Architecture
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Alinjagala after restoration
Ismayil HAJIYEV Doctor of History, Professor, active member of the Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences
ALINJAGALA – UNBENDING SYMBOL OF AZERBAIJAN www.irs-az.com 19 Architecture General plan and plan of the Alinjagala entrance gate (author V. Karimov)
linjagala is located on the steep Mount Alinja 30 chivan in the third millennium BC, and such residential kilometers east of the city of Nakhchivan, in the areas were widely used in the subsequent period. (3, p.5) Aterritory of the village of Khanagah in Julfa District, The history of Alinjagala, which has an extremely on the right bank of the Alinja River at a height of 1,811 favorable geographic position in terms of defense, is meters. Alinjagala consists mainly of three broad areas. closely linked to the fight of the Azerbaijani people for There were stone steps to climb from the first area to the freedom and independence and against foreign invad- second and third areas of the castle. The entrances to the ers. For this reason, Alinjagala gained great fame in his- castle are located on the eastern and western sides. tory as a symbol of the resilience and fighting spirit of Based on historical sources, researchers attribute the the Azerbaijani people. castle to two thousand years ago. The castle was built by Historians such as Asogik (928-1019), Nasavi (13th the Alinjak tribal union more than two thousand years century), Sharafaddin Ali Yazdi (15th century), Spanish ago and was restored before the fifth century AD. (1, p. ambassador Clavijo (15th century), Turkish traveler Ev- 351) Alinjak is one of the ancient Turkic clans. The name liya Celebi (17th century) and others provided interest- Alinja was derived from the name of that tribal union. (3, ing and important information about Alinjagala. Clavijo pp. 22-23) The Alinjak tribe ensured their security here. In wrote the following about the castle: “Alinjagala is locat- general, castle-type residential areas appeared in Nakh- ed on a high and steep mountain and is surrounded by
20 Remains of Alinjagala walls. Photowww.irs-az.com of the 1960s 4(27), WINTER 2016 Project on reconstruction of Alinjagala walls (author V. Karimov)
of some of the pools was 20 meters and width – about five meters. (3, p.8) Alinjagala played an irreplaceable role in the history of medieval states in Azerbaijan, as well as in the fight of the Azerbaijani people for freedom. The castle was used to keep state treasuries, as a shelter for the ruling elite, a place where political prisoners were kept and as a defensive fortification against foreign enemies. Medieval sources contain a lot of information about Alinjagala, which takes an honorable place in the history of Azerbaijan. Among these sources, the most ancient source known to science, which mentions Alinjagala, is the ballad “Kitabi Dada Gorgud”. Alinjagala is mentioned walls and towers. Inside the walls there were vineyards, in the chapter “Uşun Qoca oğlu Sяgrяk boyunu bяyan gardens, fields, pastures, springs and pools on the lower edяr”. (5, pp. 110, 208) parts of mountain slopes. The castle and fort are located Alinjagala has a special place in the history of Azer- on the summit of the mountain.” (14, pp. 158-161) baijani statehood. Azerbaijani feudal states paid special The castle could accommodate up to 600 fighters attention to this castle and used it for defense purposes with their horses and munitions. Stables where horse- during wars. At the time of the Azerbaijan Atabay state men kept their horses, food warehouses and tandirs (1136-1225), the political, military-strategic and econom- were found here. Large public houses made it possible ic importance of the castle increased even more, and it to keep food reserves. In order to meet the demand for was used as an important military fortification, a place water, pools and ditches were used. Small canals were where the state treasury was kept, a shelter for ensur- built on the rocks in order to collect water in the pools. ing the security of the ruler’s family, a prison where im- Up to 15 pools were discovered at Alinjagala. The length portant prisoners were held and for other purposes. The www.irs-az.com 21 Architecture View of Alinjagala
