96 97

GLOBAL ROAMING

LITTLELITTLE ASIASASIAS AROUNDAROUND THETHE WORLDWORLD

There are bustling Little Asias to be found in cities around the world. Centuries of Chinese emigration has resulted in well- established Chinatowns, bound by large, decorative archways, or paifang. But waves of arrivals from other parts of Asia have also borne Koreatowns, Little Saigons and more. Within these communities, dishes are adapted to suit local tastes, while ingredients and techniques are borrowed from the local cuisine and, over time, these enclaves evolve their Handmade noodles at own unique foods and flavours – resulting King of Noodles in San Francisco. Left: Lamb and in New York’s chop suey, ’s gobi dumplings, Manchurian and LA‘s Korean . recipe page 118.

FEAST 97 98 99

GLOBAL ROAMING

and Worth can feel especially transporting, with grizzled old cooks in their stained aprons taking a smoke break on the corner and kids in buzz cuts and colourful backpacks wandering home from school. A taste of the old Chinatown can be found at New King, a family-run shop that has been making and selling -style beef and jerky out of a tiny storefront since 1982 (the beef chunks are my and the owner’s favourite); Mei Li Wah, a beloved bakery that turns out fresh barbecued pork buns all day long; the no- frills Big Wong King, where you can dine on or take away one of the masterfully roasted olourful, chaotic and ducks or spare hanging in all their aromatic, Chinatown in bronzed glory above the counter; and at lower Manhattan is the Nom Wah Tea Parlor, a modest and cheery only Chinatown that most joint open since 1920, which serves New York City visitors and its buns and dumplings to order instead of even residents know of, but in fact, there by pushcart in a charmingly retro, diner-like are two other, larger Chinatowns (and space. For the dim sum-by-cart experience, many more small, but growing Asian there’s Royal Seafood, which is also one of communities sprinkled throughout the the best spots in the area for dinner. metropolitan area), each just a 45-minute The latest and ongoing immigration subway ride from Midtown, each with its wave has brought Fujianese from ’s own distinct flavour and each worth a visit. south-east coast, and they have set up shop The oldest and original, however, is on the east side of the neighbourhood. A still going strong. Manhattan Chinatown few of their eateries, such as the working- was largely created in the 19th century class canteens Super Taste and Sheng Wang, by Cantonese immigrants, who trickled serve Lanzhou-style hand-pulled, knife- in from the West after the end of the cut noodles from the inland province of California Gold Rush and its railroad Gansu, in addition to the delicate construction. Many of them were from and pork-stuffed fish balls of Fujian. If the Pearl River Delta in Guangdong you’re looking for another obscure regional province, and they, along with later arrivals cuisine, as food-obsessed New Yorkers from , opened laundries, shops always are, visit Spicy Village, a Hainanese and, of course, restaurants. Their eateries eatery that also happens to specialise in became synonymous with chop suey, an ‘spicy big tray chicken’, a Xinjiang dish of NEW YORK’S American-Chinese concoction of stir- and potatoes swimming in an oily, meat and assorted vegetables, the origins dramatically red-hued sauce. of which remain a mystery. Cantonese If Chinatown in Manhattan offers mum-and-dad businesses still anchor this a glimpse of the past, the one in Flushing, neighbourhood, even if chop suey has Queens, is a vision of the future. The become increasingly rare, and many of the bustling intersection of Main Street and restaurants haven’t changed in decades. Roosevelt Avenue could have been plucked CHINATOWNS On a weekday afternoon, the stretch of from some Asian megalopolis: the wide Mulberry and Mott Streets between Canal streets and sidewalks are packed with

FEAST 99 100 101

GLOBAL ROAMING GLOBAL ROAMING

Left: Canal Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown. Clockwise from top left: Korean eatery Seongbukdong; from The Prince; a store in Koreatown; Korean bites and soju at Dan Sung Sa; I Love Boba’s iced coffee; (side dishes) at Park’s ; budae jjigae (Army base stew) at Chunju Han II Kwan; an ice-cream truck; pat bing soo (shaved ice dessert) at Ice Kiss.

NEW YORK HIT LIST

MANHATTAN New Beef King 89 Bayard St, 10013, elderly ladies clasping their groceries, dogged leaflet jockeys for tables. You can spend an afternoon +1 212 233 6612, newbeefking.com distributors, and spiky-haired teenagers in matching grazing on dishes from each stall, but of particular Mei Li Wah 64 Bayard St, 10013, outfits furiously tapping away on their phones. interest are Taiwan Market Foods (stall 18) for gua +1 212 966 7866, meiliwah.com This community started from more moneyed, bao ( buns) and shaved ice with red bean Big Wong King 67 Mott St, 10013, middle-class immigrants, many from Taiwan. and tapioca; the immensely popular Live Seafood +1 212 964 0540, bigwongking.com Unlike Manhattan Chinatown, where you’re as (stall 5), where, indeed, lobsters, crabs and various Nom Wah Tea Parlor 13 Doyers St, likely to hear German and French from tourists other marine life await their fate in tanks next to 10013, +1 212 962 6047, nomwah.com as you are Cantonese, in Flushing, you’ll hear the counter; and Tian Fu (stall 24), where you Royal Seafood 103 Mott St, 10013, a dozen Chinese dialects. This is where Chinese choose your own ingredients to be cooked together +1 212 219 2338 come from all over the tri-state area – and further with a fiery peppercorn-infused sauce. Super Taste 26 Eldridge St, 10002, still – to shop, play, and, most importantly, eat. The largest, fastest growing and least +1 646 283 0999 Here you can find Mongolian , prepossessing of the New York Chinatowns is the Sheng Wang 27 Eldridge St, 10002 Shanghainese soup dumplings, Dongbei lamb, one in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, where many of the +1 212 925 0805 Sichuan chilli-oil wontons and Taiwanese oyster Fujianese newcomers live alongside transplants Spicy Village 68 Forsyth St, 10002, pancakes – and in Flushing’s underground food from Manhattan Chinatown seeking much cheaper +1 212 625 8299, spicyvillagenyc.com courts, you might find all of these, and more, under rents. But the eating is no less impressive. Some one roof. Golden Shopping Mall offers a dingy, 30 blocks of Eighth Avenue from the Gowanus QUEENS cramped, badly lit warren of stalls where the food is Expressway to Green-Wood Cemetery are lined with Golden Shopping Mall 41-36 Main uniformly excellent. Visit Tianjin Xianbing on the modest storefronts and scrappy sidewalk vendors, St, 11355 ground floor for beef rolled up in a spring with some spillover onto adjacent avenues. Some Xi’an Famous Foods Various pancake. Head to the basement for the cumin lamb of New York’s better Vietnamese restaurants are locations, xianfoods.com ‘burger’ and spicy ‘cold-skin’ noodles at the original located here as well. One of the best restaurants in New World Mall 136-20 Roosevelt location of Xi’an Famous Foods (there’s also a branch the neighbourhood is Yun Nan Flavour Garden, a Ave, 11354, newworldmallny.com in Manhattan Chinatown), as well as juicy lamb and grander incarnation of a former hole-in-the-wall, zucchini dumplings at Tianjin Dumpling House. specialising in the deliciously complex dumplings BROOKLYN New World Mall occupies the opposite end of and noodle soups of Yunnan, China’s far south-west Yun Nan Flavour Garden 5121 the food-court spectrum. The stalls sit in the brightly province. Sunset Park is also where you’ll find New 8th Ave, 11220, +1 718 633 3090 lit basement of a massive, shiny glass-and-steel York’s best dim sum, at Pacificana and East Harbor Pacificana 813 55th St, 11220, shopping complex, which also houses a cavernous Seafood Palace, two grand, modern banquet halls +1 718-871-2880, sunset-park.com/ Asian supermarket and a handful of retail shops. that roll out cart after cart of inventive, unusual and mall/pacificana More than 30 vendors ring the spacious common expertly prepared dumplings, noodle rolls, buns, East Harbor Seafood Palace 714 seating area, where a mostly young, Chinese clientele , roast meats, seafood, egg tarts and rice cakes. 65th St, 11220, +1 718-765-0098

