The Future of Fashion Is Digital

7-8/2017 English edition

The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com

THE FUTURE THE FUTURE OF FASHION OF FASHION IS DIGITAL. IS DIGITAL.

Go from Concept to Consumer Seamlessly. 1 0100011110100 1100 101 000 000 11 01 01 11 00 00 10 01 0 1 With the digital revolution now upon us, Gerber 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 Design 0 1 0 1 0 1 Technology has launched an integrated digital 1 1 0 1 0 Develop1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 evolution of its own. Another step forward for 0 1

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Learn more about Gerber’s Integrated Digital Solutions by visiting gerbertechnology.com/download/gerbers-digital-solutions/ THE ATHLEISURE TREND ... has blurred the traditional boundaries between sportswear & fashion.

THE BIKE MESSENGER COLLECTION

WWW.STOLL.COM editorial

Vaporisation – one puff and it’s gone!

Vaporisation means “vanishing into thin air” headquarters in Cestas, the more and is a term currently used to describe the than 100 guests from all over the digital transformation of our world, both at world, including myself, were bom- work and at home, in which physical products barded with information about “The are increasingly being replaced by information power of Cloud“– “The IoT (Internet of (software). In his fascinating book entitled Things)“ – “Connected products“ – “AI (Artifi- Iris Schlomski, “Vaporized”, Robert Tercek cuts to the chase cial Intelligence)“ – “Industry 4.0“ – “PLM editior-in-chief with two succinct quotes right at the start: 4.0“ – “China 2020” and the “Millennials” “Software is eating the world” and “Mobile etc. ... Although it wasn’t long before our technology is eating the world” (Marc An- heads were buzzing, we all came away with a dreessen/Venture-Capital, p. sense of where the digital jour- In “Vaporized” (published 2015 in English) innovati- 13). Just pause for a money will be taking us! on expert Robert Tercek ment and think, for exam- Digitalisation has already takes us to the front line ple, of the cameras, dicta- changed consumer behaviour of digital transformation. Tercek provides an essen- phones, travel alarms etc both radically and irrevocably. tial guide to this vaporized that have all been vaporised Customers are fully networked world, with proven strategies for those who want by the smartphone. and the likes of google, ebay to master the process Nowadays, many corporate and amazon already allow us functions can largely be emu- to buy anything and every- lated by software and before thing quickly, cheaply and you know it – bang – they will through a variety of different be vaporised. Our world will distribution channels. soon be fully and inevitably Industry 4.0 is at the same shaped by the opportunities time revolutionising produc- Advertisement

7-8/2017 offered by the internet and tion. The new technologies English edition “www” will no longer stand network textile Photo: are opening the door to for “worldwide web” but for more flexible working methods as manu- The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com

“whatever, whenever, wherever”. Companies facturers endeavour to satisfy the needs of THE FUTURE THE FUTURE OF FASHION OF FASHION with “analogue” products or services will be their customers and the modern consumer. IS DIGITAL. IS DIGITAL. competing against their flexible, affordable, Mobile, Cloud, Crowd, Artificial Intelligence – and purely digital rivals. Whatever can be re- the new technologies and ensuing opportuni- Go from Concept to Consumer Seamlessly. 1 0100011110100 1100 101 000 000 11 01 01 11 00 00 10 01 0 1 With the digital revolution now upon us, Gerber 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 Design 0 1 0 1 0 1 Technology has launched an integrated digital 1 1 0 1 0 Develop1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 evolution of its own. Another step forward for placed by software will be replaced by soft- ties are turning every sector of the economy 0 1

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head. A digital future is currently in the mak- Produce Sell

Learn more about Gerber’s Integrated The future is ”agile” ing that is still beyond the limits of our imagi- Digital Solutions by visiting gerbertechnology.com/download/gerbers-digital-solutions/ Very much in keeping with this trend, this nation! This is why I warmly recommend tak- year’s Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 was all ing a copy of “Vaporised” by Robert Tercek about digitalisation and Industry 4.0. These away on holiday with you, as it points the way Gerber Technology central topics also formed the focus of this forward to a radically new, software-defined Carl-Zeiss-Ring 10 year’s Lectra Fashion 4.0 Event, marking the environment. 85737 Ismaning launch of Fashion PLM 4.0 at the beginning of GERMANY June in Cestas, near Bordeaux. Lectra’s CEO Here’s wishing you a long, hot and thor- Phone +49 89 4209980 Daniel Harrari recognised the fundamental oughly enjoyable summer! Fax +49 89 422115 and far-reaching impact digitalisation would have on industry years ago and has since been Yours [email protected] aligning his company to the “digital, smart www.gerbertechnology.com world” with great gusto and spirit. At Lectra‘s

7-8/2017 | textile network 3 P ho to : A content n n e -S o p h Photo: Lenzing Photo: ie teufels.com

B o s t

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Photo: Iris Schlomski Photo:

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26 | Sustainability

18 | Special 12 | Techtextil/Texprocess Photos: Suzanne Lee Photos: 16 | Embroidery

e in ol br m E : to Human Solutions Photo: o h P

16 | Digitization 28 | Fairtrade

Visit online: www.textile-network.com Issue 7-8/2017

EDITORIAL TRADE FAIR REVIEW TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY BUSINESS Editorial Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 IVGT USA Vaporisation – one puff A young perspective 14 Good atmosphere at The sock capitol of the world 39 and it's gone! 3 Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 Techtextil 30 Huge interest in embroidery 16 Zünd BUSINESS TRADE FAIR NEWS The target: Batch size 1 31 12th Prime Source Forum Munich Fabric Start SPECIAL Techtextil 2017 The future of fashion A new trade fair for sourcing 6 Jubilee Robotex 31 25 years of Oeko-Tex 18 sourcing 40 A+A 2017 Gerber Technology 56. Dornbirn-MFC It's the individual that counts 6 Bring on the digital TECHNICAL TEXTILES An idea- and network Africa Sourcing & technology revolution 32 generator 41 Fashion Week Technical textiles Sourcing in China? 24 Digitalisation Premiéres in Addis Abeba 6 Hype or reality 32 Bertha-Benz-Prize 2017 Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 Lenzing Weaving ultra-stable More sustainability Gauging the mood 7 metall cells 41 in agriculture 26 BUSINESS Exklusive-Series: Industry Amsilk Lectra RESEARCH Innovative Biostell high- Tradition goes digital 34 4.0 explained - part 4.1 Perspektives 2030 performance products 26 IFKT Working World 42 Too rapid advances in Swiss National Section 36 textile industry 8 HOME TEXTILES Milano Unica LAST BUT NOT LEAST BECAUSE QUALITY NEVER Diolen Safe Yarns Where do we go from here? 37 Network TRADE FAIR REVIEW Sustainable, flame-retardant Success at and antimony-free 27 IWTO Fespa Techtextil/Texprocess 46 GOES OUT OF FASHION Innovations in digital Benetton joins IWTO 38 textile printing 10 FASHION Italy Trends come and go. We at KERN-LIEBERS Textile follow just the one: The development of PREVIEW / IMPRINT Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 Fairtrade cotton Laura Biagiotti died 38 cutting-edge solutions for reliably functioning textile machines. For this, the right expertise Trade fairs fully focused Sustainable work clothing Confindustria Moda Preview 45 and a constant drive to set new technological standards are required. This is what defines us. on future prospects 12 on the up 28 Moving forward together 38 Imprint 45 This is what makes us a strong partner.

4 textile network | 7-8/2017 www.kern-liebers-textile.com teufels.com

28 | Fairtrade

BECAUSE QUALITY NEVER GOES OUT OF FASHION

Trends come and go. We at KERN-LIEBERS Textile follow just the one: The development of cutting-edge solutions for reliably functioning textile machines. For this, the right expertise and a constant drive to set new technological standards are required. This is what defines us. This is what makes us a strong partner. www.kern-liebers-textile.com In September the Munich trade fair news Fabric Start will present a further trade fair format

MUNICH FABRIC START A new trade fair for sourcing Start Munich Fabric Photo:

Running concurrently with Mu- brands and retailers seeking re- complex portfolio now enjoys a the synergy of two complemen- nich Fabric Start in September liable production partners with joint platform in Munich. tary and synchronised events some 200 international manu- high quality standards world- Wolfgang Klinder, Managing like Munich Fabric Start as one facturing firms will present wide. The aim here, in particu- Director Munich Fabric Start: of the most successful trade their range of products, process lar, is to present new sourcing “The high demands of the com- fairs for fabrics and additionals solutions and services in the countries and their potential, plex and logistically elaborate and the new Munich Apparel field of manufacturing and their solutions and services. production and sourcing pro- Source specialised in manufac- sourcing in Munich. The range Thanks to the two complemen- cesses in the textile and fash- turing and sourcing.” is addressed to European tary trade fair formats this ion sectors necessarily require [www.munichfabricstart.com]

1,900 exhibitors from all continents will be in AFRICA SOURCING & FASHION WEEK Dusseldorf at the A+A Premières in Addis Abeba Africa’s main trade show for goods, fashion and fashionable fotolia Photo: the cotton, textile, apparel, accessories will be the main home and technology industry items on display. Companies is entering the next level. like Almeda Textile, Atraco, From 3 to 6 October 2017, the Baykar Tekstil, Else Textile, In- third Africa Sourcing & Fashion dochina Textile, Maa Garment, Week in Addis Ababa will wel- YKK have already confirmed come international providers their participation. Home and and buyers and will be cooper- household textile providers will

Photo: Messe Düsseldorf Photo: ating for the first time with also be presented. Messe Frankfurt. As part of the Machine manufacturers for A+A 2017 partnership, the three new garment production, CAD/CAM It’s the individual that counts trade fair brands Texworld Ad- systems, printers, inks and ac- dis Abeba, Apparel Sourcing cessories will have a strong From 17 to 20 October every- tional trade fair and a conven- Addis Abeba and Texprocess presence, too. Brother Indus- thing in Düsseldorf will revolve tion. A+A 2017 can already Addis Abeba will be launched tries, FK Group and Groz-Beck- around a safe, secure and warrant at this stage that it will within the Africa Sourcing & ert have already confirmed healthy workplace. Trade visi- offer the full range of the latest Fashion Week. The event trio in their participation as well as tors from all over the world will global trends and products in Addis Abeba’s Millennium Hall Has Group Turkey, Juki Corpo- be meeting at the Düsseldorf industrial safety, health promo- will present over 250 interna- ration, Pegasus Sewing Ma- Exhibition Centre for A+A, tion in the workplace and safe- tional exhibitors from 25 coun- chines, Silver Star, Veit. comprising both an interna- ty management at work. The tries. The largest exhibiting na- Parallel to the fair there will be worldwide PPE market current- tions coming to Ethiopia include a comprehensive programme, ly has a volume of around 18 Turkey, the United Arabic Emir- including a fashion show, lec- billion Euro. 38 per cent of this ates, Tanzania, Sri Lanka, Bang- ture series, a trend area and a figure (i.e. EUR 5.8 billion) ac- ladesh, India, Italy and Germa- matchmaking platform. counts for the markets of the ny. Apparel fabrics, leather [www.messefrankfurt.com] European Union, including 1.8 billion Euro in Germany alone. Experts are expecting the market to grow even further. A+A Read further trade fair 2015 attracted 65,000 trade news on visitors from over 80 countries, www.textile-network.com with an international share of around 30 per cent. [www.aplusa.de]

Following Europe, Asia and America, Messe Frankfurt is 6 textile network | 7-8/2017 expanding its textile event portfolio to encompass Africa Techtextil/Texprocess 2017

Gauging the mood

What a week! At this year’s sitors. Kufner‘s THS textile hea- twin fairs Techtextil/Tex- ting technology, likewise, recei- process, we were so busy we ved much attention. After ma- had little time to come up for king inroads into the realms of air. But did the exhibitors come fashion, church pews and hea- away with the same feeling? ted artificial turf, the company, And which of the many high- according to CEO Ulrich Sogl, lights impressed the visitors the “sees itself moving into the au- most? textile network went in tomotive field.” All in all, “The search of answers. We particu- fair is a perfect platform for larly wanted to know which presenting oneself, unveiling lasting memories the compa- innovations, forging new con- nies would take home from xxxxxxxxxxx Human Solutions Photo: tacts, networking and gathe- Techtextil/Texprocess and How we work in the future: Plenty of positive feedback was showered upon Human Solu- ring new ideas,” concluded which highlights were in great- tions for its Digital Fashion Board Outlast Europe’s President est demand. Starting with the Martin Bentz. And how right he best news first, we received nagat of Lindauer Dornier, Which highlights were in is. In fact, we couldn’t have put positive responses right across would prefer the event to be demand? it better ourselves! The next the board! “pitched in a similar way to be- The topic of digitalisation Techtextil/Texprocress in Frank- “Texprocess will go down in fore”. Even so, many apprecia- aroused a lot of interest among furt a.M. takes place from 14 to Gerber Technology’s trade-fair te the organiser’s ambition to visitors. Be it for digital textile 17 May 2019. history as a resounding suc- provide the audience with a printing and the options to [www.techtextil.com] cess,” stated Yvonne Heinen- view of the bigger picture. Jen print on different materials [www.texprocess.de] Foudeh. Stephan Gunold of Gu- Sutton of Heathcoat Fabrics Li- such as cotton, fibre glass, po- [Iris Schlomski] nold GmbH also described Tex- mited: “We have attended lyamide etc. (Mimaki/Multiplot) process 2017 as the most suc- Techtextil multiple times, and or the networking of design, cessful event thus far “both in we always leave feeling eager pattern creation and cutting Multiplot presented innovations in digital terms of the number of visitors for the next, and the integration through to the sewing shop textile printing and their countries of origin”. of Texprocess gives a wider au- with a cut ticket and labelling This view was shared by a great dience, with more variety and system (Gerber Technology). many exhibitors. “A good at- further opportunity”. After all, Plenty of positive feedback was mosphere from the first day to the broader spectrum of exhibi- showered upon Human Solu- the last,” said Sylke Mikolajcz- tors and products “attracts tions for its Digital Fashion ak of Delius. Dr.-Ing Oliver Ma- buyers from overseas and Board, which was exhibited in etschke of Ettlin concurred, la- perhaps encourages some to the context of product develop- belling Techtextil as “the hub look into fields beyond their ment and showroom solutions. of the industry!”. current sphere of interest,” sta- Much interest was also genera- Feelings among exhibitors are ted Stephan Gunold. Like Gu- ted by the innovative woven still somewhat mixed regarding nold, many companies have al- materials. Olbo & Mehler recei- the benefits of having the twin- ready revealed their intention ved much attention for its geo- fair format. Whereas Joachim to exhibit in Frankfurt again in textiles, its heat-resistant and Rees of Multiplot described the 2019. The participants, particu- flame-retardant materials and concept as “super with both larly at Techtextil, believe that its reinforced woven textile for fairs making a perfect fit”, the “three-day duration” is suf- construction purposes. Marke- others could barely see “any ficient as the “influx of visitors ting Manager, Erich Zorn, also common ground” between dropped sharply on the Thurs- noted that the firm’s ballistic them. Some long-standing ex- day afternoon,” stated Eric materials for bulletproof appli- hibitors, including Sabine Wan- Zorn of Olbo & Mehler Tex. cations had attracted many vi- Multiplot Photo:

7-8/2017 | textile network 7 research

“Perspectives 2030” Too rapid advances in textile industry!

ning shoes, skirts, dresses and, as announced by an Airbus spo- kesperson, also fibre composite plastic brackets containing staple fibres in aeroplanes, are fast becoming reality. Breaking Photo: Bayern Innovativ Photo: news: An embroidery machine FKT/ M.Richter Photo: has just appeared in the UK as FKT-Chef Dr. Klaus Futurologist Thomas a 3D printer. Jansen Strobel

Fibre-sensory wound moni- fitted with sensors and comple- toring: mented with apps and additio- Several years ago, “Perspecti- nal performance features such ves 2025” identified an area re- as data monitoring and trai- quiring significant action and ning support. This suggests that research. Since then, textile re- traditional textile manufactur- searchers in Dresden – and it ers may well lose their hold on appears – also in Wales, are this segment of the apparel in- Textile future arrives sooner than thought! The textile sector should get ready working on methods for moni- dustry. They may instead be- toring the healing of wounds come suppliers to solution pro- Just five years after the German swer: sooner than anticipated. “from the inside out”. The providers, whose new business FKT research board (Forschung- The following four examples ject at Swansea University is models in the fitness, wellbeing skuratorium Textil) published provide a rough outline of what known as “Smart Bandages” and health sectors market the its “Perspectives 2025” strate- the imminent future holds for and aims to employ a 3D prin- perceivable benefits for the gy paper, it is already becoming the textile industry. ter to produce dressings with customer as a package and/or clear not only to Germany’s sensors in line with the subscription. textile sector that several in- patient’s individual needs. dustry forecasts anticipated for 3D textile printing: Forecasts provide new the middle of the next decade, At ITMA 2015, 3D textile prin- Luminous wallpaper: angle are in fact already well on their ting was mostly a talking point Glowing, colour-changing wall- In a textile network interview way. Rapid advances in tech- just for backyard micro compa- paper is another example of with Dr. Klaus Jansen, Mana- creora® Fresh odor neutralizing elastane for fresh feeling. nology and materials are exac- nies. Even so, the managing di- how seemingly futuristic ideas ging Director of the FKT, and erbating the need for a forecast rector of one of Germany’s big- become reality much sooner “futurologist” Thomas Strobel, up to and beyond 2030 that gest textile machinery makers, than expected, albeit on a smal- who both penned “Perspecti- preferably extends beyond na- predicted: “This topic will start ler scale. This hypothetical, yet ves 2025”, it soon became tional borders. How quickly can absorbing a lot of our attention innovative idea has now been clear that the work being car- creora® highcloTM super chlorine resistant elastane for we expect the vision of the fu- before the end of the decade.” transformed into a marketable ried out by today’s innovation lasting fit and shape retention. ture to become reality? The an- And true enough: Printed run- product – featuring as one of and investment projects in pre- the highlights at the last Heim- paring the ground for the fu- “Perspectives 2025” gives direction to all entrepreneurs in- textil trade fair in Frankfurt, ture will continue well into the volved in textiles as they collaborate with experts and stu- Germany, and paving the way 2030s. In this context, Mr Stro- Mode City Interfilière Paris dents working in interdisciplinary contexts and people who for striking textile wall displays. bel comments: “Research and are shaping our future. However, in a world of rapid development projects in the 8-10 July 2017 Pavilion 1 D11-E13 change, far-reaching technological transformations and in- Smart sportswear: textiles field often have a lead creasing interdisciplinary dependencies, it is all the more A similar pace in fibre develop- time of at least ten years. This important to continue writing the future to secure the long- ment is being witnessed in the means that topics identified to- term survival of today’s businesses. sports and fitness sector. Smart day probably won’t appear in sportswear is already available, an industrial context until the

