The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: a Conceptual Beach Model Gerhard Masselink and Andrew D

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: a Conceptual Beach Model Gerhard Masselink and Andrew D /" { &;(/~6 ... ...- Journal of Coastal Research 785-S00 Fort Lauderdale, Florida Summer 1993 I The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: A Conceptual Beach Model Gerhard Masselink and Andrew D. Short Coastal Studies Unit Department of Geography University of Sydney Sydney, New South Wales ~:OO6,Australia ABSTRACT MASSELINK, G. and SHORT, A.D., 1993. The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morp.hology: A conceptual beach model Journal of COCI8talResearch, 9(3). 785-800. Fort Lauderdale (Flonda), ISSN 0749-0208. Natural beaches may be grouped into several beach types on the basis of breaker height (H ) wave period ('!'), hia:h tide sediment fall vel~ity (~,) and tide r8lll!e (TR). These four variables are qu:n'tified by two dlmens~onl~ par~eters: the dimensionless fall velocity (0 - HJw,T) used byWRIGHTandSHORT(1984) to classify ml~ro-tld.al beaches, and ~e !elative tide range (RTR - TR/H..) introduced in this paper. The valu~ ~f the ~Imenslo.nless fall ve~oclt~ mdicates whether reflective, intenaediate or dissipative surf zone condl.tlons will prevail. The relative tide range reflects the relative impodance of swash, surf ZODeand shoalmg wave. processes. A co~ceptual model presented in which beach morphology (beach t.nJe) may be predicted using the . i~ dimensionless fall velocity and the relative tide range, whereby the mean spring tide range (MSR) is used to cal~ulate the re!Ative tide r8lll!e. The model consists of the existing miao-tidal beach types, which as RTR I~creases, shift from reflective to low tide terrace with and finally wi&hout rips; from intermediate to low tide bar and ~~s an~ finall! ultr~-diasipative; and from barred dissipative to non-barred dissipative and finally ultra-dissipative. USing this model, all wave-dominated bead1esin all tidal ranges can be . classifil'd. ADDmONAL INDEX WORDS: Beaches and tide range, micro-tidal, maero-tidal, beach model. beach change. INTRC.DUCTION planar, moderate. wave multi '-bar, and low wave On all natural bea.ches, processes and mor- to tidal flats. .This grouping, while illustrating the phology arepredomiI1laDtly influenced by waves range of morphologies associated with macro':tid- and tide. Whereas the importance of waves is self- al beaches, is still based largely on wave height evident and well documented (WRIGHTet al., 1984, and does not enable differentiation based on tide 1985), the influence (Jlftides, though recognised range> 3 m. (e.g. WRIGHTet al.j 1987), is more subtle and less This paper addresses this problem by combin- well understood. Tide ranges have been classified ing wave height and tide range into a singledi- by DAVIES(1964) as being mlcro- « 2 m), meso- mensionless parameter, and calibrating the ap- plicability of this parameter using field data and (2-4 m) or macro-tid:al (> 6 m). Consequently, ~ beaches can be classified accordingly. .However, the literature. as DAVISand HAYES(1984) indicated, beach mor- BACKGROUND phology is not simply dependent on the absolute wave height or tide range, but on the interaction Several beach models are available to predict beach state as a function of wave and sediment of the two. " . Existing micro-tidal beach models assume a mi- parameters (SONU, 1973; WRIGHT and SHORT, 1984; SUNAMURA,1989; LIPPMANN and HOLMAN, 1990). cro-tide range « 2 D1)in the presence of oceanic waves. Therefore, they can not automatically be The models are generally representative of micro- applied to macro-tidal beach environments. SHORT tidal beaches and do not take account of the tide. (1991) addressed this problem, suggesting the mi- Numerous studies (reviewed later) have also in- vestigated the effect of tides and increasing tide cro-tide threshold be I"aisedto 3 m, and proposing range 'on beach morphodynamics. However, the a grouping of macro-tidal beaches into higher wave overall contribution of tides to beach morphology remains unresolved. 92017 received 2A:iFebruary 199)!; accepted in revuion 6 December 1992. The model of WRIGHTand SHORT(1984) is use- 787 .,.~o,.;..III"u...U -'U....... Conceptual Heach Model 'au ful hr describing the morphodynainic variability es with highl) .able tide ranges, sediment sizes tide level and the. lIebreak point and. the shoal- !«iN rw LOwI1Df of micro-tidal surf zones and beaches. This model and morphologies. In order to examine the rela- in!! wave zone extends seaward from the ~ ~IOOuvn U'YfI. tive contribution of both Hb and TR, this paper point. For each zone, an empirical relationship , describes plan and profile configurations of six ~g between the equilibrium beach gradient and wave major beach states. In addition to providing a combines and extends the ideas in WRIGHT and ~~ 75 spatial classification. the model enables~he pre~ SHORT (1984) and SHORT (1991) by considering and sediment characteristics is assumed. The sim- ~~ diction of beach change and equilibrium beach the relative effects of waves and tides on beach ulation model combines these relationships with e!j so states (WRIGHTet ai., 1984,1985). The beach states morphology. Following a suggestion in DAVISand the relative occurrences of swash. surf zone and g't: HAYES(l984:Figure 8), the relative tide range RTR shoaling wave processes for different parts on the .