Historic Places February 2013
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HISTORIC PLACES FEBRUARY 2013 AWE ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE Naturel A PORTFOLIO — FRANK GEHRY ICONIC ARIZONA OUR TAKE ON THE STATE’S MOST HISTORIC LANDMARKS, INCLUDING TOVREA CASTLE, EL TOVAR & MORE “In the end,“In the character is a civilization encased of in its structures.” Tovrea Castle PLUS: HELLSGATE WILDERNESS • RATTLESNAKES • YUMA’S BEST BURRITOS MORENCI, AZ • QUEEN VALLEY ROAD • OLIVE OATMAN • CAMELBACK MOUNTAIN Grand Canyon CONTENTS 02.13 National Park Flagstaff Prescott 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS? Hellsgate > > > Wilderness PHOENIX Superstition Glendale Mountains 5 THE JOURNAL 44 TO HELLSGATE AND BACK 52 SCENIC DRIVE Tempe People, places and things from around the state, including the girl Lining up writers and photographers for stories about Havasu Falls, Queen Valley Road: As it winds through the Superstition Morenci Yuma with the blue tattoo; Yuma’s best burritos; and Morenci, our town Hannagan Meadow or Horton Creek is one thing — idyllic-sounding Mountains, Queen Valley Road offers a little something Oracle of the month. places are an easy sell — but when the contract includes the words for everyone — gorgeous landscapes for “go to Hellsgate,” the list of contributors gets a lot shorter. Hells- sightseers, and extreme terrain for • POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE 16 HISTORIC PLACES gate is a rugged place, and getting in and out requires a willingness adventurous spirits. If TIME can pick a “Person of the Year” every year, and Good House- to endure triple-digit temperatures, hungry bears, poisonous keeping can put its seal of approval all over everything, we figured snakes, flash floods and a 2,000-foot vertical drop. 54 HIKE OF THE GET MORE ONLINE that after nearly nine decades of publishing, it was time for us to BY ANNETTE MCGIVNEY MONTH www.arizonahighways.com start officially designating a few things of our own. We begin with PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELIAS BUTLER Summit Trail: Maybe five of Arizona’s most historic places. Visit our website for details on weekend getaways, you’ve done Camelback. If BY ROBERT STIEVE & KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER 50 HISTORY MAJOR hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops, so, great; if not, put it on your slideshows and more. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CRAIG SMITH Words and photographs make up most list — it’s one of the most of Arizona’s historical record, but if you www.arizonahighways.wordpress.com unique urban trails in 28 AWE NATUREL ask collector Jeremy Rowe, there aren’t Check out our blog for regular posts on just America. From the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley in the north to the enough pictures. That’s why he’s col- about anything having to do with travel in Arizona, including Q&As with writers and pho- Sonoran Desert and Chiricahua Mountains in the south, Arizona lected more than 35,000 photographs tographers, special events, bonus photos, sneak has more than its share of natural wonders. Talk about naked and postcards. It’s one of the best col- peeks at upcoming issues and more. beauty ... this portfolio showcases Arizona in its natural state. lections anywhere. www.facebook.com/azhighways EDITED BY JEFF KIDA BY DAVID SCHWARTZ Join our Facebook community to share your PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN WAGNER photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia 40 THIS BITES! contests and receive up-to-the-minute informa- Most people are inherently wary of rattlesnakes. And for good tion about what’s going on behind the scenes at Arizona Highways. reason. Their venom can digest a human body from the inside out, leaving limbs hideously swollen and black as coal. Or worse. Arizona Highways is on Instagram So why would our writer spend the night in a desert teeming with Follow us @arizonahighways sidewinders? to see our travel photos from around the state. BY CRAIG CHILDS PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE D. TAUBERT ◗ Snow blankets Four Peaks, the most notable summits in the Mazatzal Mountain range, east of Phoenix. | MOREY K. MILBRADT FRONT COVER Tovrea Castle and Carraro Cactus Garden, located at 52nd and Van Buren streets in Phoenix, recently opened for public tours. Alessio Carraro built the castle in 1928 and sold the property to E.A. Tovrea in 1932. | CRAIG SMITH BACK COVER Sunset light paints delicate sandstone fins at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Northern Arizona. | GEORGE STOCKING Photographic Prints Available Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors It’s an Experience FEBRUARY 2013 VOL. 89, NO. 2 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com CRAIG CHILDS grew up with the Ringlings. That think about when they requires a willingness Writer Craig Childs is an avid adventurer, might sound like a metaphor, but it’s think about Arizona. to endure not only rat- PUBLISHER Win Holden but