the door also refer to this tri- umph: on the south side, the procession of the legionaries bear- ing the treasures pillaged from the Temple of

18 Arch of Titus, west side Monumental Rome 19 that of Venus. The that of Venus. chamber looking to- wards the Colosseum, wards the Forum is well preserved: it used to form part of the convent of S. Francesca was only in 1822 that it was disen- by Valadier. gaged and restored Romana and it is now annexed to the Soprintendenza Archeologica di Ro- ma and the Forum Antiquarium. Con- we tinuing along the Sacred Way, come to the Colosseum Valley. The chamber dedicated to Venus in the The chamber dedicated to Venus and Rome of Venus Temple The Sacred Way towards the Arch of Titus towards the Arch Way The Sacred 3. Walking, walking... , the sacred , while the Temple of Venus Temple ification of the Senate menorah , built by the emperor f we descend the in the Sacred Way direction of the I Colosseum valley, we Colosseum valley, come, on the left, to one of the apses, a few columns and the substructures of the and Rome with the Temple . Together of Serapis on the Quirinal, this was the biggest in the whole of , with a podium measuring 145 metres long and 100 metres wide. This long platform was lined with porticoestall granite columns with on its long sides. There were two short at either end on the staircases Colosseum side, and a large flight of steps descended the podium in the direction of the Roman Forum. The temple, surrounded by steps, was peripteral, ie it had a row of columns around all four sides, in line with the traditional models of Greek architec- The in- ture favoured by the emperor. terior consisted of two chambers with back-to-back apses: the east one con- tained the statue of the Goddess Rome and the west one, looking to- seven-branched candlestick, and the seven-branched candlestick, the other silver trumpets), and on Titusside, another panel with on the chariot, preced- triumphal four-horse ed by the ’ horses by the goddess Rome leads the crowns bridle and a winged victory This is followed by the to- the victor. ga-clad person of personification and a bare-breasted of the the . In the centre is a smaller panel featuring Titus being borne into the sky on an eagle. formed In the Middle Ages the arch part of the wall built in the and it by the Frangipane family, area Solomon (the 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 19 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The MonumentsofRome20-03-200716:56Pagina20 20 2ndwalk The stood nearby. emperor Nerowhich ofthecolossalstatue memory late medievaltimes,probablyin came knownastheColosseumin the Flavianemperors,anditonlybe- phitheatre, becauseitwasbuiltby actual namewastheFlavianAm- hunts ( to hostspectaclesofwildanimal ing inanellipticalbuildingdesigned of blueprintsfortwotheatres,result- This wasbroughtaboutbythefusion tion ofthegrandnewmonument. or’s deathtoallowfortheconstruc- which wasdrainedaftertheemper- lake was occupiedbyanartificial where theColosseumnowstands Theplace plex wasarticulated. the wholeofhis fights ( T Colossus ofNero -e)Temple ofVenus andRome-f)Trajan’s Baths The Colosseumvalley:a)-b)Arch ofConstantine-c)MetaSudansd) e The Colosseumarea time, thepointaroundwhich Colosseum was,inNero’s he areanowoccupiedbythe munera venationes c , lit.dutifulgifts).Its b d ) andgladiator …continuing the walk... com- ian churchesinthesameyears. ofthefirstChrist- the construction er monuments,itwasfollowedby 315 usingpiecesrecycledfromearli- of paganarchitecture.Assembledin of“swansong” tine, whichwasasort and thefamousArchofConstan- spring knownastheMetaSudans Colosseum valleyalsocontainedthe Besides thestatueofNero, Rome falls,sowilltheworld”. falls, Rometoowillfall;andwhen will Rome,andwhentheColosseum “As longastheColosseumexists,so cy bytheAnglo-SaxonmonkBede: prophe- According toa7thcentury bol ofRomeandherimmortality. sym- Roman world,butalsothevery edly thegreatestmonumentin amphitheatreandundoubt- largest Colosseum is,ofcourse,notonlythe a f 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 21 Monumental Rome

