Summer Newsletter 2019

Walrus, Franz Josef Land Contents A warm welcome from all of us at Naturetrek! Our operations team has been busy over recent take us to Nagarhole National Park in India for Welcome from the Team! 1 weeks planning the eighteen new holidays featured Black Panthers, Canada (a new tour to eastern in this newsletter. Canada and one to the Rockies), South Africa (a News & Events 2-3 new tour dedicated to finding Caracals), the USA Many of you have travelled to the Poles with us in (two new tours to California and the Dakotas), Writing Competition Winners 4-5 recent years on our charters to Antarctica or to Cambodia and, finally, the Bahamas where we Spitsbergen. We’re excited to announce a new follow in the footsteps of Steve Backshall and the cruise for 2021 to the little-explored Franz Josef Blue Planet Live team in search of the Caribbean’s Wildlife Photography Tips 6 Land in Arctic Russia. This will be the first ever full- shark population! Last but not least, we add to our boat wildlife charter to explore this remote, ice- unrivalled range of wildlife holidays in the UK with a Tour Leader Spotlight 7 encircled archipelago, which offers some of the new short break in Dumfries and Galloway. best Polar Bear, Walrus and high Arctic wildlife- French Pyrenees Wildlife Festival 8 viewing on Earth. Join us aboard the ice- The personality and field skills of the tour leader strengthened MV Sea Spirit to explore this on a wildlife holiday can ‘make or break’ the Realm of the Siberian Tiger 9 inaccessible world of shimmering icebergs and experience. We are very proud of our outstanding seabird-crowded cliffs (pages 10-11). team of Naturetrek tour leaders so, to kick off a Cruise News 10-11 new series, to be continued in our monthly Having celebrated our 30th anniversary there with e-newsletters, is an interview with botanist David two full groups across two weeks in 2016, we’ve Tattersfield (page 7). Tailormade Holidays 12 chosen to once again lay on our popular wildlife festival concept in the French Pyrenees in June We also include two runner-up entries from our Realm of the Black Panther 13 2020 – turn to page 8 for details. Also on the 2018 writing competition, exciting news from festival front, we will be taking over Napo Wildlife Siberia (page 9), and a news and events piece New Tours for 2019/20 14-19 Centre in the Ecuadorian Amazon in February 2021 (pages 2-3) on where you can come to meet us to for another wildlife festival offering some of the talk through your wildlife holiday plans for 2019, Late Availability 20 Amazon’s best birding and mammal-watching 2020 and beyond. We’d love to see you at one of (page 14). Other new tours in 2019 and 2020 will these events!

page one Programme of Speakers: Birdfair 2019 NEWS IN BRIEF 16-18 August 2019 • Rutland Water Friday 16th August 11.30am – 11.50am Tim Melling Wild China – Sichuan's Birds & Mammals (Harrier Marquee) 12.30pm – 12.50pm Ben Chapple The Birds & Mammals of South Africa's Kruger National Park (Hobby Marquee) 1.00pm – 1.20pm Kerrie Porteous Madagascar's Endemic Wildlife (Osprey Marquee) 2.30pm – 2.50pm Tom Mabbett Borneo – In Search of the Clouded Leopard (Harrier Marquee) 3.00pm – 3.20pm Andy Tucker Tigers, Leopards & Sloth Bears – The Best of India (Hobby Marquee) 3.30pm – 3.50pm Tim Melling The Wildlife of the Brazilian Pantanal (Osprey Marquee) Saturday 17th August British Birdwatching Fair 11.30am – 11.50am Tim Melling The Falklands, South Georgia & Antarctica – The Wildlife of the Birdfair 2019 Southern Oceans (Harrier Marquee) 12.30pm – 12.50pm Tim Melling The Birds & Whales of Mexico’s A Date for the Diary! Baja Peninsula & Sea of Cortez (Hobby Marquee) Once again we look forward to seeing as many of you as possible at our stand at the annual British Birdwatching Fair, co-sponsored by 1.00pm – 1.20pm Tom Mabbett Borneo – In Search of the Naturetrek and held at Rutland Water from Friday 16th to Sunday 18th Clouded Leopard August (inclusive). We also invite you to join us for a drink and nibbles (Osprey Marquee) on Saturday 17th August at 4.30pm. 2.30pm – 2.50pm Paul Stanbury Wild Japan in Winter (Harrier Marquee) As usual at this event, each day Naturetrek staff and tour leaders will 3.00pm – 3.20pm Andy Tucker Lynx & Wolf Watching in Spain be giving illustrated presentations in the Birdfair’s lecture marquees (Hobby Marquee) (‘Osprey’, ‘Hobby’ and ‘Harrier’), as detailed opposite. Please do join us in our usual spot in marquee 6, stand 38/39/40. Many of our staff 3.30pm – 3.50pm Tim Melling Ethiopia's Wildlife Highlights and tour leaders will be attending, including Andy Tucker, Paul (Osprey Marquee) Stanbury, Tim Melling, Kerrie Porteous, Sara Frost, David Phillips, Tom Mabbett, Ben Chapple, Rajan Jolly, Georgie Head and Alison Steel. Sunday 18th August 11.30am – 11.50am Tim Melling Crete's Birds & Flowers We will be sending you our 2020 brochure during the week of 12th (Harrier Marquee) August, so that you have your copy prior to the Birdfair. We look 12.30pm – 12.50pm Tim Melling Sweden’s Wildlife through the forward to seeing you there. Seasons (Hobby Marquee) 1.00pm – 1.20pm Sara Frost St Kilda & the Hebrides – Islands on the Edge of the Atlantic (Harrier Marquee) 2.30pm – 2.50pm Tim Melling The Wildlife of the Brazilian Pantanal (Harrier Marquee) 3.00pm – 3.20pm Paul Stanbury Spitsbergen – Realm of the Polar Bear (Hobby Marquee) 3.30pm – 3.50pm Tim Melling Polar Photography from Pole to Osprey Andy in action at the Birdfair Pole (Osprey Marquee)

Naturetrek Our Venues: Newcastle – Monday 4th November 2019 Presentation Harrogate – Tuesday 5th November 2019 Evenings 2019/20 Martin Mere WWT – Wednesday 6th November 2019 Chester – Thursday 7th November 2019 This year we will be presenting our annual Evesham – Friday 8th November 2019 series of illustrated talks in November 2019 Winchester – Monday 18th November 2019 and January 2020. These offer you the chance Exeter – Tuesday 19th November 2019 to come and meet us, discuss your holiday Slimbridge WWT – Wednesday 20th November 2019 plans and enjoy a selection of illustrated Dorking – Thursday 21st November 2019 presentations by our top wildlife tour leaders London – Friday 22nd November 2019 about some of our most popular wildlife London – Tuesday 7th January 2020 destinations. Please find opposite our planned Dorking – Wednesday 8th January 2020 schedule for November 2019 and January Winchester – Thursday 9th January 2020 2020. Locations and speakers will be confirmed nearer the time. Please email Amersham – Friday 10th January 2020 [email protected] to book your free Tunbridge Wells – Monday 13th January 2020 tickets or call 01962 733051. We look forward Welney WWT – Tuesday 14th January 2020 to seeing you there! Oxford – Wednesday 15th January 2020 (WWT = Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust) Northern Hawk Owl, Norway page two Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. Join us at Cley Marshes Nature Reserve in October to meet the Naturetrek team

We are delighted to be spending the day at Cley Marshes, in north Norfolk, on Wednesday 16th October 2019. Throughout the day several of our key staff and tour leaders will be on hand to answer any holiday questions you may have and to escort walks around the nature reserve (entrance fee not included). They will also be pleased to talk to anyone interested in a private tailormade holiday as opposed to one of our escorted group tours. A series of illustrated talks will be presented throughout the day at the reserve’s excellent visitor centre, covering a range of the holidays we offer and the wildlife highlights of each. October is a wonderful time to visit the north Norfolk coastline and a prime time for enjoying a wide range of returning geese, ducks and waders and more than the occasional rarity too! A full programme of walks and talks will be available soon, as will names of the staff members and tour leaders attending.

To join us for the day, please call Annie Dale on 01962 733051, or email [email protected] advising her of your area of interest and likely time of arrival to assist our planning. Pink-footed Geese

Office Open Days

If you would like some help planning your next wildlife holiday, please do visit us at our Mingledown Barn offices for tea/coffee, cakes and expert advice on one of the Naturetrek Open Days listed below (or at any other time for that matter). Our expert staff will be on hand to chat with you about your travel plans for 2019, 2020 and beyond. Wildlife walks will be offered on each Open Day, and moth-trap inspections from April to September inclusive, weather permitting.

Open Day dates for 2019/20: Fri 5th Jul, Fri 2nd Aug, Fri 6th Sep, Fri 4th Oct, Fri 1st Nov & Fri 6th Dec ’19, plus Fri 10th Jan & Fri 7th Feb ’20.

If you wish to attend, please first call Annie Dale on 01962 733051 or email [email protected] to ensure an appointment can be made with the staff member best suited to discuss your interests. Open day????????????? moth trapping

Join us at the RHS Hampton Court Flower Show in July 2019 & the Wildlife & Safari Travel Show in Harrogate in October 2019

We should be delighted to see you at the RHS Hampton Court Flower Show, at Hampton Court Palace, Surrey, from Tuesday 2nd – Sunday 7th July 2019 (Tuesday and Wednesday for RHS members only). Please visit us at stand 858 in the Country Living Marquee to discuss your botanical and natural history holiday plans for 2019 and beyond!

We will also be attending the Wildlife & Safari Travel Show in Harrogate on Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th October 2019. Do visit us at stand M226 to discuss your next wildlife holiday or Kerrie, Georgie and Andy on the Naturetrek stand African safari. We look forward to seeing you there!

Book a Naturetrek speaker

Several Naturetrek staff members – all of whom are tour leaders and expert naturalists – are regulars on the lecture circuit, speaking to a variety of birding and natural history clubs, groups and societies. If you are looking for an evening speaker please drop us a line. All of our talks are designed to be highly informative and enjoyable, and are not commercially-angled at all. They tend to focus on the wider ecology of the area, conservation issues, landscapes, background information and, of course, will offer guidance on how to see the wildlife on show if asked. For more information please call Andy Tucker on 01962 733051 or email [email protected].