100 FEAST FEAST 101 102 103

GLOBAL ROAMING

Clockwise from left: spicy beef soup from Park‘s Barbeque; LA’s Koreatown; tea and cookies from Hwa Sun Ji; a shop vendor in Koreatown. LA HIT LIST

Park’s Barbeque It doesn’t seem is part mess hall and part secret much from outside, but one look cubby house, but the food – at the Michelin awards and photos mostly booze-friendly snacks of visiting K-pop heart-throbs – is exceptional. Try the spicy and Hollywood starlets lining the barbecue or charred walls here more than suggest that beef intestine . 3317 W this smart stalwart is an LA icon. 6th St, 90020, +1 213 487 9100 Widely considered Koreatown’s premier smokeless barbecue Kobawoo Open since 1983 (with restaurant – the beef is of high decor to match), Kobawoo is a rom bibimbap to In the 1950s, a second wave of immigrants buyers who have been priced out of other parts quality and their array of banchan classic. Lunchtimes are typically barbecue and day settled here after the , and in the of LA. “It’s become very safe,” she says. And (side dishes) is right up there. packed and everyone goes for the spas to late-night bars, 60s, after US immigration laws were relaxed, it’s easy to see the shift: new bars are popping 955 S. Vermont Ave, 90006, bossam, braised pork belly served the joys of LA’s edgy many more made it their landing spot. up, as are specialty coffee shops, boutique +1 213 380 1717, parksbbq.com with various accoutrements Despite being predominately well-educated and hotels and even an oyster bar, so we’re told. Koreatown precinct have long been a well-kept including spicy turnip and secret. But all that’s changing. Thanks to its middle class, most of these new migrants found “People like it here for the nightlife – there’s Seongbukdong Unremarkable pickled radish, designed to be happening nightlife, thriving food scene and work running liquor stores, dry cleaners and a lot going on,” says Jenee. strip-mall location? Tick. Tiny wrapped into crunchy, cabbage local heroes, K-town is now considered one grocery shops – and later, restaurants. Like so much of the city, the Koreatown kitchen filled with a small army leaf bundles. Their haemul panjun of LA’s hippest neighbourhoods. Today, Koreatown is one of LA’s most precinct, which is bordered by Hollywood of Korean ladies? Tick. Authentic, (seafood pancake) is a winner, too. “When I first arrived in Koreatown in culturally diverse areas, with about two-thirds and Downtown, is extremely spread out. regional Korean fare? Tick. This 698 S Vermont Ave #109, 90005, 1988, I thought, ‘This looks like a dangerous of its inhabitants foreign-born. Koreans There is no singular, central retail or dining humble restaurant specialises +1 213 389 7300 place’,” says Jenee Kim, laughing. Jenee is represent around 30 per cent of the population, strip, and all the best restaurants are typically in traditional from the owner of the iconic Park’s Barbecue while Latinos, mostly from Mexico and El located in otherwise unremarkable mini strip Korea’s south-east Gyeonsang Hwa Sun Ji Tea & Coffee After restaurant, a regular haunt for name LA Salvador, make up more than 50 per cent. malls, so if you’re visiting, it pays to hire a car. region. Hero dishes include the days devoted to the brash but chefs, Hollywood stars and visiting K-pop In the early days, it was the barbecue joints Alternatively, guests at The Line Hotel restorative braised mackerel addictive charms of K-town’s idols. “K-town was really small back then,” like Park’s that acted as an accessible ‘gateway on Wilshire Boulevard can make and kimchi stew, and the tender culinary treasures, a visit to she explains. “And really quiet. There were drug’ for curious non-Koreans although now, complimentary use of the hotel’s bicycles braised beef . 3303 W. this authentic Korean teahouse only a handful of Korean restaurants and the average Angeleno will readily admit to a or take the nearby subway to get around. 6th St, 90020, +1 213 738 8977 comes like a welcome hug from markets – it was nothing like it is today.” full-blown smoky addiction. “There weren’t As a Korean-American, Jenee Kim feels a sweet old aunty. There’s a lovely In the past couple of decades, Jenee has many [white] Americans in the restaurant justifiably proud of the place that Korean Pot Fun Raucous and proudly sweet-spicy aroma to the air from seen her community bounce back from the when we first opened in 2003 – it was mostly cuisine has earned in modern American Korean-American, Roy Choi’s hip the constant brewing of herbal new mod-Korean canteen at The tisanes. You’ll find teas for any devastation of the 1992 LA riots and witnessed Koreans and other Asians,” recalls Jenee. “But culture. So much so, she tells us, that kimchi Line Hotel takes all that is familiar ailment, as well as a small range Koreatown’s gradual transformation from a now that’s changed. At weekends, it’s 80 per has even stolen the culinary heart of the about K-food and reimagines it – of Korean cookies and snacks. neighbourhood where non-locals (perhaps cent non-Koreans.” nation’s First Lady. “Michelle Obama made with a big side serve of hip hop. 3960 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 100, unfairly) feared to tread, into one of LA’s In fact, “going for Korean barbecue” is as kimchi at the White House, she loves it!” There’s a strict no-bookings policy, 90010, +1 213 382 5302 ‘hottest’ areas, and what is now widely – and much a part of the LA dining vernacular as Voicing a sentiment she says is widely so choose your time wisely or proudly – recognised as the cultural heartland “grabbing a ”. And thanks to Roy Choi shared by her community, Jenee says, “We prepare to join the queue. Ice Kiss Apart from doing a and his Kogi food trucks, it’s the unique are glad that it’s not just Koreans coming to of Korean America. The Line Hotel, 3515 Wilshire roaring trade in waffles and sweet Korean families first started arriving into combination of these two oh-so-LA elements our restaurants. It’s great to see other people Blvd, 90010, +1 213 368 3030, potato milkshakes, this vividly the neighbourhood during the 1930s when (Korean food and tacos) that has stamped enjoy the food.” And it seems long-gone is any eatatpot.com decked-out dessert bar is the it was still the epicentre of the ‘Golden Age’ Koreatown on the map and brought waves sense of mystery about the more pungently neighbourhood go-to for Korea’s of Hollywood’s film industry. Many faded of new fans to the area. challenging aspects of Korean food that may Dan Sung Sa From the outside, favourite icy treat, pat bing soo, remnants of this era can still be seen today, “There are also many new condominiums have tested Western palates in the past. “It’s this izakaya-style bar looks a colourful riot of shaved ice with and some of the best examples have served as being built here, so more people are moving amazing. Westerners are more adventurous impossibly seedy. A late-night red bean paste, fruit syrup, fruit regular filming locations for TV shows such into the area, even non-Koreans,” adds Jenee, now. Five years ago, they didn’t even want favourite with off-duty chefs, this and cream. 3407 W 6th St, Suite as Mad Men and Criminal Minds. alluding to the new generation of young home- to smell kimchi – now they ask for it!” windowless, wood-lined bunker 101B, 90020, +1 213 382 4776

