Understanding the French Fashion Tech Ecosystem
UNDERSTANDING THE FRENCH FASHION TECH ECOSYSTEM
2021 ABOUT
About This White About Foundry About IFA Paris Paper Powered IFA Paris is a fashion school that offers students around the This white paper was created by by IFA Paris world a vast range of unique and Foundry Powered by IFA Paris, tailored courses at undergraduate a fashion tech lab based inside Our goal is to pioneer fashion tech in Paris and beyond. Foundry Powered and postgraduate level. We give International Fashion Academy. students the choice to study in All our partners and members by IFA Paris is driving the shift to solve complex industry problems three of the most globally influential are working at the intersection of fashion hubs – Paris, Shanghai and fashion & technology with a goal shaping the future of fashion. We aim to do this by providing specialist now in Istanbul that sets us apart to create new opportunities for the from other fashion schools. fashion industry. Whether this be spaces, programs and access to within the themes of sustainability, a network of individuals in areas Our value lies in our exposure to the retail or industry 4.0, this white paper from fashion and tech through to world and the interaction that allows highlights the initiatives happening entrepreneurship. Dedicated to the 50 nationalities constituting its globally and locally. Subsequently bridging the gap between academia student and teacher body to share we are creating a dialogue for the and industry, we’re actively in the projects and daily life taking various stakeholders endeavouring working with start-ups, students place within our schools. to make a meaningful impact within and organisations to push the boundaries of fashion tech. fashion tech. www.ifaparis.com Foundry’s unique ecosystem Note to Reader ensures that it is able to empower About Beyond those that wish to embrace digital This white paper was written with full transformation. The fashion tech Form independence. The organisations lab is an initiative launched in Beyond Form is a venture studio and initiatives featured inside this partnership between IFA Paris, building impact-driven fashion white paper have been done so at a fashion school with campuses technologies. They're on a mission the full discretion of the authors. in Paris, Shanghai & Istanbul, and to modernize the fashion industry Foundry Powered by IFA Paris Beyond Form, a fashion tech through tech innovations across has not received any financial venture studio. the value chain, and in turn create compensation or required to fulfill a more sustainable and efficient any partnership obligations with this Contact Us fashion system publication. 18 - 24 Quai de la Marne, Paris, 75019, France. Beyond Form partnered with IFA Paris to launch the fashion tech www.foundryftlab.com innovation lab in 2019 and runs the [email protected] Startup Program. Every 6 months founders from all over the world are welcomed to Paris to work with the Beyond Form team on building out their early-stage fashion tech businesses. www.beyondform.io
Authors
Paloma Bouteleux, Vongai N. Ruzive, Creative Director, VRTUOZ Lab & Community Associate, Foundry Powered by IFA Paris
Contributors
Anne Faubry, Arnaud Pelletier, Peter Jeun Ho Tsang, Consultant, IBM Studios Paris Director, IBM Studios Paris Director, Beyond Form & Foundry Powered by IFA Paris
Page - 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS
01 . FOREWORD P.4
0.2 INTRODUCTION P.5-10 Fashion Tech At Foundry Powered By IFA Paris P.5 Definition: Fashion Technology P.6 Spotlight: Stylé P.7-8 Fashion Tech Revolution Viewed by IBM Studios Paris P.9-10
0.3 MACRO OVERVIEW // EUROPE P.12-16 The Makers P.12 A Deeper Look Into The European Activity P.13-14 COSME & DeFINE P.13-14 UK & London P.13-14 Accelerators & Start-up Programs P.13-14 Spotlight: BFC P.15-16
0.4 MICRO OVERVIEW // FRANCE // PARIS P.18-22 LA French Tech P.19 Defi Mode P.19 Private Entities // France // Paris P.19 Viva Technology P.21-22 Station F P.21-22
0.5 FASHION-TECH SPECIFIC PROGRAMS // FRANCE // PARIS P.23-24 LVMH // La Maison De Start-ups P.23-24 IMPULSE by VeePee P.23-24 Platform A // Adidas // Plug & Play P.23-24
0.6 CONCLUSION P.25
0.7 GLOSSARY OF TERMS P.26
0.8 BIBLIOGRAPHY P.27-30
0.9 REFERENCES P.31
FOREWORD
It has only been in recent years the relatively small fashion tech where the capabilities of technology ecosystem and why cultivating has been taken seriously by fashion such systems are important for brands, who are still somewhat ensuring that talent is supported nervous in fully embracing in their growth phases. This is innovations within their businesses. currently taking form in a variety of 2020 provided an even bigger ways including, fashion tech specific wakeup call to the industry with accelerator programs, competitions, supply chains severely disrupted, conferences, venture capital and physical stores closed, and teams educational courses. However, working 100% remotely due to there’s more yet still to be done for COVID-19. This sudden change industry-wide acknowledgement. Peter Jeun Ho Tsang has not fared well for many fashion Recent figures show that 85% of Director, Beyond Form & retailers, which has seen them corporates1 say that innovation Foundry Powered by IFA Paris going into bankruptcy. However, is an important element of their what the pandemic has done is growth strategies, yet only about shed a spotlight on fashion tech The tension 10% if innovation projects are and the urgency for the industry actually completed. For brands, it to embrace technology at greater between fashion can be a daunting task navigating speeds and with agility. and technology the world of fashion tech in order The founders of fashion tech start- to successfully execute innovation has been bubbling ups have suddenly become the pilots, especially when there is away for the past white knights for many parts of the currently no go-to reference point. fashion industry. Take for example, Therefore having an understanding decade, with both the huge explosion of 3D digital of what is happening within the fashion within the past 12 months, ecosystem is important for fashion industries trying to which was relatively ignored for the brands as they turn to fashion decode the other’s last 20 years but is now proving tech solutions, entrepreneurs and to be a viable method for creating, initiatives to help them to modernise language. producing and showcasing fashion. their organisations. It’s no longer as The pandemic is also highlighting scary as it once was. what is and isn’t working within
1. Coplex, 25 Corporate Innovation Facts, https://www.coplex.com/25-corporate-innovation-facts 2020 Page - 4 FASHION TECH AT FOUNDRY POWERED BY IFA PARIS
Since the fashion tech lab launched This is a clear indication that at the end of 2019, we have seen the incredible talent is out there ready push on technological innovations to work with the fashion brands to through fablabs, makerspaces and make a better industry. 18 hackerspaces as well as push for We have also seen a keen interest textile innovations in major cities STARTUPS TO DATE from larger organisations which in around the world, however, fashion 2021 sees the launch of lab projects tech-focused spaces are still yet with partners such as Li & Fung, to be fully explored in France. The Global Brands Group and Le New French fashion capital has been a Black who are partnered with laggard in launching fashion tech smaller Foundry partners such as initiatives compared to the other Capassity and TG3D Studio. The fashion capitals which have been larger brands are not only interested 70% FEMALE launching programs as early as the in the startups, but also the future late 2000’s. The reason for this is generations of fashion professionals mainly that most of the operating that will be graduating from our MBA fashion brands in Paris are still Fashion Technology program that traditional in many ways. commences in 2021 (which is also Nonetheless, this has slowly seeing talent from all over the world started to change and we have fly into Paris). This demonstrates seen an increase in the number that there are opportunities being 20% SECOND of fashion executives interested created at all levels of the fashion TIME FOUNDERS in the possibilities of integrating tech ecosystem, with a wide variety technologies into their businesses. of perspectives and influences In addition we have seen many coming into play. entrepreneurial talents wanting to However, much of the fashion tech come to Paris to lead that change ecosystem is still fragmented and with the launch of our Startup confusing for anyone wanting to Program in April 2020. approach the subject. This white 75% FOCUSED ON To date we have accompanied 18 paper sets out to illustrate exactly SUSTAINABILITY early-stage fashion tech start-ups what is currently happening, where hailing from all corners of the globe and why. Our goal is to string the including USA, Canada, Vietnam, dots together for the readers of this Turkey, Lebanon, South Africa and guide in order to be better informed all over Europe. Of the founders when commencing any fashion tech that we are working with, 70% initiative. are female, 20% are second-time 80% FROM OUTSIDE founders, 80% are from outside of FASHION INDUSTRY the fashion industry and two thirds are focusing on sustainability. DEFINITION: FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Without a clear framework, fashion The industry is facing a “cultural tech is often overlooked within revolution” as described by Ian the fashion industry - especially in Rogers, former Chief Digital Officer France where fashion is renowned at French luxury conglomerate, for its traditions and heritage. The LVMH2. Rogers’ perspective is the definition and understanding of starting point of this fashion tech fashion tech is left ambiguous. From focused white paper. By analysing the garments we wear to the way the different initiatives that can be we interact with brands or products, found around the globe, and more technology is becoming more closely in France, the impact of this infused with these experiences and cultural revolution on the fashion is on the verge of becoming one of industry can be revealed with key the leading sectors in the industry, players being hackers, start-ups, due to the need for adaptation after learners and businesses. This is the impacts from the COVID-19 beyond the digital fashion shows pandemic. that recently became popular as pointed out by The Fashion For the purposes of this white paper, Award 2020 by the British Fashion it can be defined as the application Council.3 of cutting edge and innovative technologies as solutions to the fashion industry. In other words, the modernisation of the industry to improve conventional ways of design and production, to customer experiences and everything in between.