4. The Arch of Constantine

ext to the Colosseum is the ready have been abandoned. The at- most famous of all the ancient tic contains the following Narches of Rome. Started in 312 inscription: “To the emperor Flavius to celebrate the victory of Constan- Constantine, the Great, pious and tine at the Milvian Bridge, it was com- fortunate, the Senate and People of pleted in 315 in time to mark the Rome dedicated this arch to mark his tenth anniversary of the reign of Con- triumphs, because by divine inspira- stantine, who had become tetrarch in tion and his own great spirit he simul- Britannia in 305. The arch has three taneously freed the State from the openings, the middle one bigger than tyrant and from all factions”. Over the the side ones, and it was approached side run the six sections of the up a stairway, now no longer visible. frieze in low relief which tells the story In order to accelerate its completion, of his military campaign against Max- it was decorated on its facades, in the entius, from his departure from attic and inside the central archway, to his arrival in Rome, the only deco- with works of art taken from other ration undertaken especially for the Roman monuments which may al- occasion. On top of this continuous

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2 the period of Hadrian and originally depicting the latter, which were reworked in order to make Constantine the new protagonist of the scenes. On either side of the inscription on the attic were reworked panels, over three me- tres in height, which probably came from an arch erected in honour of by his son . These re- fer to the military campaigns which the philosopher-emperor conducted against the Quadi and the Side roundel portraying god on sun . Other low-relief carv- chariot ings and statues of Dacian prisoners panel relief, the small archways fea- originate from the area of the Forum ture carved roundels dating back to of Trajan.

22 Carvings of the exploits of Marcus Aurelius: left, distribution of money; right, the emperor in front of the triumphal gate Monumental Rome 23 statue of cient street paving If we follow the an- which runs along- side the area of the , we pass by Meta Sudans, we pass . The statue, which was a large area of grass plant- raised oaks ed with a group of holm the area of which precisely marks the base of the colossal carved by the Greek sculptor Zen- odorus, was over thirty metres high and remained over the cen- turies the largest bronze statue ever cast. Nero had himself por- trayed with the radiate features of the sun-god Sol. During Hadri- reign the statue was moved an’s to the from the crest of the Velia place marked by the current grassy patch, in order to make room for the building of the Tem- and Rome. ple of Venus 5. Walking, . This walking... Meta Sudans (limit) because it was The circular base of the Meta Sudans in front of the Arch of Constantine Arch of the base of the Meta Sudans in front The circular etween the Arch of Con- stantine and meta B the Colosseum we of come upon the remains was the foundations of what known as the was a monumental fountain in the was a monumental fountain shape of the trunk cone, from of a which water flowed as if it was sweating. Its brick core survived until 1936, when it was demolished to make way for the Fascist military parades which took place in the area of the Arch of Constantine. The fountain was located at the meeting point of four of the four- teen wards into which Imperial Rome was divided. It was referred to as built on the site of one of the stelai marking the boundaries of Romu- primitive city. lus’s 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 23 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 24 walk nd 2 6. The Flavian Amphitheatre, or Colosseum

riginally occupied, as we in 80 AD, with a series of spectacles have seen, by the artificial lasting a hundred days, which saw Olake of Nero’s Domus Aurea, the slaughtering of over five thou- the area of the Colosseum was re- sand wild beasts. Domitian, Titus’s stored to the public domain by the brother, also contributed to the of the Flavian dynasty. building’s construction, decorating Vespasian was the first emperor to it usque ad clypea, ie right up to its tackle the construction of the build- crowning with bronze shield motifs. ing, and in the years 72-79 it rose to A retractable canopy was also in- two-thirds its final height. It was in- stalled, manned by a special crew of augurated by Ves- sailors, in order to furnish the seat- pasian’s ing area with shade. Renouncing son Titus the possibili-

