EXPLORING HOLMEN – NAVY CITY 01 WITHIN THE CITY 25 fantastic industries

SEe WWW.25FANTASTISKE.DK Holmen was originally a loose term for all the locations where Danish naval vessels were built, repaired, maintained and berthed. It was a city within the city where the Navy had its own laws, prison, hospitals and schools, churches and churchyards. For more than three centuries, the naval base was ’s biggest workplace. Quick to embrace new technologies, it was able to adapt to changing demands and challenges over time, leaving a historic trail to be seen and explored.

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galionsvej 03 kanonbådsvej 07 06 danneskiold-Samøes alle heibergsgade

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01 Nyboder From 1631 King Christian IV built Nyboder, the long terraces of Gammelholm is a district in the inner city, delimited by the depot and galley house, with a magnificent, 6,000 harbour houses for his sailors. Two hundred dwellings were built; each streets of and Niels Juels Gade, Holmens Kanal basin in the middle. Next to it is the royal brewery. This was of around 40 m2, consisting of a living room, tiny bedroom, and . The present residential district was established where Danish naval vessels were provisioned and armed. entrance space and a kitchen to be shared with the next-door following the concentration of the naval shipyards to Nyholm However, as the ships grew in size, space became limited, and neighbour. The original colour of the houses was white rather (now ’Holmen’) in 1859. part of the Navy’s activities were relocated to Nyholm in the than the ochre-yellow they are famous for today. 1690s. 03 Reberbane, Heibergsgade 9 06 ’King’s Gate’, Arsenaløen 02 Grødhuset’ (’Porridge eller Poultice’ A ropewalk was a narrow shed used in the old days for making rope. The technique required whole strands of material to be Holmen’s most southerly island is Arsenaløen. In 1742, con- Palace) in Rigensgade stretched out before they were twisted into rope, so the rope- struction of a large arsenal building designed by Philip de In 1668, King Frederik III had a ’gold house’ built on walks were very long. The yellow house at no. 9 Heibergsgade is Lange got underway on this man-made island. The two main Rigensgade for the alchemist Borri. After the King’s death, what remains of the Holmen Naval Base ropewalk, built in 1573. buildings are facing, across the harbour, the old part of Borri was evicted and the building converted into a naval Copenhagen and the royal palace. To mark the sight line from infirmary. But space soon became cramped so the patients 04 Church of Holmen the palace and the glory of the absolute king Kongeporten were transferred to the hospital at and in 1695, The Naval shipyard grand smithy from 1563, built by Peter (’King’s Gate’) was erected. The gate is something of a hidden the premises were taken over by a royally appointed wool de Duncker, forms the centre of the present-day Church of treasure. In the mid-1800s, Arsenaløen was connected to the manufactory. From 1719 to 1814, the premises housed the Holmen. It was built opposite the royal castle. Inside the mainland by Christianshavn, and a new main entrance, Royal Military Wool Manufactory. However, the original pre- church, the nave and chancel are placed in the former anchor Værftsbrovagten, to Holmen was established. mises burned down in 1759 and were replaced by the building smithy. But also before it was a church, the building was highly seen today and an extension of it from 1776. When the royal ornamented; for example, the Italianate gable facing present- manufactory moved out to Usserød Cloth Mill, a hospital day parliament was part of the building from 1563. Frederiksholm was re-established on the premises; this time as a garrison There are many buildings on Frederiksholm, and all of them are infirmary, known as Grødhuset. 05 05 King Christian IV’s Arsenal, used for other purposes than they were originally designed for. King Christian IV’s Arsenal on Slotsholmen is steeped in Most of the changes happened after the Navy left Holmen in history on all sides. In 1598-1604, King Christian IV built a 1993, but there are still many fine examples of Danish indu- large three-winged complex, consisting of arsenal, victual strial architecture. related sites:

Orlogsmuseet Overgaden oven Vandet 58 1468 Copenhagen K www.orlogsmuseet.dk

Nyboders Mindestuer Skt. Pauls Gade 24 1313 Copenhagen K. Open to the public on Sundays 11 am – 2 pm. www.nybodersmindestuer.dk

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07 MTB erecting hall 10 Grovsmedje (forge) The erecting hall from 1954 was originally a large covered Holmen’s long forge for small and large-scale smithing, de- two overhead cranes from the 1920s and 30s are the only workshop where MTBs (motor torpedo boats) were built and signed by the architect Ferdinand Meldahl in 1861 now houses monuments that remain of the naval shipyard. repaired. Production ceased in 1993, and today the yard has the School of Architecture of the Royal Danish Academy of been converted into fashionable flats. Fine Arts. The raised middle part was for the steam hammers. Nyholm Nyholm is the oldest part of Holmen and is still used by the 08 Cannon boat sheds 11 Kobbersmedje (copper forge) navy. Here warships were built from the 1690s to the 1920s Along the eastern shore of Frederiksholm are six black-painted This solid building from 1884 blends in well with the industrial when the yard was concentrated on Dokøen. The Naval Base cannon boat sheds from 1805-27. They housed the small complex, and its arched wrought-iron windows are typical of is open to the public from 8 am to sunset. rowing boats which were the main force of the Danish Navy the architect C.T. Andersen. Today, the copper forge building after the disastrous English Wars. Following extensive restora- is used by the Rhythmic Music Conservatory. 14 Mast crane tion in the 1990s, a number of small companies moved into This crane, or rigging sheers, dates from 1750 and was built most of the sheds. 12 Nyt Maskinværksted (new machine in wood. The brickwork is only a shell to protect the wooden structure against the elements. The crane was used for care- workshop) 09 Hovedmagasinet and Takkelloftet (store ening ships, mounting masts etc. From the top of the crane, At the farthest tip of Frederiksholm is a machine and erecting a flag was raised in daytime, and as a storm warning, a red house and rigging loft) workshop, Nyt Maskinværksted, dating from 1916-18. This lantern, which gave rise to the crane’s nickname: „cabin boys’ The two long store houses, Søndre Magasinbygning and is one of the finest examples in Denmark of early reinforced terror“. Nordre Magasinbygning (both 140 m in length) along concrete architecture, built by the pioneering firm of Christiani Takkelloftsgraven (rigging loft canal)were built in 1767 for & Nielsen. 15 Main guard building storing ship’s tackle (booms, halyards, sheets etc). The two Next to the mast crane is a small building with a distinctive buildings were also known as Takkelloftet (tackle store) and 13 Flydedokkerne, Dokøen spire topped by a clock and crown. This is Nyholm’s guard Hovedmagasinet (main depot). Søndre Magasinbygning has Today, only two buildings remain on Dokøen. The most building from 1744, commonly known as Under Kronen now been converted into flats, while Nordre Magasinbygning dominant is the Opera House designed by (’under the crown’). The guard building was designed by Philip is used by the School of Architecture of the Royal Danish and associates. Next to it is the small pump de Lange. The building later served as offices for the Chief of Academy of Fine Arts. house for the old dry dock nearby. The floating docks and the Copenhagen Naval Base and his staff. workshops are gone, and the dry dock from 1858 and the