8 textile network | 7-8/2017 www.creora.com creora® is registered trade mark of the Hyosung Corporation for its brand of premium elastane. to have on today’s industry, mo- Current research Five new questions news on ving forward. Besides old- The two interviewees have defined five priorities for such a school approaches, new influen- www.textile-network.com forecast: 1. New business models with marked benefits for customers, ces have to be taken into ac- using textiles as functional enablers. count such as digitalisation, the 2. Smart textile solutions for clothing, residential contexts and internet of things (IoT), Industry the workplace. 4.0 and networking. This may of the marketplace, arising, abo- 3. Production of textiles that incorporate the principles of perso- involve new business models, ve all, from the integration of nalisation, additive manufacturing methods and local pro- improved teamwork between functions and the internet of duction. companies and science as well things. This, says Jansen, has re- 4. Textile contributions for the mobility and transportation solu- as networking strategies that sulted in the “urgent need to tions of tomorrow, reflecting a diversity of form factors bey- create value and help distribute continue writing the future of ond our customary perception of the car. profits more fairly. Now that so the textile industry well beyond 5. Textiles as an integral part of sustainable construction – bey- many aspects of industry are the year 2025. I would recom- ond textile-reinforced concrete which is already in use. being digitalised, it is important mend making a forecast beyond to examine both the opportuni- 2030 very soon, preferably not mid to late-2020s, possibly even new technical opportunities ties they bring for start-ups as only on a German but also a Eu- taking another five to ten years breed new ideas and social ne- well as the inherent risks for ropean level. This would help to to become commercially availa- cessities require forward-thin- existing production set-ups that identify today targeted research ble.” Even so, given that many king and action, it is important are resistant to change. approaches for the customer re- visions are on the home straight to reflect upon and revise the Glowing wallpaper and smart quirements of tomorrow.” within just a few years, whilst impact such projects are likely clothing illustrate the dynamism [Hans-Werner Oertel]

creora® Fresh odor neutralizing elastane for fresh feeling.

creora® highcloTM super chlorine resistant elastane for lasting fit and shape retention.

Mode City Interfilière Paris 8-10 July 2017 Pavilion 1 D11-E13

www.creora.com 9 creora® is registered trade mark of the Hyosung Corporation for its brand of premium elastane. The Fespa 2017 took trade fair review place in Hamburg

Fespa Innovations in digital textile printing Fespa, the leading European fair for screen and digital printing, opened its doors from 8 to 12 May 2017 in Hamburg. Taking place at exactly the same time as twin fairs Techtextil/Texprocess in Frankfurt, it not only focused on wide-format printing but also featured several innovations in digital textile printing. Textile network went to take a closer look.

The printer manufacturers primarily der into its 5-metre-wide DFP2000 sportswear. The special fabric feed presented solutions for the large- 4-colour printer. This demonstrates and a thermoplastic adhesion device format advertising sector and appli- that digital textile printing has final- hold the fabric in place to prevent cations such as flags, banners, shop ly arrived in the field of large-format creasing and distortions during the design and retail/POS, that is, print- printing, and is here to stay. MS un- printing process. ing systems for direct sublimation veiled the Impress series which is Aleph is an Italian manufacturer of printing on polyester fabrics in designed with printing systems up industrial textile printing systems widths of up to 5 metres. The exhib- to 320cm in width and Kyocera and a newcomer to the market: the its included, for example, the new printheads. This is the first product printers from the LaForte series Agfa 3.2m-wide, six-colour Avinci to emerge from the collaboration come with Kyocera printheads and DX3200 sublimation printer with between those companies organ- are designed both for industrial Konika-Minolta printheads. Supplied ised within the Dover Group which, transfer printing and industrial di- with Agfa’s own inks and its own among others, is composed of MS rect printing on a wide variety of dif- Asanti RIP software, this printer pro- (printers), JK-Group (inks) and Cal- ferent textiles from fashion and vides the market with another all- dera (RIP software). home textiles to sports fabrics. Print- round system for wide-format tex- ing takes place with 4, 6 or 8 colours tile printing. Durst and ATP show- Swimwear and Sportswear (reactive, acid, pigment, sublimation cased direct printing solutions that New printers designed specifically and dispersion inks). use sublimation inks for completely for textile applications were pre- Mimaki revealed the new TX300P new formats in widths up to 5 me- sented by Efi-Reggiani. The Renoir hybrid printer as a particularly flexi- tres. Whereas Durst has based its Flexy has a Kyocera printhead and is ble solution, which allows both sub- Rhotex 500 on the tried-and-trusted Mimaki revealed the suitable for the industrial scale limation and pigment inks to be pro- new TX300P hybrid Rhotex 325, ATP has built an inline printer as a particular- printing of flexible materials such as cessed on one printer at the same fixing system with integrated calen- ly flexible solution jersey with Lycra for swimwear and time without the need to change the

The next Fespa is scheduled to run in Berlin from 15 to 18 May 2018 and will surely have a stronger focus on textile printing solutions. Digital textile printing is at home both at Fespa (digital) and at ITMA (textiles). There is general consensus that staging a fair devoted exclusively to this one area is currently unfeasible. Visitors, therefore, have no alternative than to make frequent visits to these fairs to keep pace with the breath-taking speed with which this dynamic sector is developing. Photo: Stephan Geitel Photo:

10 textile network | 7-8/2017 Photo: pixabay Photo: Stephan Geitel Photo:

Avinci DX3200 by Agfa fashion and sportswear printing on Inks is a soft signage dye all high-speed industrial printers. Fe- sublimation roll-to-roll Improved dispersion inks for outdoor applications were the order of printer lix Schoeller has also stepped inside the day among ink manufacturers. Accordingly, a division of the JK the sublimation ring by offering the Group has developed Kiian inks with high levels of light and sublima- S-Race microporous sublimation pation fastness, specifically for flag manufacturers for whom post-print per. The papers designed for transfer washes have become superfluous. J-Teck3 (also part of the JK Group) printing are characterised by parti- presented its new range of J-Tex P-E (Epson heads) and J-Tex P-K cularly short drying and transfer (Kyocera heads) pigment inks, designed for the textile printing indus- times, as well as good dimensional try and a diversity of different fibre blends. stability. Ready-to-wear items such as shirts Software and headgear can also be transfer Being a new member of the Dover Group, Caldera unveiled the Tex- printed. Exhibiting at Colgraphix’s tilepro RIP solution for both advertising printing and industrial textile stand, Vapor Apparel showed its printers. A major focus was on integrating Step&Repeat functions, range of Vapor-Solar sublimation the RGB colour space, and workflow management for industrial texti- textiles, which are characterised by le applications. Other interesting textile functions offered by RIP soft- high levels of colour-fastness and a ware were demonstrated by the Spanish company Inedit. These inclu- large colour space. Elsewhere, man- de, for example, photoshop plugins for textile designers, that show ufacturers were offering printing colours in the actual printer gamut or allow colour separations in the systems for the printing of made-up design process, thus creating a closer link between the design and T-shirts. Kornit rises above the crowd production processes. The Swiss RIP manufacturer Ergo Soft has ad- with the Vulcan which is designed ded several functions to the XV version it released last year, such as for industrial printing volumes of the ability to convert RGB profiles as well as a 64-bit capability. SAi around 250 units/hour in seven col- offered its RIP software as a subscription, the duration of which is ours and on light or dark ground col- determined by the customer. ours. [www.fespa.com] inks. Given that the fixing conditions partitions completely new designs. [Stephan Geitel] for both ink systems are almost However, visitors going in search of identical, the user can print cotton, textile media other than polyester, polyester and polyester blends, e.g. struggled to find what they were Advertisement for home textiles, on one machine. looking for in Hamburg. Only the Being that Fespa revolves almost UK company Premier Textiles offe- entirely around the world of adver- red fabrics made from cotton, linen, tising, it is hardly surprising that the silk and viscose, all of which are al- exhibitors of printing media mainly ready pre-treated for reactive, acid, focused on advertising textiles. But and pigment printing. Krea, for example, showed a whole An important medium for digital host of innovative interior design textile printing is transfer paper for solutions as well as ideas for out- sublimation printing. French manu- door areas. Pongs revealed its texti- facturer Guyenne Papier has intro- les for rooms requiring special duced a new addition to the market, www.adf3.stoll.com acoustics, lending acoustic room which is suitable for home textiles,

7-8/2017 | textile network 11 trade fair review

Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 Trade fairs fully focused on future prospects The Frankfurt twin trade fairs, Techtextil and Texprocess, have once again lived up to their reputation as an innovation platform. 1,789 exhibitors (1,662 in 2015), special exhibitions and associated events provided deep insights into the world of technical textiles, textile production and applications.

[1] [2] The early days when Techtextil occu- pied one hall of the Frankfurt Messe exhibition site are long gone – the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and non-wovens left its childhood behind many years ago. From 9 to 12 May, Frankfurt Messe recorded some 47,500 visitors (41,826 in 2015), an increase of 13.5 percent over the previous event. Together with Texprocess, which was added several years ago and is devoted to the processing of textile and flexible materials, the Photo: Messe Frankfurt Photo: Photo: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Jean-Luc Valentin Exhibition GmbH / Jean-Luc Messe Frankfurt Photo: twin fairs now fill four halls. And [3] [4] within these four halls can be found the entire innovative force of the textile production and processing industry. The latest developments for a vast range of technical applications were waiting to be discovered at every stand in the fair. Suppliers of smart and high-tech textiles for industry, mobility, and architecture and construction were particularly

Photo: Messe Frankfurt Photo: strongly represented this year.

[6] Living in Space A major attraction, and a common

Photo: Photo: Sabine Anton-Katzenbach thread for many of the exhibitors, was the special exhibition ‘Living in [5] Space’. This was developed with the collaboration of the European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aero- space Centre (DLR) and was opened

Photo: Iris Schlomski Photo: by ESA astronaut Dr Reinhold Ewald. Dr Ewald also spoke at the opening

Photo: Photo: Sabine Anton-Katzenbach press conference, where amongst

12 textile network | 7-8/2017 [7]

“The innovative force emanating from the exhibitors threatened to overwhelm anyone who just wanted a general overview of the textile industry. They would feel as if they’d been thrown into an old proverb – unable to see the wood for the trees. Fortunately, the organisers at Frankfurt Messe provided oases for such guests with exhibi- Sabine Anton-Katzen- tions and demonstrations, national pavilions and bach other events.” Photo: Iris Schlomski Photo: other things he discussed the signifi- ed, for example, into textile shells [1] Hall 3 - Techtextil’s process, the work parameters are cance of high-performance textile for accommodation modules in heart is beating ever monitored and automatically ad- more strongly! materials in space travel. These play space and for deceleration equip- justed to maintain consistent pro- a crucial role not only in reducing ment to reduce the speed of space- [2] Textile-based pH duction quality. Display screens pro- indicators seeking cre- the weight of space capsules but al- craft as they enter planetary atmos- ative applications vide transparency for operating so in protecting the astronauts, for phere. Solar sails for a Mars mission staff with regard to activities and example through their use in space are also on the space exploration [3] Covestro has de- work tasks. The path to greater flex- veloped base materials suits. To illustrate the diversity of dif- agenda. onto which switching ibility in manufacturing and mass ferent performance options, Messe circuits can be printed production, with ever smaller batch – for example, for Frankfurt set up the ‘Living in Space’ Working at cloud level clothing carrying LED sizes, is thus becoming a reality. exhibition in Hall 6.1. Here, visitors New territory could be discovered lighting were taken on a virtual-reality jour- at the exhibition site even without When do textiles think? [4] An idea of how ney to Mars, where they could won- travelling to the moon; with the fo- buildings can function After a visit to Techtextil/Texprocess, der at the materials and products cus on Industry 4.0, however, the in the universe ... Pro- nobody could be in any doubt that suitable for use in space or draw in- action was at cloud level. Cloud and totype II textiles are becoming ever smarter. spiration from the ‘Space Habitat’, internet allow production chains to [5] Microfactory Illumination and heating, and the designed by top architect Ben van be integrated, as illustrated by the collection of vital parameters and of [6] Regina Brückner Berkel. ‘Digital Textile Micro-Factory’ that and Prof. Dr. Dr. Mess- environmental conditions, is being The cosmic theme not only thrilled was presented for the first time. The erschmidt integrated into textiles and creating the visitors but was also taken up by concept, developed by the Denken- [7] Living in Space – unforeseen application possibilities. various exhibitors, who interpreted dorf-based German Institute of Tex- special area for high- In outdoor jackets, conspicuous it in many very different ways. Ma- tile and Fibre Research and reputa- performance textile LEDs are ensuring greater visibility materials for use in chine engineers Brückner Trocken- ble companies, set out a fully net- space travel and facilitating the production of technik (from Leonberg in south- worked clothing industry. Visitors more lightweight, wearable light- west Germany), for instance, had is- could follow a single-item produc- sources (Forster Rohner). In cold or sued invitations to a presentation at tion system extending from design draughty environments, versatile their stand by Prof. Dr. Dr.-Ing Ernst through digital printing to automat- heating pads are providing a cosy Messerschmidt. The former astro- ic cutting and making up. At the warmth (Kufner Textile Group, Mu- naut, who as one of the first Ger- end, they could hold the finished nich). Sensors fitted into gloves are mans in space took part in a Space item in their hands. Veit (of Lands- used to warn of a sudden change in Shuttle mission, spoke on the sub- berg) and Prym, from Stolberg, have pH value (Amann Innovation Lab, ject ‘From space-age to everyday’ in also embarked on the process of Bönnigheim). By also using smart which he mapped out different de- networking their machines with textiles to measure pulse, heart rate velopments in space travel that other systems. For each different and blood pressure, this can help fa- opened up new value-added supply cilitate independent living. The list Advertisement chains in other sectors of the econo- of such examples gets longer and my. He cited as an example the Hy- longer every year and demonstrates drojacket, developed for firefighting that electronic textiles are ushering in space, that is required to within a new age. Techtextil offers them stand and protect the user from ex- not only an appropriate space in treme differences in temperature: in which to be presented but also an orbit, temperatures on the sun-ex- innovative environment in which the posed side reach 150°C, whereas in creative ideas of tomorrow are born. the shade they fall to -150°C. In a This is one of the many reasons why glimpse of the future, he highlighted a visit to the twin Frankfurt fairs will further applications for technical www.adf3.stoll.com more than pay for itself. textiles. Research is being conduct- [Sabine Anton-Katzenbach]

7-8/2017 | textile network 13 [1] [2] [3] Photo: Messe Frankfurt Photo:

Pho Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 to: Messe Frankfurt Photo: Forster Rohner Forster Photo: A young perspective How is the Techtextil/Texprocess received by the younger generation? textile network asked the young Berlin trend agency Sogush, aka Olivia Rudschewski and Susanne Berngruber, to explore the trade fair and let us know what they thought.

