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Special Techniques to Make Your Image Different

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Special Techniques to Make Your Image Different Special techniques to make your image different 1. Timelapse in one image During a photo tour in Yunnan province, China, we go shoot at a busy local market. I, however, like to experiment something new, presenting the hustle and bustle of the market photographically in a unique way: A time-lapse compressed into one image. To achieve the result, 2 approaches coming to my mind: Option 1. Using the in-camera Multiple exposure mode: Nikon cameras has multiple exposure functions for long time. After years of being ignored, it finally comes to Canon cameras starting 5D III, which I happen to use. This one is shot using "Average" mode in multiple exposure, I set total of 9 exposures, taking one shot every couple seconds, the exposure is automatically reduced, proportional to the number of shots taken, to avoid over-exposing common areas or overlapping bright areas. Where overlapping areas do occur, the final brightness level will be the same as the would have been in a single, properly- exposed shot. And, any non-overlapping areas will be darkened. The final combined image is automatically generated by the camera. The pro is that you can experiment a lot with this technique, simple and fast. The con however, is that you have no control on the resulting image at all. The camera has full control here. Option 2. Taking a lot shots and manipulate them in post processing: This is a hard way, but you have absolute control of the final image. It, however, is time-consuming and requires lots of fiddling with Photoshop. I take about a dozen images in the market. During the post processing, I select all of them in lightroom, right click to pop out the contextual menu, select "Edit in/Open as layers in Photoshop" Each image is placed in one layer in Photoshop Then I add layer masks to some layers, painting the masks to reveal underlying layer or hide portions of current layer. I also change layer mode in some layers to "soft light" or "overlay", as well as playing with the opacity of some layers. My design is to make the red-scarfed lady in the center, as the main subject, she will "lead" viewers into this busy market. thus, I intentionally make her the sharpest part of the image. I keep manipulating the layers until I really like the resulting image, then I merge all the layers into one. then, I open one of my favorite thirty-party Photoshop plug-ins: Tonal Contrast of Niksoftware's Color Efex Pro 4. It enhances the contrast and details of colors and textures. (By the way, Niksoftware has been bought by Google. It’s free download for all photographers now! I highly recommend this wonderful photoshop and lightroom plugin, you can download at https://www.google.com/nikcollection/) As the last step, I also adding a slight zoom blur to the image, to convey the sense of movement. (In Photoshop menu, click Filter/Blur/Radio Blur) This is another final image of a local market from a dozen images, using the same post processing technique. To me, freedom of expression is the paramount factor in my photography, whether achieving it in camera, or post processing, I don't really care, they are just tools and means to convey what's in my mind's eye. 2. Long Exposure and Low light/Night Photography I love playing with long exposure when opportunity presents itself. The effects of resulting image can be very visually intriguing and usually will be different from what your eyes see. To shoot long exposure, you have to use manual mode to gain full control of the exposure ; a tripod to maintain stability during the long exposure; a remote shutter release cable or wireless remote control to trigger the shutter; patience and warm clothing if it is chilly. There is no set rules as how long the shutter speed should be, you have to experiment extensively. It’s always a variable, because time of the day, light condition. speed of your subject are all influencing the exposure of resulting image. Here are couple of scenarios where long exposure works at its best: • Light Trails To shoot best light trail image, you have plan ahead as where and when to shoot it. First of all, location is very important, a busy intersection will be a good candidate, also the camera position matters, an elevated vantage point like a overpass, will be nice to shoot light trails below. For exposure, start with 20-30s, adjust it accordingly after reviewing the shot onsite. Choose a low ISO setting like ISO100 or 200, it