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TEA JOURNAL: Introduction changes that give yellow its characteristic taste. similar to body heat, which causes the leaves turn yellow and undergo particular chemical heated in closed containers or under cloths, in a moist environment and at a temperature Only yellow go through this process, in which warm, damp leaves, once fixed, are lightly Smothering, sweltering or yellowing deactivates the oxidative enzymes. Fixing can also be done in a rolling drum. steaming the leaves or “panning” them in a wok ( is sometimes baked instead), which Oxidation needs to be stopped at the desired level for the type of tea, and this is achieved by Fixing or “kill-green” depth of taste and needs to be carefully judged. oxidation process will turn them progressively darker. Oxidation has a big influence on the environment for a certain amount of time (sometimes the leaves are also agitated), and the Not all teas are oxidized, but if they are, they are spread out in a climate-controlled Oxidation or fermentation by machine. The enzymes activated and the leaf juices released affect the flavour profile. tumbling baskets, or “disrupted” more extensively by kneading, rolling, tearing and crushing oxidation (or fermentation) process. They might be shaken and tossed in a bamboo tray or After withering, the leaves are bruised at their edges in order to encourage and quicken the Bruising, rolling or shaking the factory and therefore wither only for as long the truck ride. flavour. Some teas (green and yellow teas, for instance) are rushed straight from the field to blown over them. For how long depends on which tea is being produced and will affect its very slight amount of oxidation: leaves are either spread out in the sun, or have warm air oxidation begins. The withering process removes excess water from the leaves and allows a The fresh-picked leaves start wilting soon after picking, and the process of enzymatic Withering or wilting reduced. “CTC” teas are cut, torn and curled by machine, are usually destined for teabags. by hand; if done machine, the quality of tea leaves is likely, though not definitely, to be Picking of leaves or “flushes” (a “flush” is the bud and first two leaves) is generally done though some teas are picked more often. Autumn or winter pickings are much less common. Picking happens typically twice a year during early spring, late spring and/or summer, Plucking or picking many different teas within the types are so individual. only why the main types of tea have their own distinctive characteristics, but also why the “fixing” and “drying” are done at different temperatures for different teas. This explains not or not at all; “bruising” is done lightly more vigorously; “oxidation” doesn’t always happen; the way in which they go through them differs: some teas are “withered” longer than others carefully judged and handled by tea-makers. Not all teas undergo all the same processes, and The many different phases involved in getting tea leaves from the tree to your cup are From Tree to Tea TEA PUERH TEA TEA WHITE sweet and mellow through aging. fired a second time for this reason, and Puerh teas, which can be bitter harsh, become Additional aging, “secondary fermentation” or “curing” can help enhance flavour. are Curing, aging or post-fermentation crucial that the leaves are not overcooked. Oolong teas undergo a second firing. as 3% in black teas – and tea is now fixed, having skipped it at the earlier stage. It sun. In this way the moisture content of the leaves is reduced to the desired level - as little Leaves are stacked in hot-air rack dryers, or spread out and exposed to the natural heat of the Drying or firing stage into cakes, or bell, brick mushroom shapes. the case of some oolongs, rolled into spheres or half spheres. Puerh teas are shaped at this the flavour of tea. Leaves can be rolled into spirals, kneaded and rolled into pellets, or in causing some of the sap, essential oils and juices leaves to seep out, which intensifies Before the final drying, tea leaves are rolled and formed by hand or in a rolling machine, Rolling or shaping - - - Steaming ------hours several for Withered - - - Steaming ------wilting and indoor wilting Both sun - - - Steaming ------ihrn riigOiainFxn mteigRligDyn Curing Drying Rolling Smothering Fixing Oxidation Withering Hardly any Bruising Withering or CTC crushing Light in baskets tossed Shaken and rolling Light oxidation Full oxidation Partial - Baking --- or panning - - oln rig--- Drying Rolling ------or panning or baking Panning or panning (Japanese) Steaming (Chinese) - Rolling --- days for hours or conditions moist Heated in - Rolling or --- - Rolling or --- - Light --- shaping and/or oln rig--- Drying Rolling ball rolling forming rolling rigNatural Drying rigFiring Drying rig--- Drying rig--- Drying aging © 2012 Moleskine srl - All right reserved.

