Paper for the 2nd Global Conference. , Heritage and Community. An Inclusive Interdiscipli- nary Conference. A Food and Drink in the 21st Century Project. 2019 Prague, Czech Republic A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN TASTES • 1

A 150-Year Shift In Cheese Tastes:

Social, Economic And Cultural Dimensions Of Danish

Jørgen Burchardt National Museum of Science and Technology, [email protected]

Vesterhavsbutikken, Fjaltring. Intro Today, the cheese department in a fatty, lean, sour, sweet and many supermarket or specialty store is fil- other flavor combinations. led with a large variety of cheeses. Cheese has become an integral The exporter can provide tasting part of the Danish meal. Each Dane samples of cheeses, and consumers eats an average of around 15 kg of can choose textures and tastes ran- cheese a year. Parents give their chil- ging from firm, soft, strong, mild, dren cheese to ensure that they in- 2 • Jørgen burchardt gest important vitamins and miner- introduction to the dairy remains als. Some choose cheeses to become clear in my mind. When I got there a meal with a culinary quality simi- at midnight, light flowed from the lar to that of red wine; others buy dairy building’s windows. It was cheese to blend on pizza for flavors winter, and from the parked cars, and different textures, while others two sets of footprints went up to buy chunks of cheese for a quick the entrance door. I followed the addition to the traditional lunch box tracks, and when I opened the door, or snack. I was surprised by a strong smell. It has taken many years to achieve My first thought was "baby puke", this level of consumption, although but the smell of sour wasn't at our latitudes we have had cheese quite as unpleasant as if a baby had for thousands of years. Danes’ op- slipped off one’s shoulder. portunities for eating cheese have The dairymen had arrived to changed according to technological prepare the milk for cheese making. developments in agriculture, trade First, they would add lactic acid cul- patterns, economic cycles, and com- ture to the milk so that it was ready petition from other . to have rennet added around 4 a.m., The article highlights some of when a few more dairymen would the most important elements of arrive. When the had solidified, cheese’s cultural and historical jour- it would be cut into pieces and the ney. whey pumped off. Then, the next team of dairymen would come to A meeting with a dairy pour the cheeses into moulds. When It’s difficult to describe taste. I the cheese container was empty, the discovered this a few years ago, next of the dairy’s six daily produc- when one of Denmark’s most im- tions could begin. This is how the portant cheese dairies, Brørup Me- working day went at this dairy and, jeri, had to be closed down. I was with some variations, it was similar contacted to save the dairy’s history, to those at other dairies all over the and as a trained ethnologist, I star- world. ted with fieldwork. I knew nothing In advance, I was going to save about dairies, so I said, spontane- the dairy’s last cheese at the local ously, that I wanted to start my work museum, but a conservator said at the dairy. that it was impossible to preserve a It turned out that the first dairy- cheese. The dairy made a copy of men arrived at midnight, and my a Spanish Manchego cheese, and in A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 3

Archaeologists often encounter simple earthenware with holes in the bottom, like this one dated to the Roman Iron Age. More than a thousand sieves are registered in the museums’ collections. We know from historical time that the curd is kept in place by a cloth in the bot- tom, while the whey left. Photo Ski- ve Museum.

the following months, I got to know jective attributes. For taste, a judge the cheese well. It tasted good, bet- checks whether the product’s taste ter than its Spanish counterpart. aligns with the standard taste for How could knowledge about the the type of cheese, or whether there taste of this cheese be ensured for is a taste of feed or yeast or if the the future? is rancid. In addition, whether a An expert in taste is able to iden- cheese is aromatic and has the right tify many hundreds of flavors. Arla, acidity and a taste of salt are other the large Scandinavian dairy, has an attributes that are judged. expert who judges some of its new- ly developed cheeses, and the expert The long way of the cheese had 600 tastes to use in her descrip- Archaeologists often encounter ex- tion. cavations of sieves, which are simp- However, the daily assessment le clay pits with holes in the bottom, of cheeses in the dairy industry has such as the one dated to the Roman been reduced to only 20 different Iron Age. More than a thousand main categories. In a judge’s guide are registered in the collections of for cheeses at cheese exhibitions, cultural history museums all over the visual character must be judged the country. We know from writ- by the cheese’s exterior, color, struc- ten sources how sieves were used ture, texture, aroma, and taste, as for making cheese; the solid cheese well as its packaging in some cases. must be held firmly by a cloth in the Aroma and taste are the most sub- bottom of the vat while the whey 4 • Jørgen burchardt

Gorgonzola 879 Year for first known mention of cheese types. Throug- hout experiments, cheeses have been developed with 1000 characteristic flavors. They are often developed within Roquefort 1070 a geographical area, so the name has become a kind of brand for the cheeses. This list shows some of the Marolles 1174 best known ones. Scott, Robinson and Wilbey 1986, 7. Schwangenkäse 1178 Grana 1200 Taleggio 1282 Cheddar 1500 Parmesan 1579 Gouda 1697 Gloucester 1783 Stilton 1785 Camembert 1791 St. Paulin 1816 runs from the coagulated milk mass. ing milk products as adults. In fact, Likewise, sieves have similarly been many people with lactose intoler- used for cheese making since the ance can eat cheeses as they usually end of the third millennium, 3,000 contain very little lactose. years before Christ. Around the year 100 AD, the Danes are born to eat dairy Roman historian Tacitus wrote that products; it is literally stamped in the Germans used as a food- our DNA. For 7,000–10,000 years, stuff. It is certain that knowledge of our culture has been based on the cheese making arrived with the Vi- milking of livestock, and this has kings when Iceland was colonized. meant that we have been able to We know from the Icelandic sagas survive better than peoples who that cheese was produced from relied on a purely vegan diet or by sheep's milk. In addition, a petri- hunting alone. Since the middle of fied cheese was found in a building the fourth millennium, milk prod- which, according to the Njál , ucts have improved the economic burned down around the year 1000 base for residents in Denmark, and AD after a manmade fire, even 96–97% of Danes do not develop though one person tried to extin- lactose intolerance, which would guish the fire by whipping whey at have prevented us from consum- it. Laboratory studies were found A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 5 to show traces of curd. Thus, from The cheeses from the Danish historical records, we know about region of Thy were sought, in par- the production of fresh cheese. ticular, and they were even award- It was made from milk or - ed a silver medal in 1791 by the milk, where acidification created Royal Danish Agricultural Society the cheese. Like butter, it could be for a thesis on how priests spous- stored longer than milk. and es produced their cheeses for the cottage cheese are examples of con- benefit of imitation elsewhere in temporary fresh cheeses. the country. The historian Troels However, another technique Troels-Lund stated in his work on was needed to produce long-lasting daily life in the Nordic countries in cheeses. Stored cheeses were based the 16th century that, across Scan- on rennet, where the active element dinavia, there was a geographic was enzymes from calves. After the area from Thy over to Halland in rennet was added to the milk, the Sweden where giant cheeses were cheese material (casein) was depos- produced. It is said that they were ited, and it could be stored for a honored to make them so large be- long time after draining and drying. cause connoisseurs knew that the During storage, a further conversion milk had to be supplied on one and of the cheese occurred, producing the same day, could finish from the tasty flavors. It is probably an old size of the cheese to the wealth of tradition, which is described in a the owner. cookbook published in 1868. The This form of production has farmer’s wife made her own rennet been widespread. It is known that from dried calf ’s stomach, where a taxes have often had to be paid in teaspoonful was added to six buck- kind, and cheeses have been men- ets of milk, with cumin or nutmeg tioned specifically as a form of pay- to taste. The milk was stirred when ment. For example, in 1249 the bish- it congealed, and the whey could be op in Ribe asked that each household removed. The curd was put into a deliver a cheese. In 1690, a farmer mould with a cloth to drip from, owed a priest a goose, four loaves and after a few days of regular turn- of bread, and a cheese for midsum- ing, it would become dry enough to mer. The custom of remuneration lay on a shelf for further ripening. in kind lasted a long time. From the In the first days, it had to be turned mid-1800s comes an anecdote that frequently, washed in lukewarm wa- when a cleric’s wife was to make ter, and wiped. cheese, she sent a message with the 6 • Jørgen burchardt

The Swedish writer Olaus Magnus wrote in 1555 in his description of Scandinavia that was a stroke across Scandinavia from Thy of Halland, where you produced such great giant cheese that two men with difficulty could wear them for a short distance. They were made so large because connoisseurs knew that the milk had to be obtained on one and the same day, so that the size of the cheese showed the amount of the owner’s submissive. Magnus 1555, 466.

schoolchildren that on a specific day a natural food. When Bishop Wil- she wanted to make cheese. On the liam joined Eskilsø Kloster in 1161 appointed day, the farmers’ wives as manager, he had to complain to came with milk for the cheese. From the Pope about the bad economy 1843, there is a story that the parish on the spot. For example, he found clerks and priests were thus made only a store of half a ham and sev- the best sweet milk cheese, which en cheeses. As a king in the early they subsequently sold at good pric- 1200s, Valdemar Sejr got 6½ kg es. According to the old statutes, ev- of butter and cheese daily, and two ery man in the parish was required night coats for the king and his men to give the priest, the clerk, the dis- was 360 cheeses and some butter trict bailiff, and in some places the . Dairy products were covered by school teacher, the midwife, and the Catholic Church’s rules on fast- perhaps the blacksmith a portion ing. However, the church created of milk. This was usually expected a good business shortly before the around midsummer when milk was Reformation by selling “relief let- abundant. Suppliers often ordered ters”, also known as “butter letters”, at noon as milk from the morning whereby the buyer of such a letter milking was fatty. was allowed to eat butter and cheese For the wealthy, cheese has been during a period of fasting. The A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 7

