LargestThe Fib Inside: Pg. 14 IMPORTERS SUE U.S./3 EUROPE GETS ACTIVE/13 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • December 2, 2004 • $2.00 er CompaniesList Sportswear Start Your Engines PARIS — Motocross-inspired styles, including the classic snap-collar jacket and skinny jeans with patches, are hitting a fever pitch in France. Here, Diesel’s leather jacket and Levi’s denim jeans. For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7.

Neiman Marcus Magic: Net Profits Soar 14% On Luxury and Fashion By Meredith Derby URENT FOLCHER

BY LA NEW YORK — The luxury machine that is Neiman Marcus Group Inc. continues to motor along. Helped by increased full-price selling and a continuation of stringent inventory , BOTH AT CALLISTE; STYLED , BOTH AT management, fiscal first-quarter earnings at Neiman’s rose 14 percent as revenues increased 10.9 percent. In the period ended Oct. 30, the Dallas- based company earned $64.1 million, or $1.30 a diluted share, including a $9.3 TRICE LAROCH AND MAKEUP BY JENNY TRICE LAROCH AND MAKEUP BY million loss on the sale of the company’s Chef’s Catalog net of taxes. Results in the latest quarter compared with a profit See Full-Price, Page8 ANNACONE/ELITE; HAIR BY PA ANNACONE/ELITE; HAIR BY PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: REBECCA L KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL With better full-price selling and stringent inventory management, Neiman ™ 1 Marcus Group earnings rose 14 percent as sales gained 10.9 percent. USA-ITA filed suit against five government agencies seeking an injunction A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 3 against further review of threat-based China safeguard petitions. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated The U.S. economy is growing, but consumer spending remains uneven 3 across the country, the Federal Reserve’s Beige Book report revealed. FOLLOWING THE CURRENT EYE: Two startling new productions update the venerable classics on the cutting edge of Los Angeles’ contemporary arts scene…Tea on the Left Bank. Women increasingly return to styles they know and love 4 FASHION: With oil-splattered jeans and elbow pads galore, motocross chic “Keep your eyes out for a black sweater and a clothing purchases are replacements of the current 6 is revving up Europe’s denim and sportswear scene. denim skirt,” Samantha, a 30-year-old teacher from styles they own, 48% of women in this age group ACTIVE: Outdoor apparel brands in Europe, once selling only at the foot of New York, reminded her mother, Marianne, on a claimed to be buying new and different, a jump 13 its highest peaks, are taking their sporty message to the city streets. recent shopping trip. Marianne responded with a from 38% a decade ago. LVMH has ambitious plans for China over the next year, executives revealed request of her own. “Be sure to look for a white But there’s good news no matter what you’re 16 at the International Herald Tribune’s luxury conference in Hong Kong. blouse and navy pants.” Although these desired looking for today. Explains DeFranco from Cotton garments can already be found in Incorporated, “There is no right Classified Advertisements ...... 17-19 both mother and daughter’s or wrong at the moment. There To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is existing wardrobes, they are isn’t a definitive hemline, pant [email protected], using the individual’s name. always on the lookout for fresh silhouette or jacket length. There WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 updates of their most favored are influences from almost every FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 115. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional items. “We know what we like,” decade in fashion right now so issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three asserts Marianne. it’s easy to pick what you like additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; An increasing number of from what’s out there.” She adds, Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, women feel as Samantha and “Ten years ago, things were far Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Marianne do. When the Cotton more trend-oriented, and I President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at think the data showing women additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. recently compiled a 10-year “It’s about cultivating a sense of style preferring what they know to POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. that is uniquely yours. Women know FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR comparison of consumer something new and different DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is behaviors, they found that there what items work for them and it’s reflects that. Today it’s all about required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new reassuring to have those items in subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production was a significant increase in personal style.” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, women who stated that their multiples in our wardrobes.” Transcending from trend to please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild typical new clothing purchases — Randi Lane, basic is certainly true in denim, magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Catwalk Productions screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive were replacements of current observes Moore. “Denim is now these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED items, edging out items that were considered new a true basic and not just about a trend. Women will MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND and different. Fifty percent of Generation X female even come back to the same brand for a good TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED consumers, aged 26 to 39 today, said that their update; it’s about finding what they like and sticking TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE typical purchases were replacements, which represents with it.” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. a strong increase from the 40% of respondents who Moore’s assertions are supported by the Monitor’s made that same claim a decade ago. Baby Boomers, generational consumer comparisons; denim ownership aged 40 to 58 today, stayed consistent in seeking out was up among all age groups in 2004. Female familiar clothing items; 58% of female respondents respondents in Generation X own 8.12 pairs of In Brief in 2004 stated that they were replacing current denim jeans, Baby Boomers owned 6.89, and items, up from 55% 10 years ago. women in The Greatest Generation owned 5.14. “Women want to make good choices,” shares Linda This compares favorably to the 7.43, 6.62 and 4.83 ● J. CREW REFINANCES: J. Crew Group Inc. has entered into a DeFranco, women’s wear trend forecaster with owned by women respectively in 1995. commitment letter with Wachovia Bank National Association and Congress Financial Corp. to refinance a $180 million se- Cotton Incorporated. “As they grow more confident But in addition to denim, are there any other cured loan agreement among J. Crew Operating Corp. and cer- with their own style, they come to trust that above all.” items that continually make it on to women’s tain of its subsidiaries, according to a Wednesday filing with Agrees Wenlan Chai, who designs for Twinkle, shopping lists? “Women are always looking for the Securities and Exchange Commission. The refinanced fa- “Women have a Typical New Clothing Purchases black pants; they cility will have a five-year term and provide up to $170 million comfort level don’t want them of revolving loans and letters of credit to J. Crew Operating and with what they Generation X Baby Boomer The Greatest Generation to fade to gray or its subsidiaries on similar terms to those in the existing facili- 1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/- 1995 2004 +/- ty. The existing facility began on Dec. 23, 2002 and provides re- 16-29 26-39 30-48 40-58 49-66 59-70 go out of style. know. They don’t volving loans of up to $160 million, supplemental loans of up to want to feel that New & Different 60% 50% -10.8 45% 42% -3.5 38% 48% 10.2 Camel-colored $20 million each year and letter of credit accommodations. they have to Replace Current 40% 50% 10.8 55% 58% 3.5 62% 52% - sweaters are also a According to the filing, the pricing and lending formulas used change dramati- staple,”says Moore to determine availability under the refinanced facility will be cally from season to season.” from Ambiance. more favorable to J. Crew Operating and its subsidiaries than “It’s about cultivating a sense of style that is “Definitely comfortable, soft sweaters,” states those in the existing facility. Meanwhile, Wednesday’s news fol- uniquely yours,” considers Randi Lane, founder of Chai, the designer. “A great dress is always lows, as previously reported, a $275 million senior subordinat- ed loan agreement between J. Crew Operating and Black Catwalk Productions, a fashion show production important, too.” But she stresses that there is one Canyon Capital LLC and Canyon Capital Advisors LLC, accord- company based in the South. “Women know which item paramount to the female shopper – cotton T- ing to a prior SEC filing. items work for them and it’s reassuring to have those shirts, which are both basic and fashionable. “She keeps items in multiples in their wardrobes.” buying them because there are always new styles, ● LOEWS GRABS REST OF BULOVA: Bulova Corp. said Loews Lisa Moore, head buyer for Ambiance, a string of colors, finishes and feels. She could add one to her Corp. will purchase the remaining 149,998 shares of Bulova that boutiques in Northern California, sees a considerable wardrobe every month and never get tired of them.” it doesn’t yet own at a price of $35 a share, payable in cash. Bulova became a subsidiary of Loews in 1979, according to number of women asking for items that they Fashion experts agree that today’s consumer is an Bulova’s general counsel, Warren Neitzel. Since then, Loews has consider wardrobe necessities. “They want basics educated one. “Women see fashion as it happens increased its stake of Bulova’s publicly traded shares to 97 per- that last a long time,” she relates. “Women expect to today,” continues Chai. “She’s able to see runway cent. Loews is acquiring the remaining Bulova shares in what is open their closets and find these things day in, day shows on the Internet and view collections as an known as a short-form merger, the term for the process during out, and that’s especially true for higher priced items. editor does. With an eight-month lead time to get which the parent company merges with a subsidiary in which They want a large selection when spending more those fashions into stores, she is already comfortable the parent owns more than a 90 percent stake, with the parent as with those styles.” the surviving corporation. The procedure doesn’t require either than $150 for trousers, and they want trendier the vote of Bulova’s board or its shareholders. The transaction is things at a great price.” This is certainly one case where familiarity expected to be completed early next year. Following the merger, “Fashion is changing so fast right now,” Chai, the breeds comfort! Bulova will cease to be a public company and will no longer be designer, relates. “Women are looking for ways to This story is one in a series of articles based on findings required to file regulatory statements with the Securities and take what they know and like and make it look just a from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Exchange Commission. little bit different.” tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, ● These musings may likely explain why women of each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the REEBOK CONVERSION: Reebok International Ltd. completed an offer to exchange 2 percent convertible debentures that were The Greatest Generation, ages 59-70 were the only American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes offered in April for new 2 percent convertible debentures due in group to indicate a growing interest in seeking out and behavior regarding clothing, 2024. According to the company, about 84.8 percent, or an esti- items that were new and different. While the appearance, fashion, fiber selection and mated $296.8 million of the old securities, were tendered by majority, at 52%, still claim that their typical new many other timely, relevant subjects. holders of the old securities. About $53.2 million of the old secu- rities remain outstanding. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Importer Association Armani Takes It Up a Notch By Alessandra Ilari tremely special dresses in my ready-to-wear Sues U.S. Government collections. It therefore seems a natural pro- MILAN — Giorgio Armani has officially elevat- gression to expand this point of view into the By Kristi Ellis dustries. They can be imposed for ed his fashion style to new heights. Giorgio Armani Atelier collection and bring it one year at a time through 2008, Confirming a WWD report on Wednesday, to Paris, ” he said in a statement. WASHINGTON — The battle over when the provision expires. the Italian designer said he will stage an off- Armani added that the collection was con- curbing Chinese imports reached Nations have the option of ne- calendar show for 300 special guests, including ceived for a certain type of client who demands a new level Wednesday when the gotiating with China to determine VIP clients, on Jan. 24 during Paris Couture an item of unique quality, produced according U.S. Association of Importers of a mutually acceptable limit on Week. The location has yet to be revealed. to the standards of haute couture but with the Textiles & Apparel sued five gov- imports of certain items, or, if A small portion of the 50 styles that will be accessibility, ease and modernity that charac- ernment agencies to stop further China fails to agree, the import- shipped to Paris appeared in the finale of terizes Giorgio Armani’s philosophy of fashion. review of China safeguard peti- ing nation can cap China’s ship- Armani’s signature spring-summer 2005 run- The final price tags are still in the works. tions based on the threat of mar- ments at a level of 6 percent for way show in Milan in October, but the majority A company spokesman confirmed that the ket disruption. wool and 7.5 percent for other will be new designs. fashion company is currently strengthening its The USA-ITA suit, filed in the products higher than they had Set on carving a niche for his name in the in-house infrastructure, where Armani’s seam- U.S. Court of International Trade been the previous year. world of couture, Armani said the new project stresses will handcraft the clothes. in Manhattan, seeks an injunc- A coalition of textile, apparel is a natural evolution of the superelaborate After Paris, the Giorgio Armani Atelier col- tion to block the Committee for and fiber trade associations and eveningwear for which he is known. “Each sea- lection will be presented in other major cities, the Implementation of Textile the industry’s main labor union son, I have presented a small number of ex- including New York, London and Hong Kong. Agreements from considering have filed a total of 12 China safe- seven safeguard petitions it ac- guard petitions — including one Two of the cepted for review and put the reapplication on Wednesday for Atelier looks brakes on new petitions. The bras — with CITA in the last Armani showed group is seeking to halt CITA three months, targeting some $1.9 in Milan. from accepting threat-based peti- billion in imports from China for tions or those involving products further quota restraints. CITA co- under quota without publishing incidentally accepted for review new rules, interpretations and/or an eighth threat-based petition policies. CITA wants to invalidate covering certain synthetic fila- the government’s current rules ment fabric imports from China allowing threat-based petitions. on Wednesday and is set to make Unless the court stops this unfair process,“ USA-ITA members will be forced to make irreversible decisions and take irreversible actions, at incalculable cost. — Laura Jones, USA-ITA” CITA, a federal interagency a final determination on whether group, is accepting requests based to impose quotas on the products, on “anecdotal bits and pieces of ranging from cotton trousers to information,” in violation of im- cotton and man-made fiber shirts, porters’ due process rights under in early February. the Administrative Procedures The heart of the matter is Act, USA-ITA said in a statement. whether CITA’s existing safe-