will keep the digital noise level low. Manual focus is highly recommended, as in low light condition, camera will struggle with auto focus. Use your LCD liveview or Electronic Viewfinder (in mirrorless cameras) to focus manually. Use Bulb Mode(if shutter speed will be over 30s) to keep the shutter open as long as you wish, a remote shutter release is a must to use this mode. ISO100, F22, 40s • Dreamy Sea/Water/Sky Scape Again, a slow shutter speed is a must to render the dreamy, or silky water and clouds. If during daytime, the shutter speed is still not long enough to achieve the effect you like, when you set the aperture to the smallest(F22 or 32) and ISO to the minimum( ISO100 or 50). A Neutral density (ND) filter is required. By adding the ND filter to your lens, it will effectively cut down the amount of light entering the lens, hence, longer shutter speed. ISO100, F8, 51s, This is a daytime image, exposed in Bulb Mode The image below is Pacifica Pier, not far from my home. ISO100, F8, 40s. It is shot with Lee Filter’s 10-stop Big Stopper ND filter, it enable me to shoot very long exposure in daytime. The long exposure soften the sea surface and clouds, giving them a dream look. I convert it to blank and white in photoshop using Google Nikcollection’s Silver Efex Pro plug-in. • Night Sky/Astrophotography Now we are talking about shooting galaxy, northern lights, starry sky at night. In order to get a well exposed image in the darkness of night, we need lots of light hitting the camera sensor over an extended period of time. How “extended” it should be, the answer is, it generally should be around 15 to 30 seconds. Why? Because our earth is rotating constantly, hence the whole sky is moving too, if the exposure is too long, the stars in resulting image will become an unsightly blurry trail instead of a bright point/dot. There is rule of thumb to calculate the correct shutter speed for astrophotography, it’s called “400 rule” – Divide 400 by the focal length of the lens, this should be the shutter speed in seconds. For example, with 20mm lens, the shutter speed should be no longer than 20 seconds (400/20=20). In order to achieve the shutter speed of “400 rule”, we have adjust other 2 components of exposure: Open the aperture to maximum (wide open aperture), and increase ISO to 800- 6400 depending on brightness of the sky. For astrophotography, it is absolutely necessary to have a super wide angle lens that has an aperture of F2.8 or faster. The faster the better. For example, if you have a 20mm at F2.8, ISO has to be 3200, to achieve 20s shutter speed. Under the same condition, If you have a 20mm at F1.4, ISO only has to be 800, to achieve the same 20s shutter speed. The 2 stop difference on the lens(F2.8 vs F1.4), enable you to use 2 stop lower ISO(much less noise in the image) to achieve the same shutter speed. This is why lenses like Sigma 20mm F1.4, Tamron 15-30mmF2.8, and Nikon 20mmF1.8 are highly recommended for astrophotography. Also, cameras with excellent high ISO performance(Nikon D810 or D750, Canon 5D III or IV, Sony A7RII, etc) are widely used for astrophotography. ISO100, F2.8, 25s ISO100, F4, 25s • The best time to take photos of night cityscape – Blue Hours Simply put, the best time to take pictures of night cityscape is NOT at night when the sky is entirely black. Instead, the best time to photograph night cityscape is 30-45 minutes after sunset, when there is still blue in the sky. The dark blue sky is much more visually pleasing than a black one. It provides a colorful background and adds contrast to the city lighting, hence enhancing the visual impact of the image. This is shot during a Shanghai workshop, 40 minutes after sunset at the Bund, Shanghai. Canon 5D III + 24-105mm lens on tripod. Exposure: 4s @ F/11, ISO 100 • Shooting Firworks 1. Use tripod to secure the camera. 2. Set the camera to Manual mode, 3. Since fireworks will be at infinity(focal distance), set aperture to F8 or F11 to obtain the best optical quality of the lens. 4. Set shutter speed about 2-8 seconds. Opening the shutter too long will cause over-exposure of fireworks. Experiment to tweak your shutter speed to find a best result. 5. Use a shutter release cable/remote to minimize the camera shake. 6. Set the focus mode on the lens to manual, and set the focus ring to infinity. Thus, avoiding the "focus hunting" in auto focus mode. 7. Try both telephoto and wide-angle lenses, use telephoto will isolate a single or a cluster of fireworks, use wide-angle to include the cityscape or other interesting background.
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