The unanimous verdict: “It’s a perfect Board replaces the traditional ana- [1] State secretary Dirk on was intricately and interactively place for networking, meeting diffe- logue mood board and seamlessly Wiese (on the right) conceptualised and realised. with the winners of rent people from different sectors, ex- connects product development and the Texprocess Innova- changing ideas, getting inspired, 3D visualisation with data from PLM tion Awards 2017. In Hall 6 – wholly impressive addition to the spotting new trends and also seeing systems. This allows for a streamlined Awards, the winners Particularly memorable was the exhi- how exhibitors approach the challen- process of quickly finding the right were also presented bition of finishing machines and sys- ge of product presentation at fairs.” prototype and making important de- with a year’s free tems in Hall 6. At first glance, one subscription to textile Continuing, they stated: “The one cisions based on a digital model wit- network could be forgiven for thinking there thing that immediately caught our at- hout having to sew a single piece of was nothing new on show. However, [2] DDL-9000C by Juki tention was the contrast of mostly material. – adjusting and saving closer inspection revealed technolo- elegantly dressed men in suits and The Digital Show Room overcomes thread tension and gical improvements in efficiency, qua- young fashionable women with a geographical boundaries and provi- stitch length via lity and productivity. touchscreen directly flair of fashion school. It’s quite extra- des a digital space for people colla- on the machine In some machines, these improve- ordinary how many students the fair boratively planning, reviewing and ments and innovations are so clever, [3] Innovation dressed seems to attract, judging from the perfecting next season’s collection. to impress: Forster they are almost hidden to the naked surprising number of young faces we 3D glasses make it possible to virtu- Rohner Textile Inno eye and until explained by an expert. saw. Many came to gather informati- ally fit and display finished designs vation The Veit Group, for example, reintro- on and learn about the industry.” on 3D models – anywhere in the duced their optimised shirt finisher world. with a new and extended set of func- Digitalisation is omnipresent tions providing an even more refined The textile and apparel industry has Cosmic inspiration from outer finishing quality. Similarly, Veit’s blo- arrived in the digital age with both space wer topper improves form and flexi- feet and is taking full advantage of it. A lot of excitement revolved around bility of trousers. In addition to pant From digital textile printing and digi- the special exhibition “Living in finishing, the generation of pressing tal coating technologies to fully digi- Space” displaying a wide range of machines also achieves high-quality talised production processes – the technical textile applications for results with men’s and women’s ou- textile industry is undoubtedly emb- possible uses in aerospace. It racing digitalisation as was reflected was organised in collabora- in the new trends and developments. tion with the European As a special event, the fair even inclu- Space Agency (ESA) and ded a live demonstration of a comple- the German Aerospace Center tely digitalised production chain. (DLR). Products covered every as- The Human Solutions Group show- pect essential for life in cased the already far-reaching possi- space, from ultra-light and bilities of digital applications. Two robust architecture and ex- Veit Photo: particular highlights included the Di- emplary implementations for Innovation for the gital Fashion Board and the Digital space transportation to high-tech double take – the new 8326 shirt finisher by Show Room. The Digital Fashion clothing for astronauts. The exhibiti- Veit

14 textile network | 7-8/2017 [4] [5] Photo: Human Solutions Photo:

[6] Photo: textile network Photo: Vincent Keiner The Photography Photo:

terwear while being extremely effici- system for industrial production won [4] Sogush came to ticularly important for visitors, even ent and easy to operate. the award for “new process”. The the Texprocess and if it is as simple as an eye-catching Techtextil fairs after system is able to monitor the pro- being invited to a pan- pattern to attract people’s attention. World firsts in Hall 5 ductivity and status of a network of el discussion organ- Foster Rohner Textile Innovation is a ised by textile network Hall 5 presented a number of sewing up to 1,500 sewing machines and in cooperation with model example here. They clearly machine innovations. Pfaff, for in- provides real-time data, amongst the VDMD. Pictured communicate their message with no stance, introduced the world’s first other functions. here: the interviewees room for ambiguity: they are into e- on wednesday after- “curved version” waistband machi- Looking at the Texprocess and noon and panel mem- broidery technology and the fusion ne especially designed for fashiona- Techtextil programme, including fo- bers. of light and fabrics.

ble women’s jeans, now able to rums, panel discussions and the to- [5] The Digital Fashion Another way to draw attention is co- handle both straight and curved pics covered by them, as well as the Board is the next gen- lour. The Japanese corporation Haso seam sections. At the heart of this demand and interest demonstrated eration mood board (Hall 6, Stand A62), for example, pre- new machine is an innovative puller by visitors, it has become obvious [6] Susanne Berngru- sented an entire collection to adver- system combined with an intelligent once again, how much fair visitors ber (on the left) und tise their Micro Fin Dry textiles. Using Olivia Rudschewski software programme. The different value real-life networking opportu- (on the right) are to- this extremely lightweight thermal sewing sequences (straight and cur- nities beyond online connections. gether Sogush textile, providing warmth in winter ved) can be selected with a knee and coolness in summer, Haso has switch. Pfaff’s “curved version” thus Our verdict designed an underwear and sports- makes it possible to create perfectly A few exhibitors left some room for wear collection in pastel colours. A shaped waistbands in one single aesthetic improvement when it co- true show-stopper that has everyone process with one single machine. mes to product display. Especially wanting to touch and learn about Equally impressive were the pro- considering the technical nature of their products. ducts selected for the Texprocess In- their otherwise very interesting in- It is the simple things like colours, novation Awards 2017. The four win- novations, visual presentation is par- unusual patterns or interactive expe- ners chosen by an expert panel were riences that attract visitors and stick showcased at a dedicated exhibiti- “We’re here at the Texprocess and Techtextil fairs in their minds – ultimately influenci- on. The prize for “new technology” because we were invited to a panel discussion or- ng a brand’s or company’s success. went to the Swedish company Colo- ganised by textile network in cooperation with What stuck with us: We are surprised reel for its ground-breaking ap- the VDMD. In preparation for our talk we were and very impressed with the scope proach that enables the dyeing of a asked what we associate with the term technical of technical textiles and the role they white ground thread during the em- textiles. The first thing that comes to mind is the play in smart textiles and design so- broidery process, creating unique sports industry, which has embraced the advanta- lutions – even if their use is subtle – and colourful results. ges of smart textiles. The entire exercise and from fabrics with integrated audio Joint prize winner was Juki’s debut sportswear sector, especially regarding footwear/ sensors and temperature regulating sewing machine featuring a touch- trainers, has dramatically changed over the last surfaces to 3D visualisation. Techni- screen and/or corresponding app for 15 years. Secondly, we also think about the con- cal textiles serve as catalysts, allow adjusting and saving settings such nection between technical textiles and environ- for process optimisations and high- as thread tension and stitch length. mental sustainability. Adidas, for instance, has tech process applications, which Also included in the same category launched the Parley initiative to stop using plas- would simply not be achievable was industrial sewing machine spe- tics in shoes. Using plastic waste recovered from through design and aesthetic ap- cialist Xi’an Typical Europe with its the sea in shoes, creating functional products. proaches alone. Vetron Trace, a new technology for We think this sets a great example for tackling [www.sogush.com] “pedal-less” machine operation. current sustainability and environmental issues [Olivia Rudschewski & Dürkopp Adler’s online monitoring with smart textiles.” Susanne Berngruber]

7-8/2017 | textile network 15 trade fair review

e lin ro b m E : to o Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 h P Huge interest in embroidery Embroidery is currently highly fashionable and the industry is therefore booming. Interest in the innovations exhibited by manufacturers of embroidery machines, yarns and accessories at the twin trade fairs Texprocess/ Techtextil 2017 was palpably higher than ever.

JGW0100 technology berg allows exciting visual effects to from ZSK (carbon be produced with embroidery – in fibres) achieving gradations of colour, for example, that are difficult to produce at present. For this purpose, a white polyester base thread is coloured on the embroidery machine itself in the widest range of colours, opening up completely new options in terms of logistics and design. Another magnet for attracting the public was the embroidered art and charity project ‘Gardening the Future’, created by ZSK from Krefeld, Germany, and Er- cigoj Art from Slovenia. The 1911 painting ‘Blue Horse 1’ by the expres-

Photo: Reiner Knochel Photo: sionist Franz Marc was reinterpreted in embroidery by Ercigoj Art. Digitisa- Anyone who is anyone in the textile broidery, the focus at both trade fairs tion of the pattern alone required and clothing industry was gathering fell on two particular areas. The first several months, before the picture information in Frankfurt about new was ‘smart embroidery’ – that is, could be embroidered for the first ways of embroidering and embellish- ways of using embroidery to produce time in 41 colours and with over a ing all kinds of textiles and materials. light, to conduct a current or to at- Alongside embroidery businesses, it tract attention or offer a functional was brand producers, designers and benefit in some other way. The sec- All of the important manufacturers of emb- product developers who were in- ond was a focus on the topic of ‘mass roidery machines, software, yarns and acces- creasingly to be found at the stands customisation’, meaning opportuni- sories presented their innovations in Frankfurt. – and not only from the clothing in- ties for mass production tailored to dustry but also from the automotive, individual customers, which is seeing million stitches. The glow of the vis- sports and medical sectors. Presenta- ever increasing levels of demand in cose embroidery yarn that was used, tions of embroidery machines were the fields of embroidery and textile and the stitches punched laboriously not limited to a single hall or to just finishing. The Innovation Award was by hand, furnish the embroidered one of the fairs: some suppliers such presented at the very opening of Tex- work of art with depth and grace as ZSK and Tajima (Filacon) had process and here, too, one of the priz- from every angle. Alongside many stands both at Texprocess in Hall 6.0 es went to an eyecatching develop- more new machinery and software and at Techtextil in Hall 3.0. It was a ment from the world of embroidery. developments in the field of single- logistical master stroke both for the The ‘Embroline by Coloreel’ system and multi-head embroidery, ZSK also exhibitors and for the visitors. In em- invented in Sweden by Joakim Sta- vividly demonstrated, in association

16 textile network | 7-8/2017 Embroidered colour gradations with Embroline technology Photo: Smake Photo:

with Smake GmbH one to embroider the heavy materi- Smake E-Commerce CALENDAR OF EVENTS from Castrop- als, the other to perforate these ma- graphic Rauxel, the op- terials or leathers – allows a wide Milano Unica portunities that range of creative and technical de- 07/11/17 - 07/13/17 | Milan are present in the ar- sign options without warpage or www.milanounica.it ea of mass customisation. faulty positioning. The experts at Smake offer CPM – Collection Premiere customers modules tai- What’s new in yarns? Moscow lored to their requirements for their There are innovations in the field of 08/30/17 - 09/02/17 | Moscow online shopping systems, so that the embroidery yarns, too, principally in www.cpm-moscow.com individual organisational and pro- relation to technical developments. duction steps required for their em- Amann of Bönnigheim, for example, Bread and Butter 2017 broidery and print orders can be op- introduced the latest generation of by Zalando timised. silver-coated sewing and embroidery 09/01/17 - 09/03/17 | Berlin yarns with its Silver-tech 120 pro- www.breadandbutter.com Innovations to delight duct. This specialist thread has appli- In PulseID, Pulse Microsystems cations in smart textiles, anti-bacteri- Munich Fabric Start offers a hands-free solution that al textiles and in textiles with electro- 09/05/17 - 09/07/17 | Munich works within seconds for mass per- static conductivity properties. www.munichfabricstart.com sonalisation, using the customer’s Another supplier of conductive yarns Techtextil India existing ordering system. PulseID is is Imbut, based in Greiz. In collabora- 09/13/17 - 09/15/17 | Mumbai designed to save time and money tion with the Institute for Special Tex- www.techtextil-india.in.messefrank- and to prevent manual errors. A pat- tiles and Flexible materials (TITV furt.com tern is read in with a barcode; then, Greiz) it has developed Elitex, a high- using automatic colour and needle ly conductive polyamide yarn with a 56. Chemiefasertagung assignment, it is faultlessly allocated coating of pure silver. The yarn is Dornbirn-MFC to the correct machine. available in different gauges and de- 09/13/17 - 09/15/17 | Dornbirn With the Fortron F 8154, Stickma- signs including insulated yarns and www.dornbirn-mfc.com schine.de is also offering a ‘persona- elastic yarn for various applications lised mass production’ solution. This in embroidery, weaving and knitting. Première Vision Paris machine works with 54 needles (and Coinciding neatly with its 90th anni- 09/19/17 - 09/21/17 | Paris hence colours) with automatic colour versary, Gunold presented ‘Cry’, a www.premierevision.com assignment, and is thus highly suited highly innovative reflective yarn. It is to linking with online shops. available in two thicknesses and is Composites Europe Amongst the products demonstrated suitable both for embroidery and for 09/19/17 - 09/21/17 | Stuttgart by Tajima was the newest generation decorative seams. www.composites-europe.com of laser bridges from Italian manu- Now it can only be hoped that the facturer Seit. Highly precise combi- upward trend in the textile and emb- FILO – Int. Fachmesse für Web- und Wirkgarne nations of embroidery and laser roidery sector continues; already, ma- technology become possible, as does ny take an optimistic view of the fu- 09/27/17 - 09/28/17 | Milan the ability to laser several layers of a ture and are excited to see what will www.filo.it wide range of materials – without develop from the ideas presented in A+A causing damage to the other layers. Frankfurt. 10/17/17 - 10/20/17 | Dusseldorf This precision impressed many visi- [Reiner Knochel] www.aplusa.de tors not only from the fashion industry but also from the automotive sec- Internet addresses of companies mentioned 32. Hofer Vliesstofftage tor. For these target groups in parti- in the article: 11/08/17 - 11/09/17 | Hof cular, and for other applications www.tajima.de | www.zsk.de | www.coloreel.com | www.hofer-vliesstofftage.de using leather, Alcantara or similarly www.ercigojart.com | www.smake.company | demanding materials, the ‘PAX se- www.pulsemicro.com | www.stickmaschine.de | Int. Conference on Textile ries’ from Tajima, in collaboration www.seitelettronica.it | www.tajima.com | Coating and Laminating with the Italian studio Auriga, will www.studioauriga.it | www.frti.ch | 11/08/17 - 11/09/17 | Berlin undoubtedly be of interest. A combi- www.amann.com | www.imbut.de | www.gunold.de www.intnews.com/TCL nation of two multi-needle heads –

7-8/2017 | textile network 17 Since 1992, Oeko-Tex has “Toxic substances in the Reportfollowed its own, timeless wardrobe” – in the early mission of supporting com- 1990s, the textile industry panies in the implementa acknowledged the need to tion of greater sustainability change its approach to chemicals Photo: © Damircrudic / Getty Images Photo: Alstyne / EyeEm Getty Images Winona van © Photo:

Jubilee 25 years of Oeko-Tex “Confidence“ is timeless and one of the most important factors in making buying decisions. Just in time for its 25th anniversary, the Oeko-Tex Association launched the „Confidence 2025“ campaign, which expresses the meaning of the Oeko-Tex System at an international level. Its mission is to build trust in products and companies in the textile industry and, in the future, also in the leather goods sector.

Oeko-Tex realigned its brand image A quarter of a century of textile tes- our following review and outlook, at the end of 2016 – since then the ting expertise and independence: we summarise the most important umbrella brand has been Oeko-Tex. Oeko-Tex Standard Oeko-Tex enables both companies milestones in the success story of The aim is to continue to strengthen 1000 for production along the textile value creation Oeko-Tex. If you would like to find facilities working in a this in the future and to build on the sustainably, environ- chain and consumers to make res- out more about sustainability and trust which has developed over a mentally and socially ponsible decisions to save our pla- Oeko-Tex, we recommend the responsible manner quarter of a century. Since 1992, (from 1996) net – and this has been the case for Oeko-Tex website and our online Oeko-Tex has followed its own, anaged,environmental the past 25 years. Time to reflect: In magazine. timeless mission of supporting companies in the implementation of greater sustainability and offering consumers reliable guidance when making their purchasing decisions. The topics, social demands, and even the definition of respon- sibly-aware operations, are forever changing – but the need to be a pioneer remains. In the future the Oeko-Tex Association will set itself the task of responding to the coming challenges in the textile and leather industry. Regardless of the direction in which the industry develops in the next 25 years, Oeko- Tex will be by the side of companies along the textile chain and provide advice and assistance as well as independent expertise. © Lane Oatey / Blue Jean Images Getty Photo:

18 textile network | 7-8/2017 special

The 1990s: Oeko-Tex grows as an association and in the market In the years following 1992, more and more independent textile testing institutes join Oeko-Tex: in the first year of its existence alone,it welcomes Testex (Switzerland), Centexbel (Bel- gium), IFTH (France), DTI (Denmark) and Swerea (Sweden). In 1996 two further certification systems follow: with the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, B2B certification is available for production facilities working in a sustainably managed, environmentally and socially responsible manner. With certification as per the Oeko-Tex Standard 100plus, a label can be granted with which products can be recognised for being manufactured sustainably as per Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 and also for being tested for harmful substances in a human-ecological manner as per Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex. Oeko-Tex thus recognises the topic of sustainability as a future-focused area very early on. The Association is thus ahead of its time: initially, the market does not take up these two labels to the extent required as the standards are very demanding for many companies.

Toxic clothing In the early 1990s, Stern, Spiegel and other newspapers run articles with titles such as “Allergierisiko Textilien” [allergy-risk textiles], “Gift in Kleidern” [toxic clothing] and “Öko-Label im Gespräch” [eco label under discussion]. It is a time in which 1992 the topic of irritants is omnipresent in the media, whether relating to food, rain, or clothing. This gives the impression that all textiles and apparel are bad and dangerous. The manufactu- The pioneer in human-ecological textile ring textile industry is under enormous pressure. The experts testing and effective consumer protection is from the Austrian Textile Research Institute (ÖTI) and the Ger- founded man research institute Hohenstein recognise this too. Compa- nies who already have their textiles tested for various harmful In 1992, the International Association for Research and Testing substances by one of these institutes do not actually have the in the Field of Textile Ecology, in short Oeko-Tex is establis- opportunity to demonstrate these efforts externally and to con- hed. And so the Oeko-Tex success story takes its course. The sumers. In numerous meetings between the ÖTI and Hohen- product certification Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex (until autumn stein, the idea was forming that a common, standardised and 2016, known as: Oeko-Tex Standard 100) is the first Oeko-Tex global label could be created for the monitoring of textiles, product on the market – and would become the most well- clothing and accessory materials which indicated to the end known Oeko-Tex label. It is issued for all types of textiles and consumer that: this product been tested for harmful substances clothing accessory materials that are successfully tested in and offers high-level and effective product safety with respect accordance with the human-ecological criteria of the standard. to chemical substances that are harmful to health. If the content, for example, of prohibited colorants, pesticides, formaldehyde or heavy metals is below specific, strictly defined threshold values, the item of clothing or bedding is given this label and it is clearly visible. The test criteria and valid threshold values have a scientific basis and are modified, or if

Photo: fotolia Photo: necessary, tightened, at least once a year or as required. Oeko- Tex thus makes the first fashion brands and suppliers of home textiles who receive this certification early pioneers of product safety.