~; 2S. are related to wave and sediment characteristics ~:; via the dimensionless fall velocity, 0 -= Hb/w,T is introduced as a new parameter. The relative beach profile and computes an "equilibrium" .c beach profile, Input parameters to the model are 0-0 (GOURLAY.1968; DEAN. 1973), where- Hb is the tide range is given by the ratio of tide range to ~ 0.25 0.50 0.75 1.00 1.25 1.50 TR/H,J. Large values of wave height, wave period, sediment size and tide breaker height (m), w. is the sediment fall velocity breaker height (RTR = non-dimclUional dcpch rclativc 10 hilh tide IeYeI range. For more details. see MASSELINK(in press). (m/see) and T is the wave period (see). RTR indicate tide-dominance and small values Figure 1. Relative occurrence o( awash and aurl wne proceasn Figure 1 illustrates the results of the simulation - According to WRIGHT and SHORT (1984), con- express wave-dominance. over a dimenaionle.. beach profile (or relative tidr ranCeI (TRI mode] using wave height 1 m, wave period ditions when 0 < 1 result in a reflective beach A conceptual model is presented according to = = 8 H.) 0(2. 3, 5, 10 and 15 ca1culaud over half a tidal cycle (low 0.03 m/sec and vary- tide to high. tide). The importance oC awash and surC wne pro- state. The beach face will be steep and is generally which the beach state is a function of dimension- sec. sediment-fall velocity = cessea deereuea as relative tide range increases. Swuh and lurC cusp ed, and a pronounced step is usually present less fall velocity n and relative tide range RTR. ing the tide range from 2 to 15 m. It shows that the contribution of swash and surl zone processes wne proceaaes ahow a aecondary maximum oCoccurrence around at the base of the swash zone. Generally wave Beaches on the macro-tidal central Queensland low tide level, where the tide remaina relatively Il4tionary Cor height is small and beach sediments are relatively (Australia) coast and the literature are used to decreases as the relative tide range and the con- BOrne time. The relative occurrencea are calculated by . limu. coarse. Intermediate beaches have values of 0 illustrate the model. tribution of shoaling waves increases. Swash and lation model described by MASSELINK (in preaa). The input parameten to the model are wave height 1m,.ave period ranging from 1 to 6 and are characterized by bar surf zone processes always dominate the upper - - EFFEcr OF TIDES ON SURF intertidal and have a.see.ondary maximum around 8 .ee, lediment Call velocity -0.03 m/aec and tide ranee - 2,3, and rip morphology. Four different intermediate ZONE DYNAMICS 5, 10, 15 roo beach states are defin~d and with increasing 0, low tide level where the- tide level remains rela- these states are low tide terrace (LIT), transverse According to DAVIS(1985), tides playa passive tively stationary during the turn of the tide. The bar and rip (TBR), rhythmic bar and beach (RBB) or indirect role in sediment transport and changes lower part of the intertidal profile, however, may and longshore bar trough (LBT). When n > 6, in beach morphology. The primary role of the tide become completely dominated by shoaling waves to the more accentuated topography during neap the beach is in a dissipative state. On dissipative is to alternately expose and submerge a large por- for large relative tide ranges (RTR > 10). Other tides. beaches. the wave energy level is generally high. tion of the beach and the inner surf zone. The net results of the simulation model further suggest In addition, tides have three pronounced effects sediments are fine and the surf zone is wide. Sub- . result of this movement of sea level is to retard that as the contribution of shoaling waves in- on three dimensional water circulation in the dued bar morphology may be present but rips are the rate at which sediment transport and changes creases with increasing tide, beach gradient de- nearshore zone. First, in rip current systems...!iE! usually absent. in morphology take place. This may be illustrated creases (MAssELINK, in press). are strongest at low tide. when the water is suf- by the findings of DAVISet ai. (1972) who showed The dominating role of shoaling waves on ficiently shallow to concentrate the flow oC the The model of WRIGHT and SHORT (1984) was that bar migration rate decreases with increasing beaches with large relative tide ranges has been current within the rip channels (SHEPARDet 0/., developed on and for micro-tidal environments - (TR <2 m) and the tide range is not accounted tide range.
