Iconic British What makes a fashion both iconic and British in today’s fast paced, ever evolving society? From new sportswear infused brands dominating our youth culture to established heavyweights representing British fashion on an international scale, both the original and traditional Brit-brands are still at the forefront of fashion.

THE NEW ping the coolest labels all in one place. In MACHINE-A’s credibility as a distinctive November 2016, fans queued for over place to shop the best designer labels. As you veer off Regent Street, manoeuvre two days outside the Manchester store to your way through ’s famous Founded by Stavros Karelis, this independ- get their hands on a limited edition ‘Oi Carnaby Street around tourists stopping ent store has amassed a huge social media Polloi Manchester Marine Trainer’ for photographs and continue through following and scooped up a host of giving an indication of how in demand this roads sprouting off in every direction until celebrity fans. Oversized jumpers, shiny brand is. Down the road from Oi Polloi you find yourself in the heart of Soho. This PVC bomber jackets, baggy hoodies in are a handful of similar British brands forg- hub located in London’s West End has muted grey tones and sculptural silhou- ing a new direction for sportswear in- brought fashion home to the streets. With ettes hang proudly on the rails, contrasting spired design, such as Rabbithole London, contemporary labels paving the way for against the white-washed walls. With its Nigel Hall, who sell classic menswear the future of British fashion, it has, for raw edginess and penchant for predicting famed for their well-cut blazers, and some time, been where only the coolest which fashion designers people will want Jac+Jack. It’s no surprise that in 2015 the kids set up shop. to wear in the future, MACHINE-A is one British Fashion Council made Brewer of London’s most forward thinking fashion So, where to begin? Oi Polloi is just one Street Car Park, in the heart of Soho, the spaces. Where else can you find a Central exciting British brand to have opened in location for their biannual London Fashion Saint Martin graduate’s collection along- Soho. Delivering casual yet stylish daywear Weeks, such was the: “vibrant, diverse and side established brands such as Hussein for men, Oi Polloi (taken from the Greek creative hub set within a mile of Bond Chalayan and Mugler? This mix marks it term ‘hoi polloi’ translating as ‘the many’) Street, Dover Street, Mount Street, out as one of the freshest places to shop. has been going from strength to strength Oxford Street and Regent Street," pro- Besides, there’s no missing the bold store with their minimal yet highly wearable claimed Caroline Rush, CEO of the British logo which lights up at night radiating clothes. Yet Soho wasn’t the birthplace of Fashion Council. white light onto the mannequins displayed Oi Polloi. Creators Steve Sanderson and In the 1960s, Soho was famed for having in the shop window. Nigel Lawson opened their first store in over 100 strip clubs within its small, British writer and founder of the fashion Manchester in 2002 selling unique clothing square radius, with magistrate Henry blog ‘Style Bubble,’ Susie Lau spotted to young men who wanted cool, modern Mayhew describing the streets as, "a noto- MACHINE-A’s appeal early on, hailing pieces unavailable on the high street. “If rious place of ill-fame." Now, its busy the store as the next big thing for London someone didn’t know what Oi Polloi was, roads are filled with Londoners and fashion. “MACHINE-A…reflects the I’d say it was a men’s clothes shop that tourists alike in search of something a little gamut of styles that London Fashion sells classic stuff and sports casual and different and quintessentially British in Week currently plays host to,” she work-wear from all over the world,” every way. MACHINE-A is another explains on her blog. “Rather than Sanderson explains in an interview with brand making waves. Located at 13 concentrating on the very young fashion Sam Walker for the Oi Polloi blog. “These Brewer Street, this concept store stocks grassroots, Karelis has chosen designers were things that weren’t open to us a few men’s and womenswear both online and that are strong but not necessarily years ago.” in store, with big designers J.W Anderson, household level yet. Christopher Bringing brands together under one roof Gosha Rubchinskiy, Ryan Lo, Christopher Raeburn's functional outerwear, Sibling's makes Oi Polloi the go-to place for shop- Shannon and Raf Simons all adding to fun time knits, Louise Gray's print mix and Nasir Mazhar's sporty ready to wear and inventive millinery – it's great to actually see these London-based labels mix it up in a physical store.” Yet it has been the well-documented (and well-hash-tagged) rise and rise of Supreme and Palace Skateboards which has got London really setting the tone for all things street style. If you have teenage sons, nephews, friends… no doubt you’d have heard plenty regarding the cool fac- tor of these two cult brands. If you haven’t, then listen up. Although Supreme, www.focus-info.org FOCUS The Magazine 5 Lock & Co Dover Street Dover

