Asian Journal of Home Science (June, 2010) Vol. 5 No. 1 : 170-175 Research Paper : Dying art of Punjabi jutti in Patiala PRABHJOT KAUR AND RUBY JOSEPH Accepted : May, 2010 ABSTRACT Patiala, the cultural window of Punjab has gorgeous works to offer in the form of ostentations- Phulkari and colorful ornamented Punjabi Jutti. This study is an attempt to find out the present status of Punjabi Jutti of Patiala, changes and problems faced by the Jutti makers. Data were collected by See end of the article for interview cum survey method from 100 shoe makers in and around Patiala. Data were analyzed and authors’ affiliations tabulated. With modernization and machines taking over most manufacturing activities, Punjabi Jutti has undergone lot of changes in raw materials, colour, ornamentation products and procedures, Correspondence to: threads, price and manufacturing process. Different problems faced by shoemaker community of PRABHJOT KAUR Patiala are high cost of raw material, shortage of skilled labour, no direct export of Jutti, decrease in Department of Extension demand and bad financial conditions of the workers. Government has tried to revitalize this dying art Education, Punjab by opening CRC, Footwear Design and Development Institute (FDDI) in Patiala under United Agricultural University, Development Programme but consistent efforts made by them has not reaped results as expected. LUDHIANA (PUNJAB) Hence, it is important to recognize, admire and buy these “exquisite pieces of art” and encourage the INDIA Jutti makers. Key words : Changes, Problems, Remedies, Punjabi Jutti atiala, the princely city of Punjab located in sampling technique were used to select 100 shoemakers Pthe South East part of the state, is famous for its turban, from in and around Patiala. The raw data collected were paranda, peg, jutti and Patialashai Salwars. Traditional classified on the basis of respondents, coded (in the form Punjabi Jutti in golden colour with profuse ornamentation of frequencies) and tabulated (in percentage) and these speaks of gorgeousness in unmistakable tone. Punjabi Jutti were then presented in the form of graphs and tables. with intricate patterns are made in parts of Punjab-Patiala, Sheesh Mahal museum of Patiala was visited. Malerkotla, Muktsar, Ludhiana, Malout, Fazilka, Faridkot and Abohar(Kipling,1985). Patiala’s ‘Tilla Jutties’ also FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION known as Patiala Shahi Jutti is linked to princely days. Handicraft is an expression of the human spirit in These jutti were believed to be the relics of the reign of material form which gives delight to mankind. Every state the Khilji and Lodhi, Kings of Delhi. These ‘pieces of has a distinctive handicraft which speaks of its culture art’ are an inseparable part of Punjabi attire and are popular ex- Punjabi Jutti of Patiala is valued not so much for the traditional footwear which essentially complement Indian soundness of leather but for the beauty of ornamentation ethic or Indian casual wear perfectly. (Randhawa, 1960) (Mehta, 1960). Most of the respondents or Punjabi Jutti It encapsules cultural diversity, local ethos and ethnicity makers were in the age group of 30-40 years. (Kohli,2002). Therefore, the present study was undertaken Regarding the age of respondents (Fig. 1) 50% were with the following specific objectives : to study the changes in age group of 30-40 years. in Punjabi Jutii of Patiala in relation to raw material, Regarding education (Fig. 2), it can be seen that manufacturing process, ornamentation, designs and (80%) were illiterate and (15%) were educated up to colours, to study the problems faced by Jutti makers and Primary School only. industry as a whole, to critically analysise the efforts made Majority of the respondents i.e. 95% were Hindu by Punjab Government to revive the trade of Jutti making chamar and rest (5%) were Muslims (Fig. 3). Harijans and to give suggestions for revitalization of this lying art from Rajasthan were mainly involved in Punjabi Jutti of Punjabi Jutti making. making. Majority of respondents i.e. 80% had nuclear families while 20% had joint families. Nuclear family had METHODOLOGY 4-6 members who preferred freedom and independence, Survey, interview, questionnaire and observation while joint families had 15-20 members as they preferred methods were selected for conducting this study. Random to work together. •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• PRABHJOT KAUR AND RUBY JOSEPH 171 PERCENTAGE PERCENTAGE 500 500 455 455 0 40 400 5 35 355 0 30 300 5 25 255 200 200 Percentage 155 155 100 100 Percentage of respondents 55 55 00 00 20-3020-30 30-4030-40 440-500-50 5050-60-60 6060-70-70 33000-4000000-4000 404000-500000-5000 55000-6000000-6000 Age Income per month (Rs.) Fig. 1 : Distribution of respondents according to age Fig. 4 : Distribution of respondents according to their income PERCENTAGE years while they were indirectly involved since 2 year of age (Fig. 5). 