..----

Index

A Animal sacrifices and soap origins. 3 Absolute pressure, 300-301 Anionic surfac£ants, 154-158. See also Ace Detersivo Marsiglia, 5 Surfactams Acid value (AV), 381,399--401,448 Annual Book ofASTM Stantidrds, 399 Acne dererrems as additives, 148 Anti-acne compounds as additives, 148 Additive-base interaccions in soap cleansing Anri-irritams as additives, 148 syscems, 135-139 Anribacterial/ingredient/deodoran rlmois tu rizing Additives soaps (1994-2009) and-acne compounds, 148 history anci-i rriranrs, 148 Dove (2001-2008), 56 antimicrobial compounds. 147 Fa (2002-2008), 57 CTFA Cosmetic Handbook, 143 Ivory (2004-2008), 58-59 dermabrasive/exfoliaring agents, 144, 146 Ivory Moiscure Care (1997), 52 drug componentS, J46 Lever 2000 (2000-2009), 55 emollienrs, 144-145 Lifebuoy (2003-2008), 58 humectants/moisturizers, 144, 146 Lux (2000), 53-54 miscellaneous, 149-150 Oil of Olay (1994-2008), 49-50 occlusive agents, 144, 147 Palmolive Bars (1999-2008), 50-51 OTe acrive ingredienrs. 146 Pears (2004-2008), 58 secondary surfacrants, 148-149 Safeguard (I 999-2008), 52 syndel bars and, 170-171 Antimicrobial compounds as addicives, 147 Adverrising, 34. See also Marketing AOCS Official Test Methods, 399-400 Alcoholic saponificarion color, 405 APHA color scale, 448 Alfa-Laval dryer, 268 Ariel, 21 Alkali-free cleansing bars. See Syndel bars Armour & Company (1867), 2\-22 Alkyl polyglucosides (APG) and foaming, 168 Armour Soap Works, \1 14Alphaber--Pre(cy picwres and truism about Artow Borax Soap, 16 children's friend Wool Soap", 15-16 Art in markering/advertising, 5-8, 28,34, 72 Amalgamator with open-arm sigma blades, bar Ash and glycerine, 394 soap finishing and, 308-309 Assay ofglycerine, 394 American Family brand, 21, 76-77 Atlanric and Pacific (1969) Amphor~ric surfacrants, 154-155, 160-161. See history. 46 also Surfacranrs manufacrure of, 350 Andrew Jergens Company (I 880), 22, 30 Acmospheric systems and semi-boiled soap Angled bar soap scamping, 373 barch process of, 252-~253

• 457 • • L. Spitz compared with pressurized system, 260 CAM soap caroner infeed/transfer systems, continuous process of, 254 341 semi-continuous process of, 253-254 carton blank terminology, 345 Autoclaves and semi-boiled soap, 254-255 canon styles, 346 Automation of plants, 290-292 definitions/conversion factors, 346 Ooboy IL3 three belt contact feeder, 342 B Ooboy IL4 four belt contact feeder, 342 Bar hardness, 427-430 general information, 337 Bar smear/slough, 170 Guerze 1OOOHS horizontal Aow wrapper, Bar soap finishing 341 amalgamator with open-arm sigma blades and, soap cartoners, 345 308-309 soap wrappers, 344 chiller sizing, 331 styles, 337 cooling units, 331 plodders cutters, 323-326 extrusion group, 315-316 direct noncontact transfers for canonerl fiinishing line, 336-337 wrapper interface Mazwni LB multi refining plodder (MRP), Binacchi direct product transfer (OPT) 319,321 system, 328 packaged water chillers, 331-332 Aashstamping presses, 330 refining/pelletizing group, 315-316 Mazwni LB direct transfer (OTS) system, SAS Transavon Duplex Vacuum Plodder, 328,343-344 322-323 finishing line types/selection, 333-337 short-/long-LclO-ratio, 319 history, 61, 66 types, 314 low-temperature glycol chillers, 331,333 worms, 317-320 mixers presses amalgamator with open-arm sigma blades, Aashstamping presses, 327 308-309 soap shapes, 326 double-arm mixers with sigma blades, processing steps for, 303-308 309-310 roll mills, 311-313, 331-332 mixer-kneaders, 309-310 temperature control units, 332-333 mottled laundry soap manufacturing system, Barometric condensers, 285 374 Barrat, Thomas J., 7-8 packaging Bathing as religious/cleanliness activity, 2-3 ACMA 330 soap canoner with YT/YV Beauty soaps. See Purity/beauty/health soaps infeeds, 340 (I 872-1947) ACMA 7250/7350 soap wrappers, 339 Beecham Group, 6 ACMA 770 soap canoner with TH non­ BHT chromotographic analysis and, 413 contact infeedltransfer, 340 Binacchi "CHBS" process, 244-245, 256-259 ACMA 771 TH-non-contact soap infeed/ Binacchi "CSFA" process, 244-245 transfer, 339 Binacchi "CSWE-3" system, 237-238, 241, 243 ACMA rotary infeedltransfer systems, 338 Binacchi direct product transfer (OPT) system, ACMA TH-non-contact soap infeed/ 328 transfer, 338 Binacchi SOE dryer system, 281-282 Binacchi systems, 343-344 Binders, syndet bars and, 169 Biofuels, 383, 393

