Where Best to Dine? ( THIS LIST of RESTAURANTS ALSO INCLUDES MOORING TIPS )
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Where best to dine? ( THIS LIST OF RESTAURANTS ALSO INCLUDES MOORING TIPS ) n order to make it easier for you to set course barbecue before you have agreed on what you Ifor the best seaside restaurants, we list those will eat. places where we have repeatedly found good D The ambience of a place must have a “charac- food, in some, for the over twenty years. As ter” of its own, something that cannot be upset by tastes differ and in order to make it less confus- a scruffy tablecloth thrown over the remains of ing, we have decided that the reasons behind this some old window shutters as a substitute for a selection boil down to the following tenets: proper table (tablecloths are not regarded as D Restaurants (konoba) must not be further away necessary, anyway). than a 15-minute walk, so some restaurants on D A restaurant has to be run by a family. the wrong side of this limit have not made it onto D The cooking should be done by its either the our list no matter how good they otherwise are. patron or his wife. D Delectable, or shall we say outstanding, D The patron is expected to be a bit of an cuisine is the sine qua non, and it must be based eccentric, that is someone with bags of character. on traditional, local grandma’s recipes, while D You are supposed to have a view of what is there is special kudos for culinary invention in cooking, or at least you are welcome to take a preparing new creations based on these princi- peek through the kitchen door. ples. D Modest prices. Although it goes without saying D Ideally, everything that goes into the pot that any food buff would not even contemplate should have been grown in one’s own garden, or complaining after a good meal, he/she may at least the ingredients must be absolutely fresh, perhaps regret spending too much a day later. and they must not head for the pot, oven or the D A desire to sail to this restaurant again. The names of the restaurants where crews of PBZ Leas- ing Charter are entitled to a 10 % discount are printed in red. FROM SPLIT TonËi (Vlaka) TO DUBROVNIK HVAR The town of Hvar - harbour SPLIT Luvij, 50 metres west of the cathedral bell Kibela, near the cathedral of tower, Eta i Vjekoslav BracanoviÊ. St. Dujma, Ivan ©koje. Excellent local wines, with a reputation en- The best lunches are eaten dorsed by a number of national and interna- here. Cooking stops at 4 p.m. tional awards. Outstandingly good dishes come True Split atmosphere. Luviji from the traditional bread oven (local fish)! PBZ Leasing Charter 19 Untitled-2 19 28.9.00, 14.23 Bacchus, in the town are a local variety of tuna-like fish cooked in wine, square, Mate JeliËiÊ. fish (gof) with capers, fish with chick peas. The pa- Simple lunch meals. Every tron has a special way with barbecued fish. day, a different dish (Dal- Vatrica, Petar CvitanoviÊ. matian-style meat in Below the bell tower of the Church of St.Ciprijan sauce!). The regulars in- and Justine. A seafront terrace overlooking the en- clude locals too. tire harbour. In addition to other delicious dishes, one should also taste the local variety of stew-like The cove of Milina, a mile pasta and bean stew. and a half south-east of Milina Hvar’s harbour The cove of StonËica Milna, Milan »avËiÊ. StonËica, the Lincir Both the patron and his wife cook all kinds of sea- brothers. food plus lamb, game, artichokes, snails in local herbs The brothers produce and fish stew. vegetables, fruits, wine Kamanjo, Goran Albini-Kamanjo. and olive oil, all of which Homemade pasta with all kinds of seafood, includ- is used in preparing their ing crustaceans and fish. Patron Kamanjo and his meals. They also have a wife Nada prepare all of StonËica goat farm and barbecue this. She also picks local local lamb. A member of their family is the island’s herbs, which are used as a most famous fisherman when it comes to snappers. basis for some ten kinds of Anchorage in front of the restaurant in the cove. liqueurs. There is a shaded area on a sandy beach at the end Stay anchored in the bay of the cove. of Milna. THE ISLANDS OF The cove of Mala Travna PAKLENI OTOCI Mola Trovna, Senko Karuza. Palmiæana TonËi A totally ecological phi- Palmiæana, Dagmar Meneghello. losophy in preparing food One of the few oldest Adriatic restaurants catering and excellent local wine for yachties. The marina is five minutes away from of the Plavac variety. The the restaurant and you can also anchor in the cove dried fish and fish stews of VinogradiaπÊe on the other side of this tiny