TEA JOURNAL: Introduction

appearance of the leaves. evaluating tea, however, is still the subjective appreciation of the flavours, the aromas, and the at which it was plucked and the manufacturing process. The most widely accepted means of When evaluating quality, tea experts consider the variety of tea, growing region, the stage (BOP) and Souchong(S). mixed (M). For example, BOPSM could be used to represent a broken-leaf mix of Orange Pekoe CTC broken-leaf, fannings and dust follow a similar scheme. Very occasionally, grades can be Broken-leaf Whole-leaf Classifications broken-leaf teas too. to leaf size. Although whole-leaf teas are considered superior, there are some outstanding (Crush, Tear, Curl by machine). The grading system then goes on to classify teas according is Indian black tea. Broadly, tea is classified as Orthodox (traditional methods used) or CTC Of the six different classes of tea, the only one to have a fairly universal grading system oxidation level and of roasting. or province, estate and garden), and perhaps also the tea bush cultivar, the firing style, label might state the type of tea, year and season harvest, origin (country, district Varying amounts of information will be offered on a tea label, from detailed to minimal. A pieces that are uniform. the pieces of leaf used for one brew are the same size, so each packet must contain leaves or complete diffusion of the tea into water and a nice strong brew. It is important that all and “dust”, which are useful in teabag teas because the greater surface area allows for a fast, are called “brokens” (commonly sold as medium-grade loose teas), followed by “fannings” mesh screens. Whole leaves are separated out for the best-quality teas. The next sized particles After the final firing, tea-makers sort their teas by sifting them through a series of graduated Sorting and Grading Tea

“flowery” refers to the flowers of the tea plant. A number 1 is often added after grading letters to denote top-quality tea. “Golden” refers to golden hues in the leaves, testifying their quality; “tippy” signifies an abundance of young tea buds;

and the highest grade)

OP BPS BOP BOP 1 FBOP GBOP GFBOP OP FP FOP GFOP TGFOP FTGFOP SFTGFOP

orange pekoe broken pekoe souchong

broken orange pekoe flowery broken orange pekoe

golden broken orange pekoe broken orange pekoe one

golden flowery broken orange pekoe

flowery orange pekoe (extra-large whole leaf) fine tippy golden flowery orange pekoe (medium whole leaf) golden flowery orange pekoe (large whole young leaves whose tips are golden) flowery pekoe orange pekoe tippy golden flowery orange pekoe (medium whole leaf) special fine tippy golden flowery orange pekoe (smallest whole leaf

each of the six types has its own distinct characteristics. the climate, altitude and tea-maker’s interpretation of the production methods, but medicinal, but there are only six types of “genuine” tea that come from the original tea bush, The countless different types of tea available today include flavoured and scented, fruity North America and Russia, even Europe has a handful, including one in the UK. throughout Africa, Asia and South America, a clutch of really small producers in Australia, and Argentina 40% of North America’s. There is a spread of small-to-medium producers Iran, Bangladesh, Thailand and Malawi), Kenya now provides 40% of Great Britain’s tea, year, but in the band of medium-to-big producers (which includes Japan, Indonesia, Turkey, Today India and are still the giant tea producers, providing 1 million tonnes or more a Types of Tea brisk smooth spicy short-finished smoky Oolong Tea sweet smooth coloury . The flavours and quality depend on the region in which the tea is grown, full aromatic bold soft

aromatic Black Tea White Tea nutty sweet earthy stone fruit soft malty

clean coppery biscuity sweet mineral full fresh earthy aromatic brisk Puerh Tea spicy Green Tea fresh kelpy bright astringent Yellow Tea herbaceous herbaceous crisp smooth woodsy musty soft

