INDIAN INSTITUTE OF MANAGEMENT SHILLONG Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Centre for Policy Research and Analysis Presents IIM Shillong e-Symposium 2020 Handloom Sector IN THE EMERGENT NORTH-EAST INDIA : STRATEGIC AND DEVELOPMENTAL IMPERATIVES For participation register Here Prologue India’s northeast is a fascinating mosaic of employment provider, being only next to the handloom sector also helped fostered diverse ethnic groups with a rich cultural agriculture. Gandhiji was suitably impressed the industrial development of the northeast heritage and exceptionally pristine bio by the handloom tradition of the region states. diversity. Strategically located, the region and commented that the “maidens of lovely has attracted migration over the centuries Assam weave poems on their looms”. The The fact that the region has a congenial and today it is home to people who speak a magic effects of their weaves not only enable climate for the growth and development few hundred languages with each boasting of them in sustaining their families but also of the sericulture industry, and is home to their own unique culture and heritage which serves as an important means of livelihood a number of silk varieties that are unique often finds reflection in their handloom for tens of thousands of individuals at to this region. It includes the golden silk products. The states of Assam, Arunachal various stages of the value chain. Muga given the Geographical Indication Pradesh, Meghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram, (GI) status since 2007, the ahimsa silk Endi, The handloom sector in the north east is Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim, which which does not require the killing of the silk unique in that almost all families, especially constitute the north eastern region of India, worm to extract its cocoon silk and other in states such as Assam and Manipur each have a tradition of handloom that dates varieties such as Pat, Oak Tassar, and other possess their own handlooms while in the back centuries. Unique yarns, be it cotton, mulberrysilk varieties. Indigenous varieties other states, the use of loin looms or back wool or silk, with motifs and designs that of cotton like Comilla Cotton, wool, and a strap looms are almost universal. Another are representative of cultural identity makes large variety of vegetable dyes certainly add interesting aspect of the handloom sector the handloom produced in the region much considerable depth to this sector. But the in the region is that weaving is not a caste more than a piece of apparel. jewel in the crown of the handloom sector specific occupation and is universally is the rich variety of traditional designs and All through history, the handloom sector practiced in all homes. This is reflective motifs that the looms of the north east has has played an important role in not only of a tradition whereby women normally been producing for hundreds of years. economic development but also cultural produced all the cloth required for the expression. Interestingly, this sector has the family. In addition to meeting the fabric pride of being the country’s second largest requirement for personal and home use, Handloom Insights on the production of major Handloom items and Fabrics As per the 4th all India Handloom census 2019-20 the count of handloom units is linked with the choice of which fabric are considered major. The count of major fabrics produced by North eastern States is significant. The production information of such fabric provides an understanding of the specialization in terms of fabrics in different states of North East Region. Handloom Item Rank in Top 5 States Share of Overall Remarks Production Saree 4th Assam 7.8% Silk Sarees from Assam & Tripuradominates. Together top 5 5th Tripura 7% States accountfor 78.6% of the handloom saree production in the country. Shawls, Mekhla Chadder, 1st Assam 77.4% The single State of Assam accounts for the bulk of the Loi, stole, scarf, muffler 2nd Manipur 4.9% production of shawls (etc.). 3rd Arunachal Pradesh 4.6% The top 5 places are occupied by the North east States together accounting for 93% of total Shawls, Mekhla Chadder etc. 4th Nagaland 3.7% production. 5th Meghalaya 2.3% Angavastram, 1st Assam 42.6% Four north eastern States, led by Assam’s Angavastram (an dhoti,sarong, lungi 2nd Manipur 19.1% integral element in the traditional worship at the Kamakhya temple, account for 78.5% of the production of these major 3rd Tripura 11.1% fabrics. The only other State with a sizeable production is 4th Arunachal Pradesh 5.7% Tamil Nadu which is a major Angavastram producing State. Towel, napkin, duster, 1st Assam 72.4% North East States completely dominate theproduction of gamcha 3rd Manipur 4.2% towels, cloth napkins anddusters. Together they account for 81.7% of the productionin the country. 