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Moving to the more powerful and oaky bottles was quite a gear change, but there was no shortage And the nominees are… of impressive in that category, although the tasters often questioned their sucrosity, and the (nominated by Patricio Tapia) I Ca’ del Bosco, Curtefranca, Lombardy fact that some valued power over finesse. I Bodega Aleanna, El Enemigo, 2010 The best Chardonnays I Cantina Terlano, Rarità, Terlan, Morris was keen to distinguish sweetness from Mendoza 2012 I Caelum, Reserva, Luján de Cuyo, Alto Adige 2000 sucrosity, pointing out that the latter referred to the Mendoza 2011 I Capannelle, Tuscany 2011 impression of sweetness. Actual sweetness could I Catena Zapata, Angélica Zapata, Fèlsina Berardenga, I Sistri, Tuscany 2012 easily be derived from a dollop of residual sugar in Tupungato, Mendoza 2012 I , Gaja & Rey, Langhe, Piedmont 2011 in the world the – a common feature of much popular I Catena Zapata, White Bones, I Isole e Olena, Collezione Privata, Californian and Australian Chardonnay – whereas Tupungato, Mendoza 2011 Tuscany 2012 I Catena Zapata, White Stones, I Jermann, Dreams, Venezia Giulia 2012 sucrosity could just as easily be a side-effect of high Tupungato, Mendoza 2011 I Les Crêtes, Cuvée Bois, Valle d’Aosta 2012 (outside ) . It wasn’t always easy to distinguish I Finca Sophenia, Reserve, Tupungato, I Tasca, Vigna San Francesco, Contea di between the two, though it seemed there were few Mendoza 2012 Sclafani, 2012 wines that had alarming amounts of residual sugar. I Luca, G Lot, Tupungato, Mendoza 2012 I Vie di Romans, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Aside from Chablis, or , which of the world’s A fine white Burgundy should offer complexity, I Luigi Bosca, Finca Los Nobles, Venezia Giulia 2012 leading Chardonnay regions would you turn to, and what are the nuance, finesse and ageability. How many of these Mendoza 2011 (Bob Campbell MW) I Rutini, Apartado, Mendoza 2013 qualities were echoed in the non-Burgundian I Bell Hill, Canterbury 2011 top wines from each? In a landmark tasting, Stephen Brook heads I Trapezio, Plus Chardonnay, Agrelo, I Dog Point , Marlborough 2011 Chardonnays? Morris willingly conceded that for at up an expert panel to find out – and the results may surprise you Mendoza 2011 I Felton Road, Block 2, Bannockburn, least 20 years other regions have produced wines of (Huon Hooke & Tyson Stelzer) Central 2012 a quality that rivalled good Burgundy. Indeed, he I By Farr, , Victoria 2012 I Forrest Wines, John Forrest Collection, noted of this line-up, ‘If we had the same number of I Cullen, Kevin John, Margaret River, Wairu Valley, Marlborough 2011 CHARDONNAY, MOST WINE lovers agree, is the the editorial team made a final selection of 80 theoretically top Burgundies in a tasting, they would 2012 I Fromm, Clayvin Vineyard, ‘If we had the I noblest white variety (we’ll allow wines (see box, right). The tasters (myself, Jasper not have been as consistently good.’ Spurrier and I De Bortoli, Section A5, , Marlborough 2007 Victoria 2012 I Giesen, The Fuder, Clayvin, enthusiasts a dissenting voice). But at least four Morris MW and Steven Spurrier) were given felt much the same, though Spurrier suspected he same number I De Bortoli & Shelmerdine, Phi, Lusatia Marlborough 2012 decades have gone by since it was a monopoly of the minimal information: just the vaguest indications might have assessed more critically had the wine Park Vineyard, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2007 I River, Maté’s Vineyard, Burgundy region and . Today it is widely about -ageing and alcohol. Thus the wines were of theoretically actually been from Burgundy. I Flametree, SRS, Wallcliffe, Margaret Kumeu 2011 planted throughout the world, and with mature required to speak for themselves. Spurrier and I Had this been a conventional panel River, Western Australia 2013 I Vineyard, Martinborough and experienced working broadly agreed with Morris’ assertion that ‘about tasting, just over half the wines would have fallen I Giaconda, Beechworth, Victoria 2011 Terrace, Martinborough 2012 top Burgundies I , Art Series, Margaret I with the variety, it was irresistibly tempting to test half the wines couldn’t have been Burgundy, but into the Outstanding or Highly Recommended Neudorf, Moutere, Nelson 2012 River, Western Australia 2010 I Villa Maria, Keltern Vineyard, how Chardonnay outside Burgundy is faring, half quite easily could have’. in a tasting, categories – an impressive result. (Though given the I Mac Forbes, Woori Yallock, Yarra Valley, Hawke’s Bay 2013 especially since concerns about premature wines had been pre-selected for their exceptional Victoria 2013 (Tim Atkin MW) I Oakridge, 864 Single Block Release, oxidation and ever soaring prices increasingly Power vs finesse they would not quality, this figure may not be quite as astounding I Ataraxia, Hemel-en-Aarde 2013 Yarra Valley, Victoria 2011 persuade wine drinkers to look outside that region. The wines fell, approximately into two camps: those as it at first appears. Nonetheless the panel was I Chamonix, Reserve, Franschhoek 2013 I , Reserve Bin 13A, Adelaide Unlike its stablemate , Chardonnay with 13.5% alcohol or less, and those with 14% or have been as more than delighted by the quality overall.) I Crystallum, Clay Shales, Overberg 2013 Hills, South Australia 2013 I Crystallum, The Agnes, Western has never been particularly difficult to grow. While more. The less powerful wines tended to be aged, or I Penfolds, Yattarna, South Eastern Cape 2013 it