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Spelt Contents APRIL 2019; SPELT CONTENTS FROM THE FIELD It’s Gonna Make It . 02 BOOZE Speltlunking . 04 FOOD WAYS Grünkern . .. 06 TIPS & RECIPES Spelt Training Wheels . .. 09 Cheesy Crackers . 11 Spelt Pasta . 12 Spelt Scones . 13 Cherry Pecan Cookies . 15 FOLKLORE Canción Asturiana . 16 © Lost Bread Co., 2019 FROM THE FIELD FROM THE FIELD It’s Gonna Make It In the late 1990s, Joel Steigman took a dehuller and started selling whole grains In April, the spelt crop at Small Valley is months later than normal. And even road trip from his farm in Halifax, PA to to other organic mills before purchasing bright green, just an inch or so out of the then, many acres of field were still a spelt farm in Ohio. He’d heard from a a mill of their own. ground – they grow winter varieties, water-logged; they only sowed just miller that he could get a higher price for which are planted in the fall and above half their normal acreage. spelt than wheat, so he brought back a The Steigman Family Farm became harvested mid-Summer. “It’s comin up,” tote bag full of seed and gave it a shot. Small Valley Milling -- Steigman, his Steigman says. “It’s gonna make it!” But fear not, spelt fans! We’ll make sure wife Elaine and son Eric grow spelt, to get our hands on a good bit of the “Spelt was making cross-country trips emmer, einkorn, wheat, rye and oats, The spelt seeds were sown late last year, harvest as soon as it’s dehulled late back then,” Steigman said. “You raise it and sell their grains and flour across the the latest they’ve ever been planted at summer -- we’re forecasting triple last here, then it’s going across the country to region. And they’re the largest organic Small Valley. “We have a rotation, see,” year’s usage here at the bakery. get dehulled and back to get milled.” spelt grower in the Mid-Atlantic, Steigman says. “Usually we take the Unlike wheat, spelt is a hulled grain, growing mainly the variety Maverick, corn off and get the spelt in the ground, meaning the grains are enclosed in along with smaller lots of Comet and but the corn wasn’t dry.” Field corn glumes, or husks, that require an extra Sungold spelts. At the bakery, we use needs hot, sunny Indian summer days to step of processing to remove. (The hulls mostly Maverick because we love its soft dry out before harvest; last season was are commonly used in pillows and yoga texture and particularly aromatic notes rainy and humid straight through the cushions, especially in Germany.) Seeing of honey and hay. fall. The Steigmans couldn’t plant the a market opportunity, they bought a used spelt until December 15th, about two 3 BOOZE BOOZE Speltlunking The first beer recipe ever recorded is in Mixing in a pit, the bappir with sweet We talked to Cicerone and owner of Kitchen - opening down the street the form of a hymn to honor Ninkasi, aromatics, … Home Brewed Events, Meredith from the bakery soon - to sign up for the patron goddess of brewing, written Williams to learn how brewers are one of her brewing classes. on a clay tablet by the Sumerians in 1800 You are the one who bakes the bappir in the using spelt these days. She uses it as BCE. The Sumerians had been brewing big oven, an adjunct because of its high protein If you’d rather drink than brew, Tired beer for a couple thousand years already, Puts in order the piles of hulled grains, content. “Protein adds thicker body Hands is your best bet. They’ve always and back then, the brewers were mainly and greater head retention to beer,” got one or two speltful beers on tap. We women. The Hymn to Ninkasi helped You are the one who waters the malt set on says Williams. like their Shambolic, a saison brewed these lady homebrewers remember the the ground, with malted spelt, fermented in an oak steps. The noble dogs keep away even the Until wheat commandeered basically foudre (large cask) and dry hopped with potentates, … every grain, spelt was used in French Simcoe and Nelson hops. The honey, Here’s an excerpt, translated by Sumer and Belgian brewing regions to make grassy notes of spelt and sweet straw scholar Miguel Civil (bappir is twice- So what about those hulled grains? farmhouse ales like saisons. Some malts balance the sharp, herbaceous baked barley bread): Almost certainly spelt, as it was widely brewers still do it the traditional way; hops – it’s like four seasons on a hay cultivated in the region. This beer was Williams developed three saisons and field in a glass. You are the one who handles the dough drunk every day, and homebrewers a hazy NEIPA that use spelt to add