Swedish author Olaus Magnus in his but instead they stole a whole-milk description of Scandinavia included cheese, which the farmer’s wife had a chapter on cheese, in which men- made for the priest. It was probably tion was made of such large cheeses skimmed-milk cheese that sailors that two men with partners could were given. It was said that a larger carry them only a short distance. sailing ship for long-distance travel Not only did the most prosper- was bought in the 17th century for ous citizens get the best cheeses. It the crew, but the approximately 10 is said that, on the island of Læsø, cheeses allotted per man fermented the young girls made “girl cheese”. quickly down in the ship’s hold and After they had helped on differ- caused a terrible stench. ent farms in the winter, they went There was a certain market for to those farms during the summer cheese. Already by the 11th centu- and were given abundant milk as a ry, there was a lively export of dairy kind of consideration for the work products from Schleswig-Holstein. they had done. They used the milk In 1583 alone, more than 1,000 tons to make a cheese with a diameter of of cheese were sent by ship from the 30–40 cm, significantly larger than port city of Tönning in Holsten; in the normal daily cheese of only 20 the record-setting year 1610, it was cm, which out-of-town buyers pre- more than 1,500 tons. The marsh ferred. In about 1800, workers on was favored by cattle for grazing. Læsø usually did not get cheese, but The geography in Denmark was dif- when they were hired for a job such ferent, and agriculture was arranged as plowing, haying, or shoveling, at that time for more versatile use. It they were served meat, pork, butter is estimated that a typical farm was and cheese . largely self-sufficient in terms of Sheep’s milk cheese was made grains and dairy products. in the earlier time. In the late 1700s, the cheese in Jutland, on Funen Phase two: From self-sufficien- and Falster, weighed about 6 kg, cy to craft while the Zealanders rarely weighed In Denmark, cheese production over 1 kg, probably due to small- was considered a by-product that er herds. Most cheeses were made the farmer’s wife made. Certain pla- from cow’s milk in the 1800s. It is ces abroad dominated the market said that when some beggars walked for milk production in agriculture, around on farms and picked food, and here cheeses were developed they got a skimmed-milk cheese, that were sought after in Denmark, 8 • Jørgen burchardt

When Ms Karen Nielsen from a large farm was photographed in 1881, she was dressed in her work clothes. She made cheese, because in her hand she has a cheese grip used to cut the curd into small pieces, so that the whey could run from the cheese grains. Photo H. Tønnies, Aalborg City Archives 851-01B34352.

especially cheeses from , nicknamed “Dutch” as a sign that Holland, and that were the person had an understanding occasionally introduced. In the best of dairy farming. Later, the name mercantilist spirit, farmers in Den- Dutch came to be used for dairy ex- mark tried to produce the same perts. When the king set up a barn cheeses. However, doing so requi- at in 1623, equipment red both knowledge of technology was ordered for a dairy with cheese and, at the same time, extensive moulds, sieves and two large cheese experience adapting to the changing vats of stone. “Dutch” also became conditions with variations in we- an institutional synonym with the ather temperatures, fat percentages leasing of a farm’s cattle. It has been in milk, quantities, and much more. estimated that 25% of the country’s High-quality cheese production had dairy cows were controlled by such become a specialized craft. a “Dutch” in 1782. When King Christian IV em- The purpose of the Royal Dan- ployed a bailiff, he or she was ish Agricultural Society was to im- A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 9 prove the dominant agricultural The publication of these stories industry, and the production of continued throughout the 1800s. cheese belonged to one of the side Many of the first publications did activities. The society encouraged not contribute actual new knowl- enterprising people. For example, edge except for the two methods: they supported the gathering of prepressed cheese, where the curd knowledge with a prize for the au- is lifted from the whey without air thor of a paper with the English ti- getting into the curd, whereby only tle “Notification of Preparation of a few large holes occur, and the sec- the Cheese from Thy”, which was ond method with dipped cheese, subsequently printed in 1800. The where the cheese gets air between cheese from Thy was also the in the cheese grains, so there are many centrum for a price for a paper on small holes. introduction of the cheeses for ne- Exhibitions gradually became an gotiation in Copenhagen. Produc- important method of disseminating tion of cheeses also gave awards in knowledge. Through awards, the the period 1790–1799, while chees- best producers could be encour- es of the types from Switzerland aged to continue to improve their and from Gloucester were awarded products. The Agricultural Society the following decades. Among other held a number of exhibitions, and honors, a gold medal was given to among the exhibits of tools and a priest cheese for the wife of the animals, cheeses were occasional- poet and priest Steen Steensen Bli- ly given space as well. Exhibitions cher in 1829 for the production of gradually developed to be the indus- an imitation of an English Glouces- try’s showcase, even though it took ter cheese. many years. Starting in 1845, large Another publication in English, farmers' assemblies led the German “Cattle breeding and dairy on the model farmers to gather together, Dutchman farms in the Holstein allowing them to exchange experi- and Schleswig”, was published in ences on operating modes. At the Danish in 1854. Herein, the domi- exhibitions, there was also room nant method of cattle farming was for the cheeses. For the assembly described including the production in 1869, cheeses were called for. of cheeses. It was so extensive that The wish-list was divided into five when cheeses were sold for skippers groups, the first being sweet-milk for sale to Norway, Sweden and Co- cheese with a dense mass prepared penhagen. according to a Danish, English, 10 • Jørgen burchardt

Dutch or a “related method”. The cheeses during the three hot sum- second type was whole-milk cheese mer months when the milk was with a piped mass prepared in the most abundant. She worked from “Swiss mode” method. The third 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. to produce ched- and fourth types were skimmed- dar cheese. Such a long time could milk cheeses prepared in a Danish not be used for the evening milk, or Holstein method or by other which instead became an ordinary methods. Finally, other cheeses were sweet-milk cheese, which the maid found in the fifth group. The chees- could handle in the time from 7 p.m. es were rated and their characters to 10 p.m. assigned by a committee. There was a dairy superstar who At the Farmers’ Assembly in repeatedly won prizes at exhibitions, 1861, 16 cheeses were exhibited; in although her farm had milk from 1863 and 1866, there were 35 chees- only 14 cows. Her name was Hanne es; and in 1869, the number had Nielsen and she was from the Ha- risen to 53. There were 13 whole- vartigården in North Zealand. The milk cheeses, and five were whole- Danish cheese is named milk cheese with whipped cream. for her efforts. She was an accom- More than half of the cheese was plished dairywoman, and at the same skimmed-milk cheese, where 28 time, she received help from the of the 31 were made according to country’s first dairy consultant, T.R. the Danish or Holstein method. To Segelcke, who had been hired by the these were added four other chees- Agriculture Association to advice es. farmers based on his agricultural The exhibition of cheeses was science background. Hanne Niel- then divided into two classes: one sen learned about the production for farms with more than 24 cows, of foreign cheeses through study and one for smaller farms. It was trips to Barsebäck, Sweden, where realized that small farms would find an Englishman successfully pro- it difficult to cope with the great duced cheddar cheese. In 1867, she use of larger quantities of milk to travelled to Norway to learn about make cheese. The milk could not be whey cheese, to England in 1869 to saved, so cheeses could not exceed learn about cheeses from Somerset- what a day’s milking could provide. shire and Cheshire, and to Holland Making cheese was also a great job to learn about cheeses from Edam for a small farm. In 1864, a farmer and Gouda. Then in 1872, she went noted that his maid started making to Switzerland for cheese from Em- A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 11

The milk dishes stood neatly in rows on a Jutland farm in 1860, so after a period the cream could collect on the surface and skimmed off with a spoon before further processing in the butter core in the background. Hand foaming gave the skimmed milk a certain amount of fat. Appeal 1918, 256. menthal and, finally, to France for stored for only a short time, only cheese from Roquefort and Cam- small quantities of milk from each embert. She also developed a Tilsiter single farm could be used to pro- cheese, which was delivered to King duce cheese. However, cheeses Christian IX. Based on the king’s should be available in large amounts desire, it was made with cumin. Her in order to develop the products as a success was due not only to her skill sought-after commodity. Only large but also because she was the first estates had enough cows that their and, thus, the leader in the field. She dairies could produce large volumes had a number of trainees on the rel- of cheeses. One owner of a large atively small farm who worked dili- estate was the important merchant, gently on cheese production, but at Constantin Brun, who had made a the same time, Hanne Nielsen was lot of money on grain trading, so paid a relatively high amount, more he could expand his business to than most farm workers earned. farming by buying the Antvorskov Danish farms were generally Manor. In 1801, he convened three small, and since the milk could be Swiss families to produce Swiss 12 • Jørgen burchardt

