The Sword and the Armour: science and practice in the industry 1837-1914

Ray Anderson

At the German Brewing Congress of June (ii) The long established Truman, 1884, the redoubtable Max Delbrück, Hanbury & Buxton at the Black Eagle Director of the Experimental and , Brick Lane, Spitalfields; the first Teaching Institute for Brewing in Berlin brewery to appoint a professional announced ‘With the sword of science chemist to its staff in 1831, when the and the armour of practice German beer number of such men in Britain could be will encircle the world.’1 It was no idle counted in tens.6 (iii) Reid's, at the Griffin boast. In 1887 beer output in the German Brewery, in picturesquely named Liquor- states exceeded that in the UK for the pond Street (now Clerkenwell Road); the first time and Germany became the first brewery to appoint a science grad- largest producer of beer in the world.2 uate to its staff in the late 1830s.7 (iv) Fifty years earlier, when the 18 year old Barclay Perkins, at the Anchor Brewery, Victoria came to the thrown, it was Dead Man's Place, Park Street, unthinkable that Germany would hold Southwark. Barclay Perkins had the such a position. Britain was the premier greatest output of any London brewery brewing nation, with London's massive by 1809 and remained in the lead until porter of ‘a magnificence the 1850s, passing the 300,000 barrel unspeakable’ in the van.3 mark in 1815 and 400,000 barrels in 1839.5 & 8

Porter Brewing Despite Charles Barclay's remark, which invited comparisons between the brewing The ‘power loom brewers’ as Charles industry and the textile industry, brewing Barclay called them in 1830 operated differed from the latter in that it achieved on a scale unknown anywhere else.4 large scale production without the benefit The four biggest in 1837 were:5 (i) of water or steam power. Large output Whitbread, at the White Hart Brewery in was achieved using horse power to drive Chiswell Street; the first brewery to top the mills for example and manpower the 200,000 barrel a year mark in 1796. to do the by hand with ores.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 55 Whitbread brewed 122,000 barrels of had been installed in all but one of porter in 1782, two years before they London's major breweries and horses ordered a steam engine to grind malt and and men were reduced in number.11 pump water.9 & 10 A particularly impressive figure when one remembers that at that Quantitative measurement crept into time the brewing season was restricted to brewing from the mid 18th century with the the colder months, October to March, as application of the thermometer by Michael summer brewing often gave unacceptable Combrune, and then the hydrometer, in losses in spoilt beer. Once the steam the form of the saccharometer, by John engine became available, London brewers Richardson.12 & 13 Figure 1 is a represen- where understandably keen to adopt it. By tation of these instruments taken from a the turn of the century the improved brewing treatise published in 1802.12 engines of Boulton and Watt and others Shown as Fig 1 is a brass saccharometer

Figure 1. Saccharometer, assay jar and thermometers, from Alexander Morrice's A Treatise on Brewing, first published in 1802.

56 The Journal of the Brewery History Society with its hollow ball and square stem grad- turnover. The brewers adopted this new uated on four sides, which together with technique with alacrity. Porter drinkers detachable weights allowed the determi- can hardly have failed to notice the differ- nation of strength up to 40 pounds ence in appearance and taste of their per barrel i.e. a specific gravity of up to favourite brew, but far from reacting 1.111. Shown as Fig 3 is the copper against the new form of porter they seem assay jar with two communicating com- to have welcomed it.15 & 16 partments to hold the saccharometer and the thermometer. Fig 4 is a 'common The great symbol of the porter brewing brewer's thermometer' and Fig 5 the technology was of course the giant stor- intriguing 'blind thermometer', where the age vats, necessary to mellow the flavour 'pocket scale' is detachable. With the of the crude beer by long maturation. blind thermometer the more secretive Porter was made from cheap ingredients brewer could set the moveable 'index' or and was easy to produce (which made it rider to the required temperature against popular with the brewers) it kept well and the scale, then remove the scale and leave the instrument in the hands of a brewery worker to take the required action when the mercury rose to the point at which the index had been set. A blind thermometer was more expensive than the common model but remained popular well into the 19th century amongst a brewing fraternity jealous of the details of its process. Linking use of the thermome- ter with the saccharometer gave the brewer real advantage in process control. The measurement of wort strength and temperature allowed the brewer to deter- mine the best 'mashing heat' to get the best yield from his malt and allowed com- parison of different in this respect. One consequence of this new found knowledge was the discovery that it was cheaper to use pale malt with colouring and/or black malt rather than brown malt in the production of porter. The greater Figure 2. A a sixty barrel domed porter extract more than compensated for the copper, from James Steel's Selection of extra cost of the pale malt and the beers Practical Points of Malting & Brewing, matured more quickly allowing faster published in 1878.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 57 didn't spoil easily because of the high tragedy occurred. Some of the metal level of hops in it (which made it popular hoops around the vessel snapped, the with the publican) and it was flavoursome vessel gave way and 3,555 barrels of and undercut the price of competing Porter flooded out. 'The flood swept away beers by 25% (which made it popular walls in the brewery, inundated the crowd- with the drinker).17 The size of their ed basements in the vicinity and caused porter vats was something of a matter of several tenements to collapse, with the pride amongst brewers. One such was death of eight people "by drowning, injury, Henry Meux, of the Horseshoe brewery in poisoning by the porter fumes or drunken- Bainbridge Street, St Giles, at the south ness"'.18 The total amount of beer lost end of Tottenham Court Road, where the was put at 7,664 barrels, for which the Dominion Theatre now stands. This brewery petitioned Parliament for a refund brewery contained some immense vats of the duty and duly received a rebate - constructed with little knowledge of the nobody else received any compensation! forces they would have to withstand, and The incident did however cause the race on the night of 17th October 1814 a for bigger vats to abate thereafter.

Figure 3. A Steel's Masher at Hook Norton brewery. Photograph courtesy of Roger Putman 2004.

58 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Evolving Technology Domed coppers were introduced in the first decades of the 19th century but were The early decades of the19th century saw slow to spread, an example from a brew- a number of technological innovations in ing manual published in 1878 is shown in brewing.19 Attemperators with cold water Figure 2. This particular example is fitted circulated through copper pipes to main- with a rouser to prevent the hops settling tain a steady temperature in fermentation to the base of the vessel and getting vessels became widely adopted. The burnt.20 But covered as opposed to open pipes could be fixed to the wall or base of coppers were not accepted everywhere, the vessel, and such an arrangement the giant Burton brewers persisted with may still be found in breweries today, or open coppers into the 20th century. be portable such that they were dangled Indeed some brewers have yet to be con- into the vessel from above as needed. vinced. Wadworth's of still have Mashing machines, driven originally by an open copper in use and also a domed horses and then by steam power, were copper. The latter seems to have been on used to rake the mash and came into trial for much of the last century. Steam general use replacing mashing ores. heating as opposed to direct firing of the

Figure 4. An open cooler at John Smith's brewery, Tadcaster, from Alfred Bernard's Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, volume 3, published in 1890.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 59 copper was similarly slow in being More readily accepted was the use of accepted but is now the norm, although rollers to crush the malt which began to some direct fired coppers may be found replace grinding stones as used in flour around the world. mills from mid century. External mashing

Figure 5. Advertisement for Robert Morton refrigerators 1880s.