rich [and] with a big shovel, traded it for other valuables. body and luxurious foam. Keep your eye on the events calendar at Liberty 5 FOOD WAYS FOOD WAYS Grünkern - green kernel - is spelt that’s before it’s fully mature, and use their been harvested unripe and then ‘parched’ soybean roaster to parch the grain. or dried over a fire. (The process is similar to making freekeh – durum wheat “We’re making 10-15 tons,” Martens says, harvested green and sun-dried, popular “Quaint is not something we have time in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and for.” North African cuisines.) It’s produced mainly in Germany, commonly eaten in The green spelt gets roasted immediately. soups or milled and cooked into a thick “If we don’t roast the spelt within an hour porridge. “The flavor is kind of grassy,” of harvest, it will start to rot,” Martens Bay says, “more floral.” says. After they char the hull, they let it steep, hot and smoky so the flavor The spelt parching technique originated permeates the green grain. Then it gets in southern Germany, where Bay’s father dried, dehulled and sent in bags to local was raised. In the late 19th and early 20th distributors -- Regional Access and centuries, Altheim, a small town in Green Market Grains. (They label the Baden-Württemberg, produced the most product as freekeh, a more widely grünkern in the country. recognized term.) If you visit Altheim, the ‘Metropolis of Lakeview Organic Grain’s grünkern will Grünkern’ today, you can tour the mini be available late this summer. As soon as barn-like structures built into the Chef Val gets his hands on a bag, he’ll hillside on the outskirts of town. The make the dish he learned from his freshly harvested green spelt was dried grandmother: a comforting casserole of in these ‘darrens’ until the 1960s, when grünkern porridge atop sliced tomatoes, the process was industrialized. baked with a layer of emmental cheese Workers spread the grain on perforated on top. Growing up, his family enjoyed Grünkern baffle plates and roasted it for several the casserole as a main course with a Katherine Rapin hours over a fire built into a cavity in salad on the side. The first time Bay the floor of the building. They con- found the dish on a restaurant menu, it stantly turned the grain with shovels to was served in a ramekin as a side with a prevent burning. steak. It’s delicious either way, especially When I called up Valentin Bay, head with a crisp Pilsner or an off-dry Riesling. Mary-Howell Martens, who runs chef at Brauhaus Schmitz, to ask about Lakeview Organic Grain with her Chef Val and I made his grandmother’s husband, Klass, and their son, Peter, in dish with grünkern he imported from grünkern, I got deep nostalgia – he upstate New York, describes this Germany. If you can’t hold out for old-world process as quaint. Every other Lakeview Organic’s, you can use freekeh hadn’t cooked the grain in 16 years. season at the farm, they harvest the spelt (available at Middle Eastern markets). in the milk stage, about three weeks 7 FOOD WAYS TIPS & RECIPES VALENTIN BAY Preparing grünkern porridge is similar to making risotto or polenta, but since the grain is harvested green and Spelt ground fine, it will cook much faster . Makes 4-6 servings Training You’ll Need: Wheels 370 g Grünkern (or freekeh) Salt and pepper to taste Alex Bois 1 Small shallot, sliced 2 Medium tomatoes 2 Cloves garlic, sliced 100 g Emmental (or another Alpine 1 Bay leaf cheese like gruyere), grated 60 g Butter, divided I feel like I owe Spelt a serious debt. revelation with emmer, which must be 1 Liter vegetable stock, warm When I was learning to bake, struggling milled slowly and with millstones to produce edible results with whatever cranked down as hard as they can be local flours I could find, spelt was always without grinding together, yielding a Mill (or grind in a vitamix) gruenkern to constantly until the liquid is absorbed, there to console me and foster my buttery flour with barely evident flecks of the coarseness of semolina. If using a two to three minutes. Repeat twice with shattered confidence. Where my whole bran. Alter this process and you get a vitamix, you may have to sift and then remaining broth. Remove sachet. The wheat experiments were turning out coarse, sandy flour, practically unusable throw the coarsest bits back in the porridge should be thick, the grünkern dense, gummy and unpleasantly granular, for bread or pastry. Other hard wheats, grinder. Bundle the shallot, garlic and bay soft with a slight chew.
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