Alexander Mc Queen Savile Row founded in 1994, hails from the other side floors and sparse white walls, is a haven brands alongside luxury fashion labels of the Atlantic, its appeal in Britain has cat- for loyal Palace shoppers. “We make it and such as Celine, Gucci, Valentino and apulted its status to a whole new level. that’s it. If you want it, come to the shop,” Balenciaga, DSM prides itself on its innova- When it has a ‘drop’ of new stock in store, Tanju said simply when interviewed for tive visual merchandising and stellar de- usually a weekly batch of limited pieces, The Guardian. signer collaborations. Now located on most items are sold out within the hour; Haymarket near Piccadilly Circus in the Tanju may regard the stock drop sell-outs the fashion industry has certainly recog- old headquarters, DSM is well as fast fun, but for Palace fans it can be an nised the profitability and loyal following worth a visit if only to marvel at the agonising disappointment when they just of this brand. In January of last year, sculpted floor spaces and stylish designer weren’t fast enough to get their hands on Supreme made headlines by collaborating wares. You will see eager tourists mingling a particular item – they do say, if you with luxury fashion powerhouse, Louis with wide eyed students, with their cam- snooze, you lose. That’s when Ebay comes Vuitton, on a much talked about capsule eras in tow, such is the growing popularity into the picture, with fierce bidding wars a collection. Merging Supreme’s box logo of this London landmark. The ‘Rose daily occurrence on limited Palace pieces, with the iconic LV symbol, bags, jackets Bakery’ on the top floor is a great place to often heading into high triple figures. and skateboards all in a pillar box red unwind after exploring the stores many Another place you can purchase exclusive stood out a mile off. Unsurprisingly when hidden labyrinths. Just a word of advice Palace items is at the home of avant-garde stock hit stores in a special pop-up on the before your visit – the entrance to the fashion, . Situated in Strand in July, it sold out almost immedi- store is along a small side lane called the basement of this modern concept ately. “Putting on a new Supreme hoodie Orange Street, as the front doors on the store is a trove of the coolest labels in feels as good as wearing a new designer main road remain firmly shut at all times. bag,” agrees trendsetter and creative di- town, with Palace surrounded by the likes Well, who wants to use the boring front rector Jen Brill. We won’t argue with that. of Nike Lab, Craig Green, and Comme entrance anyway? des Garcons as well as a vast sneaker Another store with a vast retail space and The skateboard emporium, Palace, has space packed full of genius designs. Having impressive fashion pieces is Alex Eagle also dominated British youth culture for previously worked at Dover Street the past two years with queues a regular Studio. Located once again in Soho, this Market, I can confirm that on many occa- store prides itself as a ‘unique retail expe- occurrence outside its Brewer Street sions when there were queues of eager store. Founded by South Londoner, Lev rience,’ with modern furnishings, minimal shoppers camped outside the store early fashion and decorative home wares all on Tanju, Palace has become the brand of in the morning, they were heading for one choice for hip-hop royalty: , Jay-Z, display. Walking around feels as though place, and one place only: the basement. , and even little North you’ve just stepped into a very stylish As soon as word is out that new stock West have all been spotted rocking Palace home, such are the welcoming surround- has hit the shop floor, teenage boys and clothing. Stemming out of Tanju’s love of ings and plush surfaces cleverly thought grown men alike are out in force to get skate culture, Palace Skateboards was out by creative director Alex Eagle herself. their hands on a Palace sweater or limited born in 2009 with an aim to sponsor “The way we shop is changing,” Eagle says. Adidas trainers. skaters needing a platform, selling skate- “Just fashion isn’t enough. People want an boards adorned with funky graffiti imagery A quick note on Dover Street Market edit across everything in their lives: and baggy hoodies in an array of colours. (DSM for short) for those who aren’t in clothes, homeware, furniture, books, art Since then, the street-wear label has spi- the know, it was founded by Comme des and music. With so much instantly avail- ralled into a cult urban brand, with its tri- Garcon designer Rei Kawakubo and is able online, they crave a more inspiring angle logo a respected symbol of named after the street on which it was environment when they shop in store, underground style. Its flagship store in originally established in London’s Mayfair. somewhere they can spend time and Soho, complete with monochrome tiled Selling a wide range of contemporary relax without the pressure to buy.”

