© Lonely Planet Publications 340 Index

See also GreenDex pp348-9. Aronis 147 -watching 207, 285 ABBREVIATIONS artefacts 42, 47, 298-9, see also Bensbach 208 A ACT Australian Capital carvings 116 Territory Abel, Reverend Charles 86, 117 bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kimbe Bay 226 NSW New South Wales accommodation 282-5, see also Buka baskets 47, 241-2 Kiunga 206, 207 NT Northern Territory individual locations Highland hats 47, 81, 159, 167 239 Qld Queensland village stays 122, 235 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 239 SA South activities 285-9, see also individual nguzunguzus 46 Mt Hagen 169 Tas Tasmania activities pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Rennell 279 Vic Victoria acute mountain sickness 324 storyboards 45-6, 177, 198 Island 116 WA Western Australia Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft 44-5, 47, 137 Tari 173-4 wreck 245 arts 41-7, see also individual arts tours 173-4, 206, 285 agriculture 22-3 books 45 Tufi 108 Ahus Island 239 Asaro mud men 159-60 Varirata National Park 83 Aibom 198 Aseki 140 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 air travel ATMs 297 Black Cat Track 137 airfares 308 Auki 276 26, 87, 227-8 airlines 306-7 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) 110 Blackwater Lakes 199 airports 306-7 Avu Avu 261 Blue Lagoon Lookout 218 history 312 boat travel 286, 315-16, see also to/from PNG & B canoes, rafting, sailing 307-10 Baeroko Bay 265 Sepik River 191-3 INDEX within PNG & Solomon Islands Baining people 213, 215 to/from PNG 311 312-15 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 to/from Solomon Islands 311 Aitape 187 Bandit 149-50 Bobongara 138 Alexishafen 147 bandits, see raskols Bogia 147 Alotau 109-13, 110 Bargam 147 Bol 236 Amboin 199 Basilisk Passage 76 Bolubolu 118 Ambunti 194 baskets 47, 241-2 Boluminski Hwy 235-6 Amron 147 bathrooms 301 Bomana War Cemetery 83 ancestor worship 36 bats 49, 142 Bonegi 259 Anderson, Robin 42 Battle of Milne Bay 88 books 16, 17 Anga people 127, 201 Battle of Wau 125 arts 45 Anganmai 199 Bau 137 48, 49 Angoram 197-8 Beehives, the 219, 223 Bougainville 30 animals 48-52, see also individual Bellona 281 food 66 species Bellona Province 279-81 28, 103 books 50, 51 Bensbach 208 travel 16 wildlife-watching 53, betel nut 35 wildlife 50, 51 289 Betikama 258-9 WWII 28 April (Wara) River 198 bicycle travel, see cycling border crossings 310-11, 314 Arawa 244 Bilbil 145-6 Botanical Gardens 129 architecture 44 bigmen 34, 35 Bougainville 243-5 area codes 300, see also inside front bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 books 30 cover Bird island 280 itineraries 20 Arnarvon Islands 280 birds 48-51, see also individual Bougainville Revolution Army 29, 241, species 245, 314 000 Map pages birds of paradise 50-1, 129, 173, Boulay, Franck 61 000 Photograph pages 206, 207 Brahmin 149 books 48, 49 British East India Company 25 Index (B-D) 341

Buin 245 Riba Cave 276 Umboldi Cultural Show 149 Buka 242-3 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172 Wahgi Cultural Show 294 Buka baskets 47, 241-2 caving 286 culture 33-47 242-3 cell phones 300 ancestor worship 36 Buka Passage 242, 242 cemeteries bigmen 34, 35 Bula Falls 135 Bagail Cemetery 229 bride price 36 Bulldog Track 137 Bita Paka War Cemetery 218 initiation rites 36, 197 Bulolo 139-40 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Southern Highlands 170 Buna 106 War Cemetery 129-30 wantoks 37 Bundi 149 Cemetery 142 customs, food 66 bushwalking, see trekking, walking Peter ToRot’s cemetery & customs regulations 291 business hours 290 memorial church 219 cycling 236, 315 Butaweng waterfalls 138 Centennial Hill 89 butterflies 51, 54, 105, 147 Central Province (PNG) 88-90, 86-7 D Butterfly Ranch 139 history 86-7 Dalom 236 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 Central Province (Solomon Islands) Dampier, William 25, 150 Bwetalu village 122 261-3, 261 dance 43-4 Chambri Lakes 198-9 dangers 291-2 C children, travel with 290 diving 325 123 Chimondo 198 hitching 318 camping 282 Chinatown 253 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296 cannibalism 23, 25 Choiseul 280 darts 156 Anga people 201 Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Daru 205 China Strait 116 242 Daugo Island 76

