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Proceedings of the First International Workshop on Hulled Wheats, 21-22 July 1995, Castelvecchio Pascoli, Tuscany, Italy

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Proceedings of the First International Workshop on Hulled Wheats, 21-22 July 1995, Castelvecchio Pascoli, Tuscany, Italy Proceedings of the First International Workshop on Hulled Wheats 21-22 July 1995 Castelvecchio Pascoli, Tuscany, Italy S. Padulosi, K. Hammer and J. Heller, editors ii HULLED WHEATS The International Plant Genetic Resources Institute (IPGRI) is an autonomous international scientific organization operating under the aegis of the Consultative Group on International Agricultural Research (CGIAR). The international status of IPGRI is conferred under an Establishment Agreement which, by December 1995, had been signed by the Governments of Australia, Belgium, Benin, Bolivia, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, China, Chile, Congo, Costa Rica, Côte d’Ivoire, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Ecuador, Egypt, Greece, Guinea, Hungary, India, Iran, Israel, Italy, Jordan, Kenya, Mauritania, Morocco, Pakistan, Panama, Peru, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Senegal, Slovak Republic, Sudan, Switzerland, Syria, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine and Uganda. IPGRI's mandate is to advance the conservation and use of plant genetic resources for the benefit of present and future generations. IPGRI works in partnership with other organizations, undertaking research, training and the provision of scientific and technical advice and information, and has a particularly strong programme link with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Financial support for the agreed research agenda of IPGRI is provided by the Governments of Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, China, Denmark, France, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, the Republic of Korea, Mexico, the Netherlands, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK and the USA, and by the Asian Development Bank, IDRC, UNDP and the World Bank. The Institute of Plant Genetics and Crop Plant Research (IPK) is operated as an independent foundation under public law. The foundation statute assigns to IPK the task of conducting basic research in the area of plant genetics and research on cultivated plants. The geographical designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of IPGRI, the CGIAR, or IPK concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Similarly, the views expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of these participating organizations. Citation: Padulosi, S., K. Hammer and J. Heller, editors. 1996. Hulled wheats. Promoting the conservation and use of underutilized and neglected crops. 4. Proceedings of the First International Workshop on Hulled Wheats, 21-22 July 1995, Castelvecchio Pascoli, Tuscany, Italy. International Plant Genetic Resources Institute, Rome, Italy. Cover: Triptolemus and Persephone, from a 5th century BC pot by Ieron of Athens. ISBN 92-9043-288-8 IPGRI IPK Via delle Sette Chiese 142 Corrensstraße 3 00145 Rome 06466 Gatersleben Italy Germany © International Plant Genetic Resources Institute 1996 CONTENTS iii Contents Preface v Acknowledgements vii I. Taxonomy, Evolution, Distribution and Origin 1 Notes on the taxonomy of farro: Triticum monococcum, T. dicoccon and T. spelta A.T. Szabó and K. Hammer 2 From staple crop to extinction? The archaeology and history of the hulled wheats M. Nesbitt and D. Samuel 41 Ecogeographical distribution of hulled wheat species P. Perrino, G. Laghetti, L.F. D’Antuono, M. Al Ajlouni, M. Kanbertay, A.T. Szabó and K. Hammer 102 II. Genetic Diversity, Collecting, Conservation and Documentation 121 Ex situ conservation of hulled wheats A.A. Jaradat, M. Kanbertay, L. Peña-Chocarro, K. Hammer, N. Stavropoulos and P. Perrino 122 In situ conservation of hulled wheat species: the case of Spain L. Peña-Chocarro 130 The role of farmers’ associations in safeguarding endangered populations of farro in Italy C. Vazzana 149 III. Local and Traditional Uses 155 The ‘farre de Montelione’: landrace and representation C. Papa 156 Agronomic practices and socioeconomic aspects of emmer and einkorn cultivation in Turkey A. Karagöz 174 Recipes made with hulled wheats 180 IV. Germplasm Characterization, Evaluation, Enhancement and Utilization 184 Integrated approach to einkorn wheat breeding R. Castagna, B. Borghi, M. Heun and F. Salamini 185 Molecular characterization of einkorn wheat J. G. Waines 195 iv HULLED WHEATS Pre-breeding work on einkorn – Cooperation between genebank and breeders K. Hammer, M. Neumann and H.U. Kison 200 Technological and nutritional aspects in emmer and spelt R. Cubadda and E. Marconi 205 The quality of Triticum monococcum L., in perspective V. Vallega 214 The hulled wheats industry: present developments and impact on genetic resources conservation L.F. D'Antuono and R. Bravi 223 Checklist for recording the cultivation and uses of hulled wheats M. Nesbitt, G. Hillman, L. Peña-Chocarro, D. Samuel and A.T. Szabó 236 V. International Cooperation 248 VI. List of Participants 258 PREFACE v 4VIJEGI Hulled wheat species (einkorn, emmer and spelt) are