6 FOCUS The Magazine January/February 2018 www.focus-info.org store would of course grow to become also originally established by a merchant, one of the most respected and admired Arthur Liberty, in Victorian times. The luxury department stores in the world, Liberty brand is principally known world- and a regular pit stop for visitors eager to wide for its distinctive printed fabrics. get their hands on Harrods’ famous loose Entering the magnificent building is part of leaf in the food hall. the shopping experience. The three inter- Famed for its red brick exterior and rich, nal light wells divide the store into a num- Egyptian themed interior, you can find just ber of welcoming and comforting spaces. about anything in Harrods. Whether Its heyday was in the 1920s when the you’re after a new cutlery set, a quality store was very much associated with the Arts & Craft and Art Nouveau style. bottle of white wine, a sharp designer suit Today, the store champions a number of or that must have pair of Manolo Blahnik up and coming British designers in addi- Alex Eagle pumps...Harrods will be sure to have it. It tion to those who are more well-known. is rumoured that Ronald Reagan, the then Oscar Wilde famously said “Liberty is the Governor of California and future US chosen resort of the artistic shopper” and President, rang and asked for an elephant this is equally relevant today. for a Republican Party rally. The reply, as it Needless to say, in 2016 the Business of is told, was “Would that be African or Stocked inside both Harrods and Fashion included her in their pick of the Indian, sir?” The pet store is now closed Selfridges, and with shops on Regent top 500 names shaping the global industry but the array of products on sale under Street and New Bond Street, is Burberry, – watch this space. one roof is astounding. one of Britain’s most iconic fashion brands. You really can’t get more British The brands mentioned here are just a Another much loved, and extremely than their classic beige trench coats, a handful of the movers and shakers of British, department store is Selfridges & style staple synonymous with timelessness, British fashion, making us question how Co. You can’t miss it on Oxford Street, luxury and elegance. Its worldwide rev- we’d like to decorate our homes or style with its large stone pillars and intriguing enue was valued at £2.77 billion in 2017 a particular piece and are fast on their shop windows beckoning passers-by into by Statista, making Burberry the fourth way to becoming iconic in their own right, its glossy façade. If you happened to watch largest company in the UK according to both at home and away. the 2013 TV series ‘Mr Selfridge’ you will Fashion United. With prices for a classic know an awful lot about the early years of trench coat hovering above the £1,000 THE TRADITIONAL this luxury store. Opened in 1909 by mark, you are indeed buying an heirloom, Harry Gordon Selfridge, an American What springs to mind when you think of with tradition and heritage weaved into expat, Selfridges offered consumers the iconic British brands? There’s quite a few one. All Burberry trenches are proudly opportunity to shop leisurely in an envi- to choose from. There are luxury car made in England; Yorkshire to be precise. ronment where just about everything was companies and Rolls Royce, Waterproof cotton gabardine is carefully at their fingertips. Coining the now famous confectionery like , the classic woven using more than forty looms and phrase, “the customer is always right,” Twinings and PG Tips (we Brits love our shaped into a Burberry trench, with the tea) or even the Royal Family. When it Selfridge believed that shopping was in- classic check under-collar stamping that comes to fashion brands, the UK has quite deed a fun, enjoyable exercise, and what- British seal on the finished garment. a few of those too – not that we’re boast- ever his customers wanted they would Everyone from Rosie Huntington ing. Liberty, Burberry, Dunhill, Vivienne always get. “Give the lady what