2. Arthur R., Lvmh’s Ian Rogers On Viewing ‘digital’ As Oxygen, Focusing On ‘internet’ As Culture, https://thecurrentdaily.com/2016/12/05/lvmhs-ian- rogers-viewing-digital-oxygen-focusing-internet-culture/ , 2020 | 3. The Fashion Awards 2020, Celebrating the individuals and organisations who led change, https://fashionawards.com/About/Watch-The-Fashion-Awards-2020, 2020 Page - 6 SPOTLIGHT: STYLÉ
strongly believes that the digitisation Using their experience from the of fashion is an opportunity to create gaming industry, Stylé wanted to the best tool for self-expression. empower the final user by allowing them to play and interact with "In the digital age, physical garments that have been recreated virtually. They do this by we have all heard letting users try out different outfits on animated avatars, or directly on about augmented themselves in Augmented Reality reality filters, by uploading a video or a photo. Using artificial intelligence and avatars and video deep learning to recreate drape games in 3D - and and movement of cloth, the team In Autumn 2020, Stylé started has been able to successfully working with French luxury fashion there’s more to create a real-time 3D digital fashion label Chloé to showcase their experience. Stylé’s end goal is to Chloé x Fusalp ski collection. Stylé come - but the recreate the pleasure of fashion digitised the collection and made reality of it and its virtually: discovering, matching it interactive so that shoppers and designing items or entire could see their favourite look on applications can outfits, which the end user’s skills a customised avatar reacting to can then be showcased on social their movements. Creating this be very technical. media. As well as allowing the user experience was a way for every Brands need to the pleasure of shopping. Stylé is customer to communicate her own committed to make virtual clothes a take on the collection, making it rely on strong reality for the fashion industry on the more accessible, immediately. expertise to go longer term. Although the digitisation of fashion Stylé is a startup incubated started 10 years ago, transitioning through this inside Foundry Powered by IFA Paris. to 3D is still very complex for most transformation" brands. Until now, digital fashion has mainly been about producing -Alexis Arragon & Guillaume static images or short animations, Gouraud, Founders, Stylé without creating new opportunities for the final user. The team at Stylé Image: (c) Chloé and Fusalp Creations. Digital experience by Stylé 2020 Page - 8 FASHION TECH REVOLUTION VIEWED BY IBM STUDIOS PARIS
to scaling up - but there are more cosmetics and perfumes offered and more actors helping to take by the fashion brands, thus hold and the network is evolving making it possible to guarantee positively. their quality, protect them from the vagaries of the weather and The quality of craftsmanship, ensure their storage conditions. know-how of the “little hands” and refined blending have always been • Via digitised logistics platforms, key components of the luxury open to a multitude of operators, world. They are now combined with which make it possible to optimise technological tools that will facilitate, in-store supply or delivery to simplify and sometimes even customers, the latter having magnify the manufacturing process: become a standard, particularly due by Arnaud Pelletier, we are thus witnessing a real to the recent surge in online sales. Director, IBM Studios Paris transformation of the production • Via artificial intelligence which, For a very long time, the luxury world cycle thanks to the IoT (Internet of for example, permits the remained centred on a triptych Things) and digital tools that enrich anticipation of trends through that seemed to be unchanging: the products, as well as alerting to a real-time analysis of social exceptional product quality, brand flaws in the processes, anticipating networks throughout the world value and the location of the machine breakdowns, preventing and thus makes it possible to boutiques. Of all the sectors, it is stock shortages or even evaluating tailor production in near-real probably the one that has resisted the quality of each product, with time, confronted with peaks in the wave of “new technologies” a precision far superior to that of demand or, on the contrary, a loss the longest. But today, however, the human eye! Over the last few of interest in certain products, or innovation and digital technology months, we have carried out a large even certain colours. are now so deeply rooted in number of projects in France in each • Via micro-components and consumer behaviour, including of these areas, with exceptional ultra-precise cameras that enable those in the fashion world, that results in terms of product quality, the detection of counterfeits that the entire sector is embarking on improved performance in the flood the market and cause some technological innovation! workshop or factory, and even products to be “returned” to the employee satisfaction! shop without the vendors being It’s a good thing because France is a able to identify them. country of innovation. Our engineers Recently, innovation and technology have a long-standing reputation have been present in all areas of the • By incorporating technologies into that goes beyond borders, and fashion world, providing answers the products themselves, as seen the start-ups that flourish in our to extremely varied problems and with LCD screens embedded country give immense prospects needs: in handbags, colour-changing to all the inventions, ideas and dresses or ever more powerful • Via the blockchain which enables concepts that sprout in the minds connected watches. traceability and certification of the of the researchers, creators and origin of raw materials, in order to On the other hand, it is also other innovators the country is meet the growing expectations of in customer interactions that full of. Innovation ecosystems are consumers who desire socio- and innovation and technology are multiplying and becoming more and eco-responsible products. changing the game: the in-store more connected, enabling these experience is metamorphosing • Via sensors and drones that now start-ups to offer their products to and concepts are evolving monitor the natural resources large groups - at times at the cost of (particularly due to the growth of some disillusionment when it comes used to produce the clothes, online shopping, especially in China). cameras, coupled with artificial industry: This is causing some shops to become intelligence, can be used to • Online Shopping / E-commerce: showrooms vying for originality to operate a multitude of services, it’s all about recreating a personal attract customers, who will try out such as identifying empty shelves, experience with the client in an products that they will then buy on spotting customers waiting for interactive and remote way. dedicated platforms. advice or unusual behaviour, and thus, preventing markdowns or • Co-creation with digital tools: vandalism. brands had to continue creating • Salespeople and advisors products. Despite having shown a "Those who will be benefit from technologies that few limits sometimes in their ability the first to be able to will improve their training, provide to drive collective intelligence and them with advanced information co-creation remotely, they helped offer their customers on products, and even on the the fashion industry survive. customers who contact them if • Personalising and augmenting the and employees the they have been identified, so that experience: technology allowed they can provide increasingly benefits of these some brands to engage with personalised recommendations. tools will be the their clients remotely by digitising • The expectation of the immersive experience of the ones who will gain a personalisation in terms of physical place (the boutique for advice and recommendations is instance) via virtual fittings. major competitive immense, and can be enriched by the analysis of information • Revision of the business logics: advantage." collected on the customer - from The effort to optimise the supply previous purchases or activity on chain as well as to monitor the social networks, all of course, in flows and rethink the stock accordance with the regulations strategy have been stronger than The shop, a place of human interaction, and the wishes of these same ever. is now a hub of technology: customers. Personalisation To summarise, the fashion and • Window displays are reinventing also means being able to create luxury market continues to change themselves to capture the attention unique products, in-store, using and is taking the turn of digital and and interact with the passer-by engraving, weaving or 3D printing technology, probably later than or visitor. They even go as far as tools that will add a personal touch other sectors. analysing the position of his or her to each product to match the gaze and face to adapt accordingly. trend to stand out by displaying a Those who will be the first to be • The virtual fitting enables you to try on product “that no one else has”. able to offer their customers and employees the benefits of these clothes adapted to your morphology, The COVID-19 pandemic definitely tools will be the ones who will gain while remaining clothed, or to test shifted the way the fashion a major competitive advantage in a different colours of the same model industry looked at technology. market whose values are evolving without having to change your clothes. Technology became more than more and more rapidly. • Products can also be “augmented” ever a strong accelerator for via RFID chips or tags, permitting the fashion companies to preserve customer to benefit from a bulk of and grow their businesses during additional information, with a single these difficult times. Indeed, gesture on his mobile phone. it offers great opportunities in • Cameras, known as surveillance different areas of the fashion