tends to thrive in a relatively cool climate and so it seemed as they were tasted, in a moderate consistently Analysing the results Australia 2013 I De Wetshof, Bateleur, Robertson 2012 site, it can succeed in a number of styles, from proportion of new oak. The emphasis was on Looking closely at the actual results, it’s hard to see I Tolpuddle Vineyard, 2012 I Hamilton Russell Vineyards, good’ Jasper Morris MW I , Heytesbury, Margaret River, unoaked Chablis to richly oaked versions. In short, freshness, acidity and finesse. any clear pattern. Among the wines with the highest Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay 2013 Western Australia 2012 it’s malleable, a variety that winemakers love to Those in the second camp tended to be richer, average scores (which we’ve rated as Outstanding I Jordan, Nine Yards, Stellenbosch 2013 play with, as they can easily exercise their skills on toastier, with more evident use of oak. There were and above) four are from Australia, three are from (Stephen Brook & Jon Bonné) I Longridge, Stellenbosch 2013 I it, dabbling in all kinds of variables, such as yields, excellent wines in both camps, although the panel South Africa, there are two each from the US and Norman Hardie, Estate, Prince Edward I Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection, County, Ontario 2012 fermentation, (or its (perhaps because of our demure European tastes) New Zealand, and one each from Canada and . Elgin 2012 I Tawse, Estate, Niagara Penisula, I Sumaridge Estate Wines, Upper suppression), -stirring, and more. tended to favour the fresher styles, which showed The only surprises here are the unexpectedly Ontario 2011 Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay 2012 Given Chardonnay’s popularity, the field for any precision, restraint and, often, minerality. strong performances by wines from Lombardy and Chile (Peter Richards MW & Patricio Tapia) USA (Jon Bonné and Stephen Brook) tasting of top Chardonnays needed to be narrowed The 2013s showed beautifully, and there was Niagara, and the presence in force of South Africa’s I Alto Las Gredas, Gran Reserva, I Au Bon Climat, Los Alamos Vineyard, down, a task undertaken by Decanter experts who less tension and more overt sucrosity in the 2012s. Hemel-en-Aarde region. Perquenco 2012 Santa Barbara County, California 2011 nominated what they considered the finest Rather to our surprise, the handful of 2010s were Among the next tier of high-scoring wines I Aristos, Duquesa d’A, Cachapoal 2009 I Ceritas, Porter-Bass Vineyard, Sonoma Chardonnays from their regions. From these lists, mostly stunning, with very little evolution. (Highly Recommended), seven come from the US ­ I Calyptra, Gran Reserva, Cachapoal 2011 Coast, California 2012 I Clos des Fous, Locura 1, Rapel, I Chanin, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Central Valley 2012 Santa Rita Hills, California 2012 I Concha y Toro, Marques de Casa Concha, I Failla, Haynes Vineyard, Coombsville, Limarí 2012 California 2012 I De Martino, Quebrada Seca, Limarí 2012 I Hanzell, Sonoma Valley, California 2012 I Maycas del Limarí, Quebrada Seca, I Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, Ovalle, Limarí 2010 California 2012 I Miguel Torres, Cordillera, Reserva I Hyde & De Villaine, HdV, Carneros, Especial, Limarí 2012 Napa Valley, California 2010 I Pandolfi Price, Los Patricios, Itata 2010 I Knez, Demuth Vineyard, Anderson I Tabalí, Talinay, Coastal Limstone Valley, Mendocino, California 2012 Vineyard, Limarí 2013 I Lioco, Demuth Vineyard, Anderson I Viña Aquitania, Sol de Sol, Malleco Valley, Mendocino, California 2012 Valley, Traiguén 2011 I Littorai, BA Thieriot Vineyard, Sonoma I Viña Ventisquero, Tara 1, Coast, California 2012 Atacama 2013 I Ramey, Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, Italy (Ian D’Agata) California 2010 I Bellavista, Convento SS Annunciata, I Sandhi, Bentrock, Santa Rita Hills, Curtefranca, Lombardy 2010 California 2012 CHARDONNAY

– all Californian – six from Australia, five Bell Hill, Giesen and Neudorf all did Concha y Toro, Felton Road, Block 2, Finca Sophenia, from New Zealand and four from Chile, with splendidly, but that may be as much to do The judges Marques de Casa Bannockburn, Central Reserve, Tupungato, three from Italy and two each from South with the talents of Paul Mason, Marcel Concha, Limarí, Otago, New Zealand Mendoza, Argentina Africa and Argentina. Here the surprise is Giesen and Tim Finn rather than the Stephen Brook Chile 2012 2012 2012 the strong showing by Californian wines greatness of any specific sub-region and has been a Decanter £11.45-£12.54 Hawkshead £22-£30 Berry Bros & Rudd, £12.85 Ellis of Richmond from different regions. The perception of its . Similarly, the top Chardonnays contributing editor Wines, SH Jones, Slurp, Tesco Bibendum, Farr Vintners, Lightly smoky pear aroma. Californian Chardonnay is that it tends to from California included bottles produced since 1996 and has Wine by the Case, TJ Wines Hawkshead Wines, Hedonism, won many awards Lean, intense, ripe fruit backed be oaky and heavy, and while the wines by David Ramey, Ehren Jordan, Sashi Some florality over yellow Laithwaite’s, SH Jones, Slurp, for his wine writing. Solent Cellar, The Wine Society, by a fresh structure. There’s nominated for this tasting tended to be in Moorman and Ted Lemon, all widely summer fruits. Good attack He has also written Woodwinters sufficient acidity to keep it a fresher and more elegant style, it is still acknowledged as masters of the variety. with ripe acidity – a bold style