The ideal for a modern dairy in 1888 with machine-driven centrifuges and beginning piping of milk was set up at the Nordic Agricultural and Art Exhibition in Copenhagen. To the right is a cheese vessel and in the foreground filled cheese molds. Photo Juncker-Jensen, Royal Library DT023141.

cheese. The large cheeses had to be or, Baron Selbye attempted to make stored 2–3 years before they were cheeses “in the English manner”, ready to sell, but after those years, which were probably, copies of the the trade went well, with exports English cheddar cheese. The econ- even to Russia and the Caribbean. omy in the production of cheese He stated that producing cheese was generally never good, although provided a better profit than mak- export duties on dairy products ing butter, and other manors mim- were abolished in 1819–1820, while icked his production but failed to import duties increased in 1821 by have the same luck. Their storage almost 50%. time for cheeses was cut, which “in- The technology of the dairies creased the amount of the product was improved by the use of new at the expense of goodness” as stat- techniques. Since the mid-1870s, it ed in 1810. At the Bekkeskov Man- was known that cooling milk using A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 13 running water or with stored ice ture and storage. The participating from the winter improved the milk dairies had a lead mark for a few and reduced the risk of the chees- days to stamp on the cheese at the es developing unfavorably. Before time of manufacturing to ensure the centrifuge, the whole milk had that all cheeses were just as old at to be left standing still in order for the assessment approximately three the cream to collect on the surface. months later. This could take 36 hours, and espe- Any attempt to produce cially in the summer with a lot of high-quality cheese that could be milk, much could go wrong. The exported with good yields became cooling reduced the risk so that one a mistake. The son of the landlord could wait to foam the cream after Hofman said about his father's ex- 48 hours, which resulted in a larger periment with cheese: “My father amount of cream. has since continued the trials but Several contractors tried cheese has not yet come to the result he making. In 1836, the Royal Dan- desires and regrets that no one {in ish Agriculture Society wanted to Denmark] has yet gained the ex- use science to develop dairy prod- perience the British have acquired ucts, and in 1836, experiments with through centuries of observations”. cheese production began in coop- Seventy-five years later, after eration with the Society for Natural more than 100 years of efforts to Learning. This was done in coop- improve Danish cheese making, eration with the landlord Hofman the verdict was the same in 1918. (Bang) at the Hofmansgave Manor. Only Trock’s Danish Swiss Cheese Production went better for P. Trock, was rated a success. It was judged who, beginning in 1881, produced in 1895 that “His cheese is hardly cheese on various leased farms. distinguishable from the best Dutch He made “Danish Swiss Cheese”, product”. Dutch cheese varieties, Emmentaler The most common cheese was a cheese and whey cheese. In 1907, he skimmed-milk cheese which could established a factory for producing be sold to Norway and Sweden. It Emmentaler cheese. was also called Dutch cheese, and Experiments with new meth- as it forms a hard rind shortly af- ods were conducted, and beginning ter pressing, it was also called by in 1896, systems were developed the German name lederkäse (leather with an associated publication of cheese), which is what a commenta- a detailed description of manufac- tor called it in 1843. 14 • Jørgen burchardt

Except for the aforementioned of milk were available. In particular, parish clerk and priest cheeses, the centrifuge became a central tool sweet-milk cheese was rarely sold. with two major advantages in dairy Many different cheeses were made farming. First, it worked quickly; in – fresh cheese, aged cheese, green a matter of hours, it could complete Swiss cheese, buttermilk cheese – a process that, otherwise, took more but these were most often for per- than one day. Second, the centrifuge sonal consumption. In the summer, recovered a larger proportion of the one of the peasants’ favorite foods milk’s cream. was a smoked fresh cheese. The traditional method of pro- ducing skimmed-milk cheese was The big mechanized dairies introduced from Holsten, where In many ways, dairy history in the the milk was used for butter and second half of the 1800s was an skim milk was used in the house- exciting time when much changed. hold, for calves, and for cheese as There were four important changes a by-product. Traditionally, the milk for dairy operations. First, the pro- was foamed before it became sour, cess was mechanized as the steam often within 24 hours, so there was engine could operate many new to- still a significant amount of fat in ols. The second change was the use the skimmed milk. of scientific methods involving the Paradoxically, the centrifuge was use of thermometers and systema- a backdrop to the manufacture of tic record-keeping of events. That cheese. The skimmed milk was giv- meant, thirdly, that the craft moved en a lesser fat content so the cheeses from being handled by women to a deteriorated sharply. Instead of us- new group, dairies operated by men. ing it for cheese, it was found to be Fourth, at the same time, the units economical for feeding pigs. Some became larger, and now milk was dairies even considered establishing pooled from many smaller farms. In pig farms, but for the most part, 1875, the wholesaler Gunni Busck it was best to return the skimmed established the country’s first sha- milk to the suppliers’ farms. In the red dairy, Dairy, which 1880s, after research on the newly was quickly followed by several on formed Royal Veterinary and Agri- a private basis and as cooperatives. culture High School, it became clear Shared dairies could now compe- that the leaner the cheeses were, the te with the large manor dairies to more water they should contain. make cheese when large amounts During storage, the shrinkage could A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 15

The Copenhagen bourgeoi- sie had a large selection of cheeses, as can be seen from the advertisement from 1890. The most expensive was the genuine Roquefort for DKK 1.45 for a pound, while the Danish “fat, sharp dairy che- ese” could be obtained from DKK 0.18. Politiken June 28, 1890, p. 4.

be curtailed by providing the chees- islated that milk would be pasteur- es with a suitable thickness and by ized at 80°C. This effort, however, providing sufficient moisture in the had some negative consequences storage spaces. for cheese making as the properties The research began to provide a of the milk also changed in an un- better scientific basis for the dairy fortunate direction. industry's craft. Thus, later, Profes- In the late 1800s, the dominant sor V. S. Storch found it appropriate Danish cheese was still skimmed- to use pure cultures for the acidifi- milk cheese. It was not a gastro- cation of cream, whereby the qual- nomic wonder, but it was inexpen- ity was considerably increased. An- sive and nutritious. Its characteristic other of the college’s researchers, as being boring can still be noted C.O. Jensen, found it appropriate from writers who grew up with to pasteurize milk so that certain E. these cheeses. Ellen Duurloo, born coli bacteria were killed by heating in 1888, in the 1940 novel Huset it to 65–70°C. Pasteurization could på pynten made the comment, “Yes, also ensure that tuberculosis in cat- you are probably better accustomed tle was not spread when otherwise than as to fat clamps and skimmed- infected skimmed milk would have milk cheese”. Alexander Svedstrup, been returned to all farms behind born in 1864, in his 1923 novel the shared dairy. In 1898, it was leg- Erik Gudmand was a little kinder 16 • Jørgen burchardt

It became an end to make rennet from calf stomachs around the farms and dairies when Christian Hansen had invented a way to produce an uniform rennet. Jyllandspo- sten April 12, 1874, 4.

in his remark: “His eyesight shone consisted exclusively of buttermilk. as adorable as any Western Jutland Monastery cheese and star cheese skimmed-milk cheese of them with were new types made from finished the cumin in.” cheeses. The manufacturers bought Other types of cheeses were skimmed-milk cheese from the dair- also made. Swiss types such as Em- ies, which were only one to two days menthal were made only in some old, and after picking and process- places, but the Danish cheeses, ing, the cheeses were packed in indi- unlike the Norwegian and Finnish vidual packaging. copies, were very different from Overall, there were major prob- the real cheese, as they were small- lems in maintaining quality. Even er and thinner while the pulp was the cheeses that dairies had sent much softer and the “eyes” smaller. to cheese exhibitions could be de- Cheddar cheese was made by sev- scribed as having “no value as mer- eral, while some attempted a copy chandise”, being “black-gray or of Roquefort. Green Alpine cheese gray-yellow, smelly centrifuge milk was produced by acid instead of by cheese with thick, hole and skid rennet, like Norwegian old cheese. rind”, and “so disgusting and nas- A cheese named “Appetite cheese” ty that there is great overcoming to was made from skimmed milk and a touch thereby than say enjoy it with little buttermilk, while fresh cheese pleasure.” A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 17

Cheese vats in rows in Denmark’s largest cooperative dairy Trifolium in 1915. Still, the stirring was carried out in the large vats with a cheese grip. At that time, few dairies produced cheese, and if they did, they rarely had more than one cheese vat. The Labor Movement Library and Archives, picture 33.