102 FEAST FEAST 103 104 105

GLOBAL ROAMING

11 TIANFU Obviously, I have to Pork start with Sichuanese food, my with spicy salt, first love! The head chef at Tianfu, Fu recipe page 118 Wenhong, is from the Sichuan capital , and is adept at conjuring up the thrillingly spicy flavours of his hometown. 33 There are too many good dishes to list, but start with a pig’s ear salad laced with Hunan is one of a kind. The chilli oil, or sizzling squid with dried 22 eccentric owner and head chef, chillies. 37-39 Bulwer St, W12 TOP TASTE Mr Peng, from Taiwan, offers a tasting 8AR, +44 20 8740 4546 This obscure cafe in East menu, with a bias towards the spicy London serves dishes from the flavours of Sichuan and Hunan. Specialties Dongbei (north-eastern) part of China include a pork and mushroom soup served that draw in young Chinese from all over in bamboo tubes, and deep-fried green the city. Specialties include a garlicky salad beans. The ambience is quite European, of slithery noodles with vegetables and but the Chinese cooking is some of Neil Perry’s sesame sauce (‘five-colour clear noodle’) the best in London. 51 Pimlico Rd, and irresistible fried pancakes stuffed SW1W 8NE, +44 20 7730 5712, with egg and Chinese (‘pan-fried hunanlondon.com Hong Kong Hit List chive pancake pockets’). I am lucky enough to travel once a year to Hong Kong and 129 Roman Rd, E2 0QN, I love exploring and eating my way through some of the +44 20 8980 2037 best food the city has to offer. Here are my favourites. Lei Garden offers a classic Cantonese restaurant experience. There are four branches, but everyone says the one in Wan Chai is the best. I only sampled the yum cha menu, but it certainly hit the spot. The , fresh bamboo braised in soy, and rice noodle rolls with spring were standout dishes. 1/F, CNT Tower, 338 Fuchsia Dunlop's Top 5 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai, +852 2892 0333, leigarden.hk Salted fish and Manor Seafood Restaurant specialises in seafood, congee, as the name suggests, but for my money, the other stuff Chinese Restaurants in London recipe page 118 on the menu is often better. They are justifiably famous for their roast , which is pre-ordered as either a London’s Chinese fare is spread across the vast city, but here, celebrated half or a whole. It’s served with steamed bread, hoisin and cookbook author Fuchsia Dunlop narrows it down to her top five must-eats. spring onions, and a little caster to add extra crunch and sweetness: heaven on a plate. In fact, it was so good that I had to dine there twice. Other dishes worth a second visit include the tea-smoked chicken and the clay pot fried rice – the best I’ve ever had. F/G, 440 Jaffe Rd, Causeway MAOTAI KITCHEN Bay, +852 2836 9999 This is the only restaurant in Chong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant was recommended 44 London specialising in the fiery fare of to me by specialist Fuchsia Dunlop (see TOP TASTE little-known Guizhou, and is named after opposite page). There’s no English menu, but that’s not ROYAL CHINA CLUB the province’s famous liquor. The head chef a problem – simply point at any of the live seafood that The Royal China chain of restaurants all grew up in the countryside near the Guizhou- takes your fancy and choose the vegetables that you’d serve great dim sum, but the Royal China Hunan border, and sometimes seasons his like from those hanging on the front counter. This is a Club offers an extra dimension. The steamed dishes with litsea oil, which has a taste like truly local restaurant and one that I will keep returning to. dumplings are as delicate and delectable as lemongrass. The food has a refreshing 60 South Wall Rd, Kowloon City, +852 2383 311 you’d hope, and the sesame prawn rolls with sour-hot character. 12 Macclesfield The Four Seasons Hong Kong is firmly entrenched mango are superb. They also specialise St, W1D 5BP, +44 20 7437 8785, as one of my favourite hotels in the world. It has two in lobster, as you can see from the maotaikitchen.com three-star Michelin restaurants. Lung King Heen serves beady-eyed specimens hovering in delicate and delicious yum cha for lunch, while French the tanks. 40-42 Baker St, W1U restaurant Caprice is sensational from start to finish with 7AJ, +44 20 7486 3898 its open kitchen and views over Hong Kong – be sure to Fuchsia Dunlop’s most recent order the roasted Bresse chicken. 8 Finance St, Central, book is Every Grain of Rice: +852 3196 8888, fourseasons.com/hongkong Simple Chinese Home Cooking ($55, Bloomsbury).