60 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Victorian breweries. The odd example may still be found today. Open coolers came to be complemented by refrigera- tors in which circulating cold water cooled the wort en-route to the fermenters [Fig. 5]. Initially these were horizontal, but took up much room and were to an extent replaced by vertical refrigerators, in which wort flowed down over the cooled sur- face. In larger breweries there would be banks of these refrigerators to facilitate relatively rapid processing

Fermentation Techniques Figure 6. Parachute at Daniel Batham's brewery, Dudley. Photograph courtesy of Roger Putman 2005. Fermentation vessels were generally quite small (10s rather than 100s of bar- machines also came into use at this time, rels), could be either round or rectangu- the most popular version of which was lar, and be operated on various regimes associated with James Steel of Glasgow depending upon the method used to The Steel's masher was patented in 1853 remove the accumulated yeast from the and may still be found in almost fermented beer.22 The skimming system unchanged form in a number of brew- was popular in which yeast was drawn off eries [Fig. 3]. These devices comple- in an inverted cone placed just beneath mented the internal rakes by acting as a the yeast surface. The yeast was passed mixer whereby incoming grist is intimate- via a pipe from this parachute as it was ly mixed with hot liquor on its entrance to known to a vessel on the floor below. In the tun by means of an Archimedean rectangular fermenters the parachute screw. Sparging, which seems to have was placed at one end of the vessel and originated in Scotland,21 in which the the yeast swept towards it using a board extracted grist in the mash tun is sprin- which was dragged over the surface. kled with water rather than being re- Examples of parachutes are still to be extracted by immersion, spread form found [Fig. 6]. The skimming system around 1800 and was accepted practice developed into the dropping system in for most brewers by the 1860s. A shallow which fermentation starts in a round fer- open cooler (coolship), for cooling hot menter and then perhaps 24 to 36 hours wort from the copper, situated in a well after pitching is dropped to rectangular ventilated room usually at the top of the shallower vessel on the floor below for brewery [Fig. 4], was a feature of skimming. This system had the advan-

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 61 Figure 7. The dropping system of fermentation in operation at Jacob's Street brewery, Bristol, from Alfred Bernard's Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, volume 2, published in 1889. tage of rousing the fermentation making it tion starts off in relatively small rectangu- more vigorous and in leaving unwanted lar vessels and half to three quarters of debris behind in the round prior to pass- the way through the fermentation the ing to the skimming vessel below [Fig. 7]. fermenting wort is passed to the union Another kind of yeast removal, or cleans- casks for cleansing. In the union sets, ing system, involves the transfer of linked casks are surmounted by a trough actively fermenting wort to casks in which ('barm back') into which the fermenting fermentation is completed. This devel- wort rises via 'swan's necks'. From the oped into the best known such system, gently slopping trough the yeast and beer the Burton union system, which neither flow into the 'feeder back', the yeast originated in Burton nor was peculiar to it, being thus removed with the progressive- but became particularly associated with ly brightening beer flowing back into the the town in the production of the high casks. So it goes on gently gurgling away quality pale ales which were the great until the fermentation reaches completion success story of Victorian brewing in and the yeast count is reduced to the Britain [Fig. 8]. In this system, fermenta- required level for racking. The Burton

62 The Journal of the Brewery History Society rather than four barrels in capacity) and were set up on their heads.23 The yeast flowed over a sort of lip at the top, and dropped into a trough [Fig. 9]. Pontos were probably extinct by the 1st World War. Then there are Yorkshire squares. These vessels with capacities of 30 to 50 barrels were made of stone or slate slabs and had two compartments connected by Figure 8. A Burton union fermentation set at an orifice, or manhole as it is called, with Samuel Allsopp & Sons brewery, from a raised collar through which the ferment- Sheridan Muspratt's Chemistry as Applied to ing wort gushes, leaving the yeast on the the Arts and Munufactures, published in 1854. top 'deck' of the vessel to be collected as the beer flows back into the main body of union system is of course still in use at the vessel. Such vessels, now made of Marstons in Burton. Another cleansing stainless steel, but operated much as system with similarities to the Burton they would have been in Victorian times unions which was popular in London may be found at Tetley's brewery in involved the use of pontos. These ves- Leeds [Fig. 10] and elsewhere. sels were larger than union casks (six

Figure 9.The Ponto system of fermentation in operation in an unnamed brewery, from Julian L. Baker's The Brewing Industry, published in 1905.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 63 Figure 10. The Yorkshire square system of fermentation in operation at Joshua Tetley & Sons brewery, Leeds in the 1970s. Photograph from the author's collection.

The Tower Brewery pure tower brewery.26 The material flow is consistently downwards from the malt Here it is convenient to consider the hopper, to mill (rolls), to grist case, to arrangement of plant in a Victorian ale mash tun, to underback which received brewery. From the mid 19th century the the sweet wort (not actually shown here), classic tower brewery took shape.24 In a to copper were the wort is boiled with the tower brewery gravity was utilised to do hops, to the hop back were the spent the work once the water had been hops are separated from the boiled wort, pumped and the malt lifted to the top of to the large open cooler then over the the brewery, with the processed wort and refrigerators, on to the fermenting ves- beer allowed to flow downwards in the sels were the yeast is added, and then various stages. Although in fact in most down to the cleansing casks. This system tower breweries it was not quite as although superficially attractive was very simple as that. Pure gravity systems, inflexible, particularly if the brewery was were gravity does all the work, were real- to be extended at any time, and in fact ly confined to small breweries.25 Figure most breweries of any size used the 11 shows a plan and elevation for a 5 pumped tower system [Fig. 12]. Here quarter (c. 5000 barrels a year capacity) again the goods and liquor go to the top

64 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Figure 11. A pure tower brewery, from George Scamell & Frederick Colyer's Breweries and maltings: Their Arrangement, Figure 12. A pumped tower brewery, from Construction, Machinery, and Plant, 2nd edi- George Scamell & Frederick Colyer's tion published in 1880. Breweries and maltings: Their Arrangement, Construction, Machinery, and Plant, 2nd edi- tion published in 1880. of the brewery, the grist case feeds the mash tuns, which in turn feed the under- back and copper and hop back, but from central brewhouse, the boiler house were the hop back the hot wort is pumped to the steam may be contained, and the fer- the top of the fermenting house and the mentation house. shallow open cooler; thence over the refrigerators and on to the fermenters etc. This system has the benefit of flexibility, Lager brewing is easier to oversee, has the open cooler at the well ventilated top of the brewery Top, warm-fermentation of ales, where and lends itself to compartmentalising of the yeast rises to the surface of the ves- the operations into three houses; the sel, was of course not the only system in