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TEA JOURNAL: Introduction clean and sweet taste. than the others, making it mellow and thick with a particular tea bush and is processed slightly more Tribute Eyebrow taste reminiscent of light oolongs. Peony harvest and has a sweet but slightly stronger leaves left over after the Silver Needle and White Long Life Eyebrow and mellow tea, fresh with soft fruit notes. consists of buds and the two top leaves. A smooth White Peony gentle flavour with sweet notes. finest top buds are used, producing a light, creamy, grade of white tea – a prized delicacy as only the Silver Needle The four main varieties are: known. its antioxidant and detoxifying benefits are well are preserved than in black or green teas, and tea undergoes minimal processing, more nutrients from light green to iridescent silver. Because the “withered” or “air-dried”, during which they turn days before they unfurl into leaves. They are then springtime. The buds or “tips” are plucked 7-10 which holds particularly delicious flavours in the The qualities of white tea come from the bud, earlier stage than other teas. are picked, with carefully selected leaves, at an hairs on the unopened buds of tea plant, which White tea gets its name from the fine silvery white each year in early spring, which increases its rarity. secret, and it can only be picked for a few weeks where the exact method of processing is kept is grown mainly in the province of China, the world come to know it. Authentic white tea thousand years, but only recently has the rest of The Chinese have enjoyed white tea for over a White Tea (), the next highest quality, (Bai Hao Yin Zhen) is the highest (Gong Mei) is made from a (Shou Mei) is made from the finish is grown in Yunnan province. Eyebrows”, this fresh, astringent tea with a sweet Chun Mei processing methods. fuller flavour reminiscent of black teas, due to the Its leaves are extraordinarily long, and it has a an extremely high altitude in Yunnan province. Snowy Mountain Jian undertones. when steeped. Refreshing and sweet with fruity Snail” historically refers to the shape of leaf amongst fruit trees, it picks up their scents. “Green Green Snail Spring fresh green taste. province, this is mainland China’s favourite, with a Dragonwell aftertaste. soft, fresh tea with a hint of sweetness and dry leaf shape during brewing. An easy-drinking looks like pellets, which open up into the original it is grown in Zhejian province. After processing, it Gunpowder the main types are: the region from which they are harvested. Some of classified not only by their specific name, but choose from, and for this reason they are often There are a great number of green tea varieties to leaves. tea with blasts of hot air; the Japanese steam have subtle sweet notes. The Chinese “fix” the have no sugariness, wheareas Chinese green teas Japanese green teas are more mouth-filling. They teas tend to be lighter and less intense, whereas the colour and enhances flavour. Chinese green just been air-dried but cooked – this preserves teas are made using mature leaves that have not Whereas white tea is made chiefly from buds, green and the time of year at which it is plucked. related to the number of plucks (harvests) per year months in temperate zones. The quality of leaf is and India), but only at specific times in the warm all over the world (though chiefly China, Japan It is produced year-round in subtropical locations fresh leaf, thus preserving the natural green colour. in its production is preventing oxidation of the purest, most unadulterated tea – the crucial factor Green tea is not as rare as white tea, but it is the Green Tea (China). Translated as “Precious (“Long Jing” - China). Grown in Zhejian (China). One of the most popular types, (“Pi Lo Chun” – China). Grown (China). A tea grown at Hou Kui flavours. It is much sweeter than other green teas. enhances the leaves’ health benefits, aromas and process. It is allowed to mature in a way that due partly to its complex growing and harvesting astringent flavour. often called “guest tea”. It has a sweet and clean, higher quality leaf than other Japanese teas, it is tea harvested in Japan is . Made from a Sencha flavour. particularly fine, producing a delicate and light Tip”, and grown in Henan province. Its leaves are Xin Yang Mao Jian which infuse an orchid flavour into the tea. is grown in province, around orchid plants, fragrant and sweet. high altitudes in India’s Blue Mountains, and is very Craigmore Estate green tea, flavourful but still light. Makaibari Tea Estates vegetal, less intense flavour than most. are picked with the leaves, producing a subtly harvested late in the season. Both stems and stalks flavour. ceremony; it has an intense sweetness and deep leaves, this is the tea used in Japanese (Japan). Three-quarters of all the green (Japan). One of the few teas that is