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page three WRITING COMPETITION 2018 — 2ND PRIZE

The Wolves of Yellowstone National Park Second prize – Rosemary Hill Grey Wolves

Rosemary travelled on our ‘Wolves of terror of humans so, by staying in or near our vehicle, we were able to watch them going about their business undisturbed. Yellowstone National Park’ holiday in January The main pack was hidden among the pines above the road, and 2018 and wrote this evocative piece entitled below us on the river flats was a fresh Bison kill so, throughout the day, ‘Wolf Song’ about a magical day observing the Wolves were coming down from their hideout, crossing the road, and feeding in ones and twos, accompanied by Golden and Bald Eagles Wapiti Lake Wolves. and the ubiquitous Ravens. Most of the animals were the usual brownish grey, but a few were black, and there was one beautiful white have so many wonderful memories from our winter Yellowstone one, the alpha female. adventure: magnificent snow-covered mountains and forests, Ifreezing dawns when the sun shone pink on the snow and created After taking their turn, they rejoined the pack on the hillside just above enchanted frost landscapes in the low-lying mist, and diamond dust, us. Then towards evening we saw them moving silently behind the tiny glittering particles of frozen water vapour dancing in the air. trees. Suddenly the singing started. The sound is extraordinary, blood- chilling for a family on a remote homestead but for us, safely cocooned Bison were everywhere, lumbering along the roads, using their massive in our thermal layers, it brought different emotions: a wild magic, a folk heads as snow-ploughs to reach buried vegetation, and resting memory of a time when we too were hunter-gatherers, something that peacefully in the thermal areas, oblivious of the danger. Foxes hunted few in our modern world have had the privilege of experiencing. nearby, unconcerned at our presence. They have much thicker, redder coats than British foxes and fluffier tails, perfect blankets for small The singing went on for several minutes, and being so close we could animals on bitter nights. Bighorn rams grazed on a bank, sizing each pick out the individual voices, some gruff, some lighter, blending as the other up before clashing their huge horns together with an explosive sound rose and fell. Then it finished as suddenly as it had begun; a sound. breathtaking and moving experience, an intimate glimpse of much- maligned and persecuted animals, strengthening their pack bond by We all agreed though, that the climax was hearing the Wolves sing. Our making music together, and sending out the message “We are the Wolves were the Wapiti Lake pack, a flourishing group of about 20 Wapiti Lake pack and this is our valley, don’t mess with us.” animals, and we spent most of one day watching them. Since their Wolves have been driven to the wildest fringes of our world but are reintroduction to Yellowstone, starting in 1995, Wolves have been doing clinging on there through intelligence and teamwork; a glimpse of our well there, and as they are now protected they have lost some of their deep past; maybe even a glimmer of hope for the future.

Tour details: The Wolves of Yellowstone Dates: Fri 10th – Mon 20th Jan ’20 Cost: £6,295 Website tour code: USA09 Yellowstone in Spring Dates: Tue 2nd – Mon 15th Jun ’20 Cost: £6,795 Website tour code: USA12 Yellowstone in Fall Dates: Tue 22nd Sep – Mon 5th Oct ’20 Cost: £6,595 Website tour code: USA11 For further details please call David Phillips on 01962 Golden Eagle American Bison 733051 or email [email protected] page four Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. WRITING COMPETITION 2018 — 3RD PRIZE

Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands Third prize – Anne Balfour Common Dolphins

Anne travelled on our ‘Ecuador & the along the whole length of the coastline. Hundreds of animals. Incredible. Galápagos Islands’ holiday in January 2018 and Then something utterly amazing happened. Something which I will vividly describes the thrill of crossing the never forget. The dolphins started to jump. I ran to the stern to get a equator, accompanied by a huge pod of better view and was met by Juan coming up the stairs. He had his guitar with him. The captain had already slowed the boat as we were dolphins. about to cross the equator and the plan was to have a party to celebrate. It seemed that the invitations had been extended far flew up from my seat. The seat in front of the bridge, overlooking beyond our humble boat to the entire marine population of the the sea ahead of us, which I had dutifully occupied for the last Galápagos. And they were not just keen to join us. But to party hard. Ithree days during every crossing we’d made up the west coast of Isla Isabela. Juan, our guide, had told us that this was the best place Juan burst into song, Francisco handed out cocktails and the in the Galápagos to see cetaceans. And with his 30 years of guiding dolphins leaped for all they were worth. They jumped solo. They experience and celebrity-like status in these islands I had no reason jumped in unison. They jumped forwards. They jumped backwards. to doubt him. However, up until this moment I had seen nothing more They jumped low. They jumped high. They jumped higher and further than the distant splash of a Manta Ray re-entering the water with a than I ever thought possible. And I desperately wanted to join them. crash, having leaped high into the air in an attempt to dislodge To be torpedoing through the water, accelerating towards the surface, unwanted passengers. But here, now, on the horizon in front of us, I breaking free and feeling the wind against my skin as I leaped high could see something. Something different. These weren’t splashes. into the air, observing all around me, before descending and being They were blows. There were lots of them. And we were heading enveloped by the sea once more. Scientists would argue that the straight towards them. dolphins are using this behaviour to communicate, get a better view of prey, demonstrate their strength and agility, clean their skin like the I shouted. Then more shouts went out around the boat until our whole Mantas I’d seen previously. But maybe, just maybe, we were watching group was up on deck, laughing, gasping, whooping, pointing nothing more than pure, unadulterated, shameless fun. My 4-year-old cameras, pointing binoculars; just pointing. It didn’t take long for our niece certainly thought so when I showed her my video a few days boat to catch up with them. And I realised that this was a massive later. She ‘wheeeeed’ along with every leap. Her inner dolphin being pod. A super pod. Pod upon pod of Bottlenose Dolphins, Common released just as mine had been. Fun is infectious no matter what Dolphins and Short-finned Pilot Whales. They were stretched out animal you are!

Tour details:

If you would like the chance to cruise around Darwin’s famous islands we will be offering various departures throughout 2019, 2020 and beyond. Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands Cost: from £5,995 Website tour code: ECU10, ECU12 & ECU15

For further details please call Andy Tucker on 01962 733051 or email Great Frigatebird Land Iguana [email protected]

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page five increase, depth of field decreases. For DSLR users, the most popular (and fairly inexpensive) 70-200mm or 100-400mm telephoto lens allow WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS creative use of depth of field. Many of our clients also achieve fantastic results with relatively cheap super-zoom bridge cameras. 4. Convey emotion Humans are social creatures, we focus heavily on our conversation partner’s eyes to gauge their thoughts and emotions. We do the same thing when we see a wildlife image, our attention is naturally drawn to the subject’s eyes, which can convey much emotion. For this reason it is imperative that eyes are kept in sharp focus! Another general rule is to be at eye-level when photographing your subject. This can help the viewer relate to the subject, by presenting the animal and its environment from the animal’s perspective. This rule pertains mainly to animals Green Forest Lizard, Sri Lanka with emotive eyes, such as mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians. Understanding the rule will allow you to know when to break it. For example, when photographing a butterfly, its Wildlife colourful wings become the main subject, so they are usually photographed from above. Photography Tips 5. Visit a new location! This suggestion might seem a little self-serving – of course we want you to join us on one of our Website and Media Assistant Tom Ambrose, and exciting wildlife holidays – but photographing the popular Tour Leader Tim Melling, offer tips and same locations and subjects can stifle creativity, and visiting a new location can be an inspirational insight on how beginner photographers can make antidote! the most of their wildlife holiday and return home Although all of our tours offer wonderful photographic opportunities, those of you with a with that perfect image. particular interest in photography should consider our exciting range of dedicated photography nterest in wildlife photography has increased holidays, which are designed to put you in the dramatically over recent years. Although there right place at the right time. With the help of a Iare unique and beautiful images to be captured professional photographer, you’ll be sure to all around us here in the UK, our overseas capture some memorable moments whilst holidays open the door to another, incomparably improving your technique and eye for composition diverse, range of exciting birds, mammals, plants, along the way! insects and landscapes at which to point your lens and hone your photographic skills.

Capturing good wildlife photos is never easy and Little Forktail, China taking that perfect shot is a challenge for all photographers, whether experienced ‘pro’ or a called ‘golden hour’ (around dawn and dusk) in complete beginner. Your subject may not always search of dramatic results. Using your camera cooperate, windows of opportunity are often brief, only at dawn and dusk on a wildlife holiday would and good weather and lighting cannot be be tremendously wasteful, however, so it is assured. Here are our top tips for capturing important to understand how to make the most of whatever light is available. memorable images. Different lighting conditions evoke different King Penguins, South Georgia 1. Get to know your camera emotions; knowing which will work best for your Wildlife moments are often fleeting, so being ‘quick subject, and the feeling you wish to convey, is Photography tour details: on the draw’ is vital. Most photographers keep their vital. Backlighting and rim lighting work well for camera on a standby setting (rather than switching furry animals, especially those with an interesting Madagascar it off), allowing them to capture an unexpected silhouette. Warm light emitted when the sun is low Dates: Mon 22nd Jul – Sat 10th Aug ’19 & opportunity almost instantly. Familiarity with your on the horizon will lead to an emotionally ‘warm’ Mon 17th Aug – Sat 5th Sep ’20 camera controls is also vital, as quick adjustments photo. Diffuse light from an overcast sky is Cost: from £7,995 often need to be made! excellent for colour and definition, which are Website tour code: MDG09 important in macro photography. Even harsh, Gambia in Style 2. Watch the light midday light can be used to create striking black Dates: Fri 21st – Fri 28th Feb ’20 The word photograph derives from the Greek for and white images! ‘drawing with light’, so this is perhaps the most Cost: £2,495 important tip of all! ‘Good’ light can turn an 3. Isolate your subject Website tour code: GMB04 average photograph into a great one, and for this Costa Rica reason many photographers go out during the so- (depth of field) Many wild animals are hesitant to venture far from Dates: Sat 28th Mar – Sun 12th Apr ’20 cover. Predators must conceal themselves as they Cost: £5,995 stalk prey, which in turn must try to avoid being Website tour code: CRI06 eaten, either by not being spotted in the first place, Birds & Mammals of the or by escaping effectively. Cover, often in the form Cairngorms of vegetation, can be a distracting element to a Dates: Mon 30th Mar – Sat 4th Apr ’20 photographer and, in the worst cases, can even Cost: £1,795 make it hard to find the intended subject! Website tour code: GBR53 A long lens coupled with a wide aperture is an For our full range of photography tours, or more excellent solution to this problem. When focused details of those outlined above, please call Tom Ambrose on 01962 733051 or email Puma Cub, Chile correctly, it will render the subject on a blurred, out of focus background. As focal length and aperture [email protected] page six Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. TOUR LEADER SPOTLIGHT

Tour Leader Spotlight Vanilla Orchid David Tattersfield

David Tattersfield (on the left!)