458 Soap Manufacturing Technology.

B.J. Johnson Soap Company, 34 Caustic soda Bleachability, 382 characteristics/specifications/analysis of, 390 Blumenschien, Mary Green, 36 markets/prices and, 391 Boiling. See Kettle saponification production/sources/users of, 388-390 Borit, 2 requirement calculations, 437-438, 441 Brooks, Benjamin, 31 saponification and, 224 Bubbles (Millais), 8 transport/storage/handling of, 392 Buerger nomenclature for solid soap phases, 118, Cavity Transfer Mixer, 198-199 194 Centrifugal pump metering system, 227-228 Bulk of lye, 248 Centrifuged lye, 248 Bumetrizole as additive, 149 Certified colorants, 139, 142 A Busy Day (Humphrey), 28 Chardin, Jean Simeon, 78 Buteth-3 as additive, 149 Charles H. Geilfus & Company, 22 Chase, Helen, 39 C Chelating agents, chromotographic analysis and, Calculations 412-413 alkalinity/acidity adjustments, 444-447 Chemistry of soap structures. See also Physical caustic soda requirements, 437-438, 441 characteristics ofsoap raw materials FA blend molecular weight adjustment, AOCS Official Test Methods, 399-400 442-443 basic, 83-84 FA blends, 441 chromotographic analysis FA neutralization products, 442 BHT by capillary GC, 413 fat blend, 437 chelating agents by HPLC, 412-413 kettle saponification drivatized FA analysis by capillary GC, 412 finishing/fitting kettle, 219-220 drivatized FA analysis by HPLC, 411 fluctuating fat ratios, 217 FFA analysis by HPLC, 411-412 kettle settling, 218-219 glycerine content by HPLC, 412 loading kettle, 214-217 triclocarban/triclosan by HPLC, 412 primary soap making routes, 437 triglyceride analysis by HPLC, 410 saponification products - quantities, 438-440 continuous saponification and, 228-230, total fatty matter (TFM), 440 233-234 Calorimetry, 127-128 and effect of trans isomers on FA/soap Camay (1926) properties, 402-403 history, 38-39 FAs,437 Caress (1972-2009) glycerides and, 84-85 history, 47 history, 223 ingredient label compositions of, 173 iodine value (IV), 401-402 Casely, Robert E., 40 minor ingredients Cashmere Bouquet (1872), 24-26 anhydrous-soap content, 407 Cast-melt process and transparency, 200 chlorides, 408-409 Cast transparent bars, 131 FFA/free alkalinity, 409 Cast transparentltranslucent bars, 170 free-glycerine content, 408 Castill~, Spain and soap making, 3 moisture content, 407 Cataphil, ingredient label compositions of, 174 triclocarbanltriclosan by UV absorbance, Cationic surfactants, 154-155. See also 409-411 Surfactants molecular structure and, 115-116

459 • L. Spitz

mush/cracking history, 48 formulation implications, 108-112 manufacture of: 350 relationship, 93 Coates, F. Graham, 36 structural implicarions, 103-108 Coconut oil (CNO), 84, 224, 378, 437, structure weakness, 98-103 451-453 oleate:laurate eutecric mixrure and, 85-87 Colbert, Jean Batiste, 4 performance models Colgare & Company maero model, 87-89 Cashmere Bouquet (1872) of, 24-25 molecular model, 89-92 Colgare Palmolive Company (1806),17-21 saponification value (SV), 401 Global Handwashing Day and, 33 soap/water inreracrions, 92-93 history, 60 srrucrure weakness Colgate clock, 19-21 consequences, 98-103 Colgate, William, 17 crystal oriencation during plodding, 95-96, Color 112-l14 alcoholic saponification color. 405 overall effeers, 97-98 analysis by colorimeter, 404 pressure effeers during plodding, 94-95 analysis by H'unrer reAectance measurement, strucrure fundamentals. 93-94 413-414 strucrure visualizarion in plodder. 96--97 analysis by phoromerric measurement, 404 syndet bars and, 162-167 color scale conversions, 405-406 titer and, 402 commercially used scales, 448 and tram isomer measurement. 403 direct bleach tesc and, 405 transparent/rranslucenr soaps and. 191-195 evaluation of raw marerials, 404 triglyceride oil structure, 379-380 Farry marrer and, 381 triglycerides, 437 Hunter reAectance measuremenr and, Cherry Ripe (Millais), 8 413-414 Chevreul, Michel Eugene, 4 refined/bleached,404-405 Chicago Family, 13 saponificarion color of FAs, 405 C, A Child, World (Millais), 8 scale conversions of: 405-406 Chill rollslflakers, 268 visual color comparisons, 413 C, Chiller sizing, bar soap finishing and, 331 Coloranrs Chlorate and caustic soda, 390 caregories of, 139-141 o Chloride and caustic soda, 390 certified, 139, 142 C, Chromorographic analysis natural, 143 C, BHT by capillary GC, 413 noncertifiable, 141-142 C, chelating agents by HPLC, 412-413 noncertified, 142 Cr drivatized FA analysis by capillary GC, 412 Combo bars. See also Syndet bars drivatized FA analysis by HPLC, 411 ingtedient label composirions of; 173-175 FFA analysis by HPLC, 411-412 surfactant advantage and, 153 glycerine concenr by HPLC, 412 surfactant composition in, 161 triclocarban/triclosan by HPLC, 412 Computer-controlled plants, 290-292 triglyceride analysis by HPLC, 410 Condensate temperarure, 300-301 Cn Clarette, 13 Cone, Fairfax M., 41 Cn Cleansing bar formulation, synder bars and, 159 Continuous saponification Cri Cleansing grains commercially available systems, 241-243 Cn Coast (1974-2008) continuous FA neutralization, 24l-243 Cn

460 Soap Manufacturing Technology.

defined, 247 Crurcher and semi-boiled soap, 252-254 hiswry, 223 Crystallization, 191-195. See also Chemistry or meceri ngldosing soap structures crideal metered streams, 227 CTFA Cosmetic Handbook, 143, 149-150 metering equipment, 227-228 Curd phase, 118 raw marerials, 224, 227 Curd soap, 248 neurralizarion, 240-241 Cu rris Davis Company, 31 equipmenr,243-245 Currers reacdon, 243 bar soap finishing and, 323-326 overview or, 223-226 saponificadon D chemical reaction, 228-229 Danforth, Philip, 21 critical reaC[ion factors, 230 Delta phase of molecular model, 92, 99-100 equipment, 230-232 Densiry, defined, 293 rate of reacrion, 229-230 Deodorant/skin care soaps (1948-1967). See soap washing/exrracdon also Anribacterial/ingredienr/deodoranr/ cooling and spent lye removal, 237-238 moisturizing soaps (1994-2009); Freshness/ general information, 232 deodorant/skin care soaps (1968-1993) glycerine washing efficiency, 239-240 history glycerine washing equipment. 237 Dial (1948-2008), 40-41 limit lye concentration, 233-234 Dove (1955), 44 lye and neat soap separarion, 239-240 Jergens (1951-2008), 41-42 soap grain, 233, 235 Safeguard (1963-2008),44 soap phase chemistry/diagram, 233-234 Tone (1968), 45 washing and half spent lye removal, Vel (1948-2008), 41 237-239 Zest (1952-2008), 42-43 Wigner's model, 235-236 Dermabrasive/exfoliating agents as addirives, Cooling [Ower systems 144,146 soap drying systems, 289 Derergenrs. See Laundry powder detergents Cooling units Deupree, Richard R., 38 bar soap finishing and, 331 Dial, II, 22, 60 Copco,13 Dial (1948-2008),40-41 Coumercurrents. See Keule saponification Die Frische Fa. See Fa (1968) Countway, D. L., 32 Dierhylene glycol and glycerine, 394 Coupons, in marketing/advertising, 19,76-77 Differential Scanning Calorimetry, 127-128 Cracking Direct nonconracr rransfers for cartoner/wrapper evaluation of, 422-423 interface influences on, 108-109, 112 bar soap finishing, 328, 330, 343-344 mush relationship with, 93 Discontinued soaps slfuceucal implicadons and, 103-108 history sr(ucrure weaknesses and. 98-103 Colgate, 60 Cream soaps, 150 Dial, 60 Cries oflondon (Wheatley), 5-6 Jergens, 60 Crirical micelle concentrarion (CMC), 123-126 Lever, 60 Crosfield, Joseph, 22 Proctor & Gamble, 60 Crude soap, 248 Distilled raety acid (DFA) process, 377,452-454 461 • L. Spitz