The efforts of dairy consultants, The dairies were run and led by a cheese wholesalers and good dairies dairy manager with experience and seemed to be fruitless, and the many often even some theoretical educa- prize awards and trials had not been tion. The technical tools were con- useful either, according to the pes- stantly improving, with some dairies simistic assessment of the cheese even having their own refrigeration industry in the 19th century in 1909. plant and laboratory for the recom- mended tests. Towards good times Most plants were used for large- After the turn of the century, Den- scale production of cream, whole mark had a well-functioning dairy milk and butter. However, there was sector. All parts of the country were also progress in the cheese area with covered with dairies, and the ap- better cheese vats, mechanical stir- proximately 1,800 dairies gathered rers, and the beginning of using par- milk from small and large suppliers. affin, with the protective layer facili- 18 • Jørgen burchardt

Three principles for making cheese es, but in the domestic market, the Danish cheeses outperformed many Round-eye types such as Samsø and Em- of the foreign cheeses. merthal. Before the whey is drained, the cheese grains are pressed into a conti- The progress in cheese produc- nuous block below the whey. The whey tion was further strengthened as is drained and the cheese is poured into the Norwegian Ole Wennevold was smaller blocks, which are put into moulds. The cheese develops large, regular holes employed in 1904 by the Danish during storage. Dairymen Association as a consul-

Kneaded cheeses include types like Maribo tant in cheese making. The former and Gouda. After the whey is drained, the dairy consultants were criticized for cheeses are stirred or kneaded vigorous- having given theoretical guidance ly with salt, and the curd is poured into moulds. In this way, air is kneaded into the only, and this led to the dairy farm- cheese, which then develops many small ers hiring a consultant themselves. irregular holes. As noted by an industry expert in Dipped cheese types such as Havarti and 1931 “with all respect for all the Port de Salut. The cheese is fished or pum- good names that can be mentioned ped with whey into moulds and pressed with their own weight. They also develop in this connection, how many of many small, irregular holes. them themselves were able to pro- duce a cheese that could serve as an example and be indicative of pro- tating the work of the large cheeses, duction?” reducing shrinkage and improving Still, Danish cheese was not full the appearance of the cheeses by fat, and although Wennevold ad- maintaining a smooth, thin and vised making cheese from pasteur- clean rind. ized milk, most dairymen preferred The dairies still produced butter to use untreated milk. One followed for export and milk for consump- the principles of a price quote from tion in big cities. Many dairies had a 1890: “An easily understandable and cheese vat, but they were used only complete description of how to pre- to produce cheese for their own pare a good, easy-to-sell household consumption. Only a few dairies cheese from low-fat, centrifuged had a larger-scale production. milk.” It was based on the technique Slowly, the conditions for the of the old Holstein dairy system and cheese market changed. Still, the ex- adapted to large quantities of milk. port markets were a distant dream The technique consisted of add- for a dairy industry exclusively with ing skimmed milk to whole milk copied and no significant chees- and 5–10% buttermilk. The chees- A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 19

With the increasing consumption of cheese, the number of outlets increased. Here is a cheese sale in the early 1900s. The Labor Movement Library and Archives.

ing and after-heat happened at fairly The cheeses were judged to have a low temperatures, and the curd was tendency to mature too quickly, and often processed after the whey had when they were 3–5 months old, the run out so that it got quite dry in the cheese was frequently crispy and un- large molds. The cheeses weighed pleasant tasting. 20 kg and were always put in brine. Danish Swiss Cheese was made They were later judged as accept- successfully and had progressed. It able, but neither did the judges look had succeeded in making it close any further: “It had a powerful, not to the Swedish Herregårdsost (manor always pure taste, a firm and fairly house cheese). No pure culture was bold consistency, and especially as used in addition to the usual acid a quarter-fat cheese, it gained much addition in contrast to any other recognition for domestic consump- round-eye cheeses. tion, while the few attempts which Many other types of cheeses had were done to export this cheese did been experimented with –- Roque- not succeed.” fort, whey cheese, Swiss cheese – Next to this cheese was prepared and for the Emmenthal cheese and one cheese for which the curd was Camembert, the results were so lifted from the whey into moulds. good that the foreign imports al- Large quantities of the traditional most stopped. Danish kneaded cheese were pro- Dedicated cheese exhibitions duced. It was no longer set in large were resumed in 1890. Now chees- round shapes but in smaller shapes es were exhibited in groups ac- about the size of the Dutch Gouda. cording to their fat content. At the 20 • Jørgen burchardt

The curd is raised of the whey by Svendborg Milk Supply in the 1960s. The method was used for and other “chopped” che- eses - the concept of the chunk comes from the subsequent process, in which pieces of the curd are cut out to be put in molds. Odense City Ar- B27385.

same time, the state and the Danish Association of Copenhagen after Dairymen Association had support- its start in 1916 was to complain to ed experimental production, where the authorities about too much wa- dairies competed to improve the ter in the cheese. The whey dripped manufacturing processes, so that down from the cheese shelves in the the associated exhibitions with the shops. The authorities were respon- 3-month-old cheeses presented a sive, and a law on cheeses was intro- careful documentation of the meth- duced with rules for the content of ods. water and fat. At the outbreak of the First The development of larger-scale World War, market conditions cheese production was also acceler- changed, and tight control of the ated by the fact that the rearing of food supply for the population was pigs was reduced due to a lack of introduced, including detailed max- feed imports, so it would be better imum prices for cheese. The import to use skimmed milk for cheese pro- of foreign cheeses decreased and duction. Out of 1,503 dairies, cheese eventually stopped. At the same was produced on 602,- especially in time, neutral Denmark had good the southeast of Jutland; 241 dairies opportunities to trade, which result- produced only whole-milk cheese, ed in a sharp increase in the coun- 161 only skimmed-milk cheese, and try’s cheese production. Demand 200 produced both types. However, was high, so the quality saw the dair- a minimal part of the milk was still ies less. One of the first initiatives used for cheese and often only for undertaken by the Cheese Handler the milk suppliers’ own consump- A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 21

A danablu cheese on Marslev Dairy in the 1950s loosened from its cheese mold after the whey has run out sufficiently for the cheese to become firm. The dairy was the place where the Da- nish cheese type was developed. At right the cheeses are in brine to be salted. Photo Svend Turck, Royal Library, 61705. tion; In 1914, to produce more than however, a problem was caused by 15,000 tons of cheese, most dair- the large number of variants; it is ies used only 1% of the milk for stated that there were 21 different cheese. The production of butter mixed cheeses, so buyers found it still dominated. The statistics also difficult to find uniform types. reported on geographical differenc- In 1930, the number of cheese es. Most places in Jutland produced dairies with larger-scale produc- skimmed-milk cheese, while four- tion had risen to 588. An inventory fifths of the cheese on the islands showed that 90% of the production was whole-milk cheese. There was was solid cheeses, half of which a tendency towards slightly fattier were the Gouda type, 12% Swiss cheeses. In the whole country, only a type, and 12% Tilsit type. However, quarter of the cheeses in 1914 were the majority of the dairies still pro- skimmed-milk cheese, where the duced cheese only when there was proportion had been 57% in 1905. excess milk. Although some of the exported cheeses did not have the best qual- Organization of production and ity, the production of cheese for sales export continued at a relatively high The development, production and level after the war. In terms of sales, sale of cheese took place for many 22 • Jørgen burchardt

current order still defines cheeses according to their shape and prop- erties, including descriptions of their aromas and tastes. Cheese is a living product, and as such, it can vary a lot from time to time. Even cheeses from a single dairy can be different from year to The cheese grains are dipped in the molds at year. In fact, in industrialized dairy Brørup Omegns Dairy in the 1960s. The goal farms, taste can even vary between was to be able to fill a mold with 100 grams accuracy for a 6 kg cheese. Local history archi- the same cheeses from cheese vat ve for Brørup. to cheese vat made the same day. The first dairy farmers in the morn- years in a large number of indepen- ing are often taking a set of chees- dent companies. The great societal es from the ready-to-go cheeses to interest due to the close association judge their quality. A cheese must be of the industry with the importance taken from each vat. of agriculture provided some po- In the inter-war period, a field litical benefits that were unknown of cheeses had been separated from in other industries. The state esta- the export markets. As has been blished legislation with a tight fra- seen from the foregoing, the shapes mework for cheeses’ properties, and other properties of cheese have and sales were heavily managed, for changed over time. Below is a pic- some periods stronger than others. ture of the situation in 1938, when In a way, the industry functioned at cheeses were characterized by a times as a cartel supported by the committee with Professor S. Or- state. la-Jensen, assistant H.C. Jørgensen, The Dairy Act of 1921 intended and cheese consultant N.P. Hansen. to bring order to the existing chaos However, this first description regarding the types and varieties of of Danish cheeses did not last Danish cheeses. The main actor in long. It was discussed, and sugges- this work had been dairy consultant tions for changes came into being G. v. Ellbrecht, and the Ministry of as the cheeses produced changed Agriculture recognized his efforts significantly in the dairies. In con- by having the cheese law go into nection with the naming of the effect on the consultant's birthday. Danish cheeses in 1952, the chees- This legislation still exists where the es were once again to be described, A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 23

While cheeses are freshly prepared, they must be turned regularly to keep their shape. It is handwork, as here when turning svendbo cheeses in 1990. The Labor Movement Library and Archives.

