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University of Cincinnati ! "# $ % & % ' % !' !" # $ % & ' ( " ' "# ' '% $$(' ) (" *+ , -./*+ TheArchaeologyofFoodinAthens: TheDevelopmentofanAthenianUrbanLifestyle Athesissubmittedtothe GraduateSchool OftheUniversityofCincinnati Inpartialfulfillmentofthe requirementsforthedegreeof MasterofArts IntheDepartmentofClassics oftheCollegeofArtsandSciences 2010 By W.FlintDibble B.A.,Classics UniversityofPennsylvania,Philadelphia,PA,2004 CommitteeChair:KathleenLynch EleniHatzaki i Abstract Athenian material culture is particularly well represented by ceramic vessels, the majority of which were used in association with food and drink. This thesis aims to explore food practices– how the Athenians stored, cooked, and consumed food– as revealed through ceramic material evidence. Athenian food practices directly relate to the economy, political system, cultic practices, and urbanization of the city itself. The topic of Athenian food practices is divided into four sections: 1) the control and use of water, 2) the supply and storage of food, 3) the processing and cooking of food, and 4) the consumption of food and drink. Athenian food practices are primarily revealed through the evidence of ceramic vessels; however, food practices are also revealed through Athenian architecture, iconography, and texts of the period. Over the course of the Classical period, Athenian food practices changed dramatically. Domestic storage of food and water became less important as urban infrastructure insured the regular availability of food and water in the urban environment. Athenian cuisine also changed dramatically. An increase in the variety of Athenian cookpots reveals the different food preparation methods utilized. An increase in the variety of Athenian food and drink consumption vessels suggests different food consumption practices. Overall, Athenian food practices are shown to be interrelated and reveal the processual development of an Athenian urban lifestyle in the Classical period. The urbanization of the city-center, the Athenian Agora, is revealed through the construction of urban infrastructure: drainage, fountains, roads, and commercial structures. The development of the Athenian Agora created a new environment to which daily activity adapted. The construction of urban space is directly related to the ceramic vessels used daily for food practices in Athens. Only through juxtaposing these two classes of evidence is the development of the Athenian urban lifestyle traced. ii Acknowledgments The topic of food in urban Athens has dominated my life for almost a year. I owe a great debt of gratitude to many individuals. First and foremost I thank my colleague and friend Kathleen Lynch. Kathleen has been by my side from the beginning to the end of this work. Her enthusiasm in the topic of Athenian life helped awaken my own interests. My thesis truly owes a great debt to Kathleen’s instructional methods, published works, and casual comments. I worry she has read this work more closely than I, and without her effort it would not be as well- researched, reasoned, or written as it is. I would also like to thank Eleni Hatzaki for her advice, encouragement, and comments. Eleni was the first to spark my interest in plain pottery. In particular, I share her prehistoric mindset and believe context and function to hold primacy in archaeological study. Her constant encouragement has kept me moving even when I did not want to. In addition, I would like to thank Steven Ellis, Gisela Walberg, Barbara Tsakirgis, Getzel Cohen, Joey Lillywhite, Bill Weir, Bea Peruzzi, Lynne Kvapil, and Sarah Lima for advice and encouragement during this process. As well, I must thank all my colleagues and friends in the UC Department of Classics. Their advice led me down avenues I had not previously considered, and their warm encouragement kept me confident at all times. I am truly happy to be a member of this community of scholars. From the bottom of my heart I would like to thank my wife Jonida Martini for her friendship. We are going through this together, and her help, advice, and love have kept me going. Our relationship truly taught me the importance of food to life. Most importantly, you distracted me from this engrossing process and helped me keep everything in perspective. Finally, I wish to thank my family. My parents were always keen on making sure I tried anything that was edible, even snails. Their interest in food has been reborn in this thesis. Their iii unwavering support and encouragement has made me the person I am today. Their lives exemplify the best of an archaeological lifestyle, and I hope that is reflected in this work. iv Table of Contents Abstract i Acknowledgments ii Table of Contents iv List of Figures vi List of Tables ix Chapter 1: The Menu: Food in Urban Athens 1 Reviewing the Ingredients 5 A Taste of Athenian Urbanism 16 Chapter 2: The Control of Water and Urbanization 23 Drainage and the Construction