laughing disease 161 Christopher Robinson Memorial 115 Daulo Pass 160 INDEX 212 cinema 42-3, see also films David Suzuki Trail 136 Province 228 climate 15, 290-1 de Bougainville, Louis 24-5 canoes 316 global warming 53-4, 307 de Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro 23-4 Cape Espérance 260 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 dengue fever 322 Cape Moem 183 Connolly, Bob 42 D’Entrecasteaux Islands 116-18 Cape Wom International Memorial consulates 293 diarrhoea 323 Park 183 coral cuts 325 disabilities, travellers with 301-2 car travel 317-18 coral ear 325 diving 55-63, 286-7, 55, 5 cargo cults 33, 34 cormorants 280 Gizo 63, 270-1 Carteret, Captain Philip 24 costs 15-16 60 carvings 45 crafts, see artefacts hazards 325 buying carvings 298 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management 253 Gogdala 46 Area 160 internet resources 62 Malangan 46, 228 credit cards 297 Kavieng 59, 230-1 master carvers 46, 122, 191, 269 cricket 39, 121, 6 Kimbe Bay 59, 226 Sepik, the 177, 183, 195, 7 crocodiles 48, 208, 324 Kokopo 214-15 122 Crocodile Festival 194 live-aboard boats 57, 115 Wewak 183 cruises 315 Madang 56-7, 142-3 cassowaries 48-9 Crystal Rapids 84 62-3, 267-8 caves cults 33, 34, 36, 120 Milne Bay 58 Benua Cave 241 cultural shows 10, 294, see also muck diving 57, 58, 107, 116, 286-7 burial caves 140 festivals Munda 61-2, 264 Kalopa Cave 120 Bargam Agricultural Show 147 57, 76 Kantobo 172 Cameron Cultural Show 111 58, 220 Keu Caves 162 Goroka Show 158 61 Loniu Cave 239 Hagita Cultural Show 111 Samarai Island 116 Manubyai Cave 147 Kundiawa Simbu Show 294 Tawali 115 Octopus Cave 280 Morobe Show 131 Tufi 57, 107 Oketemp Cave 188 Mt Hagen Show 166 61, 262 Oksapmin 188 Tufi Cultural Show 107 WWII sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253 342 Index (D-H)