Double-arm mixers with sigma blades, bar soap glycerine washing efficiency, 239-240 Fr finishing and, 309-310 glycerine washing equipmenr, 237 Dove (I 955),44 limit lye concenrrarion. 233-234 Dove (2001-2008), 56 lye and neat soap separation, 239-240 Dove Beaucy Bar design, 162, 173, 176 soap grain, 233, 235 Dove Nurrium (2000), 351 soap phase chemisrcy/diagram, 233-234 Drefr (I933), 63-64 washing and half spem lye removal, Fr Drug components a,!i additives, 146 237-239 Fr Dcying sysrems. See Soap dcying sysrems Wigner's model, 235-236 Fr Dual cydone fines recovery sysrem, 283-284 ROC countercurrent exrracrion column, Durch Margarine Union, 23 237-239 Extrusion E barsoap finishing and, 315-316 Economics. See Markedng soap producrion and, 104-106,362-369 ba~s Edicr of Colberr, 4 translucent and, 131 Elecrrolyres and soap producrion, 102, Ill, 205-207,247,250-251 F EmolJienrs as addirives, 144-145 Fa (1968), 45, 349 Fr, Eguipmem. See also Soap dcying sysrems Fa (2002-2008), 57 concinuous saponificacion, 230-232 Fairbank, Nathaniel Kellogg, 13 G glycerine washing equipmem, 226, 237 Faicy Soap, 13-15 G: condnuous saponificadon and, 237 Fatcy acids (FA) G: glycerine washing, 237 calculations for blends, 441 G: neurralizarion, 240-241 chromorographic analysis and, 411-412 Go Erhylene propylene

Free farty acids (FFA) semi-boiled soap production and, 249 chromotographic analysis and, 411--412 ttansporr/srorage/handling of, 395-396 defined, 449 Glycerol and soap production, 102, 110 molecular performance model and, 91-92 Gold Dust Twins, 13, 15 soap structure and. 89 Gold Dust Washing/Scouring Powder, 13-15 superfatting and, 111, 129-130 Good New, Bible, 2 Free glycerine, defined, 449 Grain, 233, 235, 247 Fremy, Edmond, 61 Graining efficiency, 206 Freshness/deodoranr/skin care soaps (1968-1993) Gross, Henry, 31 hiswry Gross, Sydney, 31 Atlantic and Pacific (1969), 46 Gump, William, 40 Caress (1972-2009), 47 Coasr (1974-2008),48 H Fa (1968), 45 Half spenr lye, 237-239, 248 Irish Spring (1972-2008), 46 Handcrafred attisan/specialty soaps, 60-61 Lever 2000 (1987), 49 Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild (HSMG), 352 Pure & Natural (1985-2008), 48 Hardness ofsoap bar, 427--430 Frosch and Kligman roxicity ladder, 177 Harwotth, W. T., 22 Health soaps. See Purity/beauty/health soaps G (1872-1947) Gain, 21 Healy, Tim, 76 Gamble, James, 21 Heat rransfer rate, 299-300 Gardner color scale, 448 Heavy metals and glycerine, 394 Geilfus, Charles H., 22 Heavyhransirional metals and causdc soda, 390 Gibbs' Phase Rule, 125 Heckler & Company, 15 The Gillerre Company Hemoglobin denamradon (haemolysis) tesc for hisrory,21 mildness, 178 Givaduan-Delawaana, Inc., 40 Henkel & Cie, 61 Global Handwa,hing Day, 33 Herbal exttacts as additives, 149-150 Global Public-Private Partnership for Hexagonal liquid crystal phase, 120-122, 124 Handwashing with Soap (PPPHW), 33 "Hints ro InrendingAdvettisers" (Smith), 71 Global use Hi,toria Natura/i, (Pliny the Elder), 3 ofcaustic soda, 391 Hiswry of soaps/detergenrs of glycerine, 394-395 animal sacrifices and, 3 syndet bars and, 183-185 antibacterial/ingredienddeodorancl of rriglyceride fatry matter, 382-384 moisturizing soaps (1994-2009) Glossary, 448--451 Dove (2001-2008), 56 Glycerides, soap srructure and, 83-85 Fa (2002-2008), 57 Glycerine Ivory (2004-2008), 58-59 characteristics/specificadons/analysis of, 394 Ivory Moisture Care (1997), 52 chromorographic analysis and, 412 Lever 2000 (2000-2009), 55 defi=i,449 Lifebuoy (2003-2008), 58 fats/oils/FA specificadons, 451--452 Lux (2000), 53-54 markers/prices and, 394-395 Oil ofOtay (1994-2008), 49-50 production/sources/users, 392-393 Palmolive Bars (1999-2008), 50-51 quanriry calculations, 439--440 Pears (2004-2008), 58 463 • L. Spill