more than 30 books, Attractive bacon fat nose. Rich lively, and the aftertaste is noteworthy that so many came through The panel discussed ageability. Morris that is concentrated, spicy including The Fine Wines of California. and juicy, with a seam of acidity decidedly citric. Drink strongly. Australia and New Zealand also was reluctant to recommend long cellaring, and quite toasty. Drink Brook’s favourite: Ca’ del Bosco, to give tension and bite. Fruit 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% showed great regional diversity. but noted the best should ‘age without 2015-2021 Alc 14% Of the least admired wines (those that difficulty for 10-15 years’. Spurrier was Curtefranca, Lombardy 2010 (see p32) blends well with oak. Mineral. didn’t make the top 32 from the 80 tasted) more cautious, rarely going beyond 2020. ‘I knew this estate makes Italy’s greatest Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% it is striking that so many came from South My own view is closer to Morris’, although sparkling wines, but clearly it excels with America and Italy. Even so, there were a it is hardly essential to cellar any of these still Chardonnay too: exotic yet has great number with high scores, although we before they can be drunk with pleasure. precision, tension, pungency and length.’ Flametree, SRS, Fromm, Clayvin Giesen, The Fuder, tasters did not always agree. By contrast On the basis of this tasting, Burgundy Wallcliffe, Margaret Vineyard, Clayvin, Marlborough, our scores for the top 32 wines listed here need not look anxiously over its shoulder Jasper Morris MW River, Western Marlborough, New New Zealand 2012 were far more uniform. as hordes of great Chardonnay producers is the Burgundy Australia 2013 Zealand 2007 £31.86-£35 Harrods, Lay & I’m not sure we can draw any firm draw ever closer. It’s not news that other buyer for UK wine N/A UK www.flametreewines. £31.99 All About Wine, D Byrne Wheeler conclusions from this tasting. German and regions can dazzle with this variety. But it merchant Berry com & Co, The New Zealand Cellar, Floral aromas over yellow Austrian Chardonnay were not represented, does seem to show that, given Chardonnay’s Bros & Rudd and the Fresh nose with notes of lemon Woodwinters fruits. Ripe and juicy on the and Morris argued that Italy was over- essential malleability, a great DWWA Regional and lime and a delicate herbal A lot of elegant oak on the nose palate with just a hint of represented. It seems to be a case of great in a great spot can make outstanding wine. Chair for Burgundy. tang. A pungent style that’s – toasty and stylish. Lots of sweetness but balanced by winemakers and , rather than Moreover, many of the these wines are His book, Inside clearly youthful, but with fine depth and acidity over the extract, oak and intrinsic regions that clearly rival Burgundy. From substantially cheaper than their role Burgundy, won the André Simon award concentration and acidity. quite pronounced phenolics. power. Has personality and New Zealand, wines from Martinborough, models from Burgundy (see box p29). for the best wine book of the year (2010). There’s ripe fruit on the long Forward and attractive; a good persistence. Drink 2015-2020 Morris’ favourite: Tawse, Estate, Niagara finish. Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13% wine. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 14.5% Penisula, Ontario, Canada 2011 (see p32) Alc 14.5% ‘Beautifully floral, concentrated and (in alphabetical order) Highly Recommended wines elegant. Not too exotic, but balanced and powerfully intense without being heavy. Bellavista, Convento Bodega Aleanna, El Very persistent.’ Hamilton Russell Hanzell, Sonoma Hirsch Vineyards, SS Annunziata, Enemigo, Mendoza, Vineyards, Hemel-en- Valley, USA 2012 Sonoma Coast, Curtefranca, Argentina 2012 Steven Spurrier Aarde Valley, South £50 Goedhuis California, USA 2012 Lombardy, Italy 2010 N/A UK www.enemigowines. is Decanter’s Africa 2013 Oranges and – a N/A UK www.hirschvineyards. £35-£46 Carruthers & Kent, com consultant editor £21-£23 D Byrne & Co, Harrods, notably exotic nose, which com Exel Wines, Hawkshead Wines, Heady stone fruits nose with and chairman of the Handford Wines, Harrogate Fine actually freshens up and Lively, with a very pure and Hedonism, , Liberty Wines, some tropical elements. Decanter World Wine Co, Hawkshead Wines, balances out. Plump and juicy, classy bouquet of pink Scarlet Wines, SH Jones, Slurp, Selfridges, SH Jones, Slurp, Excellent acidity and has some Wine Awards and with good concentration, grapefruit and lemon. Quite Winedirect Spirited Wines, The Wine Society, class to the fruit – certainly Decanter Asia Wine depth of fruit, nice lift and rich, sleek and concentrated Herbaceous nose but not too Tivoli Wines, Whole Foods ripe, but a success in this style. Awards. length. Drink 2015-2020 palate with good acidity and green; has finesse and grace. Stylish nose with classy oak; Has real structure and grip Spurrier’s favourite: Penfolds, Reserve Alc 14.5% just a hint of sweetness. Apricot and banana crème poised and fresh. Weighty yet with a long, nutty finish. Bin 13A, Adelaide Hills, South Australia A distinctive Chardonnay. brûlée palate. Stylish and still lively palate with good Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.9% 2013 (see p28) ‘Very elegant and linear. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% acidity and a mineral touch. long, discreet toasty finish. Good now, and with a good future.’ Drink 2015-2018 Alcohol 13% A rich finish; impressive and exotic. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13%