Marketing Manager, Sara Frost, corners tour the National Trust for Scotland and then took charge of their plantsman’s garden at Branklyn, Perth. I have spent the last 20 years leading for Naturetrek.” leader David Tattersfield in the Swiss Alps – in When was your first Naturetrek tour? one of those rare moments when he’s not on his “In 1999, I was privileged to be invited to lead my first Naturetrek trip to the hands and knees studying the local flora – and remote Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. At the time, Bhutan had not long opened its borders to Western visitors and its wonderful people, rich culture shines a light on what makes one of the UK’s and fabulous natural wealth were known mainly from expeditions by early most experienced and respected botanists tick. explorers. It was still a country that had yet to embrace television and travelling there was not without some difficulties. Much, of course, has changed since neeling down on a sunny mountainside meadow in the Swiss Alps, I was then, but it still provides an incomparable experience in one of the most pristine instructed by our tour leader, David Tattersfield, to plunge my nose into a environments on the planet.” Kgroup of Vanilla Orchids and give them a good sniff. Eager to oblige, I What conservation issues concern you most? bent down and took a deep breath. The rich syrupy scent of honey and vanilla, “Without doubt, loss of habitat, due to the pressures imposed by human emanating from this small, unassuming, alpine flower was intoxicating. Looking population, poses the greatest threat to wildlife. We should be doing all we can up, I saw 14 rear ends protruding into the air, as the rest of the group did the to foster an appreciation of our wild heritage and encourage measures to same! “Although this is known as a Vanilla Orchid, the vanilla we’re familiar with protect it. Education holds the key to this, so that future generations can comes from another orchid, in the genus Vanilla, now widely cultivated in continue to enjoy the natural world.” Madagascar. This coincidence reflects the complex chemistry that has evolved in this wonderfully diverse family of plants”, David explained as we continued What do you enjoy most about leading wildlife sniffing our way through the meadow. holidays? During our week enjoying the ‘Alpine Flowers of the Upper Engadine’, David “Tour leading is an opportunity to share my enthusiasm for the places we visit guided us on daily botanical walks through sunny meadows, along mountain and the wildlife we encounter, and inspiring others in the process gives me forest trails and glacial rivers, keeping us well-fuelled with fresh breads, cured great satisfaction.” meats, delicious Swiss cheeses, salads and, of course, Swiss chocolate! With What are you reading at the moment? an incredibly patient disposition, David is a natural-born educator, with encyclopaedic knowledge. The side of a mountain is his classroom and the “I usually have my head in a flora book, but currently, I am reading The Rise meadow his blackboard! He has been leading Naturetrek tours in Switzerland and Fall of the Dinosaurs, by Steve Brusatte. It gives a new insight into the for 20 years, yet he was introducing us to plants and flowers as enthusiastically evolution and extinction of these amazing creatures and their relevance to the as if it was his first ever visit. One afternoon, we stopped at a scenic alpine café modern world.” for a hot chocolate and apricot tart. He doesn’t stand still for long, however, so I What tours are you due to lead in 2019/20? quickly took the opportunity to pin him down and quiz him on how it all “In Europe, I will be leading tours to the French Pyrenees, Switzerland and started… Cyprus. Further afield my trips will include Bhutan, South Africa’s Cape and the So, David, when did your interest in wildlife begin? Drakensberg – it’s going to be another busy couple of years!” “I was fortunate to spend my childhood exploring the Yorkshire Dales and Lake District, where I developed a fascination for all aspects of natural history. A love Tour details: of mountains and a desire to travel led to me trekking in Europe, North Africa, David will be leading the following tours in 2019, 2020 and beyond: The French the Himalaya, Australia and North America. I’ve had a particular fascination for botany for as long as I can remember.” Pyrenees (FRA20), Cyprus in Autumn (CYP06), South Africa – Drakensberg (ZAF02), South Africa – Cape & Namaqualand (ZAF10), Bhutan’s Bumthang What did you do before working for Naturetrek? Valley (BTN01), Switzerland – Upper Engadine (CHE01) and Wengen (CHE02). “After graduating in botany and researching upland ecology for my PhD, I worked for the Nature Conservancy Council in Upper Teesdale and Scotland. For additional information on all of these holidays please visit Following this, I joined the staff at Threave School of Practical Gardening with www.naturetrek.co.uk, call 01962 733051 or email [email protected]

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page seven 2020 WILDLIFE FESTIVAL

Join us in the French Pyrenees … on our June 2020 European Wildlife Festival!

Cirque de Gavarnie

We are delighted to have booked all of the Hôtel la Brèche de Roland’s 25 rooms from 3rd – 10th June 2020. From this

friendly, family-run hotel we intend to explore the surrounding Lammergeier region – our favourite part of the spectacular French Pyrenees – and enjoy its fabulous variety of birds, wild flowers, butterflies, Phillipe’s hotel. It was the perfect destination for the all-round natural history enthusiast … moths and mammals. and one that we’ve been returning to every year since! ack in the summer of 2016, to celebrate Our story together began with the first Gulf Naturetrek’s 30th anniversary, we took War. When Saddam Hussein’s forces invaded So, once again in June 2020, we’d like to Bover the Hôtel la Brèche de Roland for Kuwait in August 1990, Naturetrek’s founders, invite as many of you as possible to fill the two consecutive weeks, spending a wonderful David and Maryanne Mills, had been running Hôtel la Brèche de Roland. You will be joined time with two successive groups amidst their business for four years exclusively to by a number of long-standing Naturetrek grandiose Pyrenean scenery, delightful sunny long-haul destinations, particularly to those in leaders, amongst them expert birders, weather and with a varied and flexible the Himalaya and the rest of the Indian botanists and entomologists who will be programme of wildlife walks and excursions. subcontinent. However, from August 1990 looking for butterflies by day and running a Such was the success of that fortnight, with until the ensuing war of early 1991 concluded moth trap by night. Such long-standing and Golden Eagles, Citril Finches, a Wallcreeper, at the end of February, Naturetrek bookings popular leaders as David Tattersfield, Jason Black and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, ceased. Nobody was prepared to book a Mitchell and Tony Williams look forward to Lammergeiers, Marmots, Chamois and a long-haul holiday at this time, let alone one returning to the area with us. They will offer dazzling array of butterflies and alpine overflying the Gulf region! Their business had you a varied programme of morning and flowers, that we ran a similar festival in the come to a complete standstill and so they afternoon activities each day which will Dolomites in 2018 and Abruzzo in 2019. For decided to launch a programme of European include both long and short walks, while, for 2020 we have decided to repeat the festival in holidays on which to fall back at such difficult those less keen to walk, there will be minibus the French Pyrenees, four years after our times. So it was, in June 1991, that Maryanne excursions to spectacular wildlife hotspots. inaugural event. and David – and a one-year-old baby – There will be natural history walks and strolls, headed to the French Pyrenees to see what raptor and Wallcreeper watches, birding, Naturetrek and Odile and Phillipe Pujo, the the area had to offer. The following year, in butterfly and botany excursions, mammal owners of the Hôtel la Brèche de Roland, go June 1992, David and Maryanne returned to forays, moth traps and much more during our back a long way. Indeed we have worked with the Pyrenees, accompanied by botanist week-long stay in the wonderful high them for almost 30 years, longer than any Martin Beaton and his wife Louise, to run two Pyrenees sustained by Phillipe and Odile’s other hotelier in Naturetrek’s 33-year history. full groups back-to-back from Odile and outstanding cuisine and friendly hospitality!

Tour details:

Dates: Wed 3rd – Wed 10th Jun ’20 Cost: £1,595 Single room supplement: £180 Website tour code: FRA20 So please join us, registering your interest or requesting an itinerary, by calling Andy Tucker on 01962 733051 or emailing [email protected] Apollo Daphne cneorum page eight Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. Asiatic Black Bear

Realm of the Siberian Tiger

Siberian Tiger Siberian Rubythroat

Operations Assistant, Ben Chapple, describes his By early summer (June departures) the snow will be long gone, replaced by carpets of flowers, exciting trip to the Russian Far East in search of the and scenic rivers and streams will have started flowing again. The taiga, eerily quiet in winter, will iconic Siberian Tiger and outlines our pioneering new be alive with birdsong; the region’s breeding species include Falcated Duck, Blue-and-white tours to this rarely-visited region of the world. Flycatcher, Siberian Rubythroat and the critically endangered Yellow-breasted Bunting. We will, of he Russian Far East is a remote, sparsely excitement, would then relate extraordinary course, also search for evidence of Tigers such populated and profoundly wild place, stories of life in the forest: the time a hunting as pug and scratch-marks and regularly check Twhere vast taiga forests still support some Tiger flew past him in pursuit of a boar, and how camera traps. of our planet’s most dramatic wildlife. The most another ambled past the kitchen window during iconic of all is the magnificent, and near-mythical, dinner, just a month before my visit. Autumn (August departures), when the leaves Siberian (Amur) Tiger. Over 500 individuals roam are turning, is the most beautiful time in the taiga. these woods and mountains – nowhere else on Although I didn’t see a Tiger during my short stay, What’s more, in this season Durminskoye Earth do so many Tigers live in the company of it is hard to properly describe how it felt to walk in becomes one of the best places in the world to so few people. their footprints, and to experience that heady mix see Asiatic Black Bears. Normally elusive, their of adrenaline, fear and anticipation that can only activity peaks as they begin to fatten up for Most of these striped felines inhabit the rugged come from sharing space with a large predator. hibernation. As per the summer tours, we will and starkly beautiful mountains of the Sikhote- For me, the continued existence of the Siberian also search for evidence of Tigers, plus look for Alin. Nestled in their northern foothills is the Tiger is a sign of hope – a reminder that there are any breeding birds that have not yet left for Durminskoye Reserve, a 200 square kilometre still places where the wild world makes a final warmer climes. expanse of rivers, rocky crags and dense birch stand. I was only slightly annoyed to hear that Even if we are not lucky enough to see a groves. This wildlife haven is managed by one was seen the day after I left! renowned conservationist Alexander Batalov; for Siberian Tiger, simply feeling their presence all 30 years he and his team have guarded this On our new ‘Realm of the Siberian Tiger’ tour, around us should be a powerful and rewarding forest, and Durminskoye now has a healthy you too can travel right to the heart of big cat experience. Furthermore, Alexander relies on number of Tigers. Although they remain territory. We will be running departures to tourism to fund his vital conservation work – supremely elusive, there is nowhere better to Durminskoye at three distinct times of year: mostly monitoring, anti-poaching patrols and search for this majestic big cat. winter, early summer and autumn, each of which education. At a time when this big cat is will have a slightly different focus. increasingly threatened by illegal human I had the privilege of visiting Durminskoye in early activity, our visit will help to ensure that February this year; blanketed in thick snow, the In winter (February departures), most of our time Durminskoye continues to be a safe haven for frozen winter woodland was thrilling to explore. will be dedicated to searching for evidence of the Siberian Tiger. Alexander and I found fresh tracks, delicately Tigers; this is the best season to look for tracks preserved in white, and examined great gouges and scratch-marks, capture camera trap images, in the bark of ancient trees. Some of these claw- and maybe even catch a glimpse of a wild Tour details: marks were over ten feet above the ground, and Siberian Tiger in the snow. General wildlife- could only have been made by Durminskoye’s watching is hard work, but we could find other Dates: Sat 29th Feb – Sun 8th Mar, enormous dominant male, or ‘Great King’, as the mammals and birds such as Manchurian Deer, Sat 30th May – Sun 7th Jun & Sat 1st – indigenous Udege people call him. A lot of Wild Boar, Sable, Azure-winged Magpie, Siberian Sun 9th Aug ’20 Alexander’s work involves monitoring the Tiger Jay and Ural Owl. Those wishing to maximise Cost: from £5,895 population, and I also helped with the setting and their chances of a Tiger sighting (or those Website tour code: RUS03 checking of camera traps. Every evening after wanting to see the critically endangered Amur dinner we would review the results, finding Leopard) should consider extending the tour with For further details please call Ben Chapple on spectacular images not just of Tigers, but also of time in the forest hides of Land of the Leopard 01962 733051 or email [email protected] Sable, Wild Boar and even Eurasian Lynx. National Park ... although this is only for the Alexander, his face brimming with boyish dedicated and hardy!

