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South America and Antarctica 1993
DAVID SHARMAN South America and Antarctica 1993 Thanks are due to Marcelo Scanu, Gerhard Feichtenschlager, Pavle Kozjek and Franci Savenc for their invaluable contributions. Most of the activity this year has continued to centre on the developed countries of Argentina and Chile where an increasing number of teams are producing committing big-wall routes in a variety of styles. In Peru the situation continues to improve, with Slovenians notably active this summer. Venezuela Aratitiyope Paul Ridgeway, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana and a camera crew made a difficult approach through jungle to attempt the second ascent of Boivin's 1984 route up a prominent rib on the right side of the 600m E face of this flat-topped tower. Peru - Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash Both the weather and the security situation were considerably more set tled in Peru this year with New Zealand climbers returning to the Huay huash after a long absence following the 1988 shootout. They made an attempt on the W face of Yerupaja, stopping just short of the summit. Slovenians dominated the new route scene in the Blanca where general levels of activity continued to rise. Artesonraju (6025m) On 9July 1993 Tomo Sbrizaj and Sebastian Semrajc climbed the SE face via a direct line up the triangular rock buttress to a junction with the normal route. On 18 July they returned with Borut Naglic and repeated the route, Triangle, continuing to the summit (TD+ 60°- 85° III 600m). Andre Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed the snowy SW face through seracs on the left side but it is not clear how this differs from' previous ascents of this face. -
476 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Glaciers That Our Access Was Finally Made Through the Mountain Rampart
476 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL glaciers that our access was finally made through the mountain rampart. One group operated there and climbed some of the high-grade towers by stylish and demanding routes, while the other group climbed from a hid- den loch, ringed by attractive peaks, north of the valley and intermingled with the mountains visited by the 1971 St. Andrews expedition (A.A.J., 1972. 18: 1, p. 156). At the halfway stage we regrouped for new objec- tives in the side valleys close to Base Camp, while for the final efforts we placed another party by canoe amongst the most easterly of the smooth and sheer pinnacles of the “Land of the Towers,” while another canoe party voyaged east to climb on the islands of Pamiagdluk and Quvernit. Weather conditions were excellent throughout the summer: most climbs were done on windless and sunny days and bivouacs were seldom contem- plated by the parties abseiling down in the night gloom. Two mountains may illustrate the nature of the routes: Angiartarfik (1845 meters or 6053 feet; Grade III), a complex massive peak above Base Camp, was ascended by front-pointing in crampons up 2300 feet of frozen high-angled snow and then descended on the same slope in soft thawing slush: this, the easiest route on the peak, became impracticable by mid-July when the snow melted off to expose a crevassed slope of green ice; Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk (1373 meters or 4505 feet; Grade V), a welded pair of abrupt pinnacles comprising the highest peak on this island, was climbed in a three-day sortie by traversing on to its steep slabby east wall and following a thin 300-metre line to the summit crest. -
Cerros Fitz Roy Y Torre.Pdf
Desde lo profundo CERROS FITZ ROY Y TORRE de la Tierra Andrés Kosmal1 y Fernando Miranda2 Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina EDITOR Comisión Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina (CSIGA): Gabriela Anselmi, Alberto Ardolino, Alicia Echevarría, Mariela Etcheverría, Mario Franchi, Silvia Lagorio, Hebe Lema, Fernando Miranda y Claudia Negro COORDINACIÓN Alberto Ardolino y Hebe Lema DISEÑO EDITORIAL Daniel Rastelli Referencia bibliográfica Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina. CSIGA (Ed.) Instituto de Geología y Recursos Minerales. Servicio Geológico Minero Argentino, Anales 46, II, 461 págs., Buenos Aires. 