Indian Institute of Management Shillong

Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis Presents IIM Shillong e-Symposium 2020 Handloom Sector IN THE EMERGENT NORTH-EAST : Strategic and Developmental Imperatives

For participation register Here Prologue

India’s northeast is a fascinating mosaic of employment provider, being only next to the handloom sector also helped fostered diverse ethnic groups with a rich cultural agriculture. Gandhiji was suitably impressed the industrial development of the northeast heritage and exceptionally pristine bio by the handloom tradition of the region states. diversity. Strategically located, the region and commented that the “maidens of lovely has attracted migration over the centuries weave poems on their looms”. The The fact that the region has a congenial and today it is home to people who speak a magic effects of their weaves not only enable climate for the growth and development few hundred languages with each boasting of them in sustaining their families but also of the industry, and is home to their own unique culture and heritage which serves as an important means of livelihood a number of varieties that are unique often finds reflection in their handloom for tens of thousands of individuals at to this region. It includes the golden silk products. The states of Assam, Arunachal various stages of the value chain. Muga given the Geographical Indication Pradesh, Meghalaya, , Mizoram, (GI) status since 2007, the Endi, The handloom sector in the north east is Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim, which which does not require the killing of the silk unique in that almost all families, especially constitute the north eastern region of India, worm to extract its cocoon silk and other in states such as Assam and Manipur each have a tradition of handloom that dates varieties such as Pat, Oak Tassar, and other possess their own handlooms while in the back centuries. Unique yarns, be it , mulberrysilk varieties. Indigenous varieties other states, the use of loin looms or back wool or silk, with motifs and designs that of cotton like Comilla Cotton, wool, and a strap looms are almost universal. Another are representative of cultural identity makes large variety of vegetable dyes certainly add interesting aspect of the handloom sector the handloom produced in the region much considerable depth to this sector. But the in the region is that is not a caste more than a piece of apparel. jewel in the of the handloom sector specific occupation and is universally is the rich variety of traditional designs and All through history, the handloom sector practiced in all homes. This is reflective motifs that the looms of the north east has has played an important role in not only of a tradition whereby women normally been producing for hundreds of years. economic development but also cultural produced all the cloth required for the expression. Interestingly, this sector has the family. In addition to meeting the fabric pride of being the country’s second largest requirement for personal and home use, Handloom Insights on the production of major Handloom items and Fabrics

As per the 4th all India Handloom census 2019-20 the count of handloom units is linked with the choice of which fabric are considered major. The count of major fabrics produced by North eastern States is significant. The production information of such fabric provides an understanding of the specialization in terms of fabrics in different states of North East Region.

Handloom Item Rank in 5 States Share of Overall Remarks Production Saree 4th Assam 7.8% Silk Sarees from Assam & Tripuradominates. Together top 5 5th Tripura 7% States accountfor 78.6% of the handloom saree production in the country. , Mekhla Chadder, 1st Assam 77.4% The single State of Assam accounts for the bulk of the Loi, stole, , muffler 2nd Manipur 4.9% production of shawls (etc.). 3rd Arunachal Pradesh 4.6% The top 5 places are occupied by the North east States together accounting for 93% of total Shawls, Mekhla Chadder etc. 4th Nagaland 3.7% production. 5th Meghalaya 2.3% Angavastram, 1st Assam 42.6% Four north eastern States, led by Assam’s Angavastram (an ,, 2nd Manipur 19.1% integral element in the traditional worship at the Kamakhya temple, account for 78.5% of the production of these major 3rd Tripura 11.1% fabrics. The only other State with a sizeable production is 4th Arunachal Pradesh 5.7% which is a major Angavastram producing State. Towel, napkin, , 1st Assam 72.4% North East States completely dominate theproduction of gamcha 3rd Manipur 4.2% towels, cloth napkins anddusters. Together they account for 81.7% of the productionin the country. 4th Meghalaya 2.9% 5th Tripura 2.2% Major Fabric Rank in Top 5 States Share of Overall Remarks Production material 1st Assam 23.6% The production of dress materials is morewidely spread than (Salwar,kameez, etc.), 2nd Manipur 17.3% most other majorfabrics, even though close to 54% ofthe suiting,shirting, long cloth production continues to come fromthe north eastern States. 3rd Tripura 13.2% Bedsheet, 1st Assam 26.8% Having the largest numberof looms and weavers, Assam furnishings,blankets 3rd Manipur 14.5% again dominates as the largest handloom-basedhome décor production. Allothers, including 1st Assam 27.5% Top 5 States totally account for 74.3% of the all other handloom surgical bandage 3rd Manipur 13.1% fabrics including bandages, with Assam and Manipur alone accounting for 40.6% of the country’s production.

