Iconic British Brands What makes a fashion brand both iconic and British in today’s fast paced, ever evolving society? From new sportswear infused brands dominating our youth culture to established heavyweights representing British fashion on an international scale, both the original and traditional Brit-brands are still at the forefront of fashion. THE NEW ping the coolest labels all in one place. In MACHINE-A’s credibility as a distinctive November 2016, fans queued for over place to shop the best designer labels. As you veer off Regent Street, manoeuvre two days outside the Manchester store to your way through London’s famous Founded by Stavros Karelis, this independ- get their hands on a limited edition ‘Oi Carnaby Street around tourists stopping ent store has amassed a huge social media Polloi Adidas Manchester Marine Trainer’ for photographs and continue through following and scooped up a host of giving an indication of how in demand this roads sprouting off in every direction until celebrity fans. Oversized jumpers, shiny brand is. Down the road from Oi Polloi you find yourself in the heart of Soho. This PVC bomber jackets, baggy hoodies in are a handful of similar British brands forg- hub located in London’s West End has muted grey tones and sculptural silhou- ing a new direction for sportswear in- brought fashion home to the streets. With ettes hang proudly on the rails, contrasting spired design, such as Rabbithole London, contemporary labels paving the way for against the white-washed walls. With its Nigel Hall, who sell classic menswear the future of British fashion, it has, for raw edginess and penchant for predicting famed for their well-cut blazers, and some time, been where only the coolest which fashion designers people will want Jac+Jack. It’s no surprise that in 2015 the kids set up shop. to wear in the future, MACHINE-A is one British Fashion Council made Brewer of London’s most forward thinking fashion So, where to begin? Oi Polloi is just one Street Car Park, in the heart of Soho, the spaces. Where else can you find a Central exciting British brand to have opened in location for their biannual London Fashion Saint Martin graduate’s collection along- Soho. Delivering casual yet stylish daywear Weeks, such was the: “vibrant, diverse and side established brands such as Hussein for men, Oi Polloi (taken from the Greek creative hub set within a mile of Bond Chalayan and Mugler? This mix marks it term ‘hoi polloi’ translating as ‘the many’) Street, Dover Street, Mount Street, out as one of the freshest places to shop. has been going from strength to strength Oxford Street and Regent Street," pro- Besides, there’s no missing the bold store with their minimal yet highly wearable claimed Caroline Rush, CEO of the British logo which lights up at night radiating clothes. Yet Soho wasn’t the birthplace of Fashion Council. white light onto the mannequins displayed Oi Polloi. Creators Steve Sanderson and In the 1960s, Soho was famed for having in the shop window. Nigel Lawson opened their first store in over 100 strip clubs within its small, British writer and founder of the fashion Manchester in 2002 selling unique clothing square radius, with magistrate Henry blog ‘Style Bubble,’ Susie Lau spotted to young men who wanted cool, modern Mayhew describing the streets as, "a noto- MACHINE-A’s appeal early on, hailing pieces unavailable on the high street. “If rious place of ill-fame." Now, its busy the store as the next big thing for London someone didn’t know what Oi Polloi was, roads are filled with Londoners and fashion. “MACHINE-A…reflects the I’d say it was a men’s clothes shop that tourists alike in search of something a little gamut of styles that London Fashion sells classic stuff and sports casual and different and quintessentially British in Week currently plays host to,” she work-wear from all over the world,” every way. MACHINE-A is another explains on her blog. “Rather than Sanderson explains in an interview with brand making waves. Located at 13 concentrating on the very young fashion Sam Walker for the Oi Polloi blog. “These Brewer Street, this concept store stocks grassroots, Karelis has chosen designers were things that weren’t open to us a few men’s and womenswear both online and that are strong but not necessarily years ago.” in store, with big designers J.W Anderson, household level yet. Christopher Bringing brands together under one roof Gosha Rubchinskiy, Ryan Lo, Christopher Raeburn's functional outerwear, Sibling's makes Oi Polloi the go-to place for shop- Shannon and Raf Simons all adding to fun time knits, Louise Gray's print mix and Nasir Mazhar's sporty