104 FEAST FEAST 105 106 107

GLOBAL ROAMING

Slurping noodle soups at King of Noodles. From far left: tea-smoked eel rolls; Mission Chinese makes American- Chinese food hip; the signature crab at R&G Lounge; the Mission Chinese kitchen.

San Francisco’s SanChinatown Francisco’s Hit List stablished in the 1850s by an Second-generation Chinatown heavily occupied heyday in the 1960s, still R&G Lounge One glance around Great Eastern Restaurant Widely dipping sauce) are easily reason King of Noodles For a hidden industrious generation of Chinese restaurateur, Frank Wong was born in San remains one of the most densely populated the tables at this well-kept, considered among Chinatown’s enough to justify crossing the gem that’s well off the tourist railway workers and Gold Rush Francisco and has lived in Chinatown most neighbourhoods in the United States. wood-lined restaurant popular best dim sum joints, this gaudy border. 49 Stevenson St, +1 415 track, this modest, family-run hopefuls, San Francisco’s is the oldest of his life. His parents immigrated from Most of the action takes place along Grant with everyone from Asian kingdom of jade and brass is 541 4949, yanksing.com Northern Chinese diner in Chinatown in America and one of the largest in 1975 and their business, Avenue, the oldest street in San Francisco, businessmen to the Obama a hotspot for Chinese families, the nearby Sunset district is outside of Asia. Like all the best Chinatowns R&G Lounge, on Kearny Street has been and it’s here you’ll find the area’s official family, and you’ll discover that especially on weekends. The wait Mission Chinese Food Though a welcome treat. It’s known for around the world, you’ll find no end of a Chinatown fixture for almost 30 years. entrance – the Chinatown Gate – on Grant its specialty is the exceptional staff are from the get-in, get-out not strictly in Chinatown, chef its comforting soups, delicious bustling crowds, bright neon and all-round Frank says that although San Francisco’s Avenue at Bush Street. For a proper taste salt and pepper crab. 631 Kearny school of hospitality, but the Danny Bowien’s grungy pop- dumplings and handmade sensory overload. And unsurprisingly, there’s Chinese population has spread out to other of the locals’ Chinatown though, a Saturday St, +1 415 982 7877, 94108, a la carte menu offers plenty of up rates a worthy mention for noodles (which you’ll likely see no shortage of great eating, either. enclaves such as Richmond and Sunset, afternoon amble through the many produce rnglounge.com seafood and an excellent Peking elevating classic American- being stretched to order). Go Built around historic Portsmouth Square, Chinatown’s population remains almost and live markets along Stockton Street duck. 649 Jackson St, +1 415 986 Chinese food to hip new heights. for the rich, aromatic marinated San Francisco’s Chinatown district was the exclusively Chinese. “Its great because even (between Columbus and Broadway) is the Z&Y Restaurant If you’re keen 2500, greateasternsf.com Forget that it’s housed inside lamb noodle soup and the crisp main port of entry for Chinese immigrants though the amount of people has decreased ticket. Space is cramped and noise levels are to pray at the altar of all things a seedy-looking building; the green chive pancake. 1639 Irving from the 1840s to 1900s. Predominantly locally, it’s still the largest living population suitably cacophonous, with deals getting cut spicy, this authentic Sichuan Yank Sing Located just over the food here is seriously good. St, +1 415 566 8318 male, they came largely to seek work on the of Chinese in a Chinatown. The size of San left, right and centre. According to Frank, restaurant in the heart of Jackson Chinatown border in the nearby Think vibrant Chinese-inspired Transcontinental Railroad or hoping to strike Francisco’s Chinatown is small compared to “This street is what Chinatown is about. The Street makes a fitting temple. Financial District, this highly cuisine using mostly local and Golden Gate Bakery It’s said you it lucky in the great California Gold Rush. other major cities [in Asia], yet we still have a locals come here for all of their grocery needs Sichuan places are rather light awarded dim sum restaurant organic produce, served with can’t leave San Francisco without In 1906, the by then well-established huge Chinese population here,” he explains. and for the dim sum, which is excellent.” on the ground in SF (most are offers a decidedly more Tsingtao longnecks and experiencing Chinatown and neighbourhood was completely destroyed “I also love the fact that for [Chinese] Other favourites include the legendary Cantonese) and this one proves sophisticated and serene dining a large measure of rock and you can’t experience Chinatown by a huge earthquake, which flattened most immigrants, you don’t have to leave the Golden Gate Bakery for egg tarts and a worthy detour. The signature experience from the Chinatown roll swagger. Highlights include without a visit to Golden Gate of the surrounding city along with it. Later, neighbourhood. You can get everything here. Washington Bakery for “on-the-go food”. dish here is the ‘chicken with standard. Gracious staff deftly the tea-smoked eel roll with Bakery. Sure, out-the-door lines during the 1960s, changes in immigration You can easily survive here without having to For dim-sum, Frank recommends Great explosive chilli pepper’ and, like pilot the laden trolleys and the Chinese , braised pork are obligatory, but with the laws brought another big wave of immigrants speak English,” Frank says. Eastern Restaurant and City View, and adds it says, you can indeed expect excellent xiao long bao ( and cognac soy, and the hickory- pain comes plenty of gain; their (mostly from Hong Kong) and cemented the Indeed, the area is a jam-packed 24 blocks that no visit is complete without a trip to the a high-temperature explosion. soup dumplings filled with smoked cumin lamb ribs. 2234 famous egg custard tarts are area’s appeal as a world-renowned tourist and of crowded restaurants, residences, food Fortune Cookie Factory and a tasting at one 655 Jackson St, +1 415 981 8988, minced Kurobuta pork, served Mission St, +1 415 863 2800, some of the best in the city. dining destination. markets, temples and shops, and since its of the tea shops along Grant Street. zandyrestaurant.com with a -laced red missionchinesefood.com 1029 Grant Ave, +1 415 781 2627