• Source: All India Handloom Census 2019-20 Report The north eastern states have traditionally produced different types • Silk: The region is acknowledged as a rich zone of Seri- of types of yarns and fabrics that attained name and fame all over biodiversity. It constitutes a natural abode for a number the world. Mention may be made of its unique cotton and silk. of sericigenous insects and their host plants. Thefollowing four varieties of silk produced in the Northeastregion contributes • Cotton: Assam Comilla / Bangladeshi are only exported by 15 per cent of the total production of silk in the country leading international brands. Assam Comilla cotton is traded much below the Minimum support price mainly because of absence of a) Muga silk is produced majorly in Assam. The silk is known procurement centres of cotton by Cotton Corporation of India in for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish-golden north-eastern states (CCI, 2015). tintwith a shimmering, glossy texture. It has been given the Geographical Indication (GI) status since 2007. “Bangladeshi Cotton having big balls produced in mixed cropping situations under pesticide free environment in north east dominating “The Central Silk Board of India has the authority to inspect Muga with Meghalaya, Assam, Mizoram and Tripura, in Jhum cultivation.” silk products, certify their authenticity and allow traders to use the GI logo.”

b) Pat Silk or Mulberry silk of Assam is a variety of domestic silk. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in color. Its cloth can dry in shadow. The silk has a natural white tint and is known for its durability and glossy texture. Pat silk, like other Assam , is used in products like mekhelas, and other .

c) is a fine silk that is almost as white in color as the silks. It is grown in the states of Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh. It is spun from the cocoons of domesticated silkworms Eri silk has the look of wool mixed with cotton but the feel and softness of silk. “Eri Silk is a “peace silk” or “ahimsa silk” because the Antherea assamensis silk caterpillars are not destroyed in the cocoon but are allowed to emerge as moths and live a full lifecycle.” d) Oak Tasar culture is practiced in the sub-Himalayan of Indiaextending NorthWest to Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram and Nagaland inthe North- East. In Manipur, its cultivation is practiced in all the districts namely, ImphalEast, Imphal West, Tamenglong, Bishnupur, Churachandpur, Senapati, Chandel, Thoubal and Ukhrul. “At present, the entire state of Manipur is hovering with sericulture activities as thelargest producer of Oak Tasar in India.”

Capitalizing on core strengths

The industrial revolution in the west that has shaped the trajectory of the modern industrial world was started in the handloom sector. Interestingly this very same handloom sector has the potential to initiate an economic revolution in the region. Probably, in a post Covid world, where the economy has taken a beating and workers, who were earning their livelihood in distant places returning home, the pressure on governments to generate revenue and employment is higher than ever before. In this situation, the Handloom sector can be primed up to boost economic growth and generate employment. The Handloom sector in the region, in addition to its long tradition also has both skilled manpower as well as the required potential to meet the raw material requirement. What is needed is the requisite intervention in terms finance, appropriate technology introduction, forward and backward linkages. In addition, what would be required is the creation of brandidentity and market linkages. The discussion would focus on all these aspects and more so as to create the necessary traction to enable the Handloom sector to take off. Conceptual Framework

Inputs Policy Interventions Sustainable Development Outcomes

Environmental aspects • Unique ecology • Design Support • Employment Generation • Culture & Heritage

Socio-cultural aspects • Digital Technologies • Weaving as tradition • Skill Building & Upgradation • Data Driven Strategies • Cultural values. • Unique Local Designing • Marketing • Social inclusion • Driver of Economic Growth • Product Customization • Branding Economic aspects • Enhancing Competitiveness • Specialized labor available • Supply of raw materials • Galvanizing International Trade • Huge demand • Technological Upgrade Relations • Distinct products • Finance and Credit Needs • Patents and GI • Fostering entrepreneurship