“Unless the court stops this guard procedures allow for the MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY unfair process, USA-ITA mem- filing of threat-based petitions. bers will be forced to make irre- Importers and retailers argue versible decisions and take irre- they don’t, but the government versible actions, at incalculable has said they do. cost, to reduce their exposure to Cass Johnson, president of the the risk of an embargo created by National Council of Textile Fed: Luxe Leading Spending the imposition of highly restric- Organizations, a member of the tive, illegal safeguard measures coalition supporting the peti- By Joanna Ramey year,” the Kansas City Fed reported. “Sales of and to ensure that they have mer- tions, said, “Those guidelines luxury items, such as jewelry and designer chandise to sell,” Laura Jones, were vetted through the Congress WASHINGTON — Consumer spending across clothing, were reported as especially strong at executive director of the USA- and through the interagency the U.S., including apparel, is uneven as luxu- several stores.” ITA, said in the statement. process two years ago. For them ry revenue grows and discounters lag the high In Minneapolis, a major retailer “reported The government has 10 days to now to suddenly say these proce- end, according to a Federal Reserve report. same-store sales up 6 percent in October com- respond to the complaint. dures aren’t valid, as we’re deal- The Fed’s Beige Book survey, an anecdotal pared with a year ago, while a Minnesota- “The language negotiated in ing with the China safeguard pe- snapshot of economic activity for October based women’s apparel chain said October China’s WTO Accession Agreement titions, smacks of a desperate at- through mid-November that was released on same-store sales were up 7 percent compared is clear that a petitioner may file a tempt to derail the process. I Wednesday, said the nation’s overall economy with last year.” A mall manager in the region request for safeguard action based think what USA-ITA is worried is growing though the retailing outlook for hol- “expects a 4 to 5 percent increase in holiday on market disruption or threat of about is these are strong cases iday spending was cautious. The findings were sales’’ over 2003. The National Retail market disruption,’’ a Commerce and the facts are on our side.” based on interviews with business officials Federation has pegged holiday sales to gain Department spokeswoman said in Auggie Tantillo, executive direc- conducted by the Fed’s 12 regional banks. 4.5 percent against last year. a statement. “The procedures CITA tor of the American Manufacturing Sales for the six-week period covered in In the Cleveland region, “some contacts uses in deciding whether to consid- Trade Action Coalition, another the report point to growth in luxury goods had expected sales to strengthen following er a safeguard request do not pre- coalition member, noted in a state- sales, including designer apparel, the Fed the presidential election, but sales through clude threat petitions. The govern- ment that China’s import market said. However, discount stores in at least three the first half of November don’t appear ap- ment has ample authority under share in the U.S. in the apparel regions reported restraint among consumers. preciably better than before,” the Fed said. U.S. law to take the safeguard ac- categories released from quota in “Retailers in the Dallas, Kansas City and “Accordingly, firms are cautious in their fore- tions requested by the petitioners.” 2002 has jumped to 72 percent New York districts reported that demand for casts for the upcoming holiday selling season, CITA, chaired by the Commerce from 9 percent. premium merchandise has been noticeably anticipating, at most, only slightly better sales Department and also consisting of “The policy question facing us stronger than that for lower-priced lines, with than at this time a year ago.” senior officials from the State, is not whether China will cripple some contacts suggesting that lower-income Merchants in the Dallas region said they Labor and Treasury Departments, the U.S. textile and clothing in- households might have been more greatly af- were looking forward to the scheduled Jan. 1 and the Office of the U.S. Trade dustry through the use of unfair fected by high energy prices,” the Fed said. elimination of global apparel and textile quo- Representative, is responsible for trade practices, but whether the In a separate study, the Commerce Depart- tas and the expected wholesale price declines considering the China textile safe- U.S. government is willing to pre- ment said overall U.S. consumer spending in- of 13 to 18 percent. Despite the savings, mer- guard petitions and implementing vent that crippling damage from creased 0.7 percent in October, which in- chants told the Fed they “do not expect to re- U.S. textile trade policy. happening,” Tantillo said. cludes a 1.5 percent gain in sales for non- duce selling prices. They say lower costs will At the center of the debate is Mark Levinson, chief econo- durable goods such as apparel, footwear and translate into more normal profits.” the safeguard mechanism China mist at coalition member UNITE food. In September, consumer spending Also on Wednesday, the Business Roundtable agreed to when it joined the World HERE, said CITA didn’t make gained 0.6 percent. reported executives expect the U.S. economy to ex- Trade Organization in 2001. The the rule, but is implementing it The Beige Book showed that consumer pand by 3.5 percent next year, down from the antic- safeguards are essentially tempo- based on China’s accession spending in Minneapolis, Philadelphia, ipated growth of 4 percent this year. The round- rary quotas that an importing na- agreement. Levinson said USA- Kansas City and San Francisco was strong. table is a group of 150 executives from companies tion may impose on certain ITA is “trying to find a backhand “Most store and mall managers reported including Sears, Sara Lee Corp. and DuPont. The Chinese goods if it determines they way to undermine the agreement solid year-over-year sales gains and almost no executives cited rising health care costs as the are severely injuring domestic in- and stop the petitions.” stores reported declines compared with last “greatest cost pressure to corporate America.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM On the cutting edge of Los Angeles’ contemporary art scene, two startling new productions take on the classics.

PROJECTING TRISTAN Scenes from, and preparing for, the new To the uninitiated, the cumbrous titles of opera production “The Tristan Project.” Wagner’s operas — consider “Götterdämmerung,” with its pimply umlauts — evoke hours of sitting in the dark, listening to fat people caterwaul about love and death. While the Los Angeles Philharmonic’s new production of “Tristan und Isolde” still has illicit love in the first act and premature death in the third, it also boasts a new title, “The Tristan Project,” which conveys some sense of its 21st-century crackle. The production is a collaboration between artist Bill Viola, director Peter Sellars and L.A. Philharmonic conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen. All three live in Southern California, but the work was originally commissioned by Paris’ Bastille Opera. “When we had the Paris team together,” recalls Salonen in the curtained gloom of his office at Disney Hall, “I realized this was a Los Angeles team. As it’s our team, we should do it here.” The work of the three collaborators has the distinct flavor of Europe’s adventurous — and well-financed — arts programming. Viola’s contribution, perhaps the most strikingly new aspect of the performance, is a three-hour video work shown on a 36-by-20-foot screen above the orchestra. The images of fire and water don’t exactly illustrate the action of the opera, but rather parallel it. “I have no desire to make the eye® ‘Fantasia’ thing,” says Viola in his superhigh-tech editing studio. “It irks me to see image and sound in lockstep. I am a set designer in that I’m creating as visual backdrop, which links me to the painted forest of the 19th century. But at the same time, the images are moving, which is what music does. There are actually two performances going on here.” If it sounds like a lot to watch — or a highbrow sound-and-light show — Salonen notes that “Tristan” allows the audience ample time to take in Viola’s work. “This is one opera where absolutely nothing happens in terms of physical theater,” the conductor says. “There is space for painting the psychological landscape. There is space for visual art. If you are in the middle of a very busy Verdi opera — when there is fighting, intriguing, hopping into beds and escaping from prisons — the action doesn’t call for additional visual interpretation.” The L.A. performances of “The Tristan Project” are being billed as “partially staged concert performances.” Even so, the singers will sometimes be in motion, as former enfant terrible director Sellars (he once set “The Marriage of Figaro” in Trump Tower) has them roam throughout the Frank Gehry-designed concert hall. Salonen, who just marked his 20th anniversary with the L.A. Philharmonic, also gives an unexpected didactic spin to the project. A single performance of the opera will stretch over three nights, one act per dating thedating Classics night, with the second half of each concert dedicated to composers influenced by Wagner. The conductor speaks of giving “context” to Wagner’s “seminal” masterpiece. With tickets costing up to $375 for the three performances, “The Tristan Project” demands commitment from its audience, but is nearly sold out at every level. The fully staged performances will go to Paris in April (three acts a night, without Salonen’s musical “context”), and there are discussions to take the project to other venues, including New York. “We call it ‘The Tristan Project’ so it can be a lighter concert version or a full bells-and-whistles performance,” explains Salonen. “We’re not going to stop in Paris.” — Kevin West Up

ONE MAN MACBETH While the idea of a one-man show may suggest comic revues such The problem with seeing the film after reading the book, as any as John Leguizamo’s “Spicorama” or Lily Tomlin’s “Search for Signs water-cooler critic knows, is that the actors on-screen never look as of Intelligent Life in the Universe,” Dillane strove to create less you imagined them in your mind. antic characterizations. Fans of Shakespeare have long noted that the problem with “I’m not changing hats,” says the actor, who wears a dark suit and watching the Bard’s plays — as opposed to reading them — is the an open shirt for the entire show. “But sometimes I feel the same, only more so. No single performance could hope to portray audience needs some kind of differentiation. The process is to the endless and often contradictory complexities of the great distill that down to the minimum.” Shakespearean tragic heroes. So, without the accustomed sumptuary cues and architectural “For me, reading ‘Macbeth’ was always the high point,” says settings, Dillane defines character and place with his voice and English stage and screen actor Stephen Dillane (“The Hours”), who posture. Lady Macbeth, for example, tends to creep along the walls is starring in a radical new staging of the play at Redcat, the Roy and while she blurts out bits of French. Dillane delivers her most Edna Disney/CalArts Theater at Disney Hall in downtown Los famous lines, “unsex me” and “out, damn spot,” in that language. Angeles. “Then something always seemed to fall away in the actual Macbeth’s physical presence is the one fixed point to which performances I saw.” Dillane returns, like an ubercharacter from which the others Dillane says he had turned down the role — despite playing emerge. Preston points out that the medieval church believed the Hamlet on stage in London and Horatio on-screen opposite Mel devil could change shape, and suggests that Dillane’s Gibson — because he considered it “impossible.” Then Travis Stephen transformations evoke a similar kind of supernatural fear. In his Preston, the director of the Center for New Theater at CalArts, Dillane in innovative staging, the entire play seems to issue from a single proposed a radical alternative. “Macbeth.” corrupt mind, like the voices in a psychopath’s head. Their collaborative result is a one-man “Macbeth,” with Dillane “Something about the performance is dangerous, horrific and performing every role — Thane and Lady, King and Weird Sisters alike. During the terrifying in a way that it is not with 20 actors on the stage,” says Preston. 110-minute performance, Dillane struts and frets alone upon the Brechtian stage, On the afternoon of the interview, Dillane, who lives in London, has the weary accompanied only by three musicians and their somber instruments. look of a man on an epic journey, but he admits that he and Preston still haven’t “We were interested in the idea that there is a single consciousness in the work,” reached the outer frontiers of the play. explains Dillane, sitting with Preston during a break from rehearsals, “one that “It’s a truism to say that Shakespeare is limitless,” says Dillane. “I’m still in wonder.” doesn’t necessarily get any better by splitting it up into separate characters.” — K.W. TRISTAN PHOTOS BY KIRA PEROV; “MACBETH” BY SCOTT GROLLER “MACBETH” BY PEROV; KIRA PHOTOS BY TRISTAN Wild, Wild West PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE AND DONATO SARDELLA AND DONATO TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY California In Depth Section II: January 26 Close: January 7

WWD editors highlight what drives the California market. Get a first look at the trends that are as fickle as the Santa Anas — the booming board culture, Rodeo Drive hot spots, and up-and-coming retail centers.