2008. ISSN 0328-2325 Es propiedad del SEGEMAR • Prohibida su reproducción Publicado con la colaboración de la Fundación Empremin Av. General Paz 5445 (Colectora provincia) Av. General Paz 5445 (Colectora provincia) Edificio 14 - 1650 - San Martín - Buenos Aires Edificio 25 - 1650 - San Martín - Buenos Aires República Argentina República Argentina www.segemar.gov.ar | [email protected] | [email protected] BUENOS AIRES - 2008 Desde lo profundo CERROS FITZ ROY Y TORRE de la Tierra Andrés Kosmal1 y Fernando Miranda2 RESUMEN Entre las montañas de la Cordillera Patagónica Austral, denominación dada a los Andes en el extremo meridional continental sudamericano, se yerguen de manera singular las rocas graníticas que componen el macizo del cerro Fitz Roy (Chaltén). Al norte del lago Viedma, en la provincia de Santa Cruz y dentro del Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, estas rocas conforman una serie de magníficas torres y agujas que, flanqueadas por la estepa patagónica al este y el Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur al oeste, constituyen una de las maravillas naturales de la República Argentina. -
Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments. -
Torre Egger's Southeast Face
Torre Egger’s Southeast Face S ilv o K a r o , Domžale Alpine Club, Yugoslavia A L L THREE OF US, Janez Jeglič, Franc Knez and I, had been to Patagonia twice before. In 1983 we had made the first ascent of the great dihedral on Fitz Roy’s east face and a new route on the Aguja Mermoz too. (A.A.J., 1984, pages 218-219). On January 16, 1986, together with three other members of a Yugoslavian expedition, we had reached Cerro Torre’s summit, having climbed a difficult new route on the east face (A.A.J., 1987, pages 114-122). Our third sojourn in Patagonia in November and December of 1986 was the most successful of all. We scaled the southeast face of Torre Egger, the impressive tower which lies in the shadow of the higher Cerro Torre. Our route was the most direct one and abounds in extreme difficulties. We stood on the top on December 7, 1986. Later in December we climbed a new route on the north face of El Mocho. On November 9, we pitched Base Camp beside the Laguna Torre. During the following days we carried food and equipment to a bivouac site at the foot of the southeast face. We had to make use of every hour of decent weather; changes are sudden and dramatic. We outwitted the weather, often walking from Base Camp to the bivouac in order to climb that same day. November 18. This was the first real day of climbing. In cascades of water and with falling snow, we climbed the first 180 meters of ice. -
Taken from Mountaineering in the Andes by Jill Neate Patagonia RGS-IBG Expedition Advisory Centre, 2Nd Edition, May 1994
Taken from Mountaineering in the Andes by Jill Neate Patagonia RGS-IBG Expedition Advisory Centre, 2nd edition, May 1994 PATAGONIA From Puerto Aisen to Punta Arenas on Magellan’s Strait, a distance of about 900 kilometres, the peaks of the Andes are quite low (few exceed 3000 metres) and rise for the most part from immense expanses of ice which maintain an average elevation of 1500 metres, and which are commonly referred to as the Patagonian ice-caps. In this region there is no distinct cordillera forming the boundary between Chile and Argentina, the various mountain chains being diffuse and not always forming the watershed. The area, which is bounded on the west by a complex series of islands, peninsulas and fiords, and on the east by a series of lakes, has been the subject of several boundary disputes and is still imperfectly surveyed. The famous explorer Alberto De Agostini wrote of this land, ‘The singular beauty of its fiords, the majesty of its mountains, the imposing vastness of its glaciers, which descend almost to the sea in a green frame of exuberant virgin forest, make of this region one of the most picturesque and enticing quarters of the globe’. At lat. 48ºS. the deep Baker Fiord on the Pacific coast is linked by the Rio Pascua to Lago San Martin to the south-east, thus constituting the only major interruption in the glacier system. The ice-cap to the north is referred to in these notes as Hielo Patagònico Norte (‘H.P.N.’); the much more extensive ice- cap to the south as Hielo Patagònico Sur (‘H.P.S.’). -
La Salle Magazine Summer 1979 La Salle University