and virtually all descriptions were be used on the packaging. For all changed; the most important chang- cheeses except Danish Feta, only es are shown below. One differ- cow’s milk could be used. ence was that the previously called “hard cheeses” were designated as Solid cheeses “semi-solid”. This is probably due According to the description in to the fact that Denmark has rare- 1938, Emmenthaler cheese was a flat, ly produced the very solid types of cylindrical cheese, 15 cm high and cheeses in the style of Parmesan 80–90 cm in diameter weighing 90– and Grana. At the same time, the 110 kg. It had to be produced with hardness of the cheese was deter- at least 45% fat in the dry matter mined from measured water con- and unpasteurized milk. The taste tent (which is not included in the was mild and nutty and the smell list). An extra-hard cheese had less sweet. It had holes up to 2½ cm than 51% water in the non-fat curd, large, and it reached maturity after and for soft cheeses, the proportion 6–8 months. In 2016, the holes were was over 67%. up to 3 cm, and the taste descrip- The description below comes tion was expanded by the fact that from the original outline. The devel- there was a taste from the propionic opment of cheeses has, of course, acid fermentation. The cheese did continued, and the current position not get a name in 1952, presumably is included through the Ministry because the Danish Swiss cheese in of Agriculture's description in the a way replaced it. current report on dairy products A Danish cheese was named in 2016. Here, there are 42 named Svenbo in 1974 in addition to the cheeses, which had to be produced original cheeses. It was close to the in a certain way if the name was to Norwegian cheese Jarlsberg. 24 • Jørgen burchardt

Danbo

Havarti Danish smoked fresh cheese

Danablu White Mold Cheese

Gouda has the shape of a flat cyl- by kneading was named Maribo. It is inder with rounded edges and sides; now produced in sizes down to ¼ it ranges in size from 1 to 17 kg. It is kg, with the most common, howev- made from 20–45% fat in dry mat- er, weighing 14 kg with a diameter of ter, preferably of pasteurized milk. approximately 43 cm. Its taste was Few dairies produce the type with quite strongly sour, and it was the regular holes. The maturation is 2–5 strongest-colored Danish cheese. months. In 1952, the cheese made The maturation was reduced to a A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 25 minimum of 1½ months. In 2016, Edam cheese was made in two the size increased to a minimum variants. One was a tropical edam- of 2½ kg (except for special baby er for export, and another was the cheeses), and the fat content was bread cheese of 5–6 kg. The latter increased to a minimum of 30%. was given the name Elbo in 1952, The maturation was further reduced when the maturation time was set to to a minimum of three weeks. In 1½–3 months. In 2016, the size of 1952, the round-eyed version of the smallest holes was reduced to 2 the cheese was named . It is mm. quite similar to Maribo but is typical- Danish Swiss cheese is made with ly smaller at 6–7 kg and a diameter 30–45% fat of low-temperature of approximately 31 cm. It is made pasteurized milk. It is a slightly sour from low-temperature pasteurized cheese with a relatively mild taste milk containing factory-made ren- and regular, rather large holes. The net and ordinary acidification cul- cheese is round with a relatively low ture, giving it a mild, aromatic flavor height of 10 cm and 42–45 cm in and regular round holes of 5–8 mm. diameter and usually weighs 15–17 Danish dairy cheese has the shape kg. The maturation is 4 months. In of Gouda but is taller. It usually has 1952, it was named Samsø. It was al- a lower fat content, has irregular lowed to be manufactured down to holes and is strongly acidified with 13 kg but also in a diameter up to a sharp taste. 48 cm. It has been mentioned that Edamer cheese is a round cheese it was often stored for 5–6 months. of 2–3 kg, where the Danish cheese In 2016, square shapes were also al- has a slightly different structure than lowed and the shelf life was reduced the original Dutch with a slightly to 3 weeks. stronger souring. It has a mild taste Steppeosten was originally in the and round, regular holes of ½–1 cm. same family as but It is made with 20–45% fat content, was closer to a square Danish Swiss mainly of low-temperature pasteur- cheese, 7–8 cm high and then 30– ized milk. In 1952, it was given the 35 cm, with a weight of 7–8 kg. In name Molbo, and weight down to 1 1952, the name changed to , kg was allowed. Its taste was charac- and it had a slightly smaller size of terized as salty, and it had a ripening 25 cm and a weight of approximate- time of 2–5 months. In 2016, the ly 6 kg. It was made from low-tem- maturation period was reduced to at perature pasteurized milk from fac- least 3 weeks. tory-made rennet and an ordinary 26 • Jørgen burchardt acidification culture. Maturation out the mass without major smear was 1 to –3 months. In 2016, it was formation. Two months of storage stated to be matured with rind salt- give it a sharp, spicy taste and smell. ing, and its shelf life was reduced to In 1952 it was renamed Esrom but three weeks. does not appear in a list from 2016. Taffelosten (table cheese) was a Blue mold cheese from low-tem- smaller version of Steppeosten in a perature pasteurized cow’s milk block of 1–2 kg. These were made is produced in two sizes, with the with 30–45% fat and stored for smallest of 2½–3 kg being the most 2½–3 months. In 1952 it was re- common. It has a high cylindrical at named . In the description, it approximately 9 cm and a diameter was given the term “semi-solid” with of approximately 18 cm, and it’s a greater weight of 2–3 kg. Then it sold after 2–3 months of storage. could also be made in a cheese with The largest cheeses, 8–10 kg, look 20% fat. It had round holes of 3–7 more like Gorgonzola. Both cheeses mm in diameter. Again, the matura- contain at least 50% fat and have a tion of the cheese was reduced to a maturation time of 4–5 months. Pu- minimum of three weeks. rified cultures of lactic acid - bacte ria and of blue-green mold species Penicillium roqueforti and Penicil- Semi-solid lium gorgonzola are used. In 1952, Tilsit cheese is a low cylindrical dipped the blue mold cheese was divided cheese of 1–6 kg with 20–45% fat. into two types. Danablue became the It is relatively soft with an irregu- name for the smallest cheese, where lar structure and a pleasant but so- the mold species Penicillium roque- mewhat sharp taste. In 1952 it was forti gave it its slightly sharp but renamed Havarti, and weight was pure taste. The cheese is not men- set at 4–5 kg. Now the cheese can tioned in the 2016 report. However, also be made in a square shape of it is the other cheese, Mycella, which approximately 30 x 12 x 12 cm. In is produced by Penicillium gorgon- 2016, the minimum fat content was zola. Its curd is slightly more yellow- raised to 30%. ish than Danablue’s, and the taste is Port de Salut is a soft-pressed milder and has a slightly more fat- cheese of 45% fat in a flat and rect- like consistency. It is made from angular shape of ½ and 1 kg. It’s raw or low-temperature pasteurized a cheese with irregular holes; it is milk. In 2016, it was allowed to have lightly salted and matures through- a fat content down to 30%. A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 27

Judges at a cheese exhibition in 2004 in the process of assessing the submitted cheeses. While exhibitions 100-150 years earlier often concerned quality, cheeses today are of a such high quality that the assessment is usually only about taste nuances. Photo Jørgen Burchardt, The Green Museum.

Soft boxes. This cheese also does not Camembert, like Brie, is a white mold have a Danish name. cheese, which is always produced with at least 45% fat and preferably with low-temperature pasteurized Processed cheese is pasteurized cheese, milk. It has a pleasant, mushro- where various are om-like flavor and aroma and is melted while adding an emulsifier packed in 350 g of round and 175 g and heated to 70–90°C. A special semicircular chip boxes. The cheese type is “petit Gruyere”, which is did not get a Danish name in 1952. packaged as small triangular chees- Since 2016, it has been allowed to es packed six to a round box. The be produced from 30% fat content. processed cheese also did not get Brie is made in round, flat 1 kg a Danish name. The regulation in cheeses or in the form of sections 2016 briefly mentions a smooth and of 250 g and 165 g packed in chip glossy surface, and the color should 28 • Jørgen burchardt

Every morning at a dairy, one day’s production is being ra- ted. Here are cheeses from Grenå Dairy’s production of seven cheese vessels a few months earlier. Most batches go to the packing center as prime goods, but some are judged to be second. Some are so poor that they are sold for further processing. Photo Jørgen Burchardt, The Green Museum.

be uniformly whitish to yellowish. population’s consumption of che- The consistency should be cohe- ese during WW2. Due to the halting sive, tough and elastic, not short of imports, there was a shortage of and crisp. If the processed cheese grain. Therefore, pig production is to be marketed with a recognized decreased, and quantities of skim- cheese name, it must contain at least med milk were instead used for che- 75% of that cheese. ese production. As there was also The 2016 report included de- a shortage of meat and cold cuts, scriptions of more than 12 cheeses cheese could serve as a substitute. with Danish names. The immature Where consumption since World soft cheeses (fresh cheeses) or cot- War I had risen slowly from around tage cheese had larger or smaller 15,000 tons to 20,000 tons in the cheese grains; should late 1930s, it reached 38,000 tons in have at least 60% fat; quark should 1945. have a homogeneous curd, and Until the late 1950s, cheese was quark with cumin can also be la- sold in small dairy shops and spe- belled Knapost. It was also stated in cialty cheese shops. Dairy shops dis- the report that Danish Feta and oth- appeared rapidly as their exclusive er cheeses should not be sold under sale of milk came to an end. At the these names in Denmark. same time, much of the sales from cheese shops went to other traders. Large-scale operations and Therefore, their number declined fewer manufacturers rapidly from 600 stores at the peak There was a sharp increase in the in the early 1950s to 200 in 1991. A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 29