Page - 10 MACRO OVERVIEW // EUROPE THE MAKERS
The makers, who in this case maker’s philosophy. The impulse are the individuals behind the of these spaces can emerge from creation of fashion technologies, the initiative of a few individuals, are established in various parts districts, villages, cities, universities of the ecosystem. From web etc. where exchange of skills are developers to 3D modelling highly valued for the purpose experts, these creators can be of the projects. These spaces found in coworking spaces such attract volunteers from various as makerspaces where their ideas backgrounds working together to can be fabricated with the help of birth new solutions, prototypes, available facilities. Such spaces iterations and interactions between have become popular around labs. the world including France where Fashion tech is no stranger to this Foundry Powered by IFA Paris, 565 makerspaces are identified in profound evolution in makerspaces Tech Demo Space 2020.4 These collaborative work with some of them having evolved environments were designed for to become powerful structures, “...making, learning, exploring and such as Fab Lab Barcelona, sharing [with the help of] high tech”5 where several departments were and are categorised into either organically built like Fabricademy fab abs - following the guidelines specifically related to fabric of the Massachusetts Institute of and textile innovation.6 These Technology (MIT) - hacker spaces communities of makers constitute or makerspaces. They all share a solid alternative to traditional a common mission to gather channels of information and communities of makers and convert knowledge and are now expanding ideas into reality. further than fab labs, hackerspaces When specifically looking & makerspaces and into programs, into fablabs, they constitute a incubators, funding opportunities proactive network of spaces, and more. The following section where knowledge, hardware and will focus on initiatives that are software skills are shared. Both revolutionising the different ways soft and hard skills are exercised that fashion and technology in these environments and shared synergise while expanding the for any project initiated by any ecosystem in general in Europe. individual willing to observe the
4. Makery Media For Labs, http://www.makery.info/en/map-labs/ , 2020 | 5. What is a Makerspace? Is it a Hackerspace or a Makerspace?, https://www. makerspaces.com/what-is-a-makerspace/, 2020 | 6. Fabricademy Barcelona – Fab Lab Barcelona, https://fablabbcn.org/education/academies/ 2.fabricademy-barcelona, IMAGE ANNOTATION? 2020 Page - 12 A DEEPER LOOK INTO THE EUROPEAN ACTIVITY
"Europe is one of the COSME + DeFINE products or those who intend to work with other businesses for leading continents for this The EU program COSME has been cultural revolution in the similar purposes. An example is created for the Competitiveness of DeFINE, a program co-funded by fashion industry. While Enterprises and Small to Medium COSME intended to bring fashion there is an increase in fab Enterprises (SMEs), running from tech innovators together through labs and makerspaces, 2014 to 2020, with a budget of €2.3 incubators and accelerators. there are also growing billion.7 COSME will support SMEs in the following areas: DeFINE is a network platform numbers of fashion tech created for the duration of 2018 related programs which • Facilitating access to finance to 2021. The aim of DeFINE is to extend the ecosystem to • Supporting internationalisation take the pulse of fashion tech into and access to markets Europe, create a collaborative learners of the discipline • Creating an environment network of incubators and in Europe. Each program favourable to competitiveness is unique to the other • Encouraging an entrepreneurial accelerators, start- ups and SMEs, culture and financiers10 This program was whether it is through an created to support the need for incubator, accelerator or COSME is a program implementing a framework for the network to school/institution. In this the Small Business Act (SBA) which consider when pushing their fashion section, these programs reflects the commission’s political tech ideas forward. - that are widely available will to recognise the central role of SMEs in the EU economy. Programs such as these digitally throughout acknowledge the importance Europe - will be discussed SMEs are a driving economic of networking by encouraging in further detail. " force in Europe and make up conversations between emerging 85% of the current job roles in fashion tech SMEs with other Europe therefore, there is a need stakeholders. This naturally to federate them.8 Conscious that expands the fashion tech SMEs were created much before ecosystem further to those who the internet revolution, the EU support the innovations as well as (and more specifically COSME) the makers. created tailor-made programs dealing with each field that is facing UK // London a need for transformation with the The evolution that has been seen help of the above listed expertise. across Europe can also be found This includes digital technologies9 specifically in the UK alone. The that could be implemented into fashion design industry is one of fashion SMEs who are looking to the largest creative industries in the transform operations concerning country, generating £59.3 billion to the the production/selling of their
7. COSME. Europe’s programme for small and medium-sized enterprises. - Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs - European Commission, https:// ec.europa.eu/growth/smes/cosme_en, 2020 | 8. Europa Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/content/small-companies- create-85-new-jobs-0_en, 2012 | 9. Ibid, 2020 | 10. DeFINE Fashion-Tech Network Europe, About DeFINE, https://www.define-network.eu/, 2020 economy in 201911 This reveals the importance of building the ecosystem Accelerators & and incorporating technology for its Start Up Programs future sustenance. Throughout the rest of Europe Institutions and programs such as and worldwide there are now those described in the previous approximately 15 specialist programs section are created to tackle the to support fashion tech start-ups. For challenge of digitally transforming example, Milan has two alone with the fashion industry overall. With a Startup Bootcamp Milan and Fashion closer look into the UK approach, the Tech Accelerator, which both serve division of the fashion tech ecosystem as catalysts for start-ups that show into specific areas is evident through promising early traction. Fashion For the increase of fashion schools in Good based in Amsterdam and The addition to the incubator & accelerator Mills Fabrica in Hong Kong are two programs. The opportunity created initiatives focusing on sustainability. by the emergence of the fashion This laser focus on a specific subject tech industry was enough for the coupled with their blended approach government to allocate important that includes a VC fund and a gateway funds towards it. to corporates creates a dynamic London is a good example of a city platform. that is proactive when it comes to However, it is also necessary to deploying fashion tech initiatives. The note that many of these programs London College of Fashion was early require applicants to have a validated an institution to realise the discipline business model, prototype and with postgraduate courses and revenues generated in order to be accelerator style programs offered to accepted. Additionally, many focus on their students and external individuals the end of the fashion value chain, e.g. in the late 2000’s. These have retail experiences and e-commerce, subsequently been broken off into such as New York Fashion Tech Lab. different branches inside the university Therefore, there is still opportunity including the FashTech program for other initiatives to fill the gaps at Centre for Fashion Enterprise, within the startup lifecycle or other Fashion Innovation Agency and underserved areas of the value Digital Anthropology Lab. Farfetch’s chain such as design and product accelerator, Dream Assembly, is development. another example of a London based organisation that is pushing the growth of fashion tech talent.