24 The subterranean areas of the Flavian Amphitheatre Monumental Rome 25 ty of flooding the arena, an under- ty of flooding the arena, of passageways was system ground equipment for facili- with created of ani- tating the rapid succession amphitheatre mals and scenes. The stricken by earth- was repeatedly and was repaired quakes and fires In 523 it many times over the years. hosted its last wild beast hunt. In the Middle Ages it was converted by the Frangipane into a fortress, and then the Annibaldi families. decline accelerat- The monument’s ed after the 1349 earthquake, when the materials in marble, started to be and iron bronze For cen- stripped systematically. turies the Colosseum became noth- Subterranean parts the east entrance, connected to the gladi- of the Flavian Amphitheatre: ators’ barracks, the Erroneous reconstructionre- of the sector served for senators 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 25 20-03-2007 16:56 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 26 walk nd

2 ing but a city quarry. In order to save sition of spectators. The imperial it, Pope Benedict XIV pronounced it family and the highest-ranking a holy place in 1744 due to the state officials enjoyed the use of en- blood spilt by the , and trance passages especially designed placed around the arena 14 for retinues, with no steps or long aedicules of the Via Crucis, which diversions. were later removed in 1874. The The architectural structure of the restoration of the monument began building was of three orders, each in the 19th century, but its condition with eighty archways, framed by only improved notably after 1870. engaged columns set in the middle The amphitheatre is elliptical in of piers. The lowest order was in the plan, measuring 188 metres by 156, Tuscan style, the middle one Ionic, and travertine was used for the ex- and the upper one Corinthian. The terior and load-bearing parts. The attic contained windows which, in cavea, which seated a public of as ancient times, alternated with many as 50,000, was planned with bronze shields. Two thirds of the particular care, with the seating way up the attic we can still see the rows plotted on radial walls, inclin- large stone brackets which held the ing at about 37 degrees. At the bot- masts used to hoist the canopy. The tom and middle levels the seating underground sectors included stor- rows were of marble, as these were age areas, lifts, ramps, trapdoors, the places taken up by the most im- cages for the wild beasts and vari- portant spectators, while in the up- ous facilities. There was also an un- per section of the cavea the struc- derground passageway via which tures were of wood. Rationalized combatants might reach the am- systems of access and numbered phitheatre from the nearby gladia- entrances facilitated the rapid tran- torial barracks, the Ludus Magnus. 7. eaving the If we continue down Colosseum Walking, the left side of the Lbehind us, we walking... road and up the Cli- enter the left side of vo di Venere Felice we Via dei Fori Imperiali. soon reach the church of The Via del Impero was created be- S. Maria Nova, better known to Ro- tween 1924 and 1936, with the de- mans as S. Francesca Romana. It struction of the dense carpet of was here, at this point on the Velia, buildings which stretched from Pi- that there rose an older, smaller azza Venezia to the Colosseum. church, which Pope Paul I dedicat- Since the end of the Second World ed to Saints Peter and Paul at the War it has been referred to by its very spot where is re- present name. The annual parade puted to have fallen after a of the armed forces takes place flight undertaken as a public chal- down this road every year on 2nd lenge to St Peter. Indeed, the June, to mark the Anniversary of church preserves the silices 26 the Republic. apostolici, flagstones which are sup- 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:56 Pagina 27 Monumental Rome

posed to bear the imprint of knees partly restored. The confessio, by left by the apostle Peter when he Gian Lorenzo Bernini, contains the knelt to pray to God for the punish- remains of the saint, which were ment of Simon Magus. The church brought here from Tor de’ Specchi. is referred to as Nova because it was In the basin of the apse is a 12th built to replace the church of S. century mosaic featuring the Maria Antiqua, rendered unviable Madonna enthroned flanked by by the frequent flooding of the Saints James, John, Peter and An- Tiber, towards the end of the 10th drew. century. It is where S. Francesca Ro- Back on Via dei Fori Imperiali, we mana and her followers became come to a stretch of wall on our left Oblates in 1425. After 1870, part of bearing four marble panels docu- the convent passed to the demesne, menting the extent of the con- and it is now used as headquarters quests of Ancient Rome, from the of the Archeological Superinten- reign of the seven kings up to that dency of Rome and Forum Anti- of Trajan, under whom the empire quarium. The travertine facade was expanded to its maximum size be- executed in 1615 by Carlo Lombar- tween 98 and 117. A little further di. At the highest point of the fa- on, we come to the church of SS. cade are five statues of saints, in- Cosma e Damiano, which Pope Fe- cluding one of the titular saint. lix IV had built inside the Temple Next to the church stands the 12th of Romulus in the 6th century. century Romanesque campanile, Cosmas and Damian were two which rises to five storeys, the top brothers, both doctors, who were three of which are decorated with martyred under Diocletian and two-leaved windows: at the top is a were much venerated in Byzan- Marian niche decorated by a pair of tium. Of all the renovations which small columns. The interior of the the church has undergone, the church features a single nave and most important was that under Ur- remains of the original Cos- ban VIII in 1632, when the floor matesque paving, which has been was raised by seven metres, trans- Via dei Fori Imperiali