of the Cityscape 23 The Provision of Public Water Sources 26 Wells and Cisterns 32 Water Vessels and the Athenian Urban Lifestyle 40 Chapter 3: The Supply and Storage of Food 53 The Pragmatics of Athenian Agrarian Cult 54 The Contrast of Capacity: Rural and Urban Private Storage Practice 67 The Commercial Agora 77 The Athenian Urban Lifestyle in the 4th Century B.C.E. 86 Chapter 4: Processing and Cooking Foodstuffs 89 Sacrificial Butchering 90 Food Processing: The Commodification of Foodstuffs 93 Cooking up an Urban Cuisine 101 v Chapter 5: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry 111 Democratic Dining and Democratic Participation 112 Athenian Group Drinking Rituals 120 Plates, Bowls, and Athenian Urban Dining 127 Chapter 6: Analyzing the Recipe 133 Foodways: Living the Athenian Urban Lifestyle 135 Works Cited 139 Figures 155 Tables 193 vi List of Figures Figure 1 Athens: The Agora and its environs in the 2nd century C.E. (Thompson and Wycherley 1972, pl. 1). Figure 2 The Athenian Agora ca. 500 B.C.E. (Thompson and Wycherley 1972, pl. 4). Figure 3 The Athenian Agora at the end of the 5th century B.C.E. (Thompson and Wycherley 1972, pl. 5). Figure 4 The Athenian Agora at the end of the 4th century B.C.E. (Thompson and Wycherley 1972, pl. 6). Figure 5 The Western Pediment of the Parthenon (Hurwit 1999, 177, fig. 143). Figure 6 Slabs from the North and South sides of the Parthenon Frieze (from Brommer 1977, pl. 153). Figure 7 The West side of the Agora with the Great Drain (Francis and Vickers 1988, 164, fig. 7). Figure 8 General plan of the Industrial District (Young 1951, 136, fig. 1). Figure 9 East wall of drain from House J to House K in the Industrial District (Young 1951, 259, fig. 20). Figure 10 Sections of wells G 11:3 and G 11:8 (Shear Jr. 1993, 450, fig. 8). Figure 11 Wells and cisterns in the Athenian Agora Area (Sparkes and Talcott 1970, fig. 25). Figure 12 Average depth of Athenian wells by century (data from Camp 1977). Figure 13 Well and cistern closings by century (data from Camp 1977). Figure 14 Plan and section of the Cave Cistern System (Rotroff 1983, 259, fig. 1). Figure 15 Chronological distribution of period of use deposits (data from POU sample). Figure 16 Distribution of Persian destruction deposits in the Agora area (Shear Jr. 1993, 385, fig. 1). Figure 17 Section of well Q 21:3 showing large deposit of dug bedrock (Shear Jr. 1993, 465, fig. 9). Figure 18 Vessel-type totals found in POU sample. vii Figure 19 Vessel-type totals for Archaic deposits in POU sample. Figure 20 Vessel-type totals for Classical deposits in POU sample. Figure 21 Vessel-type totals for Hellenistic deposits in POU sample. Figure 22 Vessel-type totals from the POU deposits in Persian destruction wells (data from Shear Jr. 1993). Figure 23 The Archaic POU assemblage (drawings from Lynch’s forthcoming republication of Agora XII). Figure 24 Vessel-type totals from POU deposits dating ca. 425-390 B.C.E. (data from Young 1939; Sparkes and Talcott 1970; Shear Jr. 1975; Moore et al. 1986). Figure 25 The POU assemblage ca. 425-390 B.C.E. (drawings from Lynch’s forthcoming republication of Agora XII). Figure 26 Vessel-type totals from POU deposits dating ca. 360-260 B.C.E. (data from POU sample). Figure 27 The POU assemblage ca. 360-260 B.C.E. (drawings from Lynch’s forthcoming republication of Agora XII). Figure 28 Map of Attica (Camp 2001, 272, fig. 248). Figure 29 Attic Sacred and Agricultural Calendar with large-scale sacrifices in bold (data primarily from Mikalson 1975; Rosivach 1994; Foxhall 2007). Figure 30 Number of sacrificed animals (excluding piglets) by month in the festival calendars of the demes of Erchia, Thorikos, and Marathon (data from Rosivach 1994). Figure 31 Legraina, Palaia Kopraisia, Classical farmhouses, threshing floors, and boundary field-wall (Lohmann 1993, 46, fig. 21). Figure 32 The Princess Tower and threshing floor (Sounion area, Young 1956, 123, fig. 1). Figure 33 Athenian storage vessels (drawings from Lynch’s forthcoming republication of Agora XII). Figure 34 Fifth century B.C.E. house with store-room (marked by pithos emplacements) on the North slope of the Areopagus (Jones 1975, 83, fig. 6). Figure 35 Tentative location of the Archaic Agora (Schmalz 2006, 35, fig. 1). Figure 36 Plan of Athens, Piraeus, and Phaleron with long walls (Camp 2001, 66, fig. 63). viii Figure 37 Plan of Piraeus showing the three harbors of Kantharos, Zea, and Mounychia (Camp 2001, 295, fig. 260). Figure 38 Plan of the House of Simon the cobbler showing the odd angle used to conform to pre-existing streets and boundaries (Tsakirgis 2005, 71, fig. 5.2). Figure 39 The assemblage of burned faunal remains associated with the Altar of Aphrodite Ourania (Reese 1989, pl. 15). Figure 40 Querns, grinders, and mortars from the Athenian Agora (Sparkes 1962, pl. 4). Figure 41 Athenian cookpot assemblage (drawings from Lynch’s forthcoming republication of Agora XII).
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