An inventory in 1980 showed that port other kinds of cheese, while 33% of all cheese was sold by mer- 45 wholesalers were authorized. chants, 6% by supermarkets, and Exports of cheese during the war 3% by butchers; cheese traders had had been regulated for supply to the to settle for 14% from shops and population, but after the war, the 4% from sales from wagons. A total state continued its involvement in of 87% of all households bought the area. After 1950, exports were cheese once a week, but sales coordinated through cooperatives’ dropped to to 30% of households export committees, along with pri- when there were no offers. Super- vate exporters, in a system of mini- markets also had the best hold on mum prices and a licensing scheme. soft cheeses, while the proportion Several countries tightly controlled of sales of solid cheeses was higher their imports of goods at a time of in the cheese traders. From around lack of currency. This meant that 1970 on, sales of cutting cheese it was an advantage to enter into went down somewhat presumably agreements with, for example, En- because cheese was no longer used gland, to ensure a price guarantee. so much in packed lunches. For many years, the dairies had The harsh restrictions of war- sold their cheeses to private cheese time were gradually abolished, but wholesalers, which in fact acted only the state’s involvement in the cheese as a kind of agent for the dairy. The industry continued in peacetime. In dairy owners were discontent, and 1947, the state-controlled cheese in 1946, some Jutland dairies started labelling scheme for butter was ex- Danske Ostemejerier’s joint sale and panded to include cheese for export. cheese export. To be able to export, a dairy had to From the mid-1960s, the dairy deliver cheeses for quality evalu- sector underwent a major transition. ation and achieve a certain result. The introduction of milk tankers At the same time, a number of re- meant that small local dairies lost quirements were made for the dair- their importance. Large-scale pro- ies' equipment and for the layout of duction could now be established cheese and warehouses, as well the at fewer large central dairies. At the wholesale warehouses being includ- same time, organizational central- ed in the provisions. In the first year, ization took place. When Mejeris- 18 dairies were granted the right to elskab Danmark took over coop- export Roquefort cheese and 137 eratives and bought private dairies dairies were granted the right to ex- in the 1980s, the company was di- 30 • Jørgen burchardt vided into four production areas; Cheese”, while another thought it two were for cheese, one for white should be “Danableu”. mold cheese, and the other for solid Dairy nations found it unfor- cheese. tunate to leave behind the cheese names that had established them, Cheeses and their names where the names had changed to Names are appropriate for trading. mean cheese produced in a certain A name must give customers’ expe- way and not cheese made in a partic- ctations of a particular product. As ular place. Again in 1925, the Minis- cheese began to become more than try of Agriculture was called called a local commodity, the geographi- upon to change the names, but again cal birthplace of the cheese type without the support of the dairies. was used for naming. Above, Swiss Therefore, the dairy industry called cheese, cheddar and many more are on the Ministry of Agriculture to mentioned. refrain from attending the interna- When Danish dairies began to tional conference at Rome in 1930, export cheeses in the early 1900s, although the International Dairy these geographical names were Congress in 1926 had adopted a used. You could easily put “Danish” desire for internationally designated in front of the geographical name. cheese names. It was not always easy to use However, as early as 1935, the the names of foreign sites. For ex- State Experimental Dairy and the ample, France complained through Dairy Office drew up a first draft diplomatic channels in 1921, criti- of system names, and in 1937, a cizing Danish exporters for selling Danish name for “Danish Swiss” “Roquefort Danois” on the Ger- became of particular interest. In man market. The Ministry of Agri- spite of the WW2, the Ministry of culture, therefore, called on Danish Agriculture was authorized in 1942 dairies “to take seriously into con- to fix cheese denominations after sideration whether or not to incor- negotiations with the Danish Dairy porate the Danish cheese under Association’ Joint Organization Danish names”. (hereinafter referred to as the Dairy In 1922, a competition for a Association). The motive was that Danish name for Roquefort cheese no cheese should be negotiated with was arranged, and many suggestions names whose contents do not cor- were received. A Danish exporter in respond to the terms that were stat- London suggested “Danish Blue ed in the statutory order. In 1950, Diagramtitel 200 A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 31

180

160

140

120

100

80

60

40

20

0 1946 1948 1950 1952 1954 1956 1958 1960 1962 1964 1966 1968 1970 1972 1974 1976 1978 1980 1982 1984 1986 1988 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008

Samsø Esrom Maribo Fynbo Danbo Elbo Havarti Danablue Flødeost Mozzarella

The Danish production of cheese 1946-2008 The figure shows the most important types of cheese, 1.000 tons/year. The development in taste is shown. Samsø and Danbo have allways been popular. Some of the most important cheeses in 1946, Maribo and Fynbo, dissapeared in the 1990’th. Instead Ha- varti together with Danablu became important. In the 1970’th came Cream Cheese (Flødeost) and Mozzarella in production. The figure do not show the production of Feta. The statistics for Cream Cheese and Mozaarella was discontinued from 1999. 32 • Jørgen burchardt

Denmark had become the world's tion was made concrete in 1951 at third-largest exporter of cheese, so a conference in Stresa, Italy, where there were major economic interests Denmark, in cooperation with Nor- at stake. way and Sweden, softened it. Desig- In order to gain the public’s in- nations such as Roquefort, Gorgon- terest, in 1948–1949, a proposal zola, Pecorino and Parmesan were competition was organized in con- reserved for local producers, while nection with a country dairy exhibi- foreign-type designations for chees- tion in Copenhagen with approxi- es made in Denmark should have mately 1,200 suggestions. the addition “Danish” in front. The naming would take place ac- A working committee was es- cording to a general system, where tablished and in 1951 suggested all cheeses with a Danish distinc- the Danish names, which were ap- tive character would have a Dan- proved by the dairy industry’s or- ish name. Where it was desired to ganizations and by the Ministry of produce cheese with the greatest Agriculture a few days later. The possible resemblance to original proposed names could be included types, the previous names should be on the provisional lists of the Stresa retained but have a “Danish” con- convention before the expiry of the notation. At the same time, only a deadline. limited number of main groups was The proposal was for place wanted, which should be according names but also for the usual term to uniformity, e.g. whipped, knead- for a locale’s residents, for example, ed, firm or soft cheeses. In addition, Molbo, Tybo, and Fynbo. The most it was sought, according to interna- common Danish cheese was a fat or tional tradition, to use Danish place half-fat square cheese, and because names for places with a certain re- of its widespread distribution, it was lationship to the cheese production. called Danbo. Finally, the names should be short Some of the new names were and easily pronounced so that they also included in a public naming could be used directly in the main competition. One winner received languages. DKK 250 for his proposal for the At a conference in Amsterdam in name Havarti in memory of Hanne 1950, a proposal for the internation- Nielsen’s efforts at Havarthigården. al protection of names was adopted. The money would go to his wife, The proposal was accepted by the “for a woman's efforts should fall to Danish representatives. The adop- a woman”. A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 33

The marketing of the new Around 1830 found foreign names took place with military pre- cheeses way to Denmark - large cision and preparation. The adver- hard cheese from Switzerland and tising agency Harlang & Toksvig the Netherlands, supplemented with was responsible for the creative English, while Italy and France de- work, while the Dairy Association livered soft cheeses. did the organizational work. In the Danish dairies mimicked, and marketing, they made sure to send around 1915 the quality matched signage to all hotels and restaurants the Danish demand, including more with pictures and names. fatty cheeses, and the imports were When the authorized list of reduced. The foreign types were cheese names was published, the adapted, and new developed as new names should be used every- Danablu of cow's milk - a copy of where. It was especially difficult for sheep's milk cheese. Modern pro- the large restaurants in ferry cross- cessed cheese came into being. ings, where the Great Belt crossing Government regulation became was friendly but certainly encour- permanent from 1921, among oth- aged to change its dinner menu from er things to reduce the number of Dutch cheese to . cheese types; Quality control was The Ministry of Foreign Af- extended to all cheeses in 1947. fairs was involved in several areas. In 1952 Danish names were intro- The press attaché in Bonn was ap- duced for only 11 cheeses (in 1974 proached to make the new names 12). known in the important country of In 1928, Gouda was dominant Germany, and the diplomatic chan- along with Steppeost (Danbo) and nels sent messages to foreign insti- Danablu. After World War II, Dan- tutions for customs clearance. bo and Tilsit (Havarti) dominated, while Gouda almost disappeared. In Conclusion the 1970s, several soft cheeses came, Cheese has for millennia been a including white mold and cream Danish food. The farmers' self-suf- cheese. Feta was a special cheese ficiency provided fresh cheese and for foreign markets with a transition sometimes an older stored skimmed half of the production. milk cheese. Danish cheeses were for many The main product was butter de- years copies of foreign cheeses., but spite large of farms dairy and mech- over the years a specific Danish ap- anized common dairies. proach was achieved. 34 • Jørgen burchardt

