Designing Contemporary Fashion Footwear Using Traditional Punjabi Jutti Motifs and Their Consumer Preferences
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DOI: 10.15740/HAS/AJHS/13.1/158-170 e ISSN-0976-8351 Visit us: www.researchjournal.co.in Research Paper Asian Journal of Home Science Volume 13 | Issue 1 | June, 2018 | 158-170 Designing contemporary fashion footwear using traditional Punjabi Jutti motifs and their consumer preferences Amanjot Kaur and Harminder Kaur Saini Received: 21.12.2017; Revised: 29.03.2018; Accepted: 16.04.2018 ABSTRACT : Punjab, the prosperous state of India has rich cultural heritage. It is the land of vivacity and vitality, exuding warmth and energy through its prosperity and multi- coloured folk culture. Art and craft of Punjab is described as a creation or expression of something beautiful especially in visual form. Among these, the Jutti is one of styles of footwear that has continuously evolved due to numerous influences from near and far. Juttis come in many variations according to regional tradition, period and shoemaker and are adapted according to the environment and materials.For this study forty motifs/designs of traditional Punjabi Jutti were documented from leading stores of local markets of Muktsar and Fazilka, internet, books and magazines etc. through photographs out of which ten Jutti motifs/designs were selected for developing ten designs of footwear with seven style variations of each through CAD. Preferences regarding the developed footwear were taken from 90 respondents, which shows that footwear design A1,B4, C2, D6, E5, F5, G1, H7, I2and J2with first rank were selected out of seven style variations of each design. Footwear designs A C D F G and H were top six ranked designs. It was found that See end of the paper for authors’ affiliations 1, 2, 6, 5, 1 7 footwear design C was given first rank with mean score of 6.86 on the basis of all the parameters. Amanjot Kaur 2 Department of Fashion KEY WORDS: Traditional Punjabi Jutti, Footwear, Design, Respondents, Most preferred Designing, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural HOWTO CITE THIS PAPER : Kaur, Amanjot and Saini, Harminder Kaur (2018). Designing contemporary University, Ludhiana (Punjab) fashion footwear using traditional Punjabi Jutti motifs and their consumer preferences. Asian J. Home Sci., India 13 (1) : 158-170, DOI: 10.15740/HAS/AJHS/13.1/158-170. Copyright@ 2018: Hind Agri-Horticultural Email : [email protected] Society. unjab has a rich tradition in art and craft and is made up of leather with elaborate embroidery, in real popular for its culture, cuisine and history. Design gold and silver threads. Due to change in fashion, now a Pand intricacy of traditional crafts of Punjab are day’s, Juttis with rubber sole are available in different well known all over the world. Different types of styles. Today Amritsar, Muktsar and Patiala (“Tilla Jutti”) handicrafts are manufactured in Punjab and were are important trade centers for handcrafted Juttis and exported all over the country. These handicrafts depicts are exported all over the world to Punjabi diaspora the richness of the land. The people of Punjab weave (Anonymous, 2011). In order to keep pace with diversity their skill into the footwear, daily dresses, carpets and of modern generation demand, more flexible, dynamic almost every other thing (Anonymous, 2013). During and versatile technique like CAD has developed. olden days, in North India and neighbouring regions, the Innovation of computers and further development of Jutti or Punjabi Jutti is common footwear, traditionally software’s for designing has eased the work of designers, HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY Amanjot Kaur and Harminder Kaur Saini as they can visualize their creation prior to construction simpler, therefore the designing of the footwear have (Banerjee, 1995). CAD system is merely a tool and it been developed on Corel Draw X4. cannot replace the primary skill of the designer, but it Documented and selected Juttimotifs were shown will help to elaborate the imagination and increase the in plate number 1and 2. The selected 10 Jutti motifs work efficiency (Chhajed, 1998). were used for designing footwear. Thus, total ten footwear designs with further seven style variations of Objectives : each design were developed (Fig. 1 and 2). The present study has been undertaken with the Total ten footwear designs with further seven style following objectives: variation of each design were developed through Corel – To document different motifs used in traditional Draw X4 and assigned different codes (Table 1). Punjabi Jutti. – To adapt selected Jutti motifs for developing Preferences for developed footwear designs : contemporary footwear designs In Table 2, it is shown that one out of seven variations of each design was selected. The