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 65 way that the starch and the protein in the malt were made easy to extract and degrade in the brewhouse. Continental malts on the other hand were ‘undermod- ified’ not so amenable to extraction. These continental malts therefore need- ed more extensive treatment in the brew- house than their British equivalents. Continental practice reflects these dif- ferences as shown in Figure 14. The diagram shows the hopper (A), the grist case (B) and external masher (C) feeding a mash tun (D), but from then on things get more complicated than in a British Figure 13. Lager fermentation and maturation brewery. About 1/4 to 1/3 of the mash is in an ice-house, consisting of an under- withdrawn during the brew and fed to a ground store-cellar with a fermenting cellar mash copper (E) were it is boiled and above it, both cooled by the natural ice in the then added back to the mash tun, thus upper part of the building, from Julius E. Thausing's, The theory and practice of the raising the temperature. This may be preparation of malt and the fabrication of done 2 or even 3 times to give step beer, published in 1882. changes in mashing temperature. The system is called decoction mashing. It use in the period we are surveying. There was developed purely empirically but was also fermentation carried out at may now be seen as providing a range of lower temperatures with yeast which temperatures in which the enzymes sank to the bottom of the vessel; what required for protein and carbohydrate became known in Anglophone countries degradation, which differ in their heat as lagers from the German verb lagern, stability, can operate. At the end of the to store. In this system, as operated in mash the contents of the mash tun is fed the mid 19th century, fermentation would to another tun (H), the lauter or clarifying typically be conducted in an ice-house tun, which is usually wider than the mash [Fig. 13].27 But it was not just in the area tun proper and has a slotted plate false of fermentation that brewing practice in bottom through which the wort filters thus continental lager breweries differed separating the wort from the spent grains. significantly from that in Victorian British The wort is then fed to a wort copper (K) ale breweries. Brewhouse procedures were it is boiled in the ordinary way. The were very different. This was because arrangement is shown in practice in a British and continental malts were very nearly contemporary picture of a German different. British malts were what is called brewhouse [Fig. 15] which clearly shows ‘well modified’ i.e. produced in such a the four vessels.

66 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Figure 14. A German brewhouse from George Scamell & Frederick Colyer's Breweries and maltings: Their Arrangement, Construction, Machinery, and Plant, 2nd edition pub- lished in 1880.

Until the 1840s bottom-fermentation was of bottom-fermented beers. The first pale unknown outside Bavaria and Bohemia straw coloured lager, for the product of (where it had been practised since about Munich was dark brown in colour and that 1400). It was then, instigated to an extent of Vienna a reddish brown, is usually by the efforts of Gabriel Sedlmayr jnr ascribed to Josef Groll a German brewer from the Spaten Brewery in Munich and working in Pilsen in October 1842. Lager Anton Dreher from his family brewery at was first produced in Norway in 1843 and Schwechater just outside Vienna, that lager began to spread [Fig. 16]. On a trip to Britain in 1833 the pair had indulged in what has been described as industrial espionage,28 learning the use of the sac- charometer and thermometer and the techniques of large scale brewing. They were not above rather underhand behav- iour such as secretly taking samples in breweries using hollow walking sticks. On their return home Sedlmayr and Dreher Figure 15. The brewhouse of the Hanover became apostles for lager and applied Brewery Company c. 1900 showing left to what they had learnt in Britain's more right, the mash copper, the mash tun, the advanced ale breweries to the production lauter tun and the wort copper.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 67 on Lake Erie. Ebrehard Anheuser and Adolphus Busch utilized the cool caverns of St Louis. Adolph Coors the Colorado mountains. From the 1870s these German-Americans developed a new style of lager brewed with readily avail- able cereals, notably maize (corn) and in Anheuser-Busch's case rice as diluants for the high nitrogen six-rowed barleys grown in the USA. These adjuncts were used unmalted and were gelatinised before addition to the malt mash. Although banned in Bavaria, there was nothing new in the use of unmalted adjuncts, but what was different from mainstream European practice was the high level of use. The Americans used Figure 16. Gabriel Sedlmayer (left) and Anton them at levels of 50% or more of the grist. Dreher in c. 1860. This coupled with the development of an accelerated brewing process where more famously Jacob Christian Jacobsen storage time was minimised and filtration made the long journey from Copenhagen used for clarification, led to the develop- to the Spaten brewery in 1845 and ment of unique very pale coloured, del- obtained some yeast which he carefully icate, beers.29 preserved in his hat box on the return journey and used it to produce his first From the 1860s, the increasing availabil- lager (a dark one) in 1846. A year later he ity of efficient artificial refrigeration freed built a new brewery on a hill overlook- lager brewers from the need for natural ing Copenhagen and called it after his ice.30 Lager and ale brewers alike adopt- young son Carl and its location: hence ed all year round brewing. Refrigeration Carlsberg. Lager was making significant was initially used to produce ice but was inroads in north Germany by 1850 and soon applied to direct cooling via expan- Gerard Heineken, seeing which way the sion coils [Fig. 17]. Lager now became a wind was blowing, switched from ale to world drink. The first successful commer- lager brewing in Amsterdam in 1869. cial brewery in Japan, the Spring Valley Lager was to be found on the other side Brewing Company set up in Yokohama of the Atlantic from the 1840s. Frederick by an American W. Copeland in 1869, Pabst, Frederick Miller and Joseph evolved into the Kirin Company and Schlitz exploited Lake Michigan's ice for brewed lager. German brewmasters lager production. Bernard Stroh similarly brought brewing to China for the first time

68 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Figure 17. An ammonia compression refrigeration machine in a US brewery, from Julius E. Thausing's, The theory and practice of the preparation of malt and the fabrication of beer, pub- lished in 1882. in the 1870s; Tsingtao lager from what is ing what at least was called lager, may now China's biggest brewer, was an early have been taken place within a decade or product. Hampered by lack of suitable so thereafter but the evidence for these materials and the climate, local beer pro- early attempts is sketchy.31 Experimental duction in Australia only started to out- brewing of genuine lager took place at strip imports in the 1870s. Lager brewing William Younger's Holyrood brewery in reached the country in the late 1880s, 1879 and what was probably the first with the American émigré Foster Brothers purpose built lager brewery in the UK beer, brewed by the German brewmaster was built in Wrexham in 1882. Tennents they brought with them using domestic started brewing lager in Glasgow in 1885. cane sugar as an adjunct to malt, going But it remained very much a niche drink on sale in Melbourne in 1889. Lager had in the UK (about one percent of the UK been imported into Britain since about market in 1960, by which time lager made 1850 and the first tentative steps at brew- up c. 20% of the market in Scotland).