Safeguard (1999-2008), 52 soap powders, 61, 67 (C bar soap caregories and, 24 Tide (1946), 64-65,64-65 (C colonial America and, 5 unil dosing produc[s, 69 (C currenr brands laundry washing products, 61 I­ Andrew Jergens Company (1880), 22 markeling Armour & Company (1867), 21-22 coupons, 76-77 I Colgare Palmolive Company (]806), 17-21 Ivory stamp club, 76 I Lever Brothers Company (1884), 22-23 magazines, 71-72 Pears (1789), 7-10 premiums, 75 II Procter & Gamble Company (1837), 21 product booklers, 75-76 II Yardley (1770), 5-7 radio and soap operas, 72-74 deodoranr/skin care soaps (1948-1967) selling of soap, 71 II Dial (1948-2008), 40-41 slogans/jingles, 77-78 Dove (1955), 44 soap poslers, 75 Jergens (1951-2008), 41-42 soap sculpting, 76 Safeguard (1963-2008), 44 relevision ilnd soap operas, 74 I, Tone (1968), 45 trade/trading cards, 74 Vel (1948-2008), 41 rrolly car signs, 75 Zesr (1952-2008), 42-43 Mounr Sapo and, 223 discominued soaps obsolete brands Colgate, 60 J. S. Kirk & Company (Chicago 1859), Dial, 60 10-13 Jergens, 60 N. K. Fairbank Company (Chicago 1865), Lever, 60 13-15 Proctor & Gamble, 60 Olher companies, 17 firs[ industrial production, 4 Swift & Company (Chicago 1892), 15-16 freshness/deodoram/skin care soaps plagues and Romans, 3 (1968-1993) purity/beaury/health soaps (1872-1947) Arlanric and Pacific (1969), 46 Camay (1926). 38-39 Caress (1972-2009), 47 Cashmere Bouquer (1872), 24-26 Coast (1974-2008), 48 Ivory (1879), 26-30 Fa (1968), 45 Jergens (1893), 30 Irish Spring (1972-2008), 46 Jergens (1947-2005), 39 Lever 2000 (1987), 49 Lifebuoy (1887), 31-33 Pure & Narural (1985-2008), 48 Lux (1925), 36-38 handcrafted acrisan/specialty soaps, 60-61, Palmolive (1898), 34-36 60-61 Woodbury (1897), 33 handcrafled arrisn/specialry soaps, 60-61, Woodbury (1899), 36 60-61 soap making in Marseilles, France, 3-5 laundry powder delergenrs Sumerian references to soap (2500 BCE), 1-2 barsoaps, 61,66 lransparem/rranslucem soaps and, 191 Oren (1933), 63-64, 63--G4 Hollow disc rype filtration pumps, 274 Fewa (1932), 63 Hopkins, Samucl, 5 liquid detergenrs, 69-70 HOl-air cabinel dryers. 267 Peesil (1907), 61-62, 61-62 HOl-air spray rowers, 267 powder detergenrs, 68 Hudson, R. S., 22

464 Soap Manufacturing Technology •

Humeccants/moismrizers as addidves, 144, 146 .Journal ofthe Amnican Oil Chemists' Society, 399 Humphrey, Maude, 28 Jovan,6 Humer opaciry mea.suremem, 415 Humer refle([ance measuremem, 413-414 K Kappa phase of molecular model, 90, 92, 98-100 I cransparent/translucenr soaps and, 196 /fn Forever Blowing Bubbles (Kenbrovin & Kellerte, John William, 78-79 Kellerre), 78-79 Kenbrovin, Jaan, 78-79 IndireCl cooling wacer syscem (lCS), 286 Kectle saponificacion Ingredienc soaps. See Ancibacteriallingredienrl ketcle soap boiling deodorant/moisturizing soaps (1994-2009) countercurrent/full boil, 206--207, International Maritime Organiz.ation (IMO), 213-214 384 finishing/fitting kenle, 212-213 Invened-funnel method of (acher evaluation, finishing/fitting ketrle (mathemarics), 419-420 219-220 Iodine value (IV), 84, 110,381 Auccu3ting fat racios (mathemadcs), 217 calculation in 80120 tallow/coconut oil blend, graining/brine addition, 209-210 437 kertle settling (mathematics), 218-219 defined, 450 kettle washing, 211-212 fats/oils/FA specifications, 451-452 loading kettle, 207-208 soap analysis and, 401-402 loading kettle (mathematics), 214-217 Itish Spring (1972-2008) Iyeless, 207 history, 46 oil finish, 207 manufacture of, 350 semi boiled, 207 Isorropicsoap solution, 123-128 seuling/spent lye removal, 210-211 Ivorecce, 13 seulinglwash lye removal, 212 Ivory (I 879), 26--30 variations, 213 Ivory (2004-2008), 58-59 phase diagram theory and, 205-207 Ivory Moisture Care (1997), 52 secondary water considerarions of, 213 Ivory scamp c1uh, 76 rerminology/properties ot; 203-205 Kenle soap boiling. See Kettle saponil1cation J Kimball, Alonso, 36 J. S. Kirk & Company (Chicago 1859),10-13, Kirk, J, S., 11 2], 76--77 Kirk's brands. See j, S, Kirk & Company Jergens, 60 (Chicago 1859) Jergens (1893), 30 Knighr, John, 22 Jergens (1947·2005), 39 Krafft temperarure, 86, 125-126 Jergens (1951·2008), 41-42 Jergens, Andrew, 22, 33, 36 L John H. Woodbury Dermatolo!,;icallnstitute, 33 Lamellar liquid crystal phase, 119-122 John Hopkins University School of Public Lanasan, ingredienr label composicions of, 175 Health, ?3 Larem heat of vaporh.arion, defined, 294 Johnson, Burderre, 34 Lather evaluarion, 417-420,449-450 journal a/Chromatography, 399 lathering, ofsyndet bars, 168 journal a/Liquid Chromatography, 399