Cantina Terlano, Ceritas, Porter-Bass Chanin, Sanford & Jermann, Dreams, Kumeu River, Maté’s Lioco, Demuth Rarità, Terlan, Alto Vineyard, Sonoma Benedict Vineyard, Venezia Giulia, Italy Vineyard, Kumeu, New Vineyard, Anderson Adige, Italy 2000 Coast, California, USA Santa Rita Hills, 2012 Zealand 2011 Valley, Mendocino, £88 Astrum Wine Cellars, 2012 California, USA 2012 £39-£43 Exel Wines, Farr £23.50-£30 Bennetts Fine California, USA 2012 Woodwinters N/A UK www.ceritaswines.com £24.95 Flint Vintners, Great Western Wine, Wines, The Wine Society N/A UK www.liocowine.com Harrods, Majestic, Winedirect Mellow lime and nose. , and summer- Big, oaky nose with apple Oaky nose with apple compote. Lightly honeyed nose with Buttery, tropical nose of lime, Balanced and delicious on the fruits nose. Rich and plump compote and stone fruits. The There is a really impressive clear and well-expressed citrus and pineapple. A ripe palate with yellow fruit and without seeming heavy, as wine has length, elegance and weight of fruit on the mid- fruits. Rich palate but has style but it has been kept in line good freshness. Quite opulent there is refreshing acidity broad flavours. Drink 2015-2018 palate here, with some yellow rather edgy acidity – sleek in very nicely – not too exotic and with some heft on the finish, coursing through the wine. Alc 14.5% plums, and just enough acidity texture with plenty of energy with very good length. Smooth which is oaky and long. Ripe and juicy, but also tangy to balance and good length. and an attractive, grapey style. and rich; very well expressed. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13% and invigorating. Drink Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.2% ­ Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% 2015-2022 Alc 12.9%

26 | M arch 2015 • DEC ANTER DEC ANTER • M arch 2015 | 27 CHARDONNAY

Littorai, BA Thieriot Longridge, Mac Forbes, Woori Vineyard, Sonoma Stellenbosch, South Yallock, Yarra Valley, Outstanding wines Best-value wines tasted (in alphabetical order) Coast, California, USA Africa 2013 Australia 2013 * Denotes wines already listed in this feature, among the top 32 2012 N/A UK www.longridge.co.za £30 Oz Wines Ataraxia, Hemel-en-Aarde, Fèlsina Berardenga, I Sistri, £63.99 Hedonism Quite a powerful bouquet of Interesting, smoky and mineral South Africa 2013 * Tuscany, Italy 2012 Ataraxia, Hemel-en-Aarde, lime and floral notes. Ripe and nose showing vibrancy. Powerful apple and apricot £18-£25 Bancroft Wines, Bottle £24.99 Eclectic Tastes, Liberty juicy palate with a hint of Citrussy palate with oak in just South Africa 2013 nose, with well-integrated oak. Apostle, Handford Wines, Majestic, Wines, PM Wine Cellars, Stainton Natural fruit and good acidity sweetness, but it’s balanced by a supporting role, the structure £18-£25 Bancroft Wines, Bottle Apostle, Handford Wines, Stone Vine & Sun, The Wine Library Wines, Toscanaccio Majestic, Stone Vine & Sun, The Wine Library with that slight exoticism of tangy acidity. A touch of coming from good acidity. Alcohol 13.5% Alc 13% Lime and tropical fruit on nose and palate. Shows New World Chardonnay. A fine, on the finish – this has A racy style showing finesse Chamonix, Reserve, Finca Sophenia, Reserve, interesting complexity in the mouth with a crisp acid persistent finish. Drink a good future. Drink 2015-2020 rather than opulence. Drink Franschhoek, South Africa Tupungato, Mendoza, balance, some lees character, well-integrated oak, 2015-2022 Alc 13.6% Alc 14% 2015-2024 Alc 13% 2013 Argentina 2012 * length and precision. Drink 2015-2023 Alc 13.5% £22 Berry Bros & Rudd, Handford £12.85 Ellis of Richmond Wines, Lay & Wheeler, The Wright Alc 13.5% KEVIN GRANT SPENT 15 years working at some Wine Co, SA Wines Online, Forrest Wines, John Forrest of South Africa’s top wine estates, including a Raeburn Fine Wines, South Down Collection, Wairau Valley, long stint as winemaker at Hamilton Russell. Maycas del Limarí, Miguel Torres, Neudorf, Moutere, Cellars Marlborough, New Zealand In 2004 he struck out on his own, when he Quebrada Seca, Ovalle, Cordillera, Reserva Nelson, New Zealand Alc 13.5% 2011 and some investment partners purchased a Limarí, Chile 2010 Especial, Limarí, 2012 Chanin, Sanford & Benedict £18.99 Adnams 50ha site, the highest in the Hemel-en- £21 New Street Wine Shop Chile 2012 £44.99-£50 Berry Bros & Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, Alc 13% Aarde region, but still close to the ocean. California, USA 2012 * Hamilton Russell Six hectares were planted to Chardonnay, Bready and yeasty nose. Quite £10.99-£13.50 & Bottle, Rudd, Must Wines, The New Zealand Cellar, The Wine Society £24.95 Flint Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde and another 6ha to Pinot Noir. The soils for profound fruit and complex Fareham Wine Cellars, Fine Wines Direct, Yorkshire Vintners, Alc 14.5% Valley, South Africa 2013 * this wine are similar to those on which the texture, good persistence, with Intense apple nose, with fine Marque Clos des Fous, Locura 1, £21-£23 D Byrne & Co, Harrods, Crystallum (see p30) is grown: clay, with neither overt sweetness nor oak aromas that are well Discreet lime and green pea Rapel, Central Valley, Chile Handford Wines, Harrogate Fine significant granite and shale content. The alcohol burn. Well-blended integrated. Good weight of nose with light oak. Hefty 2012 Wine Co, Hawkshead Wines, vineyard faces mostly south, ensuring a cool with nice broad flavours. fruit on the palate, which has weight to this broad- £13.99 Buon Vino, Camber Wines, Selfridges, SH Jones, Slurp, microclimate. The wine is barrel-fermented Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14% vigour and minerality behind it. shouldered wine with biscuity The oak is evident but should Carruthers & Kent, Luvians, New St Spirited Wines, The Wine Society, and aged in 28% new oak from Burgundian oak and some sucrosity to the harmonise more with age. Wine Shop, No2 Pound St, Park Tivoli Wines, Whole Foods coopers; there is occasional lees-stirring ripe fruit. Very persistent. Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13.5% Vintners, Prohibition Wines, The Alc 13% and after nine months of ageing the wine is Drink 2015-2018 Alc 14% Secret Cellar, Theatre of Wine, Maycas del Limarí, bottled. Beautiful purity and clarity. Whole Foods Market, Winebear, Quebrada Seca, Ovalle, The Wine Chambers, Winedirect, Limarí, Chile 2010 * Penfolds, Reserve Bin Penfolds, Yattarna, Sandhi, Bentrock, The Wine Reserve £21 New Street Wine Shop 13A, Adelaide Hills, South Eastern Santa Rita Hills, Alc 14% Alc 14% Bell Hill, Canterbury, South Australia 2013 Australia 2013 California, USA 2012 Concha y Toro, Marques de Miguel Torres, Cordillera, New Zealand 2011 Casa Concha, Limarí, Chile Reserva Especial, Limarí, £65-£70 Berry Bros & Rudd, £96-£125 (2012) Berry Bros & £44.95 Roberson £75 Armit Corking Wines, Lay & Wheeler, Rudd, Frazier’s, Laithwaite’s, 2012 * Chile 2012 * Has an attractive grapey style, Attractive floral nose and very well-balanced aromas of apple and oak. Noel Young Harrods, Hedonism, Woodwinters £11.45-£12.54 Hawkshead Wines, £10.99-£13.50 Cork & Bottle, along with some lemony notes. The fruit is fully ripe but balanced by the acidity, which is perfectly Bacon fat aromas with apple Delicate citrus nose – distinctly SH Jones, Slurp, Tesco Wine by the Fareham Wine, Fine Wines Direct, Good citrussy length of fruit on integrated. An impressive wine with a tangy finish. and floral notes. A touch of lemony with white flowers. Case, TJ Wines Yorkshire Vintners, Vintage Marque the palate with nice acidity and Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% fresh lime on the palate, which Appears to be a lighter, elegant length. Has grip and tension, Alc 14% Alc 14% is vigorous and lifted with style of Chardonnay but there’s and some minerality on the Crystallum, The Agnes, Norman Hardie, County, BELL HILL’S CHARDONNAYS and Pinot Noirs ripeness and precision. A still some weight on the palate. finish. Drink 2015-2022 Western Cape, South Africa Prince Edward County, enjoy a cult following in New Zealand, and by restrained style but well made. Perfectly balanced – a very Alc 13.1% 2013 Ontario, Canada 2012 that country’s standards they are expensive Drink 2015-2024 Alc 12.5% classy wine. Drink 2015-2024 £22.99 The Good Wine Shop, The £20 The Wine Society wines. The 2ha of vineyards were planted in the Alc 13% Secret Cellar, The Wine Reserve Alc 12.5% late 1990s at a former quarry near Alc 13.5% Sumaridge Estate Wines, Canterbury. Marcel Giesen and his wife De Bortoli, Section A5, Yarra Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Sherwyn are the owners. Giesen is one of the Valley, Victoria, Australia 2012 Valley, Walker Bay, South three brothers that run their eponymous Tabalí, Talinay, Tolpuddle Vineyard, Vasse Felix, £22 North South Wines Africa 2012 in , having emigrated Coastal Limstone Tasmania, Australia Heytesbury, Margaret Alc 12.5% £21.99 The Wine Co from their native Germany in the 1980s. Vineyard, Limarí, 2012 River, Western De Martino, Quebrada Seca, Alc 13.5% They undertook an extensive and detailed Chile 2013 £35.50-£44.99 Exel Wines, Australia 2012 Limarí, Chile 2012 Tabalí, Talinay, Coastal soil analysis to get to grips with the £15.99 All About Wine, Free Run Juice, Halifax Wine Co, £29-£40 Avery’s, Corking £23.99 Les Caves de Pyrène Limstone Vineyard, Limarí, of each parcel. The vines are atypical of the Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, The D Byrnes & Co, Woodwinters Wines, Hawkshead Wines, Alc 13.5% Chile 2013 * country’s norms by being planted at a Longship, Miles Better Wines, No2 Laithwaite’s, Majestic, SH Jones, Lime cordial nose and very Dog Point Vineyard, £15.99 All About Wine, D Byrne & density of between 9,000 and 12,500 vines Pound Street, ND John, Oz Wines, Slurp, Wine Direct ripe citrus and apricot fruit. Selfridges, Slurp, The Vineking Marlborough, New Zealand Co, Woodwinters per hectare. The Chardonnay is aged in Sprightly lime and tropical Melon notes on the palate and Floral and fresh aromas with 2011 Alc 13.5% and then in tanks, and undergoes fruit aromas with a dash of oak reasonably intense broad great clarity and minerality. £19-£22.50 AG Wines, Berry Bros Villa Maria, Keltern malolactic fermentation; the use of new – stylish. Good depth of fruit flavours. A good expression Rich, dense, very concentrated & Rudd, Hedonism, New Zealand Vineyard, Hawke’s Bay, New oak is minimal. It’s a very concentrated, on the palate with lemony of Chardonnay with excellent palate showing firm acidity, House of Wine, The Wine Society, Zealand 2013 * mineral wine, with a light phenolic edge. acidity and length. Made to oak balance. Drink 2015-2022 grip and extract. Admirable Winedirect £19.30 Hatch Mansfield But production is tiny, often under 1,000 evolve, with a fine future. Alc 13.5% tension and persistence. Alc 14% Alc 13.5% bottles, and this scarcity also contributes Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13% Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13% to the cult status of the Bell Hill wines. ­