4th Meghalaya 2.9% 5th Tripura 2.2% Major Fabric Rank in Top 5 States Share of Overall Remarks Production Dress material 1st Assam 23.6% The production of dress materials is morewidely spread than (Salwar,kameez, etc.), 2nd Manipur 17.3% most other majorfabrics, even though close to 54% ofthe suiting,shirting, long cloth production continues to come fromthe north eastern States. 3rd Tripura 13.2% Bedsheet, 1st Assam 26.8% Having the largest numberof looms and weavers, Assam furnishings,blankets 3rd Manipur 14.5% again dominates as the largest handloom-basedhome décor production. Allothers, including 1st Assam 27.5% Top 5 States totally account for 74.3% of the all other handloom surgical bandage 3rd Manipur 13.1% fabrics including bandages, with Assam and Manipur alone accounting for 40.6% of the country’s production. • Source: All India Handloom Census 2019-20 Report The north eastern states have traditionally produced different types • Silk: The region is acknowledged as a rich zone of Seri- of types of yarns and fabrics that attained name and fame all over biodiversity. It constitutes a natural abode for a number the world. Mention may be made of its unique cotton and silk. of sericigenous insects and their host plants. Thefollowing four varieties of silk produced in the Northeastregion contributes • Cotton: Assam Comilla / Bangladeshi cottons are only exported by 15 per cent of the total production of silk in the country leading international brands. Assam Comilla cotton is traded much below the Minimum support price mainly because of absence of a) Muga silk is produced majorly in Assam. The silk is known procurement centres of cotton by Cotton Corporation of India in for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish-golden north-eastern states (CCI, 2015). tintwith a shimmering, glossy texture. It has been given the Geographical Indication (GI) status since 2007. “Bangladeshi Cotton having big balls produced in mixed cropping situations under pesticide free environment in north east dominating “The Central Silk Board of India has the authority to inspect Muga with Meghalaya, Assam, Mizoram and Tripura, in Jhum cultivation.” silk products, certify their authenticity and allow traders to use the GI logo.” b) Pat Silk or Mulberry silk of Assam is a variety of domestic silk. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in color. Its cloth can dry in shadow. The silk has a natural white tint and is known for its durability and glossy texture. Pat silk, like other Assam silks, is used in products like mekhelas, chadors and other textiles. c) Eri Silk is a fine silk that is almost as white in color as the Bombyx mori silks. It is grown in the states of Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh. It is spun from the cocoons of domesticated silkworms Eri silk has the look of wool mixed with cotton but the feel and softness of silk. “Eri Silk is a “peace silk” or “ahimsa silk” because the Antherea assamensis silk caterpillars are not destroyed in the cocoon but are allowed to emerge as moths and live a full lifecycle.” d) Oak Tasar culture is practiced in the sub-Himalayan belt of Indiaextending NorthWest to Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram and Nagaland inthe North- East. In Manipur, its cultivation is practiced in all the districts namely, ImphalEast, Imphal West, Tamenglong, Bishnupur, Churachandpur, Senapati, Chandel, Thoubal and Ukhrul. “At present, the entire state of Manipur is hovering with sericulture activities as thelargest producer of Oak Tasar in India.” Capitalizing on core strengths The industrial revolution in the west that has shaped the trajectory of the modern industrial world was started in the handloom sector. Interestingly this very same handloom sector has the potential to initiate an economic revolution in the region. Probably, in a post Covid world, where the economy has taken a beating and workers, who were earning their livelihood in distant places returning home, the pressure on governments to generate revenue and employment is higher than ever before. In this situation, the Handloom sector can be primed up to boost economic growth and generate employment. The Handloom sector in the region, in addition to its long tradition also has both skilled manpower as well as the required potential to meet the raw material requirement. What is needed is the requisite intervention in terms finance, appropriate technology introduction, forward and backward linkages. In addition, what would be required is the creation of brandidentity and market linkages. The discussion would focus on all these aspects and more so as to create the necessary traction to enable the Handloom sector to take off. Conceptual Framework Inputs Policy Interventions Sustainable Development