©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Annecy 196-8, 203 Basque Country 357-63 A Antibes 267, 271, 277, 280 bathrooms 432 A Pignata 289 Arbois 190, 193 Bayeux 43 Abbatiale St-Ouen 107 Arcachon 371, 373 Bayeux Tapestry 43 Abbaye de Fontenay 170 Arc-et-Senans 97-9 Bayonne 358-9, 363 Abbaye de Fontevraud 150-1 architecture 23 Beaujeu 216 Abbaye Notre-Dame de medieval 43, 45, 63, 88, Beaujolais 213-19 Sénanque 247 96, 107, 165-71 Beaune 168, 171, 175-6, 179 Abri du Cap Blanc 385-6 area codes 431-2 Bergerac 379-80, 381 accommodation 25, 426-8, Argelés-Gazost 345 Besançon 188-9, 193 see also individual 238-9, 279, 304-5, 308, Besse-en-Chandesse 161-2 locations 411-13 Biarritz 359, 360, 363, 410 bookings 427 accommodation & food Biot 267-9 costs 25, 427 242, 281, 309, 415 Blaye 368-9 Aéroport d’Orly 25 Arras 69-70, 73 Blois 143-4 Aéroport Roissy Charles de art 22, 51-7 boat travel 425 Gaulle 25 cave art 383-9 Bonaguil 404 Aigues-Mortes 306 modern 273-81 Bonifacio 285-6, 290 Aiguille du Midi 46, 202 ATMs 429 Bonneval-sur-Arc 201, 203 Aiguilles de Bavella 288 Autun 168-9 43, 45, 366-7, 370, Ainhoa 361, 363 Auvergne 157-63 372, 416-17 air travel 25, 425 100, 103 border crossings 425 Aix-en-Provence 47, 278, Azay-le-Rideau 140 bouchons 226 281, 414 Bouziès 402 284-5, 290, 299, 301 B Breton Coast 20, 123-9 Alagajola 294, 300 Briançon 202 Baccarat 56 100-1, 103 Brittany 20, 123-9 Banon 248-9 Alès 319-20 bureaux de change 429-31 Bar du Vin 417 Aloxe-Corton 175, 179 Burgundy 165-71, 173-9 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur business hours 430 Alps 195-203 27, 40 Alsace 90, 85-91 Basilique Notre Dame de C Amboise 141-3, 145 Fourvière 228 Amiens 64, 70-1, 73 Basilique Ste-Madeleine 97 Cabanon Le Corbusier 256 Angers 153 Basilique St-Sernin 350 Caen 115

440 Cahors 336-7, 402, 405 Centre Pompidou-Metz 54 Chaumont-sur-Loire 145 Calvi 296, 300 Chaîne des Puys 159 cheese 60-5, 162, 192 Camaret-sur-Mer 126 Chambord 43, 143, 144, 145 Chemin de St-Jacques 338 Camargue 20, 303-9 Chamonix 46-7, 198, 203 Chenonceau 140-1 Camembert 60-1 Champagne 19, 75-83, Cheverny 144, 145 Camiño de Santiago 338 Champagne (wine) 79, 80, Chichilianne 208, 211 101 82 Chinon 139, 145, 151, 180-1 Canal St-Martin 27 Chapelle Ste-Radegonde 181 Cimetière Père-Lachaise 27 Chartres 42-3, 48

Candes-St-Martin 150 Cirque de Gavarnie 345 INDEX Cannes 265, 271 Château d’Angers 153 Citadelle de Besançon 188

