The Drinks Business
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01 Cover DB August 2018LS_Layout 1 01/08/2018 16:58 Page 1 ISSUE 193 • AUGUST 2018 ISSUE 193 • AUGUST 2018 SEAL OF APPROVAL DOES CLOSURE TYPE AFFECT HOW A WINE IS PERCEIVED? TREND SPOTTING 10 DRINKS TRENDS MAKING ARGENTINA • CLOSURES • NEW ZEALAND • SOUTH AFRICAN PINOTAGE • ORGANIC MASTERS • UK RETAIL TRENDS • SPARKLING MASTERS TRENDS • SPARKLING • ORGANIC MASTERS UK RETAIL AFRICAN PINOTAGE ARGENTINA • CLOSURES NEW ZEALAND SOUTH A SPLASH IN UK RETAIL NEW HEIGHTS HOW ARGENTINA’S MALBEC PRODUCERS ARE REACHING THEIR PEAK PLUS: NZ WINES IN RESTAURANTS SOUTH AFRICAN PINOTAGE ORGANIC MASTERS SPARKLING MASTERS • SIR IAN BOTHAM • FEVER-TREE www.thedrinksbusiness.com xxx_db_Jul_TC Arango_Drinks Business_Layout 1 22/06/2018 11:08 Page 1 01 EditorialLS _Layout 1 02/08/2018 11:00 Page 1 editorial Argentina is fortunate that its Malbec has taken on global significance, but the nation still needs to develop its offer using this newly-popular variety IN THE world of wine, few unions have emerged as successfully And the country is right to focus on perfecting its offer, rather in this century as Argentina + Malbec. We’ve seen Provence + than rushing to plant more. Not only is the volume growth for rosé come onto the scene pretty strongly, but other phenomena, Argentine wine exports slowing, but vineyard extensions are such as New Zealand + Sauvignon Blanc had an international now limited by water availability – licences to dig wells in places following before the start of the new millennium, as did Oregon like the Uco Valley haven’t been granted for the past five years to + Pinot Noir. What will be next is open to speculation, but preserve what’s left of the ground water. England + sparkling is one association tipped to gain a global Furthermore, Argentina should develop its regional identity to audience within the next decade – by which time supplies will prove it has a varied vinous offer. It doesn’t need to embrace have doubled (see our top story on page 4). grapes other than Malbec – however good its Cabernets may be – But for now, let’s focus on the known knowns – the power of to show the market that Argentina is far from a one-trick pony. Argentina + Malbec. It’s a combination still being cemented by It just needs to gradually introduce new styles tied to South American producers, as they were keen to explain at the particular places. And thankfully not only is Malbec almost start of the year, when I took part in a week-long tour of exclusively associated with Argentina, but it’s a grape that can Argentina with 40 other MWs. As plantings of Malbec increase clearly convey the impact of changing conditions over space worldwide, albeit from a small base, Argentina wants to prove as well as time. that its Malbec is unique. Not only that, but fine. And, crucially, Argentina is fortunate that its Malbec has taken on global stylistically diverse. significance, but the nation still needs to develop its offer using While the mainstream wine consumer may see Argentine this newly-popular variety, both to retain the interest of Malbec as synonymous with deeply-coloured, juicy red that’s consumers, and stay ahead of the competition. perfect for consuming with marbled meat, Argentine producers view this grape as a medium for conveying this nation’s varied terroir (see cover story, pages 32-44). Whether it’s due to soil type, climate, elevation, vine selection, or vineyard age and PATRICK SCHMITT MW management, as well as winemaking techniques, Argentine EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Malbec can take on many forms, from the herbal, aromatic, peppery styles to the concentrated, tannic, chocolate-laden types. However, it’s greatest expressions are yet to come, as the plantations in high quality areas such at Uco Valley GI Gualtallary are still relatively young. • Editor-in-Chief Patrick Schmitt MW • Chairman & Publisher Anthony Hawser • Editor Lucy Shaw • Deputy Chairman David Rose • Managing Editor Lauren Eads • Art Director Alan MacKenzie-Morris • Fine Wine Editor Rupert Millar • Director of Sales Spirits Bert Grant Printed by Buxton Press, • Retail Editor Arabella Mileham • Director of Sales Drinks Andrew Oliver winner of PrintWeek’s Company of the Year • News and Website Editor Phoebe French • Marketing Director David Hennelly • Global Sales Emily Saunderson 2011, 2012, 2015 and 2016 • Staff Writer Edith Hancock • Advertising Manager Marcus Clark PEFC Certified • Contributing Editor Tim Atkin MW • Contributor James Lawrence • Research & Events Emily Tedder • Events Director Chloé Beral This product is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources • Consultant Jack Keenan • US Consultant Clint Rodenberg • Sales Manager Sophie Raichura • Events Executive Sophie Allan PEFC/16-33-576 www.pefc.org • Sub