among the most ancient cereal crops of the Mediterranean region. Here and in the neighbouring Near East, wild ancestors of very unattractive appearance (brittle rachis, small seeds, etc.) were domesticated by farmers who in their simple breeding approaches produced plants possessing more useful agrobotanic traits. These cereals were popular within the region for hundreds of years, and long represented a staple food. At a certain point in history, however, the introduction of higher-yielding, free-threshing wheats caused hulled wheats to fall into a state of neglect, to such an extent that they have become a relic crop (as in the case of einkorn). For social, cultural or simply economic reasons, hulled wheats are becoming popular once again. Today, they are no longer seen as the ‘food of the poor’ as they were in the past. On the contrary, they have become an exclusive and fashionable food for which discerning consumers are prepared to pay a higher price than for any other wheat product. In Italy, in particular, the cultivation of these crops which are referred to by the collective name of ‘farro’, has received increasing interest from farmers, and the area that is now being planted with hulled wheats is expanding rapidly. The ‘underutilized’ aspect of hulled wheats is being recognized, and this acts as a further incentive for farmers to grow them. The history of hulled wheats is particularly instructive in understanding the importance of conserving plant genetic resources. There are fashions in the utilization of a particular crop, and one which has been a popular common food in one period can become a neglected species in another. The history of plant genetic resources contains numerous examples of this phenomenon which are even more dire than that of hulled wheats. What we abandon today could be useful tomorrow, and there exists a moral obligation to future generations to preserve the wealth of genetic diversity that has been bequested to us. It is vital that we understand this and ensure that the diversity of our crops is always properly safeguarded, despite the reduced attention a particular crop may receive at a particular time. The knowledge and cultural traditions that are interlinked with our rich agrobotanic legacy should also be a subject of concern. Awareness is needed of another important aspect of the exploitation of underutilized species: a widespread increase in the cultivation of crops that presently occupy specific market niches, such as hulled wheats, is likely to lead to a market surplus of the product. This may in turn cause a drop in prices, which could have a negative impact on the cultivation of these species, as it will put many farmers out of business. And it is the small farmers, who have been maintaining landraces of hulled wheats in their fields, that are most likely to be affected. The resulting loss of diversity imaginable in such a scenario will clearly be to our detriment. The increase in popularity of the once-neglected species and of the minor crops in general is relevant to another issue, namely the need for the registration of material in commercial seed catalogues. This is a very sensitive issue for conservationists, as the successful promotion of underutilized species inevitably leads to the registration of those improved varieties bred for increasing yields, and produces higher-quality crops. In a sad paradox of modern agriculture, however, the spread of these improved varieties also leads to the replacement of landraces, and thus to a loss of the very diversity which has been safeguarded by farmers over generations and used to breed the improved types. vi HULLED WHEATS What should we be doing to safeguard hulled wheat species such as einkorn (which has almost disappeared from Italy), or to ensure that landraces will still be grown, in spite of the possible spread of new improved types? What is the distribution of these species in the world, and what is the actual situation regarding their use and commercialization? What role could national and international communities be playing to secure the remaining diversity of these species whilst promoting their sustainable use? These and other issues were addressed in the papers given at the first International Workshop on hulled wheats that took place on 21 July 1995 in Castelvecchio Pascoli, in the region of Tuscany, Italy. The meeting was attended by participants from 12 countries (France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Jordan, Spain, Switzerland, Syria, Turkey, UK and the USA) involved in hulled wheat research in various disciplines such as archeobotany, breeding, plant germplasm collecting, genebank management, taxonomy and ethnology. The workshop’s audience included extension workers, farmers’ associations, cooperatives and users. Relevant points raised at the workshop were followed up at the first meeting of the Hulled Wheat Genetic Resources Network which took place on the following day. The meeting drew particular attention to the need to establish collaborative efforts in the area of conservation and better utilization of hulled wheat species. The role that the newly established Network will play in achieving these objectives will be an extremely important one.
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