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2010.12 P23-34 Dining.Indd DINING NIBBLES NEW ARRIVALS Many little cafes have opened up in Sanlitun in time for Christmas. Taking over White Rabbit’s spot in Tongli Studios, Hercules offers up deli fare in the form of sandwiches, salads and soups (see p24). Meanwhile, a few blocks over, Refresh! (located beneath Hooters) also serves light fare in the form of sandwiches and paninis, baked goods, smoothies and coffee. A few paces behind The Bookworm, Khan Baba is a new Pakistani restaurant dishing out samosas, curries and roasted meats at reason- able prices. For more refreshment from the subcontinent, Royal Boat is right across the street in Sanlitun Soho. It specializes in Indian drinks: premium teas, lassis and fresh juices. For some tasty xiaolongbao, head to Shanghainese chain Xiao Nan Guo in Liangmaqiao’s new City Mall. Soon to be its neighbor is the newest branch of Element Fresh, another popular Shanghai chain. Speaking of old favorites, Sequoia Cafe has relocated its main store to the Jianguomenwai Diplomatic Compound, Comptoirs de France has opened a branch in Pacific Century Place and Jenny Lou’s has opened a brand-new store in Central Park as well as its refurbished Chaoyang Park branch. Not too far away, Cage’s Crab House will steam up crabs imported from all A HAUL FROM SANYUANLI MARKET over the globe, along with “crabby” sides, fried fish and salads. On a lighter note, the Korean owner of the newly- opened SG Song at the Vantone Center will focus on healthy and fresh CAPITAL BITES Korean dishes made without MSG. JEN LEUNG GOES SHOPPING During these cold days, nothing is more comforting than hearty Eastern European food. Bluecity Polish ou can buy fake Gucci, find remain my excuse for a weekly oranges or just want to see a whole restaurant in Soho Shangdu features antique cameras, or pick up a visit. Needless to say, it’s a veritable lotta produce, head to Xinfadi. perogies and cabbage rolls. And Ypet poodle at Beijing’s many lifeline for those longing to cook This is the city’s biggest outdoor Budapest has finished renovations, specialty markets, but for those of non-Chinese feasts. market, where supermarket chains resulting in a space that’s now sleeker us who love to cook, the best reason If you love seafood, go to Jing and other wholesalers source their and better-lit; they’ve added even more Hungarian specialties to their to hit the market is food. While the Shen market (see Feature, p17), a produce. Much of it is sold straight menu as well. neighborhood Jingkelong or Jenny massive wet market packed with from the back of massive trucks If it’s too cold to leave the house but Lou’s is convenient, the wholesale tanks where dinner is still swimming – – that sight alone is worth the trek. you still want comfort food, Hegel’s food markets around town are everything from common catfish But there’s no need to go that far Bagels will deliver fresh bagels (RMB treasure troves for foodies. to baby sharks. There’s also row to get wholesale deals on fruits 80/dozen) to your door, and Pie Sanyuanli, in the Xinyuanli upon row of giant oysters and other and vegetables. For instance, on House is offering chocolate hazelnut neighborhood, has long been an mollusks such as clams and geoduck. the west side of Shichahai, Rundeli cake for the holiday season. They are also hopping on the cupcake train and expat favorite (see p29). Originally While the market is raucous with market has every type of produce sell five for RMB 125. intended as a wholesale distributor dealers selling to restaurant buyers, imaginable for bargain prices. You for the embassy kitchens, it stocks a with patience you can figure out can cruise down the wide aisles on NEW MENUS fine selection of Western groceries exactly what sort of crustacean to your bike/scooter/horse-drawn cart Element Fresh, Maison Boulud, Bei at some of the best prices in town. buy, and at unbeatable prices. And and shop in comfort without ever and Morio are among those taking Here, you’ll not only find cheddar if the thought of wrestling a live hopping off your wheels. winter in stride and offering updated and olive oil, but also hard-to-locate crab into a pot makes you nervous, There’s no better excuse than menus with seasonal ingredients items such as puff pastry and curry you can take the critters to the the holidays to cook up a storm for that’ll help keep you warm. Element laksa paste. On the herbal front, food court upstairs to be cooked your family and friends. I suggest you Fresh now has lamb with lentils, and Morio will serve individual pots there’s fresh sage, rosemary and on the spot. make one of these markets your first of nabemono (a warming Japanese thyme, not to