(China). Also known as “Monkey Tea”, it (Japan) (Japan). Japan’s highest-quality green tea, . Made from finely milled Tencha (India). This is grown at extremely (China). Known as “Green (India). An award-winning notes. smooth or pungent, usually with sweet and floral India and diverse in character: mellow or robust, in special conditions the Darjeeling region of Darjeeling oolongs. and nutty undertones. sophisticated, delicate peachy flavour with woodsy picked in the spring and is well known to have a Formosa Oolong gentle taste. , it is lightly fermented and has a light Tung Ting leaves and a sturdy yet soft floral flavour. it is known as “Iron Goddess” and has stout, crinkly Ti Kuan Yin and more available types are: youngest leaves. Some of the other more popular to climb high up into the tea tree to pick the Picked” oolongs. Legendarily, monkeys were trained The highest-grade oolongs of all are “Monkey most other oolongs. period and a lighter more floral liquor than (“Bao Zhong”). They have a shorter fermentation semi-balled teas, of which an example is Pouchong the high mountains of Taiwan. The third type is the “Iron Goddess of Mercy”, which is also grown in or leaves). A famous example of the balled type is twisted leaves) and balled (tightly rolled shoots It comes in two main types – striped (long, narrow, this class of tea. able to navigate your way knowledgeably around roasting. It is considered highly sophisticated to be from 20% to 80%), and the degree (if any) of leaf style and colour, oxidation level (which varies with a unique set of characteristics depending on a group, these teas are exceptionally diverse, each intricate and complex tea to manufacture, and as and experts say oolong is the most widely prized for its digestive benefits. Chinese a cross between green and black tea, is come from China or Taiwan. It is semi-fermented, Oolong means “Black Dragon”, and the best oolongs Oolong Tea . Considered one of the best teas from . Tightly pelleted and grown in China, . Also from Taiwan, this tea is A variety of oolong teas grown © 2012 Moleskine srl - All right reserved.