11. Statista Apparel market in the UK, https://www.statista.com/topics/3348/apparel-market-in-the-uk/ , 2020 | 12. London Fashion Week | Data Visualisation, https:// holition.com/work/bfc, 2018 Page - 14 SPOTLIGHT: BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL & HOLITION
extend according to the popularity London Fashion of its category. An example of Week & Data this project can be seen when considering sustainability as one of Visualisation the highly discussed topics of today This project is a clear example of how which would make its branch on the intricate and already-advanced the digital tree as one of the longest.13 fashion innovative scene is so far. The British Fashion Council (BFC) Not only did the Holition Internship has implemented multidisciplinary Program become a perfect collaborations between the multiple marketing tool for the BFC, thanks to companies including award-winning the ability of the data visualisation to creative innovation studio, Holition update in real time and showcasing who host an Internship Program on all social media & press platforms annually dedicated to foster talents during London Fashion Week 2018, from diverse backgrounds. The but it also allows the ecosystem to fundamentals of this program is to extend to interns in this field. Here interpret data from the industry into they are introduced to the idea of the visually-pleasing illustrations. synergy between fashion, visuals, technology and data - which is A collective of a data scientist, usually more explored in this way jewellery designer, mathematician, with leading fashion companies at economist and computer scientists a later stage in the ecosystem with are the masterminds behind this start-ups and SMEs. initiative under the supervision of the Creative Technologist at Holition. This data visualisation project was initially created by a team of students using data to validate BFC’s core values12 and has progressed to analysing fashion-related social media and press statistics at London Fashion Week by converting the data into digital trees with branches that
13. Holition Blossoming Fashion Conversation, https://vimeo.com/294104627, 2018 Image: Data Visualisation by Holition Internship Summer Program, 2018 Page - 16 MICRO OVERVIEW // FRANCE // PARIS The French region still has a long way to go when approaching more specialised fashion tech programs and initiatives however, there are currently multiple activities around technology with the help of fab labs, hacker and makerspaces mentioned in the macro section. While initiatives such as Fashion Tech Days by Nord Corea14 exists, the gap remains unfilled when concerning large-scale public or private programs dealing with fashion tech directly in France and this is part of the reason the Foundry fashion tech lab exists here.
"There is room for such innovation in the luxury market"
Sara Dsouki, Founder, Speetra
One of the start-ups from the Foundry pioneers coming to France who are the French Tech Grant which, Startup Program, Speetra Design are contributing to the fashion tech upon approval of their candidature, Studio, travelled from Lebanon in ecosystem with their technological provides the opportunity for start- the hope to be in an environment expertise. Many start-ups with a ups to obtain up to €30,000 grant that embraces the advancement of similar ambition to optimise the and the other is a specific investment fashion. While acknowledging that fashion industry in France are fund for the Fashion, Luxury and Paris is renowned for its traditional able to tap into the initiatives that Beauty categories. While there are practices in fashion, Sara Dsouki support them including the Public requirements attached to these Founder of Speetra, hopes to provide Investment Bank (BPI) created opportunities - such as needing to “a new creative tool that surpasses by the French government. This make €500K a year - the ability for the boundaries of design and physical consists of a strong network of the startup to scale is made available work”15 through their 3D printing banking partners, investors, regions along with other opportunities and digital design platform. Sara and institutions, allowing BPI France explored in this section. believes that there is room for such to support innovative projects at innovation in the luxury market. This their early stages. The key support is one example of many international systems created from this network
14. Fashion Tech Days Nordcréa, https://fashiontechdays.fr/, 2020 | 15. Interview with Sara Dsouki, Paris, France 2020 Image: Speetra X Tony Ward 3D printed dress Paris Fashion Week 2019-20 Page - 18 MICRO OVERVIEW // FRANCE // PARIS
The hubs are created based lack of diversity and inclusiveness. LA French Tech on two goals - the first one is to The aim will be here to make them The French Tech mission is a promote French companies and more transparent and accessible to governmental strategy making the innovation within their regions. locals from different backgrounds link between the public sector and The second purpose is to attract which becomes vital when merging the start-up ecosystem. It supports foreign investors, companies and these for further innovation. Kat initiatives from bioscience to online community builders on a wide scale Borlongan, who leads the French marketplaces. It is based at the globally.17 Tech Mission, envisions La French Ministry of Economy and finance There are four major axes within Tech in 5 years as the reference tech in Paris and the approach is more the French Tech strategy. The first ecosystem of Europe and that the of an open platform connecting axis is about talents, nurture the ecosystem will have produced more entities from around the globe. existing talents coming from France unicorns without sacrificing the Communities benefit from the - such as deep-tech, engineers, values of the country.18 French Tech label giving them developers - then attract and select visibility and access to regional local talents within the regions of the Defi Mode and international funds depending hubs. Both rely on how well-branded Since 1984, DEFI Mode (meaning on their points of focus. They are the image of the French ecosystem ‘challenge fashion’ in French), has also able to access specific public is and to continue expanding the been supporting small businesses services and in business terms, this talent recruitment. with a unique form of solidarity can be described as outsourced with big players within the fashion market research. The second axis is growth. The strategy is set up to help the start- industry. The annual budget is This initiative is activated through a ups internationalise at an early €9.5 million and streams from the visa scheme for start-ups, funding, stage. For this part, investment is taxes paid on clothing by 3500 campaigns, special programs mandatory, largely linked to BPI companies.19 and support for 50+ French tech France (public investment entity in DEFI has four specific missions. communities worldwide with France previously mentioned). These are to accompany young innovations that are French-related. fashion designers; work towards This network is aimed at facilitating The third axis is related to the international recognition of the the expansion of French SMEs and role of the government. Three French fashion ecosystem; to start-ups that are tech-focused. ministries work together to reach transmit the French expertise of When considering those who are the morphosis. The Ministry of the the fashion industry to ensure it fashion tech-related, Fashion Data is Economy is leading for the business is valued; and lastly, to support one of few under this initiative. It is a part, that of Foreign Affairs is on innovations. These goals are startup based in France that works the international, and the Ministry achieved by monitoring trends with fashion brands to address of Research and Education are in innovation, and promoting issues related to sales forecasting all involved in this expansion. It is the integration of innovation into and inventory management in a a matter of creating an efficient the product & supply chains. quick and optimised manner using synergy between these three Partnerships are at the forefront their product, Jarvis.16 La French entities. of pushing this initiative, examples Tech hubs across other countries Lastly, the fourth axis is related to being the work done with fashion are still yet to support fashion- the community. Self-created, these tech start-ups at Station F - which specific SMEs and start-ups. French Tech communities face a is the world’s largest startup
16. Fashion Data, https://content.fashiondata.io/jarvis-by-fashion-data , 2020 | 17. La French Tech, https://lafrenchtech.com/fr/ , 2020 | 18. RFI, France looks to its unicorns to leap ahead in digital startup race, https://www.rfi.fr/en/france/20190916-french-president-macron-looks-unicorns-fly-ahead-digital-tech-race , 2019 | 19. Defi Mode, https://www.defimode.org/le-defi/missions/description/, 2018 campus located in Paris20 - and the than its home location, France, is key Fashion Tech Days in the North of in building its user base across other France that offers hackathons and regions, similarly to La French Tech. programs.