106 FEAST FEAST 107 108 109

GLOBAL ROAMING

A feast at Manila Sunset, including the bibingkang galapong, a rice flour cake baked in a banana leaf. Clockwise from far left: Chris Aure of Zarlitos; burgers from Filipino fast food chain Jollibee; local favourite Manila Sunset; Island Pacific Supermarket; dining in at Zarlitos; pastries from Valerio’s Bakeshop; Manila Sunset; cooling down with halo-halo at Conching’s Café. San Diego’s

hough it may be better known Kitchen is National City born-and-bred and of my favourite dishes growing up was bopis, for its zoo, the laid-back harbour he’s a passionate ambassador for the area’s a sweet, spiced dish of chopped pork innards city of San Diego is also home to vibrant local food scene. There’s no denying (typically heart and lung), with sautéed one of America’s biggest Filipino Craig’s pride when he speaks about his peppers and onions. I know it sounds a little communities. On the outskirts of hometown, and when you speak to fellow local scary, but it’s delicious,” Craig assures us. town lays a hidden gem called National City – a business owners, it’s plain to see he’s not alone. Of course, nothing beats his mum’s version, culinary sweet spot where you’ll find plenty of Having long been relegated to the ‘obscure but it’s a dish he still can’t help ordering warm welcomes and some of the best examples and misunderstood’ category, Filipino food whenever he visits a traditional Filipino turo- of authentic Filipino food outside of Manila. in San Diego, according to Craig, is enjoying turo (point-point) restaurant, like the always- Little Manila Located almost two hours south of Los newfound appreciation from non-Filipinos, busy Tita’s Kitchenette, located in a busy Angeles and with a population of around having found fresh new influences from suburban strip mall off East Plaza Boulevard. 180,000 Filipinos, San Diego county is home other cuisines – like Mexican and Korean The name ‘point-point’ refers to the to the second-largest Filipino-American – to crossover easily into the mainstream. ordering process – everything is served in population in the United States. “Both my parents were born in the bain-maries, so that customers can point to From the early 1900s to the late 1940s, Philippines – my mum is from Tagudin and a mix of the dishes that they want to order. large waves of Filipinos came to the area as Dad is from Bacoor City in Cavite,” Craig Craig recommends it as a good place to start for cheap hired labour to work on farms and explains. “My three older brothers and I grew anyone new to the bold, vinegar-tinged flavours in San Diego’s many hotels and restaurants, up here in National City, so even though we’ve of the Philippines. “There’s so much to choose while many others sought work at the nearby got that whole Californian thing, we’ve always from; all the classic dishes – adobo (pork or US Navy base. Since then, the majority has been surrounded by a strong Filipino culture,” chicken stewed in vinegar and soy), diniguan settled in the National City neighbourhood, he says proudly. (pork stewed with pig’s blood and spices), sisig with Filipino residents making up almost While the average Californian teen’s food (fried pork with onion, chillies and lime juice) 17 per cent of the area’s population. lexicon is lucky to extend beyond big-chain – they’re all there.” Talented young Filipino-American chef burgers and fried chicken, Craig’s mother’s Lined with moulded-plastic seats and Craig Jimenez of San Diego’s pan-Asian Gang home cooking convinced him otherwise. “One bright green and yellow tiles, Tita’s is a modest

108 FEAST FEAST 109 110 111111

GLOBAL ROAMING

Fried whitebait and crispy pork rinds from Chic Boy Chicken and Baboy.

SAN DIEGO’S HIT LIST

Tita’s Kitchenette Try the Conching’s Café and Ice Cream sinigang, a hot-sour stewed Parlor Another excellent turu- Indian-Chinese fried cauliflower pork broth with guava, tomato turo restaurant, with a legion of (gobi Manchurian), and lemon juice, and the talented Filipino ladies out back. recipe page 112 sisig, delicious crisp, roast pork You’ll get exceptional value for with a fresh onion, lime juice money, but save space! One side and vinegar dressing. Service is of Conching’s serves as an ice- perfunctory and, whether dining cream parlour and does what we in or taking away, everything’s think might just be San Diego’s served in foam containers with best halo-halo, a type of Filipino plastic cutlery. 2720 E Plaza sundae with fruit, chopped jelly, Blvd, +1 619 472 5801 red beans and ube (purple yam) ice-cream. 3400 E 8th St, +1 619 yet cheerful place, typical of the neighbourhood. Much like Manila Sunset Since opening 470 6993, conchings.com everywhere else in the area, there’s a small army of middle- in the early 1990s, this ‘quick- aged Filipino ‘aunties’ running the show, too. “This place serve’ restaurant has become Chic Boy Chicken and Baboy is your classic point-point,” Craig explains. “I love it. It looks a favourite for Filipino expats This tiny takeaway is a homage kind of dive-y, but it’s straight up”. yearning for a nostalgic taste to all things deep-fried and Growing up, Craig remembers National City’s Filipino of home. You’ll see a broad mix fatty, but the snacks here are food scene as fairly traditional, though now he says, “there of locals here including young undeniably tasty and not to are more and more restaurants and bakeries sharing families and slick-uniformed be missed. Think chicharrones Mumbai's Chinese regional dishes beyond the typical that the US Navy staffers. Don’t miss (deep-fried salty pork rind), community has become accustomed to.” the bibingkang galapong (aka fried dilis (whitebait) and fried meets Indian And there’s yet more change in the air too, says Craig. ) – a fluffy, rice flour chicken skin, all sold in paper “What’s exciting now is the new generation of young cake made with eggs and bags by the pound, as well as t a counter facing a dusty street lined establishment in every neighbourhood in Filipino-Americans who have grown up here and who have milk, baked in a banana leaf juicy roast pork belly with crisp with parked scooters, a boy tosses florid, Mumbai. Five-star hotels serve chicken started to mash-up traditional Filipino food with a Mexican and topped with sugar, freshly crackling. 2220 E Plaza Blvd T-1, greasy noodles in a wok using a long The young man may not know this, but chilli dry, restaurants make good money influence.” And it makes perfect sense – San Diego is grated coconut and white +1 619 472 2449 metal paddle. To his right is a grimy he’s preparing a meal that started taking from crispy thread paneer, street-side barely 35km from the Mexican border. “In SoCal [Southern cheese. 925 E Plaza Blvd, +1 619 desk covered with brightly coloured bowls shape at least 230 years ago when the Hakka vendors stuff noodles with chilli and California], Mexican food is considered ‘local’. Pretty much 474 0421, manilasunset.com Valerio’s Bakeshop Filipinos and buckets. There is , chopped moved to to work at the bustling soy sauce into their South Indian rice everyone eats tacos – no matter what their background.” love their baked goods and in green chillies, ginger and garlic pastes, finely port and in its tanneries, and settled in a crepes, while small local restaurant chains Craig says that Filipinos are hugely family-focused and Zarlitos During the week, this National City, they really love chopped coriander, onions, battered fried region called Tangra. Around 1850, some of offer Punjabi and South Indian dishes love to entertain, and Filipino eateries all do a swift trade in second-generation, family- Valerio’s. You’ll find traditional chicken, a cornstarch slurry, angry-looking this Chinese population moved to Mumbai alongside chicken Manchurian. generously portioned takeaway ‘party trays’. Filipinos will owned restaurant is a traditional favourites such as pan de sal chilli-garlic sauce, cauliflower florets, a heap to work in the docks and factories. The west This last dish has no connection to also eat at any time of the day. “Breakfast, lunch – it’s all turu-turo, but on weekends, son (salted bread roll that’s popular of cooked noodles, eggs, food colouring coast city had a thriving Chinese population Manchu cuisine – it is said to be invented the same,” he laughs. “For the most part, Filipinos will eat Chris Aure takes over the kitchen for breakfast), as well as pan de and a bowl of powdered masalas. After of nearly 5000 families until the 1962 Indo- by Kolkata-born Nelson Wang, who tossed the same kind of food at any time of the day.” serving his inspired version of ube (soft sweet bread filled with the noodles are done, he slops them into a China war, when most of them fled or were soy sauce instead of masala into a chicken Up to now, businesses in National City have dealt Filipino/So-Cal fusion. Think purple yam paste) and leche flan flimsy plastic pouch. He pours another glug made to leave. All that remains of Mumbai’s dish with Indian flavours such as ginger, almost exclusively with a Filipino clientele, which means adobo and Filipino-style (Filipino-style crème caramel). of oil into the wok and cracks an egg into it. Chinatown today is a temple and a cemetery, garlic, chillies and coriander while he was that the integrity of regional cuisine that you’ll find here tacos stuffed with lechon sisig or Their cheese rolls (cream The fried egg goes over the noodles and the but the community’s impact on the city’s a line cook at a local members-only club. remains blissfully unadulterated. And though change is longanisa (sweet pork sausage). cheese-filled pastries) are bag is knotted up and swiftly transported food has been massive and sweeping. A few years later, in 1983, he opened afoot in the form of deliciously creative Filipino-Mexican 505 E. 8th Street, +1 619 474 always the first to run out. 2220 by a delivery boy to an office in Mumbai’s Today Chindian, or Indian-Chinese fusion, you can rest assured that’s far from a bad thing. 1144, zarlitos.com E Plaza Blvd, +1 619 472 9948 burgeoning mega-suburb of Andheri. food, is found in every category of eating