Get your brand in the section that focuses exclusively on the country’s largest manufacturing and retailing center.

For more information, contact Deborah Levy, senior account executive, West Coast, at 323-951-1803, Katherine Nelson, West Coast account manager, at 323-951-1805, Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 6 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004

All Fired Up With oil-splattered jeans PARIS — “The look has an exciting, rebellious attitude that fits with the thrill and and elbow pads galore, danger aspects associated with the sport,” motocross chic is revving says Susan Hopgood, marketing director for the Italian jeans brand Gas, which sponsors up Europe’s denim and the Honda racing team. “The look is sexy and sportswear scene. tough — not for the faint-hearted.” And how. Le Temps des Cerises, a fledgling French denim label, features battery-acid and pock-marked jeans for that just-slid-out- from-under-the-chassis look. “It has nothing to do with the ‘clean’ Von Dutch look at all,” notes Cerises’ Lilian Richardiere. “It’s about a Nineties-inspired, rock-metal-meets-Harley-Davidson aesthetic that goes with the vintage spirit that’s been around for a while.” Riding the biker trend, British sportswear firm Firetrap created a new Black Seal collection featuring badge-festooned jean jackets, denim overalls and oil-waxed jeans with customized tears and repairs. “People want jeans that look like they’ve been around forever,” says Carlos Singh, Firetrap’s marketing director. “And the motocross vibe that’s shone through over the past six months lends itself totally to that.” — Katya Foreman

Miss Sixty’s cotton denim jacket and biker pants; Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton tank top. What That Walk shoes. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 G-Star’s nylon jacket; Gas’ 7 cotton denim capri pants; WWW.WWD.COM Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton tank top. Vans sneakers. URENT FOLCHER

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PARIS — When the lights went out at the Palais Omnisport in “I want to be the first girl in France to prove that I can Bercy, Paris’ equivalent of Madison Square Garden, all eyes make motocross my profession,” she says, noting she was were on the white-and-blue Yamaha motocross bike that given her first Yamaha as a Christmas gift when she was came roaring into the stadium. three years old. Girl Wonder It zoomed up a dirt ramp into Lancelot juggles studies for a mathematics diploma, one Livia Lancelot, France’s first female midair, landing gracefully on the of France’s most demanding high school courses, and professional motocross champion. other side. training on her bike five hours a day. She stole third place in “Did you see that?” shouted one a division of the Women’s Motocross Association Steel City spectator as the bike came to a Race held in Pennsylvania last year, and she also outranks screeching halt. many of the boys in her age group in France. “Ladies and gentlemen, please With girls like Lancelot helping to increase the popularity of welcome the kingpin of Bercy’s the sport, activewear companies have been falling over motocross competition,” the themselves to cash in on the sport’s fashion appeal. Oxbow, one announcer declared as the biker of France’s leading activewear labels, was lured by Lancelot’s pulled off a jet-black helmet, feminine physique, and dresses her on and off her bike. revealing long locks of golden hair. “You can stay feminine despite the masculine aspects of “I love the element of surprise. No the sport,” she says. And Lancelot is already a role model for one can believe that girls can do this many young French girls interested in male-dominated sort of thing,” the gravity-defying rider, sports. “I just tell them you have to be courageous,” she Livia Lancelot, confesses later. At 17, says. “It’s just like going for the jump. If you fear falling, you Lancelot is France’s sole professional probably will.” female motocross champion. — Emilie Marsh PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM La Rinascente Attracts Many Potential Bidders By Luisa Zargani

MILAN — With its prestigious real estate and name — La Rinascente SpA is one of Italy’s best-known properties and in- vestment funds — entrepreneurs and property companies are lining up to buy the group after its owner, Eurofind, put it on the block last month. Eurofind, which has tapped Lazard as an adviser, is a joint venture between Ifil, an investment company controlled by the Agnelli family, and French retailer Auchan. “The group is no longer strategic for the owners,” said one analyst here. “Ifil is looking to raise cash to invest into its automaking business, Fiat.” Sources here say the suitors include Simon Property Group Inc. and the investment fund The Carlyle Group of the U.S.; equi- ty fund Bain Capital; Villa Moda owner Majed Al Sabah; Dubai Investment Co.; real estate company Aedes, which last year cre- ated a real estate spin-off with Prada; property company Beni Stabili, which acquired part of Prada’s real estate space earlier this year, and Pirelli Real Estate together with Deutsche Bank. None of the potential bidders could be reached for comment on Wednesday. But a bid from Simon Property Group would make sense since at the end of 2003, the Indianapolis-based company formed a joint venture with La Rinascente Group to own, manage and develop shopping malls in Italy. That deal, said the Rinascente spokesman, is limited to the food division. Last September, Eurofind split the Rinascente Group into two divisions — La Rinascente SpA and Societa Italiana Distribuzione Moderna, which comprises the food division and was sold to Auchan. The sale, according to the Rinascente spokesman, should be completed by the first half of 2005. La Rinascente SpA includes real estate properties; the midtier Rinascente department stores, which also carry designer diffusion Full-Price Selling Drives Neiman’s lines, and the Upim mass market business. Sources here estimate that the group is valued at between 600 million and 800 million Continued from page one who will shop with us primarily for that special euros, or $780 million and $1 billion at current exchange rates. of $56.2 million, or $1.16, a year ago. gift,” as Neiman’s will remain committed to offer- There are 18 Rinascente stores and 148 Upim stores in Italy. Excluding the loss from the catalogue sale, prof- ing differentiated merchandise. In 2003, La Rinascente stores reported sales of 310 million its would have risen 30.6 percent to $73.4 million, or “We chose not to be promotional over the euros, or $403 million. The Upim stores registered sales of 573 $1.49. On that basis, analysts were expecting earn- Thanksgiving weekend,” Tansky added, noting that million euros, or $744.9 million, last year. “La Rinascente is the ings of $1.45. the company hopes to benefit from the extra two only department store of this level in Italy; it is number one, al- Total revenues rose 10.9 percent to $907.9 mil- days between Thanksgiving and Christmas this year. though its structure is not homogeneous,” said Armando lion. Comparable-store sales rose 11.4 percent, also The company will be well equipped to handle Branchini, a luxury goods consultant here. excluding results from the catalogue. Neiman’s inventory, as well, during the holidays, Tansky said, The Rinascente stores, for example, range from a highly pres- said this was its fifth consecutive quarter of double- thanks to a new program that will put merchandise tigious space in Milan, just off the city’s main cathedral, to digit comp-store sales gains. Comps at Neiman in a central area, helping to improve inventory Rome’s Via del Corso space to locations in other cities that are Marcus stores were up 10.6 percent. turns. The company will thus be better able to “fill not as prominent, according to Branchini. “It is a highly desirable By division, specialty stores, which include holes” quickly, which is expected to add to cus- group, as it also offers something for all, since Upim includes Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus stores, had tomer satisfaction. hundreds of points of sale at a more mass market level,” he said. sales of $737 million, up 10.8 Already Neiman’s had an The first La Rinascente store opened in Milan in 1917, but, percent from $665 million last 8.4 percent rise in November with a different name. It is well known that Giorgio Armani was year, while sales in the direct same-store sales. But Tansky a window-dresser for the store in Milan before he launched his marketing unit were $140 mil- reiterated that the company namesake brand, and that La Rinascente helped jump-start the lion, up 9.4 percent. In the will mirror strong same-store Missoni label, when, in 1958, Ottavio and Rosita Missoni pro- “other” unit, made up of the sales in fiscal 2005 and that duced their first striped shirtdress for the store. Kate Spade and Laura Mercier comps are anticipated to rise 8 brands, sales were $31 million, to 10 percent in the second an increase of 19.2 percent quarter, against a 12.7 percent from a year ago. rise in the year-earlier quarter. President and chief execu- Store expansion plans Calif. Worker Coverage Measure tive officer Burt Tansky said on remain essentially the same for a post-earnings conference call the company, with a few timeta- with investors and analysts that bles shifted backward. Plans Loss Stands After Ballot Mix-Up customers continue to respond include openings in fall 2005 in to luxury and fashion. Sales Boca Raton, Fla., and San LOS ANGELES — Faulty ballot information from one county tem- highlights in all divisions includ- Antonio; Austin, Tex., and porarily cast doubt on the Nov. 2 defeat of a statewide proposition ed women’s handbags, contem- Charlotte, N.C., in fall 2006, and in California that would have mandated health insurance coverage. porary women’s sportswear, Natick, Mass. in spring 2007. But Proposition 72, which would have imposed the require- denim, women’s shoes, apparel The company still expects total ment on employers with 50 or more workers, is dead, said a and accessories, such as pon- square footage to increase 2 to spokeswoman for California Secretary of State Kevin Shelley. chos and fur-trimmed items. At 3 percent over time. The fate of the measure was uncertain Tuesday night after Neiman Marcus Direct, sales The company announced Shelley’s Web site showed it was suddenly ahead based on fig- were especially strong in jewel- Tuesday that it plans to open a ures from 17 counties that finished counting absentee and pro- ry, accessories and women’s two-level, 120,000-square-foot visional ballots. Those results — posted for four hours — were apparel and shoes. anchor store in the San the result of incorrect numbers provided by San Diego County. “Our outstanding perform- Fernando Valley’s Westfield The final tally showed that Proposition 72 got 49.1 percent of Burt Tansky ance is a result of our long- Shoppingtown Topanga in the ballots, losing by 202,854 votes. term strategy of focusing on 2008. Neiman’s has four other “That’s final, but it won’t be official till we produce the state- full-price selling, aggressive management of our stores in California. ment of vote on Dec. 11,” said Caren Daniels-Meade, a spokes- expenses and inventory, coupled with strong mer- Several remodels are also under way, including woman for Shelley. “But we’re confident that the results will re- chandise and innovative marketing,” Tansky said an addition of 50,000 square feet to a store in San main the same.” on the call. Francisco and the addition of 30,000 square feet to The proposition was a referendum on the Health Insurance Tansky noted that the company reached a sales- a store in Newport Beach, Calif., which is nearly Act of 2003 (SB2) passed by the legislature and former Gov. Gray per-square-foot milestone of $541 in the last 12 complete. Davis. The California Labor Federation and the California months, while operating margins reached an all- At Bergdorf Goodman, renovations are on sched- Medical Association were among the supporters of the meas- time record of 13.8 percent, up 200 basis points ule, Tansky said, with the fifth floor set to undergo ren- ure, which sought to extend health insurance to 1 million unin- from the first quarter last year. ovations this year and the fourth floor ready for a sured Californians. Inventory was up 6 percent in the quarter, which spring 2006 start in the contemporary sportswear area. The measure would have cost employers $12.4 billion to Tansky attributed in part to the company’s 25 per- Lastly, the company plans to add two Kate Spade $12.9 billion a year, according to a study by the Employment cent increase in distribution center capacity to stores in the current second quarter, bringing the Policies Institute in Washington. The study’s author, Aaron 600,000 square feet. total to 22. Ye lowitz, an associate professor of labor and health economics Tansky said the company is well positioned for “As a company, we continue to focus on produc- at the University of Kentucky, also argued that it would lead to the holidays with the right merchandise assort- ing strong operating results while pursuing our the loss of 67,000 to 150,000 jobs, as employers sought greater ments and a full calendar of events, including per- long-term strategy of outstanding customer service, efficiency from employees. sonal appearances by designers in stores. He said quality merchandise and fashion leadership,” — Nola Sarkisian-Miller the company hopes to “reconnect with customers Tansky concluded in a written statement. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 9 Denim Dish Jack Star’s Broad Array Designer Angie Furlong has returned to her indigo roots and has launched a denim line called Jack Meltin’ Pot Star Jeans. uses denim A former designer for Guess, Esprit and Lucky from Italy, Brand Dungarees, Furlong shied away from the com- Turkey and plications of denim when she began casual contem- Spain. porary sportswear label Blue Dot six years ago. But the one-time avid bike rider, a hobby that helped fuel her denim interest, said the time was right to enter the booming business, one that’s underserved for the 35-plus woman. “I wanted to create something that was a little more sophisticated, with a range of rises that can appeal to a broader range of women,” she said. Jack Star offers stretch and rigid denim in six washes, touched with grinding, paint splatters and tints. Named after U.S. cities, the washes include the Los Angeles, a worn coloration, and the Newport Beach, a whiter, seaside look. But what’s gotten the attention of a number of retailers is the range of rises — the 6.5-inch, the 7- inch, the 8-inch and the 9-inch — and the fits. There’s the Kelly, a denim style with a 6.5-inch rise and a 20-inch flared leg. The Angie offers a long, lean silhouette with a 9-inch rise cut thin in the thigh. Other popular styles are the Gabrielle, a flat-front trouser jean creased on the legs with slash pockets, and the Mimi, a fit with an 8-inch rise tapered with leg zippers for boot-tucking. So far, about 80 retailers have picked up the line, which debuted for wholesaling in September, including Upstairs in Los Angeles, The Bar in San Francisco, Cowboy Sweet in Tucson, Ariz., and E. Street Denim in Highland Park, Ill. “We were really impressed with the vari- ety in terms of rises and choices of denim Jack Star’s styles are named after cities across the United States. washes,” said Jennie Magee, a sales rep for The Bar. “You could pick things that weren’t too low or too high, which appeals to both younger and older customers.” The line wholesales from $66 to $84 and ships Jan. 15. Furlong said she expects to add a men’s collection by fall and possibly a mix of sweaters and leather by the end of next year. She anticipates first-year sales of $1.5 million for Jack Star, which is named for her son, Jack. But, she’s not looking for stratospheric growth for the line, which is made in Los Angeles. “We could probably be making more money, but it’s about lifestyle and balance,” said Furlong, America’s Meltin’ Pot who said she wants to devote enough time to motherhood. There’s also the fact that she hopes Meltin’ Pot is making its way to the country that in- to ride her custom 1992 Harley-Davidson again spired its name. sometime soon. For 10 years, the Italian premium denim collec- It’s also about keeping the creativity humming tion, owned by Romano SpA, was only available in along, one reason she doesn’t plan to work for Europe. After a soft launch last month in the U.S., another company again. the company is moving forward to a nationwide roll- “I’d fight it tooth and nail,” she declared. “I out in June. appreciate the freedom of the creative process now. “The idea was to initially launch in 15 to 20 of the I can do that color pink, I can use that color thread best stores in the United States,” said Vince and not worry about design presentations and the Gonzales, chief operating officer of Meltin’ Pot. “We input from so many others.” had such a strong response that we now realize there Bridal Blues — Nola Sarkisian-Miller is room in the American market for another premi- um denim line.” French fashion designer Olivier Lapidus has taken Currently the collection is available in stores such the old wedding-day adage — something blue — to a as Atrium in New York, Lisa Kline and H. Lorenzo in new extreme. Los Angeles, Lulu in Miami and Riccardi in Boston. He’s created a bridal gown with a denim bustier- By June, Gonzales predicts Meltin’ Pot will be avail- style top and back pockets that are just like jeans. Hub Outlet Goes National able in more than 200 specialty boutiques. It’s one of the novelty looks he dreamed up for One firm’s excess is another’s opportunity. Meltin’ Pot focuses on basic five-pocket jeans using French bridal house Pronuptia that’s launching for a Hub Holding Corp., the Ontario, Calif.-based opera- cotton denim from Spain, Italy and Turkey. The women’s couture line in January during couture week in tor of the Anchor Blue specialty chain, last week collection features more than 95 styles in a number of Paris. The “Yara” gown, merging silk faille and worn acquired Designs Inc., operator of Levi’s and Dockers washes and finishes, wholesaling for $50 to $88. denim, is named after his stylist wife. outlet stores east of the Mississippi River, from Casual “We’re really targeting the person who wears “The reaction has been huge,” Lapidus said, refer- Male Retail Group for about $12.8 million in cash. jeans everyday,” Gonzales said. ring to the fashion editors who have been shooting The deal consolidates all Levi’s and Dockers U.S. In its first year in the U.S., he predicts the whole- the unorthodox look. “Now I am order- outlet stores within one firm and ends speculation that sale volume to reach $3.2 million to $3.5 million. ing jeans by the hundreds, only to take dates back to Hub’s acquisition by Sun Capital The photographer, publisher and film director them apart again for this dress.” Partners late last year. Designs operates 32 Levi’s and Rankin was named creative art director for Meltin’ Pronuptia, which produces Dockers outlets in 18 states, while Hub, through its Pot and Milan-based architect Fabio Novembre is the about 40,000 gowns a year, is bet- Most division, operates 52 such outlets in the West. industrial design director. He will be responsible for ting the denim gown will help ex- After scaling back its outlet retailing activities over designing the U.S. headquarters and showroom in tend the appeal of its brand. a two-year period in order to focus on its dominant Big New York. The 16-look Pronuptia Couture & Tall business, Casual Male said two weeks ago that it “Art, fashion and architecture are key points to collection ranges in price from had found a buyer for Designs, but didn’t disclose its the company’s philosophy,” Gonzales said. “These 2,500 to 5,000 euros, or $3,328 to name. Casual Male disclosed the buyer in a statement are all areas that a young person is interested in and $6,656 at current exchange rates, at last week. our denim lifestyle plays into all of those categories.” retail. First shipments are expected In addition to what now will be an 84-unit Levi’s out- Moreover, Gonzales believes Meltin’ Pot provides in January. let operation, Hub operates 172 Anchor Blue specialty a high level of service to its retailers. Pronuptia’s owner, Swiss entre- stores, mostly on the West Coast, featuring sportswear “Reorders are shipped in 72 hours, so stores have preneur Jean-Paul Gaillard, who and accessories for young men and women. less commitment up front,” he said. “That’s unheard also owns the Marlboro Classics Michael Bush, president and chief executive officer of for European companies. We look at our salespeo- brand, said the line is a first step of Hub, said, “The businesses obviously fit together, ple as partners.” toward a presence in the U.S. and we really feel we’ve worked out all the kinks and As for where the name was derived, Gonzales market. Sales for the company cracked the code of how to make money in the outlet said, “When the brand started 10 years ago in in 2004 will be about 75 million business.” Europe, it was the beginning of what was happening euros, or $99.8 million, he He noted that the Most outlet business has had in the urban market in the U.S. Ironically, we’re said. Its principal markets same-store sales increases for the past 20 months. nothing like that today, but if you say the words are France, the U.K., Italy “We’ll probably bring a lot of the same ideas and ‘Melting pot’ in Europe, you think of America.” and Japan. thinking to the eastern stores,” he said. — Lauren DeCarlo Pronuptia’s denim bride. — Tina Isaac — Arnold J. 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NEW YORK — When it comes to fashion, country singer Goodman. A self-proclaimed “jeans addict,” Rimes cited LeAnn Rimes has a West Coast sensibility. Citizens of Humanity, True Religion and Juicy Couture “When I lived in Los Angeles, I was into vintage Ts as some of her favorites. “And I just love Rebecca and that laid-back kind of vibe,” said Rimes, 22, at The Taylor,” the singer added. “She’s one of my favorite Boathouse in Central Park last week, where she was pro- designers.” moting her Christmas album, “What a Wonderful World.” Although she’s a native Mississippian, Rimes is a Her favorite Los Angeles boutiques include Lisa Nashville girl at heart. And she wants to set the record Kline and Ron Herman, but when she’s in New York, she straight about her current hometown: country doesn’t always makes a stop at Barneys New York and Bergdorf equate to cowgirl.