To further this invigorating of the French fashion scene and "We believe there reinforcing its influence, DEFI and is a link between the French Ministry of Culture created ANDAM (National business and Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) in 1989. The aim is fashion tech." to be the bridge between institutions and private actors of the fashion Sebastien Vincente, ecosystem to induce strategies and Head of Fashion Department, transversal actions. One of these Business France is its competition, which now also includes the ANDAM Innovation Prize worth €30,000. The members Business France is another key of the committee are connected player within DEFI’s partner network to the initiatives mentioned in this as their collaboration has provided paper until now and its official opportunities for French start-ups recognition from the French fashion to participate in the world’s largest sphere as well as access to the best annual festival of innovation, South network. by South West (SxSW) in Austin, Texas.21 Data & Data is one of the Private Entities // startups who showed interest in this opportunity while looking to France // Paris expand their artificial intelligence As seen in the UK section, the platform which safeguards brands UK is known to be liberal as its from counterfeit products. The fashion tech initiatives are strongly ‘copycat culture’ and grey market supported by its government is a global issue in the fashion whereas in France, the ecosystem industry where brands often notice tends to be driven by private counterfeits of their products sold initiatives in the fashion and luxury at cheaper prices, thus creating sectors. France has some of the unprecedented competition. Data most competitive and influential & Data’s AI technology challenges groups and companies in this this unfortunate, yet frequent, issue category - some of whom are in the industry. The opportunity to making big impacts on the fashion showcase such versatile fashion tech scene. technology to an audience other
20. STATION F, https://stationf.co/fr/ , 2020 | 21. DEFI, Un Monde En Quête De Sens : Le DEFI Publie Son Rapport Annuel Sur Les Enseignements Du Festival Sxsw Pour La Mode, https://www.defimode.org/2019/07/15/monde-quete-de-sens-sxsw-mode/, 2019 Page - 20 MICRO OVERVIEW // FRANCE // PARIS
allows brands to improve forecasting evident that the full experience goes Viva Technology demands and trends through artificial beyond the program itself. While In France, the French equivalent of intelligence which eradicates the guidance is provided by experts and Las Vegas’ CES is Viva Technology - conventional manual processes support is available from equipment an annual technology and innovation involved. such as 3D printers, laser cutters event consisting of start-ups as As a fashion power house, it is and other technologies, the overall exhibitors and expert guest speakers. interesting to see that LVMH atmosphere remains valuable. It This initiative was brought to life leverages the French tech scene is revealed here that the push for in 2016 by Publicis Group and the while giving it credibility due to its innovation is closely related to the newspaper Les Echos. The media well-established reputation of being reputation of its surroundings. By and advertising industries were in one of the largest conglomerates in attracting start-ups and entities, such need for the French tech activities to the industry. The significance of this as LVMH and Adidas, with the above be seen and interact with therefore, partnership with VIVA Technology is attributes looks promising to sustain Viva Technology’s response to this evident as it defines a clear vision of an active ecosystem. need is to connect start-ups and how digital transformation is deeply large corporations. In 2019, the event impacting the decisions and presence attracted some 2,450 journalists of stakeholders in the fashion industry. with approximately 75 nationalities,22 allowing start-ups to gain publicity in addition to access to funds Station F created by Publicis and partners. In 2013, Xavier Niel, French billionaire Large corporations also benefit businessman leading in the from this event as they access the telecommunications and technology most innovative solutions in France. industry, created a school named 42. From this, we can understand that This was a free tech and computer Viva Technology is planned to programming school without execute three phases: showcasing, teachers, books, or tuition for 1000 networking and funding. people annually. 42 was the first element of a much larger plan as 2017 It is important to note that the fashion saw Niel’s vision to build the biggest conglomerate, LVMH, is deeply startup campus in the world, Station involved in Viva Technology. Since F with more than 30 programs, 40 joining forces, LVMH contributes VC funds, 35 public administrations their innovation award and gathers a and 600 events a year. The place selection of start-ups and innovators was marketed as being the place to as candidates. Heuritech was the first be in Paris which appears to have winner for this award in 2017 and have succeeded as it holds this reputation since increased their fundraising to €4 today in the startup world. million and branched out to New York and Singapore.23 This company’s When speaking with residents of the predictive analysis technology 366,000 square metre space, it is
22. Viva Technology | Media Partners, https://vivatechnology.com/media/media-partners/, 2020 | 23. Heuritech, THE FIRST ANALYSIS PLATFORM FOR FASHION BRANDS, https://www.heuritech.com/fr/company/, 2020 Image: Dress by IFA Paris student on augmented reality by Capassity 3D Shot, 2020 Page - 22 FASHION TECH-SPECIFIC PROGRAMS // FRANCE // PARIS
Several programs deal fashion products. One of the goals brands28. Finally, before completion with fashion tech from are to provide “the possibility of of the program, start-ups present considering closer collaboration”26 a macro perspective. their innovations to a board of jury. between start-ups and brands under Here the system is purely outsourced Beauty, fashion and retail LVMH to “reinvent them so they R&D and pre-tested before possible groups saw here a good remain relevant to [their] current investments or acquisition are opportunity to outsource and future customers.”27 Hosting processed. this accelerator annually allows the some of their R&D. Each From the above, it is clear that there integration of fashion tech innovations group selected a different is a demand for specialist solutions with these brands consistently - format which will be tackling ecommerce, especially precisely every year - provoking when considering the ways in which explored closely in this fashion brands to consider their retail is changing. More innovation is section. pre-existing models at least once a required to keep shoppers interested year while inspiring smaller brands to in interacting with brands online LVMH // La Maison follow-suit. due to the new normal of working des Start-ups There is still room for further push and staying at home. One of the LVMH are not only supporting on the synergy between business, IMPULSE previous participants, other entities as they also host their fashion and technology which FITLE, have worked on a digital sizing own initiatives. Besides launching this program could prove useful & virtual fitting room technology their recent mobile store service for participants in preparation for which many innovators are now responding to the social distancing collaborations with corporates. considering more since the universal measures24, they also host the COVID-19 lockdowns. Many physical La Maison des start-ups LVMH Impulse by VeePee fitting rooms in stores across the globe are inaccessible even post accelerator driving fashion tech It is clear that Station F as a platform deconfinement therefore, making businesses between the selected facilitating outsourced innovation has it even more difficult for shoppers start-ups with the many brands they kept its scope of participants large. to make the most of their shopping own including Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Apart from groups directly related to experiences. Kenzo and more.25 Housed at Station fashion, there are also programs such F, the aim is for LVMH to innovate their as from Thales, Microsoft, Ubisoft, The ability for shoppers to try on offerings by utilising the products and HEC, BNP Paribas. VeePee is one of clothing digitally before purchasing solutions developed by the start-ups these and is a 9-month accelerator becomes an interesting invention to on the accelerator. It is one side of their at Station F focusing on fashion, tech explore which FITLE offers with their innovative strategies brought to life and retail. The goal is to generate technology. It has been said to reduce when Ian Rogers became the group’s growth for its start-ups by testing “the cart abandonment rate by more Chief Digital Officer. their solution on VeePee and being than 60%”28 which is usually one of Start-ups selected for this linked to their partner brands. Each the top priorities for brands online accelerator tend to be retail-based solution has the opportunity to be who adopt technologies such as as they reimagine the ways in which tested by the 73 million members of these. During an interview with Lara consumers purchase or experience the community and 7,000 partner Mazzoni, CEO and Co-Founder of UK