she wants,” Whiteley and Keira Knightley to the Westwood, Harrods, Alexander was another of his favourite catchphrases. Duchess of Cambridge have been spotted McQueen, Selfridges, Hardy Amies, Fast-forward to the 21st century and wearing a classic Burberry trench coat - Barbour … the list really is endless. But a Selfridges has grown to become one of and with the unpredictable English few brands, shrouded in heritage and tra- Britain’s most admired places for con- weather it’s a handy piece to own. dition, stand out above the rest making sumerism, with large stores in Manchester It was Thomas Burberry, a former draper’s them the bona fide iconic British brands and Birmingham. You may even have seen apprentice who founded his company in which have shaped our fashion industry. footage of the Boxing Day sales at the Hampshire in 1856, selling outdoor ap- Department stores have long been an es- London store. With shoppers diving on parel for a variety of sports. Yet it was dur- tablished part of the British high street. top of each other to get through the ing the first world war that the famous Two of the first were founded well before doors, mad rushes up the escalators, fren- trench coat came about. The simple struc- 1850 with Bainbridge, Market Street in zied searches for sizes and hectic sales as- ture and waterproof fabric of the coat Newcastle and Kendal, Milne & Co. in sistants tearing their hair out, the videos was designed to suit the needs of the Manchester the first of its kind. In 1859, an are well worth a watch if only to shake army officers working in the trenches dur- unknown grocer from the East End of your head in sheer amusement. Grabbing ing the war. The coat later became avail- London named Charles Henry Harrod a sales bargain at this store is well worth able for civilians back in Britain to buy, opened a small shop in Knightsbridge, the wait – and the pushing. proving big business for Burberry. which he called Harrods. Selling a range of Located in the Tudor revival building in Nowadays, the brand’s creative director perfumes, food and stationery, this iconic Great Marlborough Street, Liberty was Christopher Bailey continues to rework www.focus-info.org FOCUS The Magazine 7 this classic garment into his collections for FOCUS’ edit of the best British brands and where to find them: Burberry. “Bailey has always managed to Oi Polloi Ubique’, which translates as, ‘All Things, for All People, straddle the past and the future with his Everywhere.’ 1 Marshall St, Carnaby, London W1F 9BA designs, and understands that harnessing Selfridges the brand’s connection to its heritage will www.oipolloi.com The Vibe: Casual, modern menswear with a touch ultimately propel Burberry forward,” of preppiness – think an off duty Jake Gyllenhaal, 400 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB agrees Vogue’s Fashion News Director, www.selfridges.com/GB/en/ beard included. The Vibe: Wonderful visual merchandising with just about Chioma Nnadi. MACHINE-A every brand worth knowing stocked within its stone walls. As Burberry goes from strength to Liberty strength so have a handful of British 13 Brewer St, Soho, London W1F 0RH brands renowned for their luxury and www.machine-a.com Regent Street, London W1B 5AH The Vibe: Effortlessly cool pieces from an array of different The Vibe: The store in the Tudor building which champions quality. You can’t beat Savile Row tailors designers - some established, some little known. If you new British designs. Gieves & Hawkes and Hardy Amies when want unique and exclusive, this is the place for you. it comes to top-notch suiting, just as Burberry Palace Skateboards Hackett is perfect for fine shirts. Gun mak- 121 Regent St, Mayfair, London W1B 4TB ers Holland & Holland hold two royal 26 Brewer St, Soho, London W1F 0SW www.uk.burberry.com warrants and provide luxury leisurewear www.palaceskateboards.com The Vibe: A classic Burberry trench coat will give you The Vibe: A rappers paradise. Palace officially defines ‘cool’ for a range of outdoor pursuits, fashion