Recommended publications
  • School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology
    School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology Administration established in SOEST under the U.S.- Japan Common Pacific Ocean Science and Technology 802 Agenda. The center is jointly supported by the state, Japanese, 1680 East-West Road and federal funds. Honolulu, HI 96822 Although the Department of Ocean and Resources Engi- Tel: (808) 956-6182 neering offers several undergraduate courses, baccalaureate Fax: (808) 956-9152 degrees are not offered in this area. The Department of Web: www.soest.hawaii.edu/ Oceanography offers the BS in global environmental science. Baccalaureate degree programs are offered in the Department of Dean: C. Barry Raleigh Geology and Geophysics and the Department of Meteorology. E-mail: [email protected] Those with long-range plans for graduate work in oceanogra- phy or ocean and resources engineering should prepare Interim Associate Dean: Patricia A. Cooper themselves with an undergraduate course of study that will E-mail: [email protected] satisfy the entry requirements for admission to these graduate programs. Information on entrance and degree or certificate requirements for all SOEST graduate programs (MS and PhD General Information in geology and geophysics, meteorology, ocean and resources The School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology engineering, and oceanography, and a certificate in Graduate (SOEST) was established in 1988. It combines and integrates Ocean policy) is in this Catalog. Candidates for advanced the Departments of Geology and Geophysics, Meteorology, degrees and the graduate certificate program apply through the Ocean and Resources Engineering, and Oceanography, as well Graduate Division of the University. The school has developed as the Hawai‘i Institute of Geophysics and Planetology, the a number of interdisciplinary courses at both the undergradu- Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology, and the Hawai‘i Natural ate and the graduate levels, which are listed under OEST Energy Institute.
    [Show full text]
  • GIS Best Practices GIS for Nautical Organizations
    GIS Best Practices GIS for Nautical Organizations September 2010 Table of Contents What Is GIS? 1 GIS for Nautical Organizations 3 NOAA Modernizes Nautical Chart Production 5 Shifting Shorelines 11 A Geospatial Foundation 19 Making Standards Shipshape—Esri's Rafael Ponce Discusses Working with International Hydrographic Organizations 27 Remote Communities Prevail with GIS 33 Enterprise Product on Demand Services 43 Keeping Nature and Man in Balance 47 RAN Directorate of Oceanography and Meteorology 53 Taking NEXRAD Weather Radar to the Next Level in GIS 57 Maritime and Coastguard Agency Case Study toward a More Effi cient Tendering Process 65 NATO Maritime Component Command HQ Northwood, UK, Supporting Maritime Situational Awareness 71 i What Is GIS? Making decisions based on geography is basic to human thinking. Where shall we go, what will it be like, and what shall we do when we get there are applied to the simple event of going to the store or to the major event of launching a bathysphere into the ocean's depths. By understanding geography and people's relationship to location, we can make informed decisions about the way we live on our planet. A geographic information system (GIS) is a technological tool for comprehending geography and making intelligent decisions. GIS organizes geographic data so that a person reading a map can select data necessary for a specifi c project or task. A thematic map has a table of contents that allows the reader to add layers of information to a basemap of real-world locations. For example, a social analyst might use the basemap of Eugene, Oregon, and select datasets from the U.S.
