NO.2 VOL.10 | OCTOBER 2018 ISSN 2586-9191 WWW.URBANAFFAIRSMAGAZINE.COM Explore one of the best Explore oneofthe best staycations in the city staycations inthe city 137 Pillars A ShoppingWonderland JJ Market Waldorf Astoria makes itsdebut inSoutheastAsia The legendary hotel chain MaiMai Eatery Ayutthaya noodle soup Ayutthaya noodle soup gets genteeltreatment Free Copy

Publisher & Editor Photographer Editor’s Letter Vasu Thirasak Teerarat Yaemngamluea hailand was recently voted the world’s Best Country for People by readers of Condé Nast Traveller UK in Copy Editor Advisor T their 2018 Readers’ Travel Awards, while Bangkok was Manoj Tripathi Anyamanee Chan-Oum chosen as the number one city in the Mastercard’s 2018 Global Fashion Editor Circulation Director Destination Cities Index. aims to break last year’s record Pekky The Angel Nithi Thirasak of 35 million visitors by at least eight percent this year. So far we have already welcomed over 22.6 million visitors in the first seven Graphic Designer Marketing Director months, an 11% increase from the same period last year. Unyanun Punkaew Sunida Thirasak Digital Media Designer Editorial Assistant The news is welcoming and uplifting for the country, with Raquel Villena Mogado Monthira Amornboonyakrit tourism officials patting themselves on the back for a job well done. But when it comes to how we got to where we are today, Contributors we always hear the same old reasons how Thailand became one of the world’s top tourist destinations: its unbeatable geography, Dave Stamboulis is a travel writer and photographer based connectivity initiatives, and a host of A-list destinations such as in Bangkok. In addition to working as the updating writer Phuket and Chiang Mai. These places continue to draw tourists for Fodor’s guidebook to Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, he with a touch of Thainess and probably “Thai smiles”. is the “Bangkok expert” for USA Today’s 10Best website and a regular contributor for various publications throughout But is it true? If we look closely at the things happening in and Southeast Asia. around touristy areas, we’ll see that we’re very lucky to be where we are today. Frankly, the fundamentals of a successful tourist Born and raised in Bangkok, J. Pakchuen studied English and destination are still not there yet. translation at Chulalongkorn University. Currently, she lives in Washington, D.C. where she works as a translator, interpreter, Our public transportation is a mess: vans, buses, taxis, tuk- writer, and tour guide. tuks, motorbike taxis, or railways. The service provided by Based in Bangkok, Ploylada Sirachadapong started her their personnel is downright substandard, to say the very writing career as a food critic, and after eight years of visiting least. Popular destinations like Chiang Mai and Phuket are so restaurants around Bangkok she now expands her writing overcrowded while other surrounding cities seem empty of genre to include travel, fashion and architecture. tourists. Rampant petty crimes go unreported in places, and the police’s willingness to deal with these incidents in a professional Pekky The Angel is a fashion, beauty and lifestyle expert and manner is questionable. And I don’t even want to go into issues blogger. Visit her page at www.facebook.com/pekkytheangel/ like the lack of long-term destination management, sustainable or www.pekkytheangel.com . environmental protection, illegal labor, and the accessibility for persons with disabilities. Born and based in Bangkok, Naam Sombatanantakorn is one of the co-founders of Viajente, a travel agency that offers We can sugar-coat the situation with the accolades we’ve received various natural and cultural travel programs. She is a lifelong and turn a blind eye to the sordid facts on the ground. But unless learner and loves to travel. we take a step back for a moment and look into the fundamentals instead of focusing on just wooing more tourists, we’ll never be English-born Christopher Scott Dixon, based in Bangkok, able to fix these age-old problems. is an experienced writer and ex-BBC radio reporter/presenter. He has contributed many features to a variety of publications While the Tourism Authority of Thailand's marketing machine in Thailand and in the UK. He has also written 17 books across is going to great lengths to keep tourists coming, Tourism and different genres and is a qualified teacher. Sports Minister Weerasak Kowsurat was quite frank when he Swisa Ariyapruchya was born in Switzerland and spent her said his ministry – which is responsible for tourism regulation childhood growing up in Belgium, Poland, Thailand and the and infrastructure – is ill-equipped to fix the problems. Maybe USA. She is multilingual and speaks four languages. Apart from it’s time for the two tourism agencies to join hands and get their her work as a central banker, she began her lifestyle blog Having act together so that we can develop some sort of sustainable “Me” Time in 2010 and has since continued to write in her spare tourism as befitting the world’s top tourist destination. time. She is also co-founder of Booster Education Co., Ltd. and - VT COVER PHOTOGRAPH: TEERARAT YAEMNGAMLUEA PHOTOGRAPH: COVER Booster Analytics Co., Ltd. Pick a copy at: Villa Market, Mezzo Coffee, Creamery Boutique Ice Cream, Pacamara Coffee Roasters, Ceresia Roasters, Gallery Drip @urbanaffairsmagazine urbanaffairsmagazine Coffee, The Hive Thonglor, Hubba Thailand, KliqueDesk, www.urbanaffairsmagazine.com [email protected] The Work Loft, Never Say Cutz, Bumrungrad Hospital, Bangkok Hospital, and Broccoli Revolution.

© Copyright 2018 Urban Affairs Bangkok. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, scanning or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except where noted. Views expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. No. 2 Vol. 10 October 2018 ปีที่ 2 ฉบับที่ 10 ตุลาคม 2561 ISSN 2586-9191 URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 l 3 ARCHITECTURE

1 PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF WALDORF ASTORIA BANGKOK ASTORIA BANGKOK COURTESY OF WALDORF PHOTOGRAPHS: 2 1 Waldorf Astoria Bangkok’s lush lobby with white and matte gold color tones. 2 Luxurious and spacious guestrooms have stunning views of the city. 3 The city skyline with Magnolias Ratchadamri Boulevard in the center.