documentaries 42 International Orchid Spectacular 76 Goilala region 90 Doini Island 116 Kalam Culture Festival 149 golf drinks 65 Mabarosa Festival 143 Lae 131 driving 317-18 Malagan Festival 231 Madang 143 Duke of York Group 224, 225 Milamala Festival 119 Port Moresby 76 Dutch East Indies Company 24 Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Wewak 181 Festival 111 Gona 106 E PNG Coffee Festival 158 118 Earhart, Amelia 26, 128 Warwagira Festival 215 Goroka 156-9, 157 East Cape 113-14 yam festivals 184 Govermas 199 East Islands 234-5 filariasis 322 Green Island 238 East New Britain Historical & Cultural films 17, 41, 42, see also cinema Green River 193 Centre 214 Finschhafen 138-9 Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 East New Britain Province 213-25 First Contact 27, 42, 153 diving 60 East Sepik Province 178-85 fishing 287 Guinea Airways 312 Eastern Highlands Province Alotau 111 Gulf Province 201-4, 202-3 156-61 Baia 227 gun run 314 Eastern Island Groups 238 Bensbach 208 Gwado 135 economy 12, 36-8 Daru 205 Gwale people 30, 249 ecotourism 54 Honiara 253 GreenDex 348-9 Kavieng 231 H electricity 283 Kikori 204 Hansa Bay 148 elephantiasis 322 Lae 131 Hanuabada 73 embassies 293 Marovo Lagoon 268 haus tambarans 36, 44, 195 emergencies, see inside front cover Ramata 268 headdresses 46 Enga Province 168-9 Flannery, Tim 48 head-hunting 23, 201, 228, Enhanced Cooperation Program 13 Fly River 201, 204, 206 277 INDEX Enoghae 265 flying foxes 49, 52, 140 health 320-6 environment 48-54 Flynn, Errol 16, 22, 87 insurance 320 environmental issues 52-4 food 64-7, 294, see also individual internet resources 321 global warming 53-4, 307 locations hepatitis A 322 Marovo Lagoon 266 books 66 hepatitis B 323 mining 52-3 customs 66 Hermit 240 Sepik, the 177 football 39 Highlands, the 152-74, 154-5 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249 Free West Papua Movement 30, 176 Eastern Highlands Province 156-61 events, see cultural shows, festivals frogs 50, 52 Enga Province 168-9 exchange rates, see inside front fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 Simbu Province 161-3 cover Southern Highlands Province expatriates 38-9 G 169-74 Gagidu Station 138 Western Highlands Province 163-8 F Galahi Island 116 hiking, see trekking, walking fax services 300-1 garamuts 43, 45 Hiritano Hwy 84, 89-90 Feni Island 238 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 history 22-32, see also Kokoda Track, 118 gay travellers 294-5 WWII festivals 294, see also cultural shows Gazelle Peninsula 212, 220, blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival 218-19 German settlement 25 131-2 geography 48 independence 29 Crocodile Festival 194 German Company 125, WWI 26 Enga Festival 168 138, 176, 212, 240 hitching 318 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 German settlement 25 Hiti people 24 Hiri Moale Festival 76 270-4 HIV/AIDS 323 giardiasis 324 holidays 295 000 Map pages Gifu 258 Holupuru Falls 265 000 Photograph pages Gizo 270-3, 271 Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral 253 diving 63, 270-1 Hombrum Bluff Lookout 83 Index (H-L) 343

Honiara 247-58, 252-3 Kaip village 169 Kokopo 213-18, 214 accommodation 253-5 Kairiru Island 184 Koliwan, Moses 244 attractions 250 Kaisiga 120 274 diving 253 Kambaramba 198 Komate 261 drinking 256 Kambot 198 Konogogo 237 entertainment 256-7 Kamiali Wildlife Management Area Konos 236 food 255-6 136-7 Kontu 237 travel to/from 257 Kamina 204 Korogo 194 travel within 257-8 Kaminabit 196 Krangket Island 145 Hoskins 225 Kanabea 204 kula ring 117 hotels 282-4, see also individual Kanganaman 195 Kuma 261 locations kangaroos, tree 50, 150 Kundiawa 161-2 beach 90 Kangu Beach 245 kundu drums 43 Huli people 170, 173 Kantobo 172 kuru 161 Huli wigmen 173 Karavia Bay 218 Kwaibala Waterfall 276 Huon Gulf coast 135-8 Karawari River 199 Kwaio people 278 150-1 Kwato Island 116 I Kau Museum & Ialibu 171-2 Conservation Area 147 L Ihu 203-4 Kauage, Mathias 41, 45 Lababia 136 Indabu 195, 198 Kavieng 229-34, 230 Labi Island 121 independence 29 diving 59, 230-1 Labu Lakes 135 initiation rites 36, 197 kayaking 286 Labu Tali Conservation Area 135-6 insurance Kavieng 229, 231 Lae 128-35, 130