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page nine CRUISE NEWS

Cruise News Hornsund, Spitsbergen

Operations Manager, Paul Stanbury, Franz Josef Land – Russia’s Arctic offers an update on our exciting Wilderness In July 2021 we will be chartering the 114-berth, ice-strengthened, MV range of small-ship wildlife cruises, Sea Spirit to explore one of the Arctic's most remote and little-visited archipelagos, Franz Josef Land. This remote Polar outpost straddles the focusing in particular on our Polar 80 degrees line of latitude (90 degrees is the North Pole!), and visits here are strictly controlled by the Russian authorities. Therefore very few expeditions for 2020 and 2021. vessels get the privilege to sail through these icy waters and marvel at the islands’ spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. One such vessel n 26th June this year – only a few days after this newsletter is due to is the MV Sea Spirit. This 14-day holiday, including a 12-night cruise, land on your doormat – the MS Quest will be cruising out of begins in Svalbard’s administrative capital, Longyearbyen, from where OLongyearbyen on the Arctic island of Spitsbergen to begin our annual we head out across the Barents Sea to Franz Josef Land. We then have 9-night exploration of this breathtaking Polar wilderness. We have been eight days to explore the islands, our course being dictated by the operating expedition cruises here for over 20 years and have been chartering prevailing ice conditions and the experience of our captain and ships for 13 of those. Starting with small 50-berth vessels, our charter vessels expedition staff. This is the Arctic of old, still largely untouched by the have gradually increased in size, culminating in our chartering of the excellent relentless march of humankind and home to a wonderful variety and 115-berth MV Ortelius (which we still use for all of our Antarctica cruises). For abundance of Polar wildlife. Polar Bears patrol the encircling pack-ice 2019 and beyond, however, we have opted to return to smaller vessels where and are often seen on the crossings to and from Franz Josef Land and possible and have chartered the 50-berth MS Quest. This small, ice- wandering the islands themselves. Raucous colonies of Brünnich’s strengthened ship will be our comfortable base as we look for Walrus, Guillemots and Little Auks crowd the sea cliffs, Walruses are common Beluga, Ivory Gull, huge colonies of Little Auks and Brünnich’s Guillemots and Belugas, Humpbacks and Minke Whales are regularly seen too ... and the ‘King of the Arctic’ itself, the magnificent Polar Bear … all amongst along with plenty of Ivory Gulls and the occasional Ross’s Gull. We will some of the most breathtaking scenery on the planet! also be keeping a careful look out for one of the Arctic’s rarest cetaceans, the Bowhead Whale! This is sure to be an unforgettable All of our Polar cruises, whether Arctic or Antarctic, fill very quickly, often a cruise. As with all of our exclusive charters, our visit to Franz Josef Land year or more in advance. We usually release dates around two years before will focus exclusively on the region’s wildlife and scenery and, for those departure and would always recommend booking early, especially if you interested in natural history, there is no better way to explore these would like a choice of cabins! As usual, we are down to the last few berths remote Russian outposts than on our July 2021 cruise. We look forward on our ‘Spitsbergen – Realm of the Polar Bear’ cruise for next year (June to welcoming you on board! 2020) and our 2021 dates for Spitsbergen and Antarctica are filling fast. In addition to our annual 9-night Spitsbergen cruise, we have now finalised Dates: Fri 9th – Thu 22nd Jul ’21 plans for three new and exciting Arctic expedition cruises to operate in the Cost: from £11,995 summer of 2021. Website tour code: RUS04

MS Quest Spoon-billed Sandpiper page ten Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. Tour details:

For further details on any of our Polar cruises please call Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 or email [email protected]. A full list of all the small-ship wildlife cruises we offer follows and detailed tour itineraries for each one can be downloaded at www.naturetrek.co.uk The Falklands, South Georgia & Antarctic Peninsula (Solar Eclipse) Dates: 22nd Nov – 15th Dec ’21 Cost: from £16,595 Website tour code: ATA02 Amazon Wildlife Cruise Dates: 31st Jul – 9th Aug ’19 & 31st Jul – 9th Aug ’20 Cost: from £4,395 Website tour code: BRA07 Bali to Komodo – In Search of the Dragon! Dates: 6th – 18th Sep ’21 Cost: from £6,795 Website tour code: IDN01 Baja California & Sea of Cortez Polar Bears Dates: 21st Feb – 5th Mar & 23rd Mar – 5th Apr ’20; 6th – 19th Feb & 21st Feb – 6th Mar ’21 Cost: from £6,295 Kamchatka & Chukotka – Russia’s Ring of Fire Website tour code: MEX01 In June 2021 we will be travelling to the eastern-most edge of the Eurasian continent to Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands marvel at the spectacular landscapes and wildlife of Kamchatka and the Russian Far Dates: Various departures throughout the year. East. Edged by the ‘Pacific Ring of Fire’, one of the most geologically active regions of Cost: from £5,895 our planet, coastal Kamchatka and Chukotka are home to a wonderful abundance of Website tour code: ECU10, ECU12 & ECU15 wildlife from Brown Bears, Sea Otters, Belugas, Orcas and Pacific Walruses to Siberian Rubythroats, Laysan Albatrosses, Steller’s Eagles and a dozen species of Pacific auks, India – Brahmaputra Cruise including Whiskered, Crested and Parakeet Auklets. The region is also the only nesting Dates: 26th Mar – 8th Apr ’20 & 1st Apr – 14th Apr ’21 ground for the mythical Spoon-billed Sandpiper, one of the rarest waders in the world Cost: from £3,995 and one we will make a special effort to find. For this 16-day expedition, which includes Website tour code: IND02 a 13-night cruise, we will be chartering the 50-berth MV Spirit of Enderby, which we will Cruising through Paradise – Indonesia’s board in Kamchatka’s largest city, Petropavlovsk, before heading out to sea and crossing Raja Ampat Islands over the Kuril Trench (which has a maximum depth of over 10,500 metres!) en route to Dates: 4th – 17th Mar ’20 the Commander Islands, the most westerly of the Aleutian chain. Here we will enjoy Cost: from £6,995 colonies of Tufted Puffins and other auks, cetaceans and Sea Otters before returning Website tour code: IDN02 back to the mainland and slowly making our way north along the volcano-dotted coastline of Kamchatka and Chukotka. Brown Bears are frequently seen, Grey Whales The Maldives – Mantas, Dolphins & feed in the shallows and Harlequin Ducks bob in the surf. At Meinypil’gnyo we will Coral Reefs explore the tundra for nesting Spoon-billed Sandpipers, and other waders such as Dates: 7th – 16th Feb & 10th – 19th Nov ’20 Mongolian Plover and Long-toed Stint, before ending our cruise in the port of Anadyr on Cost: from £4,795 the edge of the Bering Sea. This is another rarely-visited region of the world that is only Website tour code: MDV01 explored by a small number of vessels. Once again, by chartering the whole ship we are able to offer you the very best wildlife experience possible, accompanied by the most Norway – Orcas, Humpbacks & experienced expedition leaders and crew. Northern Lights Dates: 3rd – 11th Jan ’20 Dates: Sun 20th Jun – Mon 5th Jul ’21 Cost: from £2,995 Cost: from £9,595 Website tour code: NOR10 Website tour code: RUS02 Spirit Bears, Grizzlies & Humpbacks – Spitsbergen – A Polar Bear Special Cruising the Great Bear Rainforest Dates: 10th – 19th Sep ’19 & 12th – 21st Sep ’20 To complement our annual 9-night expedition cruise around the Arctic islands of Cost: from £5,395 Svalbard, we are offering an additional 7-night cruise in the summer of 2021 that will Website tour code: CAN05 focus entirely on an exploration of Spitsbergen’s icy north in search of Polar Bears. By travelling a little earlier than usual, in mid June, we hope both that there will still be plenty Spitsbergen – Realm of the Polar Bear of ice for us to explore aboard our 50-berth ice-strengthened vessel, the MS Quest, but Dates: 26th Jun – 6th Jul ’20 & 27th Jun – 7th Jul ’21 that it will have melted sufficiently to allow us to access the areas favoured by the bears Cost: from £6,395 and other wildlife. Travelling any earlier in the season – such as in May – risks there being Website tour code: NOR05 too much dense ice around, which can block access to the best areas and reduce the The Solomon Islands chances of bear encounters. Although we will make a special effort to find and enjoy the Dates: 11th – 24th Nov ’21 ‘King of the Arctic’ on this cruise, we will not ignore the wonderful variety of other wildlife Cost: from £9,895 that journeys here to exploit the short, but bountiful, Svalbard summer. Arctic Foxes Website tour code: SOL01 scavenge around the base of huge seabird colonies, whilst Walruses laze on ice floes and Ivory Gulls glide serenely overhead. Grey Phalaropes, Purple Sandpipers and St Kilda & the Hebrides Barnacle Geese all breed on the tundra which will be awash with flowers at the time of Dates: 24th May – 1st Jun & 5th – 13th Jul ’20; 14th – our visit … something else you will miss if you travel much earlier in the season! 22nd May, 24th May – 1st Jun & 24th Jun – 2nd Jul ’21 Cost: from £2,695 Dates: Sun 20th – Mon 28th Jun ’21 Website tour code: GBR48 Cost: from £5,295 Website tour code: NOR01 (All 2021 dates and prices subject to confirmation).