La Salle University La Salle University Digital Commons La Salle Magazine University Publications Summer 1979 La Salle Magazine Summer 1979 La Salle University Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lasalle.edu/lasalle_magazine Recommended Citation La Salle University, "La Salle Magazine Summer 1979" (1979). La Salle Magazine. 115. https://digitalcommons.lasalle.edu/lasalle_magazine/115 This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the University Publications at La Salle University Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in La Salle Magazine by an authorized administrator of La Salle University Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. SUMMER, 1979 QUARTERLY LA SALLE COLLEGE MAGAZINE Jim Donini at 2 2 ,0 0 0 feet Robert S. Lyons, Jr., ’61, Editor James J. McDonald, ’58, Alumni News Volume 23 Summer, 1979 Number 3 ALUMNI ASSOCIATION OFFICERS Terence F. Heaney, Esq., '63, President John J. Fallon, '67, Executive Vice President Diane M. Bones, '75, Vice President Marie K. Parrott, Esq., '73, Secretary Paul J. Foley, '74, Treasurer A QUARTERLY LA SALLE COLLEGE MAGAZINE (USPS 299-940) Contents 1 PORTRAIT OF A CLIMBER Jim Donini never climbed a mountain until he was 24. Now he’s one of the world’s best. 6 LA SALLE’S NEW ALUMNI PRESIDENT Terry Heaney has some interesting theories about alumni involvement. 8 LOOK WHAT THEY’VE DONE TO MY G A M E , M A ” Women's Athletics, page 8 Women’s athletics have come a long way in less than a decade at La Salle. 14 OPEN HOUSE A photographic essay by Lewis Tanner about one of the College’s more colorful annual rituals. -
Summiting Alex Honnold Elevation & Elation
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG JUL/AUG 2015 • VOLUME 109 • NO. 4 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE Summiting for soldiers PAGE 18 Alex Honnold a world-view climber PAGE 21 Elevation & Elation thru-running the PCT PAGE 27 tableofcontents July/August 2015 » Volume 109 » Number 4 Features The Mountaineers enriches lives and communities by helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. 18 Summiting for Soldiers by Lace Thornberg 21 Alex Honnold a world-view climber 27 Elevation & Elation thru-running the PCT Columns 6 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT 18 Kristina Ciari 7 OUTDOOR EDUCATION sharing the outdoors with our kids 8 TRAIL TALK a hitchhiker’s guide to the national parks 10 NATURE’S WAY a walk through the sagebrush sea 12 IMPACT GIVING investing in traditions 14 CONSERVATION CURRENTS creating conservationists 16 OUR SECRET RAINIER memorials at Mount Rainier 30 RETRO REWIND 21 John Davis - a true lifetime member 43 LAST WORD certainty Discover The Mountaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining — or have joined and aren’t sure where Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates to start — why not set a date to Meet The Mountaineers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine for times and locations of nonprofit organizations. informational meetings at each of our seven branches. Mountaineer uses: CLEAR on the cover: Alex Honnold at the Seattle Bouldering Project. Story on page 21. -
La Travesía Del Oso Buda
AAC Publications La Travesía del Oso Buda Argentina-Chile, Chaltén Massif, Torre Group For this past season in Chaltén, my 12th trip to these mountains, Marc-André Leclerc and I blocked off three weeks together from January 15 to February 7. Marc is quite young, but already a very accomplished technical climber. He arrived in Chaltén just before the longest weather window of the season, and we headed straight for the business: a “reverse traverse” of the Torres. The original Torre Traverse, which Rolando Garibotti and I completed in January 2008 (AAJ 2008), linked Aguja Standhardt to Cerro Torre via Punta Herron and Torre Egger. In 2010, my longtime climbing partner Bjorn-Eivind Artun first illuminated the idea of a Torre Traverse in the opposite direction, starting with Cerro Torre and finishing with Standhardt. At that time there were two missing segments: a direct ice route on the south face of Torre Egger (to avoid the time-consuming aid of the American route) and the south face of Aguja Standhardt. In the 2011-2012 Patagonia season, both of the missing segments came together. That December I teamed up with Argentine climber Jorge Ackermann to complete the often-tried south face of Aguja Standhardt, naming our route El Caracol (AAJ 2012). Three weeks later, Bjorn-Eivind and Ole Lied completed the ice line up the south face of Torre Egger, creating one of the most amazing ice climbs on Earth: Venas Azules (AAJ 2012). In late January 2011, Bjorn-Eivind teamed up with Chad Kellogg for the first real attempt on the reverse traverse. -
El Area De 108 Vient08 a True First Ascent of Cerro Torre's North Face