Cap d’Ail 259, 261 Château de Beynac 396 Citadelle de Blaye 368 C Cap Fagnet 108 Château de Biron 404 Cité de l’Océan 360 Cap Ferrat 270 Château de Brézé 152 Cité Royale 141 CAPC Musée d’Art Château de Brissac 152-3 Clairière de l’Armistice 72 Contemporain 416 Château de Chambord 142, climate 24 car hire 24, 420 144 Cluny 166-7, 171 car insurance 419-20 Château de 96 Cognac 368 car travel, see driving Château de 177 Col de Bavella 288-9 Carcassonne 326, 327, 331, Château de Meursault 176 Col de Guéry 160, 163 411 Château de Montségur Col de la Croix 298 329-30 Carnac 128, 129 Col de l’Iseran 199 Château de Montsoreau 150 Carpentras 47 Col des Montets 201 Château de Peyrepertuse cars, see driving Col du Galibier 201-2 327-8 Carsac-Aillac 377-8 Col du Tourmalet 347 Château de Pommard 176 cash 429 Colline du Château 311 Château de Puilaurens 328-9 Castellane 47 Colmar 90, 91 Château de Puivert 329 Cathars 330 Concarneau 127-8 Château de Quéribus 328 Cathédrale de Notre-Dame Conciergerie 131 (Paris) 27, 94, 131 Château de Saumur 149 Condom 337-8, 339 Cathédrale Notre Dame Château de Versailles 42 Conques 335-6 (Amiens) 70-1 Château de Villandry 140 Corniche de l’Estérel 47, 266 Cathédrale Notre Dame Château du Clos de Vougeot 283-91, 293-301 (Rouen) 64 175 costs 25 Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Le Château du Haut Puy-en-Velay) 334 Kœnigsbourg 88 accommodation 25, 426, 427 Cathédrale St-André 416 Château Gaillard 64 food 25, 428 Cathédrale Ste-Cécile 100 Château la Costes 279 tipping 25, 430 Cathédrale St-Étienne 54 Château Lanessan 368 Cours Saleya 31, 310 Cathédrale St-Jean 228 Château Royal de Blois Cramant 81-2 Cauterets 345-7, 349 143-4 Cro Magnon people 383 cave art 383-9 Château-Chalon 191-2, 193 credit cards 429 Caves Painctes de Chinon châteaux 19, 137-45, see also 180 individual châteaux Creysse 380 cell phones 25, 431 Châtillon-en-Diois 211 currency 24, 429

441441 websites 419 oysters 367 D winter 199 Paris 27, 48, 102 Dambach-la-Ville 87-8 Duché Château 319 tapas 360 dangers 431, see also safety Dune du Pilat 371 truffles 380 D-Day beaches 14, 113-21 DVDs 426 Forcalquier 249, 251 Deauville-Trouville 110 foreign exchange 429-31 debit cards 429 E Forteresse Royale de Chinon 181 Défilé de la Souloise 208-9 École Nationale d’Équitation French Alps 195-203 INDEX Dieppe 107 149 Dijon 168 Église Notre Dame 168 French language 24, 433-4

D-G Dinan 124-5 Église St-Germain des Prés French Riviera 17, 47 disabilities, travellers with 94 Fresque des Lyonnais 229 432 Eiffel Tower 27, 95 fuel 24, 424 Distillerie Christian Drouin electricity 428 Fuissé 218 62 emergencies 24 Futuroscope 46 documents 419 Épernay 78-81, 83 Dole 189-90 Espelette 361-2, 363 G Domaine de la Palissade Étang de Vaccarès 306 Gageac-et-Rouillac 380 306-7 Étretat 108 gas 24, 424 Domaine des Vignes du Èze 260, 261 gay travellers 429 Paradis – Pascal Durand Èze-sur-Mer 259-60 218 Gevrey-Chambertin 174-5 Domme 393-4, 397 Giverny 106-7 Dordogne 375-81, 391-7 F Glanum 239-40, 242 Doué-la-Fontaine 152 Fécamp 108 Gordes 246-7, 251 driving 419-24, 425, see also Figeac 336, 400-1, 405 Gorges de la Bourne 207 parking Filitosa 285 Gorges de l’Ardèche 224-5, car hire 24, 420 Flanders 67-73 227 fuel 24, 424 Fleurie 217, 219 Gorges du Tarn 320-1, 323 insurance 419-20 Florac 320, 323 Gorges du Verdon 47, 49, 210 licence 419 Foix 330, 331, 347-8, 349 Grand Théâtre 417 maps 421 Fondation Maeght 276 Grotte de Font de Gaume motorcycles 422, 425 Fontainebleau 96, 102 385 music 424 Fontenay 97 Grotte de la Luire 207-8 Pyrenees 348 food 22, 25, 428, see also Grotte de 46, 388 recommended roads 15 individual locations Grotte de Pech-Merle 386 road distances 421 bouchons 226 Grotte de Rouffignac 386, road rules 420-1, 422-4 cheese 60-5, 162, 192 388 safety 421-2, 423, 424, costs 25, 428 Grotte des Combarelles 431 Dordogne 375-81 385 satellite navigation Lille 29 Grottes de Sare 360-1 systems 424 28, 227 Guéthary 360 speed limits 423 Nice 31, 271, 280, 415 Gujan Mestras 370-1 tolls 423 Norman cuisine 62