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Waldorf Astoria Bangkok In the Lap of Luxury

BY PLOYLADA SIRACHADAPONG

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or many, Bangkok has become the city The vibe – relaxed yet lavish – can be felt to keep an eye on. Besides the myriad of throughout the property, from a street level arrival F remarkable brand names that have set up area and the oasis found at the upper-level lobby to shop here, the vibrant dining scene is also changing the sensuous guestrooms and multiple dining and fast with a growing collection of Michelin-starred event venues. restaurants and celebrity chefs flying in every week to stage lavish fine dinners. The lobby welcomes guests with its cozy decorations and soft-tone colors, with the dominant colors In hospitality, the city has just witnessed the being white and matte gold, with the baby blue opening of yet another world-renowned hotel. colored chairs adding a decorative, soft touch. This time it’s Waldorf Astoria making its debut The perforated wall and up-to-ceiling clear glass in Southeast Asia. As one of the world’s most mirrors enhance the ambience and create a gauzy, luxurious hotel brands, it’d be a crime not to wax refreshing feeling. lyrical about the majestic grandeur of the hotel’s architecture. There are 171 residential-style guestrooms and suites. Luxurious and spacious, the rooms have Spanning levels 6 to 16 and 55 to 57 of the 60-story a homey feel, each coming with a spa-inspired Magnolias Ratchadamri Boulevard, Waldorf bathroom, a marble bathtub, and a hardwood Astoria is a bold juxtaposition of luxury and floor. The bed in the Deluxe rooms is set right next artisanal Thai style that is the work of André Fu and to the clear glass mirror so that its occupants can his team from AFSO who designed the main areas. absorb the beauty of Bangkok day and night.

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Besides the astonishing guestrooms, the hotel boasts three restaurants, a lounge and two bars. The Front Room, serving Nordic-Thai cuisine, has a seating capacity of 80 and merges modernity with Thai influences in design.

The interior's color is reminiscent of Thai spices: mineral grey infused with tropical lime green and mustard accents. Its centerpiece is the lighting installation in the middle of the dining area inspired by the lights during Loy Krathong festival.

Located on level 55, Art Deco-inspired Bull & Bear offers superb grilled meats and seafood cooked on a custom-made grill. The Brasserie serves traditional French brasserie fare with 4 locally sourced ingredients.

One of the signature venues of Waldorf Astoria is Peacock Alley. “Peacock Alley” was the colonnade hallway connecting the then two separate hotels – The Waldorf and The Astoria – in in the 18th century, where notable New Yorkers socializes. This tradition continues to this day as Peacock Alley is slated to become the place “to see and be seen.”

The ambience of this sophisticated yet cozy lounge is exquisite, with heavy bronze and wood decorations, a large marble wall and a counter situated in the middle of the room. The floor- to-ceiling transparent glass mirror lightens the mood and provides patrons with magnificent views of the cityscape. 5

The Loft – a New York art nouveau-inspired bar located on level 56 – serves artisanal spirits and cocktails from The 1935 Waldorf Astoria Bar Book, a bartender’s recipe bible written right after the US prohibition era. On level 57 is the Champagne Bar, with the best fine wines and champagnes – and the best view of Bangkok.

Now that Waldorf Astoria brings to Bangkok its palatial style, legendary narrative and a unique hospitality experience, it surely redefines what we mean by "luxury" in this city, and promises an unforgettable hotel experience to all modern- day visitors looking for a staycation of a lifetime.

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok 6 151 Ratchadamri Rd., Lumpini, Patumwan 4 The Front Room offers quintessential Thai and new Nordic cuisine. Tel. 02 846 8888 5 Peacock Alley – the place 'to see and be seen.' www.waldorfbangkok.waldorfastoria.com 6 The Loft’s décor is inspired by New York art nouveau.

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1 2 PHOTOGRAPHS: TEERARAT YAEMNGAMLUEA PHOTOGRAPHS: 4 3

1 Viva 8 restaurant's eccentric Spanish Chef Fernando Andres Yusta poses near his seafood paella pan. 2 The walking street is festooned with umbrellas providing shade for pedestrians. 3 The iconic 'Muay Thai' boxing shorts, a must-buy item for all visiting tourists. 4 Haggling over the price is mandatory at JJ Market.

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JJ Market BY CHRISTOPHER SCOTT DIXON

ho said size doesn’t matter? When it For first-time shoppers it may seem total chaos as comes to markets, one of the world’s you push your way through the hordes of humanity W largest outdoor venues is based here in sweating under the fierce heat or soaking from the Bangkok. Chatuchak, or more commonly known falling rain, but there is order. One main walkway as “JJ” (Thais phonetically translated the name to encircles the whole market and this branches off into a Jatujak), has achieved almost iconic status for many series of carefully numbered alleyways called Soi 1, Soi locals and foreigners alike. 2, etc. These alleyways are then grouped into various sections – 27 in all. Located on the northern edge of the city, JJ Market is next to Chatuchak Park and only a few minutes’ walk Look for other reference points as you walk around, away from the Mor Chit BTS terminal station. There for example, the clock tower, numbered entrance is also regular and easy access to and from the nearby gates, banks or the BTS and MRT exits to help you MRT Chatuchak Park station. Get out at exit number locate where you are. You can also pick up a map from one for both the BTS and MRT stations and just follow the information booth. the crowds. A number of buses also provide frequent services which run past the market on their way to As with any crowded place, do keep a close watch on other destinations. your belongings, it is all too easy to be hypnotized by the sights and sounds around you as you walk. Do It has been more than 13 years since I first set eyes also wear a hat or use an umbrella as protection from upon JJ and it’s always an utterly fascinating mix of the sun and the rain. You will have to walk for several stalls and shops, allied to a unique atmosphere. To call hours, so light clothing and sensible footwear are JJ a market is almost an insult. It is a city within a city, recommended. spanning around 35 acres with an eye-popping total of more than 15,000 shops and stalls offering a wide Take some liquid refreshment with you too, as you can range of products, including clothing, accessories, pets, suffer very quickly from dehydration and the effects plants, handicrafts, house decorations, souvenirs, and of the high temperatures and humidity. If you do get many more. I have been to JJ on numerous occasions, tired, there are many food stalls where you can rest but have still not explored everything fully, the scale of and just people-watching. choice is truly breathtaking. Try to bargain if you can, a little Thai can help, but most The market has been in its current site since 1982 , then of the stall holders do speak some English. Exercise called Phahonyothin Market, but has transformed caution when you buy items, check them thoroughly itself from a wholesale and traders’ venue into what is for any damage, as many vendors sell factory rejects. now a world-acknowledged shopping landmark. The Especially with “antiques”, don’t trust that they are fabled clock tower was constructed to celebrate HM always genuine, make sure you are happy with what the late King ’s 60th birthday in you purchase. 1987 and the market was finally renamed "Chatuchak". There is a myriad of products and goods to tug at JJ is actually three markets in one. From Wednesdays your purse or wallet, but recommended must-buys to Thursdays it focuses on plants and gardens, Fridays also include home decorations, stunning furnitures, are for wholesale night markets, and Saturdays and fascinating art objects, and some wonderfully Sundays are for the weekend event where all the areas handcrafted kitchenware. are opened. The weekend market sees more than 200,000 visitors per weekend. The opening times on Whether you are a novice or veteran visitor to JJ Wednesdays and Thursdays are from 7am to 6pm, Market, it remains an intoxicating, intriguing, Fridays from 6pm until Midnight, and Saturdays and bewitching fusion of a market, a place where you can Sundays from 9am until 6pm. literally shop till you drop!