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By Farr, Geelong, Victoria, Crystallum, Clay Shales, Overberg, Giaconda, Beechworth, Victoria, Leeuwin Estate, Art Series, Margaret Australia 2012 South Africa 2013 Australia 2011 River, Western Australia 2010 £39-£50 Carruthers & Kent, Exel Wines, Highbury Vintners, Liberty Wines, £24-£28 Exel Wines, HarperWells, Hatton & Edwards, Hawkshead Wines, £90-£95 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Hedonism, Noel Young, Woodwinters £55-£64 Fortnum & Mason, Four Walls, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Hawkshead Oz Wines, The Fine Wine Co, The Vineking, Winedirect Hedonism, Selfridges, SH Jones, Slurp, Starmore Boss, The Drinkshop, The Secret A mix of fruit and bacon on the nose with well-judged ripeness. Rich, Wines, Hedonism, Jeroboams, L’Assemblage, Oz Wines, Secret Cellar, Cellar, The Wine Reserve, The Vineking, Winedirect, Wright Wine Co Selfridges, SH Jones, Slurp, Uncorked, WineDirect, Woodwinters Elegantly oaked nose with some tropical fruit, mango and lime. Good full-bodied, very ripe and toasty palate – a full-throttle style with power depth of complexity with the oak blended in, and ripe Suave, silky and concentrated, this has a spiciness and and a good deal of oak, yet it has a lemony freshness and Fine floral and light citrus fruit on the nose with a hint of green pea. fruit but excellent acidity to balance. A full and distinct minerality that gives real complexity. Rounded lovely balance. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% This is quite exciting with beautifully fresh acidity somewhat exotic style yet has tension and complexity. fruit on the palate with impressive weight and nice lift backing the intensity of fruit on the palate. Exceptional Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% of acidity to follow the rich flavours. Impressive quality AFTER A DECADE studying and working in persistence on the finish. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14% with a good future. Drink 2015-2024 Alc 13.5% California, Rick Kinzbrunner returned to his GARY FARR HAS worked countless in native Australia to seek out the right spot to plant PERTH BUSINESSMAN DENIS Horgan was Burgundy and is steeped in its traditions and PETER FINLAYSON CUT his teeth at Hamilton a vineyard. He found it in the remote Beechworth encouraged by California’s to practices. Yet he knows well that Geelong isn’t Russell, the first estate in coastal Hemel-en-Aarde area in northern Victoria, where Brown Brothers plant vineyards in Margaret River in the 1970s. the same place as Beaune. A decade ago his to specialise in Burgundian varieties. He left to had planted many of its vineyards. He liked the The vines went into the ground from 1975 and Chardonnays were quite big and tropical, and produce his own wines under the Bouchard clay and gravel soils, especially a sector with 1979 was the first vintage. Within a few years he was producing that style because he Finlayson label, and throughout the 1990s and significant content of decomposed granite and Leeuwin had become the grandest of Margaret despaired of making the more Burgundian 2000s released citric, finely tuned quartz. From 1982 he planted an old Penfolds River wineries making a range of majestic style that was closer to his heart. ‘It’s Chardonnays in particular. In 2007 his sons clone of Chardonnay with small berries at a wines, principally and impossible to sell tight, elegant Puligny-style Andrew and Peter-Allan, who had initially high-lying, south-facing site. He was soon Chardonnay. Art Series, launched in 1980, is Chardonnay,’ he once told me. ‘You can’t pursued other careers, teamed up to create making a wine that was widely regarded as the top tier, made from the oldest vines that give it away, especially if you’ve given it Crystallum Wines, also specialising in one of Australia’s finest. Barrel-fermented, produce small berries and very concentrated some bottle age before release.’ His Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Their Agnes it goes through full malolactic fermentation. juice. After some skin contact the wine is Chardonnay has always been a hefty wine, Chardonnay (which did not shine in this Although Kinzbrunner only uses one-third fermented in mostly new barrels, with some fermented with natural and given full tasting) is a full-bodied blend from various new oak, the wine usually comes over as lees stirring. Leeuwin used to encourage malolactic fermentation before being aged vineyards, and their top wine is this, the toasty and powerful, even though he does malolactic fermentation but no longer does in one-third new barriques. This 2012 Clay Shales, which comes from a single his best to reduce those characters by so. The result, demonstrated over three demonstrates a greater finesse and vineyard 300m in altitude and facing south, ageing the wine in his cool, underground decades, is a magnificent, limpid, complex complexity than in the past. With which in South Africa implies extreme cellar for up to 22 months. This 2011 was Chardonnay, with broad shoulders but rarely Australian as well as international tastes coolness. The shale and clay soils give the acclaimed with even more than the usual showing excessive oak or heft. (This is a shifting to a sleeker style of Chardonnay, wine a striking minerality. enthusiasm by the press, wine I once confidently placed in Burgundy Farr’s lament can be consigned to the past. and with good reason. during a blind tasting in Australia.)