27 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 28 walk nd 2 SS. Cosma e Damiano, facade and wall on map of Rome carved in which Forma Urbis was hung the reign of Septimius Severus. Of particular inter- est in the interior of the church is a splendid 6th cen- tury apsidal mosaic, which features Christ in between Saints Peter, Paul, Cosmas and Damian, accompanied by Saint Theodore and Pope Felix IV. On the triumphal arch is the Mystic Lamb sur- rounded by seven candle- sticks, angels, the symbols of the Evangelists and the 24 El- ders of the Apocalypse. Since 1939 the basilica has also conserved an 18th-cen- tury Neapolitan presepio. forming the Temple of Romulus Exiting the church and return- into a sort of crypt. Of particular ing to Largo della Salara Vecchia, interest is the wall to the left of the we cross over to the right side of entrance to the church, which Via dei Fori Imperiali and then bears the regularly spaced holes cross Via at the pedestrian which once contained the bronze crossing. On our left extends the hinges which supported the mar- area of what is left of the Imperial ble panels of the Forma Urbis, the Forums.

SS. Cosma e Damiano, apsidal mosaic: Christ at his Second Coming amid Saints Peter 28 and Paul and Cosmas, Damian and Theodore and Pope Felix IV; below, the twelve lambs Monumental Rome 29 events. its earliest e origins of the city and d the historical memory of the c this, and hence served only to record “Forum Transitorium”, later completed “Forum Transitorium”, by his successor Nerva, it from whom acced- then took its name. When Trajan ed to power there was no longer any area big enough to contain a forum worthy of his conquests, which is why he decided to level off the saddle of land joining the Capitoline to the Quirinal, in order to create the necessary space to undertake what is by far the biggest and most spectacular of all the Imperial Fo- rums. also With this operation Trajan which had connected the ancient city, grown up inside the circle of the seven hills, with its more recent part, which stood on the outer plain of the Field of Mars. The greatest project of city and ar- chitectural redevelopment in ancient times was therefore completed in less than a hundred and fifty years, and the main commercial and economic func- tions of the ancient Forum came to a decisive end. With the building of a se- ries of large squares surrounded by por- ticoes and featuring temples, basilicas and other buildings, the city acquired a new political, administrative, judicial and monumental centre. The Roman Forum was inevitably cut off from all b the walk... …continuing a y the end of the Republican peri- od the ancient Roman Forum was no longer big enough to car- The Imperial ForumsThe Imperial The Imperial Forums: a) Tra- jan’s Forum; b) Caesar’s Forum; c) Augustus’s Forum; d) ; e) Forum of Peace B ry out all those functions – political, re- ligious, administrative and representa- tive – which up until then had made it Rome was now the engine of the city. the centre of a considerable empire and it needed a project for extending the Forum area. The most suitable area for this purpose was identified in the broad flat area located to the north-west of the old square. This had for centuries been an intricate labyrinth of winding streets, shops and street markets. Julius Caesar was the first to build in this area, with Forum,Caesar’s which was to become a kind of prototype for the Imperial Fo- rums. Augustus followed suit, adding another forum at right-angles to that of deep into penetrating his predecessor, the heart Suburra. of the Then it befell to construct the grand com- Vespasian of Peace, further to plex of the Temple the south, in celebration of his con- quest of Judaea. This, in practice, took on all the functions of a public square. A small space re- mained be- tween this and the earlier Fo- rum of Augus- tus, which Domitian used to build what was known as the 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 29 20-03-2007 16:57 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 30 walk nd 2 8. The Temple, or Forum, of Peace