110 FEAST FEAST 111 GLOBAL ROAMING

China Garden, Mumbai’s first fine-dining Indian-Chinese restaurant, attracting celebrities and socialites. Around the same time, food trucks with names like Hungry Eyes painted over with red dragons parked on major commercial streets, and Mumbai’s INDIAN-CHINESE FRIED Chinese restaurant scene exploded. Ever CAULIFLOWER since, spicy, oily, fried and saucy Chinese GOBI MANCHURIAN food with Indian flavours (or is it the other Serves 2 • Prep 15 mins • Cooking 20 mins way around?) has stayed among Mumbai’s favourite cuisines, feeding wealthy 300g cauliflower, trimmed, cut into florets industrialists and broke students alike. 50g (⅓ cup) cornflour “All this time, Chindian food used to be 1 tbs plain flour only popular here in ,” says Hemant ½ tsp white pepper he two major waves of Vietnamese Vegetable oil, to deep-fry, plus 2 tbs extra immigration to the US took place in Oberoi, grand executive chef at The Taj T 1 onion, thinly sliced 1975, at the end of the Vietnam War, and in Mahal Palace Mumbai, who serves Chindian 1 garlic , thinly sliced 1978, when refugees fled the Communist dishes at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant 3cm-piece ginger, finely chopped government’s re-education camps. Golden Dragon. Now, thanks to the Indian 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced Immigrants continued to arrive in steady diaspora, Sydney has Indian Chopsticks, 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced numbers through the 1980s and 1990s. Melbourne has Mumbai Hakka, and New 1 tbs dark soy sauce Some 1.5 million (as of 2010) Vietnamese York City has a called Chinese 1 tbs light soy sauce call the US home, and more than 300,000 Mirch. There is even a Chindian restaurant 1 tbs Maggi Seasoning* of them live in Orange County, part of in Hong Kong called Branto Pure Veg 1 tsp caster sugar the Los Angeles metropolitan area. Little Indian Food in Tsim Sha Tsui that offers Chopped coriander leaves and steamed Saigon began there with the Bolsa Mini vegetable Manchurian on its menu. rice (optional), to serve Mall, a single plaza with a few offices and shops, and has since grown to an 1 Bring a saucepan of salted water to the area covering just under eight square Mumbai’s Hit List boil over high heat and blanch cauliflower kilometres, with thousands of Vietnamese- for 2 minutes or until tender. Drain run businesses. When it comes to eating China Garden Nelson Wang refuses to cauliflower, then pat dry with paper towel. here, locals choose a spot based on the share his recipe for chicken Manchurian, 2 Combine flours and pepper in a bowl particular dish they crave – many of these but you can try the inventor’s version of with 1 tsp salt. Fill a deep-fryer or large places have one specialty, sometimes Mumbai’s most loved Chindian dish at his saucepan one-third full with oil and heat more, that they’ve perfected. restaurant. 123 Om Chambers, AK Marg, over medium heat to 180C (or until a Kemp’s Corner, +91 22 2363 0841; Gabbana cube of bread turns golden in 10 seconds). OC'S HIT LIST House, 15th Road, Khar (West), +91 22 2600 Working in 2 batches, toss cauliflower in 2626, chinagardenindia.com the seasoned flour, then gently drop into Binh Dan The specialty here is goat dishes, oil and fry for 5 minutes or until crisp and they offer a seven-course feast of goat. Jim-Me’s Kitchen Students and young single and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon 10040 McFadden St, Westminster, 92683, men in the neighbourhood are fond of JK’s, and drain on paper towel. +1 714 839 7050 as they call it, for its satisfying, spicy dishes. 3 Heat extra 2 tbs oil in a wok over The beef chilli and their spare ribs are the medium-high heat. Add onion and cook Brodard Try the grilled pork spring rolls. stuff of legend. 12 St Peter’s Road, off Hill for 1 minute, then add garlic, ginger, chilli 9892 Westminster Ave, #R, Garden Grove, Road, Bandra (West), +91 22 2643 6301 and celery, and cook for a further minute 92844, +1 714 530 1744, brodard.net or until fragrant. Add fried cauliflower, 5 Spice With 10 locations in the city, a menu soy sauces, Maggi Seasoning and sugar, Thanh Lich A local favourite for a bowl that lists hundreds of dishes, and a good and cook for 2 minutes or until cauliflower of pho with oxtail or filet mignon. 14500 delivery network, 5 Spice satisfies every is coated in sauce and celery is slightly Brookhurst St, Westminster, 92683, +1 714 variety of Chindian craving. Try the spicy softened. Scatter with coriander and serve 775 6686 crab soup, the chicken in burnt chilli sauce with rice, if desired. and the paneer kung pao. 296/A Perin * Maggi Seasoning is available from Quan Hy Go for the sticky rice and Nariman Street, Fort, +91 22 3015 1591 Asian food shops. refreshing Vietnamese salads. 9727 Bolsa Ave, Westminster, 92683, +1 714 775 7179