800 70% of the respondents worked in the rented areas 700 600 where the range of rent was Rs. 500-1000 per month. 500 While 30% had their own place. 90% of them had financed 400 their business themselves while 10% had taken loan from 300 bank. Majority of them (95%) were working for 210 100 Percentage of respondents 00 PERCENTAGE Illitrate Primary level Midd level High level educated educated educated Education Fig. 2 : Distribution of respondents according to their 900 educationhal level 800 700 600 500 400 PERCENTAGE 300 200 Percentage of respondents 100 455 00 400 BEBelowLOW 1 010 10 10TO to15 15 1515 TO to 20 20 355 Age 0 30 Fig. 5 : Distribution of respondents on the basis of age at 255 200 which they started learning jutti making 155 100 55 Percentage of respondents 0 shopkeepers or exporters on daily payment basis. 0 2 TO 6 7 TO 10 11 TO15 16 TO 20 2 to 6 7 to 10 11 to 15 16 to 20 With modernization and machines taking over for No. of family members most manufacturing activities, change has been seen in Fig. 3 : Distribution of respondents on the basis of number the making of Punjabi Jutti, shortage of leather, no subsidy of family members and VAT on items, use of machines, less demand of Jutti due to less publicity, Jutti no longer used as daily wear 50% of the shoemakers had comparatively less and less profit margins are some reasons for decline in income i.e. 3000-4000 rpm and only a 10% had income its popularity (Fig. 6). of Rs. 6000-7000 per month (Fig. 4). In Patiala, raxin pasting and stitching Juttis are now Majority of respondents had learned the art of Jutti being made while leather stitching Jutti are generally made making from their ancestors which being a family tradition by around 10 juttimakers and rest are brought from (95%) while 5% of respondents learnt this art from other Fazilka, Abohar, Muktsar in Punjab and Rewari in shoemakers. Most of the respondents (85%) had started Haryana. Machine and hand embroidered upper parts of learning the trade of Jutti making at the age of 10-15 Juttis are mostly made in Sanaur village near Patiala. In [Asian. J. Home Sci., June, 2010 Vol. 5 (1)] •HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY• 172 DYING ART OF PUNJABI JUTTI IN PATIALA PERCENTAGE 100100 9090 8080 7070 6060 5050 4040 Percentage 3030 2020 1010 00 Leather Mechanisation Less No Introduction Less shortage demand subsidy of vat profit Reasons for changes Fig. 6 : Distribution of respondents on the basis of reasons for changes in jutti making Fig. 8 : Tools used for raxine Punjabi Jutti Sanaur, women are mainly engaged in hand embroidery Panna outermost part but now mainly raxin is used. For while men are involved in machine embroidering the upper Astar (interning), cow hide was used but now foam is part of Juttis. Machine Jutti embroidery business had generally used (Fig. 9). Thick Puran was generally made started about 5-6 years back here (Fig. 7). of cow and calf hide but now canvas is mainly used. Goat Different types of tools used for Jutti making have and sheep skin were used for piping (kor) nut now mainly raxine varieties are used. Sole of Jutties were made either PREVIOUS NOW PREVIOUS NOW 100 100 90 90 1000 80 80 900 70 70 800 60 60 700 50 50 600 40 40 500 30 30 400 20 20 Percentage 300 Percentage of respondents 10 10 200 0 0 0 10 HandHAND MACHINE Machine 00 Embroidery type Hides Skins Raxine Canvas Foam Sole rubber Raw materials Fig. 7 : Distribution of respondents on the basis of embroidery type Fig. 9 : Distribution of respondents on the basis of raw materials been given in Table 1 and presented in Fig. 8. The raw materials used for making Jutti have of buffalo or oxen hide but now sheet sole rubber is being undergone changes. Earlier only buffalo, cow, sheep, calf mainly used. In leather Juttis, sutli or dor were used to and sambher hides were used but now as leather is rare stitch the upper part to lower portion of Jutties but in pasting commodity in Patiala, raxin, velvet Japani, canvas, Jutti polyester or cotton thread is used to attach piping to hardboard, sheet sole (rubber), leather board which are the upper piece with the help of machine (Fig. 10). imported from Delhi are mainly used. Different raxin Earlier Maida paste and oilseed cake paste were varieties are available – Taiwan, Aero plane pillow, generally used for binding but now rubber adhesive PU Drammer, Milar, Marble, Crepe, Soft foam, Ice nappa, (Poly unloroprene) are generally used. Leather nappa, Nappa, Capsule foam, Wrinkles and Colours, earlier preferred were black, gold, silver, Gumeri, foam etc., out of which Taiwan is of good quality cream and brown but as leather dyes and raxine colour and most commonly used.