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 69 Concurrent with the spread of lager brew- the practical utility of science which he ing came more emphasis on a scientific communicated in a very high profile man- approach to brewing, the most famous ner, rather than in the detail of Pasteur's early practitioner being Louis Pasteur. work on beer where we may detect his Until Pasteur carried out his investiga- real impact on the brewing industry. One tions on wine and beer fermentations in undoubted practical outcome of Pasteur's the 1860s and 1870s and showed the work, however, was the growing adoption importance of eliminating deleterious of that great Victorian gentleman's high bacteria, there was little practically useful tech. plaything, the microscope, for use in advice available to brewers on how to breweries [Fig. 18]. Pasteur was not the prevent their beers unaccountably going first to use a microscope in a brewery,34 off. In a wider context, it was through the but it was certainly he who popularised it. investigation of the production of wine, A technology which was quickly accepted vinegar and beer that Pasteur estab- in most quarters of the brewing world was lished the importance of micro-organisms pure yeast culture introduced by Emil in causing disease. The far reaching Christian Hansen at Carlsberg in 1883. significance of Pasteur's work on fermen- Where Pasteur had identified bacteria as tation can thus not be doubted. What is the causes of brewing problems, Hansen less clear is the actual impact his work extended this to the presence of harmful had upon fermentation practice and yeasts. Pasteur had purified yeasts by brewing in particular.32 Pasteur's Etudes acid washing to kill the bacteria. Hansen sur la Biere published in 1876 and selected a single strain of yeast from the translated into English as Studies on unreliable and variable mixed cultures Fermentation in 1879, is often cited as then in use in the brewery and in so doing revolutionising the industry. This is something of an exaggeration. The fer- mentation technology he devised, which essentially involved aseptic procedures in a closed vessel, found very limited application. His advocacy of the danger of aerial infection in breweries found more adherents, but in time it became clear that a greater hazard came from contact of wort with dirty surfaces and the drip of germ-ridden condensations.33 Even the heat treatment technique which bears his name and which became so widely used was not recommended by him for use with beer on the grounds that Figure 18. The brewers' microscope as it spoilt the flavour. It is in his advocacy of advertised in the Brewers' Journal in 1882.

70 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Fermentation Type

Bottom Top

Germany 67 Chile 5 Finland 1 Belgium 5

USA 17 Switzerland 4 Japan 1 France 5

Sweden 11 France 3 Mexico 1 Denmark 3

Russia 10 Argentina 3 Philippines 1 Germany 2

Holland 7 Uruguay 2 Poland 1 Holland 2

Norway 6 Australia 1 Spain 1 England 1

Denmark 5 Bolivia 1 Venezuela 1 Finland 1

Austria 5 Brazil 1

Table 1. Spread of Hansen's Yeast Culture Plants - Breweries with pure yeast culture plants in 1892. Number in each country by fermentation type

significantly improved the consistency of Technical training and quality control fermentations and the reproducibility of beer flavour. Table 1 shows the impres- To be at the top of lists was typical of the sive spread of Hansen's pure yeast prop- German brewing industry by the closing agation plants around the world within ten decades of the 19th century. Trade and years of his first demonstration of the technical journals proliferated from the technique. Only in Britain was there sig- 1860s, with Germany having the earliest nificant resistance; one British brewery, and most examples.36 The first record of Combes, makes the list. There were var- lectures being given on brewing is in ious reasons for this; these go beyond Prague in 1818, but by the end of the mere English conservatism, and centre century Germany provided the most around the impossibility of producing widespread technical education at English stock ale with a single strain of Weihenstephan (outside Munich), yeast, and the negative influence this had Nuremberg, Worms and most impressive- on the thinking of UK brewers.35 In con- ly in Berlin. These institutions did teaching trast to England, Germany was quick to and research, and provided an analytical adopt the new technique and easily tops service to brewers. No such institutions the list. were established in Britain. The first brew- ing school in Britain to not arrive until

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 71 1899 at the newly established was Edward Ralph Moritz, London born of Birmingham University and then at Heriot German descent with a PhD from Watt College in Edinburgh in 1904. But Göttingen, appointed Consulting Chemist these were of little account in comparison. to the Brewers' Society when only twenty- Training of brewers in the UK was, and six he was the founder of what became continued to be, by a pupilage system, in the Institute of Brewing. Not all consult- which the trainee paid a fee for the privi- ants had the credentials enjoyed by lege of on the job tuition by a brewer Moritz, the unregulated system encour- and/or consulting chemist. There was no aged quite a lot of quackery, and one institutional analytical service available to must question the ability of even the most UK brewers, indeed attempts to provide knowledgeable chemists to deliver quite such a service were opposed by the pri- what they promised.37 Indeed Moritz was vate consulting chemists who derived a not above earning the odd guinea or two steady income from the industry. By the by having his rather overblown reports 1880s there were many of these consult- used to advertise his customers' beers. ants to choose from. At least a dozen in Figure 19 is an example, with much said London and others in provincial cities and about ‘absolute purity … wholesomeness of course in Burton. Particularly prominent … tonic …’ etc.

Figure 19. An 'Analytical Report' used as a testimonial.

72 The Journal of the Brewery History Society This raises the question of the nature of it is sometimes dismissed as. The illustra- quality control in UK breweries. To what tions are undoubtedly somewhat sani- extent was in-house analysis carried out tised from more disorderly reality, but we and who did it? The evidence is conflict- do get fairly detailed accounts of plant ing. Thus Edward Frankland, Professor and equipment and the organisation of at the Royal College of Chemistry in the breweries. The decline in the produc- London testified to the Royal tion of old vated beers like porter is clear, Commission on Scientific Instruction in as is the rise of ‘running beers’, which 1871, that ‘brewers … keep almost a were made to be brewed, packaged and constant stream of students passing drunk within 4 weeks.42 The benefits through the College. They employ a con- derived from greater scientific under- siderable number of chemists in their standing and measurement is something breweries, some of them two in the same Barnard is particularly keen to make part brewery … ‘.38 Where-as Charles of his accounts. From these descriptions Graham, Professor of Chemical a picture of the role of quality control in Technology at University College late Victorian British breweries emerges. London, was able to tell the Royal Five levels of increasing sophistication Commission on Technical Instruction in can be detected in the 112 breweries 1882 that amongst breweries there was Barnard visited.43: ‘scarcely a laboratory anywhere else in England except at Burton’.39 To make Level 1: No mention of quality control, or sense of this one must look at the context if it is mentioned it is restricted to visual in which each statement was made. examination of barley, malt and hops by a Frankland was trying to justify his position north light window, the nosing of casks and show the success of his teaching. and the use of the saccharometer in Graham on the other hand was eager to brewery. 55 breweries meet this descrip- give reasons why he should start a new tion. course at UCL.40 More impartial informa- tion on the penetration of laboratories Level 2: A bench in the brewers' office into late Victorian breweries in the UK containing basic analytical equipment may be drawn from the writings of Alfred e.g. a microscope, colorimeter, simple Barnard who travelled all over the coun- glassware, perhaps a forcing tray for test- try in the late 1880s visiting breweries. ing the microbiological stability of beer, He produced a four volume work on his and some scientific books. 21 breweries travels which is now something of a col- meet this description. lector's piece.41 Barnard was no critic, virtually everything he came across was Level 3: A separate room set up as a described in glowing terms, but he did brewers' laboratory with analysis carried record clearly what he saw and his work out by one of the brewers. In addition to a is much more than the ‘coffee table’ book microscope, colorimeter and forcing tray