442442 La Rochelle 409, 415 accommodation & food H La Roque Gageac 378, 381 28, 227 Hautvillers 78 La Turbie 255-6, 261 walking tours 228-9 highlights 8-9, 12-21 La Winery 367 hilltop villages 19, 21, 391-7 Lac Blanc 201 M Historial de la Grande Guerre Lalique, René 56 Manosque 250 72 Langeais 139-40, 145 maps 421 historic sites 23 language 24, 433-4 Marseille 413-14 holidays 430 Lans-en-Vercors 206, 211 Martel 394-6, 397 INDEX Honfleur 62, 65, 110, 111 lavender oil 248 measures 426

Hostellerie Gargantua 180 lavender routes 245-50 megaliths 126 H-M Hôtel d’Assezat 351 Le Domaine Saint Hippolyte Mémorial – Un Musée pour Hunawihr 88 61-2 la Paix 115 108-10, 111 Menton 257-9, 261, 274-5, I Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 82 280 Le Mont-Dore 160-1, 163 Île Rousse 294, 300 Mer de Glace 47 Le Musée Bonnard 278 insurance 419-20 Metz 54, 57 Le Point de Vue 307-8 internet access 25, 429 Meursault 179 Le Puy-en-Velay 334-5, 339 internet resources 25, 419 Mijoux 192 Le Sambuc 308, 309 Lille 29 Millau 323 Le Thot 388 Lyon 28 Mirmande 224, 227 Lens 53 Nice 31 Mittelbergheim 86-7, 91 Les Andelys 64, 65 Paris 27 mobile phones 25, 431 Les Calanques de Piana Italy 257 Moët & Chandon 79 298-9 Itxassou 362 Moissac 337, 339 Les Catacombes 27 Monaco 259, 260 Les Halles Victor Hugo 350 Monet, Claude 64, 105, 106-7, J Les Rousses 192 108, 110 Jardin des Tuileries 130 lesbian travellers 429 money 25, 427, 428, 429, Jardin Public 416 Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac 384-5, 430 Josselin 128 389 moneychangers 429-31 Juan-les-Pins 267, 277, 280 Levie 289 Monflanquin 392-3 Juliénas 218, 219 Lille 29, 52-3, 68, 73 Monpazier 393 Jura 187-93 L’Imaginarium 175 Mont Blanc 198, 201 Livarot 61 Mont Brouilly 216 K Loches 141 Mont St-Michel 14, 43, 44, 49 Katzenthal 90 19, 137-45, Mont Ventoux 248 147-55 Kaysersberg 89-90 Montagne de Reims Lot Valley 399-405 Champagne Route 77 L Louvre 27, 130 Monte Carlo 260, 261 Louvre-Lens 53 Montélimar 224 La Boisselle 70, 73 Luberon 249, 250 Montignac 389 La Cave Voltaire 181 Luzech 402-3 Montsoreau 150 La Devinière 151-2 Lyon 28, 46, 222 Morgat 127