“Everyone perceives the style in Nashville to be cow- PEGGY FOLEY/FOLEY COMMUNICATIONS PHOTO BY girl, but it’s really not,” she said. “It’s growing and it’s J.C. Penney will donate the net profits from the sale of Rimes’ LeAnn Rimes really funky and starting to catch up to the styles you’d Christmas album to fund after-school programs. see in Atlanta.” Rimes has teamed up with J.C. Penney to support year, she walked away with a Grammy Award for Best after-school programs across the country through the Female Country Vocal Performance and the Best New sale of her Christmas album, the net profits from which Artist award — a feat never before achieved by a coun- will fund after-school programs of the YMCA of the USA, try musician. Rimes has so far sold more than 27 million Boys and Girls Clubs of America, 4-H and Junior albums worldwide. Achievement. The album, which went on sale last month, “What a Wonderful World” is her first Christmas is available at most Penney’s nationwide and retails for album, though. $13.99. Penney’s expects to sell roughly 300,000 copies. “Even though fans have been asking for this for years, Penney’s and J.C. Penney Afterschool have contributed I really had to wait for my voice to mature,” she said. more than $41 million to support after-school initiatives “I’m reminded of that when I revisit songs I did when I since 2001. was 13 years old.” Rimes, who married dancer Dean Sheremet in 2002, Rimes kicked off a holiday tour this week in New was especially moved by the cause. “I’m at the age now Jersey that wraps up in late December, when she’ll begin where I think about starting a family, so this is very taping episodes for the third season of “Nashville Star,” important to me,” she said. She had the opportunity the USA Network’s national talent search for the next recently to spend time with some children who will ben- great country music star. efit from the additional funds to their programs. “It’s kind of like ‘American Idol,’ but its basis is in “I got to see kids just being kids,” she said. “It’s nice country music and Nashville,” she said. “The great thing for me to see what I missed out on. I kind of leapt ahead about this show is it really sets itself apart from what’s of everyone else. Sometimes I think, ‘Why did I want to out there already. It’s really musical. The singers all grow up so fast?’” write their own songs and have a live band playing with By the age of 13, Rimes had a number one single on them. That’s really what Nashville is about.”