he first of the Imperial Forums porticus. This monumental square, that one comes to when arriving one of the most beautiful in Ancient Tfrom the Colosseum is actually Rome, was dominated by the pres- the least visible, in so far as its remains ence of the temple dedicated to are almost completely buried under Peace, from which the entire archi- the road surface. Only a small part of tectural complex, known as the Tem- it, currently still under excavation, can plum Pacis and later as the Forum of be seen in the area between the Peace, derived its name. The temple church of SS. Cosma e Damiano and was built to celebrate the conquest of Largo della Salara Vecchia. Jerusalem in 70 AD, and tradition has Under the emperor Vespasian, father it that its inner chamber contained of Titus and Domitian and founder of objects sacred to the Jewish religion, the Flavian dynasty, construction be- including the famous menorah, or gan of an enormous area occupied by seven-branched candlestick, in addi- gardens and surrounded by a quadri- tion to several works of Greek art.

9. The Forum of Nerva, or Forum Transitorium

Domitian, the last of the Fla- , of whom Domitian was a vians, had a monumental forum particularly fervent devotee, of which Dof his own built in the area still the podium remains, uncovered dur- free between the Temple of Peace, the ing excavations in the 1930s. The Forum of Augustus, Caesar’s Forum columns and remaining marble of the temple were used by Pope Paul V in and the north-east side of the Roman 1606 for the construction of the Ac- Forum. This was a grand square, long qua Paola fountain on the . and narrow, decorated with columns Inside the forum were two large stat- which formed a pseudo-porticus and ues of emperors, but Domitian was un- bore reliefs perhaps connected to the able to complete his project as he was myth of Arachne, of which a section assassinated in 96 AD in a palace con- survives bearing the figure of Minerva spiracy. It was his successor, the elderly and scenes of women’s tasks. Below emperor Nerva, who inaugurated the are two columns which, over the cen- square in 97. It was known as the Fo- turies, became known as the Colon- rum Transitorium because of the way 30 nacce (ugly columns). At the bottom in which it functioned as a thorough- was a temple dedicated to the goddess fare, connecting the earlier forums. Monumental Rome 31 Representation of MinervaRepresentation in the Forum of Nerva The so-called Colonnacce in the Forum of Nerva 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 31 20-03-2007 16:57 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 32 walk nd 2 10. The Forum of Augustus

f we continue down Via dei Fori Im- ed. The two entrances led to two periali, we may admire the forum stairways flanking the podium of the Iopened in 2 BC by Augustus to en- , which led up dorse his own political role and that of to two commemorative arches. The the dynasty. The forum is sepa- podium of the temple still stands in rated from the surrounding inhabited the middle at the back, with a stair- area, just as it was in ancient times way in front which led up to the altar. from the Suburra neighbourhood, by Each side of the temple featured eight an imposing wall in blocks of peperi- fluted columns with Corinthian capi- no tufa with elements in travertine, tals, three of which still stand on the which served to protect the square left side, plus the pier at the back, and from the fires that were a frequent oc- some columns have been re-erected currence in the popular quarters. on the front of of the temple. The There were two entrances in the wall: chamber ended in an apse which con- one with three openings and the oth- tained the statues of Mars, Venus and er with just one. The latter became Caesar. Mars Ultor (“the avenger”) known over the centuries as the Arco celebrated Augustus’s avenging of dei Pantani (Arch of the Marshes), or the death of Caesar with the defeat Saint Basil’s Marsh, because water of his assassins at the tended to stagnate around it. The in 42 BC. The goddess Venus, mother street which passed under the arch, of , underlined the Julian fami- which can be seen in some early 20th ly’s connection with the Trojan hero, century photographs, from whom Augustus boasted his de- has since been scent. Behind the statues, at the back eliminat- of the apse, was a niche designed to contain the military standards which the Parthians had taken from Crassus in 53 BC in the battle