443443 Mornas 225-6, 227 Normandy 105-11 parking 424 Mortemart 378-9 Notre Dame (Paris) 27, 94, Lille 29 motorcycles, see driving 131 Lyon 28 Mougins 265-6, 271 Noyers-sur-Serein 170, 171 Nice 30 Moulin à Vent 218 Nuits-St-Georges 175 Paris 27 Moustiers-Ste-Marie 47, Pau 343-4, 349 209-10, 211 O Pauillac 367-8 Mumm 76 Obernai 86, 91 Péronne 72 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire 180 INDEX opening hours 430 petrol 24, 424 Musée de la Civilisation Opéra de Lyon 229 phonecards 432 Gallo-Romaine 228 M-P Orange 99-100, 103, 226, Piana 300 Musée de Montmartre 40 240-1, 243 Place de la Bourse & Quai de Musée des Augustins 350 Orcival 159-60, 163 la Douane 417 Musée des Beaux-Arts 53, Ouistreham 115-16 Place de la Concorde 130 416 outdoors 22 Place des Terreaux 229 Musée d’Orsay 27, 95 oysters 367 Place du Capitole 350 Musée du Camembert 61 Place du Tertre 40 Musée du Louvre 27, 130 P Place Garibaldi 311 Musée Jean Cocteau 55 Collection Séverin Palais des Ducs et des États Plage de l’Arinella 294-6 Wunderman 274 de Bourgogne 168 Plage de Palombaggia Musée Lalique 56 100 286-8, 291 Musée Matisse 31, 276 Panthéon 131 Plage de Piémanson 307 Musée National de Parc du Châteaux 31 Plateau de Valensole 250 Préhistoire 384-5 Parc National de la Vanoise plugs, electrical 428 Musée National Fernand 199, 201 Pointe de la Ravelleta 296-8 Léger 277 Parc Naturel Régional des Pointe de Pen-Hir 127-6 Musée National Marc Chagall Grandes Causses 321-2 275 Parc Naturel Régional des Poligny 191, 193 Musée Rabelais 151-2 Volcans d’Auvergne 21, 100, 237-8, 242, 318-19 music 424 157-63 Parc Naturel Régional du Pont L’Évêque 62 N Haut-Jura 192 Pont Neuf 130 Parc Naturel Régional du Pont Romain 241 Najac 396, 397 Morvan 169 Pont St-Bénezet 100 Nancy 54-6, 57 Parc Naturel Régional du Port Lympia 311 nature 22 Vercors 206 Port-Aven 128 navigation systems 424 Parc Ornithologique de Pont Porto 298, 300 de Gau 305 Neufchâtel-en-Brey 63-4 Porto-Vecchio 288, 291 Paris 12, 26-7, 40-1 Newfoundland Memorial 70 Pourville 107 accommodation & food 27, Nice 30-1, 255, 270, 275-6 prehistoric art 383 48, 102 accommodation & food 31, Président Farm 60 271, 280, 415 Unesco World Heritage Presqu’île de Crozon 126-7, Sites 94-6 walking tours 310-11 129 walking tours 130-1 Nîmes 236-7, 242 Prieuré de Salagon 249-50