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page eleven Tailormade

Naturetrek Tailormade to Zambia South Luangwa National Park

and exceptional Leopard encounters. It’s also one search for rarely seen creatures of the night, such In October 2018 Naturetrek’s of the best places in South Luangwa to see the as Honey Badger, African Civet, Large-spotted Tailormade Manager, Georgie highly endangered African Wild Dog, which until Genet and Giant Eagle Owl. The hours of recently was a rare sight in the park. Now, largely darkness also offer the most rewarding Head, visited Zambia to discover thanks to conservation initiatives like the ‘Zambian encounters with Leopards, Lions and other Carnivore Programme’, their population is on the predominantly nocturnal predators. some of the wildlife and lodging rise, and they are seen with increasing regularity highlights of this uniquely throughout the year. To reach Nsefu, one must A stay in South Luangwa is well complemented take a small boat across the river which, between by a visit to the Victoria Falls, a mesmerising beautiful African country. August and October, teems with strikingly spectacle and the world’s largest waterfall. There’s beautiful Southern Carmine Bee-eaters. a huge variety of ways to view this natural holiday to Zambia offers a chance to phenomenon, from walking trails on the experience Africa at its wild and untamed Today a wide variety of small and intimate camps Zimbabwean side to a helicopter journey over the Abest. A vast country of over 750,000 square dot the South Luangwa National Park, any falls themselves. Those with a taste for adventure kilometres, Zambia boasts some of the finest combination of which we would be delighted to might even like to visit the ‘Devil’s Pool’ and swim wildlife havens on Earth, from the remote and incorporate into a personalised tailormade safari. right to the very edge of the falls! Waterberry undiscovered North Luangwa National Park to the Luxury can be found in the peace and tranquillity Lodge is our favourite place to stay here, located flooded grasslands of the Busanga Plains. It is the of these simple, intimate camps, where on the Zambian side just a short drive from South Luangwa National Park, however, that unassuming locally-crafted structures blend in Livingstone Airport. This charming lodge on the undoubtedly ranks as the nation’s premier perfectly with their natural surroundings. Perhaps banks of the Zambezi is the perfect place from wilderness area, protecting over 60 species of the most exciting thing about these camps, which to explore the Falls, as well as to enjoy larger mammals and nearly 500 species of birds. however, is the possibility to walk between them peaceful sunset cruises in search of the river’s by means of slow-paced nature walks, usually prolific birdlife. Naturetrek has been visiting South Luangwa for lasting between three and five hours. These almost 30 years, but the park’s origins go back walking safaris offer a completely different A holiday to Zambia provides a perfect much further than that. In the 1950s, pioneering perspective of the park, providing a more intimate combination of fantastic wildlife, incredible conservationist Norman Carr persuaded Chief appreciation of this diverse ecosystem than could scenery and few tourists – all within a safe and Nsefu, of the local Kunda people, to set aside ever be possible from a vehicle. Guests are invited welcoming country with some of the most tribal land by the Luangwa River as a reserve. to discover the complex interactions between the experienced and personable guides in Africa. Soon after, Norman started guiding visitors insects, plants and large mammals, and follow the around the reserve and, thus, one of Africa’s first tracks, scats and signs of elusive species. ecotourism projects was born! Naturetrek Tailormade A day in South Luangwa normally begins at Sample itinerary Norman Carr’s first camp, named after Nsefu, was dawn with fresh coffee, brewed over an open fire Zambia – South Luangwa and built with six tightly packed rondavels and is still and accompanied by delicious home-made Victoria Falls open to visitors today. Nsefu Camp may lack a cakes. Early morning game drives or walking few luxuries found in some of the park’s newer safaris usually return by 11am for a hearty brunch, Day 1 Depart London. camps, but the history and wildlife of this iconic and guests spend the heat of the day relaxing in Day 2 Arrive Mfuwe, transfer Luwi area is unsurpassed. Situated in an exclusive camp. The evening drive begins at around 4pm Bush Camp, South Luangwa. sector of the park, and overlooking the mighty and continues until sundown, when a cold drink is Day 3 Luwi Bush Camp. Luangwa River, Nsefu is just a few hours’ drive typically enjoyed in a scenic riverside spot. Night Day 4/5 Nsolo Bush Camp. from the main Mfuwe gate. The area is known for drives are forbidden in many African reserves, but Day 6/7 Kakuli Bush Camp. low tourist numbers, high concentrations of game, here the slow journey back to camp is used to Day 8/9 Mchenja Bush Camp. Day 10/11 Nsefu Camp. Day 12 Fly Livingstone, transfer Waterberry Lodge. Day 13/14 Waterberry Lodge, Victoria Falls. Day 15 Depart Livingstone. Day 16 Arrive London. If you would like to discuss a Tailormade holiday to Zambia please call Georgie Head on 01962 733051 or email [email protected]. For our group tours please contact Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 or email [email protected] White-fronted Bee-eaters Leopard

page twelve For prices, to book any of the featured holidays or to make a tailormade holiday enquiry, please call Georgie Head on 01962 733051 or email [email protected] REALM OF THE BLACK PANTHER

Realm of the Black Panther Blackie and mate

Operations Manager, Rajan Jolly, outlines the We will explore the park by 4x4 vehicle, boat and on foot, allowing us to appreciate this highlights of our new 10-day holiday to India’s diverse wilderness from several distinct angles. Afternoon boat trips can be Nagarhole National Park in search of Tigers, Dholes, particularly productive, as groups of Asian Asian Elephants and, for the fortunate, perhaps the Elephant, Chital and Sambar come down to the water to drink. Smooth-coated Otter is also mythical, and rarely seen, Black Panther! a regular sight, as are Marsh Mugger Crocodiles and various waterbirds including here is something inherently mysterious spectacular Kabini River Lodge, during which Asian Openbill, Cotton Pygmy Goose and about Black Panthers. They inspire time we will thoroughly explore the reserve’s Pheasant-tailed Jacana. Nevertheless, it will Tlegends across the world, and seem to vibrant forests and waterways. Throughout our be the drives that will offer our best chance of tread a fine line between myth and reality. In stay, the Black Panther will never be far from finding ‘Blackie’. truth, they are melanistic Leopards, but this our minds. If we are lucky enough to find simple fact does not make them any less ‘Blackie’, then we may be in for a truly The final night of the tour will be spent in beguiling. These intriguing jet-black cats are memorable experience for he is renowned for Bangalore, before we catch our flight back to common only in the impenetrable rainforests providing close-up sightings, frequently using London the next day. For those wishing to of south-east Asia, where they are almost the jeep tracks to patrol his territory and remain in India, we are able to offer an extension impossible to glimpse through the thick and remaining unperturbed in the presence of to the private reserve in Wayanad Wildlife tangled vegetation. However, a few individuals vehicles. However, he remains an elusive Sanctuary, which lies on the southern edge of do occur in the more open forests of southern creature, and we certainly cannot guarantee Bandipur. Here, we will be looking for Gaur and India – real-life incarnations of Rudyard ourselves an encounter! Asian Elephant, plus many of the Southern Kipling’s Bagheera. In particular, the Kabini Indian endemics such as Malabar Pied Hornbill, Wildlife Sanctuary (part of Nagarhole National Whether we find the black Leopard or not, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Blue-winged Parakeet, Park) has become famous as the home of one Nagarhole’s abundant wildlife will be sure to Vernal Hanging Parrot, Malabar Trogon and very special dominant male, known as keep us enthralled. This region is home to mammals including Brown Palm Civet. ‘Blackie’. He controls a large swathe of the India’s largest herds of Asian Elephant, including some of the subcontinent’s last big tuskers, as reserve, and has become supremely confident Tour details: in his rule, often allowing the kinds of relaxed well as other mammals such as Gaur, Sambar encounters that would be special with a and Wild Boar. Dhole (Indian Wild Dog) is Dates: Mon 17th – Wed 26th Feb ’20 Leopard of any pelage. frequently seen, and this is also one of the best (Wayanad extension to Sat 29th Feb ’20) places in India to see the typical spotted form of Cost: £3,395 (extension: £995) Our new ‘Realm of the Black Panther’ tour Leopard, although they face increasing Website tour code: IND59 travels right into the heart of this big cat’s competition from a thriving population of Tigers! domain. We start by flying into Bangalore from Birdlife is conspicuous, and includes endemics For further details please call Rajan Jolly on where we travel straight to Nagarhole National such as Blue-winged Parakeet, Malabar Grey 01962 733051 or email [email protected] Park. Here we stay for seven nights at the Hornbill and White-bellied Treepie.

Tiger Malabar Trogon Asian Elephants

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page thirteen NEW TOUR EUROPE The Winter Birds of Dumfries & Galloway An exciting 5-day tour to Dumfries and Galloway, including time enjoying the wildfowl and waders that overwinter on the Solway Firth, as well as roosting Hen Harriers and a visit to a nearby Red Kite feeding station.

his new single-centre tour is based in St John’s Town of Dalry, an attractive village lying just south of the Carsphairn Hills and west of Dumfries. From here we will explore the varied and Twildlife-rich nature reserves of this picturesque region of Scotland, including the RSPB reserve at Mersehead and the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust reserve at Caerlaverock in which Svalbard's entire population of breeding Barnacle Geese overwinter. Caerlaverock overlooks the Solway Firth and also attracts flocks of Pink-footed Geese and a few Greenland White-fronted Geese, plus thousands of Wigeon, Gadwall, Shoveler, Pintail and other ducks. Whooper Swans overwinter here too and it is possible to get wonderful views of these majestic birds from the reserve’s comfortable Barnacle Geese hides. Feeders attract Tree Sparrows, Yellowhammers, Siskins, Lesser Redpolls and Bramblings and flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing are common. At the nearby Nith Estuary we hope to find Scaup, Red-breasted Merganser, Common Scoter and a variety of waders including, perhaps, Purple Sandpiper and – weather permitting – stunning views across the Solway.

To the west lies Loch Ryan and Wigtown Bay, both of which are excellent areas to look for Golden Plover, Slavonian Grebe, Black Guillemot and Long-tailed Duck. We also hope to see flocks of waders taking to the sky in mesmerising, swirling flocks as they move from their feeding to roosting sites. Woodlands around Loch Ken are home to Willow Tit, Sparrowhawk and Nuthatch, as well as the charismatic Red Squirrel. A nearby feeding station attracts good numbers of Red Kites in the winter, and there will be many wonderful photographic opportunities as they wheel around overhead before swooping down to snatch a morsel of food. We will end each day with an Long-tailed Duck Hen Harrier evening visit to a nearby Hen Harrier roost to watch as these elegant raptors fly in for the night. Stunning silver-bodied males with their contrasting black wing-tips, together with brown females Dates: Mon 18th – Fri 22nd Nov ’19 For further details please call and immature birds (collectively known as ‘ringtails’), roost here together, often allowing Cost: £745 Alison Steel on 01962 733051 or breathtaking views. Merlin, Short-eared Owls and Barn Owls are also commonly encountered. Website tour code: GBR66 email [email protected]

NEW TOUR The AMERICAS Ecuador – Wildlife Festival 2021 Join us at Napo Wildlife Centre in February 2021 for a 9-day festival of South American wildlife!

aturetrek wildlife festivals offer an iconic wildlife destination, exclusive use of quality accommodation and a team of our top tour leaders. Over the years this has proven to be Na popular and successful formula. On this occasion, eight years after our festival visit to nearby Sacha Lodge, we have block-booked the award-winning Napo Wildlife Centre (NWC) within Yasuní National Park in eastern Ecuador for five nights. This extremely well-appointed jungle lodge is located on the edge of an oxbow lake and was built by the local Kichwa Añangu community. It is operated on a not-for-profit basis, all proceeds being reinvested in the lodge and Napo Wildlife Centre the community. The lodge is a paradise for naturalists and birders, boasting four canopy towers, a superb network of trails branching out through ‘terra firma’ primary rainforest, a clay-lick visited by parrots and mammals, and the lake and its connecting waterways, which together offer a multitude of options for daily wildlife-watching, both on foot and by canoe. The mission of the Kichwa Añangu community and the goal for NWC is to generate environmental awareness and to maintain sustainable development in this biodiverse ecological treasure of a national park.