From a historical context, the handloom sector in the Indian context norms. One can easily witness the inspiration from nature in the has been widely acknowledged as being resilient and sustainable. designs such as that of snake markings or design of butterfly wing In addition, for generation this sector has provided ample or black and white of human eye or the use of geometrical patterns. employment opportunities. In this regard, the northeastern states The weaving in the NER states thus, completely differs from the of India constitute the highest concentration of handlooms which other states of India. Despite the availability of the skilled labor is very often considered as symbolic of the traditional sector. A huge specialized in handloom weaving; there exists the need to harness number of households are engaged in weaving and the majority the potential of the people of the region for meeting the demands of being women. Quite a large percentage of women have emerged as the customers at regional and global level. entrepreneurs who operate looms in their homes while running it Several interventions need to be adopted by government and as traditional micro-enterprises. Various factors govern the loom organizational policymakers for greater exposure and visibility production such as the number and type of looms including capacity of the rich tradition and skills of the weaving industry in NER at utilization. The socio-cultural aspects of life are greatly influenced various levels. Also, there is a need to further, explore the potential by the tradition of weaving. Interestingly almost all communities opportunities and challenges in the North East Region to explore as well as tribal groups have their unique styles and weaving is the innovative and effective solutions to achieve sustainability goals common thread that seems to bind all these communities together. specifically with reference to the handloom sector. The e-Symposium A unique characteristic of the weaving is that most of the designs Series is conceived as a global platform that brings together and color combinationare a consequence of the evolutionary process. policymakers, scholars, practitioners, institutions, corporates and It’s not just created by the individual weaver but imbibes in itself civil society on one platform. The idea is to create the proper ambience an unique style that is of utmost cultural significance. Different to discuss and deliberate on the current status of the handloom designs and motifs of textiles reflects the inherited rituals and socio- sector and arrive at specific interventions to fill the existing gaps religious life of the ethnic groups of the North-Eastern India. Each through strengthening and capitalizing on the strengths of the rich individual weaver engages in carving and developing a canvas of tradition and heritage of handloom in the north eastern states. designs reflective of creativity while keeping in mind the traditional The Role of IIM Shillong on Development of the North East Region of India

Located in the green contours of North Eastern part of the country, IIM Shillong, which commenced operations in 2008, remains committed to its goal of excellence in management education and research to evolve into a nationally and internationally recognized educational institution. Indian Institutes of Management had been declared as institutes of National importance by the Central Government of India. This brings incredible pride to IIM Shillong along with tremendous responsibility and expectation. Being the only IIM in a region comprising eight states, the responsibility and expectation get compounded exponentially. Normally the mandate of IIMs is to scour for some of the best talent available through a national level selection procedure that is globally considered as one of the toughest. Selected candidates are then groomed, skilled and educated to emerge as responsible leaders with a difference. This exercise is a grueling task that demands allocation of major resources. That IIM Shillong, in addition to this primary function, has added the task of developing the vast and complicated Northeast region of India through the creation of dedicated efforts that speaks volumes about the priorities and principles of this institute. With a commitment towards the development of the region, IIM Shillong started the Centre for the Development of the North Eastern Region (CeDNER) in 2008, the very year the institute was born. The centre is a reflection of the commitment and resolve of the Institute to spearhead a proactive role in the development of the region that is considered beautiful, vast and remote and with a lot of potential for development and growth. IIM Shillong strives to contribute to the inclusive and sustainable development of the north-eastern region and in this pursuit, the institute set up the Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis in 2016.

Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis, IIM Shillong The Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis is envisioned as a proactive embodiment of the philosophy of the late President Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam, of levering knowledge, technology and humanism to achieving Sustainable Development while also ensuring the goals of a just and equitable Social Order. The Centre was the outcome of a tripartite agreement between Indian Institute of Management, Shillong and Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region (MDoNER) and North Eastern Council (NEC) signed on 15th October 2016. The Centre aims to emerge as a state-of-the-art resource Centre to assist the states of North East India to plan their projects adequately, promote innovations and function as a repository of data and best practices in the region and make policy recommendations. Currently, the policy-related work in the development planning of six critical sectors in the North East states is in progress, viz., logistics, tourism, horticulture, handicraft, handloom and business process outsourcing. The Centre covers all the critical areas of development planning, policy formulation, strategizing and analysis. The Centre aims to emerge as a catalyst for development through action research and analysis. It strives to emerge as an innovation and knowledge hub that will help achieve Sustainable Development of the region. This is expected to be achieved with the inculcation of universal human values, an awakening of indigenous sensitivity and celebration of natural as well as cultural diversity. Further, the Centre would network with various institutes throughout the country and North-east and establish an institutional network to make policy recommendations. Session Plan IIM Shillong e-Symposia Series

