Egilsay Egilsay - Site of the Martyrdom of St Magnus
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ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:31 Page 414 NORTH ISLES - EGILSAY EGILSAY - SITE OF THE MARTYRDOM OF ST MAGNUS Bishop William, and on the site of an earlier church. Built on a prominent rise in the middle of the island, the Romanesque church dates from the second quarter of the 12th century. The unique tower is now 14.9m high, but may have once been 20m and had a conical roof, while the main flagstone roof Coastal phonebox Egilsay from the north with Kili Holm in the foreground was still in place in 1822. Wildlife Egilsay has several KILI HOLM (Celtic/ON Cille of a Celtic place name. Windows at different levels on small lochs and marshy areas Holm, Holm of the Cell), off the the tower face north, south, east which are good for breeding north end may have been the site The HOLM OF SCOCKNESS and west, and the sanctuary over waders and ducks in summer. of a monastic cell. The possible (ON Skogrr Nes, Wooded Point) the barrel-vaulted chancel could Winter brings large numbers of presence of a Celtic church on is another very attractive small only be reached from inside the waders to its good tidal feeding Egilsay is strengthened by the island, between Egilsay and church. The tower may derive spots. These are mainly name. There is a cairn at the Rousay. Strong tides on each from Irish influence, but more Turnstone and Purple Sandpiper. highest point, which may either side increase the sense of isola- probably from Northern There are also several good be a chambered cairn or a pre- tion of this charming holm. European or Norwegian sandy beaches. historic house, while another Signs of ancient remains mingle designs. Though it is unique in mound with protruding stones with undisturbed wildlife to cre- Orkney now, there were church- Onziebust RSPB Reserve may also have been a building. ate a sense of mystery seeming- es with towers at Skaill in (year round warden, Tel (01856) The interestingly named Point ly remote from modern man and Deerness and in Stenness. St Magnus Kirk dates from the second quarter of the 12th century 821395) is being managed of Pitten may be a further echo his gadgets. specifically to benefit EGILSAY (ON Egilsey, Egil's times in the Orkneyinga Saga. At the south end there is a cham- Corncrakes. Although you are Isle, or Celtic/Norse Eaglaisey, bered cairn at Hillocks of the unlikely to see this elusive Church Island) is an arrowhead- Its main claim to fame is, of Graand (HY474278) which species because of its secretive shaped island east of Rousay course, the Martyrdom of St may be Maeshowe type, while habits, Egilsay is well worth a which is dominated by the fine Magnus at Easter, in (probably) on the hill northwest of Howe visit in late spring or summer for 12th century St Magnus Kirk 1117. Acenotaph was erected in there is a probable burial mound. its wealth of breeding species (HY466303). Although only 1937, on the traditional spot The 18th century house of such as Redshank and Skylark 5km (3 miles) long by 2km where he was killed Howan (HY478292) is built on and to see its rich flora, both (1.25 miles) wide, the island fig- (HY470300). The St Magnus the possible site of the Bishop’s signs of the relatively uninten- ures prominently in Orkney his- Church is thought to have been residence, south of Manse Loch. sive nature of the farming. tory. The present church is erected some time after this, This is also the probable site of Ruined structure on Kili Holm - a chambered cairn or a monastic cell? thought to be a replacement for a most likely at the instigation of Egilsay’s broch. St Magnus cenotaph, erected 1937 Howan on the east coast is the site of a probable broch much earlier one. Egilsay was Loch of the Graand, at the south end, is good for waterfowl and waders important as one of the resi- dences of the Bishop who is referred to as being there several Old plan of St Magnus Kirk S M H A C R 414 415 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:31 Page 416 NORTH ISLES - WYRE WYRE - SITE OF A NORSE CASTLE AND CHAPEL This castle is one of the old- mounds and the enigmatic est and best preserved for its enclosures at Skirmie Clett age in Scotland. The square on the east side (HY456263) central keep is 8m across, with the mortared walls 2m Wildlife Walking on from thick, and is surrounded by a the castle, The Taing is a wall, ditch and bank. It is favourite place for seals to likely to have