The 1990s The 1990s are characterised by buzzwords such as Generation X and Generation Golf. Merchandising pro- In the early 1990s the streets are filled with ducts like Tamagotchi, daily soaps, tramp stamps, new people experimenting with fashion. Meanwhile media, the internet, mobile phones and the scandalous the manufacturing textile industry is under Lewinsky affair are just some of the catchwords from enormous pressure. The topic of irritants is this eventful decade that shape our view of the world. omnipresent in the media Whereas the fashion on the catwalks is decidedly understated, the streets are filled with people experimenting with fashion. Many ready-to-wear collections evoke a feeling of understated luxury, as accentuated (Source: Modeopfer110) by the creations of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Armani and 19 Calvin Klein. special

2000s The daily lives of people in the industrialised world are increasingly being transformed by digitalisation. Everything is speeding up, being simplified, is more exciting and everyone can always be reached everywhere. A sense of adventure fills the air. In the noughties, we all have high expectations for the future. On 11 Sep- tember 2001, an unexpected attack shakes the USA and marks the beginning of a new era for the population of the world. In fashion terms, the noughties are a fast-moving time with plenty of diversity. Designers draw on the trends of former decades and create new and wild combinations. What was already the case in the previous decade – when fashion was influenced by mu- sic genres – continues into the new millennium. Hip-Hop The Oeko-Tex tests for harmful substances are fundamentally and Metal feed into individual youth cultures and based on the respective purpose of the textiles and materials. create their very own style of dress. The more intensive the skin contact of a product and the mo- (Source: Modeopfer110) re sensitive the skin, the stricter the human-ecological requi-

rements that need to be met 2000– TBT in football shirts In 2000, tributyltin and dibutyltin are found – according to a fi- nance and consumer show, “in high concentrations” – in the shirts of a Bundesliga football club – the manufacturer is a well-known producer of sports articles. Tributyltin, more com- 2009 monly known by the abbreviation TBT, kills plants, animals and microbes in high concentrations and is usually used for ship's From pioneer to international paint – as protection against algae, rot and corrosion. industry benchmark Karstadt, Kaufhof and Hertie remove the shirts from their shops. Alarmed by this news, further textiles are examined for This rapid reaction shows the benefit of Oeko-Tex tests for organotin compounds in the following weeks. Even though it harmful substances both for the textile industry and for con- was later found that there was no scandal as the TBT and DBT sumers compared with statutory specifications: as a testing contamination of the shirts had been greatly exaggerated and association of independent institutes, Oeko-Tex can react to was only just above the detection limit possible for analysis, current market developments and findings very quickly and the Oeko-Tex Association includes the parameter “organotin with no bureaucracy. For many criteria and requirements rela- compounds” in the Standard 100 testing system just two ting to testing textiles for harmful substances, Oeko-Tex sets months after these incidents. There is an unanimous opinion standards in accordance with the Standard 100 and, still today, that substances such as TBT or DBT do not belong in textiles takes on a pioneering role. In contrast, the process of develo- and accessory materials and must be regulated and tested ac- ping and implementing statutory specifications can often take cordingly with strict limit values. many years before they can finally take effect and be used – usually with the inclusion of transition periods.

2010s The 2010s have so far seen the re- TBT in sports shirts? One vival of austerity-era period pieces, of the most toxic chemicals humans have expo- hipster and alternative fashions, 1980s-ins- Photo: fotolia Photo: During this time, the Stan- sed to the environment pired neon colours, from 2012 to 2017, unisex dard 100 establishes itself has no place in textiles early 1990s-style elements influenced by grunge as a global standard for tex- and skater fashions. In the early 2010s (2010-2012), tiles tested for harmful substances. Even though some many of the fashions of the mid to late noughties live on companies in the textile industry do not actively participa- in Europe, the USA, South America, Australia and East Asia, te in the Oeko-Tex certification system, compliance with above all the indie pop look, reflecting elements from the seven- the Standard 100 is required by countless brands and re- ties, the counter-culture of the sixties and contemporary alternative tailers in their procurement and delivery conditions. fashion. Popular global fashion brands of this decade include: Forever 21, Topshop, Topman, Uniqlo, Christian Dior, Hollister, Abercrombie and Fitch, Ben Sherman, Lacoste, Penshoppe, Bench, H & M, Neun West, Kashieca, Mensch, Burberry (above all in China from 2010-15), Monsoon, River Island, Doro- (Source: wiki/ 2010s in fashion) thy Perkins, Trainer, Marks and Spencer, Hugo Boss and Alberto. 20 textile network | 7-8/2017

The path to sustainable textiles In the spring of 2011, associations for sports articles and shoe manufacturers, retailers and trade associations join together to form the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) – a non-profit organisation with the goal of establishing a consistent standard for the evaluation of sustainability in the clothing, home textiles and shoe industries. The members now include Adidas, C&A, Ecco, Esprit, H&M, Levi’s, Nike, Primark and the WWF, amongst 2012 others. 20th anniversary In 2012, on the occasion of its 20th anniversary, the Oeko-Tex Association launches the “Compa-

Photo: © Anne-Sophie Bost / PhotoAlto Getty Images © Photo: ny of the Month“ campaign. Almost 10,000 companies around the world can apply if they have their products and/or production conditions certified in accordance with the The answer is Step Oeko-Tex requirements. The goal of the campaign is to show 2011 the public that numerous companies in the textile chain take The Higg Index developed by the SAC gives the companies a their responsibility for their manufactured products, the environ- standard scoring model to evaluate the sustainability of the ment and their employees very seriously and act in a sustainable products from the raw materials to their disposal and to iden- way. From the incoming applications, an Oeko-Tex jury selects tify areas in which further optimisations are necessary – a real one company each month and publishes a detailed company innovation in the textile industry. portrait on a special campaign website. All companies selec- The Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, which is still in existence in 2010, ted for Company of the Month are automatically included does not yet offer any scoring of this type. The integrated con- in the selection for the Oeko-Tex Sustainability Award sideration of all company areas from production facilities (envi- which was first presented in June 2013. ronmental management, environmental performance, social responsibility, chemicals management, health and safety, quality management) and the goal of continual improvement of the achieved sustainability solution are indeed included implicitly but are not yet specifically formulated and communicated. The Oeko-Tex Association recognises this potential for improvement and develops the new Step by Oeko-Tex certification (Step = Sustainable Textile Production) for production facilities which is Low point Rana Plaza based on the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000. The Step by Oeko-Tex certification thus introduces scoring of this type to the Oeko- On 24 April 2013, a nine-storey commercial building called Ra- Tex portfolio. na Plaza collapsed near the capital of Dhaka in Bangladesh. It also accommodated five textile factories. The accident cost 1,138 people their lives and over 2,000 people were injured even though cracks in the building had been discovered a day earlier and access had been blocked by the police. The collapse of the building complex brought to light in a particularly tragic way the desolate working and safety conditions in these textile factories. Further research carried out in the textile, clothing and shoe industries around the world shows that this area is often still in a terrible mess. However, there are also many companies who are already very advanced and innovative in this regard. Photo: © Squaredpixels / Getty Images Photo:

Scoring: Transparency from the beginning 2013 More health and safety and social working conditions With the Step by Oeko-Tex certification system, an up-to-date 2010s issue of this certificate for environmentally and socially responsible production facilities has been available to the textile The 2010s have so far seen the re- chain since July 2013. Amongst other things, Step requires that vival of austerity-era period pieces, production facilities apply extensive social criteria and comply hipster and alternative fashions, 1980s-ins- with the necessary safety regulations in the workplace, but al- pired neon colours, from 2012 to 2017, unisex so highlights all other company areas that are necessary for a early 1990s-style elements influenced by grunge comprehensive and objective sustainability assessment. The and skater fashions. In the early 2010s (2010-2012), extent to which a company already works in a sustainable many of the fashions of the mid to late noughties live on manner is shown in a clear and transparent way on the certifi- in Europe, the USA, South America, Australia and East Asia, cate by means of a three-level scoring system. above all the indie pop look, reflecting elements from the seven- ties, the counter-culture of the sixties and contemporary alternative fashion. Popular global fashion brands of this decade include: Forever 21, Topshop, Topman, Uniqlo, Christian Dior, Hollister, Abercrombie and Fitch, Ben Sherman, Lacoste, Penshoppe, Bench, H & M, Neun West, Kashieca, Mensch, Burberry (above all in China from 2010-15), Monsoon, River Island, Doro- (Source: wiki/ 2010s in fashion) thy Perkins, Trainer, Marks and Spencer, Hugo Boss and Alberto. 7-8/2017 | textile network 21 special

Moving with the times: the Oeko-Tex Association currently offers seven different kinds of certification

Oeko-Tex Sustainability Awards With the presentation of the Oeko-Tex Sustainability Award at the end of June 2013, the Oeko-Tex Association draws attention and raises awareness within the textile industry and the general public that, in spite of negative examples such as Rana Plaza, there are numerous companies along the textile value creation chain who implement their responsibility for their products, employees, and the environment in an exemplary manner through outstanding sustainable actions in their daily production. The non-monetary prize 2013 was awarded to the following companies in five categories: • Sung Hing Industries Holding Limited, China (environmental management) • Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG, Germany (social responsibility) 2015 • Veramtex S.A., Belgium (safety management) 150,000 Standard 100 by • YKK Corporation, Japan (quality management) • Lenzing AG, Austria (product innovation) Oeko-Tex certificates issued On 30 June 2015, Oeko-Tex General Secretary Georg Die- ners and Robert Löcker, Managing Director of the ÖTI – Insti- tute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation (Vienna) issued the 150,000th Standard 100 certificate to the Austrian embroiderer Ernst Böhler GmbH. The family company from the Vorarlberg region manufactures high-quality embroidered products for the home textile and fashion sector and since 2004, has had its products tested for harmful substances by the ÖTI in Vienna. “We are pleased that we can share this success with Ernst Böhler today,“ recounts Georg Dieners at the presentation of the certificate at the production facility in Lustenau. “The high levels of approval and its prevalence along the textile va- Establishment of the Partnership for lue creation chain clarify that the Standard 100 has a practical use Sustainable Textiles for companies and that it provides optimum support in important areas – for example, as a model in operational quality In autumn 2014, the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles is assurance, but also in communication or in marketing to founded as an initiative of the German Development Minister, business customers and end users,“ continues Gerd Müller. The members of the partnership work together for Dieners. more sustainable production conditions in the textile industry. In addition to companies, the members also include non- governmental organisations, associations, unions, federal mi- nistries and scientific institutions and organisations who develop standards for the textile industry. The common goal: social, ecological and economic improvements along the textile supply chain. The idea behind it: many members can achieve something together where a single company or organisation may fail. They can use local synergies, learn from each other and together achieve better framework conditions in the production 2014 countries. Active support Oeko-Tex actively supports the textile partnership from the outset through cooperation in working groups and has been a member since 2015. In contrast to German Development Minis- ter Müller, however, Oeko-Tex is of the opinion that there are already sufficient solutions for the required product label and the implementation of greater transparency and social responsibility along the textile chain – e.g. Step certification or the

Photo: Textilbündnis/T.Ecke Photo: Made in Green label.

More transparency for consumers

Dr. Gerd Müller, Develop- and tailored solutions for industry ment Minister, 2015 in and trade. Berlin

22 textile network | 7-8/2017 Photo: Christ Photo:

2017 Further label “Leather Standard by Oeko-Tex“ In keeping with the claim of offering the consumer reliable guidance and consumer protection against harmful substances for as many products available in retail outlets as possible, Oeko- Tex launched a further label in January 2017. The Leather Standard by Oeko-Tex is awarded to leather goods of all types such as jackets, bags or belts which have been tested for harmful substances and which meet the strict requirements of the standard. At the same time, with the current Oeko-Tex system, companies in the textile industry have a tailored and very practical toolbox which they can draw on to meet the growing requirements in the area of sustainability at a global level. Oeko-Tex enables responsible and transparent chemicals management, provides support in the monitoring and optimisation of environmentally friendly production processes and in the establishment of fair and safe working conditions, and permits clear communication to the end customer with regard to proof of their own product responsibility.

And what will be in 2018? The spirit of the times has changed recently: Fair trade has developed from a niche area to a trend topic. Environmental awareness has increased significantly, even for textiles. Today demanding end consumers are questioning the sustainability of products more than ever before. Oeko-Tex's answer is the Ma- de in Green by Oeko-Tex product label. Introduced in April 2015, this label identifies textiles that are manufactured under environmentally friendly and socially fair working conditions in accordance with “Step by Oeko-Tex“ and which have been tested for harmful substances in accordance with Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex. The label is a great success: the Swiss lingerie company Calida is one of the first brands to use this label and end consumers can now easily see that it is a trendsetter in matters of sustainability. More companies are expected to follow in 2018. Photo: © Eric Audras / Getty Images © Eric Photo:

Future Fair trade has developed from a niche area to a trend topic. End consumers are wanting more and more sustainable products

Georg Dieners has been steering the fortunes of the Oeko-Tex Association for the past two years. The German-born expert set aside a ge- nerous portion of his time to speak to textile Photo: Oeko-Tex Photo: network and to answer our questions on the environment and sustainability. His views on whether our planet can still be saved and the fundamental changes that need to be made in the textile world are www.textile-network.com featured in our online magazine.

7-8/2017 | textile network 23 Technical Textiles Sourcing in China? The Middle Kingdom, as China is sometimes known, is coming into ever sharper focus as a production site for high-technology products. An undergraduate dissertation, ”Analysis of industry structure, taking technical textiles in the Chinese textile market as an example“, tackles the question of whether China is an interesting source market for technical textiles, from the point of view of a German business. At the forefront of this is the extent of backward integration.

Summary of findings Extent of savings potential the strengths are first weighted Following the ending of quotas, Costs in China are substantially lo- (see Fig. 3), using the 'Harvey balls' China's external trade policy has de- wer than in Europe, and are thus system as a visual representation of veloped in a very attractive way, due highly attractive. Moreover, the the results: the fuller the circle, the to close cooperation. Yet there is still quality meets the requirements and more attractive that strength is (see more to do. Trained staff are availa- is therefore similarly attractive. Re- Fig. 4). Protection of intellectual ble, although there is enormous liability of supply and in particular rights has improved, particularly competition for them. Given the flexibility are high, because the en- since China's accession to the WTO. quantities available at low cost, ac- tire textile supply chain is available; Even so, legal certainty as it exists cess to raw materials is unbeatable. the potential for savings is therefo- in Germany cannot be presumed In the field of technology, no other re correspondingly high. To illustra- and protection remains a major country at present is attacking te the findings more convincingly, challenge even today. It is worth Europe's dominance so effectively. bearing in mind, however, that the- Infrastructure on the whole is good, re is a risk of forgery even when bu- though still highly variable. Certifi- ying from Europe. cation is readily achievable and thus The dissertation builds on the basic design of the similarly attractive. 'Five Forces Model' developed by Michael E. Por- Recommendations The cultures across China are very ter. On this model, there are five forces that affect The dominance of Chinese fibre different; they are certainly cross- the attractiveness of a market. The model is desig- producers makes it imperative to compatible but it is important to be ned to inform the decision on how to enter that buy fibre from China. Indeed, the aware of the differences, in order to market. This dissertation, however, tackles the ex- marked increase in quality and re- avoid conflicts and inefficiencies. act counterpart of this, namely sourcing. Here the cent experience suggests that buy- The market power of the purchaser aim is to determine whether a market is attractive ing even the finished product ma- is equivocal: widespread opportuni- as a buying source and if it is, to derive a sourcing kes sense. It is important, though, ty for substitution balances out the strategy. For this purpose, Porter's model has been to take steps to secure the ap- high degree of dependency, so that modified. Six forces are at work here: export-ori- propriate level of quality (TQM). buying power is neither particularly entated foreign trade policy, access to resources, To be successful, cultural cha- great nor negligible. Among sup- compatibility of cultures, market power of the racteristics and peculiarities have purchasers, market power of the suppliers and sa- pliers, it is the fibre producers that to be taken into account. vings potential. In summary, the model can be vi- hold the greatest power in the mar- Supplier integration is important, in sualised thus: the stronger the green forces are ket but this is true across the world. order to guarantee low costs, good and the weaker the red, the more attractive the Overall, the market power of custo- quality and a high degree of reliabi- market is as a buying source. mers is to a large extent balanced lity of supply over the long term. An out by that of the suppliers. empirical study has demonstrated

24 textile network | 7-8/2017 Shanghai at night technical textiles

Access to resources

Market power Marketpower of the of the suppliers purchasers Savings potential

Compatibility Export orien- of cultures ted foreign For the sourcing strat- trade policy egy the Porter´s model Photo: pixabay Photo: has been modified the link between success and sup- ken. Strong regional differences factor that must be taken into ac- plier integration. In China, a count- mean that the attractiveness of the count. ry where harmony is expected, a co- market as a buying source will vary Taken as a whole, the risks must not operation agreement would appear enormously. This dissertation was be underestimated. The danger of to be essential. Overall, attractiven- able only to touch on these aspects. passing up an association with an ess in all six forces can be improved And the complexity of the tasks in- attractive source market is signifi- through integration. It is vital to ha- Malte Krautwald Photo: volved must not be underestimated cantly higher than the risks that it ve a representation office in the – this is where many businesses poses. The margins available, which country staffed by an employee of come to grief. Good planning and are still high, should be used to build the company who understands the execution, therefore, are absolutely a Chinese supplier into a purchasing business culture and philosophy, essential. It is worth noting in this source: this is where the pioneering the product portfolio and the respect that implementing a TQM advantages lie, since it seems inevi- company's business goals. The aim plan requires a lot of time as well as table that China will be producing should be a comprehensive supply cost. The geographical time diffe- ever greater volumes of technical chain management plan, since the- rence, which is a significant cons- textiles in the near future. re are few industries in which there traint on communication, is another [Malte Krautwald] is such wide variation between pro- Malte Krautwald ducts and versions in terms of price, quality, delivery times, availability and being up-to-date. Areas deserving criticism include the significance of each party's bar- gaining power (little relevant litera- ture), cultural compatibility (regional differences) and the absence of a risk analysis (e.g. exchange rates, energy price changes, implementation of new environmental protec- PASSION FOR tion laws). According to the study, FASHION there are countless additional China: In the field of powered by Hellmann Worldwide Logistics forces affecting this market. Moreo- technology, no other country at present is ver, a precise analysis of the loca- attacking Europe´s do- tions themselves must be underta- minance so effectively We are your partner for the global fashion business along the entire supply chain and for all sales channels.