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Awk Phansa: Sanook Celebrations BY DAVE STAMBOULIS

any folks tend to turn away Legend has it that a group of monks and ceremonies called thod kathin take when they hear the term traveled during the wet season and place during this time, during which new M“religious celebration,” thinking damaged plantations as they trod through robes and offerings are made to the monks. of some somber and drawn out affair that during their alms march. Thus the Buddha is especially tedious if one isn’t a disciple or forbade travel during this time and Also taking place throughout Thailand believer. Yet Thailand is home to this rare recommended that monks stay in one during this period is the long boat races, mix of the faith and fun. Awk Phansa, also place. Even from a city-dweller’s point of part of the celebrations of getting outdoors known as “The end of the Buddhist Rains view, this makes perfect sense. Who wants again, as well as being hopefully blessed Retreat,” celebrates the end of the three to go out even to get som tam on the corner with abundant water for a bountiful month Buddhist Lent period which this when your soi is knee deep in water? harvest. But near Bangkok, there are a few year falls on Oct 24. festivals highly worth checking out. Buddhist Lent is a time for meditating and The holiday is celebrated on the full moon giving up material things or addictions. The first is Rap Bua, known in English day of the eleventh lunar month, when Some people stop eating meat, drinking as the "lotus throwing" festival. Found monks come out of their meditation alcohol, or smoking, and for the monks, throughout temples and related to heavenly retreats, coinciding with the end of the it is a time to retreat to their temples and beings in Thai literature, the country’s rainy season. However, a few seemingly spend hours meditating. At the end of the most important flower is honored at the wild and wacky festivals near Bangkok three month period, the monks come out Bang Phli temple in Samut Prakan accompany the rituals here, and offer a of hibernation and go back into the world. province, where a boat carrying a figure great chance to see some unique Thai In Thailand, it’s a popular time for Thai of the famed Buddha image “Luang Phor cultural tidbits as well as have a blast. men to spend a short time being a monk, Toh” sails down the Samrong Canal.

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While this may sound devout, the reality Meanwhile, just down the road in Chonburi aboard the beast without being thrown is far more bizarre. Thousands of revelers province, another unique Awk Phansa over, and then getting the pair out of the line the banks of the canal just after dawn, event takes place just hours after Rap Bua starting blocks facing straight ahead at and while "rap bua" technically means finishes. The Chonburi Buffalo Races have the start of the race. “lotus receiving,” what goes on instead is a origins that go back a century, and tie into hysterical free for all, with people flinging the end of Buddhist Lent in that farmers The buffalo has been the subject of many flowers at the boat, the Buddha image, wanted to give thanks for a successful crop reports over the past few years as to how and all the other floats, parade boats, and after the rains, and of course their irrigated they are slowly becoming extinct in Thai anyone who is misfortunate enough to be fertile crops had been aided by their water society. Motorized tractors and other manning them. buffaloes, so they started a festival paying technologies have replaced them in the homage to the beasts of burden. fields, and their bodies used as meat in Locals also throw flowers at visitors as an expanding carnivore trade. a way of welcoming them to join in the Farmers bring in hordes of buffaloes from merit-making event, and the entire event the countryside in the morning, with the Hopefully festivals like this can keep somewhat resembles the Songkran water main event of the day being the 100 meter the spotlight on the animals and how fights, only here you’re more apt to get hit buffalo dash (or should we say gallop?), valuable their contribution has been to by a bouquet rather than a cold spray! when the animals compete for some hefty Thai society, while giving folks a chance prize money. to go out and have a fun day at the races By the end of the morning, people are lined as well. up five rows deep armed with flowers, all The buffaloes actually can get a real burst trying to outdo one another for distance of speed once they take off and are headed Awk Phansa will fall on Oct 24 this and direct hits, and the main boat with the in a straight direction, and there really are year, but Oct 23 will also be a public Buddha image is completely buried in lotus some exciting and epic finishes between holiday – Chulalongkorn Day – so hope petals, with the management committee several riders. The hardest part of the the working public can get out and have heading the boat covered in flowers. race seems to be getting the jockey some fun! PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVE STAMBOULIS DAVE PHOTOGRAPHS:

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The World As It Is: Factfulness BY SWISA ARIYAPRUCHYA

arlier this year you may according to Rosling we should no because we would then have an overly probably have come across longer use these terms and instead dramatic world view where we believe E the news about how Bill see where each country is according things are worse than they really are. Gates was giving away free copies of to income groups. We fail to see the progress we’ve made the book Factfulness: Ten Reasons and see only the negative side. We’re Wrong About the World – And Rosling breaks countries down into Why Things are Better Than You four income groups and each level is Failure to see the progress we have Think by Hans Rosling to all college characterized by different standards made in the world can be detrimental graduates because he believed they of living. Each level is represented by for if we only see how bad the world should continue to keep learning after a photograph and a clear description is, we would be likely to believe leaving school. of the differences. This is important that nothing can be improved. If because if we did not break the world we recognize the achievements and It sparked my interest and after into four levels, we would succumb progress we have made, we would watching Hans Rosling’s TED Talks to the "Gap" instinct and imagine tend to believe that we can help make and reading reviews, I had to get a sharp division between countries the world a better a place and thus myself a copy. I also had to make sure where in fact there were none. more prone to take action. I got a printed copy versus buying it on my Kindle as there are colored This, acccording to Rosling, is because The book is an eye-opener and has graphs on the inside cover. I’m glad I humans are prone to binary thinking indeed changed my perspective on did for it is unlike any other books I’ve and dividing things into just two how to view or put data and facts into read and definitely worth the read. distinct groups. Doing so is dangerous perspective. I am guilty of succumbing to many of the instincts he Hans Rosling was a mentions. As humans we medical doctor, professor of have instincts that may lead international health and a us astray and cause us to have renowned public educator misconceptions. who spent a large part of his life working to fight ignorance I especially love how the book and encourage a fact-based is such an easy read with worldview. The book was examples that are relatable his final gift to us summing and easy to understand. The up his life’s work and ideas. examples were based on his His children Ola and Anna own life experiences. It is finished the book after he simply written yet chock-full died of pancreatic cancer. of ideas and food for thought.

The book’s main goal is offer The book is best devoured readers with a framework of slowly, over a cup of tea and how to think about the world. with time for reflection in He talks about 10 instincts between each chapter. While that distort our perspectives reading, take a look at the on the world from the “Gap” colored graphs inside the instinct to the “Urgency” covers and be intrigued with instinct. For example, I Factfulness: Ten Reasons We're Wrong About The World the information provided. constantly use the terms – And Why Things Are Better Than You Think This book is definitely worth "developed" and "developing" By Hans Rosling your time, for you will find to describe the country's that your way of thinking will development progress, but Available at Asia Books, Kinokuniya and leading bookstores. never be the same again.

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1 PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF 137 PILLARS SUITES BANGKOK COURTESY OF 137 PILLARS PHOTOGRAPHS: 2 1 The Cabana Lounge on the rooftop 2 The Sukhothai Suite's modern-style, circular bathtub 3 The infinity pool on the rooftop for suite guests

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137 Pillars Bangkok’s Sleek and Suave Staycation BY DAVE STAMBOULIS

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hose looking for a place to pamper property followed, but rather than trying London cab service available to shuttle themselves with a city staycation, to create a classical duplicate of its sister guests down to the BTS and EmQuartier, T or else recommend visiting friends property, stays more in tune with the city and back), there are plenty of cool modern for the best spot to chill out and escape the vibe and is hidden away off of Sukhumvit, amenities to keep the latest gadget-lover city heat and hecticness, usually head in the yet near enough to all the happening spots happy. Bathrooms feature state-of-the-art direction of the Chao Phraya river, opting on Thonglor to combine the best of city Japanese toilets with heated seats, and for a wistful glimpse of Bangkok’s “Venice living with total escape. suites come with espresso machines, iPod of the East” glory days at some of the classic docks, huge digital IPTVs with Bose sound hotels there. Yet city dwellers don’t need to 137 Pillars features 34 stylish suites systems, and even 24-hour private butler travel that far for some real pampering, as named after royal periods in Thai history service! the slightly hidden-away 137 Pillars Suites – Rattanakosin, , Ayutthaya, and Residences Bangkok can fulfill pretty Sukhothai – and the palatial quarters Perhaps best of all are the outstanding much anybody’s city-escape dream. are fit for royalty. Ranging from 65-125 infinity pools which occupy the upper square meters, suites come with wood- floors of the resort. The one on the roof is 137 Pillars is probably better known paneled walls, lots of modern artwork, for suite guests only (137 Pillars also has for its Chiang Mai property, which has plush bedding, and spacious balconies 179 residences that feature studio and 1-2 received worldwide acclaim for its design overlooking the cityscape. The rooms also bedroom options, suitable for both short- and detail evoking Thailand’s storied come with huge marble-floor bathrooms and long-term use), and overlooks all of past. A meticulously restored teak wood that feature large stand-alone circular Bangkok, and is one of the city’s premier house and the former headquarters of the bathtubs which look out of bay windows to sunset soaking spots as well as being Borneo Trading Company over 125 years the city below. incredibly romantic. The other pool (for ago, the property is considered a haven of residents) is on level 27 and is no slouch tranquility and the benchmark of Chiang Despite the bygone era trademark of 137 either, also infinity-edge, with a spacious Mai upscale luxury retreats. The Bangkok Pillars (along with a complimentary vintage lounging area behind it.

