EXPLORER’S GUIDE PERUVIAN MUSIC

A shaman plays a flute alongside Amazonian Peru’s Boiling River.

Facing the 1 2 3 4 Music in Hidden Workshop Andes Anthems Dinner and a Show Electric Inca Inside a storefront sign- Traditional Andean What originated as leftist, Follow up the show with Cusco posted simply “Luthier,” music isn’t something you anti-dictatorship music drinks and dancing at this expertly made Andean stumble across—it has to in the 1960s and ’70s has local staple for Andean While living among the instruments lie scattered be sought out. Wissler sug- morphed into Andean rock. Ukukus has live shows Q’eros, an indigenous around their maker. Sabino gests contacting Santos folk, supported by guitar, daily, while Sundays are Andean group in south- Huamán, a third-generation Machacca Apaza, a Q’ero, charango, various flutes, headlined by Amaru Puma east Peru, Holly Wissler stringed instrument crafts- to sit in on an offering to and drums. “People love it,” Kuntur, a band named for was immersed in their man, will demonstrate how apus (mountain gods) and says Wissler of the haunt- the three cosmic figures native music. Now based to play each charango, Pachamama (Mother Earth) ing melodies, which are of the Inca Empire (snake, in Cusco, the ethno- bandurria, guitar, and at his family’s home, 20 best enjoyed over dinner at puma, and condor). Here, musicologist and Nat quena flute. Ask to see his minutes outside Cusco. any number of restaurants folk music goes electric, Geo Expeditions expert workshop upstairs, says Request music up front so in Cusco, including the with hand pipes and quena outlines where to find Wissler—and even if you that his mother is around just opened Ayasqa, which flutes getting the rock- the best local beats. don’t purchase anything, to sing as his father plays overlooks Plaza de Armas and-roll treatment while A RUZO By Hannah Lott-Schwartz make sure to tip Huamán the pinkuyllu after leading and serves highly lauded singers alternate between ĺ

for his time. the hour-long ceremony. Peruvian comfort food. Quechua and Spanish. SOF

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