health 320 Loloata Island 90 accommodation 132-3 INDEX travel 295 Marovo Lagoon 268-9 attractions 129 internet access 295 63, 271 festivals 131 internet resources 16-18 Kennedy, John F 27, 273 food 133 diving 62 Keram River 198 travel to/from 134 health 321 Kerema 202-3 travel within 134-5 music 43 Kieta 244 Lae War Cemetery 129-30 WWII 27 Kikori 204 Laiagam 169 Isabel 280 Kimbe 225-6 Laing Island 148 Island Provinces 209-45, 210-11 Kimbe Bay 226 Lake Govermas 199 itineraries 19-21 diving 59, 226 Lake Kopiago 174 Island 119-23, 119 Lake Kutubu 172 J Island 121 Lake Rau 169 Jacquinot Bay 224 Kiunga 206-7 Laloki River Gorge 83 Jais Aben 146-7 Kohinggo island 266 277-8 James, Keith 231 Koitabu people 69 Langemack Bay 138 Japanese B Encephalitis 323 Koki 73-4 language 327-30 Japanese Barge Tunnels 218 Kokoda 105 food glossary 67 Japanese bases 106, 274 Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation Summer Institute of Linguistics Japanese Memorial Peace Park 180 106 160 Japanese Observation Point 258 Kokoda Track 27, 91-105, 92-3, Lapita people 22, 212 Japanese Peace Memorial 220 94-5, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 278 jellyfish 325 103, 104 laughing disease 161 jewellery 46-7 books 28, 103 Lavongai (New Hanover) 234 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 history 27, 98-100 Leahy, Mick 27 Kokoda Challenge 101 leatherback turtles 135, 136 K maps 93 leeches 324 Kaibola village 120 planning 91-5 legal matters 295-6 Island 120 travel to/from 95-6 Lelet Plateau 237 Kainantu 160-1 trekking companies 93-5 lesbian travellers 294-5 Kaintiba 204 Kokopau 244 Libba 236 344 Index (L-N)

Lido 187 maps 296 Mt Bau 265 Lihir 238 Kokoda Track 93 Mt Bosavi 172-3 literature, see books 260 Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park 160 live-aboard boats 57, 115 Mariama 199 Mt Hagen 164-8, 164 logging 52, 54, 185, 266 markets Mt Kis Lookout 158 265 Gizo 270 Mt Lamanai 118 Loloata Island 90 Goroka 159 Mt Lamington 29, 106 Loloho 244 Honiara 252 Mt Lunaman 130-1 Long Island 150 Koki 73 Mt Tambu 136 Los Negros Island 239-40 Kokopo 214-15 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, 222, Louisade Archipelago 123 Mt Hagen 167 223, 8 Lutheran Mission 125 Port Moresby 81 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 Wewak 182-3 Mt Wilhelm 162-3 M Marovo Lagoon 266-70, 267 muck diving 58, 286-7 MacGregor, Sir William 26 diving 62-3, 267-8 Samarai Island 116 Madang 140-5, 141 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 Tufi 57, 107 diving 56-7, 142-3 Mataniko Falls 258 mud men 159-60 140-51, Matupit Island 223 Munda 264 126-7 May (Iwa) River 198 diving 61-2, 264 history 125 Mbanbanakira 261 Murik Lakes 198 Madehas Island 242 McDonald’s Corner 83 Muschu Island 184 Magendo 198 measures 283, see also inside front museums Magi Hwy 90 cover Betikama WWII museum 259 magic practice 34, 35, 41, 278, see medical services 321-2, see also health East New Britain Historical & also witchcraft Mekeo people 89 Cultural Centre 214 Magiya 147 Mendam 198 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 Maio 193 Mendi 170-1 Kau Rainforest Museum & INDEX -Ulawa 280 Menyamya 140 Conservation Area 147 Island 274-9 Messi 237 Madang museum 142 274-9, 275 metric conversions, see inside front Munda WWII museum Malalaua 204 cover 264 Malangan 46 109-23, 86-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) malaria 323 diving 58 75-6 Malay people 23 Mindimbit 196 National Museum & Cultural Malinowski, Bronsilaw 118, 120 mining 36, 52 Centre (Honiara) 251 Malmaluan Lookout 219 Bougainville copper mine 12 New Guinea Club & Rabaul Malolo 147 Ok Tedi Mine 205 Museum 219 Malom 236 Panguna mine 241 Vilu open-air museum 260 Malu’u 278 Porgera mine 168 Wabag cultural centre 168 Mamara Beach 259 Mioko Island 224 music 43 Mameri 199 123 Mustar, Pard 312 Mana 262 mobile phones 300 Manam Island 148, 151 moga ceremony 171 N Maneba 138 Moim 198 Nagada Harbour 146 Mangalonga 262 money 15-16, 293, 296-7, see also Nagam 198 Manikaraku 260 inside front cover Namatanai 236-8 Manta Ray Cleaning Station 116 Moresby, Captain John 69 Nateara Reef 76 Manubada (Local) Island 76 Morgan Junction 244 National Botanic Gardens 76 Manus Island 239 127-40, 126-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) 238-40 mosquitoes 178, 322, 323 75-6 Maprik 184-5 Moti, Julian 14, 31 National Museum & Cultural Centre motorcycle travel 317-18 (Honiara) 251 000 Map pages Motu people 69 national parks 52 000 Photograph pages Mt Austen Rd 258 Lake Kutubu 172 Mt Balbi 244 Varirata National Park 83 Index (N-S) 345