112 FEAST 114

GLOBAL ROAMING

Paris’s Le Quartier Chinois The Asian community in Paris is spread It may not be the most picturesque out among three Chinatown neighbourhoods, of Chinatowns, but its wide sidewalks and but the largest of these – indeed the largest village-like atmosphere makes it a pleasant Asian community in Europe – is located in spot for a stroll and a bite, whether you’re the thirteenth arrondissement, in the city’s in the mood for a huge dining hall, a tiny south-east. noodle joint, or a bookstore that doubles It was founded in the 1970s by refugees as a counter. from Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, but a Sometimes dubbed the Golden Triangle, large Chinese population from China has wedged between two adjoining avenues, since joined their ranks, and together they Avenue de Choisy and Avenue d’Ivry, it run the majority of restaurants and businesses is most easily accessed by metro (exit at in the area. Olympiades, on line 14, or Tolbiac, on line 7).

Quang, 26, website manager What brings you to the Quartier Chinois? I have a work appointment not far from here, so I thought I’d swing Mélina, 25, police by Thieng Heng officer (right) and treat myself to What brings you to the Quartier a bánh mì for lunch. Chinois? I live here, and my I love the one with mother [Marie-Aimee, pictured the caramelised pork. left] came up to visit me from Do you cook Asian Montpellier, in the south of dishes yourself? I France. We went out to get do! My family is from Baptiste, 19, student something for lunch, then we’ll go Vietnam, so I can What brings you to the Quartier Chinois? I am very home and eat while we catch up. make a few classics, interested in Asian cultures, so I love to come here and What do you like to eat around and come to the soak in the ambiance. I am also planning to travel to Asia here? Ang is a great Chinese Quartier Chinois to next year, so I guess this is my way of preparing for the trip. rotisserie, as you can see from the shop for ingredients. Have you done any shopping here today? I have just lacquered birds in the window. I make my own bánh bought some bottled green tea. I love to hang out in Some say it’s the best in Paris, and mì from time to time, the various supermarkets and try to figure out what on weekends, there’s a line down but I work long hours, everything is. It can be puzzling if you don’t have a more the sidewalk. Their roasted pork so it’s usually easier experienced friend to show you around the different is particularly good, but I’m fond to grab one here. aisles, but I like the adventure! of their steamed crêpes, too.

114 FEAST 116

GLOBAL ROAMING

epending on who you speak to, Toronto has up to five Chinatowns. It’s not surprising, given that the city has one of the largest ethnically Chinese populations in the world, with a history of Chinese immigration dating back to the 1870s. The hub around the intersection of Spadina Avenue and Dundas Street West in Downtown Toronto is one of the most accessible and iconic. Braised beef with shiitake mushrooms Fong On Foods This narrow shop specialises in tofu and , which is freshly made at the back and snapped up by loyal local fans. 46 Kensington BRAISED BEEF BRISKET WITH 2 Preheat oven to 120C. Bring a large Ave, +1 416 598 7828 SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS saucepan of water to the boil and working Serves 6 • Prep 20 mins, plus ½ hr soaking in batches, add beef and blanch for 2 minutes Asian Legend • Cooking 3 hrs 20 mins or until pale. Drain. The Peking duck is a crowd-pleaser and the 3 Heat oil in a large claypot or casserole pan dumplings are a hit at lunchtime. 418 Dundas 12 dried shiitake mushrooms* over medium heat. Add garlic and ginger, and St West, +1 416 977 3909, asianlegend.ca 1kg beef brisket, cut into 3cm pieces cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until fragrant. 2 tbs vegetable oil Add beef, rice wine, sugar, spices, tangerine Chinese Traditional Bun 4 garlic , very finely chopped peel, soy sauces, 1 tsp each salt and pepper, Opened by a homesick engineer from 2 tbs finely chopped ginger mushrooms and reserved soaking liquid, Shaanxi, this eatery has introduced 60ml (¼ cup) Chinese rice wine (shaoxing)* and bring to a simmer. Cover with a lid, Torontonians to the delights of dan dan mian 3 tsp caster sugar then cover the pot tightly with several layers (Sichuan spicy pork noodles). Basement, 2 star of foil to seal well. Transfer to oven and cook 536 Dundas St West, +1 416 299 9011 4 dried chillies for 3 hours or until beef is very tender. 4 dried tangerine peel pieces* 4 Add spring onion, stir to combine, then Lai Wah Heen 2 tbs light soy sauce transfer pot to the stove over medium-low A world away from cheap Chinese takeaways, this is a Cantonese fine-dining experience that 3 tsp dark soy sauce heat. Combine cornflour and 2 tbs water in could rival some Hong Kong counterparts. 6 spring onions, trimmed, cut into 5cm pieces, a small bowl to form a smooth paste. Stirring 2/F, Metropolitan Hotel, 108 Chestnut St, plus extra thinly sliced, to serve constantly, add to braised beef and cook for +1 416 977 9899, laiwahheen.com 2½ tsp cornflour 1 minute or until liquid comes to a simmer Steamed rice and chopped long red and thickens slightly. Serve braised beef Taste of China Seafood Restaurant chillies (optional), to serve immediately with rice, extra spring onion and Open until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays, this chopped red chilli, if desired. largely Cantonese joint is one of the favourite 1 Soak mushrooms in boiling water * Dried shiitake mushrooms, Chinese rice wine hangouts of Toronto’s chefs. 338 Spadina Ave, for 30 minutes or until soft. Drain, and dried tangerine peel are available from +1 416 348 8828, tasteofchinarestaurant.ca reserving 125ml (½ cup) soaking liquid. Asian food shops.