results elicited that the design A got the first rank with mean score of RESEARCH METHODS 1 4.76 followed by design A which got second rank with Different types of motifs/designs used in traditional 2 mean score of 4.56. Similarly design B and B got first Punjabi Jutti were documented from leading stores/shops 4 3 and second rank with mean score of 5.56 and 5.27, of local markets of Muktsar and Fazilka (being one of respectively. Design G and F also got the first rank the important centres for handcrafted Juttis), internet, 1 5 with mean score of 5.25 and 5.40. Footwear design C books and magazines etc. through photographs. These 2 and E with mean score of 5.23 and 5.07 were given were given code numbers from 1-40. After that, 10 motifs 3 first rank, respectively. Design H , I and J got the first were selected by panel of 15 judges comprising faculty 7 7 2 rank with mean score of 5.11, 5.02 and 5.07, respectively. members and PG students of the Apparel and Textile Footwear design J and I with mean score of 5.07 and Science. Then, these selected motifs were adapted for 2 7 4.90 were given first rank, respectively. Design D and developing new designs of footwear. Different designs 1 E got the second rank with mean score of 4.81 and of footwear were developed in different style/shape using 4 5.06, respectively. Footwear design F , G and H with selected Jutti motifs. These designs were developed 4 3 2 mean score of 4.57, 5.23 and 5.02 were given second through computer aided designing (CAD) using Corel rank, respectively. Design C and D got the second rank Draw X4. While designing footwear, different motifs 4 1 with mean score of 5.05 and 4.81, respectively. were simulated, enlarged and reduced in size with the going girls for the developed designs of footwear. Preferences of the respondents for ten selected footwear designs : RESEARCH FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION The preferences of the respondents for ten selected The results obtained from the present investigation first ranked footwear designs were taken to know the as well as relevant discussion have been summarized top ranked six designs which would be used for under following heads : preparation. The data presented in Table 3 shows that design C2 got the first rank with mean score of 6.86 Documentation of traditional Punjabi Jutti motifs : followed by design F5 which was given second rank with The use of computer aided softwares in the field of mean score of 6.42. Design A1 with mean score 6.27 designing has increased the productivity of the designers was given third rank by the respondents. Fourth and fifth by improving the quality of design, communications ranks were given to design G1 and D6 with mean score through documentation, and by creating a database for of 6.23 and 5.98, respectively. Design H7 got the sixth manufacturing (Nrayan, 2008). Computer aided designing rank with mean score of 5.87, respectively. ia an important industrial art extensively used in development of two dimensional and three dimensional Details of developed designs of footwear : compositions which in turn enhances the understanding Design A1(Plate 1) : and clarity of the concept and make the accomplishment It was golden wedge heel party footwear in off Asian J. Home Sci., 13(1) June, 2018 : 158-170 159 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY Designing contemporary fashion footwear using traditional Punjabi Jutti motifs & their consumer preferences white satin fabric with closed toe, having an abstract Design A2(Plate 1) : design made in golden zari. Magenta, turquoise and green It was black high heel open toe footwear, having colour silken threads was used for embroidery to highlight abstract design in golden Tilla. Magenta, turquoise and some parts of design. It was designed from Jutti motif green colour silken threads were used for embroidery. It 33. was designed from Jutti motif 33. Table 1 : Codes assigned to different footwear designs Design A3(Plate 1) : Footwear Style variation Footwear Style variation It was white and black closed toe footwear design code code design code code completely designed with abstract design in golden Tilla. A A F F 1 1 Magenta, turquoise and green silken threads were used A2 F2 for embroidery. It was designed from Jutti motif 33. A3 F3 A4 F4 Design A4(Plate 1) : A5 F5 It was black high heel closed toe footwear in black A6 F6 satin fabric with abstract design in golden Tilla, Magenta, A7 F7 turquoise and green colour embroidery with silken B B1 G G1 threads were used. It was designed from Jutti motif 33. B2 G2 Design A (Plate 1) : B G 5 3 3 It was magenta medium heel footwear with closed B G 4 4 back, side cut and open toe with golden Tilla embroidery, B5 G5 magenta, turquoise and green silken threads were used B6 G6 for embroidery. Base fabric used for embroidery was B7 G7 off white satin fabric.