National Parliament 251 Popondetta 105-7 Rossel (Yela) Island 123 Ndoma 260 population 38-9 Rouna Falls 83 New Britain 212-27, 218-19 Port Moresby 68-84, 70-1 Roviana Lagoon 265 East New Britain Province 213-25 accommodation 78-9 Ruaniu 260 West New Britain Province 225-7 activities 76 Russell Islands 263 New Ireland Province 227-38 attractions 73-6 diving 61 newspapers 40, 283 Boroko 77 261-2 diving 57, 76 S Ninigo 240 drinking 79-80 safe travel 291-2 Nobonob 146 Ela Beach 75 diving 325 Normanby Island 117-18 entertainment 80-1 hitching 318 Noro 265 festivals 76 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296 Northern Malaita Island 278 food 79-80 Saidowai village 118 North Solomons Province shopping 81 Saigara 137 240-5 tours 76 sailing 231, 234, 315 Nusa Roviana 265 travel to/from 81-2 Sal Island 242 travel within 82-3 136 O Waigani 77 Salemben 147 Obweria village 122 postal services 298 Salvinia molesta 177 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Samarai Island 115-16 Ok Tedi Mine 205 printmaking 44-5 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178 Oksapmin 174, 188 PT boats 108 Sandfly Passage 262 Omarakana 120 Putput 235 Sandline Affair 30, 241 Ona, Francis 29, 30, 241 Sapeahora 204

opening hours 290 Q Savo 262-3 INDEX Oro Bay 107 Queen Emma’s house 214 sea-kayaking 286 Oro Province 105-8, 86-7 Sepik region 175-88 history 86-7 R carvings 177, 183, 195, 7 Rabaul 219-23, 220 East Sepik Province 178-85, 178 P diving 58, 220 environmental issues 177 Pagwi 194 Rabaul Nakaia 224 initiation rites 197 painting 44-5 radio 40, 283 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178 Palambei 195 rafting 221, 224 Sepik River 188-99, 8 Panguna 244 Rainforest Habitat 129 Lower Sepik 197-8, 196-7 Paradise beach 89 Ramu River 148 Middle Sepik 194-7, 196-7 Parliament Haus 74-5 274 planning 189-90 passports 306 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, tours 181, 193 Pema 137 296 tributaries & lakes 198-9 Peter ToRot’s cemetery & rats 51 Upper Sepik 193-4 memorial church 219 Raun Raun Theatre 157 Sepo island 274 Phantom, the 34 280 Seremi village 106 phonecards 300 refugee detention centre 239 Sewa Bay 117 photography 297 Regional Assistance Mission to the shark calling 237 Pigeon Island 280 Solomon Islands 13-14, 249 sharks 237 Pijin 327-8 religion 40, see also cults, magic shopping 298-9 planning 293, see also practice, witchcraft 280 itineraries ancestor worship 36 Siar Island 145 plants 49, 51, see also individual plants Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Simbai 149 PMVs 318-19 Rendova 265 island 274 Poha 259 Rennell 279-81, 279 Simbu Province 161-3 Point Cruz 250 restaurants 65-6, see also individual Simpson Harbour 219 politics 12-14, 30-2 locations Sinasi Reef 76 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, Ringgi 274 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172 247, 249 ringtail possums 50 Skull island 265 Polynesian people 23 Robinson, Christopher 115 Skyline Drive 252 346 Index (S-W)