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 73 there would usually be water baths, a bal- ures above, counting brewers' and ance, extensive glassware and even chemists' laboratories, by the late 1880s sometimes a fume cupboard. 25 brew- there were at least thirty six breweries in eries meet this description. Britain, one third of the total visited by Barnard, which had a laboratory. Nor is Level 4: A chemist's laboratory with there any good reason to discount the analysis carried out by a qualified dedi- brewers' laboratory which could be very cated chemist. In addition to the appara- well equipped, as in the example shown tus listed for level 3, equipment might at Hanson's Kimberley brewery [Fig. 20]. also include photomicrography equip- It is also possible that Barnard missed ment, a polarimeter, ovens and incuba- the odd laboratory. Certainly it is strange tors. Routine water, barley, malt, beer, that he notes Ind Coope to have a labo- and hop analysis would be the norm. Six ratory at Burton but does not mention one breweries (Wm. Youngers (Edinburgh), at Romford, even though other evidence Mann Crossman & Paulin (London), Ind indicates that the company were employ- Coope (Burton), Barras (Newcastle), ing a chemist at the latter brewery in the Truman (London), Benskins (Watford)) 1860s/70s.44 What is clear is that the meet this description. presence of an in-house laboratory in the 1880s was not particularly determined by Level 5: Chemists' Laboratories. A the size of the brewery. Certainly many of chemist and usually assistants in a labo- the smallest breweries lacked such a ratory with more than one room. There facility, but so did the biggest of them all, would often be a dedicated instrument Guinness, which had no laboratory when room and balance room. Equipment Barnard visited Dublin and would not would be as for level 4 but might also have one until the 1890s. Nor does contain such sophisticated, and difficult Barnard note a laboratory in most of the to operate, apparatus as that required for big London breweries. Indeed, Courage, combustion analysis of elemental carbon Reid, Meux, City of London, and even & nitrogen. Research activity was likely. Whitbread with their much vaunted Five breweries (Allsopp, Bass, Pasteur connections, do not even have a Worthington and Salts, all of Burton and bench in the brewers' office by Barnard's H & G Simmonds of Reading) meet this account. One wonders what had hap- description. pened to the legendary microscope the directors of Whitbread are said to have Thus, scrutiny of Barnard goes some way bought after Pasteur's visit to the brewery to support Charles Graham's contention in 1871? that there was ‘scarcely a laboratory any- where else in England except at Burton’ The big Burton breweries were of course but only if one ignores all but the most a special case and employed chemists sophisticated laboratories. From the fig- from the 1840s. The significant export

74 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Figure 20. The laboratory at Hanson's Kimberley brewery, from Alfred Barnard's Noted Brewerries of Great Britain and Ireland. Volume 3, published in 1890. trade in India Pale Ale encouraged their outside the day job - synthetic organic early adoption, for the breweries could chemistry on which he published over get drawback of duty on exported beer 100 original papers and became a world and needed someone technically skilled authority. He is regarded today by histori- to carry out the distillations and weigh- ans of chemistry as a chemist of the first ings required to determine original gravi- rank, whose work laid the foundations of ties and thus substantiate a claim. Also the dyestuffs industry. (2) At Bass there the delicacy of IPA made it much harder was Cornelius O'Sullivan, he spent 40 to produce than dark rough beers like years with the company until his death in porter and a chemist was seen as useful. 1907. He made his name in carbohydrate Four of Burton's brewers' chemists rose chemistry, the enzymology of the mash to particular distinction. In order of senior- tun, closely associated with his brewing ity we have: (1) At Allsopp's there was work. (3) At Worthington there was Peter Griess who was their chemist for Horace Brown, a botanist, who did 25 years until his death in 1888. He ful- ground breaking work on barley germina- filled a full role as a chemist in the brew- tion and worked for thirty years for the ery, but he also had an abiding interest company before falling out with the

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 75 redoubtable Arthur Manners. (4) Finally ars from one particular manufacture, there was Adrian Brown, Horace's some- Bostock & Co., led to probably the great- what less talented younger half-brother, est tragedy to affect the brewing industry who specialised in problems to do with in England. This came about when sul- yeast, and spent 25 years with Salts phuric acid contaminated with arsenic brewery before becoming the first profes- was inadvertently used in the production sor of brewing at the newly formed of glucose and invert-sugar. The sugar Birmingham University in 1899. All four was used to brew beer over a period of men were elected Fellows of the Royal some nine months before its effects were Society. spotted. Seventy people died and at least 6000 others had symptoms of arsenic poisoning.45 On the positive side, the The spread of the brewers' chemist affair led to the realisation that arsenic, at low but not negligible levels, was present The number, if not necessarily the quali- in many batches of malt due to the fuel ty, of brewers' chemists was gradually to used for kilning. Indeed it is likely that increase as the 19th century drew to a arsenic poisoning from this source had close. Employment of chemists in brew- been an unrecognised danger for gener- eries then received a boost, somewhat ations before the poisonings of 1900. The indirectly, by an unexpected conse- Royal Commission appointed to investi- quence of the implementation of the 'Free gate the matter established the concept Mash Tun Act' of 1880. This piece of leg- of the maximum permitted level of mate- islation changed the basis on which duty rials in foodstuffs.46 Arsenic being the was paid on beer. For the previous fifty first environmental hazard to be con- years duty had been levied on the raw trolled in this way. The scare also led to materials (primarily malt; sugar had been much work for chemists, particularly con- allowed since 1847 but was not particu- sulting chemists who made a pretty larly advantageous to use because of penny out of it. But, it also led brewers duty differentials), now it was to be levied increasingly to recognise the virtues of directly on beer. Brewers were now free having a chemist on site to test materials to use any wholesome source of extract for safety as well as brewing value. This they wished. This led them to employ also made sense in economic terms. The 'malt substitutes' which soon made up brewers had been stung by the amount around 20% of the grist for many beers. they had needed to pay consultants dur- Flaked maize and rice were commonly ing the arsenic scare, why not have their used 'adjuncts', but many brewers pre- own man on site who may well be useful ferred the added convenience of ready in other ways? The growth in the lighter made processed 'brewing sugars'. In running beers and bottled beer trade 1900, twenty years on from the 'freeing' which required more attention added of the mash tun, the use of brewing sug- strength to this view. The comments of