    [Show full text]
  • The Sea Floor an Introduction to Marine Geology 4Th Edition Ebook
    THE SEA FLOOR AN INTRODUCTION TO MARINE GEOLOGY 4TH EDITION PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Eugen Seibold | 9783319514116 | | | | | The Sea Floor An Introduction to Marine Geology 4th edition PDF Book Darwin drew his inspiration from observations on island life made during the voyage of the Beagle , and his work gave strong impetus to the first global oceanographic expedition, the voyage of HMS Challenger Resources from the Ocean Floor. This textbook deals with the most important items in Marine Geology, including some pioneer work. Outline of geology Glossary of geology History of geology Index of geology articles. About this Textbook This textbook deals with the most important items in Marine Geology, including some pioneer work. This should come as no surprise. Geologist Petroleum geologist Volcanologist. Geology Earth sciences Geology. They also are the deepest parts of the ocean floor. Stratigraphy Paleontology Paleoclimatology Palaeogeography. Origin and Morphology of Ocean Basins. Back Matter Pages It seems that you're in Germany. Add to Wishlist. Marine geology has strong ties to geophysics and to physical oceanography. Some of these notions were put forward earlier in this century by A. Springer Berlin Heidelberg. They should allow the reader to comment on new results about plate tectonics, marine sedimentation from the coasts to the deep sea, climatological aspects, paleoceanology and the use of the sea floor. Uh-oh, it looks like your Internet Explorer is out of date. Back Matter Pages Coastal Ecology marine geology textbook plate tectonics Oceanography Environmental Sciences sea level. Seibold and W. The deep ocean floor is the last essentially unexplored frontier and detailed mapping in support of both military submarine objectives and economic petroleum and metal mining objectives drives the research.
    [Show full text]
  • Marine Geosciences 1
    Marine Geosciences 1 MARINE GEOSCIENCES https://www.graduate.rsmas.miami.edu/graduate-programs/marine-geosciences/index.html Dept. Code: MGS The Marine Geosciences (MGS) graduate program is focused on studying the geology, geophysics, and geochemistry of the Earth system. Students work closely with faculty at the forefront of research on sedimentary systems, earthquakes, volcanoes, plate tectonics, and past and present climate. MGS faculty and students also emphasize interdisciplinary study where geological phenomena interact with, or are influenced by, processes generally studied in other disciplines, such as ocean currents, climate, biological evolution, and even social sciences. MGS research uses pioneering remote sensing techniques to assess the Earth’s crustal movement and sedimentation in coastal zones and beyond. MGS degree programs are at the forefront of understanding carbonate depositional systems, modern and ancient reefs, and deep-sea sediments to learn more about past environmental change. Degree Programs • Post-Bachelor's Certificate (p. 1) • Offered for working professionals who seek specialization in Applied Carbonate Geology. • Requires 16 course credit hours for successful completion. • Master of Science (M.S.) • Requires 30 credit hours, including 24 course credit hours and 6 research credit hours. • Interdisciplinary studies with expertise in physics, chemistry, mathematics, and/or biology are encouraged. • Doctor of Philosophy (Ph.D.) (p. 1) • Requires 60 credit hours, including a minimum of 30 course credit hours and a minimum of 12 research credit hours. • Interdisciplinary studies with expertise in physics, chemistry, mathematics, and/or biology are encouraged. Post-Bachelor's Certificate Program The goal of the certificate program is to provide first-rate continuing education to professionals or Earth science students who aspire to become experts in carbonate geology.
    [Show full text]
  • AGY 514 – Marine Geology COURSE PARTICULARS COURSE
    AGY 514 – Marine Geology COURSE PARTICULARS Course Code: AGY 514 Course Title: Marine Geology No. of Units: 3 Course Duration: Two hours of theory and three hours of practical per week for 15 weeks. Status: Compulsory Course Email Address: Course Webpage: Prerequisite: AGY 301, AGY 304 COURSE INSTRUCTORS Dr. S. O. Olabode SEMS Building, Dept. of Applied Geology, The Federal University of Technology, Akure, Nigeria. Phone: +2348033783498 Email: [email protected] COURSE DESCRIPTION This course is an applied, final year course designed primarily for students in applied geology and other relevant disciplines. However, it also meets the need of students in other fields, as a course that provides introduction to world oceans, basic understanding in the physical, chemical and biological aspects of these oceans and various geological processes that is going on in the oceans. As a course that integrates theory and practical, the purpose is to expose the students to a better understanding of the world oceans and impart useful skills on the mineral resources of the ocean, how these minerals could be accessed and management of coastal environment. Topics to be covered include world ocean and physical, chemical and biological oceanography; physiography of world oceans; plate tectonics as it relates to oceans; ophiolite complexes; coastal processes, deep sea sediments; mineralisation in the oceans and methods of ocean floor sampling. COURSE OBJECTIVES 1 The objectives of this course are to: introduce students to the basic and applied knowledge of the world oceans; intimate the students with basic mineral resources of the world oceans and how these minerals can be exploited; and management of coastal environments in terms of pollution and natural hazards.