444444 Promenade des Anglais 56 31, 310 S St-Rémy-de-Provence 279, Provence 235-43 safety 421-2, 423, 424, 430-1 281 art markets 276 Sainte-Chapelle 131 St-Romain 176-7, 179 history 240 Sainte-Nathalène 377 St-Saturnin-lès-Apt 247-8, 96-7 Salers 162, 163 251 public holidays 430 Salin de Badon 306 St-Savin 345, 349 Puligny-Montrachet 178, 179 Saline Royale 99 St-Tropez 47, 266 Pupillin 190 Salles-Arbuissonnas en St-Valery en Caux 107-8, 111 INDEX Puy de Dôme 158-9 Beaujolais 214-15 Sword Beach 115 San Sebastián 362 Puy de Sancy 160 P-T Puy l’Évêque 403-4 Sarlat-la-Canéda 45-6, 376-7, T 381, 389 Puy Mary 162, 163 Taittinger 76 Sartène 285, 290 Pyrenees 15, 341-9 tapas 360 satellite navigation systems 424 Tapisserie de Bayeux 43 Q Sault 248 Tarascon-sur-Ariège 348 Quai de la Daurade 351 Saumur 148-9 telephone services 25, 431-2 Quimper 127 Semur-en-Auxois 169-70 Théâtre Antique 100, 226, Sisteron 209, 211 240-1 R Site Archaéologique theft 431 Cucuruzzo Capula 289 Thiepval 70 radio 424 Solenzara 289 time 426 Reims 53-4, 76-7, 83 Solutré 219 tipping 25, 430 Réserve Naturelle de Somme American Cemetery toilets 432 Scandola 298 72 tolls 423 Rhône Valley 221-7 Sources des Gillardes 208 Toulouse 350-1, 411, 415 Ribeauvillé 88 speed limits 423 tourist information 432 Riquewihr 88-9, 91 St-Amour Bellevue 218, 219 Tournus 167-8, 171 River Gard 237 St-Cirq-Lapopie 401-2, 405 Traboules 228-9 Riviera 253-261, 263-71 St-Cyprien 378 train travel 425-6 road distances 421 St-Émilion 369-70, 372, Transhumance 344 road rules 420-1, 422-4 409-10 transport 25, 425-6, see Rocamadour 394 Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer 305, also driving, parking Roche de Solutré 218 309 Lille 29 Rochemenier 152 St-Étienne de Baïgorry 362 Lyon 28 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin St-Gervais-les-Bains 198, Nice 30 256 203 Paris 27 Roquefort 322 St-Hilaire-St-Florent 153 Troglodytes et Sarcophages Roscoff 126, 129 St-Jean de Luz 360, 363 152 Rouen 64, 65, 107, 111 St-Jean Pied de Port 338, Trophée des Alpes 255 Route des Fromages 162 362, 363 truffles 380 Route des Grands Crus St-Malo 124, 129 Turquant 149-50 173-9 St-Nectaire 161, 163 TV 426 Route des Vins 89 St-Paul de Vence 269-70, 276-7, 280

445445 Vannes 128, 129 U Vaux-en-Beaujolais 215-16, W Unesco World Heritage Sites 219 weather 24 93-101 Verrerie de Biot 267 websites 25, 419 Abbaye de Fontenay 170 Versailles 42, 48 Lille 29 Amiens 64 Verzenay 77-8 Lyon 28 Besançon 188 Verzy 78 Nice 31 Blaye 368-9 Vézelay 97, 102, 170, 171 Paris 27 Bordeaux 43, 45 Vézère Valley 14, 46, 383-9 INDEX weights 426 Briançon 202 Via Notte 288 wi-fi 25, 429

U-Z Le Puy-en-Velay 334-5 Viaduc du Millau 322 wine 23, 190 Nancy 55 Vienne 222-3, 227 Bordeaux 370 Paris 130 Vieux Nice 310-11 Burgundy 178 Réserve Naturelle de villages 19, 21 Champagne 79, 80, 82 Scandola 298 Villandry 140 rosé 269 Strasbourg 56 Ville Franche 270, 271 routes 75-83, 89, 173-9, Uzès 319, 323 Villefranche de Rouergue 365-73 396 wine making 80 V Villefranche-du-Périgord 393 wine towns 17 Villefranche-sur-Saône 214 vacations 430 wineries 19 Villeneuve-sur-Lot 404 Vaison-la-Romaine 241, 243 WWI 67-73 Villers-Bretonneux 71-2 Val d’Isère 198-9, 203 WWII 14, 113-21 Villié-Morgon 216-17, 219 Valence 223-4, 227 Vimy Ridge 68-9 Vallauris 277-8 Z visas 24, 432 Vallée d’Aspe 344 Zonza 288, 291 Vulcania 158 Vallée d’Ossau 344-5