De Bortoli & Shelmerdine, Phi, Failla, Haynes Vineyard, Coombsville, Ramey, Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection, Lusatia Park Vineyard, Yarra Valley, California, USA 2012 Coast, California, USA 2010 Elgin, South Africa 2012 Victoria, Australia 2007 £28.35 DeFine Food & Wine, Flint £49-£56 Swig, Woodwinters £32 Berry Bros & Rudd Fine florality with citrus overtones and good natural richness of fruit. Hefty, oaky nose, with apple compote and apricots. Bright attack, Fine, dried herbs and honey nose with fresh summer fruits. Reasonably £25 North South Wines Rich but precise palate, with ample ripe apple and apricot fruit, and fresher than the nose, concentrated with intense acidity. There is quite a full bodied with attractive acidity and the fruit and oak in harmony. Crystalline nose of mango and tropical fruit with some fresh citrus. This balancing acidity. Impressive persistence and lovely substantial oak component but I would tip the fruit to This has a welcome severity and complexity on the finish, continues on to the palate which has good lift and aromatics. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.9% win with further ageing. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.5% which shows some minerality. Drink 2015-2024 length and well-judged oak blending in. A ripe wine but Alc 13.5% not over-exotic. Impressive. Drink 2015-2019 Alc 12% IT MAY SURPRISE some to find Ehren Jordan’s DAVID RAMEY IS one of California’s best and Failla label among our top tier of Chardonnays. most respected winemakers. In the early 1990s he BRITISH-BORN MASTER OF Wine Richard Kershaw DE BORTOLI IS a large company that has a dual For many years Jordan was the winemaker for was the winemaker at Dominus, and then at was winemaker for Mulderbosch before setting up identity. Its main winery is located in Griffith, Turley, a winery that specialised in and Rudd. But for over a decade he has run his own his own project in Elgin in 2011. This is South where, among other wines, it Petite . These were mainly super- winery, sourcing fruit from outstanding Africa’s coolest wine region and is well known for produces its celebrated botrytis Semillon called concentrated, high-alcohol wines that divided vineyards. Setting up his own label allowed him its , though it has also produced Noble One. At the same time it owns extensive the critics. Many admired them; others found to return to his first love: making Chardonnay. excellent Chardonnay. Kershaw is very clear vineyards in the Yarra Valley, where Steve them undrinkable. The heyday of this style at Ramey makes no apology for the fact that likes about the style of wine he wishes to make, and Webber, who is married to Leanne De Bortoli, Turley was in the 1990s, and in recent years a full-bodied, ripe expression of Chardonnay, places great emphasis on his selection of makes the wines. Phi is a joint venture the wines have been far better balanced. and he is not one of the winemakers striving Burgundian clones and on the sourcing of established in 2002 between Webber and the Jordan left Turley in 2013 and now focuses to produce an ultra-lean Burgundian style. from individual plots with distinctive grape-farming Shelmerdine family, which on his own property 430m up in the Platt Vineyard is a very cool site, just a few soil types. His Chardonnay is picked by owns a vineyard located on red basalt soils Sonoma Coast highlands, where he has miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is the hand, whole-bunch pressed, and handled by along Lusatia Park Road in the Upper Yarra planted Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, source of the wine many consider Ramey’s gravity without pumping. The wine is barrel- Valley. Planted to a high density in 1985, which he farms organically. Jordan also top Chardonnay, in which the intensity of fermented with indigenous yeasts and this well-drained, high-elevation vineyard is buys fruit from favourite vineyards, and fruit is balanced by excellent acidity, malolactic fermentation is discouraged, thus considered the Yarra’s finest. this Chardonnay is sourced from the resulting in a wine of great vibrancy. The retaining the wine’s natural acidity. This is unremarkable: whole-bunch , Haynes Vineyard in Coombsville, a cool vintage tasted was 2010, and the wine wine spent 10 months in 40% new barrel-fermentation with natural yeasts, area in southern Napa. The vines were showed little sign of maturity, and is still Burgundian oak, although 10% of the crop is malolactic fermentation, light stirring, and planted in 1966. The inaugural vintage was hitting its stride. fermented and aged in steel.­ ageing in barrels for nine months – but the 2011, which was entirely barrel-fermented, wine is beautifully poised and focused, a but in 2012 Jordan vinified part of the juice reflection of site rather than technique. in concrete eggs. Just 500 cases were made.