32 The Forum of Augustus Monumental Rome 33 , the largest basilica in tus on a triumphal quadriga. The com- tus on a triumphal quadriga. a colos- plex must also have contained measuring sal statue of the emperor, in height. Indeed, the about 14 metres a large marble fragment of the foot of at the end of statue can still be seen square the left , in a large is The head of the emperor room. the one now kept on the probably east wall of the Cortile della Pigna in know that the room We the Vatican. which contained the colossus also contained panels by the famous painter , which depicted Greek the exploits of the Macedonian leader . rum were adornedrum were with statues of Dacian prisoners, some of which of Con- for the Arch recycled were stantine. The long sides of the square opened into two exhedras, of which Markets the one adjacent to Trajan’s can still be seen. These exhedras con- from tained statues of the emperors At the time of Augustus onwards. stood the the bottom of the square named after the em- ancient history, whose full name was Marcus peror, At the top of the Ulpius Traianus. building was another monumental and the facade quadriga with Trajan, of the imperial le- the standards bore gions. On the attic, a large frieze in departure narrated Trajan’s high relief for war and the salient moments of . Caryatids Trajan’s Forum Trajan’s rajan entrusted the job of de- signing his monumental square and the adjacent Markets of 11. of Carrhae and which Augustus had of Carrhae and which skilful managed to get back through diplomacy. of built over an area was The square by 118, and it fea- about 125 metres with columns of Carys- a portico tured sides, on three marble tian green attic with by an topped off opened The long sides of the square into two large exhedras with a series of niches containing statues of gilded dedicated to the main charac- bronze, cycle and ters of the legendary Trojan and Monarchical to those of Rome’s of the The centre Republican history. forum contained the statue of Augus- T Trajan to the greatest architect of the architect to the greatest Trajan time, . The largest of all the Imperial Forums, it was undertaken between 107 and between 113, making use of the area the Suburra, the valley of the Velia, the Roman Forum and the Quirinal, of the saddle with the levelling off which had until then joined it to the Capitoline. The forum was 300 me- wide. En- long and 185 metres tres trance was via a commemorative surmounted by a statue of the arch of on a quadriga. The centre emperor was also dominated by a the square gigantic equestrian statue of Trajan, while the porticoed sides of the fo- 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 33 20-03-2007 16:57 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 34 walk nd

2 his battles. Part of this frieze, divided the custom in ancient sculpture, and into four panels, is used to decorate the 2,500 odd figures were equipped the Arch of Constantine. The Atrium with miniature arms and accou- Libertatis, the Hall of Liberty, where trements. The base originally housed slaves were formally freed, was trans- the golden urn containing the em- ferred to one of the apses of the peror’s ashes. At the top was a statue basilica. Trajan’s Column is 39.83 of Trajan, which disappeared in me- metres tall, the same height as the dieval times and was replaced in the saddle of land which levelled off to 16th century by a statue of Saint Pe- make way for the building of the fo- ter. The column was previously rum. It consists of large blocks of Ital- thought to have stood between the ian Luna marble and a square base Latin and Greek libraries. However, decorated with reliefs depicting the the traditional reconstruction of this arms of the vanquished and forum and the exact position of some eagles bearing festoons. Like a kind of its most important constituent ele- of long papyrus, a low-relief frieze ments has since been cast into circles up the column narrating the doubt by more recent studies. two Dacian campaigns fought by The complex of the Mar- Trajan in 101-102 and 105-106. kets of Trajan was also The reliefs were painted in colour, planned by Apollodor- as was us of Damascus, who accommodated it in the cut in the saddle which had previously joined the Capitoline