Mammal highlights will include Giant Otter, Equatorial and Monk Sakis, Red Howler Monkey, Night Monkey, Common Squirrel Monkey and Golden-mantled Tamarin, while there is an outside chance of Jaguarundi, Jaguar or Brazilian Tapir. Bird-wise, over 600 species have been recorded in the territory of the Kichwa Añangu, including such sought-after species as Zigzag Heron, Black-necked Red Cotinga, Yasuni Antwren, White-plumed Antbird, Salvin’s Curassow, Hoatzin, Silvered, Plumbeous, Sooty, Lunulated and Scale-backed Antbirds, and many more! At night, we retire to comfortable cabins (12 standard and 8 suites, some of which have a private jacuzzi), all with ceiling fans, electricity and a view of the lake.

Amongst several different extensions that we will be offering are a cruise around the Galápagos Islands, a stay in Mindo for antpittas, tanagers and hummingbirds, and a traverse of the eastern Giant Otter Hoatzin Andean slope, staying at Cabanas San Isidro and Papallacta.

Dates: Fri 5th – Sat 13th Feb ’21 For further details please call Cost: £3,895 Andy Tucker on 01962 733051 or Website tour code: ECU16 email [email protected]

page fourteen Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. NEW TOUR The AMERICAS The Wildlife of Canada’s Rocky Mountains A 16-day wildlife tour through Canada’s Rocky Mountains in search of its mammals, birds and spectacular scenery.

he breathtaking landscapes of the Canadian Rockies are no secret. These spectacular forested mountains and snowy peaks, which slice through Canada's provinces of Alberta and TBritish Columbia, have been attracting admirers since the country was first born 152 years ago. The best of this visual splendour is protected within the Banff, Jasper and Yoho National Parks, which offer new and dramatic vistas around every bend, from steep glacier-carved valleys and immense icefields to flower-filled meadows and vivid turquoise lakes. Within this dramatic Jasper National Park landscape lives an exciting array of mammals and birds. Both Grizzly and Black Bears patrol the forest edges, handing over control to Great Grey Owls at dusk. Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep and Mountain Goats inhabit the higher slopes, whilst Moose, Rocky Mountain Elk and Beaver live lower down. There is also a wealth of colourful birdlife to enjoy, including Harlequin Ducks, Mountain Bluebirds, Clark's Nutcrackers, Pine Grosbeaks and many more.

We begin our tour with a flight to the city of Calgary. Here we spend our first three nights whilst we adjust to the time difference and explore the variety of habitats nearby in search of, amongst others, Sandhill Crane, Wilson's Phalarope and Varied Thrush. Moving on, we enter the Rockies themselves, firstly with two nights in Banff National Park, before heading north for three nights near Lake Louise and Yoho National Park and a further two nights in Jasper National Park. To a wonderful backdrop of mountains, icefields and lakes we will look for all the aforementioned mammals, plus Coyote, a variety of squirrels and marmots and birds including Grey-crowned Rosy- finch, Pileated Woodpecker, Calliope Hummingbird and up to 15 species of North American wood warbler. Turning south once again, we end the tour with two nights near Kananaskis and Bow Valley Grizzly Bears Wilson's Phalarope Provincial Parks to the west of Calgary. These are excellent reserves in which to look for Grizzly Bear, Moose and Mule Deer, plus Barrow’s Goldeneye, Red-naped Sapsucker and MacGillivray’s Dates: Wed 17th Jun – Thu 2nd Jul ’20 For further details please call Warbler. We will also drive along the highest paved road in all of Canada which climbs to Cost: £5,795 (excludes lunches & dinners) Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 or ‘Highwood Pass’ at 2,210 metres (7,250 feet). Our holiday finishes where it began, back in Calgary, Website tour code: CAN09 email [email protected] from where we bid farewell to North America's most spectacular mountain chain and fly home.

NEW TOUR The AMERICAS Eastern Canada – Great Whales & the Fall Migration A 17-day wildlife holiday focusing on the birds and mammals of the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick and Québec, as well as the region’s spectacular scenery and the breathtaking colours of the ‘Fall’.

his exciting tour combines the very best of eastern Canada’s provinces of New Brunswick and Québec, at a time of year when the southbound migration of birds will be in full swing, Tcetaceans and seabirds crowd into the Bay of Fundy and the forested hills and coastal woodlands are swathed in the reds, oranges and golds of the Canadian ‘Fall’. It will take us from the rocky island of Grand Manan, past New Brunswick’s attractive fishing villages, into Québec’s mountains and forests and along the mighty St. Lawrence River to the fortified walls of Québec Fall colours, Québec City itself. En route we will go in search of an unforgettable variety of wildlife from the ghostly-white Beluga and rare Northern Right Whales to the tiny Least Sandpiper, the smallest wader in the world! Mixed flocks of warblers, vireos and kinglets will cross our path as we explore the region’s foremost wildlife reserves, whilst boat trips out into the Bay of Fundy and St. Lawrence River will introduce us to eastern Canada’s exciting marine-life.

We begin our tour in Saint John, New Brunswick, from where we take a ferry to the island of Grand Manan which sits in the middle of the Bay of Fundy. Here we will be based for four nights whilst we explore both on land and at sea, in search of Northern Right, Fin and Humpback Whales, seabirds including Great Shearwater and a host of migrating passerines and waders. Moving on, we will make our way north through New Brunswick, stopping to look for Moose and Beaver in Fundy National Park and waders such as Semipalmated, Pectoral and Stilt Sandpipers in the wetlands of Île Miscou. Crossing into neighbouring Québec, we will explore the extensive boreal forests of the Parc de la Gaspésie, home to mammals such as Black Bear and such birds as Spruce Grouse and Black-backed Woodpecker. Turning south-west, we next follow the course of the mighty St. Lawrence and cross the river at Rivière-du-Loup to spend two nights in Tadoussac. By early Northern Right Whale Northern Saw-whet Owl October the maples, aspens and beeches of the region’s temperate forests should be a Dates: Mon 21st Sep – Wed 7th Oct ’20 For further details please call kaleidoscope of colour and to this wonderful backdrop we will take to the water in search of Fin Cost: £5,995 (excludes lunches & dinners) Paul Stanbury on 01962 733051 or and Minke Whales and the St. Lawrence’s small population of Belugas. We complete our tour with Website tour code: CAN06 email [email protected] a night in the historic city of Québec, before continuing south to Montréal for our flight home.

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page fifteen NEW TOUR AFRICA and the MIDDLE EAST South Africa’s Western Cape – Land of the Caracal A 12-day wildlife holiday to South Africa’s Western Cape in search of the elusive Caracal and a wealth of less secretive mammals and birds.

frica is well known for its big cats, but it also possesses a fascinating array of smaller felines. Perhaps the most beautiful of these is the Caracal, a sand-coloured, lynx-like creature found Athroughout the drier parts of the continent. Notoriously scarce and elusive across most of its wide range, it is more numerous and less secretive in South Africa’s Western Cape, which is mostly free of larger carnivores. Here, the Caracal is the apex predator, and there is nowhere better in the world to search for them. This new tour visits three of the best reserves in the Western Cape, all of which contain thriving Caracal populations of Caracal. We begin with a flight to Cape Town – where Caracals inhabit the suburbs – before driving a couple of hours north to the West Coast National Park. Basing ourselves in the nearby town of Langebaan for three nights, we will make daily excursions into the park. Dawn and dusk are best for cat-spotting, but there is a wealth of other wildlife here too, including Greater Kudu, Red Hartebeest and Eland. At sea, pods of Dusky and Heaviside’s Dolphins occasionally pass by, along with Cape Fur Seals. Black Harrier, Bokmakierie and Southern Black Korhaan are some of the many spectacular birds to look for.

Next we will move on to De Hoop Nature Reserve for three nights, the largest protected area of lowland fynbos in the Western Cape. On the way, we will pass fields which often contain groups of elegant Blue Cranes. While searching for Caracal, we should also see Cape Mountain Zebra and the handsome Bontebok. In winter, Southern Right Whales gather offshore, and sheltered bays may contain a family of Cape Clawless Otters. For our final three nights we will move to the Karoo National Park, home to Black Rhinoceros, Gemsbok, and zebra bred to resemble the extinct Quagga! We will join night drives here in search of rare nocturnal species, possibly including Caracal, Aardwolf, Bat-eared Fox, Small-spotted Genet, African Wildcat and (if we are very lucky) Aardvark. We cannot guarantee that you will see a Blue Crane Aardwolf Caracal – they remain shy and unpredictable – but by joining this tour you will be giving yourself the best possible chance. Dates: Wed 8th – Sun 19th Jul ’20 For further details please call Cost: £4,995 Ben Chapple on 01962 733051 or For those wishing to see South Africa’s other mid-sized feline, the Serval, we are hoping to arrange Website tour code: ZAF18 email [email protected] access to the population that is thriving in an industrial park near Johannesburg. More details soon!

NEW TOUR EUROPE Go Slow … on Greece’s Pelion Peninsula A gentle-paced week of wildflower walks in the beautiful countryside of Greece’s Pelion Peninsula.

ccording to Greek legend, Mount Pelion was the summer residence of the Gods of Olympus, and the homeland of the magical Centaurs. Situated mid way between Athens and AThessaloniki, the Pelion Peninsula extends south from this mountain, surrounded by stunning beaches and beautiful turquoise waters, and is covered in beech and oak forests and shady olive groves. This new, ‘Go Slow’ holiday, begins with a flight to Thessaloniki, from where we will head south to Pelion Peninsula Pelion and our base for seven nights, the small and comfortable Lagou Raxi Country Hotel. Situated on the edge of the unspoiled village of Lafkos, where white-washed houses surround village squares shaded by plane trees, our hotel features beautiful gardens and stunning views over the islands of the Pagasetic Gulf. From here we will explore the peninsula at a leisurely pace, making use of the many kalderimia, or cobbled mule paths, to aid our exploration. We will enjoy leisurely walks of up to two miles in length, as we explore the flower-filled hillsides and olive groves or follow one of the kalderimia down to the coast, where Mediterranean species abound. We will enjoy identifying asphodels, spurges, abundant herbs and the parasitic Cytinus hypocistus amongst the Cistus scrub, while Italian Gladiolus and Barbary Nut are found amongst the grassy verges and Yellow-horned Poppy grows along the shore. We will also visit some beautiful local gardens, where the owners have encouraged wildflowers to return following years of pesticide use. The result is wonderful, with hillsides covered in Bee Orchids, Serapias and Orchis italica.