is- prepared by this chef- land. cum-poet are among the The Cove of Vlaka Adriatic’s most exquisite TonËi, TonËi MatijeviÊ culinary experiences. Tie Everything you eat here has been grown in the pa- up to one of the buoys. Mola Trovna trons’ own field outside the restaurant. The patron LASTOVO is also a fisherman. Our suggestion is to order bar- The cove of Zaklopatica becued fish (trlje) and baked potatoes or a fish stew. Triton, Naa i TonËi Jurica Gango. Anchorage in the cove. The patron is a fan of this island with a vast knowl- VIS edge of its history and marine life. It is this attitude Vis’ harbour ∑ Kut and his culinary creativity that shape his cuisine. His Pojoda, Zoran BrajËiÊ. favourite trademark is his use of capers. He also The most inventive chef serves excellent cuttlefish risotto. The restaurant has in the Adriatic, who its own pier with power and water points. comes up with two or MLJET three new recipes every Pomena year. Particularly delicious Pojoda Nine, Pero Matana. 20 PBZ Leasing Charter Untitled-2 20 28.9.00, 14.23 The chef is a professional who inherited this place Restaurant within the from his father. A rare combination of all seafood namesake sailing club. All and Mljet game (boar). A pier adjacent to the res- kinds of barbecued fish. taurant. Proæura Historic centre (next to Marijina konoba, Marija i Nikola Belin. the square of GunduliÊeva Only homemade and fresh. While Marija is in charge poljana) of the cooker, Nikola handles his special variety of Marco Polo, Mladen bread oven where he bakes goat meat and fish. A AvejiÊ. Leut pier adjacent to the restaurant. Very tasty cuisine with variable menus, as dictated by seasonal offerings. Less THE BAY OF STON known dishes of Dubrovnik’s cuisine are frequently Kobaπ served. Ribareva kuÊa, Nedjeljko BiliÊ. Simple homemade grub in a wonderful setting. A CAVTAT pier adjacent to the restau- Leut, Ivo BobiÊ rant One of the oldest Adriatic restaurants. Traditional home-grown recipies with a touch of innovation ©IPAN (scampi risotto). Situated at the end of the harbour Luka πipanska with a view on the sea front where your boat is an- Kod Marka, Marko chored. PriæmiÊ. The patron’s sophisticated recipes refined in the FROM SPLIT course of his pre-retire- TO MURTER ment years in the most Kod Marka prestigious restaurants and hotels of Dubrovnik. Part of the restaurant stretches TROGIR to the seafront where you can tie up, or else you can »elica, the Cvetko family. use one of the two buoys. A ship converted into a LOPUD restaurant next to Trogir’s Piccolo Kod PerËina, Zdravko PerËin. marina. Patron Saπa, Zdravko carries on the tradition of this family-run known under his nickname Cvejo, is a veteran of restaurant where only his own recipes are used. Top- diving and fishing. Today he, together with his son, class cuisine. You can anchor outside the restaurant still fishes so they cook what they catch. A very good or tie up in the nearby harbour. fish stew. VELI DRVENIK MALI ZATON The cove of Krknjaπi Orsan, the GveroviÊ family. Krknjaπi, Ivica ©pika. The first Adriatic restaurant for yacthies in a fabu- What is eaten here is again what patron Ivica catches, lous location. The top- and he also has quite a class recipes refined by reputation as one of the Nika and Miro GveroviÊ. best Dalmatian fisher- The fame of their black ri- men. His wife’s family are sotto knows no bounda- farmers, so all vegetables ries. There is a designated come from their own gar- pier next to the restaurant. dens. Splendid ambience. DUBROVNIK Anchoring in the cove or Gruæ (Lapad) tying up to the restau- Orsan, Sveto PeiÊ. Orsan rant’s pier. Krknjaπi PBZ Leasing Charter 21 Untitled-2 21 28.9.00, 14.23 SMOKVICA VELA (THE KORNATI ISLANDS) KATINA Piccolo, the TurËinov brothers. Vela Proversa Channel A fisherman’s family who cook what they catch Mare, Vjekoslav ©eπelja. themselves. The lady who runs it cooked for ten The oldest restaurant in the Kornati. Simple dishes years in Murter’s most famous restaurant, Tic-Tac. as practised by fishermen who have always fre- Anchoring in the cove or tying up to the restau- quented this place as a remote outpost. rant’s pier. ÆUT KORNAT The cove of HiljaËa The cove of Opat Sabuni, Edi Juraga Æmara Opat, Mile Boæikov. Fish and crustaceans are cooked by all of the numer- The fish caught by the ous family. Anchoring in the well-protected cove. patrons are prepared both THE ISLAND OF MURTER on the barbecue and in Murter the bread oven. The Tic-Tac, Slobodan youngest son Ante is a PlesliÊ professional chef who Ante An inspiring cross be- also spent some time working in Tic-Tac.