76 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Edwyn Barclay, looking back from 1910 strength at 5.5% alcohol by volume, reflect this:47 ‘… the most far-reaching unlike beers later sold in the UK under innovation was the starting of a laborato- the name lager, both home-produced and ry in the brewery. Constant analysis of all imported, which had alcohol contents not materials has, of course, given an accu- much above half of that. The first brewery rate knowledge which has led to many research laboratory in the UK was estab- improvements and alterations’. There are lished by Guinness in 1901.52 After five no published data on the growth in the year's of allowing free publication when numbers of scientists employed in brew- run by Horace Brown (ex Worthington's) eries. From examination of brewery this became a very secretive place, with archives, obituaries, trade and scientific Guinness banning its staff from publish- journals, membership lists etc my provi- ing anything of their work. The ban lasted sional estimate is that in 1900 there were for 40 years. Mash filters [Fig. 21] were around 20 consulting chemists who spe- first used in the UK by Benskins in cialised in brewing practising in the UK. Watford in 1903,53 followed a few years By 1910 the numbers of consultants had later by Vaux in Sunderland, but found not increased, but the number of dedicat- few other takers in the country for anoth- ed brewers' chemists operating inside er 90 years. What was effectively keg ale breweries had more than doubled to per- (although it was of course not called haps as many as eighty.48 that), chilled, filtered and carbonated draught beer dispensed with CO2 top pressure came to Britain in 1905, when Things to come William Butlers', Springfield Brewery launched it in Wolverhampton. They per- The seeds of many other changes were sisted with the experiment until 1914 but also laid as the 19th merged into the 20th then dropped it because of consumer dis- century.49 Chilled and filtered bottled ale, like of the product.54 ‘All foam and no called non-deposit beer because it had flavour’ was one comment at the time no yeast sediment in it, came to Britain in concerning chilled and carbonated 1897 via the USA.50 Lager produced quickly using straight single temperature infusion mashing and minimal maturation time arrived two years later, with the launch of Allsopp's lager. This beer, while fermented with bottom-yeast at low tem- perature had a total production time from mashing to reaching the bar of only 3 weeks, as opposed to at least as many 51 months for continental lager at the time. Figure 21. An Edwardian Mash Filter, from It was, however, at least of continental the Brewing Trade Review 1905.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 77 beer.55 Breeding of hybrid strains of bar- Was Delbrück right? ley originated in 1905 with the crossing of the varieties Plumage and Archer by E. S. To go back to where we came in. Was Beavan to give a new variety destined to Max Delbrück correct in his prediction of dominate the malting crop from the 1920s 1884? Has the sword of science and the to the 1940s.56 E.S. Salmon's hop breed- armour of practice enabled German beer ing programme which started the world- to encircle the world? With over a hun- wide movement to improved varieties dred years of hindsight the answer is a began at Wye College in Kent in 1906.57 qualified yes, but not quite in the way he Also in 1906, Ludwig Nathan was granted meant. In the years that followed an English patent58 on a vessel with a Delbrück's statement, German brewing ‘rigid cylindrical iron shell [and] a glass lin- scientists proved rather more adept at ing made up of curved glass plates' for accumulating data than using it - to an use in brewing; the first step towards the extent handicapped by German practice, cylindro-conical fermenter which sixty which was governed by the years latter would start to come into its Reinheitsgebot, or 'commandment for own. Aluminium was used for fabrication purity', a consumer protection or trade of fermenters and storage vessels in protection measure depending upon your Germany in 190959 and a year later in the viewpoint, which restricted their freedom UK; and the metal would have a certain of action. On the other hand, German vogue for a couple of decades until stain- brewmaster's proved extremely influen- less steel took over. In 1911 Leo tial across the world. If you go into any Wallerstein, a first generation German- large modern brewery today, including American consulting brewers' chemist, those few which still brew ale, you will noting the increasing propensity of see equipment originally designed for Americans to store their beer in the ice- use with bottom-fermentation and it is fre- box, came up with a method for chillproof- quently manufactured by German firms. ing beer to stop it going hazy in the fridge Lauter tuns are to be found everywhere. by treating it with proteolytic enzymes in But all is not as it seems at first glance. the brewery.60 Walter Scott of Ansells in Outside Germany and the Czech. Birmingham patented his eponymous Republic lauter tuns are seldom used in yeast plant in 1913.61 In this system yeast complicated decoction mashing regimes, is drawn off from an open fermenting ves- rather programmed infusion mashing is sel under vacuum, forced through a filter the norm; you don't see many mash cop- press and the filtrate returned to the fer- pers any more. Mash filters for ultra swift menters. The economies thus provided processing are also increasingly replac- were soon to have particular appeal to ing lauter tuns and they have their origins brewers when, as a consequence of the in Belgium. The ubiquitous cylindro-coni- First World War, excise duties rose to cal fermenter originates in Switzerland, unprecedented levels and stayed there. not Germany; Ludwig Nathan was from