PHOTO BY MIKE GUASTELLA/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY the Billboard country charts with “Blue.” That same — Lauren DeCarlo A Triple Scoop Lim’s Breaking Development NEW YORK — Scoop boutiques are taking over Washington Street here. NEW YORK — Phillip Lim has left the Los Angeles-based company Development A new Scoop offering just women’s appar- to move to New York and launch his own label, 3.1. el opened this week at 861 Washington “As a designer, you just can’t help but face the fact that you have to come out Street, next door to the famed saloon Hogs & here,” Lim said from his office in New York’s Garment District — “The 10018,” Heifers. The existing Scoop, at 873 the Orange County native offered. “Maybe I could have started this new label Washington Street, will now carry just men’s in Los Angeles, but something innately just pushed me this way.” Lim’s wear. Come spring, 875 Washington Street showroom is here in SoHo. will be home to Scoop Kids Starting Young, Lim, 31, began his career as a design assistant at Katayone Adeli and the first Scoop boutique devoted exclusively launched his first collection with Development in 2000. He chalks his to children’s wear. departure from Development up to what he calls “a difference of vision.” “We’re going to make up 60 percent of the “It became a tug of war,” he said. “A constant struggle back and forth block,” said Stefani Greenfield, co-owner of between me and my former partners at Development.” the Scoop boutiques. So, with a new coast comes a new clothing line, which is slated to The store at 861 Washington Street is 3,300 debut during New York’s Fashion Week in fall 2005. square feet and is constructed in typical “It is a very personal collection that is a reflection of where I am Scoop style. personally and professionally,” said Lim. “I’m taking it back to what I “All of our stores are loft-like with polished feel is very natural.” cement floors and stainless steel — a sleek Lim said 3.1 will feature natural colors and sophisticated pieces New York look without being cold, ” Greenfield such as suits, blouses, and knits, targeting the urban professional said. “It’s all about the merchandise for us. It’s woman who’s on a search to discover herself. This collection, Lim like walking into the ultimate closet.” thinks, picks up where the more carefree, California-influenced The Meatpacking District ranks on retail- Development left off. ers’ most-wanted real estate lists, but “3.1 is a bit more sophisticated and refined than Development,” Greenfield said she has her partner, Uzi he said. “I’m taking the Development client on the next adven- Ben-Abraham, to thank for scoring the desir- ture.” The collection wholesales between $58 and $448 and will be able piece of real estate, home to shops like produced in New York and Hong Kong. Accessories for the collec- Stella McCartney, Jeffrey New York, and tion will be produced in Italy. Alexander McQueen. The collection is financially backed by his business partner, “Uzi is a real estate guru,” she said. “He was Wen Zhou, also 31. Lim predicts 3.1’s wholesale volume will into the Meatpacking District for a long time. reach $5 million in its first year. He has an unbelievable nose for real estate.” “I feel that clothes now are just so outspoken and loud,” he said. This isn’t the first time Greenfield has “I want to make a more polished dialogue. For instance, I’m doing a almost taken over a city block. On the Upper black trench, but adding touches that feel deep, like Old-World stitch- East Side, Scoop occupies 6,000 square feet ing. Every time you wear it, you’ll discover something.” The collection between 73rd and 74th Streets on Third will feature a number of pieces that are handmade and and hand-finished. Avenue with connecting women’s and men’s “I want to add a lot of touches that you really don’t see nowadays in the boutiques. The properties on Washington mass market,” he said. Street will occupy about the same square Lim, humbly, admits to a few jitters. footage, but will not connect. Greenfield “With this collection, I’m literally starting at ground zero,” he said. “Naturally, said her company’s average sales per square in this industry and being human, you feel pressure, and I’m sure people are foot are “$1,500 plus.” The shop’s retail prices waiting to see if it’s bad or wonder if I’ll make it out here,” he said. range from $28 to $2,000. But he’s optimistic. After all, stores like Fred Segal, Traffic and Greenfield opened women’s and men’s Barneys New York have bought his pieces — sight unseen. Scoop shops in Las Vegas last month and Sketches from The collection, obviously, is named 3.1 to reflect his and Zhou’s age. plans to open a store in Chicago this spring. Phillip Lim’s new “It’s the age where I’ve shed my skin,” said Lim. “Same formula, different location,” she said. label, 3.1. — L.D. — L.D. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM Active Lifestyle Sport Hits the Streets PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY The North Face has expanded its Manhattan showroom. Next Phase for North Face By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — While increasing its European opera- tions, The North Face is breaking ground with a dra- matically expanded showroom here, a wider selec- tion of sportswear and more merchandise for women. The outdoor equipment and apparel firm, with an- nual sales of about $300 million, is a success story in the fashion and retail arena. Less than five years ago, the company faced bankruptcy amid slumping sales, heavy debt, accounting restatements and late distribution dif- ficulties before it was bought by VF Corp. in 2000. Now, the San Leandro, Calif.-based firm has hit on a formula of product innovation that, with strong back-end support from VF, has led to robust sales growth and profitability. “We have found success as a lifestyle company that is rooted in technical performance,” Steve An inside view of Paris’ first Columbia Sportswear shop. Rendle, president of The North Face, Americas, said in an interview. He spoke amid the sounds of drilling and hammering as the finishing touches were put on By Emilie Marsh According to a recent report by French tracking firm the firm’s renovated showroom at 873 Broadway. Arcane Institut and DLD Consultant, the outdoor, win- “Our goal is low double-digit sales growth and profits PARIS — Once selling only at the foot of Europe’s high- ter sports and surfwear markets racked up $7.92 billion that grow faster than sales.” est peaks, outdoor apparel brands in Europe are taking in sales in Europe last year. Outdoor brands accounted The North Face is one of the few brands that has their sporty message to the city streets. for 2.9 billion euros, or $3.76 billion at current ex- achieved crossover appeal between serious outdoor Spurred by a growing interest in casual apparel on the change, which is 47 percent of the market, followed by enthusiasts and inner-city teenagers. As a testament Continent, Portland, Ore.-based Columbia Sportswear last winter sports and surfwear, which reached 1.6 billion to its wide-ranging popularity, the brand is sold at month opened in Paris its first boutique in a European euros, or $2.07 billion, and 1.48 billion euros, or $1.9 bil- department stores such as Bloomingdale’s and out- capital, and has plans for another in London in lion, in sales respectively. door stores such as EMS and REI, as well as urban December. Despite the fashion-finicky market in Europe, “Outdoor apparel targets a wider clientele as op- chains including Dr. Jay’s. the company chose tony Rue Saint-André des Arts in the posed to surfwear, which focuses solely on a 15 to 25 age After selling to many department store chains in Saint-Germain area for its first urban location. bracket,” noted Columbia’s Boyle. the late Nineties, the company now only sells to select “Europeans are going toward a more casual look,” According to the Arcane Institut and DLD report, for Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom locations, and said Gert Boyle, the brand’s founder and president, who every three outdoor apparel items purchased in plans call for department opened the Paris store with a local business partner. Europe, two were not purchased exclusively for athletic stores never to account for “The reaction to Columbia has been better in France endeavors. It noted that brands including Columbia, more than 10 percent of than anywhere else in Europe.” The North Face, Patagonia, Rossignol, Helly Hansen sales, Rendle said. North The Saint-Germain shop brings Columbia’s store and Salomon were among the most popular. Face is sold in 1,800 doors count in France to five, but at 3,122 square feet, it is by “Outdoor brands were quick to observe that the re- in the U.S., and also has a far the brand’s largest, stretching over two floors and of- maining market to develop was the urban market,” said growing international fering lifestyle and sports Dominique Demoinet- business. There are also apparel and accessories Hoste of DLD Consultant, eight company-owned for women and men. which specializes in stores in the U.S. Last year, Columbia’s European sportswear. Founded in 1966 as an A look from TNF’s A5 series. sales in France, which “Technical aspects have equipment supplier for represents 35 percent of been perfected [so] now climbers, The North Face now produces and distrib- its European activity, major labels are focusing utes a wide range of products for women, men and reached $44 million, up 11 on fashion details to ex- children, including sportswear and outerwear, percent from the previous pand their customer base,” footwear, backpacks and handbags, tents, hats and eye- year. In Europe, Colum- she added, noting that wear. All of it is made in-house apart from eyewear, bia’s 2003 sales zoomed Rossignol’s recent collabo- which is licensed to Italy’s Marcolin Group. up 20.6 percent to reach rations with Jean-Charles Seeking to build its sportswear business, the com- $123 million. de Castelbajac and Emilio pany last year started A5, a lifestyle-oriented cotton “Europe is more de- Pucci were emblematic of line that includes cargo pants, halter tops and tank manding in terms of such efforts. tops in bright colors. Outerwear remains its largest trends,” said Boyle, who Meanwhile, European category, generating about half of overall sales. added that Columbia’s outdoor apparel labels Women have become more of a focus for the com- lifestyle line was perform- also are gaining consider- pany in the last few years, Rendle said. While many ing particularly well on The North Face store in Amsterdam. able ground on city streets. offerings were unisex, there is now a large selection the Continent. The French action-sports label of outerwear and sportswear for women with smaller women’s spring collection includes fitted T-shirts, light- Oxbow will open its first fully owned store in Lyon this silhouettes and significantly more color, including weight pants, jackets and even skirts. “Columbia pro- month and the brand, known mostly for its outdoor ap- pink, lime and pastel blue. vides a slightly more fitted look for the European mar- parel, plans to open 15 stores in France’s largest cities “For the first time, we sold more women’s outer- ket,” Boyle noted. over the next three years. Oxbow sales in 2003 were wear this year than men’s,” Rendle said. Columbia is not alone in its active quest to conquer $91.6 million, up 10 percent from the same period a Reflecting the company’s growth, the renovated European capitals. year earlier. showroom has tripled in size. It has muted colors and Last year, California-based The North Face opened “The development of Oxbow’s boutiques in France’s brick walls with photos of The North Face-sponsored its first European outlet in London’s Covent Garden, fol- largest cities will increase brand access, control the athletes rock climbing and running. Located across lowed closely by a store opening in the ski resort of product offer and create true retail laboratories that Broadway from Paragon Sports — Manhattan’s mecca Livigno, Italy, in December of last year. In May, it will inform and fine-tune the brand,” said Frank for sports and outdoor gear — the showroom has an opened a boutique in Amsterdam. Heissat, the Mérignac, France-based brand’s marketing area devoted exclusively to footwear as well as two The company, a division of VF Corp., reported a 49 director. “Fashion and sportswear are clearly merging. large apparel showrooms, an accessories area and a percent increase in European sales to $98.5 million last European society now accepts wearing sportswear in a private meeting space with a high-definition television year, while the number of The North Face doors in professional and urban environment,” he added. where teleconferences can be held with other offices. Europe increased by 17 percent. The North Face brand Demoinet-Hoste of DLD Consultant agreed. “The ris- “The showroom is a global showcase for the com- registered 42 percent growth in France and the U.K., ing popularity of outdoor apparel is not a fleeting fash- pany,” Rendle said. “It is a way for us to show our followed by Scandinavia with a 30 percent increase ion trend,” she said. “It’s reflective of a change in products in our special environment.” over 2002 and Italy with sales up 22 percent. lifestyle in Europe.” 14 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM The global synthetic fibers market in 2004 has seen continued growth driven by Chinese expansion and the strength of polyester. Demand for TheWWDList polyester is expected to grow 7 percent this year, following similar growth in 2003. All other synthetic fibers together reported less than 0.5 percent growth. Polyester now accounts for 40 percent of the global fiber market, with cotton at 36 percent. Despite the demand, overcapacity at Synthetic Fiber Producers the fiber level, particularly in polyester filament, stemming from Chinese capacity growth has resulted in low operating rates. This problem will be The top global synthetic fiber producers in 2004, ranked by capacity in tons. aggravated in 2005 when India expands its capacity.

INVISTA Total: 1.5 million tons Invista, a unit of Koch International, manufactures and markets premium fibers, resins and intermediates. The company has a 1 presence in every major market and garment region worldwide. Its brands and trademarks are among the best known and include Lycra, Teflon, Supplex and Tactel.

FORMOSA PLASTICS CORP. Total: 1.4 million tons Formosa Plastics is Taiwan’s top petrochemical company and one of the world’s largest producers of polyvinyl chloride, with annual 2 revenues approaching $2 billion. Formosa Plastics produces acrylic fiber and yarn and acrylic acid, among other things.

RELIANCE INDUSTRIES Total: 1.1 million tons Dhirubhai Ambani, the Indian founder of the $13 billion conglomerate Reliance Industries, died in March after suffering a massive 3 stroke. Ambani, who set up petrochemical plants to manufacture synthetic fibers, ventured into oil and gas exploration and built refineries. The company is now run by his two sons, who are building a national fiber-optic network.

TUNTEX Total: 910,000 tons Tuntex, based in Bangkok, manufactures polyester fiber for nonwovens and yarn-manufacturing applications. The company also makes 4 polyester chips and various filament yarns for weaving and knitting. Included in the total output are separate operations in Taiwan and China as there is some common ownership or control.

SINOPEC CORP. Total: 760,000 tons China Petroleum & Chemical Corp. (Sinopec Corp.) is the country’s largest producer and marketer of oil products, such as gasoline, 5 and a top supplier of major petrochemical products, such as synthetic fiber and synthetic rubber. Sinopec’s output does not include its Yizheng facility, which is quoted separately below.

YIZHENG CHEMICAL FIBER CO. LTD. Total: 745,000 tons Yizheng Chemical Fiber Co., a unit of Sinopec Corp., is located near Nanjing, China. It said it is the nation’s largest producer of 6 chemical fiber and chemical material.

HUALON CORP. Total: 715,000 tons Synthetic fiber became an important industry for Malaysia in the early Nineties. Hualon’s synthetic textile plant became operational in 7 1995 and contributed to the country’s textile output that year. Hualon Corp. is owned by Hualon Corp. of Taiwan.