E-Mail: [email protected] www.hellmann.com Photo: adpic Photo:

7-8/2017 | textile network 25 „Any reducing in the use of plastics helps technical textiles to protect our environment. In agriculture suistanable materials should be used. This is good for us humans and for the environment,“ Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Head of Tech- nical Textiles, Lenzing

plastics. These fibers, made are much thinner than cotton from the natural raw material strings and have a higher of wood, are particularly well strength. The load capacity of suited due to their fiber profile. support strings of this kind, If used, they reduce the use of which has to be up to 80 kg de- plastics in agriculture. pending on the crop, is assured throughout the growth period 100% compostable of the plant. The fibers are pure Tencel fibers are 100 percent bi- and have no contaminants. odegradable and even 100 per- They are tested according to cent compostable. When a ma- the EU criteria for food contact terial is compostable, the nutri- use and can therefore be used ent cycle of organic materials by agriculture for food products Photo: Lenzing Photo: under the influence of atmos- without any concerns. pheric oxygen and insects in “At the moment, only several the soil breaks down the mate- products, such as support rial. Carbon dioxide is released strings, ropes and nonwovens, LENZING as are water-soluble minerals, are in use. However, Tencel fib- More sustainability in agriculture which can be used as fertilizers. ers have great potential in agri- A percentage of the intermedi- culture. Mankind faces a plas- Avoiding plastic is also in agri- son for initiatives in this field is ate products created during the tics problem if we consider that culture a topic of key impor- that 80 percent of the waste decomposition phase is con- plastic takes up to 400 years to tance. At Techtextil 2017 Lenz- polluting our seas is plastic. Ag- verted to hummus. The com- decompose,” Marina Crnoja- ing presented for the very first riculture uses 6.5 million tons postability of Tencel fibers of- Cosic, head of Technical Tex- time a botanic solution. The of plastic products per annum. fers a considerable and com- tiles, comments. “Any reduction topic of plastic has top priority This includes agricultural films, pletely natural advantage for in the use of plastics helps to on the EU’s agenda, particular- wraps under layer, silage films, agriculture. protect our environment. In ag- ly in connection with the Euro- stretch films, steel. The majority riculture in particular, sustaina- pean measures regarding the of the plastics used in agricul- Optimum stability ble materials should be used. circular economy. This gener- ture are trashed after use. The high strength of Tencel fib- This is good for us humans and ates a central starting point to With its innovations of Tencel ers enables the reduction of for the environment,” Crnoja- optimize the life cycle of plas- branded lyocell fibers, Lenzing material use, particularly with Cosic continues. tics and recycling. Another rea- is offering a solution to avoid support strings. Tencel strings [www.lenzing-fibers.com]

AMSILK Innovative Biosteel high-performance products

Amsilk GmbH, the world’s first steeped in 200 years of tradi- Gruschwitz led to an industrial industrial producer of synthetic tion, it is by no means locked in breakthrough: Rather than rely- silk biopolymers, and leading the past, but is known for its ing on specialised knitting ma-

yarn manufacturer Gruschwitz dynamism and innovative spir- chines to process Biosteel fibre, Amsilk Photo: Textilwerke AG are extending it. The company from southern the companies optimised the Amsilk is a young and dynamic company their existing three-year collab- Germany has developed, for process to make the silk biopol- with an innovative product oration in yarn development by example, a special coating ymers compatible with conven- forming a strategic partnership, technology used in extremely tional knitting machines. This foundation for the collabora- designed to pave the way for resilient off-shore ropes made resulted in the first-ever textile tion between Amsilk and Adi- further innovations in high-per- from DSM Dyneema. It also fabric to be made from synthet- das announced in November formance yarns. The two com- produces sophisticated yarns ic, biotechnologically produced 2016. Read more about the panies first joined forces in for Johnson & Johnson, a glob- silk fibres, which was nothing new partnership in our online- 2014 to further develop and al market leader in medical short of a revolution in the tex- magazine. commercialise the Biosteel fi- textiles. In 2015, the collabora- tile industry. This successful de- [www.amsilk.com] bre. Although Gruschwitz is tion between Amsilk and velopment work formed the [www.biosteel-fiber.com]

26 textile network | 7-8/2017 home textiles

Diolen Safe Yarns Lenzing Photo: LENZING AG Botanic carpets Sustainable, flame-retardant and rugs After successfully conquering the world of bed linen, Lencel and antimony-free – a lyocell fibre made by Len- zing – has set its sight on an- Sustainable materials and de- other interior essential: car- signs present a key challenge pets. in times of dwindling resourc- Traditionally, carpets are es and commodities. Sustaina- made of coarse and long fi- ble production – placing equal bres similar to wool, mean- importance on environmental, ing that the usually thin and social and economic issues – is short fibres of cellulose are a long-term vision for TWD Fi- unsuitable. Until now. Lenz- bres and its subsidiary FR ing has created a new gen- Saftey. eration of Tencel fibres that In addition to many speciality are thicker and longer than and high-quality yarns, TWD Fi- standard cellulose, specifical- bres also produces inherently ly for textile flooring. With flame-retardant polyester this novel application of Ten- yarns under the Diolen Safe cel the custom-made fibres trademark. Low-flammable also lend their unique prop- properties are permanently erties to carpets and rugs. embedded into these yarns Tencel gives carpets a par- during the spinning process, ticularly high dye affinity. Ac- meaning that they will not di- cording to Lenzing, the minish through abrasion, age- smooth surface of its fibres ing and frequent washing. and their soft and silky touch,

Thus, these yarns guarantee Messe Frankfurt Jochen Günther, Photo: also make it a highly com- long-lasting safety compared Sustainable production – placing equal importance on environmental, social and economic fortable alternative to con- to subsequently treated mate- issues is a long-term vision for TWD Fibres and its subsidiary FR Safety ventional textiles. rials. This process of directly Additionally, the fibre’s ex- embedding flame-resistant Antimony-free mattress However, there are alternative cellent moisture absorbing properties is also beneficial ticking polyester yarns free of antimo- and releasing properties can from an ecological standpoint Antimony oxide (Sb2O3) is ny, yet with identical proper- balance out fluctuations in as additional chemical applica- used as a catalyst in the pro- ties – something that TWS Fi- indoor temperature and hu- tions and pollutants can be cessing of base materials for bres has specialised in. In or- midity. Thus, moisture is pre- eliminated. Diolen Safe textiles the production of polyester fi- der to guarantee end-to-end vented from accumulating by TWD Fibres, exclusively sold bres and filament yarns world- traceability and accountability, on walls and windows, pro- through FR Safety Yarns, meet wide. Therefore often found in TWS Fibres does not source its actively protecting against all established international textiles, these antimony com- raw materials from Asia and mould. These special mois- fire regulations. They are fre- pounds can be partially dis- has instead moved its entire ture-regulating abilities im- quently certified and approved solved, especially by perspira- production chain to Europe. proving indoor climate and for their intended use by differ- tion, and absorbed through the Their in-house laboratories as hygiene are what sets Tencel ent testing laboratories. Cur- skin or inhaled. This could lead well as independent external apart from synthetic fibres. rently, Diolen Safe yarns are to irritations of the skin, eyes institutes continually monitor Another advantage of Tencel the only polyester yarns that and lungs in sensitive people. and assess the quality of and is its resistance to moths, as have passed both the tests for Polyester yarns are particularly antimony content in Diolen Hy- they feed on proteins found low-flammable yarns as well popular in mattress ticking as poallergenic yarns. in wool but not in cellulose. as the Cradle-to-Cradle (C2C) they are easy to clean, easy to [www.frsafety.de] [www.lenzing.com] standards. handle and abrasion-resistant.

7-8/2017 | textile network 27 Fairtrade cotton picker fashion in India

Fairtrade cotton Sustainable work clothing on the up Sustainability is becoming an increasingly important topic for many textile companies. Fairtrade cotton offers companies the opportunity to support small farmers in developing countries and to sell textiles with a clear conscience.

Work clothing made of Fairtrade switch: local farmers benefit first erative and more about the projects cotton helps companies to improve and foremost. They receive fair pay, that have already been realised their own sustainability balance permanent jobs and humane work- there, thanks to the Fairtrade Premi- sheet, e.g. in their sustainability re- ing conditions. The origin of the um. port, as they are committing to sus- clothing also becomes transparent. tainable procurement. Internally For instance, the wearer can enter a What does Fairtrade achieve? they can also position themselves as code to be found on the label of the Some 1.6 million small farmers work responsible employers that set great clothing on the Fairtrade website: on cotton fields and plantations store by high-quality equipment for they will then find the country of or- every day in Asia, Africa and Latin their employees. igin, the name of the farmers' coop- America to produce items of cloth-

Making sustainability visible At the start of 2016, the provider of When buying clothes, consumers rarely think about how and where they were produced. work clothing as a rental service This doesn't just apply to everyday clothes. The choice of work clothing usually depends CWS-boco switched its boco Profi on design, functionality and price alone. However, in an era of increasing company awa- Line workwear to Fairtrade cotton. reness and growing responsibility, the origin of materials is playing a more and more im- The fabric of the clothing is made up portant role. Some manufacturers of work clothing, such as CWS-boco, are implementing of polyester and 35% cotton, which a controlled supply chain for their items. “Fairtrade work clothing will gain additional is being changed with immediate ef- significance in future. Municipalities and cities are backing sustainable procurement, fect to Fairtrade cotton. The work meaning that demand will increase in this area. For skilled tradesmen, on the other clothing is primarily worn by skilled hand, the Fairtrade label on clothing is primarily about the image they convey to their tradesmen and industrial workers. customers,“ says Fatima Röse, Product Manager at CWS-boco Germany. There are many benefits to this

28 textile network | 7-8/2017 Cotton worker Sapna Mandloi at the Pratibha Fairtrade cotton farm in India Photos: Suzanne Lee Photos:

and promoted. Moreover, compli- Fairtrade cotton also protected, as the use of geneti- ance with social, ecological and farmer Sugna Jat cally modified cotton is prohibited, from India in action economic standards is regularly as are chemical fertilisers and high checked throughout the entire value volumes of water. ing. However, chain. For instance, these criteria in- although around a clude a ban on child labour and dis- Longer use of clothing third of humanity is depend- crimination, as well as the existence One option for companies looking to ent on such small farmers, they are of regulated working conditions. use clothing sustainably is a rental paid poorly and unfairly for their Sustainable and environmentally service. CWS-boco offers suitable work in most cases. friendly farming is also targeted, work clothing for countless indus- Fairtrade strengthens local organi- forbidding the use of dangerous pes- tries and areas. Company logos or sations, supports producers and ticides. The economic standards cov- staff names can be affixed to it on works to promote fair trade practic- er criteria such as the payment of request. The company makes the es. On the one hand, it is ensured fixed minimum prices and the Fair- clothing available to customers, reg- that families owning small farms trade Premium, the creation of trans- ularly collects worn items from are paid appropriate wages for their parent trading relations and proof them, washes these items and re- work. On the other, humane about the flow of goods and pairs them where required, and then working conditions for money. The organisation's returns the clean clothing. The cloth- farmers and plantation ultimate goal is to cre- ing is produced for long-term use workers are required ate a better position and is therefore very hard-wearing. for small farmers In short, companies using the rental and workers in de- service are backing the concept of veloping and emerg- reuse rather than throwing away. ing countries on the [www.cws-boco-scm.com] global market and to enable investments in cooperatives. USED MACHINERY FROM Doing good with your own work clothing “Choosing boco Profi Line supports cotton farmers and their families in India and Senegal,“ confirms Dieter Overath, Chairman of the Board at Looking for used Transfair e.V., the charitable organi- Circular Knitting machines??? sation that awards the Fairtrade Please visit our website: seal for cotton in Germany. No additional costs arise for companies; www.sotex.de they are all borne by CWS-boco. The two farmers' cooperatives from which CWS-boco gets its cotton re- SOTEX-Textilmaschinen ceive not only a fixed minimum R. Sorhagen price but also an additional premi- Egertstraße 54 · D-72768 Reutlingen Phone: +49 171 5155852 · Fax: +49 7121 621229 Photo: CWS-boco CWS-boco Photo: um that they can use for larger com- E-Mail: [email protected] Boco Profi Line is now available in Fairtrade cotton munity projects. The environment is

7-8/2017 | textile network 29 IVGT IVGT Good atmosphere at Techtextil

This year’s trade exhibition in Albstadt-Sigmaringen, Hof/ Frankfurt inspired the whole in- Münchberg, Kaiserslautern, dustry. After a 4.8 percent in- Mönchengladbach, Reutlingen, crease in foreign sales, German Zwickau and from the Universi- companies were reporting even ty of Aachen. before the trade fair a rise in Now that the subjects of smart domestic turnover of 5.5 per- textiles and sustainability have cent over the previous year. At become almost universal in the beginning of the fair, over university syllabuses, the Asso- 35 percent of textiles produ- ciation presented develop- cers, across all stages of the ments over the period from manufacturing process, were 1890 to the present day, by me- positive in their expectations ans of seven short films. Even for sales over the next six in the early days, vibrantly co- months. 52 percent of IVGT loured textiles were used for members (IVGT – Germany's advertising and display purpo- largest textile association) ex- ses. The possibilities offered by pected the situation to remain today’s e-textiles, however, go unchanged. According to a sur- way beyond that. In fields of IVGT Photo: vey of visitors by Messe Frank- application such as medical Some 430 participants from German technical universities attended the IVGT ’info-lunch’ furt, 42 percent of them rated technology and sport, in parti- the current competitive positi- cular, conductive textiles act as member firms gave presenta- table discussion with manufac- on as good. This is also suppor- sensors for measuring bodily tions on the use and finishing of turers from the Czech Republic, ted in surveys by the Federal functions, as channels for mus- these types of special yarns. Fol- more than 16 informative dis- Statistical Office, which show cular stimulation or as an ele- lowing the lunch, many stu- cussions with network partners that orders for technical texti- ment of therapy for stroke dents accepted companies’ invi- from the Russian association, a les in March were 20.1 percent victims. The second topic, susta- tations to their stands in the ex- ‘hot-spot tour’ of selected mo- higher than at the same time inability, was introduced by four hibition halls. In response to the bile technology producers, any last year. member companies using cur- positive feedback, there will be of the numerous press confe- rent and brand new develop- another ‘info-lunch’ at the rences, the get-together for rib- Future of the textile ments in non-woven fabrics. De- Frankfurt Techtextil in 2019. bon and braid producers and industry mand for recyclable and rene- the network gathering of the For the third time now, the wable raw materials has until European cooperation European Technical Textile IVGT invited students from Ger- recently been something of a An international trade fair such Club. The last of these was at- man textiles universities to an challenge for producers, since as Techtextil always also offers tended this time by 110 manu- informative lunch event during the primary concern with tech- the possibility of meeting old facturers from Belgium, Germa- Techtextil. The room in Hall 4.2, nical textiles is functional capa- contacts and even getting to ny, France and Italy. All activi- made available free of charge bility. Two producers of filament know new ones. IVGT members ties were united under the ban- by the fair organisers, rapidly yarns presented their latest de- took every opportunity to do ner: IVGT – the textile industry filled up with over 430 attende- velopments, which meet both so. The wide range of such op- network. es from technical universities in requirements, and two other portunities included a round- [www.ivgt.de] textile technology

The role model of Roboskop was the eagle. It manages to maintain an enormous area in its field of vision at a height of more than a kilometre and at the same time focus on a small mouse down Zünd on the ground TECHTEXTIL 2017 The target: Batch size 1 Robotex Product Development and Quality Inspection, everyone Manufacturers are adapting lization achieved by using substitute employees has experienced the paradox their manufacturing processes König+Neurath with the multi- during scheduled breaks to en- for themselves: If you have to to single batch runs. Yet the layer cutter was ineffective at sure that the Zünd Cutter look for small details (such as costs for single unit production best. The goal for the new sing- keeps working, even during material defects) in a large are expected to be very close to le-layer cutter was to achieve breaks.“ area with a magnifying glass the price point of serial produc- an optimization of 10 to 15 or microscope, you quickly lo- tion. This requires the use of the percent and thus reduce scrap Digital into the economic se track of time and incur a most modern, digital produc- material. "We have clearly im- future loss of accuracy. tion tools, combined with a proved our fabric utilization As Selbach sees it, the continu- With Roboskop by Robomat highly efficient production and we still have some head- ed digitalization of production the search for a material de- workflow. At the same time, all room," states Thomas Selbach, is the only way to financial suc- fect in textile materials is parts and production data must Head of Production for chairs. cess in the future: “The bene- now more efficient. The solu- be transparent and be able to In addition to a significant in- fits of digital cutting are appa- tion is based on the combina- be tracked consistently crease in effectiveness, it was rent in the visualization inter- tion of the fastest and most throughout the entire produc- also the stated goal of face on the cutter monitor alo- powerful tablet using Win- tion process. König+Neurath to automate ne. It displays the nested cut dows and high grade digital A critical step in the production cutting as much as possible parts in a single overview.“ The cameras with the highest re- of an office chair is the cutting and integrate it into a digital cuts are already being created solution. Image recognition of fabric. König+Neurath upda- workflow. The system should in the engineering department. software, a light box and the ted this process to the state of require only one person to Order transfers are now com- motorized control of lens and the art in spring of 2016 with a operate. Zünd was even able pletely paperless, which means axles. new Zünd Cutter G3 L-3200. A to meet these specifications. physical cardboard templates The Roboskop sees like the roll storage system for material The Zünd cutter and roll sto- are no longer needed. All rele- bird of prey when compared management and feeding that rage system are operated by vant parameters such as mate- to a conventional microscope provides space for up to 300 just one person. Because most rial stretching or the degrees of and identifies the errors on rolls of textiles was procured at cuts for office chairs and orga- hardness of foams are also cal- the surface and emulates the the same time. nizing systems are done on the culated digitally to precisely detailed resolution: multiple Prior to their investment, a Zünd cutter, single shift opera- determine the material allo- cameras with the highest multi-layer cutter was used for tion has its limits. Selbach ela- wance. Modern software deter- available megapixel density fabric cutting. Due to the ne- borates: “This is why we will mines the order in which jobs combined with integrated cessary manual nesting and be introducing overlapping are processed. Manual inter- image recognition allows for other restrictions, the fabric uti- shifts in the near future and ventions in the job queue are, the detection of miniscule therefore, no longer necessary. material errors of only 1/100 After production, the perfor- millimeter (10 μ) in size. The mance data, such as running image recognition software and cutting times, daily cuts of the surface microscope and speed are stored in the sys- provides real-time informati- tem. This guarantees perma- on pertaining to the type and nent monitoring of effectiven- extent of the problem: Fre- ess. Thanks to the complete di- quency, area, diameter, stati- gitalization of their cutting stical distribution and other operations, König+Neurath can deficiency categories are au- now process single runs and tomatically detected, marked very quickly and efficiently pro- and logged. duce sample models or proto- [www.textile-network.com] type chairs. [www.robomat.eu]