Editor Adrian Arratoon • Production Manager Mile Budimir • Subscriptions Sales Manager Lewis O’Sullivan Published by: The Drinks Business, Wigglesworth House, Printed by: Buxton Press • ISSN: 1477-7495 Fourth Floor, 69 Southwark Bridge Road, London SE1 9HH Annual subscription: UK: £168 • Europe: £216 • Rest of Tel: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 • Fax: +44 (0)20 7803 2421 world: £258 • Subscription enquiries: Lewis O’Sullivan • E-mail: [email protected] www.thedrinksbusiness.com 1 02-03 Contents AALS_Layout 1 01/08/2018 17:04 Page 2 contents 26 64 news & views 64 new zealand UK consumers are keen to discover New x4 top story Zealand’s wine treasures beyond Sauvignon Producers are confident that the 2018 vintage could be the best ever for English wine 72 organic masters The best of the world’s organic wines are put features to the test in our latest competition 76 uk retail trends 26 big interview We examine the 10 drinks industry trends in Former cricketer Sir Ian Botham on launching UK retail that look like having staying power his own three tier wine range in the UK cover image 82 south africa iStock.com 32 argentina Could a revived Pinotage become a flag- Argentine Malbec now offers its enthusiasts a bearer for South Africa’s wine industry? kaleidoscope of different terroir-driven styles 88 sparkling masters 46 closures Our annual fizz competition offered plenty James Lawrence finds out if different closure of spectacular sparklers from all over the world types have an effect on quality perception 2 02-03 Contents AALS_Layout 1 01/08/2018 17:04 Page 3 August 2018 • issue 193 OFFICIAL WATERS OF Amcor 50 Amorim 6, 47 46 32 Ata Rangi 66 Australian Vintage 77 Barton 1792 10 Beavertown 79 Beefeater 78 Berry Bros. & Rudd 80 Bibendum 65 Bodegas Pinuaga 77 Brancott Estate 68 Bride Valley 4, 20 C&G Group 8 Camel Valley 4 Canopy Growth 14 Champagne Castelnau 22 Chapel Down 79 Château Lafite Rothschild 16 Constellation Brands 14 Conviviality 8 Cork Supply USA 58 Craggy Range 66 Curious Brewery 79 76 d’Arenberg 15 Diam 50 Discarded 80 Dog Point 66 Domaine Laroche 47 Domaine Thomson 68 Duckhorn 14 Felton Road 56, 66 Fifth Spire 79 Fourpure 12 Glenfiddich 79 Gordon’s 78 Greywacke 66 Haichang Group 12 Herti JSC 50 Hush Heath 80 Invivo 10, 68 Jacquart 16 Kirin 12 Kosta Browne 14 Labrenta 54 marketing people Lagunitas 79 Lanson 18 Lion 12 x96 campaigns 110 moves and q&a Long Pond Distillery 6 Monkey Shoulder extends New York The Benevolent announces new chairman; Majestic Wine 56, 77 Mamma Beer 24 pop-up; top French estates fight label plans Q&A with Marcos Fernández of Doña Paula MA Silva 58 McQueen 78 Nederburg 24 x98 new products 116 salud! New Zealand Winegrowers 68 Pol Roger Brut Rosé 2009; Jack Raft Lanson at Wimbledon; Chivas Masters Penfolds 14 Province Brand 14 Ammonite Craft Cider; Keir Tua Rita global champion; Bollinger at Ascot Pyros Wines 20 Rathfinny 4 Rusden Wines 47 fine wine Sacred Hill 47 Sazerac 10 Seedlip 77 104 update Seresin 66 How Pingus took on the counterfeiters Small Beer Co. 77 Stonegate 22 and helped smash a wine forgery ring Tanqueray 78 Tapì 54 The Macallan 8 106 monitor The Magnum Company 78 High prices for the 2017 en primeur The New Zealand Cellar 67 The Portuguese Cork Association54 campaign results in a sales drop The Wine Society 56 Treasury Wine Estates 14 Trefinos USA 58 Trinity Hill Homage 66 Two Paddocks 66 Vidal Estate 18 Vinolok 52 Vinventions 54 William Grant & Sons 76 Yealands Estate 12 3 4-5 News AALS_Layout 1 01/08/2018 17:26 Page 4 top story ENGLISH WINE – WILL THE 2018 BE THE BEST VINTAGE EVER? Last year’s production levels of English sparkling amounted to around 4 million bottles (from a total English wine output of 5.9m), with supply projected to reach 6m this year, and 8m-10m bottles within the next 10 years, based on a large increase in plantations over the past three to five years, with more to come. This will make English fizz a sizeable category for a product that’s hardly cheap. Indeed, to put this in perspective, a 10m-bottle supply would represent more than one third the market for Champagne in the UK, which was 27.7m bottles in 2017. Increased quaity Nevertheless, the producers of English sparkling wine are optimistic, citing the increased quality of the product, particularly the potential brilliance of the 2018 harvest; the strength of the brands in the market – unlike Champagne there is no ‘generic’ or ‘private-label’ business to speak of – With unusually warm and sunny conditions in During a telephone interview with db, he said the growing interest in English fizz from UK the UK throughout June and July, producers are he was a “happy bunny”, noting that the consumers, and, finally, the possibility of a on course to produce what some are calling their conditions this year were so good that he was healthy export business.