24. Journal Du Luxe, Louis Vuitton: a mobile store in a caravan. https://journalduluxe.fr/louis-vuitton-mobile-store-us/, 2020 | 25. Mode & Maroquinerie - Prêt-À-Porter, Haute Couture, Accessoires - LVMH, https://www.lvmh.fr/les-maisons/mode-maroquinerie/ , 2020 | 26. Bregeras G., LVMH Inaugure La Maison Des Startups Au Sein De Station F, https://business.lesechos.fr/entrepreneurs/communaute/0301539750446-lvmh-inaugure-un-programme-au-sein-de-station-f-320157.php , 2018 | 27. Beloni T. The Mission, https://lamaisondesstartups.lvmh.com/the-mission/ , 2020 | 28. Vente-Privee IMPULSE, https://impulse.vente-privee.com/startups, 2019 fit fashion technology startup Bodi. Epitech. Here the start-ups benefit Me, she points out that “there is a ritual from the network of IFM and Creative of the buying, selling and try on [which Valley. The gap is bridged between is] now gone as it cannot legally or the academic activities from IFM and safely happen”29 due to the current entrepreneurial environment. This is social distancing measures that have another example of how the industry impacted the customer and business is nurturing the future leaders of the relationships therefore, showing a fashion tech scene in the hope to need to substitute this through fashion expand it later. technologies such as online fittings described in this section. Platform A // Adidas While this area of virtual try-ons // Plug & Play continues to be explored by fashion companies including Gucci30 Adidas went for another strategy by and Farfetch31, if results show its asking Plug & Play, one of the biggest effectiveness in sales & customer players in the startup world, to open its acquisition, it is likely to become a accelerator in Paris. Plug & Play is an popular asset to the industry with all-inclusive solution, creating tailor- further innovations ahead. made programs around the globe. Selected start-ups offer new products ADN // Institut and business models for the sports industry. Adidas invested €1 million Français De La into this program and is a part of their strategy called “Creating the New” Mode // Creative based on 3 pillars - Speed, Cities and Valley Open source. L’Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) In Paris others made a similar choice and Creative Valley run together ADN to Adidas. In their Brand & Retail X IFM at Station F. It is an incubator for sections, we can find The Lafayette // around 30 start-ups related to design Plug & Play running for several years or digital solutions. Creative Valley, now. It is an accelerator dedicated to French facilitator, has been opening retail and e-commerce. This program Creative Centers since 2012, some is for start-ups to reach in 3 months of them just under the banner of the growth they would have reached Creative Valley and others for clients in 12. Here, the pillar for speed is clearly or partners. IFM and Creative Valley achieved as startups are encouraged already worked together for projects to push their ideas quicker for earlier involving The Entrepreneurs program implementation to the industry. of IFM, collaboration with 42 and
29. Interview with Lara Mazzoni, Paris, France 2020 | 30. Camara S., Snapchat app launches "Try-on" option with Gucci, https://fashionunited.fr/ actualite/retail/l-application-snapchat-lance-l-option-try-on-avec-gucci/2020070224225#:~:text=Il%20est%20d%C3%A9sormais%20possible%20 d,campagne%20mode%20en%20r%C3%A9alit%C3%A9%20augment%C3%A9e.&text=Cette%20technologie%20a%20%C3%A9t%C3%A9%20 Page - 24 pr%C3%A9sent%C3%A9e,eu%20lieu%20en%20juin%20dernier, 2020 | 31. Jasman A., Try on Off-White sneakers virtually with the Farfetch app, https:// www.esquiresg.com/farfetch-virtual-try-on-off-white-sneakers-wannaby-ar-technology/ , 2020 CONCLUSION
As highlighted throughout the Editor-in-Chief at FashNerd33, she more in-depth collaborations paper, many initiatives involved points out that: between tech companies/startups across Europe so far are only just and corporates/established fashion scratching the surface of the full “Although brands that much deeper, as well potential that fashion technology as more meaningful partnerships, and its stakeholders have to offer. technology has the can be made. Such activity can Most programs and other initiatives push the conversations beyond the (even those not mentioned in this potential to disrupt academic and research stage which paper) are still focused on specifics the industry, it is is currently the stage that is being - whether that is dealing with most explored. Governments and fashion or technology separately. worth noting that public organisations have means There is room for start-ups, SMEs, these solutions are to be more involved in this field as it companies and students with a continues to emerge and transform growing interest in synergising only tools, therefore the industry. Their involvement can the two together amongst other be one of the ways this field can be important considerations in the to harness their full taken more seriously and attract industry such as sustainability potential, fashion further meaningful conversations. which La Caserne will tackle when Only when the above is understood it opens in 2021.32 It is through companies need by these stakeholders, as well as further consideration of these other established fashion companies, can important factors that this field can to first understand the industry as a whole become a further innovate. how these tech leading force for innovation above When concerning the brands 'tools' can help other industries. who may benefit from the use of new technologies, a level of open- them improve their mindedness is required from them to collaborate with fashion tech business.” start-ups and makers who have the In addition to this, it may be difficult ability to transform their business for many to fully understand the models for the better. In light of need to innovate and explore this, when in conversation with opportunities mentioned Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding throughout this paper. It is through
32. La Caserne, https://www.lacaserneparis.com/ , 2020 33. Interview with Muchaneta Kapfunde, Paris France, 2020 GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Accelerator: A company or plan that helps new companies or organisations to grow quickly and become successful Artificial intelligence: The study of how to produce computers that have some of the qualities of the human mind, such as the ability to understand language, recognize pictures, solve problems, and learn Brick and Mortar: Existing as a physical building, especially a shop, rather than doing business only on the internet Disruptive: Causing trouble and therefore stopping something from continuing as usual Fashion: A style that is popular at a particular time, especially in clothes, hair, make-up, etc. Fab lab: A place to play, to create, to mentor and to invent: a place for learning and innovation. Fab Labs provide access to the environment, the skills, the materials and the advanced technology to allow anyone anywhere to make (almost) anything. Incubator: An organisation that helps people to start new companies, especially ones involved with advanced technology Industry: The companies and activities involved in the process of producing goods for sale, especially in a factory or special area Innovator: Someone who introduces changes and new ideas Innovation: (The use of) a new idea or method Makerspace/Hackerspace: A place where people can come together to create or invent things, either using traditional crafts or technology R&D: Abbreviation for ‘research and development’ - the part of a business that tries to find ways to improve existing products, and to develop new ones Technology: (The study and knowledge of) the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries Textile: A cloth/fabric made by hand or machine