been a refuge haul out. Arctic Tern, against attack, rather than a waders and Eider nest here dwelling, which was almost in summer, while the Loch certainly on the site of the of the Taing can be good for nearby Bu Farm, where the migrating waders and water- Orcadian author and poet, fowl. There are fine views St Mary’s Chapel is just east of Cubbie Roo’s Castle Edwin Muir (1887-1959) across to Rousay and down spent part of his childhood. Eynhallow Sound from here - a good place to be for a St Mary's Chapel summer sunset. (HY443262) is next to Cubbie Roo's Castle and is The Taing is also botanical- Cubbie Roo’s Castle showing the central keep, walls, ditch and banks also 12th century. It is a typ- ly-rich. A diverse range of WYRE (ON Vigr, Cubbie Roo's Castle ical Romanesque chapel and plants can be seen in its vari- Spearhead. This spearhead- (HY441262) of today. It would have served the ety of habitats which include shaped island is only 3.5km withstood at least one Christian Norse family at the exposed shoreline, salt- (2.2 miles) long, but it fig- remarkable siege in 1231, Bu. This chapel may have marsh, fresh water, marsh been founded by Kolbein and grassy heath. ures strongly in Viking his- described in Haakon's Saga. Window exterior view Window interior view tory. The great 12th century Snaekoll Gunnason and his Hruga, or his son, Bjarni, personality, Kolbein Hruga followers took refuge in the who became Bishop in 1188. In winter Wyre and Gairsay lived here. He was married castle after killing Earl John, Sounds are home to large to a granddaughter of Earl son of Harald Maddadson Wyre is a fertile little island, numbers of Long-tailed Paul Thorfinnson and was and the last Norse Earl of which may explain the lack Duck, Great Northern Diver said to be a very overbearing Orkney. The castle resisted of a chambered cairn or and even the occasional man. He also built a strong all attempts by the Earl’s other prehistoric remains White-billed Diver. Velvet castle in about 1150, the men to take it. apart from some burnt Scoter and Red-breasted Merganser are also to be Cubbie Roo’s Castle is situated on the highest point on Wyre Old plan of Cubbie Roo’s Castle seen. Flocks of moulting S M Eider may also be present. H A C R The Bu was the boyhood home of the poet, Edwin Muir Moving a car by “flit boat” before the advent of car ferries Old plan of St Mary’s Chapel S M H A C R 416 417 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:31 Page 418 NORTH ISLES - EYNHALLOW EYNHALLOW - ORKNEY’S HOLY ISLE Various other unexcavated struc- was said that it was not always tures are visible on Eynhallow, visible to human eyes and could which add to the air of mystery disappear suddenly before it about the past. There is a partic- could be reached. The spell can ularly beautiful bay on the north only be broken by thrusting steel side facing Rousay, Ramna into the land above the high Geo (HY362295). This unin- water mark. To this day wise habited island now belongs to visitors are still advised to take Orkney Islands Council and is this precaution. one of the most peaceful and atmospheric places to visit in Wildlife Eynhallow has breed- Orkney. Trips are sometimes ing Arctic Terns, Arctic Skuas, Eynhallow Monastery doorway run here in the summer. Tysties and many Eider Ducks, as well as a few Bonxies. Many Folk Tales There are several Common Seals lie up along the folk tales about the island. The skerry facing Rousay. A study stalks of corn cut after sunset of Fulmars has been going on Sunset down Eynhallow Sound from Aikerness, Evie were said to run red with blood here for over 40 years now EYNHALLOW (ON Eyin of Kolbein Hruga, from the the arch between chancel and and a horse tethered after sunset which has added greatly to Helga, Holy Isle). This small island, where it is suggested he nave. The site was in domestic would get free because iron knowledge of lifespan, breeding island lies between Evie and was being educated by the use from the 16th century which stakes would jump out of the behaviour and the wandering Rousay and very strong tides monks. Arecord from Chronica confuses the interpretation of the ground after sunset. There is habits of the immature birds, also a story that rats, cats and which roam as far as Canada flow past both sides, making Mealros of 1175 states that other buildings, but the older The Fulmar study continues access difficult. The name of "Laurence, former Abbot in parts to the west may well be mice cannot live on Eynhallow.