34 Trajan’s Column and, in the foreground, the columns of the Basilica Ulpia Monumental Rome 35 which taber- Via Bib- , which still piperatica tabernae in medieval times, from , beverage, or perhaps by cor- ) and which led up to the Base of Trajan’s Column Base of Trajan’s ways framed by small pilasters with capitals and surmounted by alternat- pediments. In- ing whole and broken shops ( side the exhedra were nae The upper part con- upper storeys. sisted of a terrace along which ran a lined with road the exists and was renamed eratica biber ruption of the term referred to the pepper market. referred orders of arch- orders The facade contained The large exhedra of the Markets of Trajan Trajan’s Column, detail of the legionaries Trajan’s a boat bridge over the Danube, crossing the personification of which may be noted below to the Quirinal. The ancient entrance was near one of the exhedras of Tra- extended the main Forum. Here jan’s of the complex architectural front which consisted of a large structure, exhedra, concentric to that of the fo- rum and connected to it by a street. 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 35 20-03-2007 16:57 of Rome 02-The Monuments 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 36 walk

nd 12. 2 e continue stucco. On the walls on our walk Walking, are six marble statues, Wand enter a walking... including one of St Su- open space to the right sanna, a masterpiece by of . Piazza François Duquesnoy, and Madonna di Loreto takes its St Cecilia by Giuliano Finelli, name from the church of S. Maria di both dating to 1630. On Onorio Loreto, the first of the two churches on Longhi’s high altar is a painting on our right. This was started in around wood of the Antoniazzo Romano 1507 by the Tuscan architect Antonio school depicting the Madonna be- da Sangallo the Younger, and was com- tween St Sebastian and St Roche. pleted by a pupil of Michelangelo’s, Ja- Next to S. Maria di Loreto is another copo del Duca. The church stands on a church which is at first sight similar in massive square brick base, decorated structure. This is the church of the by pairs of composite pilasters. On top Santissimo Nome di Maria, built in of this massive cube stands a tall octag- 1736 by the confraternity of the same onal drum with windows, which sup- name which was formed after the ports the cupola, in turn divided into Christian victory over the Turks dur- eight segments. Entrance is via a tall ing the siege of Vienna in 1683. The doorway surmounted by a triangular building work was supervised by the pediment, which contains an ad- French architect Antoine Dérizet, who mirable carving in low relief of the took his inspiration from the nearby Madonna and Child and the Holy Fam- 16th century church. The interior is ily, which dates back to 1580 and is at- fairly simple: elliptical in plan, with tributed either to del Duca or to An- seven chapels lined in coloured mar- drea Sansovino. The interior is octago- ble. On the high altar is an ancient im- nal in plan, with chapels, a deep pres- age of the Virgin Mary, which origi- bytery and a vault decorated with gold nates from the Oratory of S. Lorenzo in Laterano. Crossing over Via dei Fori Imperiali at the traffic light, we come to the re- mains of Caesar’s Forum, which was uncovered during the demolition in the last century of the old quarter which had grown up over the area. The excavated part consists of the west porticus and the remains of the podium and temple. The square was built up by the dictator over an area previously occupied by private dwellings, purchased at huge cost in 54 BC. Although it was inaugurated in 46 BC, it was actually only completed by Augustus after Caesar’s death. The Forum represents the prototype for the imperial squares: it consisted of a rectangular area measuring 160 me- tres by 75, in the middle of which stood S. Maria di Loreto: Antonio da Sangallo a statue of the leader on horseback. the Younger and Jacopo del Duca, drum The short side to the north-west was 36 and cupola occupied by the Temple of Venus Gen- 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:57 Pagina 37 Monumental Rome

S. Maria di Loreto, The Madonna be- tween St Sebastian and St Roche (detail)

SS. Nome di Maria, interior

etrix, dedicated by Caesar in 48 BC on Clivus Argentarius, the street of the ar- the eve of the , in gentarii, or moneychangers, and from which was defeated once and there an ancient road descended to for all. As progenitor of Aeneas, Venus the square. was regarded as founder of the Julian Now the slope takes us to an open clan. The temple boasted a pronaos space which contains the church of S. with eight Corinthian columns across Giuseppe dei Falegnami (St Joseph of the front. It contained a statue of the Carpenters), which is named after Venus by Arcesilas, two famous pic- the confraternity which started rent- tures by of Byzantium, ing the pre-existing church of S. Pietro and a gilded bronze statue of Cleopa- in Carcere in 1540. The interior of the tra. Alongside Caesar’s Forum ran the new church of the Carpenters, built