one journey really stands out — a EDITOR Robert Stieve multiday excursion in the Mexican not. Their extensive property was next They also think about tlesnakes, but also tri- MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer door, literally, to my boyhood home. I saguaros, sunsets and ple-digit temperatures, ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kathy Ritchie desert, complete with rattlesnake I EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel don’t know how many acres the Ringling even rattlesnakes. aggressive bears, giant encounters. Childs relates his close calls PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida brothers had on that particular spread, with sidewinders in This Bites! (page Craig Childs, in par- centipedes, swarms CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney but it was a lot, and a half-mile through ticular, has a fascina- of gnats, flash floods ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney 40). Although he hasn’t yet been bitten, the woods between us was a collection tion with the latter. and a 2,000-foot verti- DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice Childs has written many books about MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey of old buildings, including a three-story “In some ways, I cal drop. About the his treks into the wild, including The PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi stone structure that was used as a stable wished it had been me only thing you won’t WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow Animal Dialogues, which gives readers of sorts for some of their circus elephants. [who was bitten], just encounter down there DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero a glimpse at his close encounters with In our Tom Sawyer years, my three broth- to get it out of the way, is a parade of stagger- CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman a variety of wildlife. Childs is a frequent FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen ers and I, along with the other neighbor- and answer my curios- ing mummies. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis contributor to Arizona Highways. His hood kids, would spend our summers ity,” he writes in This In To Hellsgate work has also appeared in The New CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 trying to get into that old building, Bites!, an unsettling MARKOW PAUL and Back, Annette York Times and Outside. SPONSORSHIP SALES which was boarded-up and brooding — essay that inspired McGivney recounts her REPRESENTATION Ernie Mulholland emm media services llc the kind of place you’d expect to see Associate Editor Kathy Ritchie to walk grueling trek into that unforgiving wil- 602-971-6260 Shaggy, Scooby and a parade of stagger- into my office after reading it and say: derness. She hiked in with her son, a girl- [email protected] BRUCE D. TAUBERT ing mummies. It was also off-limits and “That’s so disturbing. I’m never going friend and photographer Elias Butler, but LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] Bruce Taubert is no stranger to Arizona’s 2039 W. Lewis Avenue inaccessible. Well, almost inaccessible. anywhere with Craig Childs.” as you’ll see, it’s not a trip for everyone. Phoenix, AZ 85009 wildlife. As a biologist-photographer, he’s (Sorry, Mom, it was Jeff’s idea.) The essay looks back on Craig’s time as However, if you’re wired for extremes, come very close to things that crawl and GOVERNOR Janice K. Brewer I thought about the elephant barn a river guide and the ever-present threat entering the depths of Hellsgate ranks as DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT slither, including the Western diamond- when I was standing at the front gate of of snakes. “We were all likely targets, one of the best adventures in Arizona. It’s OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski back and sidewinder rattlesnakes you’ll ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION Tovrea Castle, about to enter a place I’d working as field instructors on the lower an experience, to be sure. Like gaining BOARD CHAIRWOMAN Barbara Ann Lundstrom see in This Bites! (page 40). “I love to pho- wanted to explore for years. Like every- Colorado River, a place well populated by access to a cordoned-off castle or sneak- VICE CHAIRMAN Victor M. Flores tograph bats, hummingbirds, snakes and one else in metropolitan Phoenix, I’d rattlesnakes. Picking up gear boxes and ing through the third-story window of a MEMBERS Stephen W. Christy nocturnal animals of all types,” Taubert driven past the castle a thousand times, snapping out tarps, wearing river san- boarded-up elephant barn. Kelly O. Anderson says. “The more difficult a photograph and couldn’t wait to see what was inside. Hank Rogers is to make, the more I want to make it.” dals and shorts, our Joseph E. La Rue I was there with former Phoenix Mayor bare flesh was always William J. Feldmeier Taubert’s work has also appeared in John Driggs, who was one of the many available.” Turns out, Arizona Wildlife Views and WildBird.