465 el. Spitz

Laundry powder detetgenrs Matbleized soaps, 351, 353-359, 362-363, ~ history 366-367 bar soaps, 61, 66 Matketing Dtefi: (1933), 63--<54 caustic soda and, 391 Fewa (1932),63 glycerine and, 394--395 I liquid detetgenrs, 69-70 hisrory of soaps/detergen[s I Petsil (1907), 61-62 ,((,5-8,28,34,72 ~ powder detetgenrs, 68 coupons, 19, 76-77 soap powders, 61, 67 Ivory stamp club, 76 Tide (1946), 64--<55 magazines, 11,25-26, 29, 33, 35-36, unit dosing products, 69 71-72 Laundry soap dryers movie s[ars, 37-38 feed pumps for, 276-278 premiums, 75 filtration pumps/filters fot, 274, 276-277 product booklers, 75-76 heat exchangers for, 279-280 radio and soap opetas, 72-74 processing steps for, 272-275 selling of ~oap, 71 Laundry tablets. See Unit dosing producrs slogans/jingles, 5, 9, 33, 38, 77-78. See also Laundry wa.shing product:'; specific soap brands, i.e. Dial history of, 61 soap posters, 75 Lava Chemical Resolvent Soap, 21 soap sculpting, 76 Leglanc, Nicholas, 4 relevision and soap operas, 74 Levenhulme, Lord, 22 trade/trading catds, 74 Levet, 10, 15,60 trolly carsigns, 12,75 Lever 2000 (1987), 49 mildness and global trends, 181-185 Levet 2000 (2000-2009), 55,174 Palmolive soap and, 34 Levet Brothers Company (1884), 22-23, 73 and selling of soap, 71 Lever, William Hesketh, 22-23 triglycecide fatry matrer and, 382-384 Lifebuoy (1887), 31-33 Marseilles, Ftance and soap making, 3-5, 51 Lifebuoy (2003·2008), 58 Mascot, 13 Light and transpatency of soap, 191-192 Material balances, 294-298 Limit lye concenrtation (LLC), 247 Mathematics. See Calculations Liquid crystalline soap, 118-119, 118-124 Maxine Elliott Complexion Soap, 16 Liquid deretgenrs, 69-70 Maybelline Company, 6 Lobe pumps, 277-278 Mazwni COreal Cosmetics, 6 Mazzoni LB diteCt transfer (DTS) system, Lovibond color scale, 448 328,343-344 Lux (I925), 36-38 Mazwni LB multitefining plodder (MRP), Lux (2000), 53-54, 73-74 319,321 Lye. See Spenr lye; Washing lye Mazwni LB "SCNT" system, 230, 232, 237, Lyocropic phases ofliquid crystatline soap, 242-243,353 118-124 Mazzoni LB SCf-SSCf process, 243--244, 256-259 M McElroy, Neil Mosley, 38 Macro model of soap structure, 87-89 Melting poinr Magazines in marketing/advertising, 11, 25-26, defined, 450 29,33,35-36,71-72 fats/oils/FA specifications, 451-452 466 Soap Manufacturing Technology.

Metering/dosing and saponification solid/solid systems fot sttiped soaps, 362, crirical metered srreams and, 227 364-369 metering equipment and, 227-228 solid/solid systems fat two-tone soaps, 360, raw matetials and, 224, 227 362, 368-369 Miag "Double Expansion Drying" system, 268 scamping oprions. 373 Micelles, 123-126 rypes of, 351-353 Mildness concept, 425 Mush compatisons,180-183 annealing and, 102 global marketing ttends and, 181-185 bar moisrure conrene and, 102-103 red blood cell (RBC) test, 178-180 defined, 98 skin barrier destruction (SBD) test, 178, 180 as delta phase, 100 soap chambet test (SCT), 176--177 evaluarion of, 422 syndet bars and, 171-178 formulation implications, 108-112 syndet bars and the future, 186 liquid phase of, 99-100 in vivolin virro test, 177-178 mush/cracking relationship, 93 Zein test, 178-179, 181-182 solid phase of, 98-99 Miles, G., 417 structural implicarions, 103-108 Millais, John Everett, 8 strucrure weakness and. 98-103 Minerals and soap producrion. 89 Musk Oil, 5-6 Mixer-kneaders, bar soap finishing and, 308-310 Moisture conrent, defined, 450 N Moisture. impurities, and unsaponifiables N. K. Fairbank Company (Chicago 1865), 10, (MIU), 381, 406--407 13-15 Moisturizing soaps. See Antibacrerial/ingredient/ Narural coloran rs, 143 deodorant/moisturizing soaps (1994-2009) Neat soap, 239, 248, 251, 291 Molecular model ofsoap structure, 89-92 Neca (Israel), 183 Molecular srrucrure. See Chemistry ofsoap Neutralization structures calculations for FA products of, 442 Molecular weight adjustments of FA blends, continuous saponification 442-443 equipment, 243-245 Mono screw pumps, 277-278 reacrion, 243 Mottled laundry bar soaps, 374 defined, 247 Movle stars, in markering/advertising. 37-38 neat soap and, 248 Mucha, AJphonse, 22 semi-boiled soap production and, 260-264 Multicolored/mulricomponent soap producrion Nivea Milk Bar, 175 handcrafted arrlsan soaps, 352 Non-ionic surfactants, 154-155, 16G-161. See history/general information, 349-351 also Surfactams manufacruring systems/methods, 353 Non-occlusive moisturizers, syndet bars and, 172 mottled laundry soap manufacturing system, Noncerrifiable colorams, 141-142 374 Noncerrified colorants, 142 recycling methods and, 369-372 Nut oils and soap production, 85, 88, 91,110 solid/liquid systems for, 353-358 solM/solid co-extrusion systems for, 362-369 solid/solid systems for marbleized soaps, 359, o 362-363,366--367 Occlusive agents as additives, 144, 147, 172 solid/solid systems for speckled soaps, 361 Octagon products, 19