On one day, we will drive north to the Pelion Orchid Centre. Fifty-two species of orchid have now Green-winged Orchids Italian Gladiolus been identified in north Pelion, and above the village we may find Anacamptis morio and Orchis anthropophora (Man Orchid), whilst in the woodlands, dominated by Downy Oak, we should find Dates: Fri 10th – Fri 17th Apr & For further details please call Orchis provincialis. Our diverse programme for the week will also include some delightful taverna Fri 2nd – Fri 9th Oct ’20 (Botanical Kerrie Porteous on 01962 733051 or lunches and an optional excursion to a local vineyard where we can sample a few of the delicious local wines. We are also delighted to offer a ‘botanical art special’ in October 2020, with natural art special) email [email protected] Cost: £1,495 history excursions each morning followed by botanical art workshops back at our hotel each Website tour code: GRC17 afternoon, under the tuition of Volos-based botanical artist Maggie Niagassas.

page sixteen Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. NEW TOUR The AMERICAS Spring Birding in Southern California A unique 15-day tour of southern California to enjoy the spring birdlife, plus other wildlife and iconic landscapes including Death Valley National Park and Mojave National Preserve.

alifornia is a land of extremes. From the beautiful beaches and wetlands of the Pacific coast to the Mojave Desert and its inhospitable Death Valley, this state offers an Cunmatched range of spectacular landscapes and habitats to explore. Positioned on the ‘Pacific Flyway’, more bird species have been recorded here than anywhere else in the US – over 660 species and counting – and the hills are still home to Mountain Lion, Bobcat and Coyote. With a delightfully pleasant climate, comfortable accommodation and stunning scenery, California is the ideal place to enjoy North American wildlife in the spring.

Our tour begins with a direct flight to Los Angeles and an overnight stop in nearby Malibu. We will then explore the best of southern California’s coastal birding sites and the diverse habitats of the Death Valley Pacific Coast Highway, spending two nights north of LA in Ventura and two nights to the south in San Diego. Species diversity is especially high during the spring migration; 20 to 25 species of wader are possible at this time, including Black Turnstone, Surfbird and Wandering Tattler, and other highlights may include Allen’s Hummingbirds, California Scrub Jay and California Towhee. In the hills above Santa Barbara we should find the endemic Yellow-billed Magpie, and we will enjoy a day-trip to the Channel Islands National Park, where special wildlife includes the endemic Island Fox and Island Scrub Jay, as well as unique subspecies of Loggerhead Shrike and Pacific- slope Flycatcher.

We will then work our way inland, stopping in Brawley and Borrego Springs, and spending two nights in each of Joshua Tree and Death Valley National Parks. We will explore the Laguna Mountains, where highlights could include Mountain Quail, and we will hope to see some of the millions of migrants that visit the famous Salton Sea each spring. In Anza-Borrego we will search Greater Roadrunner Scott's Oriole for desert thrashers and Ladder-backed Woodpecker and in Joshua Tree National Park we should find Scott’s Oriole. Death Valley may seem harsh and barren, but it supports a surprising diversity Dates: Sun 26th Apr – Sun 10th May ’20 For further details please call of wildlife; we will offer an optional night-drive here, which could turn up various species of pocket mice and kangaroo rats. We will end our tour on Mount Charleston, where the evergreen forest, Cost: £4,895 (excludes lunches & dinners) Kerrie Porteous on 01962 733051 or Website tour code: USA16 email [email protected] ancient Bristlecone Pines and ice-cold springs seem a world away from Death Valley, before making our way to Las Vegas for our flight home.

NEW TOUR The AMERICAS The Dakotas – Birds & Mammals of the Badlands A unique 15-day tour to some of the most remote wildlife refuges in the United States to enjoy exceptional bird and mammal-watching.

he rolling hills and endless prairies of North and South Dakota are steeped in the mystique, legends and history of America’s ‘Wild West’. Here, stories of Lewis and Clark, Wild Bill THickok, Calamity Jane and Crazy Horse abound, testament to the region’s turbulent and colourful history. It is not just the history that draws people to the Dakotas, however, for the region’s wildlife is equally diverse and exciting, especially during the late spring. At this time of year the breeding birds are displaying, migrants are heading north along America's ‘Central Flyway’, mammals are active and rearing young and the forests, wetlands and prairies are awash with wild flowers.

Our tour begins in Rapid City, South Dakota, from where we journey south to explore Badlands Mount Rushmore National Park. The landscape here is breathtaking and so is the wildlife! Herds of North American Bison and Pronghorn graze near extensive Black-tailed Prairie-dog towns, whilst birds of the grasslands include Burrowing Owl, Prairie Falcon and Lark Bunting. Moving on, we will stop to admire the iconic sculpture of Mount Rushmore, before continuing to Custer State Park for a 3- night stay, home to Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goat and Yellow-breasted Chat. To the north-west lies Spearfish Canyon Lodge, our base for two nights whilst we explore Spearfish Canyon itself, the hidden jewel of the Black Hills, with its rugged limestone cliffs and beautiful waterfalls. We will also take a trip to an ancient volcanic plug called the Devil’s Tower, which rises 265 metres out of the prairie and attracts Lewis’s Woodpecker, Pinyon Jay and Swainson’s Hawk. For the second half of our tour, we drive into North Dakota. Here we split our time between three nights near Theodore Roosevelt National Park and two nights in the remote north of the state, from where we explore three superb reserves. River Otter and American Beaver inhabit the rivers, Moose stride through the wetlands, and the ‘prairie potholes’ provide an irresistible stopover for millions of Sharp-tailed Grouse lekking Lewis's Woodpecker ducks, geese and waders as they travel the length of North America each spring and autumn. Upland Sandpiper, Wilson’s Phalarope and Marbled Godwit all remain here to breed and join the Dates: Fri 29th May – Fri 12th Jun ’20 For further details please call resident, but rare, Sharp-tailed Grouse which we hope to see lekking. Finally, we end our tour with a Cost: £5,195 (excludes lunches & dinners) Kerrie Porteous on 01962 733051 or night in the state capital, Bismark, before we begin our journey home. Website tour code: USA17 email [email protected]

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page seventeen NEW TOUR ASIA The Best of Cambodia – Birds, Mammals & Temples A 17-day holiday in search of Cambodia’s birds and mammals, but also enjoying the unique culture and majestic temples of this fascinating country.

he Kingdom of Cambodia sits on the tropical peninsula of Indochina and borders Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. This fascinating country, steeped in history and with a unique and rich Tculture, has a huge amount to offer the naturalist, being home to a wonderful variety of birds and mammals. From forest-enveloped temples, vast lakes and open grasslands, to diptocarp woods, verdant tropical rainforests and the mighty Mekong River, Cambodia offers an exciting range of habitats to explore. On this new tour we will go in search of the birds and mammals that live in this beautiful kingdom while enjoying its rich culture and fascinating history too.

Our holiday begins with a flight into Siem Reap, where we will be based for four nights whilst we visit Angkor Wat the famous Angkor Wat, Bayon Temples and Angkor Thom City. The forests surrounding this famous UNESCO World Heritage Site hold a wealth of exciting species, with Forest Wagtail, White-throated Rock-thrush, Hainan Blue Flycatcher and Black Baza all likely to be seen. We will also cruise the vast Tonle Sap Lake, teeming with waterbirds that include Painted Stork, Black-headed Ibis and Spot-billed Pelican to name but a few. Moving on, we travel to the open grasslands and rice fields of Ang Trapeang Thmor where Sarus Crane and the rare Eld’s Deer can be found. At Tmatboey Eco-lodge, where we spend three nights, special birds abound and here we hope to find the endangered Giant and White-shouldered Ibises, whilst Bengal Florican and Pied Harrier are also possible.

After two nights near Okoki, we next visit a vulture feeding station to watch Red-headed, Slender- billed and White-rumped Vultures, before moving to the mighty Mekong River in search of the rare Irrawaddy Dolphin and range-restricted Mekong Wagtail. We complete our holiday with three nights at Senmonorom, from where we explore the Seima Wildlife Reserve and Dak Dam Highlands, the largest surviving block of tropical rainforest in all of south-east Asia. Here we will search for such rare mammals as Black-shanked Douc Langur, Yellow-cheeked Crested Gibbon and Asian Irawaddy Dolphin Bar-bellied Pitta Elephant, while birding gems include the Bar-bellied Pitta, Indochinese Barbet and Green Peafowl. Following a most varied and exciting tour of this special country we travel to the capital, Phnom Penh, for our flight home. Dates: Tue 14th – Thu 30th Jan ’20 For further details please call Cost: £4,595 Tom Mabbett on 01962 733051 or Website tour code: KHM01 email [email protected]

NEW TOUR EUROPE The Canaries – La Palma in Spring An 8-day holiday focusing on the botany, birds, whales and dolphins of the island of La Palma.

ollowing on from our successful September holiday to the island of La Palma, in the Canaries, we are delighted to offer a new tour to brighten those late-winter days. A UNESCO FWorld Biosphere Reserve, La Palma’s incredible landscapes, imposing volcanoes, extensive forests and star-filled night skies more than justify its reputation as ‘La Isla Bonita’ – the Beautiful Island. Due to their isolation, islands often have a fascinating ecology and La Palma is no exception, supporting many Canary Island endemic species and subspecies of birds, plants and butterflies, some unique to La Palma itself! On this 8-day holiday we will seek to enjoy all aspects of La Isla Bonita’s natural heritage. Cumbre Vieja National Park, La Palma Our holiday will begin with a direct flight to Santa Cruz de La Palma and a short transfer to our hotel in Los Cancajos, on the island’s sunny south-east coast. The scrubby coastal vegetation near the hotel, with its Canary Island Sorrel, Canary Island Samphire and Canary Tamarisk, are likely to hold Atlantic Canary, Canary Island Chiffchaff and West Canaries Lizard, as well as Canary Blue and Monarch butterflies. Out to sea, we may see Cory’s Shearwaters or a passing pod of Bottlenose Dolphins. Indeed, the deep waters off La Palma are excellent for cetaceans and we will take three boat trips, hopefully seeing several species of dolphin and Short-finned Pilot Whale, as well as Blainville’s Beaked Whale and others. On land, we will explore the semi- desert, lava flows, scrubby fields, Canary Island Pine forests, and ‘Laurisilva’, the rare and fragile laurel forest where strange plants such as the enormous Chain Fern abound. This unique habitat is home to both Laurel and Bolle’s Pigeon, as well as the La Palma subspecies of Blue Tit and Common Chaffinch. Rising above the cloud layer, the road along the north side of the Caldera de Taburiente gives stunning views and is home to Berthelot’s Pipit and the local Echium webbii Cory's Shearwater subspecies of Red-billed Chough, as well as a distinct flora and several astronomical observatories. This less-visited island truly offers something for everyone! Dates: Thu 12th – Thu 19th Mar ’20 For further details please call Cost: £1,595 Tom Mabbett on 01962 733051 or Website tour code: ESP54 email [email protected]

page eighteen Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip Itinerary. NEW TOUR The AMERICAS Ecuador – On the Trail of the Jocotoco Antpitta A 12-day birdwatching tour to the forests of Ecuador in search of the rare Jocotoco Antpitta and a wealth of other Neotropical birdlife.

hen the Jocotoco Antpitta was discovered back in 1997, deep within the moss-draped cloudforests of the eastern slopes of the southern Ecuadorian Andes it greatly excited Wthe ornithological world. Heading the small team of five which discovered the bird were Bob Ridgely and John Moore. Their team’s goal had actually been for John to obtain further sound recordings for his work on the ‘Vocalizations of Birds of the Neotropics’ and for Bob to tidy some loose ends prior to the publication of the seminal ‘Birds of Ecuador’. It was this new bird’s distinctive ‘jo-jo-jo-jo-jo-jo’ which alerted the group to the undescribed species. Interestingly, locals were familiar with the calls of the bird, but had never seen what made them! Jocotoco Antpitta More than 20 years on, this new tour takes us first to the Manglares-Churute Reserve, not far from Guayaquil. Here we should see Pacific Royal Flycatcher and our first Tumbesian endemics in the form of Superciliated Wren and Ecuadorian Trogon. We then drive on for a 3-night stay at Buenaventura Reserve where star birds include El Oro Parakeet (for which the reserve was originally set up to protect), Long-wattled Umbrellabird and numerous hummingbirds and tanagers. Our next base, again for three nights, is Copalinga Lodge on the edge of the Podocarpus National Park. The feeders in the grounds of the lodge will be buzzing with hummingbirds such as Wire-crested Thorntail, Spangled Coquette and many others, while Blackish Nightjar and Gray Tinamou can be seen nearby.