116 FEAST 118

GLOBALGLOBAL ROAMING ROAMING

LAMB AND CORIANDER * Chinese rice wine is available from Asian PORK SPARE RIBS WITH DUMPLINGS food shops; substitute dry sherry. SPICY SALT Makes 60 • Prep 1½ hrs • Cooking ½ hr * Gow gee wrappers are from the refrigerated Serves 4 • Prep 15 mins, plus 3 hrs marinating section of supermarkets and Asian food shops. • Cooking ½ hr 750g lamb shoulder, minced (ask Chinese red vinegar is slightly sweeter than

* LEANNE your butcher to do this for you) Chinese black vinegar (chinkiang). Both are 1.2kg pork spare ribs, cut into 4 garlic cloves, crushed available from Asian food shops. individual ribs 6 spring onions, very finely chopped 3 tsp Sichuan peppercorns* 2 bunches coriander, leaves, stems and roots SALTED FISH AND PEANUT 2 tsp dried chilli flakes washed, very finely chopped CONGEE 2 tsp salt flakes 1½ tbs Chinese rice wine (shaoxing)* Serves 6 • Prep ½ hr, plus overnight soaking 300g (2 cups) cornflour 1 tbs light soy sauce • Cooking 2½ hrs Vegetable oil, to deep-fry 2½ tsp dark soy sauce

125ml (½ cup) cold chicken stock or water 105g (¾ cup) unskinned Marinade PREPARATION FOOD & RECIPES 4 x 300g packets gow gee wrappers* 150g dried salted fish* 2½ tbs Chinese rice wine (shaoxing)* 165g (¾ cup) medium-grain rice 1½ tbs dark soy sauce Vinegar dipping sauce 2.5L chicken stock or water 2 tbs light soy sauce 6cm-piece ginger, cut into julienne 2½ tbs very thinly shredded ginger 1 tbs caster sugar 250ml (1 cup) Chinese red 400g piece pork neck 5 garlic cloves, crushed or black vinegar* 750ml (3 cups) vegetable oil 6 wrappers, cut into 5mm strips 1 To make marinade, combine all ingredients 1 Combine lamb mince, garlic, spring onion, Coriander sprigs, thinly sliced spring onions in a large bowl and stir to dissolve sugar. coriander, rice wine and soy sauces in a large and chilli oil*, to serve Add pork ribs and, using your hands, mix bowl. Using your hand and stirring in the well, making sure ribs are coated all over same direction, slowly mix in the stock until 1 Soak peanuts in cold water overnight. in marinade. Cover bowl tightly with combined. Mix in 1½ tsp salt and 1 tsp black 2 The next day, drain peanuts, then soak plastic wrap, then refrigerate for 3 hours pepper until well combined. in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain. or overnight, turning the ribs occasionally. 2 Working with 6 wrappers at a time, place 3 Combine fish, peanuts, rice, stock, ginger 2 Meanwhile, heat a small, heavy-based wrappers flat on a board. Lightly brush each and pork in a large saucepan and bring to frying pan over medium-low heat, add with water, then place another wrapper on a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce Sichuan peppercorns and toast, tossing top for double thickness, pressing firmly heat to low and cook for 1 hour, then remove occasionally, for 3 minutes or until to seal and pressing around the edges to fish and set aside to cool. Cook congee for peppercorns are fragrant, taking care not thin them slightly. Place 2 slightly heaped a further 30 minutes or until pork is very to burn them. Using a mortar and pestle, teaspoonfuls of the lamb mixture in the tender. Remove pork and set aside to cool. grind peppercorns to a coarse powder. centre of each double wrapper, then fold Cook congee, stirring occasionally, for a Place in a bowl with chilli flakes and salt, over to enclose filling and form a half-moon further 1 hour or until rice is soft and falling stir to combine and set aside. shape. Press the edges firmly together apart and the mixture has thickened. 3 Drain ribs, discarding marinade. Fill and pleat each edge to seal. Repeat with 4 Meanwhile, remove fat and gristle from a large saucepan one-third full with oil and remaining wrappers and lamb mixture pork and thinly slice. Remove skin and bones heat over medium heat to 170C (or until to make about 60 dumplings. from fish and flake flesh into small pieces. a cube of bread turns golden in 15 seconds). 3 To make vinegar dipping sauce, divide 5 Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat Working in batches, dust ribs in cornflour ginger among individual dipping bowls, until hot. Working in batches, deep-fry to coat, shaking off any excess. Carefully add then pour over vinegar. wonton strips for 20 seconds or until golden half the ribs to oil and cook, turning halfway, 4 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and for 8 minutes or until meat is tender and over high heat. Add about one-third of the drain on paper towel. ribs are crisp and golden. Remove with dumplings, stirring gently to prevent them 6 When congee is ready, stir in pork and a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. sticking to the base of the pan while the fish. Add a little extra stock or water to Repeat with remaining ribs. water returns to the boil. Cook dumplings thin congee if necessary. Divide among 4 Serve spare ribs immediately sprinkled JUSTINE POOLE JUSTINE for 8 minutes or until the filling is cooked large bowls, scatter over fried wonton skins, with spicy salt. BEN DEARNLEY (FOOD), CLOTILDE DUSOULIER (PARIS), PETER TARASIUK (LA, SAN FRANCISCO & SAN DIEGO) & GETTY IMAGES GETTY & IMAGES DIEGO) SAN & FRANCISCO (LA, SAN TARASIUK PETER (PARIS), DUSOULIER CLOTILDE (FOOD), DEARNLEY BEN through. Drain and keep warm. Repeat coriander, spring onion and serve drizzled * Sichuan peppercorns are available from with remaining dumplings. with chilli oil. select delis and Asian food shops. STYLING 5 Serve dumplings immediately with * Dried salted fish and chilli oil are * Chinese rice wine (shaoxing) is from OC), & YORK (NEW YANG WINNIE & (LONDON) DUNLOP FUCHSIA (PARIS), DUSOULIER CLOTILDE DIEGO), SAN & FRANCISCO (LA, CLANCEY SAN LEANNE (MUMBAI), BAJAJ ROSHNI dipping sauce. available from Asian food shops. Asian food shops. Substitute dry sherry. KITCHEN KITCHEN WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY

118118 FEAST FEAST