78 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Zurich. But, there is no denying that Cambridge University Press: Cambridge. p. lager, cold-produced bottom-fermented 610. beer, has encircled the world. With sales 6. Bud, R.F. & Roberts, G. K. (1984) buoyed by increasing consumption in Science versus Practice: Chemistry in developing countries, lager is truly the Victorian Britain. Manchester University world drink. Even in the UK, which has Press: Manchester. pp. 14-15. Green, J.H.S. steadfastly maintained volume ale pro- (1957) 'Robert Warrington (1807-1867)'. duction longer than anywhere else, over Proceedings of the Chemical Society, pp. 70% of the beer sold is lager - and much 241-246. of the ale and stout now served in pubs is 7. The graduate was William Ferguson dispensed at very low temperatures to (1810-1869) who obtained a BA. degree in make it seem more like lager! However, I Dublin in 1833. Bud, R.F. (1980) The doubt if Max Delbruck would recognise Discipline of Chemistry: The Origins and the lager of unrivalled blandness which Early Years of the Chemical Society of now sells the most worldwide as having London. Unpublished PhD thesis, University much to do with what he knew as of Pennsylvania, pp. 137-138, 166. Anderson, German beer.62 R.G. (1992) 'The pattern of Brewing Research: A Personal View of the History of Brewing Chemistry in the British Isles.' Journal of the Institute of Brewing, 98: pp. 85- Notes and References 109, 86, 88. Burtchaeli, G.D. & Sadler, T.U. (1935) Alumni Dubliniensis. Alex Thom & Co.: 1. Delbrück, M. (1884) 'Ueber Hefe und Dublin. Gärung in der Bierbrauerei', Bayerische 8. Mathias, P. (1959) The Brewing Bierbrauer, 19, p. 312. ‘Mit dem Schwerte der Industry in England 1700-1830, Cambridge Wissenschaft, mit dem Panzer der Praxis, so University Press: Cambridge. p. 552. wird Deutsche Bier die Welt erringen’. 9. ibid. 551. 2. Data from The Brewers' Journal 1891, 10. Ritchie, B. (1992) An Uncommon 27, p. 315 & The Brewers' Almanac 1899, p. Brewer. The Story of Whitbread 1742-1992, 145. James & James: London. pp. 28-29. 3. Pennant, T. (1793) Some Account of 11. Mathias, P. op cit. 85. The odd brew- London (3rd Ed.). R. Faulder: London, p. 313. ery out was Trumans, which did not have a via Pearson, L. (1999) British Breweries. An steam engine until 1805. Architectural History, Hambledon Press: 12. Sumner, J. (2001) 'John Richardson, London. p. 31. saccharometry and the pounds-per-barrel 4. Barclay, C. (1830) Parliamentary extract: the construction of a quantity'. British Papers, X: 16. ‘We are the power-loom brew- Journal of the History of Science, 34, pp. ers, if I may so speak’ 255-273. 5. Gourvish, T.R. & Wilson, R.G. (1994) 13. Sumner, J. (2006) 'Early heat determi- The British Brewing Industry 1830-1980. nation in the brewery'. Brewing History. The

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 79 Journal of the Brewery History Society, 121, N. Spon: London. p.391. pp. 66-80. 24. Pearson, L. op cit.(3) pp. 41-46. 14. Morrice, A. (1802) A treatise on brew- 25. Scamell, G. & Colyer, F. (1880) ing: wherein is exhibited the whole process of Breweries and maltings: Their Arrangement, the art and mystery of brewing the various Construction, Machinery, and Plant, 2nd edi- sorts of malt liquor; with practical examples tion upon each species. H.D. Symonds: London. 26. A note on terminology. A quarter is an Appendix 181. English measure of malt and barley. 15. Corran, H.S. (1975) A History of Originally the quarter was a volume measure Brewing. David & Charles: Newton Abbot. pp. and it was assumed that 1 quarter of barley 170-174. Mathias, P. op cit. pp. 76-78. would yield (about) 1 quarter of malt. Later, Commercial brewers have by definition quarters were defined by weight such that a always sought to maximize their profits, but quarter of barley weighed 448 lb. and a quar- this is perhaps the first example of using ter of malt 336 lb. (See Briggs, D.E. (1998) instrumental data in order modify brewing Malts and Malting. Blackie: London. p. 80.). technology purely on economic grounds. Thus the number of quarters of malt Certainly there seemed to be an indifference processed by a brewery is a measure of its to porter flavour changes in adopting the new capacity. The assumptions generally made grist and the brewers got away with it. A when constructing a brewery to serve a given precedent had been set. volume of trade were that: 1. Four barrels of 16. Cornell, M. (2003) 'Porter myths and beer was the average yield from a quarter of mysteries'. Brewing History. The Journal of malt. 2. The plant brews once a day four days the Brewery History Society, 112, pp. 30-39. a week (thus leaving room for expansion if 17. Anderson, Ray (2003) 'Microbes and necessary by brewing on the fifth day without the origins of porter'. Brewing History. The addition to the plant). 3. The brewery is in Journal of the Brewery History Society, 113, operation 50 weeks of the year. (See 27-30. Bradford, W. (1891) 'Brewery Construction' 18. Mathias, P. op cit. (11) p. 62. Transactions of the Institute of Brewing 19. Corran, H. S. op cit.(15) pp. 183-211. (Laboratory Club), 4, pp. 110-111.). It follows 20. Steel, J. (1878) Selection of the prac- therefore that a 5 quarter brewery would be tical points of malting and brewing and stric- designed to produce 5 x 4 x 4 x 50 = 4000 tures thereon for the use of brewery propri- barrels per year and would have a capacity of etors. Privately published: Glasgow pp. 121- 5 x 4 x 5 x 50 = 5000 barrels a year. 122. 27. Thausing, J.E. (1882) The theory and 21. Corran, H.S. op cit.(15) p. 191. practice of the preparation of malt and the 22. Hind, H.L. (1940) Brewing Science fabrication of beer with especial reference to and Practice. Chapman & Hall: London. Vol. the Vienna Process of Brewing. Henry Carey 2, pp. 808-817 Baird: Philadelphia pp. 556-604. 23. Moritz, E.R. & Morris, G.H. (1891) A 28. Teich, M. (1993) 'A case of industrial Text-book of the Science of Brewing. E. & F. espionage in brewing', in A Special Brew.