TEA JOURNAL: Introduction hint of nuttiness. (AD 618-907). It has a delicate floral aroma with a yellow tea, has been grown since the Tang Dynasty Meng Ding Huang Ya nutty with a gentle sweet finish. amazingly delicate flavour – smooth and slightly province and is famed for its health benefits Huang Ya note. smooth, light and sweet with a fleeting smokey in province and has a unique flavour – Jun Shan Yin Zhen of yellow tea. Now there are three main types: A long time ago there were hundreds of varieties time-consuming that this tea is so rare. fragrance. It is because the process is complex and days, this creates a characteristic sweetness and being able to breathe. Over several hours or the leaf to reabsorb its own aromas whilst also source, it is covered with a cloth, which encourages After light steaming and removal from the heat firing. It is the smothering that defines yellow tea. pan-fired and then “smothered” before finish- and tender qualities, the leaves are basket- or . The spring buds are used for their juicy of the Chinese provinces of Anhui, Hunan and Yellow tea is unique to the high mountain regions teas. Be careful to get it from a reputable source. genuine, and some are mis-categorized as green are very hard to find – some on the market are not slight bite of the finest Chinese black teas. They aromas of oolongs and the mild sweetness green teas, but subtler, the bright and various buds of white teas, the gentle vegetal flavour not widely, in China. It combines the big sweet Yellow tea is an endangered species and is grown, Yellow Tea is grown at very high elevations in Anhui is grown on Junshan Island , possibly the most famous summer and autumn (aromatic and fresh). distinct muscatel tones) and Autumnal in the late Second Flush in early summer (full-bodied with (characteristically fragrant, lively and floral), famous for its three seasons: First Flush in spring Darjeeling done by hand, which makes them costly. of the cultivation and harvesting Yunnan teas is regarded for its unique malty, peppery taste. Much two thousand years. Historically it was highly is a particularly large-leafed tea which goes back Yunnan smokey flavour at two stages during processing. all over the world. Its leaves are infused with the of black teas from China, it now also comes from flavour. tea has a rich aroma and a light but complex Yellow Mountains and the Yangtze River. now known as “Qimen”, in a region between the “Keemun” is an older Western spelling of the town Keemun popular are: huge number of different types. Some of the most Black teas are widely grown. In leaf from there is a rolling, oxidation and drying. quality teas, by hand and involves withering, processing can be done by machine or, for high quality tea from lower quality leaves. “Orthodox” by machines. The process achieves a better that are commonly used in teabags and processed “fannings” (small pieces of tea leftovers) or “dusts” The “CTC” method (Crush, Tear, Cut) produces There are two main methods of production. oxidation, the mellower tea. the tea’s colour, body and flavours. The slower the are produced, and it is the level of these that define this process of oxidation, flavonoids (antioxidants) tea; instead the leaves are allowed to darken. During Black tea is not fixed after harvesting as with green produced by India, Sri Lanka and Kenya. and . The largest quantities of black tea are America, black tea is the most popular for both hot “strong” with milk and sometimes sugar. In North parts of Europe often drink it in teabag form, drinkers. Tea lovers in the United Kingdom and China, but the favourite among European tea Black tea is the least-consumed class of in Black Tea : Yunnan tea, from Yunnan province, China, : this is China’s best-known black tea. : tea from this region of India is : the oldest and most beloved a perfect union. combine the best components of several teas into the addition of milk and/or sugar. Master blenders complexity of flavour and may or not suit jasmine flowers. Blended teas are constructed for and is flavoured by the addition of with oil of bergamot (a small, acidic orange), a blend of Indian and Ceylon teas, is flavoured Tea). Some have other elements added: Earl Grey, countries (, instance Ceylon Morning Blend), or from several combining various teas from one country (for Blended teas sweet finish. forest-like scent with a hint of bitterness and leaves to tips. It can be described as having a rich, on the quality of leaf and proportion of size. There is a complex grading system based consisting of many whole tea leaves a certain Sri Lanka) – a basic, medium-grade black tea largely grown outside China (chiefly India and teas which, though originating in China, are now Orange Pekoe teas that make Sri Lanka’s reputation. grown (lighter and brisker). It is the high-grown medium-grown (fruitier, mellower teas) and high- : low-grown (can be unremarkable), three categories according to the elevation of unique topography and climate, comes in Ceylon muted, soothing flavour. withered for very little time, which results in a processed quickly in the humid air. The leaves are soil to produce thick, big leaves which have to be on the planet, tea bushes draw from the rich north-eastern India in one of the wettest places Assam tasting tea, dark and aromatic. range in India. It is generally a brisk and bright- refers to part of the western Ghats mountain Nilgiri : its name means “Blue Mountain” and : grown in subtropical conditions in : this tea from Sri Lanka benefits from the : blended teas are created by : the term applies to a genre of years. Puerhs benefit from aging for as many 40-60 but better after about five years. Good quality to mature further. It is drinkable after 3 months, stored in warm, moist cellars which allow the tea a brick, cake, bell or mushroom shape and then The tea comes as leaves or might be formed into for aging. diverse flavours. Both varieties are then stored prized depth and smoothness to the complex fermentation – the leaves “cook” and add a highly which the leaves are piled in a heap to facilitate goes through the additional step of “cooking”, in steaming and shaping, but the black variety the same steps of withering, rolling, drying, green”) and black (shou – “cooked”). Both follow It comes in two varieties – green (sheng – “raw, it is most likely this tea they are referring to. and if -drinkers talk about black tea, and authenticity. It comes from Yunnan province is closely regulated to ensure the highest quality recently been discovered in the West. Production is one of China’s great treasures and has only Puerh tea, also known as aged or vintage Puerh Tea