The tour nears conclusion with two nights at Tapichalaca Reserve where, two decades after its discovery, we will be able to see Jocotoco Antpitta as it comes out to feed confidently on earthworms at an antpitta feeding station. A flight to Quito and a day at Antisana for Andean Condors and spellbinding scenery rounds off this exciting new itinerary, which can be combined with our established ‘Cock-of-the-Rock’ itinerary in northern Ecuador (website tour code ECU05). Long-wattled Umbrellabird Wire-crested Thorntail

Dates: Sun 9th – Thu 20th Feb & Sat For further details please call 21st Nov – Wed 2nd Dec ’20 Andy Tucker on 01962 733051 or Cost: £2,995 email [email protected] Website tour code: ECU17

NEW TOUR The AMERICAS The Bahamas – The Sharks & Dolphins of South Bimini A 9-day holiday to the Bahamas, including the opportunity to snorkel with an exciting array of shark species – and other marine-life – all while enjoying beautiful beaches and directly contributing to shark conservation.

he Bahamas are made up of over 700 beautiful islands scattered over 100,000 square miles of the Atlantic Ocean. Boasting pristine, white sandy beaches and the clearest waters Ton the planet, this archipelago is legendary amongst snorkelers and divers. Following a night in Miami, we will be based for seven nights on the tiny, picturesque island of South Bimini, Atlantic Spotted Dolphins which lies just 50 miles off the coast of Miami. Here we will have the unique opportunity to accompany researchers and snorkel with a diverse range of shark species, including Caribbean Reef, Nurse, Lemon, Blacktip, Great Hammerhead, Bull and even Tiger Sharks. Of course there will also be time to relax on the beaches, explore the island, and go diving for those who wish to do so.

Sharks, as apex predators, are vital for the survival of healthy marine ecosystems, but they are sadly being lost at an alarming rate. We will learn about these species and enter the calm, warm waters to snorkel with Caribbean Reef Sharks and the legendary Great Hammerhead, float over the wreck of the SS Sapona, which teems with stingrays and beautiful corals, and watch juvenile Lemon Sharks leave their mangrove nurseries. Other snorkelling sites may hold Eagle Rays and Nurse, Bull and even Tiger Sharks, while swimming with Atlantic Spotted Dolphins is another special experience we will aim to achieve. Offshore, we will assist with catching and tagging sharks, and we will even have the opportunity to see some species close up as we contribute directly to cutting-edge conservation.

Great Hammerhead Tiger Shark Our apartments are close to the beach and there will be ample time in which to relax and enjoy the tranquillity of this special place. We can take walks to find the island’s Burrowing Owls and other wildlife, while those who are qualified may wish to go scuba-diving on the scheduled rest Dates: Wed 15th – Thu 23rd Apr ’20 For further details please call day. After a week of world-class snorkelling, truly unique experiences and relaxation, we fly back Cost: £3,995 Tom Mabbett on 01962 733051 or to Miami and onward to the UK. Website tour code: BHS01 email [email protected]

Book direct on 01962 733051, or online, using your debit or credit card. page nineteen Summer Newsletter 2019 Late Availability We still have some places remaining on the following tours departing within the next 3 months:

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS – ONE WEEK CRUISE MONGOLIA’S SNOW LEOPARDS HAMPSHIRE – A DAY WITH SMALL MAMMALS Mon 1st – Sat 13th Jul Cost: £5,895 Sat 17th – Wed 28th Aug Cost: £5,395 Fri 20th Sep Cost: £80 BELGIUM IN SUMMER ABRUZZO IN AUTUMN MADAGASCAR’S LEMURS Wed 3rd – Sun 7th Jul Cost: £995 Thu 29th Aug – Thu 5th Sep Cost: £1,595 Sat 21st Sep – Sun 6th Oct Cost: £4,495 BUTTERFLIES & MOTHS OF THE SPANISH ICELAND IN AUTUMN CORSICA IN AUTUMN PYRENEES Sun 1st – Sat 7th Sep Cost: £2,395 Sun 22nd – Sun 29th Sep Cost: £1,595 Wed 3rd – Wed 10th Jul Cost: £1,495 GREECE IN AUTUMN SPAIN’S ‘BIG THREE’: WHALES, WOLVES & WILD ASTURIAS – REALM OF THE BEAR Tue 3rd – Tue 10th Sep Cost: £1,395 BEARS Tue 24th Sep – Thu 3rd Oct Cost: £1,695 Fri 5th – Fri 12th Jul Cost: £1,495 HUNGARY’S BATS, MAMMALS & OTHER SWITZERLAND – UPPER ENGADINE WILDLIFE GO SLOW ... IN ANDALUCIA Sun 7th – Sun 14th Jul Cost: £1,795 Tue 3rd – Tue 10th Sep Cost: £1,895 Wed 25th Sep – Tue 1st Oct Cost: £1,395 PANAMA – MAMMALS OF THE CANOPY TOWER BORNEO’S ORANG-UTANS TANZANIA – SELOUS & RUAHA Sun 7th – Wed 17th Jul Cost: £3,395 Wed 4th – Sat 14th Sep Cost: £4,495 Fri 27th Sep – Mon 7th Oct Cost: £5,995 BUTTERFLIES OF SPAIN’S MONTANA POLAND IN AUTUMN SOUTH AMERICA’S BIG CATS PALENTINA Sat 7th – Sun 15th Sep Cost: £1,695 Mon 30th Sep – Tue 15th Oct Cost: £7,595 Mon 8th – Mon 15th Jul Cost: £1,495 CANADA – CRUISING THE GREAT BEAR MADAGASCAR’S ENDEMIC BIRDS BUTTERFLIES OF THE DOLOMITES RAINFOREST Mon 30th Sep – Wed 16th Oct Cost: £5,295 Wed 10th – Wed 17th Jul Cost: £1,595 Tue 10th – Thu 19th Sep Cost: £5,595 GO SLOW ... IN ISTRIA IN AUTUMN FRANCE – BUTTERFLIES & MOTHS OF THE TARIFA & GIBRALTAR: WHALES & DOLPHINS Tue 1st – Tue 8th Oct Cost: £1,295 VERCORS Tue 10th – Sat 14th Sep Cost: £995 BIRDING BORNEO – THE BEST OF SABAH Wed 17th – Wed 24th Jul Cost: £1,495 PERU’S RAINFOREST MAMMALS Tue 1st – Sat 12th Oct Cost: £3,895 MADAGASCAR: WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY Wed 11th – Thu 19th Sep Cost: £2,895 THE FRENCH PYRENEES Mon 22nd Jul – Sat 10th Aug Cost: £7,995 SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE Wed 2nd – Wed 9th Oct Cost: £1,495 AMAZON WILDLIFE CRUISE Wed 11th – Sun 22nd Sep Cost: £4,295 ARDNAMURCHAN – RED DEER RUT Wed 31st Jul – Fri 9th Aug Cost: £4,395 AUTUMN BIRDING IN SOUTHERN PORTUGAL Thu 3rd – Mon 7th Oct Cost: £795 FINLAND – JUST BROWN BEARS Thu 12th – Wed 18th Sep Cost: £1,495 BOTSWANA’S DESERT & DELTA (MAMMALS) Thu 1st – Sun 4th Aug Cost: £1,295 GO SLOW ... IN SOUTH AFRICA Fri 4th – Sun 13th Oct Cost: £3,695 SPAIN – PICOS AND PLAINS Thu 12th – Sat 21st Sep Cost: £4,295 THE BIRDS OF BRANDENBURG & BERLIN Sun 4th – Tue 13th Aug Cost: £1,695 PERU – MACAWS & MACHU PICCHU Fri 4th – Tue 8th Oct Cost: £995 HUNGARY IN SUMMER Fri 13th – Sun 29th Sep Cost: £5,295 ETHIOPIA’S ENDEMIC MAMMALS Tue 6th – Tue 13th Aug Cost: £1,695 TARIFA & GIBRALTAR: WHALES & DOLPHINS Fri 4th – Sun 13th Oct Cost: £2,595 ECUADOR – THE ANDES & AMAZON Sat 14th – Wed 18th Sep Cost: £995 PERU – MACAWS & MACHU PICCHU Wed 7th – Wed 21st Aug Cost: £4,895 GO SLOW ... IN MALLORCA Fri 4th – Sun 20th Oct Cost: £5,295 BRAZIL – SOUTH AMERICA’S ‘BIG FIVE’! Sat 14th – Sat 21st Sep Cost: £1,495 AUTUMN COLOURS OF NEW ENGLAND Thu 8th – Sat 24th Aug Cost: £6,995 ROMANIA’S DANUBE DELTA & CARPATHIAN Fri 4th – Wed 16th Oct Cost: £3,295 NAMIBIA – A PHOTOGRAPHIC TOUR MOUNTAINS PANAMA’S BUTTERFLIES Mon 12th – Thu 29th Aug Cost: £8,695 Sat 14th – Mon 23rd Sep Cost: £1,795 Sat 5th – Sun 13th Oct Cost: £2,695 BRAZIL – SOUTH AMERICA’S ‘BIG FIVE’! SICILY IN AUTUMN WOLF-WATCHING IN SPAIN Fri 16th Aug – Sun 1st Sep Cost: £6,995 Tue 17th – Mon 23rd Sep Cost: £1,495 Mon 7th – Fri 11th Oct Cost: £995

Cover photograph: Walrus, Franz Josef Land, Russia Back cover photograph: Moraine Lake, Canadian Rockies. Editors: Paul Stanbury & Debbie Ward Photographs: Naturetrek would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the images found in this newsletter and individual credits can be found on our website: www.naturetrek.co.uk/website/brochurephotographers.aspx

naturetrek.co.uk NATURETREK, MINGLEDOWN BARN, WOLF’S LANE, CHAWTON, ALTON, tel: 01962 733051 HAMPSHIRE GU34 3HJ ABTA No.Y6206