FAR EASTERN TEXTILE LTD. Total: 710,000 tons The company was founded in Shanghai in 1942 as Far Eastern Knitting Factory Co. Ltd. to produce Skyscraper brand underwear. In 8 2002 FETL invested in Far Eastern Polychem Industries Ltd. FETL formed a joint venture with DuPont USA, which acquired DuPont’s polyester plant in Suzhou on mainland China and transformed it into a plant for industrial fibers.

TEIJIN Total: 665,000 tons Formed in 1918, Teijin, based in Osaka, Japan, makes polyester, spandex and nylon, along with textiles and pharmaceutical products. 9 Its best-known brand of polyester, Tetoron, was first manufactured in 1958. A more recent product introduction is Morphotex, a nanotechnology-based structurally colored fiber used in fashion.

HUVIS CORP. Total: 660,000 tons Huvis Corp., based in Seoul, is a leading polyester producer. It’s Jeonju and Ulsan factories have developed new products and added 10 a direct-spinning facility. Huvis has a deal with Invista to license and distribute brands such as Tactel and CoolMax exclusively in South Korea.

SOURCE: PCI FIBRES, SPARTANBURG, S.C., THEPCIGROUP.COM/FIBRES, A CONSULTANCY MONITORING GLOBAL MARKETS FOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS, THEIR RAW MATERIALS, RELATED PLASTICS AND ASSOCIATED MARKETS SUCH AS THOSE FOR NATURAL FIBERS Introducing: C WJewelryOnline.com ee iaoaPnyPeil enti/osLouisGlick Reinstein/Ross Penny Preville Helen Ficalora P nyPeil uhnTml t li BethOrduna Temple St.Clair Gurhan enny Preville P mlaoBt ruaBryKoe HelenFicalora BarryKronen BethOrduna omellato ONNECT•BROWSE•SHOP

Jewelry THE WEIGHT OFDESIRE $3,000 inHolidayJewels Log-on andentertowin 16 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Fashion Scoops Sisley’s Latest Upscale Entry

UP WITH PEOPLE: Things are clicking into Poppy Montgomery, who all had come NEW YORK — Brace yourself for the next centrate completely on its inside work,” place over at Time Inc. Two weeks ago, outfitted to pay homage to the more than $300-plus day cream. said Isabelle d’Ornano. WWD reported that People managing editor 50-year-old design house. Mandy Moore Having based its entire portfolio on prod- Formulated to be used in conjunction Martha Nelson had taken on a slightly larger wore a vintage Missoni dress, and Mena ucts that push the price envelope, Sisley is with other skin care items, All Day All Year role within the company and was now Suvari chose a piece from the fall banking on the notion that its core cus- is the perfect complement to Sisley’s ultra- overseeing Teen People, as well. Then on collection. Even Quincy Jones had earned tomers won’t suffer sticker shock when they pricy Sisleya antiaging range. In addition to Wednesday, an internal company memo his stripes, so to speak, and came clad in encounter new All Day All Year Essential the smash-hit flagship cream, the Sisleya outlined two promotions at the weekly. On Missoni. But the real honor of the night Day Care this February. If lineup now also includes Nelson’s recommendation, Larry Hackett has belonged to Lois Aldren, wife of the former they’re smart, said Sisley an Elixir, a dry skin formu- been named People’s deputy managing astronaut Buzz, who arrived with her executives, they’ll work la and a superluxe hand editor. Hackett, previously executive editor, husband in a veritable Missoni medley of a the $330 lightweight day BEAUTY BEAT cream. said the title bump doesn’t signal any skirt, tunic and scarf. “Buzz had never been cream into their skin care “Sisleya is like super- significant changes in his responsibilities. to Neiman Marcus before tonight,” said regimens virtually immediately. fuel for your car — it brings to the skin the “It’ll be pretty much the same,” he said. Aldren, adding that the pair had, however, “We recommend incorporating All Day best nutriments,” said Philippe d’Ornano. “I’ll be sitting in for Martha when she’s gone to Italy about six years as guests of the All Year into your routine as soon as your “Sisleya-Elixir is the maintenance of the away.” A People spokeswoman confirmed Missonis. “They made him a sweater with budget allows it,” said Sisley general man- engine — it should be used three or four Hackett had subbed for Nelson when she moons on it.” ager Philippe d’Ornano. “Yes, it’s quite ex- times a year as a tune-up. And All Day All was traveling this fall. Meanwhile, assistant pensive. But as soon as you can afford it, Year is the shield surrounding the car that managing editor Peter Castro was promoted HAMMER TIME: Ines de la Fressange is you should use it.” protects it. Using Sisleya with All Day All to executive editor, filling Hackett’s vacated selling the family jewels. The former Chanel Year over it would create the maximum ef- spot on the masthead. model and designer, now director and Isabelle and fect. You’d have the nutriments and you’d communications coordinator of the Roger Philippe have the shield.” COMING UP TRUMPS: Donald Trump unveiled Vivier shoe company, will auction the vast d’Ornano Although the d’Ornanos would not dis- an interesting philosophy of fragrance at majority of her jewelry collection on Dec. cuss figures, industry sources predict a Macy’s Herald Square Wednesday night: 14 at Sotheby’s in Paris. “I don’t like the first-year retail sales volume of $3 million “Any man who wears this fragrance can idea of accumulating too much,” said de la for the new cream. have any woman — or man — that you Fressange, adding that most of the pieces, With a target audience for All Day All want; it’s your choice!” the charismatic including important vintage pieces by Year of “everyone from 20 to 80,” Sisley is businessman told an overflow crowd. Boucheron, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, clearly looking to hook just about anyone Trump’s fragrance hit its first retail were passed to her by her grandmother. who steps into the outside world on a regu- accounts — about 450 Macy’s, “She was very sophisticated,” quipped de lar basis. “If you put someone in a cave for Bloomingdale’s and Marshall Field’s doors la Fressange. “My tastes are a little more 40 years, he would come out in pretty bad — 10 days ago, with more expected this modest.” shape,” said Philippe d’Ornano. “But he spring. For his part, Estée Lauder Cos. chief wouldn’t have any wrinkles.” William Lauder — Trump’s fragrance partner RUNWAY TAKEOFF: Heidi Klum and gang were His mother, Sisley co-founder Isabelle — Dana Wood — had another view. “Reports are that the at the PM Lounge in the Meatpacking d’Ornano, made her own decidedly mod- scent is doing wonderfully,” he said. “So no District Tuesday celebrating the premier of ern sales pitch for the product. “Even a one will say to me, ‘You’re fired.’” “Project Runway” on the Bravo cable woman of 20 can use this,” she said. “If she BMK Acquires Rita Ann Trump’s suit business also is going great network the following night. can afford a PlayStation, she can afford All NEW YORK — BMK, a Dallas-based dis- guns, said Macy’s fashion consultant Klum hosts the program, in which 12 Day All Year. It’s a real investment.” tributor of general merchandise products, Richard Pulkoski, who sold 23 Trump suits up-and-coming designers compete for the Steeped in plant extracts, essential oils has expanded further into the cosmetics in a day and a half, sight unseen: “That’s opportunity to show a collection in Bryant and 15 active ingredients, All Day All Year arena with the acquisition of Rita Ann never happened before in my 12 years Park in February. “Our designers, they’re was designed to halt aging wrought by ele- Distributors. here,” he said. “They heard ‘Trump,’ and just all geniuses and it was really hard ments such as UV light, pollution, stress, BMK, which distributes 30 categories to said, ‘Put it on the MasterCard.’” Too bad letting them go one by one,” said Klum. air conditioning and fluctuations in tem- supermarkets and drugstores, acquired The Donald promotes Visa. Michael Kors, who was one of the show’s perature. According to Sisley’s research, the Baltimore-based distribution company judges, said, “It’s a great group of designers only 30 percent of aging is intrinsic, or ge- from AmerisourceBergen Corp. for a com- STARS AND STRIPES: It was straight to the because they’re so diverse. It’s kind of like netic. The remaining 70 percent is, theoret- bination of cash and debt. Terms of the business of shopping for Angela and a mini Seventh on Sixth.” ically, controllable. Helping on that front deal were not disclosed. Margherita Missoni when they arrived in L.A. In Kors’ estimate, the judges were very are the three levels of protection offered by Rita Ann’s distribution categories, this week for the first U.S. retrospective of honest but not mean, or at least not meaner All Day All Year: an anti-UV shield, which which span from cosmetics to hosiery, will their work, held at Neiman Marcus Beverly than what the designers will have to face in blocks up to 90 percent of all UVA and UVB broaden BMK’s current product assort- Hills on Tuesday night. Mother and the rough and tumble world of fashion. rays; an antifree radical shield culled from ment of housewares, pet supplies, toys and daughter headed to vintage shops such as The designers will need more than polyphenols derived from apple skin ex- other consumer goods, according to BMK. the Paper Bag Princess in West Hollywood fashion sense to make it, though. Deborah tract, and a phytoceramides complex de- The firm will operate Rita Ann as a stand- and The Way We Wore on La Brea, where Lloyd, who is executive vice president of rived from rice and sesame extracts, said to alone operation for the first 60 to 90 days they bought, among other things, a late- product and design at Banana Republic promote “cell cohesion” and boost the to allow for the integration of systems, buy- Fifties vintage Missoni shirt. “We always try and will appear in one of the episodes, skin’s barrier functions. ing, merchandising and sales. to buy back vintage pieces for the agreed the group was talented, but said the The core premise behind All Day All The acquisition follows a $20 million eq- archives,” said Margherita Missoni, who designers also had to sell themselves. “You Year is to free up the skin to focus on its uity infusion that BMK received earlier this expertly balanced champagne and a plate have to be a business person, as well,” she own unfettered cell regeneration. “The year from its controlling shareholder, Sun of shu mai while greeting several said. philosophy of the product is to do the out- Capital Partners. The cash infusion is in- generations of Missoni-clad guests, L’Oréal Paris, Banana Republic, Cotton side work — the protection from the 70 tended to fund growth and consolidation of including Rita Wilson, Tracee Ellis Ross and Inc. and Elle are all sponsors of the show. percent of the aging factors from the envi- BMK’s distribution operation into a 275,000- ronmental elements — so the skin can con- square-foot warehouse facility in Dallas.

LVMH Outlines China’s Expansion Plans at IHT Bernard Arnault By Vicki Rothrock uniqueness of each market and wait for ship also includes fighting the production the best deals to come. of counterfeit goods. That battle is diffi- HONG KONG — LVMH Moët Hennessy He said the next country that will be- cult, Arnault said, adding that, when you Louis Vuitton has some ambitious plans come a huge luxury market is India, but it fight, you have to be powerful and cau- for China over the next year. will take time. It may take a generation tious because “counterfeiting is in the Its Louis Vuitton brand is expanding just for the Chinese and Indian consumer hands of organized crime.” the size and visibility of its stores here, to reach maturity, he said. “We don’t want Louis Vuitton and Dior each spend said Yves Carcelle, chief executive of to rush. about 15 million euros, or $20 million at Louis Vuitton, including the reopening of “The consequences of China in partic- current exchange, a year to combat coun- the Lee Garden store, which will be ular waking up as a consumer superpow- terfeiting worldwide. In China, the govern- three times larger; the Landmark store er are far-reaching,” he said. ment has made clear it wants to destroy pi- GARETH JONES PHOTO BY will be enlarged in 2005, and in January, Some see the country as a cheap source rates, Arnault said. He insisted piracy also is an issue when it comes to advertis- there will be a watch and jewelry store of labor with mass-production techniques, doesn’t affect profitability nor steal cus- ing. As a result, opening shops may be the opening in the Peninsula Hotel. Louis but there is no long-term benefit in that tomers from luxury brands, but it does best way to introduce an image, lifestyle Vuitton currently has 13 shops in China. because consumers will associate those hurt the image of a brand. and luxury brand to the Chinese con- The group’s Dior stores also will be in- brands as low-cost, mass market and lack- Counterfeiting is a risk to be faced, said sumer, he said. creasing in size, said Dior chief executive ing appeal, according to Arnault. A more Dickson Poon, the group executive chair- Alfred Chan, ceo and managing direc- Sidney Toledano, without providing details. profound option is for China to offer con- man of Dickson Concepts International, tor of Canada’s Ports Design, echoed The plans were revealed at the fourth sumers value products with high quality because China is probably “the sweetest those hurdles and agreed that knowl- annual International Herald Tribune con- and design creativity. However, he be- music” to luxury brand owners. edgeable partners can help guide the ference here, “Luxury 2004: The Lure of lieves the luxury market still will retain its Other hurdles in China include under- way. Following China’s entry into the Asia,” which opened Wednesday. ties to Europe. standing rules and regulations, retail li- WTO, changes include direct foreign Bernard Arnault, LVMH chairman, said “This is not a competition, but a mutu- censing and remittance of sales proceeds, ownership and reduction of duties and in a speech that expansion takes time and ally supportive evolution,” said Arnault. which all can be helped by having a local taxes, but the change “won’t be signifi- patience. The goal is to identify the Part of a mutually supportive relation- partner, Poon said. Access to the press cant,” Chan predicted. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 17