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Even if you don’t end up staying at 137 served with nan bread made of ravioli and Chiang Mai – offers cocktails, cigars, and Pillars, I highly recommend coming ghee-buttered edamame beans. a colonial vibe. Hotel suite guests can also over here to experience a meal at Nimitr, avail themselves of the private check-in the hotel’s suave fine dining option that Even local Thai favorites get a unique lounge upstairs, which does exclusive combines responsible Oriental cuisine makeover here. Tom yum goong is served breakfasts and complimentary high tea with a bit of molecular-style magic, all set as a cool gazpacho with lobster terrine and in the afternoon, followed by free happy above the city, offering fantastic views and Ikura caviar, and pretty much everything hour cocktails and snacks starting in the an uber-romantic vibe. on the menu just tantalizes and wows the evening. You’ll pretty much forget about taste buds. stress and city life perched up on the roof Indonesian sous chef Nanang Prasetya or in your sleek quarters here, gazing out Aditama, who has worked chef’s tables Chef Nanang perhaps saved his best for last at the sky with a cold drink in hand, and from Bali to the , has designed though, going back to his Indonesian roots enjoying the impeccable service. and crafted together a unique Asian-fused and serving up pisang ijo, a traditional menu here, with presentations that rival iced banana dessert from Makassar. The property snuggles just off of the one molecular Bangkok stalwarts like Gaggan Steamed banana rolls are put on pandan way section of Sukhumvit Soi 39, to the and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, both in look and rice mousse and served with coconut ice point that even taxi drivers have a tough taste. cream inside of a perfectly created ice time finding it, yet it is only a stone’s grotto ball, which melts as you dig into the throw from outside restaurants as well as During my stay at 137 Pillars, I sampled mesmerizing creation. Thonglor’s vibrant nightlife. If you want Nimitr’s sous-vide snow fish, in which the an intimate, romantic, and yet firmly city- Nordic cod gets marinated 24 hours in Just upstairs from Nimitr, the Jack Bain's based stay, come try the elegant 137 Pillars sweet miso and lotus root dashi, along with Bar – its name dedicated to a gentleman property in Bangkok, and you might end a plate of lamb tandoori, where barbecued whose family lived in the teak homestead up staying past the weekend if you aren’t organic New Zealand lamb cutlets get that is now the 137 Pillars property up in careful.

137 Pillars Suites and Residences Bangkok 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel. 02 079 7000 www.137pillarsbangkok.com

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4 Jack Bain's Bar 5 The Sous-Vide Nordic Snow Cod Fillet 4

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Overcoming Language Barriers

BY J. PAKCHUEN

ike many other Thai students, I If you love going to Japan like I do, basic in their brains’ hippocampus and areas of started learning English as a foreign Japanese could literally enhance your travels the cerebral cortex, which were related to L language at a young age. Not there. Useful terms like sumimasen (excuse language learning, when compared to the until Mathayom 4 (Grade 10) did I had me) or arigato gozaimasu (thank you other group. the chance to learn French, another new very much) will surely make you feel more foreign language. Although I can use Thai welcome. These may have resulted from how the and English quite efficiently on top of my brains need to juggle between the two or fair knowledge of French, I picked up other Boosting Your Brain more languages and the need to increase languages such as Japanese and Spanish Several studies suggest that learning a new their recognition ability, understand the along the way just to satisfy my passion for language could help your brain function context, and respond in a different language. new languages and traveling. There are so better. According to a study by the American many advantages of learning a new language Academy of Neurology, people who speak Studies also show that students who study and it's never too late to start! more than two languages have lower risks of foreign languages tend to score better on developing memory problems. standardized tests, especially in math, Career Boost reading and vocabulary categories. Learning a new language can open more doors – whether it is a part-time or a full-time Saving Lives job. Knowing an additional language gives English philosopher Francis Bacon once you the upper hand, especially if you want said that “Knowledge is power”, which to work for international companies or non- is very true. We can frequently see how profit organizations. Many multinational knowing another language can help others conglomerates in hospitality, energy or just by watching the news. Whenever technology would prefer someone who can there’s an incident, we will likely see speak at least one language of the countries the need for volunteers who can speak they’re operating in. different languages to help foreigners who are either professionals assisting others If you have your own business, knowing or the victims themselves affected by the another language can also help you expand incident. your client base into countries that use your new language. You can also go side-gigging as The rescue of members of the Wild Boar a tour guide, translator, interpreter, or tutor. football team and their coach from a cave in Chiang Rai province is a case in point. A Window to the World In the 2006 tsunami, we also saw Thai and Before traveling overseas, I try to learn the foreign volunteers helping the victims, all language prior to visiting the country. Even communicating in different languages. with a basic grasp of grammar and some useful phrases, it’s possible to get into a All in all, learning a new language is a conversation with locals and bone up on rewarding challenge to take on. It is also fun their culture. Traveling would be much easier Another study also shows that speaking a and you can also get to make new friends. especially in countries where English is not a second language may delay the onset of three There are many language schools that offer lingua franca. types of dementias: Alzheimer’s disease, front different language classes for beginners temporal dementia and vascular dementia. and advanced students with tutors who There are over one billion people speaking are native speakers. But to make it work, Mandarin, such as those in , Taiwan A research project by the Swedish Armed you need a good reason to be inspired to and Singapore. Spanish comes in second Forces Interpreter Academy tested two take on a new language – whether it is for with over 470 million people speaking groups of students: one group was under an upcoming trip to a new country or the the language in Spain, Mexico, Colombia, an intensive language learning class for 13 will to understand your favorite foreign Argentina, Peru, Chile, Ecuador, Panama, months, and the other was subject to intensive soap opera in its native language. Let’s and many more. There are about 80 learning that was not related to language. hope you can find the passion, motivation million people speaking French as their first The results from the MRI scans of their or inspiration either from culture, music, language and 140 million others speaking it brains show that the students who took the food, business, people, or traveling to learn

PHOTOGRAPH: OLI LYNCH / PIXABAY LYNCH OLI PHOTOGRAPH: as their second language in over 25 countries. intensive language class had greater growth a new language soon!