Smart, Rae 303 Tembin 237 Tulagi 262 snakes 50, 324 280 diving 61, 262 snorkelling, see diving Tenaru 259 turtles 135, 136 Sogavare, Manasseh 13 Teptep 150 TV 42-3, 283 Sogeri Rd 83-4 266 typhoid fever 323 Sohano Island 242 textiles 47 solo travellers 299 theatre 43-4 U Solomon Islands 246-81, 248 Raun Raun Theatre 152 268-9 Bellona Province 279-81 Timbunke 196 Ukarumpa 161 Central Province 261-3, 261 time 301, 350-1 Uluputur 237 culture 33, 247 toilets 301 Upper Ramu Project 161 Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 328-30 280 history 22 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Malaita Province 274-9, 275 207-8 V Rennell 279-81, 279 Tore, Tony 74 vacations 295 Western Province 263-74, 264 tourist information 301 vaccinations 320 Solomons Peace Memorial Park tours 319, see also village tours 280 258 Amboin 199 Vanimo 185-7 Somare, Sir Michael 13, 32 bird-watching 173-4, 206, 285 Varirata National Park 83 Songitin eternal flame 188 cultural tours 174, 268, 279 274 Southern Highlands Province 169-74 cycling tours 236 Veuru 260 souvenirs 299, see also artefacts Goroka 158 village stays 122, 235 spirit houses 36, 44, 195 Honiara 253 village tours sports 39, see also cricket Kavieng 231 Amboin 199 Stone Dog 265 kayaking 286 Jais Aben 147 string bags 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kokoda Track 93-5 Madang 143 Suapmeri 194-5 Kwaio people 278 Marovo Lagooon 269 INDEX Summer Institute of Linguistics 160 Lae 129, 131 Mt Hagen 165 sunburn 326 Madang 143 Putput 235 surfing 21, 287-8 Milne Bay 109, 111 Vilu open-air museum 260 itineraries 21 Mt Hagen 165-6 visas 302-3, see also passports Kavieng 229 Mt Wilhelm 162 volcanoes Los Negros Island 239 Port Moresby 76 Karkar Island 150-1 Manus Island 239 Rabaul 221 Manam Island 148, 151 Vanimo 186 Sepik River 181, 193 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, Swagup 193 walking tours 163, 172 222, 223, 8 West 264-5 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 T wildlife-watching 289 Savo 262 Tabar 238 WWII sites 221, 253, 265 volunteering 303-4 Tabubil 205-8 traditional medicine 326 Lagoon 265 Talasea 226 tree kangaroos 50, 150 Vulcanology Observatory 220 Tambanum 196-7 trekking 17, 288-9, see also walking Tami Island 138 Black Cat Track 137 W Tanga Island 238 Bulldog Track 137 Wabag 168-9 Tangarere 261 jungle tracks 289 Wagawaga 114 Tari 173 Kokoda Track 91-105 Wagu Lagoon 198 island 260 Kolombangara 274 Wahgi Valley 168 Tawali 115 Ramu River 149 Waigani 77 taxis 318 tribal art 191 Wakunai 244 Telefomin 188 Trobriand Islands 118-23 walking 319, see also trekking telephone services 300-1 carvings 122 Ialibu 172 Tsoi Island 234 Madang, to 163 000 Map pages tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Marovo Lagoon 268 000 Photograph pages Tufi 107-8 Mt Wilhelm 162 diving 57, 107 Rabaul 224 © Lonely Planet Publications Index (W-Y) 347