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Runners-up Top wine of the tasting Ca’ del Bosco, Curtefranca, Tawse, Estate, Niagara Peninsula, Martinborough Vineyard, Martinborough Lombardy, Italy 2010 Ontario, Canada 2011 Terrace, Martinborough, New Zealand 2012 £60-£70 Fortyfive10, Hedonism N/A UK www.tawsewinery.ca Fine, bright colour with beautiful floral elements, elegance Ripe citrus and pineapple aromas – quite exotic with an N/A UK www.martinborough-vineyard.co.nz and concentration. Lean attack has precision and tension, attractive florality. Good attack, with concentrated fruit Finely expressed summer fruits nose with hints of lime and apple. Perfectly poised on showing fine, lemony acidity. The oak adds a touch of and high acidity, showing real intensity and pungency. coconut but it is discreet. Very individual and persuasive. Discreet, fresh and very persistent. An extremely classy the palate with a certain raciness and also quite mineral. In balance, with natural fruit, Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13% wine. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13% citrussy richness, fine oak and a long finish. Drink 2015-2020 Alcohol 13%

MAURIZIO ZANELLA HAD plenty FINANCIER MORAY TAWSE IN 1980 THERE wasn’t much going on in the months, with occasional lees-stirring. It went of his industrialist father’s founded his eponymous wine small town of Martinborough, other than sheep through full malolactic fermentation and Mason money to work with when he estate in 2005. It is located in farming, so soil scientist Dr Derek Milne and his showed a light touch with new barrels, using established this winery on the the Vineland distict of the brother Duncan could name their vineyard after only 20%. Acidity is rarely a problem in New family estate in . Niagara wine region. At first he the settlement where they began to plant. Zealand, so it comes as no surprise that the But the ebullient Zanella is no worked closely with the French- They and their fellow investors were intrigued wine shows an invigorating raciness and mere playboy. He set his sights Canadian winemaker Pascal by a study made in 1978 which argued that the minerality, while the discreet oak influence is high and spared no expense in Marchand, who had established Martinborough district had excellent potential there to support the structure of the wine rather building a superb winery – forget a firm reputation for full-bodied for Burgundian varieties. The well-drained soils than impart strong oak flavours that would Maurizio Zanella the helipad and focus instead on Paul Pender Burgundies at Domaine de la and dry autumns seemed to offer ideal conditions. detract from the purity of fruit. the magnificent underground Vougeraie in Nuits-St-Georges. The Milnes were initially more interested in Despite the early interest in Pinot Noir, it ageing cellars for his sparkling wines. He studied in Bordeaux After leaving Vougeraie in 2006, Marchand pursued a career as a Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, and their Pinot seems this Chardonnay is every bit as fine. D and Beaune for two years, and knew exactly what he was trying consultant and roving winemaker and from 2011 he and Tawse plantings are Martinborough’s oldest. Early to do. First, he developed a range of joined forces to create a negociant house in vintages would prove controversial as wine first-rate, traditional-method sparkling Burgundy, Marchand Tawse. As Tawse had authorities rejected them for lack of , but wines, including arguably Italy’s finest also acquired the 5ha Domaine Maume in from 2000 onwards the Pinots showed fine prestige cuvée, Annamaria Clementi. He 2012, Marchand was able to draw on those complexity, texture and balance. also became one of Italy’s first producers of and other Tawse-owned sites for the The brothers were also interested in Riesling, serious Pinot Noir from five Burgundian Marchand Tawse wines. With Marchand’s and Chardonnay. Their winemaker clones. Ca’ del Bosco also produces a growing involvement in Burgundian between 1986 and 1999, the celebrated Larry Carmenere and a Bordeaux-style blend ventures, he ceased to consult for the McKenna from Australia, made the most of the named in honour of Zanella. Niagara winery. For many years Tawse’s vineyard’s potential, and his 1998 Chardonnay Burgundy also supplied the raw chief winemaker has been former won Champion Wine of the Show at the 1999 material for the estate’s Chardonnay, carpenter, Paul Pender. Some 30,000 cases Air Awards. McKenna was which is grown on stony soils near the are produced each year. succeeded by Claire Mulholland, and since 2007 winery at a density of 10,000 vines per The property is a large one, with 80ha the winemaker has been Paul Mason. hectare. The vines are now over 30 planted and the vineyards farmed This Martinborough Terrace Chardonnay years old. After harvesting, the organically and biodynamically. All 2012 was picked by hand and whole-bunch bunches are chilled and then – a grapes are handpicked and processed pressed, before being fermented with indigenous Ca’ del Bosco speciality – washed in a gravity-operated winery. Pender yeasts in French oak, where it remained for 12 and dried in an air-tunnel before makes a number of single-vineyard being pressed and decanted into Chardonnays as well as this Estate new French oak for fermentation. bottling. Here, grapes from It stays in wood for at least eight vineyards in the 20 Mile Bench months, undergoes full malolactic sub-region are whole-bunch pressed fermentation, and is stirred and fermented in barriques with regularly. The wine is then given minimal intervention. Malolactic long bottle ageing before release. fermentation is not induced, but if a Ca’ del Bosco has established a wine feels like losing some malic good track record for its acidity, that’s fine with Pender. No Chardonnay, even though it tends new oak is used and after 12 months to be overshadowed by the superb in barrels without lees-stirring, the sparkling wines and spends a further six months blend. I’ve tasted many vintages on fine lees in tanks before being from 1987 to 2000, and it has bottled. The cellars are covered always shown a fine balance of with earth, so as to maintain a weight, oakiness and intensity of constant temperature and humidity fruit. Undeniably rich, it is always level (about 85%), providing ideal free of heaviness and has gained ageing conditions for wines in in finesse over the years. barrel. Only 6,500 bottles were filled. Above: sweeping views of the Martinborough Vineyards estate, and winemaker Paul Mason (top)

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