brownie points for life. Other great pieces include with their graffiti embellished hoodies and clever their leather bags, cashmere scarves and check jumpers. Aquascutum are a great choice for winter skateboard designs. coats, Mulberry and Asprey for leather Gieves and Hawkes Dover Street Market handbags and Lock & Co for a great hat. 1 Savile Row, Mayfair, London W1S 3JR They are of course all synonymous with 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG www.gievesandhawkes.com English tradition. While at London Fashion www.doverstreetmarket.com The Vibe: Founded in 1771 this tailor offers the finest The Vibe: Contemporary, avant-garde fashion in a very bespoke suiting and menswear. Expect to receive the best Week, home grown brands such as Paul inspiring environment – you won’t know where to look! Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Pringle of customer service. Alex Eagle Studio Scotland provide the fashion pack with Alexander McQueen the best craftsmanship Britain has to offer. 6-10 Lexington St, Soho, London W1F 0LB But it is Alexander McQueen whom we www.alexeagle.co.uk 4-5 Old Bond Street, London, W1S 4PD The Vibe: A stylish mix of home designs and fashion, under associate most with British fashion. www.alexandermcqueen.com the watchful eye of Alex Eagle. Follow her on Instagram The Vibe: The world of McQueen is indeed beautiful and I know what you’re thinking, McQueen is at @eagletta. empowering with a worldwide reputation as one of Britain’s greatest fashion brands. not old enough to be thought of as a ‘tra- Harrods ditional British brand,’ but it is nevertheless Stella McCartney iconic in its own right. Who can forget 87-135 Brompton Rd, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7XL www.harrods.com 30 Bruton Street, London, W1J 6QR Kate Middleton walking down the aisle in The Vibe: Pretty much just pure luxury. Did you know that The Vibe: Beautiful clothes designed by one of Britain’s that intricate lace McQueen gown at her Harrods even have their own motto: ‘Omnia Omnibus inspirational woman. 2011 wedding? Or Lady Gaga teetering across the red carpet in her McQueen ar- madillo shoes at the 2010 MTV Video In a similar vein is the British designer fashion industry at a whopping £66 billion, Music Awards? There is no denying you Stella McCartney. Her appointment in the employing hundreds of thousands of peo- can spot an Alexander McQueen piece a early part of her career as the creative di- mile off - if you were lucky enough to visit ple up and down the country. And with rector of Chloé surprised the fashion es- the 2015 ‘Savage Beauty’ exhibition you’ll the new, up and coming Brit labels on the tablishment at that time. This quickly led know what I mean. There is a certain style rise alongside our high street giants, there to her establishing her own fashion house. about McQueen, which is both unique is no denying that British brands are a Her brand is worldwide as is the range of and breathtaking. Ostrich feather skirts, products she designs, from elegant dresses force to be reckoned with. tulle gowns, laser-cut dresses, tartan jack- ets, embellished clutch bags… the brand to sporting wear (she designed the British that the late Lee Alexander McQueen Olympic team’s kit). created fused fantasy and reality together From Alexander McQueen, Aquascutum in a way fashion had never seen before. and Marks and Spencer (Britain’s second “Fashion should be a form of escapism, biggest fashion company behind Next) to not a form of imprisonment,” Alexander Hackett, Burberry and the specialist tailors McQueen would state and the house’s on Savile Row, Britain is renowned for its current head designer Sarah Burton has fashion labels the world over. It’s little done well to include those values into her wonder that Fashion United estimated the current designs. domestic market value of the British

Hannah Last is Fashion Assistant at Tatler magazine and a contributing writer for the Huffington Post.

8 FOCUS The Magazine January/February 2018 www.focus-info.org