    [Show full text]
  • Recent Developments of Exploration and Detection of Shallow-Water Hydrothermal Systems
    sustainability Article Recent Developments of Exploration and Detection of Shallow-Water Hydrothermal Systems Zhujun Zhang 1, Wei Fan 1, Weicheng Bao 1, Chen-Tung A Chen 2, Shuo Liu 1,3 and Yong Cai 3,* 1 Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316000, China; [email protected] (Z.Z.); [email protected] (W.F.); [email protected] (W.B.); [email protected] (S.L.) 2 Institute of Marine Geology and Chemistry, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 804, Taiwan; [email protected] 3 Ocean Research Center of Zhoushan, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316000, China * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 21 August 2020; Accepted: 29 October 2020; Published: 2 November 2020 Abstract: A hydrothermal vent system is one of the most unique marine environments on Earth. The cycling hydrothermal fluid hosts favorable conditions for unique life forms and novel mineralization mechanisms, which have attracted the interests of researchers in fields of biological, chemical and geological studies. Shallow-water hydrothermal vents located in coastal areas are suitable for hydrothermal studies due to their close relationship with human activities. This paper presents a summary of the developments in exploration and detection methods for shallow-water hydrothermal systems. Mapping and measuring approaches of vents, together with newly developed equipment, including sensors, measuring systems and water samplers, are included. These techniques provide scientists with improved accuracy, efficiency or even extended data types while studying shallow-water hydrothermal systems. Further development of these techniques may provide new potential for hydrothermal studies and relevant studies in fields of geology, origins of life and astrobiology.
    [Show full text]
  • Exploring the Deep Sea and Beyond: Contributions to Marine Geology in Honor of William R
    Research Note THEMED ISSUE: Exploring the Deep Sea and Beyond: Contributions to Marine Geology in Honor of William R. Normark GEOSPHERE Exploring the deep sea and beyond: Contributions to marine geology in honor of William R. Normark (Volume II) 1 2 3 GEOSPHERE; v. 14, no. 6 Andrea Fildani , David J.W. Piper , and Dave Scholl 1The Deep Time Institute, Austin, Texas 78755, USA 2Geological Survey of Canada, Bedford Institute of Oceanography, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia B2Y 4A2, Canada https://doi.org/10.1130/GES02026.1 3Emeritus, U.S. Geological Survey 1 figure “…fatti non foste a viver come bruti, ma per seguire virtute e canoscenza....” CORRESPONDENCE: afild@ equinor .com —Dante Alighieri, Inferno XXVI CITATION: Fildani, A., Piper, D.J.W., and Scholl, “Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one D., 2018, Exploring the deep sea and beyond: Con‑ tributions to marine geology in honor of William R. can go.” —T.S. Eliot (1888–1965) Normark (Volume II): Geosphere, v. 14, no. 6, p. 2376– 2378, https:// doi .org /10 .1130 /GES02026.1. In 2011, we published the first volume dedicated to the scientific achieve- ments of William R. Normark (Fildani et al., 2011). While we were formatting Science Editor: Shanaka de Silva the volume, it became apparent that our colleagues were not done with contri- butions, as we kept receiving submissions—and for years since. A “spill-over” Received 18 June 2018 Revision received 4 July 2018 second volume in honor of Bill became necessary, and the innovative publica- Accepted 27 August 2018 tion style of Geosphere was considered well suited to receive the continuous Published online 26 September 2018 flow of submissions into 2018.