10:30 am - 12:30 pm, 20th July, 2020

Time Event 10:30 - 10:55 AM Activation of Link for the e-Symposium e-Symposium Initiation 11:00 - 11.02 AM Prof. Sanjeeb Kakoty (Sectoral Coordinator, Dr. APJ Kalam Centre of Policy Research & Analysis, IIM Shillong) Welcome Address 11:03 - 11:10 AM Shri. Shishir Bajoria Chairman, Board of Governors, IIM Shillong Theme Setting: 11:11 - 11:26 AM Shri. Dilip Barooah Founder & MD, Fabric Plus Special Address: 11:27 - 11:42 AM Smt. Jahnabi Phookan National President, FICCI Ladies Organisation(FLO) and Director JTI Group Address by Chief Guest: 11:42- 12:25 PM Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles and Women & Child Development Vote of Thanks 12:25 - 12:30 PM Prof. D.P. Goyal Director, IIM Shillong

Technical Session The Handloom Sector: Energizing the potential catalyst for growth and development Session: 12:35 pm - 02:15 pm, 20th July, 2020

Time Event Introduction of Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis 12:35 – 12:40 PM Prof. Keya Sengupta, Centre Coordinator Speakers: Ms. Renu Abraham, Founder RHHCSL (Renu Handlooms and Handicraft Co-operative Society Ltd.), Manipur Ms. Janessaline Mary Pyngrope, Business Head (Daniel Syiem’s Ethnic House), Meghalaya Ms. Asomee Dutta Baruah, Secretary, Sreemanta Sankar Mission of Guwahati & Head (NE Region) of the 12:40 – 01:55 PM WEP, NITI Aayog Ms. Anuradha Kuli, Founder Naturally Anuradha, Guwahati Prof. Monika Aggarwal, Director -National Institute of Fashion technology, Shillong Session Moderator: Shri. Atul Kulkarni, Management Consultant & Board Member, IIM Shillong

01:55 – 02:10 PM Valedictory Address

Vote of Thanks 02:10 – 02:15 PM Prof. Ridhi Arora, Sectoral Coordinator: Handloom Expected outcome of the IIM Shillong e-Symposia Series

Collating the experience of more than a decade of working on the ground, IIM Shillong is in the process of reflecting back on its journey so far. While highlighting achievements it is also considered imperative to acknowledge the strategic gaps. While the process of such an evaluation is on, the need for planning and process reengineering has come to the fore. This would require a certain amount of disruptive thinking and innovative solutions. While action research would certainly emerge as the prime vehicle, what is also being actively considered is the creation and implementation of models of sustainable development by engaging with the community. The expected outcome of the e-symposia series is to contribute to the knowledge body and publish a series of reports on the Current Status, Challenges, Opportunities and Policy Recommendations for North East India. The e-symposia series is further expected to contribute with the prime inputs on the six critical sectors of the NER that would further assist the Dr APJ Abdul Kalam Centre in spearheading its efforts in policy research and analysis in the key areas of development planning, policy formulation and strategizing. Discussions, deliberations and creative engagements during the e-symposia would help the states of North East India and the implementing agencies getting ideas to further improve on the plan and execution of projects, promoting innovations and implementation in the six critical sectors namely logistics, tourism, horticulture, handicraft, handloom and business process outsourcing. The idea would be to delve into commercial viability of the handloom sector service offerings and find ways for market-based planning, private sector engagement, supportive regulatory contact and necessary supporting resources. The report and summary of the session would be shared with each stakeholder for policy level research by IIM Shillong to reboot sector growth.

Registration for the Participants Symposium Organizing Symposium Committee

For Participation Register Here The event aims to attract all the relevant • Prof. (Dr) Keya Sengupta stakeholders including Representatives Centre Coordinator, Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre of States, Representatives from NEC, Representatives from the Industry, Start- • Prof. Sanjeeb Kakoty Ups, North-East Higher Educational Sectoral Coordinator, Handloom Leaders, Subject Experts on North • Prof. Ridhi Arora East India, Board Members and Faculty Sectoral Coordinator, Handloom Members, Students and Alumni of IIM Shillong. • Dr. Bhaskar Kumar Kakati Centre Manager • Mr. Hitesh Gamit Research Assistant [email protected]

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