ERMANNO SALVATERRA El Area de 108 Vient08 A true first ascent of Cerro Torre's north face hirteen long years have passed since I fust tried to climb Cerro Torre T from the north. It was in 1992 with Guido Bonvicini and Adriano Cavallaro. We made our fust attempt during October, and managed to reach the base ofthe so-called 'English Dihedral', climbed in 198 I by Phil Burke and Tom Proctor. We had climbed 550m to that point but turned back because the face was covered in snow. While we waited for better conditions, we climbed the Franco-Argentina on Fitz Roy and the Compressor on Cerro Torre. In November we made a second attempt and slept at the base of the dihedral inside the English box portaledge, left by Brian Wyvill and Ben Campbell Kelly. The following day the weather was terrible and my partners wanted to descend, but I asked them to give me at least a couple more hours to climb a little higher. I wanted to get to the Col of Conquest, and this we managed to do. I was simply curious to see it. There the storm forced us to retreat. In 1994 I made another attempt on the same route with the Austrian Tommy Bonapace. He had already tried this line half a dozen times. In the morning we left base camp and by afternoon had reached the base of the triangular snowfield, some 300m above the glacier. We were faced with a series of unfortunate events, and after an awful bivouac Tommy told me, 'Finish, Ermanno, never more.' I knew then that his relationship with this line had come to an end. -
The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger
The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger E l io O r l a n d i, Club Alpino Italiano H AVING REACHED Fitz Roy National Park on October 15, Maurizio Giarolli and I immediately headed for the triad of the Cerro Torre group: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Torre Standhardt. In climbing circles, these three peaks represent some of the most difficult objectives in the world. We had come with the idea of attempting the traverse of all three spires without descending for any reason, without outside help and without any previous route preparation. This was, frankly, an insane idea of the kind we climbers dream up, but doubtless nearly impossible to carry out, all the more so because the climate of the region with its sudden and frequent storms affect negatively about all expeditions. One must consider the objective dangers of the route as well as whether the weather would hold long enough to do the traverse. Our preparations and enthusiasm encouraged us, however, to give our adventure a try by setting out to climb Torre Stanhardt, the first of the Triad. The tremendous weight of our gear and of ten days of food needed for such an exploit and the enormous expenditure of energy that a team of two has to summon made us give up when in the teeth of a buffeting snowstorm we were only 100 meters from the summit of Torre Stanhardt. The foul weather then stuck in its little paw, notably complicating the descent. After several rest days in Base Camp, our desire to pick up that painful project never returned. -
Chaltén and Torres Del Paine
AAC Publications Chaltén And Torres Del Paine: 2019–2020 Season Summary Argentina-Chile, Southern Patagonia This was the fourth consecutive season with fairly poor weather and conditions. After several anomalously dry seasons in a row, when climbing success in this area was quite straightforward, it has come as a bit of a shock to go back to the Patagonia weather of old. The only extended windows of good weather were in February, but the conditions were challenging, with much snow, ice, and rime on the walls. Not enough is known about the area’s climate to know if the recent changes relate to inter-annual or decadal variability. Panos Athanasiadis, a European climber and climatologist, points out, “It is perfectly normal that multi-annual climate variations are very strong, and periods of one extreme are followed by years of the opposite extreme.” A recently published paper in the journal Nature shows that the poleward trend of the jet stream and the ring of low pressure that circle Antarctica—the two biggest influences upon Patagonian weather—paused around the year 2000 (Banerjee et al., 2020). This poleward trend had contributed to drier, more stable weather. The authors attribute this pause to the healing of the ozone hole, as a result of the Montreal protocol, the treaty designed to phase out the production of substances responsible for ozone depletion. Over the long term, climate models predict that increasing greenhouse gases will continue the poleward pull, but as this paper suggests, for some time the effect will be dampened by the ozone hole recovery.