References 8–11. Andersen, L. 1967: Bliv rask og glad: Hvor- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1983: Nye specia- dan omlægning af uheldige vaner kan bedre loste. Mælkeritidende, 96 (24) 6,16–618. helbred og humør. København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1985: Definition Andersen, M. 1972: Foreningen af jydske af ost. Mælkeritidende, 98 (3), 52–54. Landboforeninger igennem 100 år. Aar- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1986: Anmeldelse huus. af osteudstillingen. Mælkeritidende, 99 Appel, H. 1918: Dansk Mejeribrug gen- (23), 531–532. nem 60 Aar: En Tidsbetragtning. I: G. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1992: Ostens kul- Ellbrecht (ed.) Danske mejerier: Haand- turhistorie. Mælkeritidende, 105 (13/14), bog for mejeribruget I Danmark. Bind 4, 404–410. 253–372. København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1993: Osten fra Bach, M. 2000: Der er rejer i rejeosten! Thy - sin historie værd. Mælkeritidende, Om dokumentationen af Ostefa- 106 (21), 521–526. brikken Buko. Kulturhistoriske Studier, Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1994: Den fynske 63–72. historie bag 6 danske oste. Mælkeriti- Bach, M. 2002: Tog, ost og telefoner: Men dende, 107 (22), 528–532. mest en historie om Buko. Kulturhistori- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1997: Osten og ske Studier, 9–27. vikingerne. Mælkeritidende, 110 (17), Bech, S. C. (ed.) 1979-1984: Dansk biogra- 434–435. fisk leksikon (3rd ed.) København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1999: BGB/BOB Begtrup, G. 1803-1812: Beskrivelse over ostene: Toppen af europæiske oste. Agerdyrkningens tilstand i Danmark: Sjæl- Mælkeritidende, 112 (8), 206–210. land og Møen (Vol. 2). København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 1999: De blå oste. Bjørn, C. 1979-1984: T.R. Segelcke. I: S. Mælkeritidende, 112 (3), 52–57. C. Bech (ed.) Dansk biografisk leksikon Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2000: Ostenav- (3rd ed.) København. nenes historie. Mælkeritidende, 113 (4), Bjørn, C. (ed.) 1988: Det danske landbrugs 125–129. historie: II 1536-1810. Odense. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2001: Dansk oste- Bjørn, C. (ed.) 1988: Det danske landbrugs produktion I historisk belysning: Oste historie: I oldtid og middelalder. Odense. - markeder - forbrugere. Mælkeritiden- Bjørn, C. (ed.) 1988: Det danske landbrugs de, 114 (18), 496–497. historie: III 1810-1914. Odense. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2005: Betydende Boas, J. E. V., & Oppermann, A. 1908: hollandske ostesorter. Mælkeritidende, Den kongelige Veterinær og Landbo Høj- 118 (6), 174–176. skole, 1858 1908. Festskrift ved Højsko- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2006: Landsmeje- lens Halvtredsindstyveaars Jubilæum. Kø- riudstillingen: Før & nu. Mælkeritiden- benhavn. de, 119 (19), 432–436. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2006a: En glor- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2007: Storytælling værdig historie, II: Dansk osteproduk- om ost. Mælkeritidende, 120 (25/26), tion 1750-1950. Mælkeritidende, 119 (2), 628–631. 32–35. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2008: Ostekitmod- Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2006a: En glor- ningens historie. Mælkeritidende, 121 værdig historie, I: Dansk osteproduk- (16), 364–366. tion 1750-1950. Mælkeritidende, 119 (1), A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 35

Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2008: Søndags- Degn, O. 1969: Flids og vindskibeligheds hvile-Mejerierne. Mælkeritidende, 121 belønning. I: V. Dybdahl (ed.) For fæd- (25/26), 624–625. relandets bedre flor: Bidrag til Det Kgl. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2009: Elbo. Mælke- Danske Landhusholdningsselskabs historie ritidende, 122 (25/26), 556–557. 1769-1969, 192–254. Det Kgl. Danske Landhusholdningsselskab. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2009: Fynbo - en sjælden men elsket ost. Mælkeritidende, Dessau, D. 1870: Fortegnelse over Pro- 122 (9), 220–221. dukter: I: D. Dessau (ed.) Den ellevte danske Landmandsforsamling I Kjøbenhavn Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2009: Maribo: En 6te-10de Juli 1869: Beretning om møderne, sjælden, men elsket ost. Mælkeritidende, forhandlingerne og foredragene, dyrskuet og 122 (3), 50–51. øvrige udstillinger. København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2009: Samsø: Dessau, D. (ed.) 1870: Den ellevte danske Ostens "grandfather". Mælkeritidende, Landmandsforsamling i Kjøbenhavn 6te- 122 (16), 346–347. 10de Juli 1869: Beretning om møderne, Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2010: Dansk forhandlingerne og foredragene, dyrskuet og cheddar. Mælkeritidende, 123 (4), 10–11. øvrige udstillinger. København. Buch Kristensen, J. M. 2010: Thybo & Dinesen, T. B. 1999: Ostesalget - set med Tybo: To vidt forskellige oste. Mælke- en forhandlers øjne. Mælkeritidende, ritidende, 123 (13/14), 12–14. 112 (8), 204–205. Buchreitz, A. 1963: Landboforeningen for Drejer, A. A. 1925-33: Mejeribruget. I: Ribe Kjøbstad og Omegn: Landboforenin- K. Hansen (ed.) Det danske Landbrugs gen af 1887 for Ribe By og Omegn. Ribe Historie: Bygninger, Mejeri, Redskaber, og Omegns Landboforening. 1863- 1963. 99–419. Esbjerg. Duncan. 1863: Anviisning til at produce- Burchardt, J. 2017: Gods på vej: Vejtrans- re godt og meget Smør, tilvirke forskjellige portens Danmarkshistorie: forsyningskæder, Sorter Ost, og overhovedet at udbringe det teknologi, regulering. Ringe. størst mulige og bedste Udbytte af Meieriet Bøggild, B. 1888: Mælkeribruget i Dan- paa vore almindelige Bøndergaarde og mindre mark 1887. Tidsskrift for Landøkonomi, Landeiendomme: En nyttig Haandbog for 67–110. Huusmødre og vordende Meiersker. Oden- Bøggild, B. 1916: Mælkeribruget i Danmark: se. Fjerde udgave. København. Duncan, Hoffmann-Bang, & Cajander, Z. Bøggild, B. 1909: Mælkeribruget i Dan- 1871: Ostberedning: Anvisning att i större mark 1908. Tidsskrift for Landøkonomi, och mindre qvantiteter bereda de flesta i han- 193–208. deln förekommande ostsorter, såsam Vanlig mejeriost, Chesterost, Cheddarost, Dunlop- Bøggild, B. 1896: Mælkeribruget 1-2. Kø- ost. Stockholm. benhavn. Duurloo, E. 1923 (2017): Huset paa Pynten: Christensen, A., & Nielsen, S. 1979-1984: København. G. v. Ellbrecht. I: S. C. Bech (ed.) Dansk biografisk leksikon (3rd ed.) Kø- Dybdahl, V. (ed.) 1969: For fædrelandets bed- benhavn. re flor: Bidrag til Det Kgl. Danske Land- husholdningsselskabs historie 1769-1969: Christensen, W. 1926: Rougsø-Sønderhald Det Kgl. Danske Landhusholdnings- Herreders Landboforening 1876 - 1926. selskab. Allingaabro. Ellbrecht, G. 1915: Danske mejerier: Ha- 36 • Jørgen burchardt

andbog for mejeribruget i Danmark. Bind 1. danske provindsers nærværende tilstand i Ellbrecht, G. 1916: Danske mejerier: Ha- oeconomisk henseende: 16. stykke. Køben- andbog for mejeribruget i Danmark. Bind 2. havn. Ellbrecht, G. 1917: Danske mejerier: Ha- Holmgaard, R. (ed.) 2015: Ostekultur for andbog for mejeribruget i Danmark. Bind 3. madglade: Lækre opskrifter og inspiration samt viden om ostesmag og ostekultur: Me- Ellbrecht, G. (ed.) 1918: Danske mejerier: jeriforeningen. Haandbog for mejeribruget i Danmark. Bind 4. Hyldtoft, O. (ed.) 2009: Kost og spisevaner i 1800-tallet. København. Ellbrecht, G. 1931: Dansk mejeristat: Bind 1. Hyldtoft, O. 2012: Mad, drikke og tobak: Forbrugsmønstre, kultur og diskurser: Ellekilde, H. 1942: Sommer i by. I: Syd- 1800-35. København. sjælland. Historisk Samfund for Præstø Amt, 121–212. Hyldtoft, O. 2016: Mad, drikke og tobak: Forbrugsmønstre, kultur og diskurser: Fox, P. F. (ed.) 2004: Cheese: Chemistry, 1835-80. København. Physics and Microbiology: Volume 2. Major Cheese Groups (3rd ed.) Amsterdam. Højrup, O. 1991: Landbokvinden: Rok og kærne: grovbrød og vadmel. København. Frandsen, K.-E. 1988: 1536-ca. 1720. I: C. Bjørn (ed.) Det danske landbrugs histo- Hørlyck, N. 1909: Vor Osteproduktion- rie: II 1536-1810, 11–210. Odense. og Eksport. Tidsskrift for Landøkonomi, 265–288. Fødevarestyrelsen. 2016: Bekendtgørelse om mælkeprodukter m.v.: BEK nr. 1360 af Indenrigsministeriet (udg.) 1919: Overor- 24/11 2016. København. dentlige Foranstaltninger: Samling af gæl- dende Bekendtgørelser: med Kommentarer Grue-Sørensen, E. 1970: DOFO's gene- og Henvisninger (Fortryk nr. 7). Køben- ralforsamling. Ostehandleren. (1), 43-51. havn. Hansen, A. P. 1927: Maskinel Ostelav- International Food Contest. 2018: Dom- ning. Mælkeritidende, 40, 1063–1069. mervejledning for ost. Hansen, H. E. 1991: Ostehandlerne har Jensen, H. M. 1948: Mejeribruget i Dan- 75 års jubilæum. Mælkeritidende, 104 mark 1947. Tidsskrift for Landøkonomi, (5), 106–109. 365–386. Hansen, K. (ed.) 1925-33: Det danske Jensen, H. M. 1974: Ost: Bidrag til den dan- Landbrugs Historie: Bygninger, Mejeri, ske osteproduktions og de danske ostesorters Redskaber. historie: De Danske Mejeriers Fællesor- Hansen, K. (ed.) 1925: Det danske Land- ganisation. brugs Historie: Første Bind. Jensen, K. W. 1950: Osteproduktion og Hansen, R. 1978: BUKO: Smelte- og ostehandel. Mælkeritidende, 63, 19–22. flødeostfabrikken. Nordeuropæisk Meje- Jensen, O. 1995: De hidtidige Erfaringer ri-Tidsskrift, 44 (2), 27–36. angaaende Ostens Modningsproces og Haugaard, J. K., & Foreningen af Jydske disses Betydning for danske Mælkeri- Landboforeninger. 1926: Foreningen af brug. De hidtidige erfaringer angåen- jydske Landboforeninger: 1872-1922: For- de ostens modningsproces og disses eningen af jydske Landboforeninger. betydning for det danske mejeribrug Hofman, J. A. 1843: Odense amt: Beskrevet anno 1995. Dansk Kemi, 76 (6/7), 12– efter opfordring af det Kgl. Landhuushold- 19. nings-selskab. Bidrag til kundskab om de Jeppesen, P., 1962: Fra de svundne dage. A 150-YEAR SHIFT IN CHEESE TASTES • 37