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Oodles of Boat Noodles BY PLOYLADA SIRACHADAPONG

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ocated at the Peninsula Plaza Bangkok on elegant modern décor, single color theme and chilled- Ratchadamri Road, MaiMai Eatery is a out ambience. The all-blue venue is bright and beautiful L testament to a family’s passion for food spanning during the day thanks to the sunlight that floods in three generations. The restaurant’s family narrative is through the skylight ceiling. nothing if not gripping as it’s beautifully and deliciously delineated in each dish. The story of the widely respected founder and her family seems to pervade every inch of the restaurant. The story of MaiMai began decades ago when The coasters bear a printed image of either Thanpuying Thanpuying (Thanpuying is an honorific title similar Chanut's first car or the family’s lovely pet dog. to High Lady) Chanut Piyaoui introduced the original Ayutthaya boat noodles to the posh high-end mall, “For our family, food has always been a vital link between and soon the famous Penin Boat Noodle was born. us. Whether it be a family vacation or a weekend get- Fast-forward 30 years and after several menu and together, our activities usually revolve around food. This theme makeovers, Sunong “Mai” Salirathavibhaga is why every dish here portrays the story and love from and Chalita “Mint” Salirathavibhaga – Thanpuying our family which we want to share with our guests,” Chanut’s daughter and granddaughter – decided to opt explains Chalita. for a change of name in favor of “MaiMai Eatery” while keeping the original signature menus unchanged. The menu includes many standout delights inspired by the family’s favorite dishes and flavors. The renowned Given the luxurious mall’s classic style, the owners “Penin Boat Noodle” is served with the tantalizing have lately brought a breath of fresh air and glamor aroma of the herb-infused brown broth that wafts up

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF MAIMAI EATERY PHOTOGRAPHS: to their newly refurbished restaurant, now with its from the kitchen even before the soup lands on the table.

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The noodle dish should keep beef lovers happy as it comes with rib-eye beef. Morsels of the raw and thinly sliced beef are placed in the bowl before the chef pours the soup over it so that the beef becomes medium rare and juicy.

“Boat noodle is one of the most famous Thai street dishes, but we want to bring it to a new level. So after experimenting a few twists, we came up with the perfect combination of high-quality beef with authentic boat noodle broth,” says Chalita.

Another must-try dish is "Thai Pork Satay with Thai-style Toast" that’s accompanied with rich peanut sauce and refreshing ar-jard dip. The pork is well-roasted with the subtle sweetness from a coconut milk marinade. The ar- jard – a mixture of thin cucumber slices in vinegar – brings freshness to the rich satay and helps cut the greasiness perfectly.

“Stir-Fried Flat Noodle with Fried Fish, Black Beans and Gravy Sauce” – Thanpuying Chanut’s favorite dish – is 2 flat rice noodles and carefully sourced fish stir-fried until golden brown with black beans and spices, and topped with gravy sauce. The dish says a lot about the chef’s meticulous attention to detail as evident in the freshness of the ingredients used and the balance of flavors that is just right.

The restaurant’s traditional Thai set meals include the popular “Sticky Rice and Papaya Salad with Barbecued Pork Ribs”, which is worth trying. The barbecued pork just melts in your mouth and the som tam, or papaya salad, is well-seasoned and complements the flavor of the pork.

“Stir-Fried Rice Mackerel with Fresh Thai Herbs” is simply amazing. The mackerel comes with a pleasant aroma from the lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and chili. The subtle spiciness is contrasted with the sourness from the lime.

“We want to keep the food here authentic and easy to understand while reminding our guests of homemade Thai cuisine and the tastes you’ll find at home,” adds Chalita.

There’s also a range of signature desserts to choose from. 3 “Banana in Syrup”, a traditional Thai delight, is not overly sweet and easily achieves perfection with a splash of 1 Penin Boat Noodle coconut milk. “Coconut Crème Brulee” is given a Thai twist, 2 Stir-Fried Flat Noodle adorably served in a coconut shell and has a chewy texture with Fried Fish, Black Beans and Gravy Sauce thanks to the use of coconut milk and fresh coconut meat. 3 Banana in Syrup Savoring these mouth-watering, Thai-style desserts is the best way to end a meal here.

MaiMai Eatery MaiMai Eatery is the perfect place for a quick and easy The Peninsula Plaza, 153 Ratchadamri Rd., Lumpini gourmet lunch or a flavorful dinner after a long day. Tel. 02 652 1399 Open daily from 10am to 8pm, it is a great place to feast www.facebook.com/maimaieatery on authentic Ayutthaya boat noodles and classic Thai dishes with a modern twist, while learning about a family’s interesting love affair with food.

URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 l 19 CULTURE

1 PHOTOGRAPHS: TEERARAT YAEMNGAMLUEA PHOTOGRAPHS: 2 3 4

1 Ajarn Chakrabhand's paintings on display 2 Handcrafted puppets 3 Decorative ornaments 4 Theatrical garments

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A Revolutionary Artist BY NAAM SOMBATANANTAKORN