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AUTHOR THANKS research for this book. I would knowledge of with me, also like to thank Rosie Warren especially Alisa, Jean-Philippe, OLIVER BERRY in Bordeaux and the good people Alain, Aline, Andy, Mary, Conor Biggest thanks go to all my of France who knowingly or and Gloria. Back home, hugs to hard-working co-authors, who unknowingly helped out on this my wife, Gaen, and daughters, have helped make this book what project. Meigan and Chloe, who helped it is. Thanks also to Susie, Mo me immeasurably in researching and Gracie Berry, Justin Foulkes JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET the Loire Valley’s châteaux and and Patrick Desgué for their A huge thanks to everyone boulangeries. help with Mont St-Michel, David who made these trips a pure Levasseur for his assistance on joy, including Didier Ferat, DONNA WHEELER the fi ner points of Champagne Laurent and Bea in Normandy. Big love to the Nice gang and production, and everyone else I At Lonely Planet, a big thanks to Lino Lategan-McGregor met out on la route. to Jo, Annelies and the carto for Monaco nous. Thanks team for their support. I’m also to hospitable Pascal Hauer, STUART BUTLER grateful to monsieur Oliver Flavie Gil, Brigitte Walzing and I want to thank my wife, Heather, Berry, coordinating author Mamashelter Bob. More mercis for everything she does and extraordinaire, for his help, tips to Jo Cooke, Annelies Mertens my young son, Jake, who has and support. and Laura Stansfeld in-house. brought us so much happiness Final thanks to Joe Guario: that (and sleepless nights!). Thanks GREGOR CLARK Webber-esque fang outside the to Jake’s grandparents and Un grand merci to countless Fairmont was really something. aunties for babysitting during my people who shared their love and

THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Joanna Cover Research Timothy Cooke Coordinating Editors O’Hanlon Internal Image This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Sarah Bailey, Susan Paterson Research Aude Vauconsant France’s Best Trips guidebook was Coordinating Cartographer Language Content Branislava researched and written by Oliver Gabriel Lindquist Coordinating Vladisavljevic Thanks to Sasha Berry, Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Layout Designer Wibowo Rusli Baskett, Jennifer Bilos, Laura Carillet, Gregor Clark, Donna Managing Editors Annelies Crawford, Janine Eberle, Ryan Wheeler and Nicola Williams. Mertens, Kirsten Rawlings Evans, Jennye Garibaldi, Joshua Contributors to this title were Senior Editors Andi Jones, Geoghegan, Liz Heynes, Laura Alexis Averbuck, Kerry Christiani, Catherine Naghten Managing Jane, Jennifer Johnston, David Emilie Filou, Catherine Le Nevez, Cartographers Anita Banh, Kemp, Wayne Murphy, Trent Chris Pitts and John Vlahides . Anthony Phelan Managing Paton, Jessica Rose, Mik Ruff , This guidebook was commis- Layout Designer Jane Hart Julie Sheridan, Amanda Sierp, sioned in Lonely Planet’s London Assisting Editors Carly Hall, Laura Stansfeld, Matt Swaine, offi ce, and produced by the Helen Koehne, Joanne Newell John Taufa, Diana Von Holdt, following: Assisting Cartographers James Gerard Walker, Juan Winata Leversha, Cameron Romeril

435 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NICOLA WILLIAMS PUBLISHER of Carcassonne, Luigi Vaccarella/4Corners; Vase On the road, merci mille fois THANKS of sunfl owers on a table with to Corsica afi cionado Vincent Climate map data adapted an antique chair, Barbara Van Lehoux (unsurpassable Ajaccio from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & Zanten/Lonely Planet Images; recommendations); Kasia Dietz McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated A red citroen 2CV car, Ruaridh and Lindsay Tramuta (Corsica World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Stewart/Corbis tips by way of Paris); Charlie Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology Back: Rows of lavender in bloom, Johnson (best hidden beach and Earth System Sciences, 11, Provence, David Tomlinson/ camping); travel-mad husband 163344. Lonely Planet Images. Matthias and our trilingual tribe

(only one case of car sickness Cover photographs during the entire 2500km of Front (clockwise from top): extreme hairpins covered). The medieval fortress

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