Page - 26 BIBLIOGRAPHY A technology, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Bosqué C., Ricard L., 2015, Fablabs etc., les nouveaux Acquier A., Carbone V. et Massé D., 2019, How to lieux de la fabrication numérique, Eyrolles, Paris Create Value(s) in the Sharing Economy: Business Bottollier-Depois F., Dalle B., Eychenne F. et alii., Models, Scalability, and Sustainability, Technology 2014, État des lieux et typologie des ateliers de fabrication Innovation Management Review, vol.9, n°2, pp.5-24 numérique, Rapport pour la DGE, Fing. Agogué, M., Yström, A. and Le Masson, P., 2013, Bouncken R.B., Clauss, T., Reuschl A.J., 2016, “Rethinking the Role of Intermediaries As an Architect “Coworking spaces in Asia: a business model design of Collective Exploration and Creation of Knowledge perspective”, working papers, SMS in Open Innovation”, International Journal of Innovation Management, Vol. 17 No. 2. Bregeras, Guillaume. 2018. LVMH Inaugure La Maison Des Start-ups Au Sein De Station Alexandre L., 2017, La guerre des intelligences, Lattès, F. Les Echos Executives. [online] Available at: Paris https://business.lesechos.fr/entrepreneurs/ Alter N., 2000, L’innovation ordinaire, Paris, Presses communaute/0301539750446-lvmh-inaugure-un- Universitaires de France programme-au-sein-de-station-f-320157.php. . Anderson C., 2012, Makers, the new industrial revolution, Buchert, T., A. Pförtner, J. Bonvoisin, K. Lindow, R. Crown Business, New York Stark, Model-Based Sustainable Product Development, Anthony S.C., 2015, How Singapore became an In DS 84: Proceedings of the DESIGN 2016 14th entrepreneurial hub, Harvard Business Review, February, International Design Conference, edited by Dorian https://hbr.org/2015/02/how-singapore-became-an- Marjanovic, Mario Storga, Neven Pavkovic, Nenad entrepreneurial-hub Bojcetic, and Stanko Skec APUR, 2016, L’innovation à Paris et dans la Métropole du Grand Paris, données sur les start-ups, les lieux, les méthodes, Étude produite par l’APUR, Paris C ., 1997, A survey of Augmented Reality, Azuma R. T Capdevila, I., 2013, Typologies of Localized Spaces of Presence: Teleoperator and Virtual Environments Collaborative Innovation», Rochester, NY: Social Science Research Network Creative Industries Clusters Programme. B 2018-2019. About. [online] Available at: https:// Bain, M., April 2017. Amazon has patented an automated creativeindustriesclusters.com/ . on-demand clothing factory. https://qz.com/963381/ Cugini U., Bordegoni M., Mana R., 2007, The role of amazon-amzn-has-patented-an-automated-on- virtual prototyping in the fashion sector, Springer Verlag demand-clothing-factory/ , Quartz France Barfield, W. and Weghorst, S., 1993, "The Sense of Presence within Virtual Environments : A Conceptual Framework" In Salvendy, G. and Smith, M. J. eds. 1993. Human Computer Interaction : Software And Hardware D Interfaces. New York : Elsevier DÉFI, 2019, SxSW 2019, Un monde en quête de sens. Blein A., 2017, L’émergence du coworking dans l’offre DÉFI, 2019, Annuaire Fashion Tech Europe. d’immobilier d’entreprise en Ile-de-France: un service DEFI, Un Monde En Quête De Sens: Le DEFI Publie Son relationnel coproduit par ses utilisateurs, thèse en Rapport Annuel Sur Les Enseignements Du Festival urbanisme soutenue en novembre 2017 à Créteil sous la Sxsw Pour La Mode, 15 July 2019. [online] Available at: direction de Antoine Picon https://www.defimode.org/2019/07/15/monde-quete-de- Beloni T., The Mission. 2020. [online] Available at: https:// sens-sxsw-mode/, . lamaisondesstartups.lvmh.com/the-mission/ . DeFINE Fashion-Tech Network. 2020. About Define - Bolton A., 2016, ManusxMachina: Fashion in an age of Define Fashion-Tech Network Europe. [online] Available at: https://www.define-network.eu/about-define/ . Gershenfeld, N., Gershenfeld, A., and Cutcher- DGE, 2017, L’entrepreneuriat : faits et chiffres, Publication Gershenfeld, J.,2017, Designing Reality: How to Survive de la direction Générale des entreprises, MINEFI, France and Thrive in the Third Digital Revolution, Basic Books, New York Doctorow C., 2009, Makers, Tor books, New York Guler, S.D., Gannon, M. & Sicchio, K., 2016. Crafting Dougherty D. et Conrad A., 2016, Free to make, Berkeley Wearables, Berkeley, CA: Apress (CA) Dougherty, D., 2012, The Maker Movement. Innovations: Technology, Governance , Globalization 7, pp. 11–14. Dubé P. et alii, 2014, Le livre blanc des living labs, Montréal H Haigh N., et Hoffman. A. J. 2012, Hybrid Organizations: The next Chapter of Sustainable Business, Organizational Dynamics, vol. 41, n°2, pp. 12634. E Haigh N., Walker J., Bacq S., et Kickul J., 2015, Hybrid E4FT, Fashion-Tech, Education and Organizations: Origins, Strategies, Impacts, and Implications, Research Benchmarking Report // E4FT // California Management Review, vol. 57, n°3, pp. 512. EDUCATION4FASHION-TECH Hatch M., 2013, The Maker movement manifesto – Rules Creative Commons - attribution - noDerivs CC BY-ND for innovation in the new world of crafters, makers and Education4Fashion-Tech 2018 tinkerers, McGraw-Hill Education, New-York Heidegger, M., 1977, The Questions Concerning Technology and Other Essays. New York : Harper and Row F Heim, M., 1993, The Metaphysics of Virtual Reality. New Fab Lab Barcelona. 2020. Fabricademy Barcelona York : Oxford University Press – Fab Lab Barcelona. [online] Available at: https:// Heim, M.,1998, Virtual Realism. New York : Oxford University fablabbcn.org/education/academies/fabricademy- Press barcelona . Heuritech, 2020. À Propos De Heuritech - La Plateforme Ferchaud F., 2018, Fabriques numériques, action D'analyse Des Marques De Mode. 2020. Heuritech. [online] publique et territoire : en quête des living labs, fablabs et Available at: https://www.heuritech.com/fr/company/. hackerspaces (France, Belgique), thèse de doctorat en Holition. 2018., Blossoming Fashion Conversation 2020. Géographie, Rennes 2 [online] Available at: https://vimeo.com/294104627. Huchet N.s, 2015, How I built a 3D printed prosthetic hand G for myself , Make, février 2015 Gaglio G., 2011, Sociologie de l’innovation, PUF, collection Que sais-je ? . Gastfall U. et Fourmond T., 2014, DIY, makers, fablabs : à la recherche de l’autonomie , Ritimo.org Georget V., Maniak R., Rayna T., 2019, “Intrapreneuriat : dépasser la mythologie des super-héros", Rapport de l’Observatoire de l’innovation, Institut de l’entreprise, Paris. Gershenfeld N., 2005 Fab - The Coming Revolution on Your Desktop: from Personal Computers to Personal Fabrication, Basic Books, New York Gershenfeld, N.,2012,How to Make Almost Anything. Foreign Affairs, vol. 91, n°16. Page - 28 BIBLIOGRAPHY I M Imhoff C.,2018, Penser la collaboration dans les Makerspaces.com. 2020. What Is A Makerspace? Is It organisations à partir des communautés virtuelles sur le A Hackerspace Or A Makerspace?. [online] Available at: réseau social d’entreprise : rapports sociaux et modes https://www.makerspaces.com/what-is-a-makerspace/ . de régulation émergents: continuités, contradictions et/ Margolis J. et Fisher A., 2002, Unlocking the Clubhouse ou ruptures, thèse en info-com soutenue au Cnam sous : Women in Computing. MIT Press, Cambridge la direction de François Silva et Stéphane Haber en mars 2018 Matter Media MIT | matter.media.mit.edu/environments/ details/wanderers-wearables-for-interplanetary- pilgrims Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs - European Commission. 2020. COSME. Europe’S McKinsey, 2017, Digital manufacturing: The revolution Programme For Small And Medium-Sized Enterprises. will be virtualized. https://www.mckinsey.com/ business- - Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship And Smes functions/operations/our-insights/digital-manufacturing- - European Commission. [online] Available at: https:// the-revolution-will-be-virtualized ec.europa.eu/growth/smes/cosme_en. Menet N. et Zimmer B., 2018, Start-ups, arrêtons la mascarade, Dunod, Paris Menu Sabine, 2011, Les Pôles de Compétitivité, un J nouveau pilotage de la politique industrielle ? Bilan en Ile- de-France , Politiques et manage- ment public, vol. 28, n°1 Merindol V., 2017, Comment les entreprises innovent K aujourd’hui ? Des secteurs dit traditionnels aux Kohtala, C.,2017, Making “Making” Critical: How entreprises de la nouvelle économie , Rapport de Sustainability is Constituted in Fab Lab Ideology., The l’Observatoire de l’innovation, Institut de l’entreprise, Paris Design Journal, vol. 20, pp.375–394. Merindol V. et Versailles D.W., 2017, “Développer des capacités hautement créatives : le cas des laboratoires d’innovation ouverte”, Management international, vol L 22(1). Merindol V., Bouquin N., Versailles D.W., Aubouin N., La French Tech. 2020. Lafrenchtech.Com. [online] Capdevila I., Lechaffotec A., Voisin, Chiovetta A., Available at: https://lafrenchtech.com/fr/ . 