In spring of 2016, König+Neurath updated its fabric cutting process to the state of the art [www.textile-network.com] with a new Zünd Cutter G3 L-3200 [www.zund.com]

7-8/2017 | textile network 31 textile technology

Gerber Technology Bring on the digital technology revolution Gerber Technology, headquartered in Tolland, Connecticut and with its base for the D-A-CH (principally German-speaking) region in Ismaning, close to Munich, presented some impressive and innovative CAD/CAM solutions at this year’s Texprocess/Techtextil.

software and networking of the de- clusive interview with Peter Morris- sign/cut department with the cutting sey, Senior Vice-President at Gerber room and stitching/processing via Technology. “With the ability to the cut-ticket option and labeller – transfer data easily through our struck a chord with the industry. Yunique PLM Design Suite plug-in,” “Many companies also showed a commented Morrissey, “designers lively interest in our approach to IoT can now concentrate on desig- applications (the internet of things: ning.” The Design Suite plug-in, he direct communication between CNC said, was very easy to install, giving systems) with GerberConnect,” con- the customer direct access to new tinued Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh. features through the Adobe store; Yunique PLM was a tailor-made fa- A talk to Peter Morrissey shion PLM system that allowed cli- Our New York correspondent, Ma- ents to carry out both the installati- nik Mehta, managed to gain an ex- on and automatic updating through

Trade visitors were particularly en- Accu-Mark 3D demo Gerber Technology has subsidiaries in the USA, Por- thusiastic about the Accumark 2D at Texprocess tugal, China and elsewhere, as well as representati- and 3D cutting software and about ves in Cambodia, Vietnam, India and Hong Kong. At the integration of Gerber CAD and 130 sites around the world, businesses in a broad PLM software – specifically Yunique span of sectors rely on the advice and high-level ser- PLM V7, which offers many new fea- vice of the company. According to Pete Morrissey, tures including the new plug-in (in- Gerber’s global market share is currently 30 to 40 corporated into Design Suite) tai- percent in the fields of clothing, transportation (air- Peter Morrissay lored to the way in which the crea- craft and automotive), lifestyle and many others. tives work. About 50 percent of its business is in clothing. In a conversation with textile net- “Asia is our fastest-growing market,” Morrissey notes. In the mean- work, Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Mar- time, the clothing industry is also seeing a spread in the practice of keting Director Emea at Gerber ‘reshoring’, which means bringing production back again, closer to Technology, revealed that interest in the point of sale. The converse is also occurring, however: “Not only digital topics was remarkably high: European and American companies but also Indian and Turkish busi- “Small, mid-sized and even large nesses are starting to discover the continent of Africa for their sour- players in the fashion industry were cing.” Morrissay also points out that increasingly, Chinese busines- all clearly highly motivated and pre- ses are investing in Africa in order to gain free access to the US mar- paring to create their own (individu- ket through the AGOA agreement, so procurement and product al) digital reality.” New solutions for flows are currently changing once more. cut-order planning – with Accu-Plan

32 textile network | 7-8/2017 Digitalisation for fashion – hype or reality? Why it’s time to embrace your digital reality!

Voting with the feet – as the digital revolution starts rolling in, DIGITALISATION the clothing industry is filled with the antici- Hype or reality? pation of a goldrush – view of Gerber Tech- nology’s exhibition Gerber Technology invited the in- stand ternational press to an interesting panel discussion at texprocess 2017 about the digital reality! The conclusion from the talk by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, narrator and Gerber Technology spokes- person Emea: “Start now - to be ready tomorrow“. Photos: Photos: Gerber Technology A gesture of gratitude for the panelists: the Adobe Add-ons marketplace. consumer – for ever.” The fashion David Gerber’s book about his father and “We want to assist our customers and clothing sector, he continued, founder of Gerber, in achieving maximum efficiency,” had been seeking cost efficiencies Heinz Joseph Gerber – said Morrissey, and the latest inno- for many years. “Fashion cycles are The Inventor’s Dilem- ma – The Remarkable vation, the Design Suite plug-in, becoming ever shorter and the Life of H. Joseph was ideally suited to this. Designers share of online purchases is cons- Gerber can, for example, create new colour tantly increasing. Companies are The Panelists (at the top) from palettes and access existing palet- under heavy competitive pressure the left to the right: tes easily with the Color plug-in; and are seeking to dispose of their with the Image plug-in they can ac- stocks as rapidly as possible.” And Leonie Barrie, just-style Managing cess all of the Adobe Illustrator di- yet it is not always existing stocks Editor gital masters as well as sketches, that are in demand in the market. graphics and CAD in combination “Mass customisation – the move Prof. Dr.-Ing. Dipl.-Ing. Michael with Yunique PLM. towards fashion and clothing that Ernst, Head of the Virlab – Virtual In addition, the Style plug-in modu- is personalised in its design and fit Laboratory – and holder of the le allows innovative styles to be – is achievable with our technolo- chair for textile product develop- created on Adobe Illustrator from gy. The winners will be those who ment at Niederrhein University, sketches, with all modifications and rely increasingly on digital techno- Mönchengladbach/Germany updates immediately available in logies, so as to prevent production Yunique PLM. Morrissey went on to errors.” Michel Byvoet, the founder and stress that Gerber Technology’s [www.gerbertechnology.com] CEO of Douelou NV, located in software and hardware solutions [Manik Mehta] Diepenbeek/Belgium. encouraged connectivity across the Design Suite – entire supply chain and would help screenshot Peter Santora, Vice President of the customer to achieve shorter cy- Softwear Automation, Atlanta/ cles with optimised outcomes ac- GA, USA, developer for robotic ross the board. The fashion indust- sewing solutions without any di- ry, he said, was on the brink of a rect human labour. revolution in the implementation of the next level of digital technology Karsten Newbury joined Gerber applications. Technology in October 2014 as “All of those involved – from the Vice President and General Man- large corporations down to small ager, Software Solutions. In that businesses – are tackling digitalisa- role, Karsten leads Gerber’s CAD, tion,” he explained. “Startups are PDM, and PLM activities. springing up. All of this will change the supply and value chain – the process chain from design to end

7-8/2017 | textile network 33 business

Lectra Tradition goes digital Given the choice, would you continue to bank on existing structures and production processes or invest in creating a digitalised business model? Many manufacturers are currently asking themselves this very same question, particularly those that have a long tradition.

dustries these days, the work environment is characterised by a need for mobility such that office furniture has to be flexible and functional, yet also modern and design-led. At the same time, customer expectations are rising with respect to quality and lead times. Godfrey Syrett’s manual production process was, therefore, no longer in a position to deliver on either of these counts. In a move to shorten lead times without compromising on quality, and to develop the product range with a maximum degree of flexibility, the company decided to transform its production set-up. Working in collaboration with Lectra, a supplier of

Photo: OVS Photo: integrated technology solutions for the fabric, leather, textile and com- After all, it has taken them many ye- stalt für Wiederaufbau recently re- OVS uses Lectra PLM posites industry, Godfrey Syrett digi- ars to build the structural core of their vealed that, in the period from 2013 in development talised its entire pre-production and businesses and to establish themsel- to 2015, around 83 percent of SMEs production processes. The staff now ves as reliable partners for their sup- had made headway with the digita- have the capability to create their pliers and customers. Although these lisation of their businesses – and for patterns digitally whilst cutting is companies are the mainstay of most good reason, given that the switch carried out automatically. Introdu- Automated cutting industries, they must not lose sight of brings many benefits. with Vector reduces cing a digital supply chain has enab- the fact that the marketplace is chan- material consumption led the furniture maker to increase ging. Today’s consumers are looking Furniture embraces for high-quality products that are cus- digitalisation tomised yet affordable. Yesterday’s Furniture maker Godfrey Syrett cele- production processes simply cannot brates its 70th anniversary this year. live up to these high expectations. Established in the post-war Britain The only way forward is to embrace of 1947, the company used to be a Industry 4.0 coupled with a digital major supplier to the National supply chain. Health Service (NHS). Today, the manufacturer offers high-quality furni- Industry 4.0 and a digital ture solutions for educational estab- supply chain lishments and office environments. Based on a study by the Centre for Since its early beginnings, the firm European Economic Research, Ger- has seen the furniture market under- man development bank Kreditan- go significant change. In many in- Lectra Photo:

34 textile network | 7-8/2017 its production capacities by 70 per- Moving towards In- cent. Automatic cutting has led to dustry 4.0 with the Versalis digital cutting annual material savings worth system for leather 170,000 Euro. This has had a positive effect not only on profitability:

“We’ve worked hard to reduce any Lectra Photo: negative impact we have on the environment and we were recently ing for Lectra’s Versalis leather cut- tradition, this company offers awarded two prizes for sustainable ting solution. The digital cutting today’s customers a state-of-the-art production. With the help of Lectra’s room makes it possible to cut hides digital omni-channel experience. The solutions, we’ve been able to cut to the highest quality and without company has developed an App that material wastage by around 20 to interruption, whilst increasing capa- enables consumers not only to shop 30 percent, and in doing so have cities and, in so doing, cutting costs. online, but also to visit the in-store strengthened our commitment to “Delivering automotive parts isn’t virtual changing room. Using the di- enhancing sustainability,” says Da- just about working through orders,” gital wall with an integrated came- vid Hall, Sales and Marketing Direc- says Alberto Silvagni, Automotive ra, they can take selfies, whilst ret- tor at Godfrey Syrett. General Manager at Gruppo Mast- rieving information on other pro- rotto, “It’s also about meeting diffe- ducts and their availability in diffe- Leather at the push of a rent customer needs in terms of de- rent sizes via the touchscreen, button sign and volume. With our old pun- before ordering the clothing of their The automotive industry has been a ching machines, we would never ha- choice and having it sent straight to pioneering force in the field of digi- ve been able to meet the expectations their doorstep. This digital offering is talisation. The big corporations have of OEMs in the way that we can with backed up by a fully networked sup- been investing in the digital supply our new digital solutions.” ply chain. OVS relied on the Fashion chain for some time. Audi is taking PLM from Lectra to reorganise its this a step further by building its Fashion – touch and go entire product development process, high-end models in a smart factory The demand for high-quality custo- from the design right the way – a prime example of Industry 4.0. mised products at affordable prices through to production. The software Not wanting to be left behind, sup- is rising, above all, in the fashion in- solution brings together all the data pliers are having to adapt to these dustry. “Fast fashion is a successful and processes relating to the collec- changes quickly and efficiently. One concept, that reflects customer wi- tions’ product life cycles in a central of Europe’s leading tanneries sup- shes. High-end designs are being ta- data platform. Though based in dif- plying the automotive industry is ken and moved from the drawing ferent locations, staff can work on embracing change by digitalising its board to shop shelves within two to the same reference data at the same leather cutting processes. Establis- three weeks and sold worldwide at time. The Fashion PLM enhances hed in 1958, the Italian Gruppo very reasonable prices,” explains teamwork, minimises errors and Mastrotto operates one of the big- Chris Nicolaes, Managing Director prevents tasks from being carried gest just-in-time logistics hubs in Lectra Deutschland. OVS, the lea- out more than once, paving the way the leather industry, guaranteeing ding Italian fashion maker for men’s, for shorter lead times. delivery within 48 hours. With 20 women’s and children’s clothing, The fourth industrial revolution is in production and logistics locations in has implemented this hugely suc- the starting blocks with digital sup- Italy and around the world, the tra- cessful concept. OVS was founded ply at its very heart. Nicolaes conclu- ditional company delivers 21 million as part of the Coin Group in 1972. des: “Many long-established compa- square metres of leather to its custo- Its sister brand UPIM has been ope- nies are lagging behind when it co- mers every year. The increasing desi- rating in Italy since 1928. Even mes to digitalising their business re among car buyers and thus also though it can look back on a long models. Switching to a digital supply car manufacturers for ever more in- chain is providing industrial pioneers Chris Nicolaes, dividualised cars is resulting in a Managing Director with hard and fast benefits and op- growing number of product configu- Lectra Germany portunities. Unfortunately, lateco- rations and faster product changes, Jacqueline Kellner, mers run the very real risk of missing bringing greater complexity to the Fashion & Marketing the boat entirely,” so Nicolaes. supply chain. In response to this de- Manager Director, [www.lectra.com] Lectra Germany velopment, Gruppo Mastrotto deci- [www.godfreysyrett.co.uk] ded to invest in digitalisation, opt- Lectra Photos: [Jacqueline Kellner]

7-8/2017 | textile network 35 IFWS/IFKT

IFKT Swiss National Section

This year’s International Con- introduced Selfnations, an in- ties. Andreas Hämmerle of Tecc- gress of the International Fed- novative programme with a no-Tex GmbH talked about the eration of Knitting Technolo- clever algorithm that makes it role of the textile industry in gists (IFKT) took place on 19th possible for customers to order the wider context of innovation May 2017 in Zurich, hosted by individually tailored jeans on- and how technical textiles hel- STF, the Swiss Textile College. line. Using this technology, only ped reduce the weight of cars Along with its Swiss members 9 percent of first orders were as well as their emissions. Cle- and IFWS affiliates, the Con- returned, compared to an ave- mens Kaplan of Zimmer Ma- gress welcomed guests from its rage industry wide return rate schinenbau GmbH showed national sections in Germany of over 50 percent. printing and coating systems and Austria as well as numer- Werner Baumann of Uster Tech- that are still being produced in ous STF textile technology stu- nologies AG presented diffe- Austria. dents, representing the next rent testing instruments for Following a tour around STF, generation of textile experts. quality control. Walter Bowals Schellenberg Textildruck AG, a First on the agenda were five of Amsler Text provided infor- poster child of Swiss business talks by specialists: Reallook mation about the manufacture development, opened its doors AG’s CEO Andreas Giggenbühl of fancy yarns and their proper- to congress visitors. The company has been family-owned

since its foundation in 1946 Photo: Zimmer AG and never wavered in its com- Coating lines for customer tests and prod- mitment to high quality and uct development by Zimmer AG technological advancement. Today, its three-shift operation se keeps its leading position on processes 5.6 million linear me- the world market thanks to its tres every year. In order to be high-quality product range and able to quickly respond to cus- a respectful and success-orien- tomer requirements, Schellen- ted team spirit across the entire berg Textildruck has expanded production chain. its logistics system with a The day’s programme finished warehouse containing a vast with the general assembly of stock of partially pre-treated the IFKT Swiss National Sec- raw materials and around tion. With all agenda items ti- 2,000 printing templates. The cked off, interesting conversa- Uster Tester 6 famous “Schellenberg Touch” tions and a stimulating ex- has been developed by the change of ideas over dinner, company founder and continu- lasting well into the night, pro- es to be refined and perfected vided the perfect end to a busy Contact addresses IFKT with every generation. Thus, in- day.

Austria dustry experts can immediately The IFKT Swiss National Sec- President | Mag. Prof. Oskar Tschallener identify genuine Schellenberg tion extends its thanks to STF, E-Mail [email protected] products by their visual and particularly Sonja Amport (Di- Switzerland textural qualities, which are rector) and Holger Neubauer Offices E-Mail: [email protected] sought after by the top names (head of the textiles depart- in the industry. A look at their ment), for hosting the event as Germany Office client list reveals renowned well as E. Schellenberg Textil- Prof. Dipl.-Ing. Wolfgang Schäch brands such as Louis Vuitton druck AG and Urs Schellenberg E-Mail: [email protected] and Mey. Urs Schellenberg exp- for their time and support. lained how this Swiss enterpri- [www.knittingfed.com]

36 textile network | 7-8/2017 The next industry meeting in Italy is Milano Unica in July

Milano Unica Where do we go from here?

The markets have so far been international trade fair for tex- relatively calm in their response tiles and fabrics. It is scheduled to Brexit and Trump. There was to run at the exhibition centre general consensus at Proposte in Rho, Milan, from 11 to 13 in Cernobbio in early May that July 2017. business with the USA is, in In the run-up to the fair, textile fact, more buoyant than before. network spoke to Ercole Botto However, German dress shirt Poala, President of Milano Uni- maker Olymp is already feeling ca, about the current state of the consequences of Brexit. affairs. Fotolia Photo: In an interview with German newspapers Stuttgarter Nach- richten and Stuttgarter Zeitung textile network spoke to Ercole Botto Poala, in February of this year, Mark President of Milano Unica Bezner, who steers the fortunes of Bietigheim-Bissingen-based Textile network: How did the buyers at Milano Unica in Mi- Olymp, stated that he had pu- lan and the subsequent edition in Shanghai respond to Donald shed up the price of Olymp Trump’s election in the USA? shirts in the UK by 10 percent. Ercole Botto Poala: It’s obviously difficult to predict the fu- He blamed this latest move on ture, but it’s certainly clear that our products are top quality the dramatic fall in the value of and are already having to contend with high duties as a result. Milano Unica Photo: sterling. Olymp has around 800 If the US wants to remain competitive in terms of quality, it Ercole Botto Poala members of staff and posted will have to invest in know-how and expertise. You need more annual sales of over 240m Euro than just one term in the White House to effect this kind of change. And I don’t think that the in 2016. United States has the political will at this time to get to grips with one of the most traditio- The next industry meeting in nal forms of industry which delivers positive results, but over a long period of time. It’s not Italy, also for dress shirt manu- really part of the USA’s DNA. facturers, is Milano Unica, the Textile network: And how are buyers responding to Brexit? Ercole Botto Poala: Everybody here has adopted a “wait-and-see” approach.

