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Cultural Sustainability and Rural Food Tourism in Two Canadian Wine Regions

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Cultural Sustainability and Rural Food Tourism in Two Canadian Wine Regions Cultural Sustainability and Rural Food Tourism in Two Canadian Wine Regions by Danielle Maria Robinson A Thesis presented to The University of Guelph In partial fulfilment of requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Rural Studies Guelph, Ontario, Canada © Danielle Maria Robinson, June, 2020 ABSTRACT CULTURAL SUSTAINABILITY AND RURAL FOOD TOURISM IN TWO CANADIAN WINE REGIONS Danielle Maria Robinson Advisor: University of Guelph, 2020 Dr. Wayne Caldwell This interdisciplinary research analyses the relationships between cultural sustainability and food tourism by asking how rural tourism stakeholders understand these concepts, mobilize the interrelationships, and to what purpose. Researchers concerned with the complex, interrelated, and multi-scalar relationships between culture and rural tourism development have explored both positive and negative dimensions in diverse contexts; however, more systematic attention to the concept of cultural sustainability is needed to design supportive rural tourism policies and processes. Wine and food tourism is one of the fastest growing rural tourism niches and intersects with critical cultural sustainability issues such as local food systems, food sovereignty, and agricultural land use, therefore, it is particularly important to explore cultural sustainability in food and wine tourism environments. Comparative case studies in two Canadian wine regions, British Columbia's South Okanagan Valley and Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley, are used to gain a better understanding of the relationships between local food cultures, rural tourism development, and sustainability in different provincial settings with a particular emphasis on the role of related public policy, planning and governance. As this research aims to understand rural food tourism’s potential contribution to cultural sustainability, an appreciative approach was used. Secondary research, semi-structured interviews, and tourism strategic plans provide insights into how culturally sustainable food and wine tourism is conceptualized, recognized, developed, supported, and promoted in each case. Findings are discussed in relation to Soini and Dessein’s (2016) framework for culture in, for, and as sustainability. Three central recommendations are proposed: explicitly engaging with the idea and implications of local, exploring transformative potential, and future research that takes comparative, appreciative and reflective approaches. DEDICATION “Culture, when it comes to food, is of course a fancy word for your mom.” Michael Pollan This dissertation is dedicated to my mom, the source of my relentless curiosity and belief that people become what you tell them they are. iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I wish to express deep gratitude: To the Rural Policy Learning Commons (RPLC) who generously supported this research with a Research & Exchanges Service Rural Policy Research Grant and was a source of connection, learning, and support throughout my doctoral studies. To my advisor Dr. Wayne Caldwell who provided the perfect balance between freedom and direction with unfailing good humour. To Dr. Sheri Longboat and Dr. Al Lauzon for their role on my supervisory committee, and to Dr. Doug Ramsey and Dr. Ryan Gibson for their role on my examining committee. Their thoughtful questions and suggestions made my work better. To the late Dr. Nonita Yap, my first Rural Studies professor, for her high standards. To faculty, staff and students in SEDRD for welcoming and facilitating my participation. To Dr. Kathleen Kevany at Dalhousie University who acted as a conduit to community introductions in Nova Scotia and was a delightful travel partner. To Okanagan College, the impetus for this academic journey. Being a learner and a teacher is an ongoing privilege. To interview participants for sharing their knowledge and perspective. Your vision for sustainable food tourism is inspiring. To my family, especially my sister, Francesca, for reading the whole thing and my husband Scott, and children Liam and Sophie, for their love, support and encouragement. And finally, to the South Okanagan, my home. v Table of Contents Abstract .................................................................................................... ii Dedication ............................................................................................... iv Acknowledgements ................................................................................. v Acronyms ................................................................................................ xi List of Tables ......................................................................................... xiii List of Figures ....................................................................................... xiv List of Appendices ................................................................................ xvi Chapter 1 Introduction ............................................................................ 1 1.1 Topic and context ........................................................................... 2 1.2 Relevance and importance ............................................................ 5 1.3 Goal, Objectives and Research Questions .................................. 8 1.4 Overview of the structure ............................................................ 11 Chapter 2 Literature Review ................................................................. 12 2.1 Sustainability ................................................................................ 13 2.2 Culture ........................................................................................... 20 2.2.1 Food culture ......................................................................................... 21 2.2.2 Culture in policy, planning and governance .......................................... 23 2.3 Cultural Sustainability ................................................................. 24 2.3.1 Culture in sustainability ........................................................................ 31 2.3.2 Culture for sustainability ....................................................................... 33 2.3.3 Culture as sustainability ....................................................................... 34 2.4 Globalization processes and cultural change ........................... 37 vi 2.5 Farms and food ............................................................................ 44 2.6 Rural Tourism ............................................................................... 52 2.6.1 Agritourism ........................................................................................... 58 2.6.2 Wine tourism ........................................................................................ 62 2.6.3 Food tourism ........................................................................................ 66 2.7 Themes .......................................................................................... 71 2.7.1 Landscape ........................................................................................ 72 2.7.2 Authenticity ........................................................................................... 73 2.7.3 Place .................................................................................................... 75 2.7.4 Local ..................................................................................................... 77 2.8 Research Openings ...................................................................... 81 Chapter 3 Methodology ......................................................................... 83 3.1 Research paradigm ...................................................................... 84 3.2 Research design ........................................................................... 91 3.3 Methods ........................................................................................ 94 3.4 Limitations .................................................................................. 108 Chapter 4 Comparative Cases ............................................................ 116 4.1 British Columbia’s South Okanagan Valley ............................. 116 4.2 Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley ................................................ 130 4.3 Case comparison highlights ..................................................... 140 vii Chapter 5 Findings on understanding and operationalizing rural food tourism and cultural sustainability ............................................................... 143 5.1 South Okanagan food culture ................................................... 145 5.1.1 Production and distribution ................................................................. 147 5.1.2 Consumption ...................................................................................... 150 5.1.3 Understandings of food sovereignty ................................................... 156 5.1.4 Understandings of sustainability ......................................................... 161 5.2 Annapolis Valley food culture ................................................... 165 5.2.1 Production and distribution ................................................................. 166 5.2.2 Consumption ...................................................................................... 171 5.2.3 Understandings of food sovereignty ................................................... 180 5.2.4 Understandings of sustainability ........................................................
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