tours 163, 172 Western Province (Solomon Islands) Battle of Wau 125 Varirata National Park 83 263-74, 264 books 28 Wamol village 168 Wewak 179-83, 180 Bulldog Track 137 wantoks 37 White Island 242 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 war memorials White River Village 251-2 dive sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) Wickham, Dorothy 257 fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 110 wigmen 173 internet resources 27 Australian war memorial wildlife 48-52 itineraries 21 (Popondetta) 106 books 50, 51 PT boats 108 Cape Wom International Memorial wildlife management areas 52 tours 221, 253, 265 Park 183 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 WWII sites & relics Japanese war memorial (Aitape) 187 Crater Mountain Wildlife Alexishafen 147 Japanese war memorial (Poha) 259 Management Area 160 Buin 245 Memorial Gardens 259 Kamiali Wildlife Management Buka 242 US war memorial 252 Area 136-7 Buna 106 Waramo 187 Kantobo 172 Cape Moem 183 Waria Valley 137-8 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Guadalcanal 259 Wasi Falls 172 207-8 Kiriwina Island 120 Watam 148 wildlife-watching 53, 289 Kolombangara 274 water 323 Willaumez Peninsula 226 Kokopo 218 water hyacinth 177 windsurfing 289-90 Matupit Island 223 Wau 139-40 witchcraft 109, 116, see also magic Salamaua 136 Wawela 120 practice Talasea 226 weather 15 Wogamush River 198

tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Wom 198 Y INDEX Weathercoast 261 Wombun 198 Yabob 145 weaving 47 women in PNG 40-1 Yalaka village 122 websites, see internet resources women in Solomon Islands 40-1 Yambon 193 weights 283, see also inside front women travellers 304-5 Yamok 194 cover work 305 yams 35, 65, 120 West New Britain Province 225 240 Yandina 263 West New Georgia 263-6 WWI 26 Yaws 323 Western Highlands Province 163-8 WWII 21, 27-8, see also cemeteries, Yentchen 195 Western Province (PNG) 204-8, 202-3 Kokoda Track, museums, war Yessan 193 culture 201 memorials Yip 198 history 201 Battle of Milne Bay 88 89-90 348 GreenDex GREENDEX

The following attractions, activities, tours and accommodation have been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism. Some places are run locally or by a community (eg a women’s group or church) and profits remain in the community. Some are also unintentionally very ‘green’; they may have no electricity, and grow or catch their own food. Compared to consumption in the West, these places are very economical with resources. We’ve also included ecolodges that are upmarket compared to the local village guesthouse, and offer ecotours (such as bird-watching), which allow communities to make a living from the natural environment, and provide an alternative to selling up to mining and logging companies. We want to keep developing our sustainable-travel content. If you think we’ve omitted someone who should be listed here, or if you disagree with our choices, contact us at www.lonelyplanet .com/contact and set us straight for next time. For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA MADANG PROVINCE Kamiali Training Centre & CENTRAL PROVINCE accommodation Guesthouse (Lababia) 137 accommodation Anua Negu Lodge (Bogia) 148 Labu Tali guesthouse (Labu Tali Loloata Island Resort (Loloata CWA Guesthouse (Madang) 143 village) 135 Island) 90 Kalam Guest House (Simbai) 149 Lutheran Guesthouse (Lae) 132 Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse EAST NEW BRITAIN (Salemben) 148 (Lae) 132 PROVINCE Krangket Island Lodge (Krangket Salamaua Guesthouse (Salamaua) accommodation Island) 145 136 Kabaira Beach Hideaway Siar Island Guesthouse (Siar Salamaua High School (Salamaua) (Kabaira Bay) 224 Island) 145 136 Koki Women’s Guesthouse Teptep Guesthouse (Teptep) 150 Tami Guesthouse (Tami Island) 138 (Jacquinot Bay) 224 Tugutugu Guesthouse (Karkar Tulip Guesthouse (Bau) 138 Pisiua Guesthouse (Jacquinot Island) 151 Unu Guesthouse (Mt Unu) 138 Bay) 224 activities Wau Ecology Institute (Wau) 139 activities Aquaventures PNG (Jais Aben) 142 activities Rapopo Dive (Kokopo) Momahi Tours (Lae) 131 215 MILNE BAY PROVINCE Village Development Trust (Lae) tours accommodation 129 Kabaira Beach Hideaway Bweka Village Resort (Trobriand Wau Adventures (Wau) 139 (Kabaira Bay) 221 Islands) 121 Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 112 NEW IRELAND EASTERN HIGHLANDS Napatana Lodge (Alotau) 112 PROVINCE PROVINCE Saidowai Guesthouse (Normanby accommodation accommodation Island) 118 Island Escapades (Tunung Island) PNG National Appropriate Ulumani Treetops Lodge 234 Technology Centre (Mt (Wagawaga) 114 Lissenung Island Resort (Lissenung Gahavisuka Provincial Village Birth Attendant Centre Island) 232 Park) 160 (Trobriand Islands) 121 Malom Guesthouse (Malom activities village) 236 ENGA PROVINCE Education Milne Bay (Alotau) 109 Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi accommodation Boto Island) 234 Kumul Lodge (Mt Hagen) 169 MOROBE PROVINCE Nusa Island Retreat (Nusa Lik attractions accommodation Island) 232 Kaip Village Lifestyle Model Bula Falls Guesthouse (Gwado Panafilla Village Guesthouse (Kaip Village) 169 village) 136 (Bol) 236 GREENDEX 349 263