mention the more While most expats seldom need stop … Sanyuanli even stocks fresh stew) with seafood. Eat up, stave off exotic lemongrass and galangal. to buy fruit in wholesale amounts, turkeys and cranberry sauce. the cold! The mounds of avocados, though, if you ever need 20 pounds of PHOTO: JEN LEUNG DECEMBER 2010 23 WHAT’S NEW RESTAURANTS CAFES & TEAHOUSES HERCULES 荷加斯餐吧 Daily 11am-late. Unit 201, 2/F, Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 0299) www.hercules3s.com 朝阳区三里屯路同里2层201 Twelve Labors would be enough to make anyone hungry. This Sanlitun café bearing Hercules’ name would have provided the ideal sustenance for such toil with its honest, hearty fare. The three staples on offer – sandwiches, salads and soups – offer warmth enough to counter the season in an environment befit- ting a not-coming-on-too-strong first date. The borscht (RMB 18) is a tad insubstantial but that is not a criticism that can be leveled at the homely ox tongue (RMB 38) or traditional pastrami (RMB 42) sandwich on your choice of fresh-baked ciabatta, baguette, croissant, etc. The various breads and fillings are the delight of a menu rounded out by all-day breakfast and pastas. Drinks range from cof- fees to wines, which makes Hercules equally suitable for a late-morning laptop session or a late-night refill during a traditional Sanlitun session. Pete Reilly Also try: Biteapitta, Bocata DUCK "TAKOYAKI" BACON-EGG-LETTUCE AND TOMATO CAN YAN COOK? SPAN ISH CONTEMPORARY CHINESE OLÉ RESTAURANT AND BAR Daily 11am-2am. Courtyard 4 (opposite Tun), Gongti Beilu, YAN CAN COOK BEIJING Chaoyang District (6595 9677) Daily 11am-10pm. Unit 201, World Financial Center, 1 Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District (5981 7578) 朝阳区工体北路4号院（屯吧对面） 朝阳区东三环中路1号环球金融中心WFC201单元 Sanlitun’s Spanish invasion moves up a gear with the launch of this huge, three-tiered space. an Yan Cook? Martin Yan, the celebrity chef done neat and sweet with a to-die-for X.O. chilli All-you-can-drink sangria promotions are the of TV’s Yan Can Cook, has just opened his sauce. draw in the downstairs bar, with casual tapas Cfirst restaurant in Asia, with fusion dishes But other dishes need some work. The honey on the second floor and more upscale dining adapting the best of Chinese cuisine to Western eel, smothered in a zesty plum sauce, was over- on top. Both dining floors share a pumpkin- tastes. Even in a town where authentic Chinese cooked and nestled oddly on a bed of bland orange color scheme, bouncy Iberian music food is cheap and abundant, this concept could lettuce and blander white toast (RMB 98). The and a duo of Spanish chefs knocking up striking still be fun, but Yan falls a bit short. coffee-flavored pork (RMB 88) smelled amazing black rice paella with squid ink and cuttlefish The roast pigeon is finger-lickin’ good, the but was too fatty, and its sauce only highlighted (RMB 180), salads, roasted meats and various meat moist, the skin crackling (RMB 38 for half). the dominance of sweet and sour on the menu. tapas plates. Portions are big and flavors bold. The other barbecue offerings are just as grand. Firecracker duck balls are creative – it was The second-floor business lunch (RMB 70) The crystal pork (RMB 38) is a high-class aspic amusing to discover savory duck “takoyaki” under includes a choice of two dishes (try the the drizzle of mayonnaise and bonito flakes (RMB estofado beef stew), a basket of warm bread 68). This upgrade of the Japanese street snack is and a glass of passable Spanish red. On top, laudable, but without the traditional starchy base, higher-end specials worth a shot include roast also rather dense. And while Yan’s fried rice (RMB suckling pig (RMB 480, serves 6) and fabada, 28), a variation on the classic Yangzhou version, a northern Spanish dish of beans with pork, and the Hong Kong-style fried noodles (RMB 38) chorizo and veggies. Tom O’Malley looked picture-perfect, both needed a liberal dash of salt to give them life. Also try: Carmen, Agua So, Yan Can’t Cook? Not necessarily – the PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU AND COURTESY OF OLE setting is classy, the open kitchen welcoming and the plating lovely. The less successful dishes can be easily tweaked, so give him time, and Yan can succeed. Jen Leung Standout dishes: Roast meats, duck skin with marshmallow Also try: Da Dong PAN TUMACA WITH HAM 24 DECEMBER 2010 SUCCULENT SUCKLING PIG THE REBIRTH OF COOL SPAN ISH AGUA Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-11pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (5208 6188) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园4层 t’s likely that most people who were familiar the talking.
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