Textile network: How important are the US and UK markets for Italian companies? Ercole Botto Poala: The latest figures show that exports to the UK are stable and positive, having recorded a 1.5 percent climb. It’s still a good market for Italian-made products, in spi- Photo: Olymp Luxor Photo: te of everything that has happened. It’s a very different picture in the USA, the most important market in the world. Here, every little change for the better or worse has an immediate and direct impact on our exports. But I’m still sticking to my positive forecast for 2017.

Textile network: Have any UK exhibitors withdrawn from the next Milano Unica in Milan? Ercole Botto Poala: The date has been brought forward to mid-July. We haven’t received any cancellations from the UK. On the contrary, some British exhibitors are actually returning

In the dress shirt study “Hemden 2017” by to Milano Unica. German magazine Textilwirtschaft, Olymp has reasserted its position on the German [The interview was conducted by Ingrid Sachsenmaier on behalf of textile network] market as the leading brand among the sector’s 31 most important suppliers.

7-8/2017 | textile network 37 business

IWTO Benetton joins IWTO

In March of this year, the Italian in doing so, has underlined its Photo: Benetton Photo: Benneton Group became a commitment to environmental member of the IWTO (Interna- issues. Benetton Group partici- tional Wool Textile Organisa- pated in the IWTO’s annual tion). Based in Veneto, it is the congress at the beginning of first European fashion compa- May in Harrogate, UK. To join ny to join the organisation and the IWTO underscores the importance Benetton ascribes to knitwear and wool. [www.benettongroup.com] Stella Jean Capsule

ITALY Laura Biagiotti died

She had a predilection for she was fondly known in the gree, she had a change of world, as an ambassador for white, she loved working with USA, dedicated her “Roma” heart and decided instead to Italian fashion. After the death cashmere and had a gift for fragrance to the Italian capital, work at her mother’s fashion of her spouse in 1996, Laura creating fragrances. Renowned and presented it in a bottle re- studio. This is where she dis- Biagiotti welcomed her daugh- fashion designer Laura Biagio- sembling a fluted pillar. In her covered her passion for deter into the business. The tti has passed away unexpect- younger years, Laura Biagiotti signing cashmere fashion for 39-year-old will continue to edly at the age of 73 after suf- had actually wanted to be- slightly larger women. Togeth- run the company in the memo- fering a heart attack in Rome. come an archaeologist. How- er with husband and doctor, ry of her mother. The “Queen of Cashmere”, as ever, after completing her de- Gianni Cigna, she travelled the [www.laurabiagotti.it]

CONFINDUSTRIA MODA Moving forward together

The Italian Confindustria Moda art, we are creative and pro- association for optical equip- The member associations will is the new umbrella organisa- ductive, and we give consum- ment). remain independent and will tion for several associations in ers the ability to dream.” The The new body is planning to continue to focus on their main the fashion industry, making it 67,000 companies, that consti- move into premises in Milan’s areas of interest. The umbrella the second biggest association tute Italy’s fashion industry, Corso Sempione next year at association will focus, among of its kind in Italy. Based in Mi- amass an annual turnover of the very latest. The building will others, on the provision of legal lan, the organisation will be roughly 88bn Euro. Foreign accommodate not only the of- advice as well as on research, steered by President Claudio markets have a significant role fices of all the member associa- which will be allocated its own Marenzi of the northern Italian to play, with 62 percent of sales tions but also events, trade division. luxury fashion house Herno generated abroad. fairs and exhibitions. [www.sistemamodaitalia.com] and will begin operations in Claudio Marenzi has been Pres- early 2018. ident of the fashion association Around 600,000 people are ei- Sistema Moda Italia (SMI) since ther directly or indirectly em- 2013 and head of Pitti Immag- ployed in the fashion sector. ine (Florence) since 2017. His President Claudio Marenzi be- deputy at the new association adpic Photos: lieves that the foundation of is Cirillo Marcolin, who is simi- the fashion association “is of larly well connected in his role historical significance for Ital- as President of the FIAMP (Ital- ian-made fashion,” continuing, ian association for fashion ac- “We are an ambassador or our cessories) and ANFAO (Italian

38 textile network | 7-8/2017 USA Emi-G Photos: The sock capitol of the world

Gina Locklear had wanted to bold” sock styles as a way to join her family’s sock manufac- Zkano and Little River – socks made from Organic accessorize a basic look. She turing business in Fort Payne, Cotton notes that her company has Ala., since she was in college. A video on the company’s website helps tell the story of the seen considerable growth in That was in the early 2000s, company and Fort Payne’s sock-making heritage. Gina men’s fashion socks. when the U.S. industry’s decline Locklear says that helps spread the excitement to a broader So far, Locklear has eschewed was in full swing. Momentum audience. She also notes that the greater Fort Payne area, advertising in favor of doing toward cheap imported socks which once was home to nearly 150 sock mills, now has less press interviews and getting was robbing the northeastern than 20. For Gina Locklear the biggest challenge is not unlike the company’s message out Alabama town of its revered that of other small businesses: A small budget requires through its website. She is pas- reputation as the “Sock Capitol considerable creative thinking. sionate about the business. of the World.” “I love getting out there and Locklear’s parents started Emi- telling people what we do” , G Knitting in 1991, naming it Stewart American Made, which colorful fashion socks for both says Locklear. “2016 was a after their two daughters, Emily honors American entrepre- men and women, reaches great year and we will keep and Gina. With the industry in a neurs. Moreover Locklear and across different markets and is growing. More and more peo- free fall, there was little incen- her socks were the subject of a green and organic focused. ple are buying our socks and tive for Locklear to join the profile by The New York Times Locklear says people who buy they love them and our quality. family business following her in 2016. her socks like supporting U.S. I see that continuing to hap- college graduation. “There’s “We literally started from the manufacturing and are also in- pen. We try to do as much press wasn’t a job for me to come ground up,” Locklear says. “I trigued by the use of organic as we can to get the word out home to then, and we thought knew how to make socks for cotton. The sustainability as- there. We have a great sales the business was going away,” other people, but I didn’t know pect is the “cherry on the top” team that takes our socks to Locklear recalls. “Anyway, I did how to make socks and sell of the operation. The Little Riv- various trade shows.“ a few other things.” During this them. There was a big learning er brand has primarily targeted Don’t expect Emi-G to broaden time, she also gained an appre- curve.” women, but it launched a into other product areas. Socks ciation for all things organic. The brands use organic cotton men’s line during the fall of will always be the focus. She believed she could produce grown in Texas. Yarn comes 2016. Both brands emphasize Growth will come from new socks made from organic cot- from a spinner in North Caroli- sustainability in their manufac- sock designs and Locklear says ton, brand them and be suc- na, using low-impact dyes. turing operations. the company will continue to cessful. Locklear took her or- Locklear says she receives Socks are now trendy on fash- offer more sock options each ganic sock concept to her par- emails every day from custom- ion runways, Locklear says, season. ents, Terry and Regina Locklear, ers expressing happiness about which helps fuel her optimism. [www.zkano.com] in 2008, and convinced them the company making socks in Men want to wear “crazy and [John W. McCurry] that was the future of the com- the U.S. Zkano and Little River pany. A year later, she created operate lean, with just 15 em- the Zkano brand, and three ployees, some of which float years later, the Little River Sock between Locklear’s sock opera- Mill brand. Both use organic tion and her parents’ greige cotton and the socks are made goods business, which produc- through sustainable manufac- es athletic socks. turing processes. Zkano is sold “We have been lucky with our primarily online while Little labor situation,” Locklear says. River is sold in specialty bou- Emi-G Knitting employs an ar- tiques. Little River, named after senal of more than 140 Sangi- nearby Little River Canyon, was acomo machines. They are a selected as a 2015 American mix of new and vintage. The Made Award Winner by Martha Zkano brand, comprised of Gina Locklear (left) with her parents Terry and Regina Locklear

7-8/2017 | textile network 39 Photos: Prime Source Forum Photos: Many guests Many discussions Many speakers 12th Prime Source Forum The future of fashion sourcing The 12th Prime Source Forum, to grow, restructure, upgrade, years ago, online trade was a It is leading the way in online a textile and apparel (T&A) in- transform, differentiate and in- PC business, but today it is a spending, which accounts dustry event, took place in novate its production, thus dri- mobile business that is increa- for 48.5 percent of consumer mid-March in Hong Kong. Over ving China’s T&A industry to singly moving to cloud techno- spending in China, 40.3 per- 40 speakers from Asia, Europe, the next level. Meanwhile, so- logy. cent in Asia, and 32.2 percent Africa and North America me of the leading manufactur- Bowing to the growing in North America. In 2005, spoke on topics related to the ers in China are setting up strength of e-commerce, espe- Asian household consumption T&A business, trade, market- operations in foreign countries cially among the millennials reached US$ 7tn, rising to an ing, financing, new develop- in a significant way, especially who are prime spenders and estimated US$ 33tn by 2030. ment and technology. The in South-East Asia and Africa. tech savvy, many retail stores This compares with an expec- event comprised two keynote In the next ten years, China’s and malls are closing down in ted US$ 17tn in the US and speeches, six sessions and successful T&A companies will the US. The bricks-and-mortar US$ 16tn in the EU. This indica- eight CEO dialogues. take the money made in China stores are fading in number tes that Asia will be driving What does the future fashion to invest all over the world, but are not going away. Shop- consumption through e-com- sourcing landscape hold? Gi- following and supported by ping malls will continue to merce. Both brands and manu- ven that the supply chain in- the Belt & Road Initiative and function as showrooms where facturers need to contribute to volves many countries, it is im- Made in China 2025. The who- consumers go for a real shop- this end. Finding a good part- portant to keep a flexible le of Asia will emerge as a hu- ping experience before ner with the same vision is pa- mindset and agile operation. ge market, with China at the purchasing their items online. ramount and critical if compa- Buzzwords used at the Forum forefront. After all, China is It is important to create a ba- nies are to work together. included speed, integration, growing fast as a market while lance between online and off- The era of chasing the chea- consumer first, collaboration, shrinking as a manufacturer. line stores, even at a time pest price has come to an end. agility and flexibility. There when digital stores are gaining Africa is the last frontier for was general consensus that 2025 market share. the T&A industry. It offers a China would remain a key ma- By 2025, there will be 66 new In the era of big data, consu- great opportunity to manufac- nufacturer whilst becoming an airports, 5,500 railway stations mers are eager for differentia- turers of all product types, es- important large-scale market. with 120 million overseas tou- tion of style. Technology and pecially T&A as it employs ma- Africa is considered the last rist holidays being made by innovation are driving the next ny workers and helps Africa to frontier. Chinese visitors. In the next 5 new normal for the T&A indus- earn much needed foreign cur- years, China will be home to try. There are great business rencies. Ethiopia has a clear vi- The next 10 years 1.34 million HNWIs (High Net opportunities and more money sion to build its country by es- Manufacturing will be moved Worth Individuals) which cor- to be made in the coming ye- tablishing a quality T&A indus- closer to the consumers – local responds to 54 percent of the ars using big data information. try. Its advantage for manufac- for local. E-commerce, online upper middle class. Looking Digitalisation will force com- turing lies in its government retail, big data collection, fa- across to India, although the panies to reinvent themselves. endorsing and supporting stra- shion platforms, technology growth of its infrastructure is Information and automation tegy, unlike those in South- and innovation are key compo- still lagging behind, it is an in- will emerge as the leading fac- East Asia. The government’s nents of the T&A industry go- teresting place to keep an eye tors of change and growth. alignment with the industry is ing forward. on. Technology based fashion plat- critical to its success. The Ha- Although China is growing at a E-commerce is the rising star forms will drive sales in totally wassa Industrial Park, flagship slower rate, it is still expanding of fashion supply chain ma- new directions with virtual and park in Ethiopia with state-of- at 6.5 percent. China is still a nagement. Although it is chal- augmented reality devices en- the-art facilities was built spe- good place for T&A manufac- lenging in terms of payment, hancing online sales. Tech sav- cifically for the T&A industry in turing. The producers who can taxation, regulation and du- vy millennials will transform just nine months and was ope- survive in China are the best ties, it is nevertheless an exci- the global economy. ned in 2016. and most successful. They will ting area. It not only helps big Read more about Africa and the flourish in spite of rising labour manufacturers but also the China is changing Hawassa Industrial Park in Ethi- costs. In fact, the increase in smaller ones, provided logis- China is evolving into a very opia in our Online-Magazine. wages is helping this industry tics cost are kept in check. Five mobile phone-driven economy. [Vicky Sung]

40 textile network | 7-8/2017 business Photos: Prime Source Forum Photos:

56. DORNBIRN-MFC An idea- and network generator

Overall, more than 700 partici- success of the event. Help sha- pixabay Photo. pants from 34 nations visited pe the “Innovation Communi- the Dornbirn-MFC last year ty“ and encourage your busi- the requirements of the preli- Expert Panel “Textile & Nonwo- (80% from Europe, 15% from ness associates to visit the minary stages of the supply vens Waste“ – a Threat or Op- Asia, 5% from the Americas). In meeting. chain. portunity?“ the day before the 2017 some delegations from For the introductory lecture in In the field of sportswear Vaude opening of the Congress: Asia and the Americas have the field of protective applica- the innovative and repeatedly This highly topical issue will be confirmed their participation. tions a speaker of NASA/ USA rewarded outdoor brand will handled precisely by an expert The European characterised in- could be acquired on the issue enrich the topic with its presen- team from the fiber industry, novation platform for the fiber of flame retardend textile fibers tations. Appealing contributions the downstream stages, retail industry and the various stages for space research. Inter alia a from industry and research will and for the first time from the of the value chain should act as reputable global producer of be delivered on the issue of waste disposers (Waste Ma- idea- and network generator – protective clothing will present functionalization and ecological nagement Companies). each participant is part of the the latest developments and manufacturing process. The current preliminary pro- In order to generate a more in- gramme with details about the teractive and more vivid pro- lectures, updates and registrati- More than a 100 expert lectures concentrate on the fol- gramme sequence additional on forms can be found at lowing key themes: discussions within the main to- [www.dornbirn-mfc.com] - Fiber innovations pics are being planned. - Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for hygiene and healthcare Top-class key note speeches 56. Dornbirn Man-made Fibers applications with foresighted and partly Congress (Dornbirn-MFC) - Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for protective applications provocative perspectives will 13 – 15 September 2017 - Fibers, textiles and nonwovens for sports and leisure wear Communicating the Future of give fresh momentum to all Man-made Fibers participants.

BERTHA BENZ PRIZE 2017 Weaving ultra-stable metal cells About the Bertha Benz Prize The prize is awarded by the Daimler and Benz Foundation Dr.-Ing. Cornelia Sennewald lains: “In the processing of for an outstanding doctoral thesis by a female engineer. En- has been awarded the Bertha lightweight metals such as alu- dowed with 10,000 Euro the prize is presented every year Benz Prize 2017 for her doctor- minium, casting processes have during the Bertha Benz lecture programme. al thesis on “Generative Struc- reached the limits of what is ture, Technology and Weaving physically possible. The next le- Daimler and Benz Foundation Loom Development for Unique ap in quality towards markedly Driving knowledge – The Daimler and Benz Foundation sup- 3D Cellular Structures in Light- lighter and more stable structu- ports the generation of knowledge. It focuses on promoting weight Construction”. Cornelia res can only be achieved young scientists, interdisciplinary collaborations and re- Sennewald, Engineer at the Fa- through the manufacture of search projects across all scientific disciplines. The non-pro- culty of Mechanical Science metal cells. These are made by fit foundation is on a par with the big German foundations and Engineering at the Techni- weaving wires together in such that are committed to supporting science. cal University of Dresden exp- a way that they create ultra-

strong connections with the Textile Machinery and High- minimum use of material.” The Performance Material Technol- award-winning thesis was ogy (ITM), which is organised completed at the Institute of within the Faculty of Mechani- cal Science and Engineering at Together with her colleague Dipl.-Ing. Mi- the Technical University of

Photo: Mirko Krziwon/ITM Mirko Photo: chael Vorhof, Dr.-Ing. Cornelia Sennewald checks the structure of the 3D woven met- Dresden. al cells [www.tu-dresden.de]

7-8/2017 | textile network 41 business

Exclusive series - Industry 4.0 explained - Part 4.1 Working World In the previous issue, human-machine interaction was discussed in considerable depth. In the context of this topic and the move towards Industry 4.0, the world of work will inevitably change in a diversity of different ways. The following article examines selected aspects of the changing world of work against the backdrop of textile production.