    [Show full text]
  • Naval Oceanographic Records
    1 p.2 M.a~ 10 07 11: 52a oHI GI1:J AL 22868 i: BLANK (NARA use only) REQUEST FOR RECORDS DISPOSITION AUTHORITY TO NATIONAL ARCHIVES and RECORDS ADMINISTRATION (NIR) WASHINGTON DC 20408 DATE REC FROM (Agency or estabhshrnent) In accordance With the provrsron of 44 USC Command 3303a the drsposmon request. including amendments, Is approved except for may Items that be marked "drsposmcn not 4 NAME OF PERSON WITH WHOM TO CONFER 5 TELEPHONE Riemann 228-6 8-4162 6 AGENCY CERTIFICATION 1 hereby certify that I am authorized to act for thrs agency In matters pertaining to the drspositron of ItS records and that the records proposed on the attached ~ page(s) are not now needed for the business of trus agency or will not be needed after the retention periods specifled, and that written concurrence from the General Accounting Office. under the provlsrons of Title 8 of the GAO Manual for GUidance of Federal AgenCies. IS not DATE 7. ITEM 8. DESCRIPTION OF ITEM AND PROPOSED DISPOSITION NO. SEE ATIACHMENT AJUJ tyl t..-- 115-109 NSN 7540-00·634-4064 STANDARD FORM 115 (REV 3-91) PREVIOUS EDITION NOT USABLE Prescnbed by NARA 36 CFR 1228 Naval Oceanographic Office (NAVO) proposes big bucket schedules for SSICs 3140- 3148 to replace items previously scheduled and documented in the Navy Records Management Manual, SECNAV M-5210.1, December, 2005. Records reflect scientific disciplines relative to naval oceanography disciplines. Oceanographic section below was formatted for manual survey/processing methods and radio navigation aids, last used In 1980s. Changes proposed reflect GPS navigation, internet, electronic products, and more current collection and processing software methods.
    [Show full text]
  • Manual on Hydrography
    INTERNATIONAL HYDROGRAPHIC ORGANIZATION MANUAL ON HYDROGRAPHY Publication C-13 1st Edition May 2005 (Corrections to February 2011) PUBLISHED BY THE INTERNATIONAL HYDROGRAPHIC BUREAU M O N A C O INTERNATIONAL HYDROGRAPHIC ORGANIZATION MANUAL ON HYDROGRAPHY Publication C-13 1st Edition May 2005 (Corrections to February 2011) Published by the International Hydrographic Bureau 4, Quai Antoine 1er B.P. 445 - MC 98011 MONACO Cedex Principauté de Monaco Telefax: (377) 93 10 81 40 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.iho.int © Copyright International Hydrographic Organization [2010] This work is copyright. Apart from any use permitted in accordance with the Berne Convention for the Protection of Literary and Artistic Works (1886), and except in the circumstances described below, no part may be translated, reproduced by any process, adapted, communicated or commercially exploited without prior written permission from the International Hydrographic Bureau (IHB). Copyright in some of the material in this publication may be owned by another party and permission for the translation and/or reproduction of that material must be obtained from the owner. This document or partial material from this document may be translated, reproduced or distributed for general information, on no more than a cost recovery basis. Copies may not be sold or distributed for profit or gain without prior written agreement of the IHB and any other copyright holders. In the event that this document or partial material from this document is reproduced, translated or distributed under the terms described above, the following statements are to be included: “Material from IHO publication *reference to extract: Title, Edition] is reproduced with the permission of the International Hydrographic Bureau (IHB) (Permission No ……./…) acting for the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO), which does not accept responsibility for the correctness of the material as reproduced: in case of doubt, the IHO’s authentic text shall prevail.