2016, Le livre blanc des open labs en France : Quelles Labrune J.-B., 2017, A brief history of fablabs, Medium, pratiques ? Quels changements ?, Livre blanc produit par https://medium. com/@jeanbaptiste/a-brief-history-of- Futuris/ANRT et newPIC/ PSB, Paris. fablabs-bfe67fdcb68e Merindol, V., Versailles, 2017, Créer et innover Lécuyer C., 2006, Making Silicon Valley: Innovation and aujourd’hui en Ile de France : le rôle des plateformes the Growth of High Tech, 1930-1970, MA., MIT, Cambridge d’innovation, Rapport d’étude commandé par Innovation London Fashion Week | Data Visualisation. 2018. Holition. Factory, Bpifrance Le Hub et Paris&Co, Paris, France. Com. [online] Available at: https://holition.com/work/bfc. Merindol, V., Versailles, D.W., Aubouin, N., Le LVMH. Mode & Maroquinerie - Prêt-À-Porter, Haute Chaffotec A., Capdevila, I.,2018, Créer et innover Couture, Accessoires - LVMH. 2020. LVMH. [online] aujourd’hui en France : le rôle des plateformes Available at: https://www.lvmh.fr/les-maisons/mode- d’innovation dans les écosystèmes régionaux, Rapport maroquinerie/. d’étude commandé par Innovation Factory et Bpifrance Le Lab, Paris, France. Mihaleva G., Koh C., 2016, Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture, World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology International Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering Vol:10, No:7 MingFeng T., Baskaran A., Pancholi J., Lu Y., 2014, “ Technology business incubators in China and India: Vienna a comparative Analysis”, Journal of Global information Seymour, S., 2010. Functional aesthetics : visions in Technology Management vol 16 (2). fashionable technology, Springer, Vienna STATION F. 2020. STATION F. [online] Available at: https://stationf.co/fr/ N Statista. 2020. Topic: Apparel Market In The UK. [online] Nechvatal J., 1999, Immersive Ideals / Critical Distances. Available at: https://www.statista.com/topics/3348/ apparel-market-in-the-uk/ . Noble D. F., 2011, Forces of production, a social history of industrial automation, Transaction publishers T O Tixier J., Castro Gonçalves L., 2008, Les pôles de compétitivité à l’heure de l’évaluation : quel modèle de Ottaviano N., 2017, Architectes-urbanistes 2.0 : enquête clusters à la française ? Annales des Mines, 2008, vol.2 ethnographique sur une pratique de concepteurs de la ville à venir – des promesses du numérique à TNS Sofres, 2013, Les nouveaux visages des startupers, une innovation en situation, thèse de doctorat en une étude réalisée pour l’Atelier de BNP Paribas. Aménagement du territoire soutenue à Paris 10 P U Porto I.O., & Ramon J., 2014, “Intra and extra regional openness: the role of trust builders as open innovation V intermediaries”, 5th congress of the European regional Association, Aout, St Petersburg. Viva Technology | Media Partners. 2020. Viva Technology partners. [online] Available at: https:// Psotka, J. and Davison, S., 1996, Cognitive Factors vivatechnology.com/media/media-partners/ Associated with Immersion In Virtual Environments U. S. Army Research Institute for the Behavioral and Social Sciences Report, Available at: http://205.130.63.7/ , 1996. W Psotka, J., Davison, S. and Lewis, S., 1993, "Exploring Wang B., 2017, “Hubs of internet entrepreneurs: the Immersion In Virtual Space" In VR Systems, Fall, 1993, 12, emergence of coworking of ces in Shanghai, China”, pp. 70-82 Journal of Urban Technology, April Wenger E. , 1998, Communities of Practice: Learning, Q Meaning, and Identity, Cambridge University Press. R Ramadier M., 2017, Bienvenue dans le nouveau monde, X comment j’ai survécu à la coolitude des start-ups, Premier Parallèle, Paris Y RGCS, 2016, Coworkers, Makers, hackers in the city: reinventing policies, corporate strategies and citizenship Z ? (Report)
S Seymour, S., 2008. Fashionable Technology, Springer, Page - 30 REFERENCES
Arthur R., Lvmh’s Ian Rogers On Viewing ‘digital’ As DEFI, Un Monde En Quête De Sens : Le DEFI Publie Oxygen, Focusing On ‘internet’ As Culture, https:// Son Rapport Annuel Sur Les Enseignements Du thecurrentdaily.com/2016/12/05/lvmhs-ian-rogers- Festival Sxsw Pour La Mode, https://www.defimode. viewing-digital-oxygen-focusing-internet-culture/ , 2020 org/2019/07/15/monde-quete-de-sens-sxsw-mode/, 2019 The Fashion Awards 2020, Celebrating the individuals and organisations who led change, https://fashionawards. Viva Technology | Media Partners, https:// com/About/Watch-The-Fashion-Awards-2020, 2020 vivatechnology.com/media/media-partners/, 2020 Makery Media For Labs, http://www.makery.info/en/ Heuritech, The first analysis platform for fashion brands, map-labs/ , 2020 https://www.heuritech.com/fr/company/, 2020 Makerspaces, What is a Makerspace? Is it a Journal Du Luxe, Louis Vuitton: a mobile store in a Hackerspace or a Makerspace?, https://www. caravan. https://journalduluxe.fr/louis-vuitton-mobile- makerspaces.com/what-is-a-makerspace/, 2020 store-us/, 2020 Fabricademy Barcelona – Fab Lab Barcelona, https:// Mode & Maroquinerie - Prêt-À-Porter, Haute Couture, fablabbcn.org/education/academies/fabricademy- Accessoires - LVMH, https://www.lvmh.fr/les-maisons/ barcelona, 2020 mode-maroquinerie/ , 2020 COSME. Europe’s programme for small and Bregeras G., LVMH Inaugure La Maison Des Start- medium-sized enterprises. - Internal Market, Industry, ups Au Sein De Station F, https://business.lesechos.fr/ Entrepreneurship and SMEs - European Commission, entrepreneurs/communaute/0301539750446-lvmh- https://ec.europa.eu/growth/smes/cosme_en, 2020 inaugure-un-programme-au-sein-de-station-f-320157. php , 2018 EC Europa, Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/content/small- Beloni T., The Mission, https://lamaisondesstartups.lvmh. companies-create-85-new-jobs-0_en, 2012 com/the-mission/ , 2020 DeFINE Fashion-Tech Network Europe, About Vente-Privee IMPULSE, https://impulse.vente-privee. DeFINE, https://www.define-network.eu/, 2020 com/start-ups, 2019 Statista, Apparel market in the UK, https://www.statista. Interview with Lara Mazzoni, 2020 com/topics/3348/apparel-market-in-the-uk/ , 2020 Camara S., Snapchat app launches "Try-on" option Holition, London Fashion Week | Data Visualisation, with Gucci, https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/retail/l- https://holition.com/work/bfc, 2018 application-snapchat-lance-l-option-try-on-avec- gucci/2020070224225#:~:text=Il%20est%20 Holition Blossoming Fashion Conversation, https:// d%C3%A9sormais%20possible%20d,campagne%20 vimeo.com/294104627, 2018 mode%20en%20r%C3%A9alit%C3%A9%20 Fashion Tech Days Nordcréa, https://fashiontechdays. augment%C3%A9e.&text=Cette%20 fr/, 2020 technologie%20a%20%C3%A9t%C3%A9%20 Interview with Sara Dsouki, Paris, France 2020. pr%C3%A9sent%C3%A9e,eu%20lieu%20en%20 juin%20dernier, 2020 Fashion Data, https://content.fashiondata.io/jarvis-by- fashion-data , 2020 Jasman A., Try on Off-White sneakers virtually with the Farfetch app, https://www.esquiresg.com/farfetch-virtual- La French Tech, https://lafrenchtech.com/fr/ , 2020 try-on-off-white-sneakers-wannaby-ar-technology/ , RFI, France looks to its unicorns to leap ahead in digital 2020 startup race, https://www.rfi.fr/en/france/20190916- La Caserne, https://www.lacaserneparis.com/ , 2020 french-president-macron-looks-unicorns-fly-ahead- digital-tech-race , 2019 Interview with Alexis Arragon & Guillaume Gouraud, Paris France, 2020 Defi Mode, DEFI’s mission, https://www.defimode.org/ le-defi/missions/description/, 2018 25 Corporate Innovation Facts, https://www.coplex. com/25-corporate-innovation-facts , 2020 STATION F, https://stationf.co/fr/ , 2020 Interview with Muchaneta Kapfunde, Paris France, 2020 COPYRIGHT © Foundry Powered by IFA Paris. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means— graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, and information storage and retrieval systems—without the express written permission of Foundry Powered by IFA Paris. Contents are based on information from sources believed to be reliable, but accuracy and completeness cannot be guaranteed. Nothing herein should be construed as any past, current, or future recommendation to buy or sell any security or an offer to sell, or a solicitation of an offer to buy any security. This material does not purport to contain all of the information that a prospective client, investor or partner may wish to consider and is not to be relied upon as such or used in substitution for the exercise of independent judgment.