Designer Product Development TECHNICAL DESIGNER Junior Garment Company is seeking a Coordinator Technical Designer. Candidates must Contemporary Women’s Sportswear have at least 2 years experience in at- line seeks experienced individual to tending fit sessions, specing garments ensure product execution from initial 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New and sending fit corrections to overseas concepts until passed to prod’n team. 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 factories. Responsible for following Min 3 yrs exp in product development / All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices garments from sample development pre-production. Must have strong Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 through production. Must be computer follow-up w/ mills / overseas factories literate, detail oriented, and able to for tracking sample ydg / samples. Fax communicate with overseas vendors. resume to 212-594-9633 attn: Helen. 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LIVE/WORK Fax resume to 212-695-7548, Attn KG. Small 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1575 Digital Fabric Printing Large 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1795 Studio seeks Sales Rep to sell digital Production Coordinator Wood floors. Hi ceils. Doorman. Immed. fabric printing services to apparel and Major importer seeks a dedicated 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE home market. Call 212-244-1426 person who must be exp’d in CHINA garment production. Familiar with FASHION FACULTY schedules, trims, fits, samples, strike Private college seeks faculty for off, lab dip comments. Must have good For Space in Garment Center Fashion Program. Ph.D. degree prefer- follow up skills. Computer literate. Co Helmsley-Spear, Inc. red, Master’s degree required, along paid medical benefits. Rockefeller Ctr 212-880-0414 Product Assistant/Shoe Model with significant industry experience. area. Fax resume: 212-397-2202 Knowledge of textiles, product develop- Dynamic Footwear Company in Greenwich, CT is seeking an ment, buying, visual merchandising, Production Import Assist to $50K. Current energetic individual to assist the product development team. merchandise planning and control. exp. in factory liaison from inception to Send resume to: Fashion Search, completion. Quotas, P.O.’s, ticketing, con- Qualified candidates must be shoe size 7B and have general Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road struction of garments, fabrics, excel, word. Showrooms & Lofts computer knowledge. Individual must be self motivated and West Paterson, NJ 07424. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS willing to travel internationally. We offer a comprehensive bene- Senior Customer Fax: 973-278-0080 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail or Email: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 fits package. Opportunities unlimited. Please Fax or Email Fulfillment Equal Opportunity Employment PRODUCT MGR ASST resume to: 203-661-8982 / [email protected] Better handbag co. seeks person with min 3-5 years experience to support all Manager phases of overseas production. Product Art Director of Photography Li & Fung USA seeks an development and sourcing a plus. Daily In-house Art Director of Photography experienced,hands-on man- Fitting Model Needed: communication with factories, coordi- VP GENERAL ½ wanted for creating compelling and ager with strong customer Height 5’9 " nate and follow up. Must be highly MERCHANDISE MANAGER original concepts for ongoing fashion Designer Size 2 or 4 organized and be able to prioritize and photography to be used throughout relationship mgmt, order Bust 33.5" adhere to action calendar. Prominent 100M Apparel Mfr. seeks website and miscellaneous marketing E-mail resume to: [email protected] mgmt/EDI and bus process Waist 25" experienced retail merchant with materials for online women’s boutique. design skills. Must manage Missy/Junior Divisional or General Must be experienced in directing Hip 35.5" PUBLIC RELATIONS photoshoots, working with photogra- inventory, allocation and Full time position (M-F) Great Benefits! Candidate with 1 year or more PR ex- MAKE YOUR MOVE Merchandise Mgr. experience for phers, stylists and hired talent. Email resume to: [email protected] Classy affordable space. distrib. process. Must man- perience. Should have creative writing 1,500-10,000SqFt Must see! top merchandising and key account Responsibilities include: age and execute BOM set-up, skills. Fax resume to (212) 545-0656. Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. management position. Must be •Lead project ideation and conceptual order entry, cust. setup and development for photography based Gerber Patternmaker/Tech Design 212-594-1414 Ext 251 passionate about the retail market cust. EDI transactions using and have long standing relation- on creative and design direction. Est’d. Ladies’ Mfr. seeks individual w/ PUBLIC RELATIONS • Scout and book locations, procure props mid-tier ERP sys. Exp coord knowledge in creating a sloper. Must be DIRECTOR ships and contacts. Relocation not and sets, and book models as needed. with int/ext cust and supply extremely technical. Strong computer Apply online only to : skills, and able to communicate w/over Major contemp. designer seeking a seas- required. Confidentiality Assured. chain partners a must. oned prof. w/ min. 6 yrs. exp. to devel- Fax 732-280-6190 [email protected] seas factories; Ability of executing tech Please include Art Director in subject line. packs, detailed garment construction, op & direct all marketing prog. Respon- [email protected] Must be willing to relocate to Madison, WI. Qualified candidates and production fittings necessary. Min. sibilities incl: adv., promotions, events, 5 years exp. req’d. Fax: 212-358-0031 PR & Trade merch. Candidate will work Assistant Designer fax resume to: closely w/ exec., sales , finance, prod. 646.366.0288 or e-mail to design & development team. EOE. Women’s private label sportswear Head Controller Fax resume w/ cover letter to: company seeks an Asst. in all aspects [email protected] (212) 398-9695 Admin Assistant of design. Creative, detail oriented EOE Garment importer seeks individual for Mens sptwr co seeking admin asst to VP’s. with ability to flat sketch, proficiency accounting, human resources and over- 2 years exp a must in garment center. Good in Photoshop, Illustrator & Excel. seeing operations. Licensing experi- Receptionist/Fit Model comm., fup, computer skills, organized- Please fax resume to: (212) 730-2259 ence a plus. NJ based. Send resume hardworking req. Great enviorment. with salary requirement to: 516-867-0230 Jr. Import Co. seeks exp’d. individual. Pls fax res 212-268-3963 Assistant Tech Designer Designer Fax resume to: 212-331-0796 JOBS JOBS JOBS Women’s Contemporary Sweater Co. has *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men PATTERN/SAMPLES Admin opening for entry level Assistant Tech *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Designer and/or Spec Writer. Responsi- *Designer or Assoc. Jr. C/S Knit Tops Sales/Design Asst EXCITING bilities include: measuring garments, work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 *Entry Level: Production -Sales-Merchandise SQUEEZE JEANS writing fit comments, data entry, and *Production coords - bilingual chinese OPPORTUNITY!!! clerical support. Must have good computer Must be highly organized and have Growing Luxury Advisement/Jewelry *Production:mgrs & coords & assists strong computer skills. Knowledge of skills and be detail oriented. E-mail all *Sales Manager - Mens Outerwear Co. seeks upbeat F/T individual enthu- resumes to: [email protected] Exciting Opportunity!!! Illustrator and Photoshop needed. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, siastic about luxury/high-end market- Available for handbag designer with *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel Excellent benefits. Please e-mail place. Will answer phones, coordinate min of 2+ years exp. Individual must *Quality Control Inspector-Car Required resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS meetings with influential industry lead- Assistant to Designer/ be familiar with Junior market & profi- Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. ers and assist in general office duties. Production Manager cient in Photo/Illust. Hand sketching a Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Must be organized, detail-oriented and Major Sportswear Co. seeks a responsible plus. Salary commensurate with exp. SEWER proficient in Excel. Knowledge of luxury individual with min. 3 years experi- Email resume to [email protected] or fax: 212-268-9861 Order Entry/EDI Person Designer/Couture Company. industry a plus. If you want to be a ence and knowledge in overseas pro- Needed Immediately! Minimum 5 part of our dynamic team, please e- duction. Responsibilities include fol- Must be organized, detail oriented with good PC skills and very good knowledge years experience in better/designer PATTERNS, SAMPLES, mail your resume to the Office Mgr at: lowing up fabric/trimming/samples and market a must. Fax 212-398-7765 PRODUCTIONS [email protected] communicating with designer and fac- of EDI. Please Fax or E-mail resume to tories in China. Bi-Lingual (Chinese/ DESIGNER EDI Coordinator at: 212-594-7234 Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine Jonden, 1411 Bway. 3-5 Yrs exp, knit [email protected] fast work. 212-869-2699. English) a must. Please fax resume to: 212-967-8018 novelty house seeks individual with ADMIN SINCE 1967 import & domestic exp to develop casual Spec Tech/Designer & career lines. Fax: 212-730-1742 OR Freelancer for young contemporary W-I-N-S-T-O-N CAD ARTIST - U4ia E-mail: [email protected] Order Entry Processor PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Textile Service Studio seeks Major Sportswear Co. seeks a responsible company. Experience a must. APPAREL STAFFING exp’d U4ia Artist. Call 212-391-2370 individual with extensive knowledge Fax: 212-594-0220 High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- DESIGN * SALES * MERCH sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 FAX: 212-391-9063 of garment industry and of all aspects ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Designer-Missy-C.N.S Knits & Sweaters of order processing/EDI transactions, (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 Other [email protected] or IT, Database and Windows system. Bi- Design Assistant Fax resume to: (212) 302-1161 Lingual (Chinese/ English) preferred. Seeking freelance design assistant for SPEC TECHNICIAN (We offer a cash sign on bonus Please fax resume to: 212-967-8018 Danskin, Inc. well est. active apparel women’s better/contemporary sports- for job acceptance) wear line. Must be proficient in the fol- co. seeking a self starter & team player ARLINE SIMPSON ASSOC. lowing areas: Micrographx Designer 9, for a junior F/T Spec Tech pos. to develop [email protected] Excel, Specing. Fax resume to: PATTERNMAKER spec packages, measure garments, track 212 810-4141 212-594-9633 Attn: Helen Wanted for Jr./large-size domestic, samples, take fitting notes. 1-3 yrs exp, VP Logistics, NYC $130K DESIGNERS import knit company. Will work out of good communication, follow up, and VP Warehouse/Logistics LA, CA $175K+ DESIGNER NYC Woman’s & Children’s Intimate 1407 Broadway in NYC. Candidate computer skills (MS Word, Excel, Out- Order Processing Mgr, NYC $90K+ Apparel co. seeks designers for 3 must have 5 years experience in look, Illustrator pref) a must. Comp CHINA MANUFACTURING Director of Licensing, NYC $150K+ Assistant Designer positions. 5 yrs CAD experience a must. patternmaking. Salary commensurate $27K to $33K & generous benefits pkg, Hong Kong/Shenzhen China office VP/Director Credit, NYC $100K Import sweater co. seeks design assis- U4ia, Primavision and Kaledo experi- with experience. Please fax resume to growth opportunities. Send resumes to: Many opportunites available. Staff Accountant/Retail NYC $45K tant with sweater tech knowledge. Fol- ence a plus. Comp $50-65K w/ excellent Albert at 718-625-2244 or send resume [email protected] or Fax to [email protected] Controller CPA, NYC $125K low up skills a must. Fax: 212-391-8174. benefits. Fax resume: 212-447-7667 to [email protected] 212-930-9103. EOE/M/F/V 18 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004