hailand with its long history his wrist-movements just to make the connect the art and its story. Vallabhis has a rich cultural heritage and puppets’ dance look more natural,” says adds, “For instance, the backdrop scenes T a delightful blend of colorful Vallabhis. used in his puppet shows are inspired traditions, cultures and religions. While by his imaginings and they invariably remaining largely unrivalled, the Thai “His paintings are lively, tidy and very represent real places. For example, arts include fascinating mural paintings clean. While drawing, Ajarn Chakrabhand the principal backdrop for the puppet adorning the walls of temples and palaces would clean the brushes often and change collection Taleng Phai (aka Defeat of and treasure troves of antiques and ancient the water quite frequently,” he says. the Mons) depicts the landscape of the artifacts found in archaeological sites, Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary museums and temples. A graduate from Silpakorn University’s in Kanchanaburi province because after Faculty of Painting, Sculpture and Graphic meticulous research, he believes that the But to fully appreciate the legacy of Arts, Ajarn Chakrabhand has retained his battle mentioned in this historic epic might traditional Thai arts from the earlier unwavering love for the traditional Thai have happened in this area.” periods of Thai history, it’s important to arts. Yet his technique is not restricted to understand the mindsets of our dedicated the traditional methodologies, but rather The foundation is constructing a new artists, too. adaptive for better results. spacious museum that houses a theater on Saimai Road, which will soon serve as National Artist Chakrabhand Posayakrit, the new home for the artist’s priceless art 75, is one of Thailand’s renowned artists. collections and puppetry performances. Ajarn Chakrabhand (Ajarn meaning The construction project is funded by respected teacher) lives in a sylvan house donations and proceeds from the sales of on Ekamai Road in the heart of Bangkok. ancient Buddha images from his collection. The family home, which doubles up as the headquarters of the Chakrabhand Ajarn Chakrabhand is recovering from a Posayakrit Foundation, is currently hosting stroke that has left him partially paralyzed. a rotating art exhibition. Since its opening But that doesn’t stop him from carrying on recently, the exhibition has attracted lots with his work. of art lovers including the artist’s longtime fans and friends as well as academics from “Though his right part is paralyzed, various institutions. Ajarn still draws with his left hand. This exhibition not only shows his works and The exhibition displays the artist’s great artist talent, but we hope it will collections of artworks across genres and inspire new-generation artists to pursue disciplines including paintings, drawings, “He is a rational person and is willing to try their dreams and overcome any obstacles sculptures, puppets, theater sets, new things to improve his art, and would on their paths. It’s a pity that Ajarn doesn’t ornaments, and garments. Captions and hold theories and beliefs just for reference. have many students, but hopefully, the art descriptions for each art piece are provided He is a man of practice. He doesn’t believe itself can inspire more people to take on via a QR code. in the phrase ‘No one has ever done that these Thai arts,” Vallabhis enthuses. before,’” Vallabhis adds. Vallabhis “Tong” Sodprasert, the deputy The first of a rotating series of his exhibits director of the foundation and the right- “The materials used in each masterpiece is open daily to the public until Dec 25 hand man of the maestro, is on hand to have all been thoughtfully studied. Ajarn including on weekends from 1pm to introduce the exhibition. Chakrabhand doesn’t use only wood or 4:30pm. The entry fee is THB 100 (THB wax but mixes a range of various materials 50 for students with IDs). “Ajarn Chakrabhand is one of the most to create his works as well. For example, extraordinary and talented persons that I his puppets can bend hands, point fingers, have ever known. He has a strong will, yet and even draw a sword thanks to the use of he himself is very humble in his conduct elastic materials. Normal puppets cannot The Chakrabhand Posayakrit especially toward other people. He is strict display such agility,” he says. Foundation and very much disciplined. When he’s into 49/1 Sukhumvit 63 (Ekamai) something, whether it be a project or a Before creating any piece of work, Ajarn Tel. 02 392 7754 piece of art, he’ll put all of his effort into it. Chakrabhand would study the history www.chakrabhand.org For example, he spent months practicing behind the art and put it to good use to

URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 l 21 STYLE Pomelo BY PEKKY THE ANGEL ‘IN FAVOR OF ART’

FALL 2018 COLLECTION

e are coming nearer to the end of another year. Although we don’t have W the fall season in Thailand, we can adapt and embrace the fall fashion with grace – especially once you laid eyes on Pomelo’s latest fall collection.

Pomelo recently launched this year’s fall collection, “In Favor of Art”, with over 100 trendsetting pieces for women to curate into their own wardrobes. The collection is cut in wearable silhouettes intended for all occasion and comes in a kaleidoscope of colors – from pale lavender to fire engine red to deep teal.

Pomelo is one of my favorite clothing brands – and I don’t say this lightly. The style is hip, chic and modern, yet practical for everyday wear and very comfortable. Established here in Asia and now operating in over 50 countries, Pomelo was exclusively available for purchase online at PomeloFashion.com, until last year when this modern fashion brand opened its first “pop-up” store at so that customers can try out their products before purchase.

The highlights of Pomelo’s service are that shipping is free for the first orders bought online and all returns are completely free up to 365 days after purchase! That’s how much they believe in their products. The fun part is that you can drop them off at any 7-Eleven stores or selected BTS Skybox locations near you. Welcome to the real 21st century online “fashionable wear” shopping, satisfaction guaranteed!

22 l URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 STYLE Pomelo PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF POMELO PHOTOGRAPHS:

URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 l 23 LEISURE

The Oriental Spa’s 25th Anniversary Spa Menu BY PEKKY THE ANGEL

he Oriental Spa is celebrating its 25th anniversary with a new treatment menu “Essence of Thailand" consisting of the T “Spirit of Isaan” and “Lanna Ceremony”. The Oriental Spa is the first spa to open at the legendary Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Since its opening in 1993, the award-winning spa has been a pioneer in the Thai spa industry. It was named the first Forbes Travel Guide's Five-Star Recommended Spa in the Kingdom.

Drawing upon ancient traditional Thai techniques, the new treatment menu incorporates natural elements from the North and Northeast regions to deliver comprehensive 2.5-hour treatments for the discerning guest who wants to experience the best of the country’s rich traditions.

Every treatment begins with a private consultation with a therapist to determine each individual’s personal and current state of Spirit of Isaan: THB 8,239 net wellbeing. The treatment and oils are then tailored to each guest in Lanna Ceremony: THB 8,239 net order to leave the body, mind and spirit in perfect harmony. PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL PHOTOGRAPH:

For reservations or more information, contact [email protected] .

‘LA DOLCE VITA’ LIFESTYLE BUFFET AT LE MERIDIEN BANGKOK BY PEKKY THE ANGEL

ne of the best places to dine in CBD Bangkok is at La Dolce Vita, Le Méridien Bangkok. This O Mediterranean cuisine outlet recently launched a new “Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Brunch Buffet” which includes modern Mediterranean gastronomic delights, sushi and teppan grill servings, Italian dishes, and sumptuous seafood with plenty of oysters, mussels, clams, snails, prawns, and much more.

Prices start from THB 900 per person for lunch, THB 1,100 for dinner, and THB 1,700 for Sunday brunch. PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF LE MERIDIEN BANGKOK COURTESY OF LE PHOTOGRAPHS: For more information, contact 02 232 8888 or [email protected] .