Odense. ogy: Volume 2. Major Cheese Groups (3rd Jonsson, P. 2018: En Lærebog i Smør- og ed.), 1–22. Amsterdam. Ostelavning fra 1780. Tidsskrift for Lan- Mejeriforeningen. 2009: Mejeristatistik døkonomi, 89(0). 2008. Århus. Jürgens, A. 2012: Zur schleswig-holsteinischen Mortensen, H. 2006: Mere mælk finder handelsgeschichte des 16. und 17. jahrhund- vej til ostekarrene. Mælkeritidende, 119 erts. Bremen. (1), 12–14. Kloster, H. 1980: Mælkestrømmens historie Nielsen, C. P. 1960: Kræver moderne og kvalitet. København. distribution og den forøgede kunde- Kristiansen, K. 1988: Oldtid. I: C. Bjørn kreds nye ostetyper? Mælkeritidende, 73, (ed.) Det danske landbrugs historie:: oldtid 787–793. og middelalder. 11–204. Odense. Nielsen, S. A. 1970: Dansk dessertost af Leegaard, J. 1878: Mejeriberetning fra Jyl- format. Ostehandleren. (12), 645-647. land. Landøkonomisk Tidsskrift, 83–95. Nn. 1982: Den fire købmand er den stør- Lemvigh, O. 1800: Underretning om Thybo- ste forhandler af ost. Frit Købmandskab. eostens Tilberedelse samt Aarsagen til dens (1), 25–26. særdeles Smag, med tilføiet Betænkning, O'Connor, B. 2004: The law of geographical hvorvidt samme Smag kan meddeles andre indications: Cameron May. Oste, eller ikke: Et Priiskrivt, som vandt Olavius, O. 1780: Fáeinar skiringar greinir det Kongl. Landhuusholdnings selskabs um smiör og ostabúnad á Islandi. Køben- første Sølvmedaille i Aaret 1791. Køben- havn. havn. Orla-Jensen. 1919: Roquefortost. Mælkeri- Linde, C. F. 1859: Beretning om den syvende tidende, 32, 277-280, 380. danske Landmands-Forsamling: Afholdt i Orla-Jensen, O. S. 1920: Fælleslagre for Haderslev fra den 28. Juni til den 2. Juli Ost. Mælkeritidende, 33, 89–91. 1859. Haderslev. Orla-Jensen, O. S. 1921: De hidtidige Lindskov, M., & Roed, G. 1944: Ost. Ha- Erfaringer angaaende Ostens Mod- andbog for Ostehandlere. København. ningsproces og disses Betydning for Lund, F. 1937: Smørkærning og Ostelav- det danske Mælkeribrug. Tidsskrift for ning omkring 1870, især i Turup Sogn. Landøkonomi, 101–116. Fynsk Hjemstavn. Orla-Jensen, O. S. 1921: Ostelov og Oste- Magnus, O. 1555: Historia de gentibus lavning. Mælkeritidende, 34, 623–625. Septentrionalibus, earumque diversis stati- Orla-Jensen, S. 1925: Ost. Mælkeritidende, bus, conditionibus, moribus, etc. Romæ: J. 38, 225–231. M. de Viottis. Orla-Jensen, S. 1927: Skulde Tiden be- Martens, J. D., & Dalgas, C. 1854: Qvægav- gynde at blive moden for moden Ost? len og Meieridriften paa Hollænderigaardene Mælkeritidende, 40, 775. i det Holsteenske og Slesvigske (Efter an- den Originaludgave). Overgaard, S. 1948: Statens Forsøgsmejeri 1923-1948. København. Matthiessen, C. M. A. 1890: Die Käsepro- duktion i Eiderstedt im 17. Jahrhundert. Pedersen, E. H. (ed.) 1988: Det danske landbrugs historie: IV 1914-1988. Oden- McSweeney, P., & Ottogalli, G.: Fox, se: Landbohistorisk Selskab. P.F. 2004: Diversity of Cheese Vari- eties: An Overview. I: P. F. Fox (ed.) Pedersen, E. H. 1996: Havarthigaarden: En Cheese: Chemistry, Physics and Microbiol- historisk montage i tekst og billeder. Holte. 38 • Jørgen burchardt

Porsmose, E. 1988: Middelalder. I: C. Thaarup, S. 1868: Kogebog: for By- og Land- Bjørn (ed.) Det danske landbrugs historie: huusholdninger, eller Anviisning til at koge, I oldtid og middelalder 205–417. Odense. stege, slagte … Med et Tillæg om Brugen Poulsen, G. 2006: Erindringer fra Bor- af Varmeholdere ved Kogning af Mad efter ding. Hardsyssels Årbog, 13–20. Docent Fjords Methode. København. Pouriau, A. F., Valentiner, H., & Lar- Troels-Lund. 1929: Dagligt Liv i Norden: pent, V. 1876: Mælkeriet: En Vejledning i det sekstende Aarhundrede. 1. Land og til Mælkens rette Behandling og Smørrets Folk; Bønder- og Købstadboliger ; Herre- Tilberedning, tilligemed en Anvisning til at gaarde og Slotte ; Klædedragt (5. Udgave). tilberede de bekjendste franske og fremmede København. Oste. København. Vedholm, H., & MD Foods. 1995: Kernen Producentforeningen af Danablue og i mejeribruget: MD Foods fra 1970-1995. andre Specialoste. 1984: Producentfor- Viby J. eningen af Danablue og andre Specialoste Weimer, B. C. 2007: Improving the flavour of gennem 50 år, 1934-1984. Danmark: cheese. Woodhead Publishing in food science, Producentforeningen. technology, and nutrition. Cambridge. Qvist, K. B. 1989: Mejeriteknologi Ostepro- Westermann, T., & Goldschmidt, H. duktionens udvikling samt ostebekendtgørel- 1895: Landmandsbogen: Raadgiver for den sen. København. danske Landmand og hans Husstand ved Schaltz, U. 2002: En bid af dagligdagen den daglige Gerning. Bind 2. København. på ostefabrikken Buko. Kulturhistoriske Wøllekær, J. 2014: Mælkens skole: Mejeri- Studier, 29–50. uddannelse gennem 125 år: 1889-2014. Schroll, G. 1878: Mejeriberetning fra Odense. Fyen. Landøkonomisk Tidsskrift, 61–82. Scott, R. 1998: Cheesemaking practice (3rd ed.) Gaithersburg, Md.: Aspen. Internet references Solheim, L., & Sønksen, Henrik, Bisgård, Biisgaard, P. 2017: En ost er jo meget mere Mogens. 2015: Dansk ostehåndværk. end bare 'mild' eller 'stærk'. https:// [S.l.]: Viventes. mejeri.dk/nyheder/indsigt/2017/en- Statistiske Departement. 1915: Mejeribru- ost-er-jo-meget-mere-end-bare-mild- get i Danmark i 1914. Statistiske Med- eller-staerk- (5. marts 2019). delelser: 4. række, 49. bind, første hæfte. København. Steensberg, A. (ed.) 1964: Dagligliv i Dan- mark i det nittende og tyvende århundrede. København. Steensberg, A. (ed.) 1969: Dagligliv i Dan- mark i det syttende og attende århundrede. København. Stoklund, B. 2009: Kost og spisevaner på 1800-tallets Læsø. I: O. Hyldtoft (ed.) Kost og spisevaner i 1800-tallet 145–182. København. Svedstrup, A. 1923: Erik Gudmand. Kø- benhavn.