TECHNICAL DESIGN West Coast Sales Position ASSOCIATE SWEATER SALES Fast-paced better dress div. of Kellwood Cuddl Duds Co. seeks experienced tech design asso- EXECUTIVE Nationally recognized intimate apparel ciate. Candidate must have knowledge brand seeks to replace retiring sales of garment construction, be able to exe- Major importer of Missy sweat- person. Buying or department store cute garment detail sheets for pricing DIRECTOR OF SALES: AD #100 ers seeks a Sales Executive Newport Beach, CA sales exp required. Prefer Southern with overseas factories, excellent com- We are looking for Designated Sales California resident. All responses will who knows buyers from the be kept confidential. Salary, benefits munication skills (oral and written). Seeking highly qualified individual to direct the efforts of major moderate and better market. Associates and Selling Specialists for Must be able to flat sketch, have an eye department store and specialty store business. Position will Fine Apparel vendors. A candidate and expenses. Fax resume to: for color to approve lab dips, strike offs, Excellent opportunity to join should be a good motivator, a highly 212-447-5219, Attn: Mark Sandler bulk cuts and bulk trims. Ind must hv be responsible to develop sales strategy, plan and monitor a well established company. productive sales associate, creative, working knowledge of Photoshop, Ex- sales/product projections and manage regional Account Fax resume in confidence to: organized and goal oriented. cel, and Web PDP is a plus. Executives. The ideal candidate MUST have a minimum of 5 Please fax your resume: (949) 467-3348 Fax resume to 212-398-5464 212-382-2596 or call (949) 467-3310 EOE. years sales experience; 1 year in management with a back- ground in trend/fashion product. Strong retail math and SALES ASSISTANT knowledge of store plans is required. Contemp. Missy Sweater Co. seeks a sales Technical Designer Qualified candidates, please fax resume, salary history assistant to manage daily office work. TEMPORARY and ad # attn: Brendan (212) 764-6912 Catalog Sales Must be detail oriented and organized. Activewear mfr. seeks temporary (approx. Seeking an exp’d. Missy & Plus Size Sales exp. and computer work a must. 4wks)Technical Designer with extensive Salesperson w/good contacts selling to Fax resume to: (212) 221-1911 exp. in wovens for Private Label accts. catalogs. STRONG REORDER LINE. Strong knowledge of specs, grading, fit- 1&2piecesets sold as units. PART TIME known worldwide for timeless Italian tings and patternmaking. Wal-Mart, Kohl’s, ACCEPTABLE. Please Fax all resumes to: fashion collections, is currently accepting Target exp. necessary. Must be very 516-374-7718 applications for Management & Sales detail oriented, organized with strong for our stores on communication skills. Able to follow-up with overseas offices. Basic computer ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES- MAJOR & SPECIALTY STORES: AD #101 skills a must. Salary commensurate with Sales - Better Madison Avenue exp. Fax resume to: (212) 279-8720 Seeking energetic, sales driven individuals for both our major & specialty store business. Major store requirements include Denim Specialist Contemporary Knitwear & 2-4 years experience with major stores, to include retail Hotline Showroom seeks an Account Rep Leading Knitwear & Sportswear Designer West Broadway, Soho for Joe’s Jeans. 3-5 years experience seeks an outstanding Salesperson with Warehouse math and an understanding of merchandise plans . Specialty w/premium denim req’d. Working rela- 3-5 years experience in better women’s Wearelooking for enthusiastic retail storerequirements include 1-5 years wholesale sales tionships w/better specialty stores a must. contemporary market for its N.Y. Show- professionals with excellent interpersonal Apparel experience with specialty stores. E-mail: [email protected] room. Current following with Neiman’s, skills, superior customer service stand- Warehouse Manager Qualified candidates, please fax resume, salary history Sak’s, and Specialty Stores req’d. Salary, ards, & a highly developed sense of Exp in shipping, receiving, labor and commission & incentives commensurate style. For confidential consideration, inventory. Hands on. Hi vol budget and ad # attn: Brendan (212) 764-6912 w/experience. Please Fax or E-mail all please fax your resume to: 212.879.2135 goods. E. Rutherford, NJ. Sal neg. Fax resumes (with salary requirements) to: or email to [email protected]. We will resume: 212-764-4625 attn Harry L. 415-864-5335 / [email protected] contact only those individuals selected Fresh Opportunity for further consideration. Sales Management Wanted Moderate/ Contemporary Missy Blouses Koos Manufacturing, producer of AG Jeans and Big Star jeans & Sportswear Co. seeks self-motivated salesperson w/ existing relationships w/ Sales Executives Wholesale Director is expanding. We are looking to increase our sales and sales chain & dept. stores. Great Opportunity management teams for our existing brands as well as for for the right individual. Jr./Girls’ Import Co. seeks exp’d. & self Fax resume to: 212-719-2653 motivated Sales People. Specalty Store 3 years minimum exp. in LUXURY some exciting new projects. Sales managers should have mini- Pro needed as well as Dept./Chain Store wholesale. Please submit resume to: mum of 7 years in the premium denim business, sales persons specialist. Fax resume: 212-331-0796 [email protected] a minimum of 5 years in the premium denim market. Posi- tions are based in both our New York and Los Angeles Showrooms. National Sales Mgr Vertical Mfr, launching contemporary If you are looking to be part of one of the strongest families premium denim line, looking for in denim please fax your resume to: national sales manager with a strong specialty store following. 323-567-8340 or email: [email protected] Fax resume to 212-921-9038

Sales - NY & LA Due to rapid growth, Be Bop, a producer of junior and kid’s jeans/bottoms has Nat’l. Account Exec an opening in sales in our NY & LA CAD DESIGN PRO Well est’d. Branded & Private Label Mfr. offices. This candidate should have a Avail for freelance projects Photoshop/ SALES/MERCHANDISING ASSISTANT: AD #102 seeks the perfect candidate (minimum minimum 5 years experience selling Illustrator/ Quark. Stripes, jacquards, Seeking highly motivated individual to support VP with sales 5 years exp.) to fit into our sales team. dept / chain stores. Some travel. Prod- plaids, repeats. Excellent color match- and product planning responsibilities. Minimum 1 year Must be aggressive, motivated, hard- uct development experience a plus. ing, fabric interpretation and sketching working, and have a great personality. Excellent package, 401k and benefits abilities. Presentation boards, mini- wholesale sales experience required. Strong relationships/connections w/buyers for the perfect individual. Please send bodies, recoloration. Screen print, Qualified candidates, please fax resume, salary history in Dept./Specialty Stores req’d. We’re resume and salary requirements to embroidery, hangtag and label design. and ad # attn: Patricia (212) 764-6912 seeking a team player w/strong sales & Fax: (212) 921-9845 or Call or e-mail Linda 732-598-9409, long-term goals. Fax resume: 212-358-0031 E-mail to [email protected] [email protected] West Coast/LA based Sales Rep We are currently looking to enhance our men’s sales team with a well spoken, self-motivated, in-house sales rep for the West Coast/LA. Must have: outstanding or- ganizational and follow-up skills, and exceptional com- munication talents; previous experience with high-end/ contemporary men’s apparel business and men’s specialty stores. Salary commensurate with experience. E-mail resume and salary history to: [email protected] attn: Sales/HR-HD. Please, no phone calls.

SENIOR SALES EXEC Major Urban/Junior brand seeking aggressive Senior Sales Account Exec having well est’d. management level relationships with Dept Stores, Specialty Chains & Mass Markets. Must have effective communication, presentation & merchandising skills. Ability to manage sales force req’d. INCREDIBLE OPPORTUNITY! Fax or E-mail resume to: 212-239-9873 [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM Ann Taylor Loft Wet Seal Loss Widens in Third NEW YORK — Amid work to turn which detailed its quarterly results. percent for the fiscal 2003 year-end around its sagging business, Wet Seal On the call, the retailer said period. The retailer listed cash and Thinks Children Inc. delivered third-quarter results year-over-year average units sold cash equivalents of $22.8 million, that showed declining sales, a wider dropped 7 percent while transac- which compares with $13.5 million NEW YORK — Ann Taylor Loft, the standout division of loss and eroding gross margins. tions fell 20.1 percent. The average in the previously reported period. Ann Taylor Stores Corp., is getting experimental. It’s The Foothill Ranch, Calif.-based units purchased showed a gain of On Nov. 9, the retailer inked a deep into testing children’s wear and will make a deci- specialty retailer posted net sales 26.7 percent, year-over-year. deal led by S.A.C. Capital Associates sion next year on whether to roll out a children’s chain, that declined 15.9 percent in the As a result of softer same-store to provide financing totaling $55.8 according to sources. quarter ended Oct. 30 to $110.8 mil- sales and lower sales volume, the re- million. That same day, the company Sleepwear and swimwear are also test vehicles, but lion from $131.8 million in the tailer’s gross margin as a percent of said chairman and chief executive it is believed that, at this point, children’s wear is the same period last year, while the sales suffered a steep decline, officer Peter Whitford had resigned. only category that could be spun off into a separate re- loss swelled to $24.6 million, or 68 falling to 16.2 percent in the quarter And on Nov. 23, Allan Haims, presi- tail operation. cents a diluted share, from a loss of from 21.9 percent in the prior year. dent of the Wet Seal Stores division, “It’s exciting. It’s got potential,” a source close to the $7.5 million, or 25 cents a share. On the balance sheet, Wet Seal resigned. company said of children’s wear. Same-store sales for the third posted higher inventory levels at the Currently, Wet Seal is in the Loft currently sells girls’ apparel for holiday, including quarter declined 12.6 percent. end of the quarter. As a percent of process of seeking “strategic alter- dresses, coats, sweaters and pants, in about 150 stores. The retailer did not hold a con- quarterly sales, inventories jumped natives” for its business. The retail- Sizes range from newborn to 5T. According to the source, ference call with investors. Instead, to 37.2 percent in the most recent er operates 559 stores in 47 states. the testing will continue next year with fewer stores, the company had a prerecorded call, quarter, which compares with 22 — Arthur Zaczkiewicz roughly 50, but with the addition of boys’ wear. Loft first tested children’s on a smaller scale in holiday 2003. The Loft division of the Ann Taylor Stores Corp. has been a strong performer for the past few years, while the Ann Taylor unit has long been a drag on sales and profits. In the third quarter of the year, sales at Ann Taylor Bloomingdale’s Karlstein to Retire dropped 3.6 percent to $199.6 million, while sales at Ann Taylor Loft surged 37.2 percent to $215.5 million. NEW YORK — Kenneth Karlstein, executive trainee at the former and held top wholesale spots, in- Comps at Ann Taylor dropped 4.2 percent and comps in vice president and general mer- Gertz department store, became a cluding president of Bugle Boy the Loft division increased 9.2 percent, the division’s chandise manager of ready-to-wear juniors’ buyer at Burdines and later juniors, president of Maxima 19th consecutive month of positive same-store sales. for Bloomingdale’s Direct, will re- Bloomingdale’s. He then shifted to Leather and president of Item Kay Krill, who had been the driving force behind the tire on Jan. 30 after 44 years in re- Bonwit Teller as senior vice presi- Limited. He rejoined Blooming- Loft unit, last month was named president of the corpo- tail and wholesale. dent and gmm for ready-to-wear dale’s in 1999. ration. In addition to leading Loft, she will be steering “I worked very intense. Now I and home, working under Kal “I was fortunate to work with the signature division to try to stabilize it. She could not am going to play very intense,” said Ruttenstein, who was president of several leaders of 20th century re- be reached for comment on the children’s program. The the 61-year-old Karlstein, who re- the store at the time and is current- tailing,” Karlstein said, citing Alfred company will end this year with 350 Loft units, 360 Ann ported to Marilyn Carracino, senior ly senior vice president of fashion Daniels, Harold Krensky, Marvin Taylor units and about 36 factory outlets. Next year, 75 vice president of merchandising, direction at Bloomingdale’s. Traub, Mel Jacobs, Michael Gould Lofts, 15 Ann Taylors and 15 outlets are slated to open. Bloomingdale’s Direct. Karlstein was a Gap senior vice and Rose Wells, among others. — David Moin Karlstein started his career as an president and gmm for activewear, — D.M.

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