467 el. Spitz

Odor, 38], 425-426. See also Frangrances color by colorimerer, 404 Official Methods and Recommended Practices ofthe color by Hunter reflectance measuremenr, American Oil Chemists'Society, 399 413-414 Oil bleaching, 385-388 color by photomerric measurement, 404 Oil finish (OF) kettle, 211-213,219-220 coJor evaluation of raw materials, 404 Oil of Olay (1994-2008) color, refinedlbleached, 404-405 history, 21, 49-50 color scale conversions, 405-406 ingrediem label compositions of, 174 direct bleach test, 405 surfactams and, 164 FFA content, 405-406 Oils and soap ptoduction, 84-85, 115-116, 150. foreign particulate matter. 415 See also Soap phase structure/behavior insoluble impurities. 406 Oleate:laurare eutecric mixtllre, 85-87 MIU content, 406-407 Omega phase of molecular model, 90 moistllre content, 406 One Soap for the Whole Family, 16 saponification color ofFAs, 405 Operaring vacuum (absolute pressure), 300-301 rranslucency by Humer opacity measurement, OTe active ingrediems as additives, 146 415 Oxydol,21 unsaponifiable marrer, 407 visual color comparisons. 413 p Physical characteristics of soap raw marerials. See Palm kernel oil (PKO), 84-85, 224, 378, 383, Raw marerials for soap making 451-453 Pierce, Charles S., 34 Palm oils (PO), 85, 378-379, 384, 451-453 Piggly Wiggly, 71 Palmolive (1898), 34-36 Pink Palace Museum of Arrs and industry Palmolive Bars (1999-2008), 50--51 (Memphis),71 Palmolive Building, 18-19 Plane automation, 290-292 Parkson Atmospheric Dryer, 268 Plasticizers/binders, synder bars, 169 Pears (1789), 7-10, 200 Plate-and-frame heat exchangers (PAF), 279-280 Pears (2004-2008) Pliny the Elder, 3 history, 58 Plodders P Pears, Andrew. 7 bar soap finishing P Pears'Annuals,8 extrusion group, 315-316 P Pears' Shilling Cyclopaedia, 9 Mazzoni LB multirefining plodder (MRP), P Peet Brorhers, 71 319,321 p Penetration value, 450 packaged water chillers, 331-332 Perfume and soap production, 89,110--11], 143 refining/pelletizing group, 315-316 p Persil (1907), 61-<52 SAS Transavon Duplex Vacuum Plodder, p pH 322-323 p calculations for alkalinity/acidity adjustmenrs, short-/long-Le/D-ratio, 319 444-447 rypes, 314 casr transparenr!uanslucenr bars and, 170 worms, 317-320 F soaps afrer manufacturing and, 154 Plodding and soap production soaps during manufacruring and, 153 crystal orientation during, 95-96 Phase diagram theory of kerde saponificarion, pressure effects during, 94-95 205-207 soap structures in plodder, 96-97 Physical characteristics Polyalkylene glycol and bi nding, 169 alcoholic saponification color, 405 Positive displacemenr metering system, 227-228 468 Soap ManufacTUring Technology.

Posters in markedng/advenising, 75 Lifebuoy (I 887), 31-33 Powder detergems, his[Ory, 68 Lux (I 925), 36-38 Premiums in markedng/adverrising, 75 Palmolive (I 898),34-36 Presses, bar soap finishing and, 326-327 soap campaigns, 32-33 Pressll rized sysrems and semi-boiled soap Woodbury (I 897),33 combinarion (integrated) saponification! Woodbury (I 899), 36 drying plants and, 256, 258-259 compared wirh atmospheric sysrem, 260 Q high shear mixer/reac(Or of, 255-256 Quick Naphtha Chips, 16 semiconcenrrared saponificarion systems and, 256-257 sdrred vessel reacror (auroclave) of: 254-255 R Pride Cleanser, 16 Rackham, A"hur, 25 Pride Soap, 16 Radio and soap operas in marketing/advertising, Pride Washing Powder, 15-16 72-74 Primary base, defi ned, 351 Rate ofwe.r (ROW), 421-422 Processing of synder bats, 159-160 Raw materials for soap making Procrer & Gamble Company caustic soda Ace Detersivo Marsiglia, 5 characrerisrics/spedficarions/analysis. 390 Gu,bal Handwashing Day and, 33 markers/ prices, 391 history, 6, II production/sources/users, 388-390 discominued soaps, 60 transporr/s(Orage/handling, 392 Oxydol$ Own Ma Perkins, 73-74 glycerine The Songs ofthe City, 74 characterisrics/specifications/analysis, 394 mildness and, 183 markets/prices, 394-395 Proner & Gamble Company (1837), 21 production/sources/users, 392-393 Richardson-Vick and, 50 transporr/storage/handling, 395-396 sllrfa.crams and, 164 physical characterisrics Procter, Cooper, 38 alcoholic saponification color. 405 Procter, Harley, 26-27 color by colorimeter, 404 Procter, William, 21 color by Hunrer reRectance measuremem, Product booklets in marketing/advertising, 413-414 75-76 color by phorometric measuremem, 404 Production. See Chemisrry of soap srrucnnes; color evaluadon of raw materials, 404 Ploddi ng and soap production color, refined/bleached, 404-405 Pummo Glycerine Pumice Soap, 13 color scale conversions, 405-406 Pumps, 287. See also Laundry soap dryers direcr bleach test, 405 Pure & Natural (I 985-2008) FFA conrenr, 405-406 history, 48 foreign particulate marter, 415 Puriry/beaury/health soaps (I 872-1947) insoluble impurities. 406 history MIU contenr. 407 Camay (1926), 38-39 moisture coment, 406 CaVtmere Bouquet (1872), 24-26 saponificarion color of FAs, 405 Ivory (1879), 26-30 translucency by Hunter opacity Jergens (1893), 30 measuremenr, 415 Jergens (I 947-2005),39 unsaponifiable marrero 407

469 el. Spjtz

visual color comparisons, 413 Sculpting in markering/advertising, 76 triglyceride fatry matter Sebamed, 175 characteristics/specifications/analysis, Secondary base. defined, 351 379-382 Secondary surfactants as addi (ives. 148-149 as largest constituent, 377 SELA drying plants. 268-269 markets/prices. 382-384 Sela GmbH--KVN Plant. 243 oil bleaching. 385-388 Semi-boiled soap producrion sources/grades/users. 378-379 atmospheric systems transport/storage/handling. 384-385 batch process. 252-253 RDC countercurrent extraction column, compared with pre..~urized system, 260 237-239 continuous process, 254 Recycling methods. multicolored/ semi-continuous process, 253-254 multicomponent soap production and, continuous saponification plant use 369-372 main components, 260-261 Red blood cell (RBC) test for mildness. 178-180 neutralizer route - atmospheric system, Refining/pelletizing group. bar soap finishing 261-264 and. 315-316 reactor route - pressurized system, 261-262 Religious influence on cleanliness/soap, 2-3 crutcher-mixer/reactor step, 252 Rheological characterization. 430-433, 430-433 definitions/calculations, 264-266 Richardson-Vick, 49-50 general informadon. 249-251 Rider. Ed. 26 pressurized systems Roll mills. bar soap finishing and, 311-313, combination (integrated) saponification/ 331-332 drying plants. 256, 258-259 Ross, J.. 417 compared with atmospheric system, 260 Ross-Miles foam test, 417 high shear mixer/reacror, 255-256 semiconcemrated saponification systems, S 256-257 Safeguard (1963-2008). 44 stirred vessel reactor (autoclave). 254-255 Safeguard (1999-2008), 52 Sensible heat, defined, 294 Santa Claus, 13 Shell-and-tube heat exchangers, 279-280 Saponification, 438-439. See also Condnuous Short-/long-LdD-ratio, 319 saponification; Continuous saponification; Silver Dust. 13 Kettle saponification; Semi-boiled soap Single cyclone fines recovery system, 284 production Sinking Ivory promotion, 30 Saponification color of FAs, 405 SITA Foam Tester RZOOO, 418 Saponification value (SV), 381, 401, 450 Skin barrier destrucdon (SBD) test for mildness. calculation in 80/20 callow/coconut oil blend, 178. 180 437 Skin care soaps. See Deodorant/skin care soaps fats/oils/FA specifications. 451-452 (1948-1967); Freshness/deodorant/skin care SAS Transavon Duplex Vacuum Plodder. soaps (1968-1993) 322-323 Slogans/jingles in marketingladverdsing, 5, 9, 33. Satina, 175 38.77-78. See also ,pecific 'oap brand.<, i.e. Dial Saturared farry acids, soap structure and, 83-84 Smith, Thomas, 71 Saunders, Clarence, 71 Snow Boy Washing Powder, 16 Savon De Marseille, 4 Soap Bubble< (Chardin). 78 Savona, Italy and soap making. 3 Soap calculations. See Calculations 470 Soap Manufacturing Technology.