    [Show full text]
  • Biologic and Geologic Characteristics of Cold Seeps in Monterey Bay, California
    Deep-Ser Research I, Vol. 43, No. 1 I-12, pp. 1739-1762, 1996 Pergamon Copyright 0 1996 Elsevier Science Ltd Primed in Great Britain. All rights reserved PII: SO967-0637(96)0007~1 0967-0637/96 Sl5.00+0.00 Biologic and geologic characteristics of cold seeps in Monterey Bay, California JAMES P. BARRY,* H. GARY GREENE,*? DANIEL L. ORANGE,* CHARLES H. BAXTER,* BRUCE H. ROBISON,* RANDALL E. KOCHEVAR,* JAMES W. NYBAKKEN,? DONALD L. REEDS and CECILIA M. McHUGHg (Received 12 June 1995; in revisedform 12 March 1996; accepted 26 May 1996) Abstract-Cold seep communities discovered at three previously unknown sites between 600 and 1000 m in Monterey Bay, California, are dominated by chemoautotrophic bacteria (Beggiatoa sp.) and vesicomyid clams (5 sp.). Other seep-associated fauna included galatheid crabs (Munidopsis sp.), vestimentiferan worms (LameNibrachia barhaml?), solemyid clams (Solemya sp.),columbellid snails (Mitrellapermodesta, Amphissa sp.),and pyropeltid limpets (Pyropelta sp.). More than 50 species of regional (i.e. non-seep) benthic fauna were also observed at seeps. Ratios of stable carbon isotopes (S13C) in clam tissues near - 36%0indicate sulfur-oxidizing chemosynthetic production, rather than non-seep food sources, as their principal trophic pathway. The “Mt Crushmore” cold seep site is located in a vertically faulted and fractured region of the Pliocene Purisima Formation along the walls of Monterey Canyon (Y 635 m), where seepage appears to derive from sulfide-rich fluids within the Purisima Formation. The “Clam Field” cold seep site, also in Monterey Canyon (_ 900 m) is located near outcrops in the hydrocarbon-bearing Monterey Formation.
    [Show full text]
  • Marine Science and Oceanography
    Marine Science and Oceanography Marine geology- study of the ocean floor Physical oceanography- study of waves, currents, and tides Marine biology– study of nature and distribution of marine organisms Chemical Oceanography- study of the dissolved chemicals in seawater Marine engineering- design and construction of structures used in or on the ocean. Marine Science, or Oceanography, integrates different sciences. 1 2 1 The Sea Floor: Key Ideas * The seafloor has two distinct regions: continental margins and deep-ocean basins * The continental margin is the relatively shallow ocean floor near shore. It shares the structure and composition of the adjacent continent. * The deep-ocean floor differs from the continental margin in tectonic origin, history and composition. * New technology has allowed scientists to accurately map even the deepest ocean trenches. 3 Bathymetry: The Study of Ocean Floor Contours Satellite altimetry measures the sea surface height from orbit. Satellites can bounce 1,000 pulses of radar energy off the ocean surface every second. With the use of satellite altimetry, sea surface levels can be measured more accurately, showing sea surface distortion. 4 2 5 The Physiography of the Ocean Floor Physiography and bathymetry (submarine landscape) allow the sea floor to be subdivided into three distinct provinces: (1) continental margins, (2) deep ocean basins and (3) mid-oceanic ridges. 6 3 The Topography of Ocean Floors The classifications of ocean floor: Continental Margins – the submerged outer edge of a continent Ocean Basin – the deep seafloor beyond the continental margin Ocean Ridge System - extends throughout the ocean basins A typical cross section of the Atlantic ocean basin.
    [Show full text]
  • Programme Specification Marine Geology and Geophysics (2020-21)
    Programme Specification Marine Geology and Geophysics (2020-21) This specification provides a concise summary of the main features of the programme and the learning outcomes that a typical student might reasonably be expected to achieve and demonstrate if s/he takes full advantage of the learning opportunities that are provided. Awarding Institution University of Southampton Teaching Institution University of Southampton Mode of Study Full-time Duration in years 1 Accreditation details None Final award Master of Research (MRes) Name of Award Marine Geology and Geophysics Pathways: Coastal, Exploration, Geodynamics and Palaeo Interim Exit awards Postgraduate Certificate in Higher Education Postgraduate Diploma in Higher Education FHEQ level of final award Level 7 UCAS code N/A Programme Code 4928, 4940, 4941, 4945 QAA Subject Benchmark or Earth Sciences, Environmental Sciences And Environmental Studies other external reference 2019, Master's Degree Characteristics 2016 Programme Lead Nicholas Harmon (nh1v08) Programme Overview Brief outline of the programme This programme will provide you with broad knowledge of marine geological and geophysical techniques, and advanced training in marine geophysical exploration techniques, mathematical modelling, geodynamics, coastal processes, micropalaeontology or palaeoceanographic expertise. As an MRes student, you will spend around two thirds of your year on your research project and the rest of your time taking taught modules. Depending on your background knowledge, these will be a mix of core and optional subjects. You will be able to develop specific knowledge and skills through your selection of modules and choice of subject for your substantial research project. The programme is taught by staff from across NOCS who draw on their topical cutting edge research to create a challenging and stimulating degree programme.
    [Show full text]