24 l URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 STYLE Uniqlo U 2018 Fall/Winter Collection BY PEKKY THE ANGEL Wardrobe essentials feature vivid seasonal color palette and in-trend volumes

NIQLO has rolled out their UNIQLO U 2018 Fall/ Winter collection created by Christophe Lemaire- U led design team at UNIQLO’s Paris R&D Center. This year’s collection features vivid reds and fuchsias as rich and warm accents to symbolize the coming of fall. The styling emphasizes volume with dolman sleeves for women’s fleece blousons and boxy silhouettes for men’s fleece jackets.

The coats are water repellent and windproof, with women’s coats featuring snap-on hoods and hem slits that enhance comfort when walking or seated. There are two dress and three sweater designs for women. The mélange sweaters have raised looks and soft textures created with a special spinning technique while other sweaters come with vintage- style link knitting and items in comfortable ponte fabrics.

UNIQLO U 2018 Fall/Winter collection is available at selected UNIQLO stores and online at www.uniqlo.com/UniqloU . PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF UNIQLO PHOTOGRAPH:

HotelQuickly’s Expansion into Online Travel Platforms

BY PEKKY THE ANGEL

he up-and-coming hotel booking site HotelQuickly is partnering with the online travel- sharing community “travelbook“ and the online booking platform "eOasia". This T partnership will allow travelers to book discounted hotels and resorts on HotelQuickly, plan their trip through eOasia.com, and share their personalized travel experiences on travelbook.com – a complete loop of travel experience befitting the lifestyle of modern-day travelers.

“As the world is getting smaller, the potential for innovative platforms that interact and bring together these increasing numbers of travelers is getting bigger,” said Chief Executive Officer Jérôme Clé, who now serves as the Executive Chairman of HotelQuickly, eOasia and travelbook.

Established in 2012, HotelQuickly started as a last-minute hotel booking site across two continents, Asia and Australasia. Today, HotelQuickly is available in 16 languages, with millions of users worldwide. Headquartered in Bangkok, the company is backed by international investors following its

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF HOTELQUICKLY PHOTOGRAPHS: acquisition by Rising Sun Merchant Services.

URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 l 25 HAPPENINGS October

Mascots to join ‘Boomerang Fun Run’ Boomerang Thailand (aka “Boomerang Channel”), a provider of cartoon programming, is organizing “Boomerang All Stars Fun Run 2018” on Oct 21 at Wachirabenchathat Park, which is widely referred to as State Railway Public Park. The fun run – in 2.5-k, 5-k and 10-k – will see many cartoon characters turning up to join the event. Part of the proceeds will be donated to the SOS Children’s Village Thailand Foundation. Tickets are sold at www.werticket.com/running/boomerangfunrun .

Bangkok International Run 2018 The Bangkok International Run 2018 is being held on Oct 28 with the start and finish set in front of the United Nations building on beautiful tree-lined Rajadamnern Nok Road. The route runs through Bangkok streets, taking in some of Bangkok’s scenic spots including the Marble Temple, Chitralada Palace and the National Library. A portion of the proceeds will go to UNAIDS and partner-led initiatives to help people living with and affected by HIV. Registration fees are THB 400 for 10.7 km Mini Marathon and THB 300 for the 5.5 km Fun Run. For more information, visit www.amazingfield.net/event-detail- EN/Bangkok-10-km-International-Run-2018 .

Sam Smith in first Bangkok gig British pop-soul singer Sam Smith is making his Bangkok debut in “The Thrill of It All Tour” on Oct 28 at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. Smith is one of the UK’s leading singing artists with hits such as “Stay With Me”, “I’m Not the Only One”, “Too Good At Goodbyes” and “Pray”, the last two from his latest album “The Thrill of It All”. Tickets start at THB 2,000 and can be booked via ThaiTicketMajor outlets and www.thaiticketmajor.com .

YouTube star to perform ‘Voicenotes’ YouTube star and viral sensation Charlie Puth is coming back to Bangkok for a live performance titled “Charlie Puth Voicenotes World Tour 2018 Live in Bangkok” on Oct 29 at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. His hits include “Attention” and “How Long” from his second studio album “Voicenotes”. This looks set to be a memorable night packed with his infectious hits. Tickets ranging from THB 1,800 to THB 5,000 can be booked through www.thaiticketmajor.com .

Masterclass by world’s best jazz guitarist Guitarparadee and Sound Design Studio have joined forces to present “Scott Henderson Trio Live in Bangkok 2018” on Oct 29 at Prasert Na Nakorn Theater, Kasetsart University, Bangkok. The legendary American jazz fusion and blues guitarist will conduct two masterclasses on the day, from 4pm-5pm and 7pm-8:30pm. This is Scott’s first time to do a masterclass here in which he will talk about his technique, gear and sound. He’ll be joined onstage by Romain Labaye on bass and Archibald Ligonniere on drums. To book a ticket, log on to www.thaiticketmajor.com/ concert/scott-henderson-trio-live-in-bangkok-2018-en.html .

Khalid set to serenade Bangkok R&B’s latest sensation Khalid is heading to Thailand for “Singha Music Presents Khalid American Teen Tour 2018 Bangkok” on Oct 31 at GMM Live House on the 8th floor of CentralWorld. The American singer and songwriter has won a slew of awards, including Top New Artist at both the Billboard Music Awards in 2018 and MTV Video Awards in 2017. He received multiple Grammy Award nominations. Tickets start from THB 1,800 and are available at ThaiTicketMajor outlets or can be booked online at www.thaiticketmajor.com .

*Submit news, updates and press releases to: [email protected] .

26 l URBAN AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2018 Cast away on your private island

A haven of peace and relaxation off the coast of Rayong, only three and a half hours from Bangkok. Accessible only by our private boat, our resort is the only one on the island surrounded by untouched forest and pristine white sand beaches. An idyllic setting that is endlessly peaceful, this island is all about you and the sea.

The islanders are waiting!

Email:[email protected] www.munnorkprivateisland.com Tel:+66 2664 0975 - 6

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