Soap chamber test (SCT) for mildness. 176-177 vacuum chambers. 282-283 Soap cleansing systems vacuum formarion systems additive-base inreracrions in. 135-139 pumps, 287 additives steam jet ejecrors (boosters). 287 and-acne compounds. 148 vacuum producing systems anri-irrirams. 148 baromerric condensers. 285 antimicrobial compounds. 147 indirect cooling water system (I CS). 286 CTFA COIm«;c Handbook. 143 surface condensers. 285 dermabrasive/exfoliating agents, 144. 146 vapor condensation equipment. 284-285 drug components. 146 vacuum spray drying. 267 emollients, 144-145 vapor-liquid separacors. 279-282 humectants/moisturizers, 144, 146 Soap fines recovery system. 283-284 miscellaneous, 149-150 Soap finishing. 5.. Bas soap finishing occlusive agents, 144, 147 Soap-less soaps. 5.. Syndet bars OTC active ingredients. 146 Soap making raw marerials. Su Raw marerials for secondary surfuctants. 148-149 soap making colorams Soap operas. 74 categories of. 139-141 Soap phase srrucrure/behavior certified, 139. 142 isorropic soap soludon, 123-128 natural, 143 liquid crysralline soap noncertifiable.141-142 defined, 118-119 noncertified. 142 lyotropic phases, 118-124 fragrances, 143 thermotropiC phases, 118-119 overview, 135 molecular structure and, 115-1 J6 Soap drying systems solid soap and. 115. 117-118 chill rolls/Rakers, 268 superfutting and, 129-130 cooling (Ower systems, 289 rransparem/rranslucem soaps and, 131 definitionslterminology. 293-294, 296-297 Soap powders, 61, 67 expansion dryers, 268-269 Soap shapes, 326 heat transfer rate for, 299-300 . Soap srTUcrure. Su also Chemisrry of soap hot-air cabinet dryers, 267 srrucrures; Soap phase srrucrure/behavior hot-air spray cowers. 267 macro performance model. 87-89 laundry soap dryers molecular performance model, 89-92 feed pumps. 276-278 Sodium benzotriawly1 sullOn.te as additive. 149 filtration pumps/filters. 274. 276-277 Sodium burylpheno1 as additive, 148 heat exchangers. 279-280 Sodium chloride, defined. 450 processing steps. 272-275 Sodium-distilled. copped cocoyl isethionate material balances. 294-295, 297-298 (STCI). 163 operating vacuum (absolute pressure)/ Sodium hydroxide and caustic soda, 390 condensate temperature and, 300-301 Solid/liquid systems for multicolored/ plant aucomation. 290-292 multicomponem soap production. 353-358 soap fines recovery system. 283-284 Solid phase micro-extraction (SPME), fragrance solid/liquid additive systems. 290 evaluation and, 425-426 s(~am consumption by, 288 Solid soap. 115. I 17-118 and TFM/moiscure content of soaps, 300-301 Solid/solid co-extrusion systems. 362-369 coilet soap dryers. 268-272

471 el. Spitz Solid/solid sysrems for marbleized soaps, 359, Surface condensers, 285 T 362-363,366-367 Surfactants Talc, Solid/solid syS[ems for speckled soaps, 361 cleansing/rinsing efficiency and, 166-167 Talk Solid/solid systems for striped soaps, 362, imponance of, 153 ar 364-369 sodium-distilled, ropped cocoyl isethionate Solid/solid systems for two-tone soaps, 360, 362, (STCI) and, 163 a 368-369 synder bars and, 154-158, 160-162 fa Solubiliry, synder bars and, 170-171 Swift & Company (Chicago 1892), 11, 15-16 so Solvay, Ernest, 4 Swifr, Gusravus F., 15 sp Soybean oil, 378, 383 Swifr's Cleanser, 16 Tel" Specialry soaps. See Handcrafted artisan/specialty Synder bars in soaps appearance-improving addirives, 170-171 Teml Specific graviry, defined, 293 cast transparenrlrranslucenr bars, 170 an Specific hear (Cp), defined, 294 cleansing bar formulation, 159 Specifications for fa"/oils/FA c1eansinglrinsing efficiency and, 166-167 co distilled FA blend composi,;ons, 453 Dove Beaury Bar design and, 176 cc disrilled FAs for soap blends, 452 fillers and, 171 . di disrilled FAs for soaps, 452 foaming/larhering of, 168 faJ disrilled rallow/vegerable FA blends formulation of, 162-167 KI composirions, 454 ingredienr label composirions of, 173-175 m FA composirion of vegerable oil blends, 454 mildness concepr and, 176-178 m fats/oils composirions, 453 mildness evaluation methods sp fa"/oils/FA specificarions, 451 comparisons, 180-183 so soap bases superfarred with distiJJed soap fatry. global trends of mild soaps, 181-185 th 454 red blood cell (RBC) resr, 179-180 Then Speckled soaps, 352, 361 skin barrier desrruc,;on (SBD) resr, 178, Then Spenrlye, 224, 234, 237-238, 237-238,248 180 Tide Sramping options. multicolored/multicomponent soap chamber reS[ (SCT), 176-177 Titer soap producrion, 373 in vivolin vitro test, 177-178 ca Standard bar soap sramping, 373 Zein reS[, 178,181-182 Sream consumption by soap drying systems, 288 mildness formulations in the future, 186 de Sream jet ejectors (boosters), 287 mildness improvers/skin condirionsers/ fal Sreichen, Edward, 33, 36 moisturizers and, 171-175 Toile Srorer, Doug, 76 performance-improving addirives, 170-171 Tom. Srriped soaps, 351, 362, 364-369 plasricizers/binders and, 169 Tone Sudsing reS[, 418-419 processing of, 159-160 Total Sunbrite Cleanser. 16 raw materials/bases of, 165 Total Sunlight Almanac, 23 soap pH and, 154 ca. Sunlight Flakes, 36 surfactant composirion in. 161 de Sunlight label, 23 su rfactants an Sunlight Year Book, 23 advanrage, 153 po Sunny Monday Laundry Soap, 13 anionic surfactanrs, 155 ro Superfarring general informarion, 160-162 Total FFA and, 111 synrhesis, 156-158 249 soap phase structure/behaviot and. 129-130 types of surfactanrs, 154-155 Toxic synder ba" and, 171-172 Trade 472 Soap Manufacturing Technology.