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Almost all paths are blocked by walls
residency of Atabay Muhammad Jahan Pahlavan’s wife, the ruler of Nakhchivan, Zahida khatun, and the treasury of the Ildenizids were located at this castle. (7, p. 14) Alinjagala was under the rule of the Hulaguids in the 13th century and was taken over by the Jalairids in the second half of the 14th century. Considering the strategic importance of the castle, the Jalairids always tried to fortify it. Ahead of Tamerlane’s invasion, Jalairid ruler Sultan Ahmad placed his treasury, family, son and close associated at the castle and instructed Amir Altun to defend it. (1, p. 351) The defense of the castle, which had up to 300 fighters, was entrusted to Malik Tahir, the management of the castle to Khaja Jovhar and after his death to Amir Altun and after Amir Altun’s assassination to Seyyid Ahmad Ogulsami. (7, p. 15) Alinjagala steadily resisted attacks by Tamerlane’s troops for 14 years – from 1387 to 1401 and never sur- rendered. However, disagreements that began inside the castle had a serious impact on its defenders and some of them turned their back on Malik Tahir and left the castle. Malik Tahir sensed his helplessness, took the Jalairids’ treasury in Alinjagala and moved to Baghdad. Thus, the castle was gradually deserted and after that, Tamerlane’s troops seized the abandoned castle. Tamer- lane, who returned from his travel to India and came to resisted his troops for 14 years and paid a special visit Azerbaijan, was astonished by the fact that Alinjagala to the castle. www.irs-az.com 23 Architecture Walls block even the slopes
After the death of Tamerlane in 1405, the castle was taken over by the Jalairids and Qara Qoyunlu again. Qara Qoyunlu Isgandar, who was defeated in a battle against the armed forces of Tamerlane’s son Shahrukh and was betrayed by his brothers, was forced to hide at Alinjagala together with his family. (2, pp. 138-139) How- ever, Isgandar was killed here and Alinjagala was taken over by Jahanshah. Alinjagala, which was controlled by Ag Qoyunlu in the second half of the 15th century, was seized by Safavid rulers together with Nakhchivan in 1501. One of the most valuable sources regarding the history of the Safavid state “Tarikh-i Alamara-yi Abbasi (Abbas’ history that decorates the world) indicates that under the Safavids, Alinjagala retained its importance both as a reliable shelter and as a prison. The source shows that after Farhad Pasha took Iravan in August 1583 during the Safavid-Ottoman war that began in 1578, Chukhursad baylarbay Muhammad Khan left the city of Iravan, came to Nakhchivan and accommodated the families of fighters at Alinjagala. (4, p. 570) Although reconstruction and renovation work was carried out at Alinjagala under the Safavids and a num- ber of defensive structures, including defensive for- tifications, gates and towers were built (3, p. 730), the castle sustained great damage during feudal infighting and wars, was ruined and was used as a residential area during the Middle Ages. It was precisely for this reason that the “Detailed book of the Nakhchivan province”
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Internal structures of Alinjagala
describes Alinjagala as a residential area – Alinjagala, cultural monuments in our country, Alinjagala was also which is subordinate to the Alinja region. (11, p. 85) surrounded with high state attention. Alinjagala was in- In the subsequent period, Alinjagala gradually lost cluded as a monument of global importance on the list its importance as a result of feudal infighting and wars, of “Historical and cultural monuments of global, national sustained serious damage and was ruined. Despite that, and local importance among immovable historical and Alinjagala showed its military-strategic importance cultural monuments in the territory of the Nakhchivan and defensive capability in the subsequent period and Autonomous Republic” endorsed by 21 November 2007 even in