Caesar’s Forum

37 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:58 Pagina 38 walk nd

2 between 1597 and 1663, was entirely refurbished after 1860, and it took on its current external appearance with the lowering of the level of the square in 1941. Inside, half way down the right wall, is the entrance to the Orato- rio dei Falegnami, with its 17th century ceiling in pure gold. The church stands on the ancient prison of the Tullianum, an ancient , interior cistern used by the Romans as a place ed to St Luke from 1577 onwards, it of detention and execution. In the was donated to the Accademia del Diseg- Middle Ages it was known as the no by Sextus V in 1588. It was then that Mamertine Prison. It was the place of the reconstruction of the church be- execution of , , gan, the supervision of building work the supporters of the , those of being entrusted to the Bolognese ar- and and his sons. Ac- chitect Ottaviano Mascarino. The final cording to Christian tradition it is here appearance of the church is, however, that the Apostles Peter and Paul were due to Urban VIII and his nephew Car- imprisoned before being martyred. dinal Francesco Barberini, who en- The facade in travertine blocks dates trusted the reconstruction to Pietro da back to the mid-1st century, and bears Cortona in 1643. The latter restored the inscription of the Consuls Vibius the crypt and executed the splendid Rufinus and Cocceius Nerva. On the facade and cupola, all at his own ex- left of the open space stands the majes- pense. The interior is in the form of a tic church of SS. Luca e Martina (St Greek cross with semi-elliptical apses Luke and St Martina). Originally, the at its ends. The nave floor contains the church was only dedicated to St Marti- tomb of . Over the na, and it was probably founded in the high altar is a copy of Raphael’s St 7th century under Pope I us- Luke painting the Virgin by Antivedu- ing parts of the nearby to Grammatica. The church was fin- . It was ished in 1669, the year of the death of restored by Alexander IV the artist from Cor- in 1256 and, tona. dedi- -

38 SS. Luca e Martina, the facade seen from the Roman Forum 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:58 Pagina 39

How to get there…

Piazza Venezia: H - 30 - 40 - 44 - 46 - 60 - 62 - 63 - 64 - 70 - 81 - 84 - 85 - 87 - 95 - 117 - 119 - 130 - 160 - 170 - 175 - 271 - 492 - 571 - 628 - 630 - 715 - 716 - 780 - 781 -810 - 850 - 916

Piazza del : 3 - 60 - 75 - 81 - 85 - 87 - 117 - 175 - 271 - 571 - 673 - 810 - 850 - Metro B

Tour Lines: 110

Legend: Numbers in bold show the terminus (e.g. 70) the underlined indicate the tram (e.g. 3) those in green are on Mondays - Saturdays (e.g. 30) those in red are only on holidays (e.g. 130) 02-The Monuments of Rome 20-03-2007 16:58 Pagina 40

Comune di Roma Turismo 2 Tourist Information Points

mon-sun 9.30am-7.00pm • Castel Sant’Angelo Piazza Pia • Via dell’Olmata • Piazza Sonnino Trastevere • Via Nazionale near Palazzo Esposizioni • Piazza Cinque Lune - Navona • Via Minghetti - Fontana di Trevi • Visitor Centre Via dei Fori Imperiali mon-sun 9.30am-6.00pm

• Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci Airport - International Arrivals - Terminal C mon-sun 9.00am-6.30pm • Termini Station Via Giolitti 34 - Inside of building F/track 24 mon-sun 8.00am-8.30pm • Ciampino “G.B. Pastine” Airport of Rome mon-sun 9.00am-6.30pm • Lungomare P. Toscanelli - corner Piazza A. Marzio (Ostia Lido) mon-sun 9.30am-7.00pm

Tourism Office Via Leopardi, 24 - 00185 Roma

Tourist Call Centre +39 06 06 08 (daily 9.00 a.m. - 7.30 p.m.)

Municipality pbx +39 06 06 06 www.comune.roma.it www.turismoroma.it [email protected]