Characteristics of working Figure 1: Stages to- world transformation wards mobile machine operation As part of the digitization process, work tasks become more and more flexible in terms of content and time and work activities are assis- ted, for example through the collaboration with robots. Mobile devices will be part of everyday life as work equipment or an interface to the machine and will play an important role for instance in the planning of the work organization. The respective workplace will be

adjusted individually to the emplo- STFI Photos: yee and supplemented by virtual working environments. The employees working in flexible forms will enjoy a new way of leadership bots is hard to imagine, since fine- information. Exemplarily, these de- through mobile and networked motor activities are still a great dif- velopments can be described very work and have to qualify and deve- ficulty for robots, especially when well in the case of a machine ope- lop on-the-job. dealing with textile materials. Ac- rator. cording to surveys, task areas and Current perception and the range tasks of production work Stages towards mobile discussion will change in the course of digital machine operation In society the change of the wor- transformation, hence the necessa- For the machine operator, for ex- king world in the course of digitiza- ry competencies of the employees ample of weaving machines, there tion is currently controversially dis- will also be shifted. This develop- is currently a high effort in the do- cussed. Fears of increasing infor- ment can be answered through the cumentation of actions on the ma- mation overload and complexity, targeted strengthening of impor- chines to be supervised. In addition, an increasingly rapid change, ex- tant specialist skills and key com- monitoring of the machines requi- cessive demand and job losses do- petences, such as the overall pro- res enormous walking distances. minate the negative scenarios and cess understanding, the IT know- Despite all this, there is no transpa- predict a rise in mental stress. ledge, the willingness to learn, the rency about process events as well On the other hand, there is the un- ability to communicate (including as parameters and states of the ma- animous opinion that physical to machines) and problem solving chines and tools in the periods stress will be significantly reduced competence. Increased psychologi- when the operator is not on site. by means of various assistance sys- cal stress can be countered, for in- By upgrading the machines with tems, such as human-robot colla- stance, by information technology networked sensors, it is possible to boration. Also a displacement of assistance systems that filter the recognize when the intervention of humans from the production by ro- huge amount of data into relevant the operator on the machine beco-

42 textile network | 7-8/2017 tion triggers an action for the operator. The employee carries this out without any decision-making scope. The operating extent and the monitoring effort are thus reduced. Here, suppression tasks are expected to a lesser extent and are only indicated to the machine operator if he can solve them by way of small-scale solution assistance. The mes necessary. Corresponding in- For example, existing security sys- Figure 2: Expansion of employee remains in his main de- formation is transmitted from the tems can be supplemented by sys- the area of responsi- ployment area and performs a few bility using the exam- machine and sent to the operator’s tems of area monitoring, so that no ple of the machine upstream and subsequent tasks. location-independent mobile de- persons are in danger areas when control In the opposite tool scenario, there vice (see Figure 1). In the case of a the machine activity is resumed. is scope for action and decision- multi-machine operation, the em- The benefits of mobile (multi) ma- making, such as the selection of ployee can be on site as quickly as chine monitoring and control are the next job, prioritization or opti- possible by visualizing the machine enhanced productivity due to redu- mizaton of the employee. There is information, e.g. for determining ced running distances and reduced an optimal transparency about the the default-to-actual deviation on documentation requirements for process, which enables the emplo- the machine (machine speed, effici- the employee as well as increased yee to make the right decisions and ency or number of stops) and cor- transparency for the long-term pre- to optimize his actions. Messages rect any faults. Intelligent data vention of production interrup- on relevant machine data and sta- analysis (temperature, tool status, tions. Based on up-to-date infor- tuses as well as additional informa- vibrations, or produced quantity) mation – in real-time – the emplo- tion assist the operator in recogni- allows the operator to evaluate the yee is offered a digital assistance zing, evaluating and correcting machine status and, if necessary, for better decision-making. Accor- process/machine faults. Depending pass it on to request appropriately dingly, in the case of simultaneous on the work situation, the emplo- qualified personnel. In addition, errors on several machines, a prio- yee decides independently about the mobile device allows entering ritization of troubleshooting with the execution of sideline activities, activities carried out on the machi- regard to the complexity or urgen- such as changing the warp beam or ne directly into the production sys- cy of the job can be carried out. Re- creeling the bobbins. tem. action times are shortened; allow The two “extreme” scenarios are Furthermore, there is a high effort quickest possible interventions and process-, machine- and situation- for the machine operator to always thus corrections of a plan deviation dependent and can change within have to be on the machine in order in the multi-machine operation. the value-added chain, which is to remedy problems by “simplest” At the present time, two different why the overall process can be de- activities. The use of mobile devices scenarios for the machine operator scribed as a hybrid scenario. with the possibility of interacting of the future are being discussed in with the machine allows the opera- research (Fraunhofer IAO). In the Change in the area tor to perform corrections automa- so-called automation scenario, responsibility tically. Thus, the operator can view work steps are determined by The central question in the design the status of the machines to be “technology”. Each machine situa- of an Industrie 4.0-compliant work- supervised at any time and initiate ing environment 4.0 should be: actions on the machine remotely in Whereas the previous issue of textile network How can the digitalization support the context previously defined 5-6/2017 took a closer look at the interaction bet- employees to perform a highly pro- events and situations (such as re- ween man and machine, Part 4 of our series is de- ductive and, at the same time, low booting the system after automa- voted to the changing world of work in textile stress work? In part 4.2 in the next tic, non-manual troubleshooting). production. In Part 4.2 in the next issue we give issue we will give you some exam- Operating activities can be docu- some examples. ples about the new working world. mented and evaluated automati- Part 1: Networked Production, Part 2: Smart Main- [Robert Mothes, Dirk Zschenderlein cally. However, safety aspects must tenance, Part 3: Human-Machine Interaction, Part Sächsisches Textilforschungsinsti- also be considered when operating 4.1 /4.2: Working World tut Chemnitz e.V. (STFI)] from far.

7-8/2017 | textile network 43 market place

An der Fakultät Maschinenwesen ist im Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik zum 01.10.2018 die Professur (W3) für Montagetechnik für textile Produkte zu besetzen. Die der Professur obliegenden Forschungsarbeiten sind sowohl theoretisch als auch experimen- tell ausgerichtet, wofür CAE-Labore mit besonders leistungsfähiger Software sowie mehrere Labore mit moderner Montagetechnik für Textilien zur Verfügung stehen. Die o. g. Gebiete sollen sich in die Forschungsschwerpunkte „Leichtbau im Multi-Material-Design“, „Effiziente Energie- technik“ sowie „Produktentwicklung und -herstellung“ der Fakultät Maschinenwesen einfügen. In der Lehre sind Veranstaltungen auf den Gebieten Verfahren und Maschinen der Konfektions- technik, Entwicklung und Konstruktion von textilen Endprodukten aus biegeweichen Materialien unter Anwendung von CAE-Technik sowie zur Konfektionierung Technischer Textilien einschließ- WerWer WoWo WasWas || DerDer textiletextile BranchenführerBranchenführer lichWho deren WhatGebrauchswertbeurteilung Where | Theanzubieten, textile wobei entsprechende suppliers Lehrerfahrung guide vorhan- den sein soll. Eine Mitwirkung in der akademischen Selbstverwaltung wird erwartet. Vorausgesetzt werden insbesondere umfassende Kenntnisse auf den Gebieten: l CAE-Modellierung und Simulation textiler Endprodukte aus biegeweichen Materialien l Gestaltung der Produktionsprozesse mit den erwarteten Produkteigenschaften unter Berück- sichtigung der Eigenschaften und des Verhaltens textiler Werkstoffe und Halbzeuge sowie der Handhabungsprozesse l Konstruktion und Modifikation von Konfektionsmaschinen bzw. Trenn- und Montagetechniken für textile Produkte. Gesucht wird eine Persönlichkeit, die in Forschung und Lehre die Gebiete der Produktentwick- Who What Where | The textile suppliers guide lung gebrauchsfähiger textiler Endprodukte oder textiler Komponenten komplexer technischer Systeme, deren Fertigung mit Technologien und Maschinen der textilen Konfektionstechnik bzw. Trenn- und Montagetechnik, inklusive der Maschinenkonstruktion und Weiterentwick- lung in Wechselwirkung zu den Besonderheiten textiler Werkstoffe und Halbzeuge sowie die Gebrauchswertbeurteilung dieser Produkte unter Berücksichtigung der konkreten Einsatzbe- FIBRES FASERNFASERN AND UNDUND YARN GARNEGARNE dingungen vertritt. Bewerberinnen KNITTING STRICKMASCHINENZUBEHÖRSTRICKMASCHINENZUBEHÖR und Bewerber MACHINERY sollen auf diesenACCESSORIES Gebieten wissenschaftlich international ausgewiesen sein. Erfahrungen in der Leitung von Forschungsprojekten sowie Photos:Photos:Photos: rafis rafis Fotolia/G Fotolia/G rafis Fotolia/G Personalführungskompetenz werden erwartet. Einschlägige Praxiserfahrungen sind für die Bewältigung der industrienahen Forschungsaktivitäten von besonderer Relevanz. Die Fähigkeit und Bereitschaft, Lehrveranstaltungen in englischer Sprache anzubieten, werden vorausgesetzt. Die Berufungsvoraussetzungen gemäß § 58 SächsHSFG sind zu erfüllen. Die TU Dresden ist bestrebt, den Anteil an Professorinnen zu erhöhen und fordert deshalb Frauen ausdrücklich auf, sich zu bewerben. Auch die Bewerbungen Schwerbehinderter sind besonders willkommen. Die Universität ist eine zertifizierte familiengerechte Hochschule und verfügt über einen Dual Career Service. Sollten Sie zu diesen und verwandten Themen Fragen haben, stehen Ihnen die Gleichstellungsbeauftragte der Fakultät Maschinenwesen (Frau Dr.- PhoneTelefonTelefon + ++49 4949 2871 28712871 2702-0 2702-02702-0 YarnGarnvertrieb/GarnveredlungGarnvertrieb/Garnveredlung trading/Yarn ﬁ nishing Ing. Veneta Schubert, Tel.ChristophChristoph Christoph+49 351 463-33888) Liebers LiebersLiebers sowie GmbH GmbHGmbH unsere und undundSchwerbehindertenvertretung Co. Co.Co. KG KGKG (Frau Birgit Kliemann Tel. +49 351 463-33175) gern zum Gespräch zur Verfügung. FaxFaxFax + ++ 49 4949 2871 28712871 33830 3383033830 YarnGarneGarne for fürfür knitting StrickereiStrickerei and und undweaving WebereiWebereiIhre Bewerbung richten SieToolsToolsTools bitte and andandmit tabellarischem Sinkers SinkersSinkers Lebenslauf, Darstellung des wissen- [email protected]@[email protected] · ·www.bimeco.de· www.bimeco.dewww.bimeco.de PhoneTelefonTelefon +49 +49+49 9823 98239823 955-100 955-100955-100schaftlichen Werdegangs,Phone TelefonTelefonListe der +49 wissenschaftlichen +49+49 8458 84588458 3276-0 3276-03276-0 Arbeiten, Verzeichnis der Lehrveran- staltungen, Lehrevaluationsergebnissen der letzten drei Jahre in einfacher Ausfertigung und spunFasergarFasergar yarns:nene cotton,ausaus Baumwolle,Baumwolle, polyester, Polyester,Polyester, viscose and Vis-Vis- [email protected]@[email protected] in elektronischer Form (CD)FaxFaxFax sowie +49 +49+49 einer 8458 84588458 beglaubigten 5501 55015501 Kopie der Urkunde über den höchsten blends,kosekose u.u. raw-white Mischungen,Mischungen, and rohweissrohweiss dyed u.u. gefärbtgefärbt www.tvu.dewww.tvu.dewww.tvu.de akademischen Grad bis [email protected]@[email protected] 05.10.2017 (es gilt der Poststempel der ZPS der TU Dresden) an: TU Dresden, Dekan derwww.liebers.de www.liebers.deFakultätwww.liebers.de Maschinenwesen, Herrn Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Ralph Stelzer, 01062 Dresden.

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7-811-12/201211-12/2012/2013 | textile || textiletextile network networknetwork 372929 preview | imprint

The international premium magazine for the textile chain The next issue of will be published on 22th August 2017 and these are some of our topics: IMPRINT 15th year of publication · Issue 7-8/2017 ISSN 1612-5088, publication date: 06/30/2017 Publisher’s Meisenbach GmbH Address: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a 96047 Bamberg/Germany Postfach 2069 Digital colour management 96011 Bamberg/Germany Phone: +49 951 861-0 In the fashion industry colour plays an Fax: +49 951 861-158 www.textile-network.com important role both in the design and www.meisenbach.de production of the collections. When it Managing Photo: Ilona Schulz Photo: comes to colour management and Director: Ulrich Stetter communication, textile company Tak- Head of editorial office: Sabine Stenzel ko Fashion relies on the multispectral Head of online systems from Caddon. The measuring editorial office: Daniel Keienburg process creates visual colour impressi- Manager sales / distribution/ ons and was developed by Caddon marketing: Christian Matthe Color Technology GmbH in Aachen, Editor-in-chief: Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski Germany (R & D). Phone: +49 5527 979440 Fax: +49 5527 979441 Nordhäuser Straße 34 37115 Duderstadt/Germany [email protected] Editorial Staff: Anja Menzel (Assistenz) Phone: +49 951 861-117 Fax: +49 951 861-170 Guimaraes Home Textiles Show [email protected] Contributing Iris Schlomski, Hans-Werner Oertel, Textile Network visited the small Stephan Geitel, Sabine Anton- home textiles fair in the north of Katzenbach, Olivia Rudschewski, Susanne Berngruber, Reiner Knochel, Portugal. We report on the latest de- Malte Krautwald, Manik Mehta, Jacqueline Kellner, Ingrid Sachsen- velopments and products from a maier, John W.McCurry, Vicky Sung, country with a long tradition in texti- Robert Mothes, Dirk Zschenderlein les, an abundance of creative brand Advertising Sales: Bernd Raithel Phone: +49 951 861-145 manufacturers and efficient contrac- Fax: +49 951 861-161 tors. [email protected] Advertising Matthias Fichtel Photo: Takko Photo: Administration: Phone: +49 951 861-169 Fax: +49 951 861-161 [email protected] Responsibility: Responsible according to the German press law for Editorial: Taking climate protection seriously Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski for Advertisement: Bernd Raithel What impact do our actions have on (both: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a, the climate and the environment? This 96047 Bamberg/Germany) question is of ever increasing relevan- Layout: Andrea Mühl, Timo Wiesmann Print: Schleunungdruck GmbH ce to logistics companies and their Eltertstraße 27 customers. Hermes Germany is com- Photo: Belvedere Wien 97828 Marktheidenfeld/Germany Sales: Ulla Schiel mitted to reducing its CO2 emissions Phone: +49 951 861-101 along the supply chain – and on all Fax: +49 951 861-158 [email protected] fronts. Distribution: Meisenbach GmbH Reader's service textile network Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a 96047 Bamberg Phone: +49 951 861-101 Fax: +49 951 861-158 [email protected] Subscription charge: textile network (12 issues p.a., thereof 6 double issues). Germany: EUR 130.00 (incl. VAT and postage) Europe: EUR 151.00, Overseas: EUR 181.00 The magazine and the individual contributions and illustra- Vulgär? Fashion Redefined tions contained therein are all protected by copyright. Once the publisher has accepted the manuscript, the publication The exhibition “Vulgär? Fashion Rede- rights, the translation rights, the reprint rights, the electronic database storage rights, the right to manufacture offprints, Photo: Fotolia Photo: fined” at the Winterpalais Prinz Eugen photocopies and microcopies pass onto the publishing in Vienna explored the limits of what house. Any utilization that violates the boundaries set down by copyright law is not permitted without the prior consent is deemed “good” taste. The diverse of the publishing house. The forwarding of unrequested articles and information to the publisher automatically implies definitions of the “Vulgar” were that revocable consent has been granted to the publisher to save the articles or information supplied in a database which shown through breath-taking fashion is administered either by the publishing house or a third creations from the Renaissance to the party cooperating with the publishing house. The current advertising rate card is issue 14 dated October present day. 2016. © 2017, Meisenbach GmbH

7-8/2017 | textile network 45 Last but not least

Network Success at Techtextil/Texprocess textile network is at home not just in print but also in the digital media. When we tell a story on textile- network.de or textile-network.com, we continue writing it in the print edition, we share it on Facebook, comment on it on Twitter or introduce it on YouTube. We are networking every day and in every possible way. You can join our network too!

Jana Kern (Kern Kommunikation), Prof. Dr. Andre Matthes (TU Chemnitz), Jörg Diekmann (Oeko- Tex), Sophia Sch- neider-Esleben (SSS) with Iris Schlomski and René Lang

Stephan Gunold (Gunold), Antoine Doubacis ( The Patternclub), Joachim Rees, (Multiplot), Jürgen Brecht (Marc

Photos: Iris Schlomski Photos: Cain), Michael Nothelfer (caddon Thank you all for a fabulous trade fair! textile network and the VDMD printing) with Iris Schlomski

We would like to take this opportunity to extend our heart- felt thanks to our wonderful interviewees who joined us “on the white sofa“ and the VDMD team for the fantastic collaboration at our joint “Space in Living” appearance at this year’s show! Based on the fair’s special event "Living in Space", we set up our “Chill Lounge” in the foyer of Hall 4.1, Stand FOY 86, where we held daily interviews with interesting personalities from the industry. The 19 short interviews focused on issues currently facing the industry. If you missed the interviews or would like to listen to them again, the videos and podcasts will be available on our website from August 2017 (in German)! This year’s appearance in Frankfurt was an incredibly enjoyable experience for everyone involved and we are very keen to intensify our dialogue with you, our valued readers – simply join our network and get involved! Your team at textile-network An association-talk: Silvia Jungbauer, Gesamtmasche; Mara Michel ,VDMD and Michael Pöhlig, IVGT. The interview was conducted by René Lang, President of VDMD (on the left)

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The international premium magazine for the textile chain 7-8/2017 The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com English edition

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TH DU: 07.04.2017 E F Inland U T U R E T H E F U T U R E O F F A S H I O N O F F A S H I O N Internationale Leitmesse für I S D I G I T A L . Technische Textilien und Vliesstoffe I S D I G I T A L . techtextil.com bs: 03.04.2017

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21.12.16 10:13 Produce Sell 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu • FOGRA 39 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu LECTRA_Fashion_PLM_210x297_print_CS6.indd 3 Learn more about Gerber’s Integrated Digital Solutions by visiting Anzeigegerbertechnology.com/download/gerbers-digital-solutions/ U3????

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