the 19th century. M. Mirheydarzadeh writes in decision No 98 of the Cabinet of Ministers of the Nakh- this regard: “…In 1242 hijrah (1826-27 – I. H.), during the chivan Autonomous Republic. Russo-Persian War, the commander of the castle, Lachin In April 2014, restoration work began at Alinjagala. bay, fought for about six months.” (9, p. 80) During the restoration work, a road was built to the As Alinjagala was a strong and fortified defensive summit of the castle – 1,301 steps were installed and structure, it housed the mints of various Azerbaijani communication was facilitated. Ancient settlements, states in the Middle Ages. Coins were minted here on farming buildings, castle walls, defensive installations, behalf of feudal rulers of Azerbaijan at various times. The trenches and towers and bodies of water were studied, samples of coins that have been found confirm that in their forms were determined and restored preserving the 7th century and in the 13th-first half of the 14th cen- their historical appearance. The eastern and western tury, Alinjagala was one of the main centers that minted walls of the castle, which reflects the traces of the Na- coins. (3, pp. 50-53) khchivan architecture school in terms of construction A symbol of Azerbaijan’s resilience and a source of techniques and planning, were also restored to their pride for our people, Alinjagala was left without care previous appearance. Also, the Alinjagala Historical- for a long time, especially in the 20th century and ex- Cultural Museum was created on the western slope of perienced serious erosions. However, after Azerbaijan Mount Alinja and on the edge of the road leading to regained its state independence, like other material- the castle. www.irs-az.com 25 Architecture The top commands a view of all the surroundings
Restoration work at Alinjagala was completed and 5. Kitabi Dədə-Qorqud. Tərtib edənlər: F.Zeynalov, an opening ceremony was held on 17 June 2016. Along S.Əlizadə. Bakı, 1988, 265 s. with that, Alinjagala, which played a great role in the 6. Köprülü Fuad M. Alancaq. İslam ensiklopediyası. political and military history of the Azerbaijani people, C 4, s. 302-304. became an attraction for the population of Nakhchivan 7. Məmmədov R. Əlincəqalanın orta əsrlər tarixi and visitors to the autonomous republic. haqqında. “Azərbaycan tarixinə dair materiallar”. Thus, Alinjagala, which is closely linked to the fight of Bakı, 1973, s. 8-16. the Azerbaijani people for freedom and independence 8. Məmmədov R. Naxçıvan şəhərinin tarixi oçerki. and against foreign invaders and turned into a symbol Bakı, 1977, 158 s. of Azerbaijan’s resilience, was given a new lease of life, 9. Mirheydərzadə M. Əbrəqunus dairəsi, məşhur and this great monument created by our people was Əlincə çayı sahilində bir neçə kəndin və Əlincə qa- returned to us. lasının tədqiqi. “Azərbaycanı öyrənmə yolu”. Bakı, 1930, № 4-5, s.78-80. References: 10. Naxçıvan abidələri ensiklopediyası. İstanbul, 2008, 519 s. 1. Azərbaycan tarixi. Ən qədim zamanlardan XX əs- 11. Naxçıvan sancağının müfəssəl dəftəri. Araşdırma, rədək. I cild. Akad. Z.Bünyadov və prof. Y.Yusifo- qeyd və şərhlərin müəllifi H.Məmmədov. Bakı, Elm, vun redaktəsi ilə. Bakı: Azərnəşr, 1994, 680 s. 2001, 374 s. 2. Əbubəkr Tehrani. Kitabi Diyarbəkiriyyə. Fars dilin- 12. Quliyev Ə. Naxçıvan kəhrizləri. Bakı: Nurlan, 2008, dən tərcümə edən və ön sözün müəllifi Rahilə Şü- 164 s. kürova. Bakı, Elm, 1998, 336 s. 13. Рюи Гонзалес де Клавихо. Дневник путешествия 3. Əlincəqala. Məqalələr toplusu (Azərbaycan, rus və ко двору Тимура в Самарканд в. 1405-1406 гг. ingilis dillərinə). Naxçıvan: Əcəmi, 2016, 304 s. Сборник «ОРЯС», СПб, 1881, с. 158-161. 4. İsgəndər bəy Munşi. Tarix-i aləməra-yi Abbasi (Ab- 14. Казвини Хамдаллах. «Нузхат ал-Кулиб». Пер. basın dünyanı bəzəyən tarixi). I cild. Farscadan с английского З.М.Буниятова, пер. с перс. tərcümənin, ön sözün, şərhlərin və göstəricilərin И.П.Петрушевского. Баку, 1983, с.37-65. müəllifləri Oktay Əfəndiyev, Namiq Musalı. Bakı: Təhsil, 2009, 792 s.
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The view of the fortress at night is fascinating www.irs-az.com 27