80 The Journal of the Brewery History Society Essays in honour of Kristoff Glamann, ed. History. The Journal of the Brewery History Thomas Riis. Odense Univerity Press: Society, 121, p. 9. Odense pp. 183-187 37. A jaundiced view of chemists is evi- 29. Anderson, R.G. (2003) 'Beer' in dent from James Steel's 1878 book on brew- Blocker, J., Tyrell, I. and Fahey, D (eds) ing (Steel, J. op cit.(20)) the preface of which Alcohol and Temperance in Modern History: contains this passage: ‘The chemist has hith- An International Encyclopaedia. Santa erto been helpless in the brewery, because, Barbara: ABC-Clio, Vol1., pp. 92-100. not having learned the art of Brewing, he 30. Hård, M. (1994) Machines are Frozen could have no theory, and having neither art Spirit. The Scientification of Refrigeration and nor theory, his presence has as yet done Brewing in the 19th Century - A Weberian more harm than good’. Even Steel, however, Interpretation. Campus Verlag: Frankfurt am who found fault with almost everyone, sound- Main. ed a note of optimism when he continued: 31. Wilson, R. (1993) 'The Introduction of ‘When the chemist has been presented with Lager in Late Victorian Britain', in A Special the facts of the position and a base to oper- Brew. Essays in honour of Kristoff Glamann, ate from, he will doubtless become in the ed. Thomas Riis. Odense Univerity Press: brewery, as elsewhere, of the highest utility’. Odense p. 199. Emollient words but not a particularly accu- 32. Anderson, R.G. (1995) 'Louis Pasteur rate prediction of future relations between (1822-1895): An assessment of his impact on practical brewers and chemists. Thirty years the brewing industry'. Proceedings of the 25th later, by which time chemists had something European Brewery Convention Congress, of a ‘base to operate from’, their ‘utility’ Brussels pp. 13-23. caused other problems. In 1908 the 33. Hind, H.L.. (1936) 'Progress in Operative Brewer's Guild was set up by ‘prac- Brewery Fermentation during the last Fifty tical men’ who resented the influence of ‘sci- Years'. Journal of the Institute of Brewing, 42, entific men’ in the brewery and sought to p. 514. redress the balance. The lack of sympathy 34. In 1839 Robert Warington of Trumans between the two factions was to rumble on to was a founder member and sat on the first the end of the period we are reviewing and council of the Royal Micoscopical Society in beyond (See for example, Editorial Notes. London. Turner, Gerald L'E (1989) God Bless Practical or Scientific? Journal of the the Microscope! The history of the Royal Operative Brewers' Guild, 1914, 1, pp. 29- Microscopical Society over 150 years. 16. 30). 35. Anderson, R.G. (2006) 'One yeast or 38. Royal Commission on Scientific two? Pure yeast and top fermentation. Part1: Instruction I, 1872, C. 536 Minutes of A question of flavour and condition'. The Evidence,5834, p 369. The actual evidence Brewer & Distiller, 2 in the press. produced by Frankland to the Commission 36. Anderson, R.G. (2006) 'The transfor- showed that from a sample of 366 of a total mation of Brewing: An Overview of Three of 1008 students trained at the college since Centuries of Science and Practice' Brewing its foundation in 1845, only twenty were pur-

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 81 suing careers in the brewing industry and of (1903). Cd. 1848, p. 5. these eleven were known to be connected 46. ibid. 50. ‘In our view it would be with three of the Burton breweries. (See entirely proper that penalties should be Sigsworth, E. M. (1964-1965) Economic imposed under the Sale of Food and Drugs History Review, 17, 538.). Frankland may Acts upon any vendor of beer or any other therefore have somewhat exaggerated his liquid food, or any liquid entering into the 'constant stream'. composition of food, if that liquid is shown by 39. Royal Commission on Technical an adequate test to contain 1/100th of a grain Instruction III, 1884, c. 3981, answers to Q or more of arsenic in the gallon; …’. Although 1523/4, 145. the recommendations of the Royal 40. Anderson , R.G. (1992) op cit. (7) p. Commission were not given statutory force 94. until 1959, they came to represent good man- 41. Barnard, A. (1888/1891) Noted ufacturing practice and were accepted by the Breweries of Great Britain & Ireland. Joseph Courts (The Arsenic in Food Regulations, Causton & Sons: London. 1959, S. I. No. 831). 42. Baker, J.L. (1905) The Brewing 47. Barclay, E. (1910) 'Obituary Notices. Industry. Methuen & Co: London, p. 116. Frederick Lincoln Bevan'. Journal of the 43. There are 108 separate entries (chap- Institute of Brewing, 16, pp. 67-68. ters) covering brewing companies and 5 48. Anderson, R.G. ‘Gravity. Tint & entries for malting companies in the four vol- Bitterness. The Rise & Fall of the Brewers' umes of Barnard's work. Four of the brewing Chemist’ in preparation. company entries (Charrington (London & 49. Anderson, R.G. (2006) 'History of Burton), Ind Coope (Romford & Burton), Industrial Brewing' in Handbook of Brewing . Mann (London & Burton) and Truman Eds Fergus G. Priest, Graham G. Stewart. (London& Burton)) cover two production sites Second Edition. CRC Taylor & Francis: Boca in two towns/cities. These are counted as Raton, London & New York pp. 1-37. separate breweries for the purposes of this 50. Van Laer, N. (1900) 'The Chilling and comparison. Where companies have more Filtering of Top-fermentation Beers', Journal than one production site in a single town/city of the Institute of Brewing, 6, pp. 439-450. (Allsopp (Burton), Bass (Burton), Wm. 51. Anon (1899) 'Allsopp's Lager Beer Younger (Edinburgh) and Steel, Coulson Installation', The Brewers' Journal, 35, pp. (Glasgow)) these are treated as a single 646-652. brewery. Hence the figure of 112 used here. 52. Anderson, R.G. (1992) op cit. (7) p. 44. Anon (1875). 'Obituary notices, Henry 96. Although Guinness was the first to estab- Medlock', Proceedings of the Chemical lish a research laboratory in the British Isles, Society, 28, pp. 1317-1318. a case can be made for it not being the first 45. Final Report on the Royal to employ a dedicated research scientist. In Commission appointed to enquire into 1889 Arthur Landauer Stern went to work for Arsenical Poisoning from the consumption of Cornelius O'Sullivan when the latter was beer and other articles of food and drink head brewer at Bass' New Brewery in Burton.

82 The Journal of the Brewery History Society The appointment was to assist with research 58. Nathan, L. (1906) 'Improvements in work in a private capacity for O'Sullivan and the Construction of Vessels for Use only some years later did Stern join the staff Particularly in the Sterilised Manufacture of of the brewery. Beer' English Patent 5619, 8th March 1906; 53. Cannon, M.J. & Brown, H. (1906) via Journal of the Institute of Brewing, 1907, 'The Filter Press in the Brewery' Journal of 13, p. 296. the Institute of Brewing, 12, pp. 11-27. 59. 'B' (1909) 'Aluminium Fermenting and 54. Anon (no date) W. Butler & Co. Ltd. Storage Vats' Wochenschschrift für Brauerei Brewing-Room Note Book. 4-5. Coors Visitor 26, 361-362, via Journal of the Institute of Centre. Museum of Brewing. Uncatalogued Brewing, 1909, 15, pp. 716-717. archive material. 60. Wallerstein, Leo (1956) 'Chillproofing 55. Smith, S.W. (1912) 'Notes on some and Stabilization of Beer' Wallerstein problems concerning bottled beer' Journal of Laboratories Communications, 19, No. 65, the Institute of Brewing, 18, p. 11. pp. 95-110. 56. Lancaster, H. (1942) 'Obituary. Edwin 61. Scott, W. (1913) 'Means of Handling, Sloper Beaven 1857-1941. Journal of the Skimming and Pressing Yeast' English Patent Institute of Brewing, 42, pp. 31-33. 21,925, 29th September 1913. 57. Darby, P. (1998) 'A Century of Hop 62. Adams, R. (2003) 'Busch case nipped Breeding' Pauls Malt Brewing Room Book in the Bud', The Guardian, 18th February, 16. 1998-2000. R.H. Beach (ed), 57-61.

Brewery History Number 123 Summer 2006 83