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CAIRO T E N a L 109 P Y L E N Park O L © Lonely Planet 109 Cairo CAIRO Let’s address the drawbacks first. The crowds on a Cairo footpath make Manhattan look like a ghost town. You will be hounded by papyrus sellers at every turn. Your life will flash before your eyes each time you venture across a street. And your snot will run black from the smog. But it’s a small price to pay to visit the city Cairenes call Umm ad-Dunya – the Mother of the World. This city has an energy, palpable even at three in the morning, like no other. It’s the product of its 20 million inhabitants waging a battle against the desert and winning (mostly), of 20 million people simultaneously crushing the city’s infrastructure under their collective weight and lifting the city’s spirit up with their uncommon graciousness and humour. One taxi ride can span millennia, from the resplendent mosques and mausoleums built at the pinnacle of the Islamic empire, to the 19th-century palaces and grand avenues (which earned the city the nickname ‘Paris on the Nile’), to the brutal concrete blocks of the Nasser years – then all the way back to the days of the pharaohs, as the Pyramids of Giza hulk on the western edge of the city. The architectural jumble is smoothed over by an even coating of beige sand, and the sand is a social equaliser as well: everyone, no matter how rich, gets dusty when the spring khamsin blows in. So blow your nose, crack a joke and learn to look through the dirt to see the city’s true colours. If you love Cairo, it will love you back. HIGHLIGHTS Tip your head back and gape at the Pyramids of Giza ( p144 ) and cross an item off your life to-do list Give your regards to Tutankhamun and Egyptian Museum his cohorts in the mazelike Egyptian Al-Azhar Park Museum ( p183 ) Islamic Cairo Visit the great medieval mosques of Islamic Cairo (p128 ) – or just get lost in the narrow alleys ( p157 ) Relax to the click of backgammon and the bubble of the sheesha (water pipe) at an Egyptian coffeehouse, known as an ahwa ( p170 ) Pyramids of Giza Escape the city noise in the greenery of Al-Azhar Park ( p141 ) with its splendid sunset view TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: MORE THAN 20 MILLION 110 CAIRO •• History lonelyplanet.com HISTORY the annual flooding of the Nile. When the Cairo is not a Pharaonic city, though the pres- French-educated Ismail came to power, he ence of the Pyramids leads many to believe was determined to remake his capital into a CAIRO CAIRO otherwise. At the time the Pyramids were built, city of European standing. This could only the capital of ancient Egypt was Memphis, be done by starting afresh. For 10 years the 20km southeast of the Giza Plateau. former marsh became one vast building site as The core foundations of the city of Cairo Ismail invited architects from Belgium, France were laid in AD 969 by the Fatimid dynasty, and Italy to design and build a new European- but the city’s history goes further back than style Cairo beside the old Islamic city. that. There was an important ancient religious Since the revolution of 1952 the population centre at On (modern-day Heliopolis). The of Cairo has grown spectacularly – although Romans built a fortress at the port of On, at the expense of Ismail’s vision. Building which they called Babylon, while Amr ibn maintenance fell by the wayside as apartments al-As, the general who conquered Egypt for were overcrowded. In the 1960s and 1970s, Islam in AD 642, established the city of Fustat urban planners concreted over the sparsely nearby. Fustat’s huge wealth was drawn from populated west bank of the Nile for desper- Egypt’s very rich soil and the taxes imposed ately needed new suburbs. In more recent on the heavy Nile traffic. Descriptions left decades, growth has crept beyond Muqattam by 10th-century travellers tell of public gar- Hills on the east and the Pyramids on the west. dens, street lighting and buildings up to 14 Luxe gated communities, sprawling housing storeys high. Yet in the 10th century, when blocks and full satellite cities, complete with the Fatimids marched in from modern-day malls and megastores, spring up from the Tunisia, they spurned Fustat and instead set desert every year: 6th of October City, New about building a new city. Cairo and others are the new Egyptian dream. Construction began on the new capital, Whether the desert and the economy can probably on purpose, when the planet Mars sustain them remains to be seen. (Al-Qahir, ‘the Victorious’) was in the as- cendant; thus arose Al-Madina al-Qahira, ‘the ORIENTATION city victorious’, the pronunciation of which Finding your way around Cairo’s sprawl is not Europeans corrupted to Cairo. as difficult as it may at first seem. Midan Tahrir Many imposing buildings from the Fatimid is the centre. The noisy, busy Downtown area, era remain today: the great Al-Azhar Mosque where most cheap eating and sleeping op- and university is still Egypt’s main centre of tions are, lies northeast of Tahrir, centred on Islamic study, and the three great gates of Bab Midan Talaat Harb. Midan Ramses, location an-Nasr, Bab al-Futuh and Bab Zuweila still of the city’s main train station, marks the straddle two of Islamic Cairo’s main thor- northernmost extent of Downtown. Beyond oughfares. The Fatimids were not to remain are teeming middle- and working-class sub- long in power, but their city survived them urbs such as Shubra, perhaps the true soul of and, under subsequent dynasties, became a modern-day Cairo. capital of great wealth, ruled by cruel and Downtown’s eastern edge is Midan Ataba, fickle sultans. This was the city that was called where Islamic Cairo takes over. This is the the Mother of the World. medieval heart of the city, still beating strong Cairo finally burst its walls, spreading today. At its centre is the great bazaar of west to the port of Bulaq and south onto Khan al-Khalili and Al-Azhar Mosque and Rhoda Island, while the desert to the east university. Further east are the Northern and filled with grand funerary monuments. Southern Cemeteries, vast necropolises now But at heart it remained a medieval city inhabited by both the living and the dead. for 900 years, until the mid-19th century, South of Midan Tahrir, the tree-lined streets when Ismail, grandson of Mohammed Ali, of Garden City are prime embassy territory. decided it was time for change. During his Then you’re out of central Cairo and into 16-year reign (1863–79), Ismail did more a succession of ramshackle neighbourhoods than anyone since the Fatimids to alter the loosely termed Old Cairo, the site of Roman city’s appearance. Babylon and Arab Fustat. Buried in here is Before the 1860s the future site of modern the small, walled enclave of Coptic Cairo, a central Cairo was a swampy plain subject to feature on many tourist agendas. Well beyond .
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