ready to wear and inventive millinery – it's great to actually see these London-based labels mix it up in a physical store.” Yet it has been the well-documented (and well-hash-tagged) rise and rise of Supreme and Palace Skateboards which has got London really setting the tone for all things street style. If you have teenage sons, nephews, friends… no doubt you’d have heard plenty regarding the cool fac- tor of these two cult brands. If you haven’t, then listen up. Although Supreme, www.focus-info.org FOCUS The Magazine 5 Lock & Co Dover Street Dover Alexander Mc Queen Savile Row founded in 1994, hails from the other side floors and sparse white walls, is a haven brands alongside luxury fashion labels of the Atlantic, its appeal in Britain has cat- for loyal Palace shoppers. “We make it and such as Celine, Gucci, Valentino and apulted its status to a whole new level. that’s it. If you want it, come to the shop,” Balenciaga, DSM prides itself on its innova- When it has a ‘drop’ of new stock in store, Tanju said simply when interviewed for tive visual merchandising and stellar de- usually a weekly batch of limited pieces, The Guardian. signer collaborations. Now located on most items are sold out within the hour; Haymarket near Piccadilly Circus in the Tanju may regard the stock drop sell-outs the fashion industry has certainly recog- old Burberry headquarters, DSM is well as fast fun, but for Palace fans it can be an nised the profitability and loyal following worth a visit if only to marvel at the agonising disappointment when they just of this brand. In January of last year, sculpted floor spaces and stylish designer weren’t fast enough to get their hands on Supreme made headlines by collaborating wares. You will see eager tourists mingling a particular item – they do say, if you with luxury fashion powerhouse, Louis with wide eyed students, with their cam- snooze, you lose. That’s when Ebay comes Vuitton, on a much talked about capsule eras in tow, such is the growing popularity into the picture, with fierce bidding wars a collection. Merging Supreme’s box logo of this London landmark. The ‘Rose daily occurrence on limited Palace pieces, with the iconic LV symbol, bags, jackets Bakery’ on the top floor is a great place to often heading into high triple figures. and skateboards all in a pillar box red unwind after exploring the stores many Another place you can purchase exclusive stood out a mile off. Unsurprisingly when hidden labyrinths. Just a word of advice Palace items is at the home of avant-garde stock hit stores in a special pop-up on the before your visit – the entrance to the fashion, Dover Street Market. Situated in Strand in July, it sold out almost immedi- store is along a small side lane called the basement of this modern concept ately. “Putting on a new Supreme hoodie Orange Street, as the front doors on the store is a trove of the coolest labels in feels as good as wearing a new designer main road remain firmly shut at all times. bag,” agrees trendsetter and creative di- town, with Palace surrounded by the likes Well, who wants to use the boring front rector Jen Brill. We won’t argue with that. of Nike Lab, Craig Green, and Comme entrance anyway? des Garcons as well as a vast sneaker Another store with a vast retail space and The skateboard emporium, Palace, has space packed full of genius designs. Having impressive fashion pieces is Alex Eagle also dominated British youth culture for previously worked at Dover Street the past two years with queues a regular Studio. Located once again in Soho, this Market, I can confirm that on many occa- store prides itself as a ‘unique retail expe- occurrence outside its Brewer Street sions when there were queues of eager store. Founded by South Londoner, Lev rience,’ with modern furnishings, minimal shoppers camped outside the store early fashion and decorative home wares all on Tanju, Palace has become the brand of in the morning, they were heading for one choice for hip-hop royalty: Rihanna, Jay-Z, display. Walking around feels as though place, and one place only: the basement. Kanye West, Drake and even little North you’ve just stepped into a very stylish As soon as word is out that new stock West have all been spotted rocking Palace home, such are the welcoming surround- has hit the shop floor, teenage boys and clothing. Stemming out of Tanju’s love of ings and plush surfaces cleverly thought grown men alike are out in force to get skate culture, Palace Skateboards was out by creative director Alex Eagle herself. their hands on a Palace sweater or limited born in 2009 with an aim to sponsor “The way we shop is changing,” Eagle says.