T Trans isomers :md FA/soap propeuies, 402--403 Talcum powder as filler, 171 Transparent/translucenct soaps Tallows and soap production Hunter opacity measuremenr and, 415 and calculations of SVlriter/IV in 80/20 Transparent/translucent soaps blend,437 casr-melt process and. 200 continuous saponification and, 224 history, 191 fa try matrer and, 378-379, 384 neat soap drying/finishing soap srructure and, 85 intensive mixing/refining, 198-200 specifications of, 451--454 vacuum sptay drying, 195-198 Television and soap operas phases/properries/characterization methods in markcring/advenising, 74 fot, 192-195 Temperawce structure and development of, 131, 191-192 and batch process of semi-boiled soap synder bars, 170 production. 252 Tributyl cirr:He as addirive, 149 condensate, 300-301 Tridocarban/(ticlosan, chromorographic analysis ctacking and, 108-109, 112 and,412 distilled FA process and, 377 Triglyceride fany mattet fats/oils/FA specifications, 451--452 cha tacteristics/spedfica dons/analysis of, Krafft temperature, 86,125-126 379-382 macro performance model and, 88 as largest constituent of soap, 377 molecular performance model and. 90, 92 markers/prices and, 382-384 spenr lye temoval and, 237 oil bleaching and, 385-388 srrucmce/mush and, 103 sources/grades/users of, 378-379 rhermorropic phase and. 118 rtansport/storage/handling of, 384-385 Thermal conducrivity (k), defined, 294 Ttiglycerides Thermotropic phase, 118 chromowgraphic analysiS and, 4] 0 Tide (I 946), 21, 64-65 soap structure and, 83-85 Tirer, 402 Trolly car signs in marketing/advertising, 12 calculation in 80120 tallow/cocOO!}t oil blend, Tubular Drying System, 268 437 Two,tone soaps, 352, 362, 368-369 defined, 45 1 fats/oils/FA specifications, 451--452 U Toilet soap dryers, 268-272 UNICEF, 33 Tom, Dick, and Harry, 13 Un ilever, 33 Tone (I 968), 45 Unit dosing productS, 69. See also Metering/ Total fatry acid (TFA), defined, 247 dosing Total fa try marrer (TFM) Unsaponified & unsaponifiable marter (U&U), calculations for, 440 451 defined, 451 Unsaturated Fouty acids, soap s[ructure and, and moisture comen[ of toiler soaps, 300-301 83-84 percenrage of, 249 U.S. Agency for Inrernational Development toiler soap dryers and, 269-270, 272-273 (USAlDj,33 Total fatry matrer (TFM) and semi,boiled soap, U.S. Cenrers for Disease Conrrol and Ptevenrion, 249 33 Toxicity ladder, 177 User panels and evaluations, 426-427 Trade/trading cards in markcring/adverrising, 74

473 • L Spitz V soap SUUClure and, 91-93 Vacuum chambers for drying systems, 282-283 water penetration and, 101-102 Vacuum farmarion systems Water content of soap pumps and, 287 hard/salr waler and lathering, 168 steam jet ejectors (boosters) and, 287 soap-co-water ratio, 109 Vacuum producing systems Water Supply and Sanilalion Collaborative barometric condensers and, 285 Council, 33 indirecr cooling water system (ICS) and, 286 Wella Company, 6 surface condensers and, 285 Wesley, John, 2 vapor condensation equipment and, 284-285 Western Soap Company, 22 Vacuum spray drying, 267 Wet bar feel, 424 Vaniry Fair Beaury Soap, 16 Wer cracking, 422--423 Vapor condensation equipment, 284-285 Whearley, Francis, 5-<5 Vapor-liquid separaror (VLS), 269-272, 279, Whitefield, George, 2 281 Wigner's model. continuous saponification and. Vapor-liquid separators, 279-282 235-236 . Vapor pressure, defined, 293 William Walrke company, 21 Vel (1948-2008), 41 Woodbury (1897), 33 VEL, ingredienr label compositions of, 173 Woodbury (1899), 36 Viscosiry, defined, 293 Woodbury, John H., 33, 36 VVF Limired, 22 Wool Soap Chips Borared, 16 Woolworth, Frank, 26 World Bank, 33 W Worms, bar soap finishing and, 317-320 Wahl Brorhers Glue Works, 22 Wrigley, William, Jr., 11 Wash mildness rests, 178 Washing, 247 Washing lye, 247 X continuous saponification X-ray parrern of soap, 127 cooling and spenr lye removal, 237-238 general informarion, 225, 232, 234 y glycerine washing efficiency, 239-240 Yardley (1770), 5-7 glycerine w~.o:;hing equipment, 237 Yardley, William, 5 limir lye concenrration, 233-234 You Dirty Boy (Focardi), 7 lye and near soap separarion, 239-240 soap grain, 233, 235 Z soap phase chemistry/diagram, 233-234 Zein test for mildness, 178-179, 181-182 washing and half spenr lye removal. Zest (1952-2008) 237-239 history, 42--43 Wigner's model, 235-236 ingredient label composirions of, 174 and half spenr lye removal, 237-239 surfacranrs and, 164 semi-boiled soap produclion and, 250 Zera phase of molecular model, 91-92, 99-100, Washing ratio, 248 196 Water and Sanitation Program. 33 Water and soap production hard/salr warer, 153

474