GreenDex (Russell Islands) © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Bilikiki (Tavanipupu Island) 260 260 (Tavanipupu Island) 260 Island) 278 (Langa Langa Lagoon) 272 268 274 272 266 (Tetepare Island) 269 Lagoon) 269 Lagoon) 265 Lagoon) 267 Lagoon) 267 Lagoon) Tawaihi Island Retreat Island (Tawaihi Tawaihi (Mbabanga Island) Fatboys Matikuri Lodge (Marovo Lagoon) Oravae Cottage (Sepo island) Sanbis Resort (Mbabanga Island) Descendants’ Association Tetepare Uepi Island Resort (Marovo Wilderness Lodge (Marovo Zipolo Habu Resort (Vonavona Uepi Island Resort (Marovo MV 262 (Tulagi) Dive Tulagi Island Resort Tavanipupu Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway 271 Dive Gizo (Gizo) (MarovoSolomon Dive Adventures WESTERN PROVINCE accommodation SOLOMON ISLANDS SOLOMON PROVINCE CENTRAL activities GUADALCANAL accommodation PROVINCE MALAITA accommodation activities

(Bensbach) 208 (Bensbach) 207 (Kimbe Bay) 227 (Kimbe Bay) 168 (Mendi) 171 (Mendi) 174 (Tari) 172 (Lake Kutubu) 226 (KimbeCentre Bay) 165 Hagen) 165 (Mt Hagen) (Mt Wilhelm) 163 (Mt Wilhelm) Bensbach Wildlife Lodge Bensbach Wildlife Ekame Lodge (Kiunga) Walindi Plantation Resort Wahgi Guesthouse (Wahgi Valley) Ambua Lodge (Tari) 174 Ambua Lodge (Tari) 171 Kiburu Lodge (Mendi) Guesthouse Pentecostal Women’s Guesthouse Tari Lodge Eco-Tourism Tubo 174 Warili Lodge (Tari) Mahonia Na Dari Conservation PNG Eco-Adventure Tours (Mt Trans Niugini Tours National Parks Board Huts Board Parks National SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS SOUTHERN PROVINCE WESTERN PROVINCE accommodation WEST NEW BRITAIN WEST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE accommodation WESTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE accommodation accommodation attractions tours

163 (Ambunti) 194 (Ambunti) 184 Island) 198 Lagoon) 192 (Bol) 236 (Bol) 237 Plateau) 235 (Putput) 234 (Tsoi Island) Charters (Nusa Lik Island) 230 230 (Kavieng) 231 (Kavieng)

Betty’s Place (Kegsugl) 163 Betty’s Place (Kegsugl) East Kegsugl Guesthouse (Kegsugl) Ambunti Lodge (Ambunti) 194 Ambunti Lodge (Ambunti) Auong Guesthouse (Muschu 199 Karawari Lodge (Amboin) Toheyo Guesthouse (Wasui 192 Chris Karis (Wewak) 192 Joseph Konai (Ambunti) Steven Buku (Wewak) Tufi Dive Resort (Tufi) 108 Dive ResortTufi (Tufi) Ambunti Catholic Mission Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles Peles Dodor Beach Panatalis (Lelet Guest House Puroro Village ResortTreehouse Guesthouse Lik Lagoon Tsoi Yacht in Paradise Adventures Kavieng Surf Club Scuba Ventures

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